Читать книгу A Journey through Persia, Armenia, and Asia Minor, to Constantinople, in the Years 1808 and 1809 - James Justinian Morier - Страница 11

Rock at Shapour. Drawn by James Morier Esqr. Published by Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown, Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811.

Having examined these, we next crossed the river to the sculptures on the opposite rock. The first is a long tablet, containing a multitude of figures. The principal person, (who is certainly the King represented in the former tablet) is placed in the very centre of the piece, alone in a small compartment, and is seated with a sword placed betwixt his legs, on the pummel of which rests his left hand. It is a most ridiculous object, with a head swelled by a singular wig to an immense circumference. On his right, on the uppermost of two long slips, are many men who seem to be a mixture of Persians and Romans; the former are conducting the latter as prisoners. Under these in the lower slip are others, who by their wigs appear to be Persians: their leader bears a human head in both hands, and extends it towards the central figure. On the left are four small compartments; the first (nearest that figure, and the highest from the ground) incloses a crowd of men whose arms are placed over one another’s shoulders. Below these are five figures, one of whom leads a horse without any more furniture than a bridle. The two other compartments are filled up with eight figures each. We considered this to represent, in general, a king seated in his room of audience surrounded by his own people, and by nations tributary to him. The length is eleven yards four inches.

On the left of this were two colossal figures on horseback, carved in an alto relievo. The one to the right had all the dress, character and features of the King above described; the other, on the left, appeared also a royal personage, but differing in dress, and in the furniture of his horse. Both had their hands extended, and held a ring, which we conceived to be emblematical of peace. The Envoy, who had seen both these remains and Nakshi Rustam, prepared me to expect a similar sculpture at the latter: and as I had not leisure to detail all the subjects of Shapour, I preferred to delineate those, of which no other specimen might exist, and therefore proceeded in our general examination. I must not however omit to say, that the sculpture of these two figures was exquisite; the proportions and anatomy of both horses and men were accurately preserved, so that the very veins and arteries in the horses’ legs and belly were most delicately delineated.

Walking forwards we came to a very extensive piece of sculpture, the lower parts of which were entirely destroyed. We saw, however, on the right, a row of camels’ and men’s heads intermixed; and under them a row of horses’ and men’s heads, which were demolished from the horse’s eye downwards. In front of these, at the distance of about four feet, was part of a figure on a horse, the King as before, holding a bow and four arrows in his right hand. We supposed that this might be the commencement of a hunting piece. [Plate XI.]

Our research terminated in a most perfect sculpture: the extreme interest of which only increased our regret, that the shortness of our time would not allow us to give it all the observation and study which it required. This piece contained a greater number of objects than any of the others, and a much greater diversity of characters. The surface of the rock is here divided into a variety of unequal compartments, all of which are occupied by a multitude of figures. In the middle, is a rather reduced copy of the second relievo which I have described (that of the King and the suppliant) except that, facing the King there is an additional personage with a hand extended holding a ring. In the first row, at the top on the right, are a number of slight figures with their arms folded. The second is filled with a crowd, of which some carry baskets. The third is equally covered; and in the right corner there is a man conducting a lion by a chain. In the fourth, and just opposite to the King, is a very remarkable groupe, whose loose and folded dresses denote Indians: one leads a horse, whose furniture I have drawn with some care, and behind the horse is an elephant. Under this, and close to the ground, are men in a Roman costume; amongst them is a chariot to which two horses are harnessed; this also I have exactly delineated.31 In five compartments on the left (corresponding with those on the right) are placed thick squadrons of Persian cavalry, all in a regular and military order, marshalled as it were in echelon. Fourteen yards was the length of the whole sculpture from point to point.

Fragments at Shapour. Drawn by James Morier Esqr. Published by Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown, Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811.

Sculpture at Shapour. Drawn by James Morier Esqr. Published by Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown, Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811.

Sculpture at Shapour. Drawn by James Morier Esqr. Published by Messrs. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown, Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811.

The path that conducted us round to these beautiful monuments, is the course of an aqueduct, which appeared to be of more modern workmanship. Bordering on the road which winds behind the hill of the citadel, are numerous canals of water, formed most artificially and closely cemented with darna. Besides these, there are very deep wells, in parts of which the channels of the aqueduct are seen to pass. After having repassed the river, we walked over the numerous mounds of stones and earth which cover the ruined buildings of Shapour, and which, if ever explored, would discover innumerable secrets of antiquity. We were conducted by the peasants who were with us, to the remains of a very fine wall, which in the symmetry of its masonry equalled any Grecian work that I have ever seen. Each stone was four feet long, twenty-seven inches thick, and cut to the finest angles. This wall formed the front to a square building, the area of which is fifty-five feet. At the top were placed sphinxes couchant, a circumstance which we ascertained from discovering accidentally two eyes and a mutilated foot at the extremity of one of the upper stones. In this wall there is a window, which is arched by the formation of its upper stone. Behind this square building, we traced most correctly the configuration of a theatre, thirty paces in length, and fourteen in breadth. The place resembled at least those called theatres which I have seen in Greece. From a comparison of their positions, we were led to suppose that the building still extant must have been connected with the other behind it, and may have formed perhaps the entrance to it. [Plate XIII.]

There are distinct mounds of earth scattered over the whole site of the city, to each of which there are one or more wells. These we supposed to be ruins of separate houses. The people of Kauzeroon relate that there are immense subterraneous passages at Shapour, and connect the most extraordinary stories with them. Certainly one of the least extraordinary is, that a horse and mare were lost in them, and some time after re-appeared with a foal. Our informer added that one of his own acquaintance was sent into these passages, and had advanced some way when he perceived a gigantic figure, which to his fears appeared approaching towards him. He recovered himself however so far as to venture up to it, when, instead of a living monster, he found a sculptured figure, the same as those on the exterior of the rock. As a measure of the extent of these labyrinths, they say, that it would require twenty mauns of oil, (a maun is seven pounds and a quarter) to light any one through all their intricacies.

The plants that we noticed near the river, on the site of the city, and about the surrounding plain, were the palma christi, rodo-dendron, the willow, wild fig, a plant which the Persians call shauk-a-booz, and caveer, reeds, and benak or spice plant. The plain towards Shapour is much more cultivated than towards Kauzeroon, and is intersected by a variety of small artificial channels, which receive their supplies from the river. The river itself is a stream of very fine water, but after having run for about eighteen miles, it meets with a bed of salt among the mountains, which renders its waters in its farther progress towards the sea quite salt.

After having enjoyed the pleasure of exploring these remains, we returned to Kauzeroon. This town covers a large extent of country, but its walls and skirts are almost all in ruins. There is one green spot near it, a garden planted chiefly with cypress and orange trees, and belonging to the Governor. We walked there in the evening: at the entrance is a pleasure house, from which the principal avenue and garden are seen. We drank coffee in an upper room, neatly matted and stuccoed, with painted glass windows; and after having so long roamed over barren mountains and desert plains, were much pleased to meet with regular paths, refreshing rivulets, and luxuriant vegetation.32 The blackbird and the thrush were flying from tree to tree, and reminded us how sensibly we had changed our climate.

We set off at eight o’clock on the morning of the 26th, and arrived at our encampment in the valley of Abdoui, at half past twelve. The road led by the walls of Kauzeroon, and through the plain, until we came to a causeway called the Poul-aub-guinee, which is reckoned two fursungs from Kauzeroon. From this spot (which is a swamp forming the termination of the lake from the southward) the road begun to wind up a high mountain called the Dockter or “Daughter.” Over this, in the most difficult parts of the ascent, a road has been made, and parapet walls built to screen the traveller from the dangers of the precipices, which in some parts form an abrupt boundary to the road. Formerly this road was singularly dangerous, and all the exertions and ingenuity of the caravan drivers and leaders of mules were necessary to conduct their animals in safety to the bottom. We were told that the driver, when his mule was about descending a very steep part of the pass, would seize it by the tail, and then with all his might hold it fast, until the animal had found a footing for his fore feet, when again he helped it in the same manner, until it was in perfect safety. We reached the summit of the Dockter at about half past ten, and from thence we marched over a better road, until we descended into the small and beautiful valley of Abdoui. It is thickly covered with oak trees, which, though of a small kind indeed, must in summer render it a verdant and refreshing spot.

Whilst we were at dinner it was announced to the Envoy, that one of his old Persian friends Mahomed Reza Khan was about to meet him on his route; that he was the bearer of good news, and would therefore demand his moodjdéhlook, the customary present. The news was the defeat of the Russians at Erivan, whose loss in killed and prisoners amounted, according to the Persian’s report, to six thousand men. A firman from the King was also announced to be at this time on the road for the Envoy.

Our picturesque camp, which was interspersed amongst the oaks of the valley, was in motion at a quarter before eight on the morning of the 27th. After traversing nearly the full length of the plain, perhaps four miles, we proceeded to the long and tedious rise of the Peera zun, or “Old Woman,” a mountain, the greatest height of which formed the termination of our several ascents. We were at the top at twelve o’clock, when we commenced our descent into the plain of Desht-e-arjun, at the north extremity of which is situated the village of the same name. Before we entered it, we were met by Mahomed Reza Khan, who presented his letters from the Minister at the court of Shiraz, and who received our compliments on the success of the Persian arms. About two miles before we reached our encampment, we were met by the istakball, which was like all the others, excepting that it was accompanied by an old man blowing a brass trumpet of most broken, hoarse and discordant note, and by a ragged boy on an ass, who was beating two little kettle drums. About a quarter of a mile from the village there is a burial place, with a lion on one of the tombs as at Derees, and just under the mountain are a number of willow trees, watered by a fine gushing spring.

The plain itself is swampy; but the heights which bound it are all of a hard and inhospitable rock. In the swamp are wild fowl innumerable, ducks, snipes, and divers. The spring was here most luxuriant, and rendered the plain of Desht-e-arjun one of the most delightful spots which we had seen in the country. Some of the eminences are in summer covered with vines, the seps of which were now seen just peeping out of the brown soil. We were fortunate in having passed the mountains; for we had scarcely reached our encampment, when thick clouds covered their summits, and here and there left extensive layers of snow.

On the 28th, the morning was extremely cold, when the camp broke up; we set off at half past eight, and arrived at our resting place at a quarter to twelve, a distance which we call ten miles. We continued all the road in the same region as the plain of Desht-e-arjun, nor do I think that any very considerable descent had brought us much below the summit of the Peera Zun. The people of the country reckon Khoné Zenioun colder than Desht-e-arjun, and indeed than any other habitable place on their side of Persia. These spots are certainly much more elevated than any other part in the line of our route. At Khoné Zenioun there is only a Caravanserai; near it a small stream runs to the Eastward; we came to its banks at half past ten o’clock, but did not cross it till close under the walls of the Caravanserai.

Whilst sitting quietly in our tents, we were hurried by the information that Kerim Khan, the bearer of the King’s letter, was within a mile of our encampment. As it was necessary to receive it with every honour, we exchanged our travelling clothes for uniforms and swords, which the Persians have learnt to esteem as the dress of ceremony among Europeans. We proceeded in all haste to the Shiraz road, with the body guard in their best clothes, with flying colours and trumpets sounding; and had advanced scarcely a quarter of a mile, when we perceived the Khan and his party descending a neighbouring hill. The Envoy, the Mehmandar, and all the gentlemen of the suite dismounted from their horses, and walked in form towards Kerim Khan, who, in the same manner, advanced towards us with an attendant behind him, bearing the King’s firman. When the greetings of welcome were interchanged, the Khan took the King’s letter from under a handkerchief, with which it was covered, and delivered it into the Envoy’s hands, saying aloud, “This is the King’s firman.” Sir Harford received it with both his hands, and having carried it respectfully to his head, placed it in his breast. We then mounted our horses, and returned to the Envoy’s tent, where all parties were seated according to their respective ranks. A long exchange of compliments then took place between the principals, “khosh amedeed” and “bisgar khosh amedeed,” (you are welcome, you are very welcome), were repeated again and again. This is the phrase after the “selam alek,” which is always used in Persia, and which answers to the “khosh gueldin” of the Turks. The Turks never use the “selam alek” to a Christian, or to one who is not of the faith; but the Persians are less scrupulous. Kerim Khan conveyed many flattering compliments from the King to the Envoy, and added a great number on his own part. Sir Harford called for Peer Murad Beg, his chief Moonshee, to read the firman. He arrived barefooted, and stood respectfully at the end of the tent; when the firman was put into his hands all the company stood up, and the Europeans took off their hats: Peer Murad Beg read the firman aloud, with a marked and song-like emphasis. He then delivered it to Sir Harford, and we all seated ourselves again. After this, the usual routine of smoking and coffee was performed, during which the different gentlemen in the room were presented to Kerim Khan; our Mehmandar officiated in this instance, and described all our different qualities and qualifications with a great deal of humour. Kerim Khan then departed to lodge with the Mehmandar, who, on this occasion, displayed considerable attention, though, in his general manners, he had appeared a rough blunt soldier: knowing that the Envoy (to whom in etiquette the duty devolved) was unprovided for the reception of such a guest, he requested permission himself to entertain the stranger.

29th. We departed from Khoné Zenioun this morning at half past seven; and at a quarter past eleven arrived at the Bagh Shah Cheragh, a distance of twenty miles. We travelled mostly over a country of ascents and descents, and on a better road than those of the preceding days. The same river, by the banks of which we had been encamped, accompanied us in various directions, and, winding towards the east, met us at a station of Rahdars,33 (as we were entering the plain of Shiraz), where we crossed it on a decayed bridge, and saw the first view of Shiraz at the end of the plain. This day was replete with attentions and honours to Sir Harford and his Mission; an istakball, composed of fifty horsemen of our Mehmandar’s tribe, met us about three miles from our encampment; they were succeeded, as we advanced, by an assemblage on foot, who threw a glass vessel filled with sweetmeats beneath the Envoy’s horse, a ceremony which we had before witnessed at Kauzeroon, and which we again understood to be an honour shared with the King and his sons alone. Then came two of the principal merchants of Shiraz, accompanied by a boy, the son of Mahomed Nebee Khan, the new Governor of Bushire. They, however, incurred the Envoy’s displeasure by not dismounting from their horses, a form always observed in Persia by those of lower rank, when they meet a superior. We were thus met by three istakballs during the course of the day, and Mahomed Zeky Khan, our Mehmandar, amused us by the singing of a young boy, one of the first professional performers of Shiraz. A number of feats were performed by many of the horsemen who overspread the plain to a great extent; some throwing the girid, and then firing their pistols and muskets on full gallop, and others throwing the lance in the air, and catching it again.

On our road the Mehmandar, who had just received the message from Shiraz, announced that one of the Prince’s own tents was pitched at Bagh Shah Cheragh for the Envoy, and that the Prince further begged his acceptance of it. The present, which was offered with so much attention and delicacy, was worthy of the hand which gave it. On our arrival we found it displayed in the full elegance of its construction. It enclosed a large square occupied by a set of walls, the exterior of which was a crimson field, with green embroidery; on their interior covering were worked cypress trees and fighting lions. The whole was supported by three lofty and elegantly painted poles. Rich carpets were spread on the ground, and the ceilings and hangings were of the finest Masulipatam chintz, with appropriate poetical mottoes painted in the cornices. The Feroshes (or tent-pitchers) had contrived to make a small temporary garden before the entrance, and to introduce a little stream of water to run through the few green sprouts which they had planted. Three large trays of sweetmeats were placed in the tent ready for the Envoy’s reception; upon which, when our visitors were departed, we fed heartily. During the night, a fall of snow very opportunely laid the dust for our entrance into the city, in which were to be displayed all our splendour and finery.