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In Praise of Rock Gardens

As a rule a rock garden should not be near the house; it is something savoring of the wild that does not fit in with most architecture.

~ Henry S. Adams

In my part of the world, northeast United States, there are rocks and more rocks. If you are a gardener, the urge to combine rocks with plants is a natural one. This endeavor can begin a lifelong love of rock gardens as it did for me. And the one thing that I have discovered is that there are as many styles of rock gardens as there are rocks. It is all dependent on what you want and where you live. They can be expansive and dramatic or small and quiet. They may be located along a road, by the beach or in an urban backyard. In this chapter, I describe various rock garden styles and focus on the rocks and their placement.

Heat-loving plants such as agave (Agave americana) and Mexican feathergrass (Nassella tenuissima) thrive in the Gravel Garden in Chanticleer, a Philadelphia-area “pleasure garden.” Planted on an open slope, the Gravel Garden features granite steps, stone benches and gravel mulch that surrounds heat-loving, drought tolerant plants.

In rock gardens, the stones are the show. Their character may instill a feeling of a “savoring of the wild,” as H. S. Adams noted in his classic book Making a Rock Garden. In these gardens, rocks of all sizes and textures are set solidly into a natural setting with few straight lines or symmetry. They need not be complicated and are basically a habitat where plants and rocks co-exist. Here are a few ideas:

• A single existing boulder can be enhanced with a few additional rocks scattered nearby.

• A steep stony bank or outcrop can be planted up with some selected plants.

• A small rocky channel can run through an expanse of carefully placed rocks and succulents.

• A rocky hill can become a showcase for a collection of plants and stones.

Where to Locate a Rock Garden

The recreation of a mountainous rocky landscape was a popular endeavor in the past, when the classical advice was to set a rock garden away from the house and beyond the outdoor living area. But today, current styles have widened beyond the original alpine model and rock gardens can be established wherever you want. You are free to create what you like – where you like – with the understanding that, above all, rocks are the essential component. Even the name has changed; rock gardens are now commonly called rockeries. This moniker embraces all kinds of man-made rock environments.

Rockeries can fit in with the most irregular of sites, such as hot, rocky outcrops or forgotten side yards. It does not matter if there is sun or shade because rocks withstand any environment. The plants, however, must be suited to the light conditions you provide. The stones can be accompanied by sun-loving sedums or by a collection of hardy shade-tolerant ferns. A cautionary note: do not create a rock garden beneath a tree with greedy or inhospitable roots or dense shade such as a Norway maple (Acer platanoides). The roots may fight with the plants for water and prevent the rocks from being set deeply into the earth, while the leaves may cast so much shade that few plants can thrive.

The rock garden in Bartholdi Park, part of the U.S. Botanic Garden, located in Washington, D.C., is an example of the “hill and crest,” where the land slopes up to show off the rock garden denizens.

This colorful rock garden was created by Chris Hansen, plant breeder and hybridizer of SunSparkler® Sedums. The succulents and perennial flowers share the spotlight with the beautifully placed rocks.

Rock gardens can be located to act as a distinct break between other outdoor areas. For example, a garden of stones and plants may break up a long, monotonous walk or become an interesting destination in a hidden corner. You can create a rock garden on an existing slope or, with a little imagination, you can mound up some soil and make a small rise with rocks set within. This follows the “hill and crest” ideal, where rocks of varying sizes are set in a slope behind and above each other. It is a good idea to plant a backdrop of tall plants to show off this scene. You can also weave a rock or mulched path through the garden. That is what I did in the following example, described in the next few pages.

Did you know?

The art of the stone arrangement in Japan is called sute-ishi. ‘Sute-ji’ means build and ‘ishi’ means stone. It was considered the main element of a gardener’s work.

Sequence for Making a Flowering Rock Garden on a Small Slope

If you have a small slope and a supply of stones, you can convert it into a rock garden featuring low-growing flowering plants. In one overgrown hillside garden, I did just that, rearranging some existing stones and adding larger rocks from the site. You should add several larger stones to act as anchors to give a garden some visual weight and create interest. In this garden, I installed a curving narrow path leading through the rocks and plants. It is for tending to the plants and it also leads the eye through the garden. A small path is a good way to create a unified scene. Here is the sequence we used to renovate this small rock garden:

The rock garden before we started. Rocks are scattered around without an overall composition. There is no backdrop of taller plants to bring the garden in the foreground in focus.

The rock garden during the transformation. You can see the curving path with small rocks used as steps. Some larger rocks were brought in, smaller rocks were rearranged and we planted small plants around them. No backdrop plantings have been installed.

1. Stockpile the stones

First, we dislodged the rocks from the hillside garden and stockpiled them nearby.

2. Bring in some large stones

We brought in a few larger stones from another part of the property. We used a tree dolly, similar to a hand truck, to move the large rocks. I always try to use rocks from the area, if possible, because they are “at home” here. Also, try to use a single type of native rock, of the same color and makeup, for a cohesive appearance.

If you buy stones from a quarry or stoneyard, select stones when they are dry and not silt-covered so you can know the real color of the stone.

3. Dig up and save existing plants

We carefully dug up the existing small plants and set them aside. We mulched them and watered them for safekeeping.

4. Lay out the path

I laid out a narrow curving path leading up the rise with “marking” paint (this looks like spray paint but is specifically for marking the ground). Note – you can always redo your markings, so be free when you do this and then step back to review. If you don’t like it then erase the paint and try again. We removed a few inches of soil to denote the path and tamped the earth with a tamper.

5. Cover the area with good soil

I applied a thick layer of good soil over the site. If you have a sunny site, use a soil mix that is light and freely draining. I used a mix that had 2/3 topsoil and 1/3 compost. If you are planting plants that like dry conditions, make sure to add very small gravel into the soil for efficient drainage. Rake it smooth.

6. Place the rocks

Now you are ready to “plant” your rocks. I like to use that term because, in a sense, that is what you do in a rock garden. I first added a few flat rocks as steps in the path that went uphill. I then set the larger rocks, in a naturalistic fashion, into the hillside. To do this, you position the rocks the way you like them, then dig them in, backfilling behind the rock with good soil. I often fill behind a rock to set it in a more upright stance, or I may dig it in deeper to make it appear as if it juts out of the earth. See Seven Tips for Placing Rocks in a Rock Garden, on page 45, for advice on setting rocks in the garden.

In order to set rocks, you must be able to maneuver them around. To do this you should have a crowbar, a large digging bar, shovels, strong arms and a strong back. I heartily recommend that you have help for this part of the endeavor! You do not want to put your back out or give yourself a hernia.

Here is the rock garden when it was finished. I planted low growing, flowering perennials for eye-catching summertime color. I also used rocks as steps in the path. Many of the plants are spreaders and need to be pruned often to reveal the rocks. It features sedum, campanula, dianthus and perennial geranium and others. In the background is a dark green backdrop of dense yew (Taxus × media densiformis) and the yellow Missouri evening primrose (Oenothera missourensis).

7. Place and plant the plants

Now comes the fun part – planting up the rock garden. I placed the plants that we had set aside. I spread the plants around the garden, making sure to alter the foliage types and color to create contrast.

Once the plants are in the locations you like, dig the holes and do not plant too deep. I intentionally placed them close together to minimize weeding. Other people plant more sparingly to enjoy each plant individually. It is your choice. Do not use plants that spread too aggressively because the rocks in this garden should be as much of the show as the plants. For specific rock garden plant suggestions, see Chapter 8, Plants and Stone.

8. Mulch, water and admire

Water in the plants thoroughly. Then cover the surface with a 1" layer of very fine organic mulch and water again. You can also use a thin layer of fine gravel as a covering in a rock garden; this is especially appropriate for a “dry garden” that contains a majority of Mediterranean plants. Water the plants well until established, especially during spells of dry weather.

Rock Placement Tips from Ancient Japan

The 11th century Japanese garden manual Sakuteiki says to listen to “the request” of the rocks. They will tell you how best to place them. Shunmyo Masuno, a Japanese Zen Buddhist priest and contemporary garden designer, agrees and says one must “converse” with the stone, waiting “until it seems to speak and say where it wants to be put.” So don’t feel silly if you think the rock is unhappy in a certain position – move it!

Additionally, the Sakuteiki further explains how to set rocks: “Make sure that all the stones, right down to the front of the arrangement, are placed with their best sides showing. If a stone has an ugly-looking top you should place it so as to give prominence to its side. Even if this means it has to lean at a considerable angle, no one will notice. There should always be more horizontal than vertical stones. If there are “running away” stones there must be “chasing” stones. If there are “leaning” stones, there must be “supporting” stones.”

Moving Large Rocks

Give me a lever and I can move the world

~ Archimedes

Do not try to move large rocks simply with brute strength! Bending at the waist and heaving up a rock is an invitation to a wrenched back or worse. To maneuver a rock, you can move it, roll it, slide it or flip it over end to end. And, of course, you can use a rock sled, hand truck, ramp or lever.

Move it

A good wheelbarrow is handy, but better still is a two-wheeled hand truck or dolly, because they are lower to the ground and more stable. There are also versatile work carts on the market that come with straps to carry large rocks. These require less lifting power. Use a hand truck with large pneumatic tires to better transport heavy loads, such as large flagstones or rocks, across lawns and uneven or rough ground.

Roll it

To move large rocks into place, I have used hefty PVC pipes as rollers. This moving technique works best on flat ground and you will need at least one helper to shift the pipes while you roll the rock forward. Use at least three pieces of 4"-diameter “Schedule 40” PVC pipe. Lift the front of the stone and place two pipes underneath so that the stone rests on the pipes. Set a third pipe in front of the stone so that you can roll the stone forward it. Then when the rear pipe comes free you quickly grab it and place it in front of the rock and repeat.

You can use a tree cart, or tree dolly, to move large rocks around. These can be rented at a local rental center.

Lift it

If you need to lift a heavy stone, keep the strain to a minimum. Use a commercial grade product such as the “Potlifter” that is designed for this task. It has lifting loops and lets you insert carrying poles. By grabbing the pole handles, between two to four people can lift rocks weighing up to 350 pounds and up to 34" in diameter.

By inserting carrying poles within the open handles, several people can lift rocks weighing up to 350 pounds. Having the right tool helps in these situations.

The product known as a PotLifter™ lets two people grab and twist the handles, as shown, to carry large rocks. Don’t forget to wear work gloves!

Wear Gloves When Working with Stones

If you carry stones or handle any big outdoor job, it is important to wear protective gloves to guard against punctures, cuts and skin abrasion as well as protection against cold and wet conditions. Look for well-fitting gloves that have a wrist closure. This provides an extra-close fit that prevents things from getting inside the glove. Dorian Winslow, president and owner of Womanswork, manufacturer of gardening gloves and much more, says the most important things to look for in a work glove, besides good fit, are good grip and materials that offer good resistance to abrasion. This applies both to leather or non leather gloves with features such as doubly reinforced fingertips and padded palms.

Seven Tips for Placing Rocks in a Rock Garden

You may think that placing rocks in a slope or on a flat plain is no big deal, but in fact, there are several considerations that go into making an appealing rockery. Below are some guidelines; as with most things, they are only suggestions. Feel free to do what makes sense to you.

1. Bury the rocks at least 1/3 in the ground to create a natural appearance. You can bury deeper if you want.

2. There should be more rocks that sit horizontally than vertically. This “grounds” the scene.

3. Have the natural “face” of the rock visible, in accordance with how it was positioned in nature.

4. If the rocks are stratified or have lines, locate the rocks so that these lines run in the same direction with each other. This ensures that they don’t look scattered and strewn about.

5. Slant the rocks slightly to direct rainwater into the soil.

6. Locate larger stones toward the base of the slope and smaller ones uphill. This mimics nature in a way.

7. Space the rocks to create crevices where you can tuck in creeping plants that will wander over nearby stones.

The Cactus Garden in Lotusland in Montecito, California, shows how incorporating spiny cacti in a modern rock garden can work.

A Cactus Rock Garden

A very different kind of rock garden can be found in Lotusland, a stunning 37-acre public garden in Montecito, California. The dramatic Cactus Garden makes up three-quarters of an acre and features diorite boulders, a coarse-grained igneous rock, a series of sandstone steps and unusual columnar cacti. This striking rockery was made possible by the donation of an outstanding cactus collection and was arranged by the landscape designer, Eric Nagelmann. He placed vertical columns of basalt stone throughout the garden to highlight the sculptural qualities of the tall plants. He also created deep planting beds among the stones and filled them with specially formulated soil suited for desert plants. The Cactus Garden is a powerful testament to the beauty of elemental stone and exotic cacti.

Exotic cacti such as species of Opuntia, endemic to the Galapagos Islands, make their home alongside specially arranged boulders.

The garden is mulched with one hundred tons of shiny black slate chips from a slate mine on the American River near Placerville, California. The dark-colored slate mulch serves to reduce weeds and retain heat in the root zone to keep the cacti happy.

The Cactus Garden at Lotusland shows us new ways to use natural stone in an arid garden. The sky is the limit when it comes to style and placement, as long as you supply the correct environment preferred by the plants. If you can get some tall narrow stones, why not try a version of this contemporary artful garden in your property?

An angular basalt block set as a standing stone reflects the forms of the tall cacti that surround it in Lotusland.

The orange daylilies planted around this rock outcrop are a vivid companion to the bright yellow coreopsis and the blue agapanthus. I planted blue flowers and evergreens to counterbalance the orange. A summer delight for the eye.

A Summer Flowering Rock Outcrop Garden

Large rock outcrops can be outstanding by themselves but, if you are like me, sometimes the urge to add plants within and around a large rock is too strong to resist. In the rock garden shown here, I added topsoil and compost and then planted a wide variety of flowering plants along with ground-hugging sedums and evergreens. The result is a dressed-up rock outcrop that dazzles in the summer. It is not a dry garden – it is irrigated, which allows the flowering plants to flourish.