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Candle Box

Small boxes of all types were once a common feature in country households. They were used to hold all manner of things, from salt and spices to knives, spoons, and, of course, candles, or whatever else needed to be put away safely where it could readily be found. The earliest examples were wall boxes. These were made to hang from either a peg or nail on the wall or designed to sit up against a wall, supported on a table or ledge. In their simplest form, these boxes were lidless. However, others did have lids and, as the design developed, further elaboration in the form of the inclusion of drawers took place; in some instances, the formerly simple box became a miniature set of drawers.

Collectors have given names to boxes according to their main use, and in addition to the uses mentioned, there are, among others, bobbin boxes (for storing lacemaking bobbins), dice and domino boxes, and pipe and tobacco boxes.

Some boxes had no specific use but were merely for keeping safe important documents, letters, personal treasures, or valuable books. These were known as “keeping” boxes. Quite often, they were intricately decorated with paintings or carvings to attest to the value that was placed on them and their contents.

While it may be difficult for us today, with our built-in cupboards, to appreciate just how invaluable these boxes were in the past, they still can serve a useful purpose over and above a decorative one. A candle box makes an ideal letter rack or place to keep the household bills, while other boxes can be modified to suit all types of modern application.

ABILITY LEVEL

Novice/Intermediate

SIZE

18 x 9 x 6 .5 in. (457 x 228 x 165 mm)

MATERIALS

Pine, Cherry, Oak

CUTTING LIST

1 back

18 x 8 x .5 in. (457 x 203 x 12 mm)

1 front

8 x 8 x .5 in. (203 x 203 x 12 mm)

2 sides

10 x 5 x .5 in. (254 x 127 x 12 mm)

1 bottom

9 x 6.5 x .5 in. (228 x 165 x12 mm)

1: Mark out and cut the separate pieces to size. They can be cut economically from two pieces of wood, as shown. Mark each piece for its intended use.

2: Enlarge and trace the template patterns to the appropriate pieces of wood.

3: Cut the pieces to shape.

4: For the internal heart shape, first drill through the wood and then enlarge the hole with a fret saw or coping saw. Finish off with a file and sandpaper.

5: Clean off all tool marks on the sawed edges. Check that everything is cut to size and that the side pieces are a matching pair.

6: Assemble the back, front, and side pieces without using glue. Check the alignment of the matching edges of the shaped pieces. Make any necessary adjustments.

7: Mark out and cut a .25 in. (6 mm) chamfer on the front and side top edges of the bottom piece of wood.

8: Clean up all the component pieces ready for assembly.

9: Glue and nail all the box components together. Use small panel pins or finishing nails and take care not to split the wood when nailing, especially if you have used a hardwood to make the box ((see Tools & Techniques chapter for advice on nailing).

10: Begin by fixing the back to the sides, then add the front. Check that everything is square before fixing the bottom in place. Remove any surplus glue and leave to dry thoroughly.

11: Punch the nail heads below the surface and fill the indentations with woodfiller or with a mixture of glue and sawdust.

12: Apply a suitable indoor finish. A traditional beeswax polish will give a warm glow to the wood, especially after a number of applications; varnish will give a tougher, more protective finish. If you want to give your box a well-aged appearance, try one of the special techniques such as distressing the wood, applying an “antique” wood stain, or painting the box and then distressing the paintwork (see Finishing chapter for details).

13: The box can be hung on a wall using two nails, hooks, or small pegs through the heart-shaped cut-out, or you can use a standard mirror plate that screws onto the back of the box. The candle box can also be freestanding and be placed on a table or perhaps a window ledge.