Читать книгу Walking in the Angus Glens - James Carron - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
A bird’s-eye view over the glacial bowl of Corrie Fee and Glen Doll (Walk 14)
The five main glens of Angus – Isla, Prosen, Clova, Lethnot and Esk – radiate from the fertile plains of Strathmore deep into the southern ranges of the Cairngorms National Park. Each has its own distinct character and together they offer walkers exceptional variety.
Glen Clova is the most popular. From the car park at the end of the public road, Glen Doll and the valley of the River South Esk offer access to a clutch of Munros. Many walkers make a beeline for the contours above 3000 feet, but there are lots of less well-trod paths awaiting quiet exploration, ancient stalkers’ paths and drove routes, like Jock’s Road, the Capel Mounth and Kilbo Path, providing ways through and over the hills.
Lurking below the high tops, U-shaped valleys with precipitous slopes soaring to airy ramparts of crags and cliffs and deep corrie lochans, such as Loch Brandy, offer physical evidence of the glacial power that carved out this landscape many millennia ago. The rocky amphitheatre of Corrie Fee, above Glen Doll, is one of the best examples of a moraine landscape in Scotland and is home to scarce alpine plants.
To the south of Clova, Glen Prosen is a sparsely populated valley, offering a less-frequented approach to the Munros of Driesh and Mayar while, setting out from the landmark Airlie Monument, the line of low hills separating Prosen from Clova is one of the area’s finest ridge walks.
Glen Isla is the most westerly of the Angus glens and is a land of contrasts. Following the River Isla upstream from the waterfalls at Reekie Linn, the terrain is initially relatively benign, gently undulating slopes carpeted in commercial forestry and rough pasture hiding artificial fishing lochs and reservoirs in fell-like folds. At its northern end the glen has a much wilder atmosphere as it tickles the craggy underbelly of Caenlochan Forest where hill tracks and stalkers’ paths rise to the summits of Glas Maol and Creag Leacach.
Shorter glens radiate out from Isla’s main spine: Glen Damff and Glen Finlet link with Prosen, while remote Canness Glen and Caenlochan Glen probe deep into the mountains.
Heading northeast, back over Prosen and Clova, Glen Lethnot is the least visited of the Angus glens. Wild and lonely, the valley offers a tempting choice of tracks and paths on to lower hills.
Water of Mark flowing through Glen Mark; conservation work has been undertaken here to encourage spawning salmon (Walk 25)
Completing the set, Glen Esk lies on the southern edge of the Grampian Mountains. It is a long, snaking valley, 15 miles of twisting tarmac ending just short of Invermark Lodge, a classic mid-Victorian shooting lodge overlooking Loch Lee. Sloping up from the road, an army of hills forms a frontier between Angus and Aberdeenshire. All worthy of ascent, they steadily gain in height until Mount Keen, the most easterly of Scotland’s Munros, is reached. Below the tops, a network of ancient byways is now the preserve of walkers and backpackers.
As diverse as they are, with their own unique characteristics, the Angus glens combine to offer the walker a rich blend of landscape, geology and natural habitat, encompassing high mountain peaks and lower hills, glacial valleys, corries and moraine, natural and managed forestry, lochs and man-made reservoirs, cascading upland burns and gently meandering rivers. Not only is the scenery exceptionally varied and the views nothing short of awe-inspiring, but there is also a great profusion of plants, birds and wildlife.
While they may feel rugged and remote, all five glens are remarkably accessible and, thanks to the A90, are within easy reach of Dundee. Despite this, they remain a relatively peaceful and crowd-free escape for walkers. The routes offer a selection of moderate to challenging hill and mountain walks suitable for capable hillwalkers.
Landscape
The Angus glens are a product of the Ice Age, glaciers the architects of both upland and lowland terrain. In their wake, these snaking rivers of ice left behind well-sculpted peaks, deep U-shaped valleys and cavernous armchair-like corries.
While the upper reaches of the glens – cloaked in crags and cliffs – remain hostile and rugged, the gathering of sediment over thousands of years created fertile plains lower down the valleys. These were settled by early farmers. While Neolithic sites and several Iron Age earth houses have been found, most of the archaeological remains uncovered date from medieval or later times. Early evidence of farming includes turf dykes and the ruins of shielings (small stone-built cottages located on higher pasture). Rig and furrow, a traditional system of cultivating land practised until the mid-19th century, is evident across the area.
In the 1850s, in common with much of the Scottish Highlands, families were cleared from the land to make way for large sheep farms and the population fell sharply. The glens continue to support agriculture and communities, albeit on a much smaller scale than once was the case.
Between this flat land and the mountain peaks and plateaus above, the moors may at first glance appear wild and untamed but this belies the heavy influence of man. Vast areas of land are managed for sport – grouse and pheasant shooting, deer stalking and fishing the main activities. Alongside farming this is the mainstay of the local economy. Heather burning, vermin control, the construction of hill tracks and the retention of remote cottages and lodges are just a few of the ways these sporting activities impact on the lie of the land.
Where ground has been deemed unviable for either farming or sport, commercial forestry has taken root. Glen Clova (including Glen Doll), Glen Isla and Glen Prosen all have extensive plantations while, over recent years, concerted efforts have been made to restore native woodlands.
Wildlife
The Angus glens are home to an array of wildlife. However, some species are much more likely to be spotted by walkers than others. In the hills and valleys, red and roe deer are common. While reds tend to roam the hills and glens in sizeable herds, roes are more solitary creatures, often spotted on the fringes of woodland or lurking in undergrowth. Occasionally they will stray onto open ground or flit over roads.
On the high ground mountain hare are a frequent sight while rabbits are endemic, often sharing rough pasture with sheep, cattle and opportunistic carrion crows. Rabbits offer rich pickings for stoats and foxes. Unlike rabbit and brown hare, mountain hare are indigenous to Scotland.
Sheep – one of the main sources of income for Angus farmers – are found on low and high ground while cattle – including the distinctive shaggy Highland cow – tend to occupy fields down in the valleys.
An iconic Highland cow resting by Buckhood Cottage, Glen Prosen
Forests offer a safe haven for the increasingly threatened red squirrel. Thanks to its relative isolation, Glen Doll has a stable population of around 100 and colonies also exist in the other glens where grey squirrels – the biggest threat to the reds – have yet to gain a foothold.
The woodlands of Glen Doll in particular are home to the pine marten which, although rare, has benefited in recent years from measures to conserve its habitat. A cat-sized member of the weasel family, the pine marten thrives in rocky woodland terrain and is most often sighted at dawn or dusk. It is, however, very wary of humans and will disappear in an instant.
The field vole, wood mouse and hedgehog are among smaller mammals that may be seen on lower ground while otter, bank vole and water vole live around rivers, streams and lochs. Healthy populations of otter have been recorded along the length of the River South Esk. Water vole numbers, however, are less stable. Once plentiful, this native species has been decimated by invading American mink, first imported into Britain in the 1920s and farmed for fur. However, conservation work, particularly in Corrie Fee, has seen some recovery in water vole numbers while mink trapping – designed to protect ground-nesting birds and their eggs – is an integral part of land management.
The most elusive creature in the Angus glens is the Scottish wildcat. Using concealed camera traps, the Cairngorms Wildcat Project has confirmed sightings in Glen Clova while reports suggest small populations in the other Angus glens.
The only venomous snake walkers may encounter is the adder. Relatively common on heather moor and around the fringes of woodland, they are most frequently spotted in hot weather sunning themselves on rocks or lying across paths. The adder has a distinctive dark zigzag running down the length of the spine and an inverted ‘V’ shape on the neck. Males are generally white or pale grey with a black zigzag while females are a pale brown colour, with a darker brown zigzag. Adders are not aggressive, but if bitten by one seek medical assistance as soon as possible.
Atlantic salmon and sea trout migrate up the rivers of Angus. The River North Esk and River South Esk are both popular with anglers, while inland lochs and reservoirs are renowned for their brown trout.
Birds
Red grouse are bred for sport throughout the glens and will pop up out of the heather when least expected while another game bird, the pheasant, is most likely to be spotted in fields, woodland, or dodging traffic on the roads. On rocky summits and slopes, ptarmigan are more elusive. In winter they are completely white, while in summer only the wings remain white. The best time to spot them is early spring, before their winter plumage is lost.
Golden eagle, peregrine falcon and raven all breed on crags and may be seen soaring above cliffs and rocky slopes. Corrie Fee, Glen Doll and the valley of the River South Esk below Bachnagairn are particularly good spots for sightings. The buzzard is the most prevalent bird of prey in the glens and may be seen flying over both low and high ground.
At the other end of the spectrum, the white-tailed eagle (also known as the sea eagle) is an occasional visitor thanks to an ongoing reintroduction project at Tentsmuir Forest, Fife, 40km to the south. The osprey, which returns annually to nesting sites in the neighbouring county of Perthshire, has been recorded fishing lochs and reservoirs in Angus.
Coniferous plantations are home to the great spotted woodpecker (more frequently heard rather than seen), plus the common crossbill and the smallest of all European birds, the goldcrest. Woodlands are also good places to spot the willow warbler, cuckoo, jay, jackdaw, siskin, chaffinch and various tits, including the coal tit, great tit and blue tit.
On rough pasture and heathland oystercatcher and curlew are common, while Angus is a breeding stronghold for the ring ouzel, similar in size to a blackbird but with a distinctive white chest ring and longer wings and tail.
Plants and flowers
Scots pine trees in Glen Lee (Walk 26)
While the ancient glens were once heavily wooded, the hand of man has seen intervention both detrimental and beneficial to the natural landscape over the centuries. Our Neolithic ancestors cut much of the original timber down, creating arable fields and grassy pasture in lowland areas while much of the higher ground ended up as open moor. Trees returned in the form of sizeable commercial plantations while in more recent times there has been a concerted effort to both plant and encourage the natural regeneration of native species such as rowan, beech, birch and ash, a step towards redressing the balance. Airy woodlands of Scots pine and larch provide a welcome breather from more densely packed forests of spruce and lodgepole pine.
Large tracts of moor are managed for shooting, resulting in a patchwork of heather and grass. Grazing by sheep, cattle and deer restrict plant diversity here. Tussocks of hare’s-tail cotton grass grow in all but the wettest areas, while cross-leaved heath and crowberry are widespread. Gorse and broom add a splash of yellow during the summer while bracken provides valuable cover for birds and small animals. Rocks and boulders support various lichens, and the iconic Scottish thistle is a common sight.
A foxglove adds colour to Glendoll Forest (Walk 14)
Purple and white foxgloves grow in the valleys, bluebells and yellow primroses carpet many of the native woodlands and meadows of wild flowers are to be found on less intensely grazed slopes.
Slender yet resilient harebells survive the harshest conditions in Corrie Fee (Walk 14)
The region’s rarest plants are to be found on high ground where some of the most ancient species survive in the testing environment. Corrie Fee, above Glen Doll, is noted for its purple coltsfoot and yellow oxytropis and is also home to more common mountain plants: purple saxifrage, yellow mountain saxifrage, roseroot and globeflower. Neighbouring Corrie Shalloch has the largest area of mountain willow scrub in Britain.
Above the corries, on the vast windswept Caenlochan plateau, a remarkably diverse range of habitats exists, incorporating dwarf-shrub and heath, mire, grassland and an array of alpine grasses, lichens and flowers. The area is regarded as one of the best upland botanical sites in the country.
Weather
The Angus glens offer year-round walking, although the best conditions are usually to be found between May and September when the weather is generally drier and temperatures are, on the whole, higher. Although rainfall is typically lower than in the west of Scotland, prolonged wet spells and fleeting heavy showers, even on sunny days, are becoming an increasingly common part of the summer weather pattern.
Despite the relatively compact geographical nature of the Angus glens, the weather can vary across the area and it is often possible to find good conditions in one glen when the weather is less favourable in others. As a result there is plenty of scope for choosing routes that take advantage of this local variation.
It is worth paying particular attention to cloud base. While the higher ground may be shrouded in heavy cloud or blanketed in mist, lower hills may dip below the ceiling, offering alternative days out. Always be prepared for descending cloud or mist and be equipped to navigate in bad visibility, particularly across featureless terrain where map, compass and the ability to use them come into their own.
Prolonged spells of wet weather do have an impact on hill paths and tracks, particularly those crossing peaty or marshy ground, making the terrain more difficult to negotiate.
Over the mountains, snow can fall at any time of the year. In reality, however, snow can usually be expected between November and March, although it can linger in the high corries well into the spring. During the winter, blizzards are common across exposed high plateaux and mountain peaks. While avalanche risk is low, heavy snow can render high-level routes impassable. Walks 1, 12–16, 25 and, 27–30 are those most likely to be affected by adverse weather conditions.
Depending on the severity of conditions, heavy and drifting snowfall can block access roads while icy conditions can make driving conditions in the glens hazardous.
Heritage paths and history
The Angus glens are criss-crossed by a network of old rights of way, long-established tracks and paths that run through the valleys and over the hills. Once vital links used by drovers, shepherds, traders and even smugglers, most fell by the wayside, superseded by modern highways. Now they are the preserve of walkers, backpackers and mountain bikers.
One of the most famous is the Tolmounth (Walk 30), a high-level route linking Glen Clova with Braemar. Better known as Jock’s Road, it played a key role in Scottish rights of way history. In 1887 a group of shepherds who regularly used the road joined forces with the Scottish Rights of Way Society to challenge a landowner who was intent on denying them access. After a lengthy legal battle that ended in the House of Lords in 1888, the old road was established as a right of way, setting a precedent that has protected public access to scores of other routes in the Scottish hills.
Negotiating high, exposed and largely featureless terrain, the Tolmounth is a challenging journey, particularly during the winter when the high ground is frequently swept by storms or blanketed in snow. It is among a number of old routes known as the Mounth Roads, so called because the range of hills between Angus and Deeside was historically known as the Mounth. Two – the Cairnwell and Cairn o’Mount – were incorporated into the road network while others, like the Capel Mounth (Walk 27), Mounth (Walk 28) and Firmounth (Walk 29) gradually fell out of use but remain an integral part of the landscape.
The Mounth Roads and a network of stalkers’ paths and hill tracks are a great resource for walkers, providing access to the high ground or offering satisfying day or multi-day hikes in their own right.
A carved Cateran Trail waymarker depicts the weathered features of a cattle rustler (Walk 2)
The only official long-distance path to meander into Angus is the Cateran Trail, a 103km (64-mile) circular route that, for the majority of users, begins and ends in Blairgowrie, in the neighbouring county of Perthshire. Heading north through the Perthshire countryside to Spittal of Glenshee via Bridge of Cally, Kirkmichael and Enochdu, the route turns south, crossing into Angus below Mount Blair. Passing through the hamlet of Forter, the way continues south through Glen Isla, passing Auchintaple Loch and Loch Shandra en route to Kirkton of Glenisla. From there, it heads south to Bridge of Craigisla beyond which it leaves Angus.
The trail is named after marauding cattle rustlers known at Caterans, who terrorised farmers from the Middle Ages until the 17th century and made good use of old drove roads and hill tracks to flee with stolen livestock. A quirky feature of the route is the carved wooden waymarker posts that feature bearded Cateran faces.
Deciphering place names
While some of the earliest place names in Angus derive from Pictish words, many of the mountain and hill names commonly in use today have Gaelic or Scots roots. One Pictish term ‘monadh’, meaning ‘mountain range’, was adopted by the Gaels to describe an upland moor or hill and the word is present in other forms, including ‘mounth’ and the Anglicised ‘mount’. Mount Keen comes from the Gaelic name ‘Monadh Caoin’, meaning ‘gentle hill’ while Mount Blair translates as ‘hill of the plain’ and Tolmount as ‘hill of the valley’. The Firmounth, Am Monadh Giuthais in Gaelic, means ‘the moor of pine’.
The Gaelic word ‘creag’ (‘craig’ in Scots), describes a crag or mountain, and makes frequent appearances on the county’s maps. Creag Leacach, for example, is the ‘slabby crag’, an apt description given its rock-strewn slopes. The word ‘carn’ (‘cairn’ in Scots) indicates a cairn-shaped hill or mountain and inspired names such as Cairn Bannoch, ‘the peaked hill’. Other hills in the county with Gaelic names include Tom Buidhe (yellow hill), Glas Maol (grey or pale hill) and Mayar, thought to derive from ‘magh ard’, meaning ‘high plain’.
Another word walkers will often encounter is ‘corrie’. It comes from the Gaelic term ‘coire’ and is used to describe a rounded hollow in a hillside. Corrie Fee, for example, means ‘corrie of the deer’.
As Gaelic gradually gave way to Scots in the glens, new words appeared, such as ‘shank’, meaning a long ridge (rising from Glen Lee, the Shank of Inchgrundle is a fine example), and ‘burn’, a term used frequently in Scotland to describe a stream.
Hill tables
A number of the mountains and hills in this guide are classified as Munros, Corbetts or Grahams.
Munros are separate Scottish mountains over 3000ft (914.4m) in height. The original list was drawn up by Sir Hugh Munro and published in 1891. It is subject to occasional revision, and currently (SMC, 2012) stands at 282.
Corbetts are Scottish peaks over 2500ft (762m) in height but under 3000ft (914.4m) with a reascent of 500ft (152.4m) on all sides (220 peaks are listed at present). Mr J Rooke Corbett compiled the original list in the 1920s.
Grahams are a more recent offering, a complete list of Scottish hills between 2000ft (610m) and 2499ft (761m) in height with a drop of at least 150m (492ft) on all sides. The table was compiled by Alan Dawson and Fiona Torbet (née Graham), and includes 224 hills.
The summits covered in this guide include 9 Munros, 3 Corbetts and 7 Grahams.
Planning and preparation
Crossing open ground en route to the distinctive cone of Broad Cairn (Walk 12)
Walking in Scotland is generally a safe activity, although – as with all outdoor pursuits – there is a level of inherent risk. Good preparation and planning play a key role in minimising the chances of getting into difficulties.
Before setting out consider whether fitness levels, experience, available equipment and hill skills of every member of the party meet the demands of the walk. Avoid taking unnecessary risks by tackling an overly long or difficult route. Do not hesitate to cut a walk short if someone tires or if the terrain becomes too difficult. It is better to retreat with all limbs intact rather than push on and risk accident, injury or illness.
It is a good idea to leave word of the intended walk with a responsible friend, relative or neighbour before setting off from home. If on holiday, details may be left with a hostel warden, B&B owner or hotel manager. It is important that contact is made with the person upon return to let them know you are back safely. If you fail to return at a predetermined time the relevant authorities can be alerted and, if necessary, a search or rescue mounted.
A route card – recording name and contact details, a note of everyone in the party, parking location, vehicle registration number, mobile phone number, start date, time and grid reference, intended route and end date, time and grid reference – is an efficient way of leaving details. In Glen Doll, the ranger service provides route cards that can be completed and left at the ranger centre adjacent to the main public car park. Don’t forget to collect your route card when you return so as to prevent an unnecessary rescue callout.
Glendoll Forest and a cloudy Driesh from the Capel Mounth (Walk 27)
Always check the weather forecast before setting out. Television channels, radio stations and newspapers all offer outlooks, while more detailed local forecasts can be found online or at tourist information centres and outdoor and countryside centres. Tailor activities to the weather and be prepared to cut a walk short if conditions deteriorate. The Scottish weather is remarkably unpredictable and it is not uncommon to experience a wide variety of conditions in a single day. However well equipped and prepared a walker is, persistent rain and relentless wind can quickly deplete reserves of energy and erode morale.
While bad weather can spoil a good walk, hot and sunny conditions can be equally unsettling. More liquid must be carried and consumed, while sunburn and heat stroke present very real dangers to the unwary.
Essential equipment
Clothing
Proper footwear is vital, and due to the varied nature of the terrain hillwalking boots are recommended. A good pair of waterproof boots with soles that offer a high level of grip will keep feet dry, warm and comfortable. Ensure new boots are broken in properly to remove stiffness and reduce the risk of blisters before embarking upon longer walks. Those planning to explore the higher peaks in winter should consider four-season or mountaineering boots
Boots should be coupled with good-quality walking socks; the best ones have extra padding around the toe and heel areas. Many walkers prefer to wear two pairs of socks – a thin pair next to the skin with a thicker pair on top – to prevent blisters. Make sure the thin pair does not have raised seams, and avoid socks that are too large or too small, heavily worn or full of holes.
Gaiters will come in handy where routes cross rough heather moor, grassland and reedy patches of ground.
Dressing successfully for the hills is best achieved through a layering system. Clothing can be easily added or removed depending on the weather, temperature or level of activity. A selection of thin layers traps more warm air than a single thick jersey or fleece.
The base layer (closest to the skin) can be a thin T-shirt, vest or thermal underwear top. Avoid natural fabrics like cotton – which trap and hold sweat – and go for a quick-drying synthetic fibre capable of transferring perspiration away from the skin. Fleeces are ideal mid-layers, as are sweatshirts and jumpers. The third and final outer layer, or shell, should be waterproof, windproof and, ideally, breathable. It is always a good idea to pack an extra layer or two, particularly when venturing on to higher ground where temperatures tend to be much lower, and can be reduced considerably by wind chill.
Trousers should be lightweight, loose fitting and preferably quick drying. Shorts are excellent for summer walking, but pack long trousers as a route may cross areas of brambles, nettles or thistles. Carry waterproof trousers too.
Take a warm hat and gloves throughout the year, and in summer pack a wide-brimmed hat to protect head and neck from the sun.
Food and drink
Taking sufficient food and liquid are essential. Hillwalking burns calories at a higher rate than normal activity and these must be replenished throughout the day. Prior to setting off, meals high in carbohydrates – such as rice and pasta – offer long-term slow-release energy. While on the hill, eating little and often is a good philosophy. Sandwiches and snack foods (for example sausage rolls and pork pies) are convenient and filling while dried fruit, seeds and nuts, and cereal bars, provide natural sugars and protein. High-sugar products (chocolate bars and sweets) offer rapid bursts of energy.
Fluid must also be replaced on a regular basis, and drinking little and often is a better way to avoid dehydration than waiting until thirsty before taking a drink. Carry plenty of liquid, particularly on hotter days when consumption will be significantly higher. As an estimate 1.5 litres should be sufficient for a day walk.
Supplementing supplies by collecting water in the hills is a matter of personal choice. While standing water and low-level streams and rivers – particularly those in agricultural areas – should be avoided, fast-flowing streams on high ground are less likely to be contaminated. There is, however, no guarantee that the water can be safely consumed unless treated with water purification tablets or a water purifier.
What to take
To carry the gear necessary for a day in the hills, a rucksack with a 30-litre capacity should suffice. Items that need to stay dry, such as spare clothing, mobile phone and camera equipment, should be kept in a waterproof liner within the sack.
The following is a list of essential items that should be carried on any of the walks in this guidebook.
waterproof jacket
waterproof trousers
spare fleece
hat
gloves
food and liquid
map(s)
compass
whistle
torch
first aid kit
survival bag
mobile phone
pencil and paper.
In summer, add a sun hat and sun cream to the list. Pack insect repellent too. Midges are becoming increasingly prevalent in Angus between May and September and are most commonly encountered during periods of calm warm weather. Lowland moor, grassland and woodland are all potential hot spots for these airborne irritants. A midge forecast for Scotland can be found online (www.midgeforecast.co.uk).
First aid
Walkers should have a basic knowledge of first aid and carry a small first aid kit, available from outdoor shops and pharmacies, including the following items:
waterproof, breathable plasters of various sizes
sterile dressings
triangular bandage
eye pad
crêpe bandage
safety pins (to secure dressings)
pair of disposable latex gloves
antiseptic cream or wipes
small pair of scissors.Other useful items include:
personal medication
painkillers
antihistamine cream
pair of tweezers
cigarette lighter or matches
insect repellent.
The best way to learn the basics of first aid is to take a course: a GP surgery or pharmacy is a good first point of contact. There are many private providers, as well as larger organisations such as the St John Ambulance Association (www.sja.org.uk) and, in Scotland, the St Andrew’s Ambulance Association (www.firstaid.org.uk). A useful pocket guide First Aid and Wilderness Medicine by Drs Jim Duff and Peter Gormly is published by Cicerone.
Three other items of kit will come in useful in the event of an emergency. One of the most important is a survival bag, which will protect a casualty from wind, rain and cold. Keep one at the bottom of the rucksack at all times. Every walker should also carry a whistle and torch for attracting attention. Note that in the Angus glens mobile phone reception ranges from poor to non-existent over much of the low ground, although signal strength is much better on high ground and summits.
Water of Saughs and the brooding crags of Corrie Berran from Tamhilt (Walk 21)
Thankfully accidents in the countryside are rare, and the majority are relatively minor. Blisters, probably the most common affliction among hillwalkers, should be dressed to avoid further rubbing. Relieve sprains and twists by binding tightly with a crêpe bandage to enable the casualty to return, albeit slowly, to civilisation where the injury can be properly treated.
More testing (and thankfully infrequent) conditions such as hypothermia and heat exhaustion are best combatted through good preparation and early recognition. Wearing adequate warm clothing and avoiding long stops in cold weather will prevent hypothermia. Early signs include tiredness, listlessness and irritability. Heat exhaustion can be avoided by regularly taking on fluids. Early symptoms include tiredness, light-headedness and muscle cramps. Rest up in a shady place, drink plenty and, if possible, eat sweet and salty foods.
In the event of serious injury or illness the rescue services may need to be contacted, although making such a call is not a matter to be treated lightly.
The casualty must be made as comfortable as possible, and the injuries assessed. If he cannot be moved, expert help will have to be called. The rescue services will need as much information as possible so make a written note of the casualty’s name, age and the type of injuries; details on the cause of the accident and the time it occurred; the terrain and any potential hazards (prevailing weather conditions, avalanche, rock fall and so on). Record the grid reference and details of the availability of torches, mobile phones, group shelters and medical personnel at the scene.
If there is a mobile phone signal dial 999, ask for police, and explain the situation clearly and concisely. If there is no signal, try climbing to a higher point where one may be found. If this fails, send the most able person in the group for help. If this is not possible – or if you are the casualty and alone – signal for help with a whistle and/or torch.
The International Distress Signal consists of six blasts of the whistle (or flashes of the torch), followed by a minute’s silence, then another six blasts. This drill is repeated every minute. The response is three whistle blasts, followed by a minute’s silence, then another three blasts. Continue giving the signal at regular intervals until help arrives. Make the location of the casualty site as prominent as possible: use brightly coloured clothes and kit, light a fire and make as much noise as possible.
Await rescue and never give up hope. One of the most vital aspects of first aid in such a situation is to maintain individual and/or group morale.
Getting there and where to stay
A wealth of landscape and wildlife information can be found at Glen Doll Ranger Base (Walks 12–16, 27 and 28)
The Angus glens are all accessed by road from the south. For Isla, Prosen and Clova, Kirriemuir, six miles west of the county town of Forfar, is the main gateway. Leave the A90 at Kirriemuir Junction, just north of Forfar. Isla can also be approached from Alyth in Perthshire, to the south, or from Glen Shee, to the west. Lethnot and Esk are accessed from Brechin, also on the A90, via Edzell. The glens are all well signed from the A90.
While accommodation and other services are limited in the glens themselves, a good selection of places to stay and eat and a full range of services can be found in Forfar, Kirriemuir and Brechin. There are campsites in Forfar and Brechin and near Kirriemuir. The nearest city is Dundee, to the south.
Isla has one hotel, at Kirkton of Glenisla (www.glenisla-hotel.com). Accommodation can also be found to the north, outwith the glen, at Spittal of Glenshee where there are two hotels (www.spittalofglenshee.co.uk and www.dalmunzie.com) and a bunkhouse (www.gulabinoutdoors.co.uk). There is a guesthouse at Glenmarkie (www.glenmarkie.co.uk) and various self-catering lets in the glen. There are no shops or campsites in Isla. Public toilets are located at the Backwater Dam.
Prosen has a bunkhouse (www.prosenhostel.co.uk) in Glenprosen Village and there are various self-catering lets in the glen. There are no shops, campsites or public toilets in Prosen.
Glen Clova has a hotel and bunkhouse (www.clovahotel.com) in the hamlet of Clova. While older maps show a youth hostel and campsite near Acharn in Glen Doll, both have been closed for a number of years. There are three designated short-stay wild camping sites in Glen Doll – one on Jock’s Road (NO 252 766), one in a former quarry above Acharn (NO 280 764) and one by the River South Esk to the south of Moulzie (NO 285 768). Elsewhere in the glen, there is a scattering of self-catering cottages. There are no shops or formal campsites in Clova. Public toilets can be found in the car park at Milton of Clova and at Glen Doll Ranger Base.
Lethnot has no accommodation or services.
Esk has a formal campsite (www.gleneskcaravanpark.co.uk) at the southern end of the glen and an informal camping field at Tarfside with public toilets in the adjacent car park. There are a number of self-catering holiday cottages in the glen and refreshments can be found during the summer season at The Retreat, near Tarfside (www.glenesk.dreamhosters.com).
As there are no fuel stations in the glens, motorists should ensure tanks are filled in one of the main towns before setting off.
See Appendix B for more information to help you plan your trip.
Public transport
The Goal from Craigs of Lethnot on the elevated Airlie Ridge (Walk 8)
The main gateways to the glens – Forfar, Kirriemuir and Brechin – are well served by buses. Stagecoach Strathtay (www.stagecoachbus.com) operates local services and there are regular links to Dundee, while Scottish Citylink’s Dundee to Aberdeen coach service (www.citylink.co.uk) stops in Forfar.
By contrast, the glens themselves are not easily accessed by public transport (www.angus.gov.uk/transport). Careful planning is required along with an acceptance that a good number of the routes in this guidebook are currently outwith the scope of the bus network. What services there are tend to revolve around school runs – term-time only – and Demand Responsive Services where travellers request a timetabled journey in advance otherwise it will not operate.
With this in mind, it is possible to travel from Kirriemuir to Clova and Braedowie, in Glen Doll; from Kirriemuir to Dykehead, at the junction of Clova and Prosen; from Brechin to Invermark in Glen Esk; from Brechin to Tillybardine, in Glen Lethnot; and from Kirriemuir or Blairgowrie to Kirkton of Glenisla and on to Auchavan in Glen Isla.
Rail services (www.scotrail.co.uk) in Angus are confined to the coast and walkers arriving in the county by train are advised to alight in Dundee for the best selection of onward bus services or car rental opportunities. Dundee also has an airport (www.hial.co.uk/dundee-airport) with flights to and from London City.
See Appendix B for further information.
Access: Rights and responsibilities
A perfect pitch – wild camping by the Firmounth above Glen Esk (Walk 29)
Walkers in Scotland have long enjoyed the right to roam on just about any land, with no requirements to stay on defined paths or rights of way. This position was ratified with the implementation of the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 which gives everyone the right to be on most land provided they act responsibly. To help people enjoy Scotland’s outdoors responsibly, the Scottish Outdoor Access Code was drawn up as part of the bill. The main points of the code relevant to hillwalkers are summarised below.
Take responsibility for your own actions.
Respect people’s privacy and peace of mind.
Help land managers and others to work safely and effectively.
Care for your environment.
Keep your dog under proper control.
The freedom to roam does have some restrictions. In common with many rural parts of Scotland, Angus has a good many sporting estates where animals and birds such as red deer and grouse are shot, whether for sport or conservation. These estates derive a significant amount of their income from shooting and it is an important part of the rural economy.
Deer management takes place at various times of the year but the most sensitive period is the stag-stalking season which runs from 1 July to 20 October. The grouse-shooting season runs from 12 August to 10 December. Most of this activity takes place on open hillside and tends to be away from popular walking routes. That said, a number of routes in the guide do cross land where both deer stalking and grouse shooting take place.
During the shooting seasons it is recommended that walkers do their best to seek permission from the relevant landowner before setting off. Generally the estates in Angus try to be as accommodating as possible and will often give useful advice on areas to avoid or alternative routes. As part of the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, Scottish Natural Heritage operates an online service called Heading for the Scottish Hills (www.outdooraccess-scotland.com/hftsh) that provides deer-stalking information for various estates, including a number in Angus (see Appendix B for further contact details). Stalking and shooting do not generally take place on a Sunday.
During the shooting seasons, walkers can assist landowners by heeding the following points.
Follow reasonable advice given including Heading for the Scottish Hills messages, deer management group leaflets, notices at parking places or by estate staff encountered.
Take reasonable steps to find out where stalking and shooting is taking place and take account of advice on alternative routes.
Use paths where available.
Consult estates about plans if organising a large group walk.
Avoid wild camping in corries.
Keep voices to reasonable levels as sound carries in the hills.
Keep dogs on a short lead or under close control.
Avoid cutting down through corries, and if this is not possible follow the main watercourse through the corrie.
Follow mountain ridges where possible.
The following are also useful tips for responsible walking.
Minimise disturbance to livestock, especially during the lambing season (March–May). Dogs should be kept on a short lead at all times near sheep and cows. Never let a dog worry or attack sheep or cattle and be particularly careful when crossing ground where cows are accompanied by their calves. Cows are very protective of their young and there have been incidents when walkers with dogs have been seriously injured or killed by stampeding cattle, panicked by the sight of dogs. If this happens to you, it is better to let your dog off its lead as it will make its own escape without endangering you.
On open hillsides, moor and grassland, dogs should be kept on a short lead or under close control during the bird-nesting season (April–July). If a dog is prone to give chase, keep it under close control in areas where there may be wild animals like rabbits, hare and deer or birds such as pheasants and grouse.
Do not disturb wildlife or damage the environment by interfering with the habitats of birds and animals or picking plants or flowers.
Stick to paths and tracks where possible to avoid damaging ground vegetation and keep to the centre of the path to avoid further widening it or creating additional erosion. Avoid damaging walls and fences by climbing over them and wherever possible use stiles or gates. If a fence has to be crossed, do so at a post to avoid straining wires. Leave gates as you find them.
From time to time temporary access restrictions may be encountered. This could, for example, be a forest track closed due to tree felling, or a path shut because of bad erosion. Usually a diversion will be offered; if there is no diversion, consult the map and work out an alternative or curtail the route.
Glen Lethnot
Using this guide
The walks are divided into six sections, one for each of the main Angus glens and the sixth offering a selection of hill-path routes following established rights of way. While the majority of the walks are circular, the hill paths are linear routes offering scope for longer, multi-day treks.
The route descriptions all begin with an information box noting the start point for each walk, including a brief description and grid reference, plus advice on the availability of car parking. The distance, height gain and time required to complete the route is also listed. The time quoted is an estimate based on Naismith’s Rule and does not include rest or meal breaks.
Details of maps required to safely navigate the route are also given. The maps published in the guide are from the Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger series. It is strongly recommended that rather than relying solely on these map extracts walkers carry the relevant OS 1:50,000 Landranger or OS 1:25,000 Explorer sheet (the latter offers a much greater level of detail). Gaelic spellings used in the route descriptions all follow those used on the Ordnance Survey maps for ease of correlation.
A summary of the route follows, offering a brief overview of what can be expected in terms of terrain and the level of walking and navigational experience required. The guide assumes a basic level of hillwalking experience, the knowledge to read and understand maps and relate this information to the physical landscape and the ability to navigate competently using map and compass.
Pausing for a rest by the Tolmouth with superb views over Glen Doll (Walk 28)
The majority of the routes follow established tracks and paths while features such as fence lines, walls, streams and forestry assist with route-finding. However, on some routes, sections cross open ground where there are few easily identifiable physical landmarks and where paths are either indistinct or non-existent. It is in such circumstances that the ability to navigate is essential.
Glen Isla
