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Introduction

The Peninsula Bayside, Mountain, and Coastside Setting

Geography

The Santa Cruz Mountains are part of the Coast Ranges of California. They run northwest to southeast, extending from Montara Mountain near San Francisco to Mt. Madonna near Watsonville. A natural divide splits the range into two parts at the Highway 17 pass between Los Gatos and Santa Cruz. The Spaniards called the southern section the Sierra Azul (“blue mountains”) and the northern part, the Sierra Morena (brown or dark mountains). The area covered by this guide centers on the Sierra Morena and includes land from the San Francisco Bay on the east to the Pacific Ocean on the west. The highest mountain in the Sierra Morena, at 2800 feet, is appropriately called Black Mountain.

The east side of the Santa Cruz Mountains, steeper than the west, is cut into deep canyons by streams that empty into San Francisco Bay. The upper reaches of these creeks, which still flow more or less untrammeled down through the mountains and the foothills, are some of the main delights of the mountainside parks. Where these creeks meandered across the Bay plain, they were once the dominant features of the landscape, bordered by huge oaks, bays, alders, and sycamores. Now they have all but disappeared from sight in the flatlands, being mostly confined to concrete ditches and culverts and bordered by chain-link fences. Two happy exceptions are the lower reaches of Los Trancos and San Francisquito creeks, which still retain their parklike tree borders as they wind through Portola Valley and the undeveloped lands of Stanford University. They are the sites of popular creekside trails.

The western slopes of the Santa Cruz Mountains are a different world from the eastern side. Very few roads cross the summit; those that do usually follow old Indian trails or Spanish routes or are remnants of former logging roads. Originally thickly forested, the canyons and ridges now support a second or third growth of redwoods and Douglas firs, interspersed with live oak, black oak, tan oak, bay laurel, and smaller shrubs and trees. Some groves of giant redwoods were spared the axe and saw. Toward the Coastside some areas formerly ranched are still open grassland.

Westflowing creeks are generally larger and longer than Bayside streams, due to the heavier rainfall on the Coastside and the greater distance from the mountains to the sea. Present-day trails follow major creeks flowing through state and county parks to the ocean along routes trod by early settlers.

Geology

The Santa Cruz Mountains were formed over the millennia by the uplifting, folding, and faulting of rocks. Frequent earthquakes in the area tell us that forces deep within the earth continue to reshape the land. The San Andreas Fault, which spans the length of California, is the most influential feature of the Peninsula landscape. It runs northwest-southeast roughly parallel to the main and highest ridge of the Santa Cruz Mountains, popularly known as The Skyline.

In the 1890s Andrew Lawson, a noted California geologist, recognized the rift valley running south toward Loma Prieta and Mt. Umunhum and north up the Crystal Springs Valley as far as San Andreas Lake, about 25 miles in each direction. He named the fault for the northernmost of the rift-valley lakes. The great earthquake of 1906, centered a few miles offshore and west of San Francisco’s Lake Merced, made the San Andreas Fault famous around the world. A dramatic vantage point from which to view this fault is the top of Los Trancos Open Space Preserve on a fault saddle between the Skyline ridge and Monte Bello Ridge.

Hikers mind their footing on the trail to San Bruno Mountain’s summit.

The Santa Cruz Mountains are very young geologically. The oldest exposed rocks on the Peninsula were formed only 150 million years ago, whereas the oldest known rocks on earth are four billion years old. In spite of its youth, Peninsula geology is extremely complex because the area lies at the boundary between the Pacific and the North American plates. These plates have been (and still are) moving very slowly past each other for the last several million years at an average rate of 1 to 2 inches per year. As a result of movements along the fault, granitic rocks originally formed about 90 million years ago in the area now occupied by Southern California lie deep under most of the land west of the San Andreas fault, and are exposed on Montara Mountain.

From the concept of plate tectonics, and the kind of bedrock formation found in the Santa Cruz Mountains, the following geologic history can be inferred. Between 150 and 65 million years ago, massive quantities of lava flows, red ooze, sand, and mud accumulated in complex layers on the Pacific Plate in a location west of what is now the California coast. These deposits on the ocean floor were hardened to rock, partly crushed and thoroughly mixed as the edge of the Pacific Plate was pushed under the North American continent, thus moving what is called the Franciscan Complex to its present location on the east side of the Pilarcitos and San Andreas faults. This complex is composed of shale, siltstone, limestone, sandstone, chert, and greenstone. Outcrops of these rocks occur on Sweeney and Sawyer ridges, San Bruno Mountain, Belmont Hill, and Monte Bello Ridge.

Serpentine, the California state rock, occurs in outcrops along Sawyer Camp Trail, in road cuts along I–280 from Woodside north, in Edgewood Park, and in scattered locations on Monte Bello Ridge. The linear fault valleys of the Peninsula exist because rock broken by fault movements erodes more rapidly than rock farther from the fault. You can see other and more recent signs of faulting on the Peninsula. Where the fault crosses the ridge at the top of Los Trancos Open Space Preserve, the crushed rock has eroded to form a fault saddle. Sag ponds at the preserve result from horizontal fault displacements that shifted hill slopes, blocked ravines, and created undrained depressions. Earthquake movements have changed stream courses along upper Stevens Creek Canyon. Landslides occur frequently in the steep Santa Cruz Mountains; many were triggered by the 1906 and 1989 quakes and their prehistoric counterparts.

The San Gregorio Fault runs northwest-southeast inland from the coast on the west side of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Its effects are seen in the shifts of creek directions near Butano State Park, at Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, and near Mussel Rock.

Plant and Animal Life

In this guide we mention some of the trees, flowers and creatures you may encounter, but we can touch only briefly on a few of the many species. Following are brief descriptions of the major plant communities. Fortunately for those whose curiosity is aroused, there are many excellent publications that focus on the plants and wildlife of the Bay Area and California. See Appendix II.

More than 1700 species grow in the Santa Cruz Mountains and on their western and eastern flanks, categorized into what are known as plant communities—a group of plants with similar tolerances and similar adaptations to environmental conditions.

On the east side of the Skyline ridge there are four main plant communities:

1. Mixed woodlands—characterized by the rounded forms of the oaks, madrones, bays, and buckeyes that cover much of our hillsides.

2. Open, rolling grasslands—a noticeably different community of mountainside meadows and foothill pasturelands. Mostly imported annual grasses, they are green in winter, dry and golden in summer, and characteristic of California and other Mediterranean climates, distinguished by winter rains and summer drought.

3. Conifer forests of firs and redwoods—tall, evergreen trees that cover thousands of acres in the Skyline ridge watersheds, parks, and sheltered canyons. Although the redwoods were cut over in the 19th century, extensive stands have grown again.

4. Chaparral—a dense growth of shrubs and trees specially adapted to winter rains and long, dry summers that thrive on hot dry slopes. Their leathery or waxy evergreen leaves, sometimes curled inward, conserve moisture, and their long taproots reach water deep below the surface. These plants form a scratchy thicket, unfriendly to the hiker but home to many species of wildlife. The Spaniards are said to have named the vegetation “chaparral” after a Spanish evergreen oak, the chaparro.

Coastal Trail south of Miramontes Point

On the west side of the Santa Cruz Mountains, heavy winter rainfall and summer fog nurture a thick forest in the canyons and on the upper slopes. Up to 60 inches of rain falls in wet years, about 45 inches in normal years. Summer fog is formed when cold water beside the coast upwells to the surface and chills the moisture-laden air above, causing condensation. The rising hot air inland creates a partial vacuum, into which foggy air flows.

The west side has three main plant communities:

1. Giant coast redwood trees—the moisture encourages lush growth in southern San Mateo County and nurtures associated Douglas firs; tan oak and bay laurel trees grow among these conifers until they are shaded out by the taller redwoods.

2. Grasslands—found on exposed west- and south-facing ridges, making sunny pockets scattered along the trails. They are either native grasses or introduced species.

3. Coastal scrub—a softer version of chaparral found on the coast itself, where the winds are strong and the salt spray pervasive, covering consists of some native grasses and introduced species that cover most of the coastal terraces and bluffs.

Fauna—You will also see and hear numerous birds, and if you look closely you will notice lizards, salamanders and the myriad spiders and insects of the earth. You may see a squirrel in the trees or an occasional rabbit in the brush. Larger animals, once so plentiful, are now seldom seen, though you may have the pleasure of catching sight of a deer in the woods or an occasional coyote in the grasslands. Mammal predators such as gray foxes, coyotes, bobcats, and even an occasional mountain lion live in the wild areas.

Footprints in the wet earth by a stream or in the dust on a sunny trail will tell you there is still animal life nearby. Small holes in the ground and tunnels underfoot are probably all you will see of the many burrowers, such as badgers, voles, field mice, and gophers. In thick woodlands you may find the three-foot-high piles of sticks that are the homes of woodrats. Along the San Francisco Bay Trail there are a few places where small populations of the burrowing owl are still extant.

The Peninsula’s and Coastside’s Past

Although humans have lived on the Peninsula for at least 3000 years, it is only in the past 200 years that they have significantly changed the natural landscape. Spanish newcomers in the 18th century hunted game with their guns, brought herds that grazed the hills, and introduced annual grasses that supplanted the native bunchgrass. By the mid-19th century, Anglos from the East were changing the face of the Peninsula, logging over the forests and farming the valleys and foothills.

But it was not until the mid-20th century that the settlements scattered down the length of the Peninsula suddenly spread over the valley, reshaped the hills, and replaced woodlands and orchards with houses, roads, and shopping centers.

However, the Bayside, which four decades ago was seemingly about to be engulfed in buildings, is now witnessing renewed efforts toward containing its urban spread. Public and private groups are setting aside parks, preserves, and trail corridors that complement the increasingly dense settlement patterns of the Bayside. An expanding system of public greenbelts now gives us the opportunity to walk through the lovely foothill landscape, follow a stream, or climb a trail up our steep mountains to thousands of acres of forest on both sides of the Skyline ridge. Public beaches and a coastal trail offer access to the length of the San Mateo County Coast. A walking and bicycling trail on the Bay’s shore extends from the San Francisco to Palo Alto with only a few gaps. The total size of public parklands in the area covered by this book is more than 60,000 acres. Peninsula and Bay Area residents are fortunate that foresighted citizens urged the state and counties to buy so much beautiful, unspoiled land for public parks. It is the goal of this guide book to help the reader explore all the wonderful parks and preserves lying on both sides of the Skyline ridge from the San Francisco County line to roughly the area north of Highways 85 and 9.

Earliest Inhabitants

The first people to walk these hills were the Ohlones, a tribe of hunter-gatherers who lived along the Bay and Pacific shores and in the foothills between San Francisco and Monterey. When the first European explorers came to the Peninsula, they found their way crisscrossed by trails worn by these Native Americans as they went from their creekside villages to the shores of the Bay, into the hills, and across the mountains to the coast. Before the Spanish era the Peninsula supported one of the densest Native American populations in the country. Nearly 10,000 Ohlones lived between San Francisco and Monterey.

The Ohlones lived well without cultivating the land. They thrived on the incredible bounty of Peninsula woodlands, streams, and shores. Elk, deer, antelope, coyote, fox, bear, and mountain lion roamed the hills, along with plentiful small game. Birds, particularly waterfowl, filled the air in sky-darkening numbers. Acorns, the staple of the Ohlones’ diet, were gathered from the thick stands of oak in the hills and on the valley floors. Families returned to ancestral groves year after year to harvest. Welcome seasonal additions to their diet were the plentiful grass and flower seeds, roots, fruits, and berries. They also used the bountiful supply of fish and shellfish from the Bay, the creeks, and the ocean. Indeed, when early explorers were offered gifts of food, they commented that native fare was palatable, even tasty.

Although the tribelets traveled between Bay and foothills most of the year to gather food, they did not stray far from the small territories they considered their own. A few groups made longer expeditions to trade with others for beads, salt, pine nuts, obsidian, abalone shells, and wood for bows. Regular trade routes crossed the hills between Bay and ocean.

The Ohlones were able to provide well for their people and lived in relative peace with their neighbors and in harmony with the land. Save for the periodic burning of the native bunchgrasses and underbrush in the meadows to keep them open for better hunting and acorn-gathering, and the paths worn by centuries of their footprints, these peoples had little impact on the land or the animals around them. Early Europeans reported that the natives moved among the wildlife and small game without arousing their fears. As Malcolm Margolin states in The Ohlone Way, animals and humans inhabited the very same world, and the distance between them was not very great.”

The coming of the European, with guns, horses, and cattle, changed all this. The antelope, elk, and bear soon disappeared, and other animals retreated from sight. Changes in the land were profound. Cattle grazing and the inadvertent introduction of European oat grass nearly eliminated the native perennial grasses. For the native peoples, change was swift and complete with the advent of the Spanish missions.

The Spanish-Mexican Period

Two centuries after Europeans first explored the California coast by ship, the overland expedition of Gaspar de Portolá discovered San Francisco Bay in 1769. This event paved the way for permanent Spanish settlement. Mission Dolores and the Presidio of San Francisco, as well as Mission Santa Clara, were founded in 1776. A year later, the Pueblo of Guadalupe in San José was built. Mission Santa Cruz on the Coastside was founded in 1791.

After the founding of these missions and their supporting ranches and outposts, most of the natives had been moved from their villages to missions and ranches, their families broken up, their old ways lost. In just over half a century the stable culture that had changed little over thousands of years disappeared. In the final tragedy, the native people succumbed by the thousands to imported diseases to which they had little or no resistance.

In the brief period of Mexican rule the missions and their supporting farms were secularized, and the ensuing disruptions of mission life further demoralized the remaining natives. Then, with the Gold Rush came land-hungry Easterners, who gained title to the few remaining lands occupied by the native peoples, displacing these first Americans who had lived in harmony on the Peninsula for so long. The United States census of 1860 listed only 62 persons on the Peninsula as Native Americans.

In the early Spanish days the entire Peninsula was divided into a few vast supporting ranches for the missions and Presidio. Herds of cattle and sheep grazed over the hills. Grains, vegetables, and fruits from the ranches on the Bayside near San Mateo and from the coast north of Santa Cruz supplied these Spanish outposts.

When Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821, the government secularized the missions and their ranches. To encourage settlement of the land the Mexican governors of California made grants of land to individuals. They divided the Peninsula into huge ranchos, as large as the 35,000-acre Rancho de las Pulgas. (East of the Skyline ridge in the area covered by this guide were the Ranchos Guadalupe, BuriBuri, Feliz, Raimundo de las Pulgas, Martinez, Corte de Madera, Purissima de Concepción, and San Antonio. To the west were the Ranchos San Pedro, Corral de Tierra, Miramontes, Cañada Verde y Arroyo de la Purisima, San Gregorio, Pescadero, Butano, and Punta del Año Nuevo.)

The brief flowering of these Mexican ranchos ended in 1848 when the American flag was raised over California. The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, intended to protect the titles of Mexican land grants, failed to do so. Hordes of Americans from the east, eager for land after the discovery of gold, poured into northern California. The great ranchos were soon divided and sold or even usurped by squatters.

On the San Mateo Coastside, American settlers took over the lands from the Mexican rancheros by fair means or foul. By 1853, Andrew Johnston, having come by wagon over the mountains from San Mateo, had settled in a large house (still standing) near present-day Half Moon Bay. In 1855 a toll road was built on this mountain alignment, making it easier to send farm produce to the Bayside towns. Other settlers moved north from Santa Cruz—the Moore family established a homestead in Pescadero and the Steele brothers started a dairy near Punta Año Nuevo. Butter and cheese, shingles, and tanbark were shipped from a variety of rather precarious wharves and chutes.

Webb Ranch nestled at the base of the Portola Valley foothills

Eventually tourists discovered the Coastside, and by 1907 the Ocean Shore Railroad was built south from San Francisco, reaching as far as Tunitas Creek. Another railroad worked north from Santa Cruz, but the two never met. The gap between Tunitas and Swanton (present-day Davenport) was crossed by Stanley Steamer. In 1920, storms washed out parts of the Ocean Shore Railroad and it never was reconstructed.

When modern-day roads were built along the alignments of the earlier railroad tracks, the Coastside settlements grew apace, mainly as “bedroom communities” for Bayside workers. Half Moon Bay is the only incorporated city on the Coastside, but the communities of Montara, Moss Beach, El Granada, and Pescadero are expanding as fast as their limited water supplies allow.

Logging

The Spanish had dealt lightly with the forested Peninsula hills. They felled by ax the redwoods cut to build their missions. In fact, they later expressed concern over unrestrained logging by the Anglos. The greatly increased demand for lumber to build Gold Rush San Francisco brought the first major change to the Sierra Morena, particularly to that part known as the Pulgas Redwoods—the forest above present-day Portola Valley and Woodside. The new owners of these lands logged them heavily with whipsaws. They built sawmills powered first by water, then by steam engines. As many as 50 sawmills operated in these forests, turning out lumber to build San Francisco and then rebuild it after its fires. By 1870 the huge trees, some 10 feet or more in diameter, were gone. Hardly a redwood tree remained standing east of the Skyline, but logging continued in the vast forests on the western slopes. Most of the original giant trees were cut by 1900, but redwoods are fast-growing in this climate, and second-growth trees of marketable size still are being harvested on private lands.

Farming and Ranching

With the redwoods gone in eastern San Mateo County, some of the lower slopes of the mountains were planted with orchards and vineyards. Dairy farms and large estates covered the foothills. During the late 1800s in northern Santa Clara County, ranchers planted vineyards and orchards of plums, apricots, peaches, pears, and cherries on the valley floor and in the lower foothills. This area became one of the most productive fruit-growing areas in the world. The scent of blossoming trees filled the air every spring. Ripening fruits on the trees and trays of apricots, peaches, and prunes drying in the fields made summers colorful in the peaceful orchard country. On western slopes open land became livestock and dairy farms. Later, row crops of artichokes and brussels sprouts were grown in large acreages and greenhouses containing flowers proliferated.

Urbanization and Public Open Space

In eastern San Mateo County, a century of settlement saw the gradual break-up of large estates and the burgeoning of towns. By 1863, tracks for the San Francisco and San Jose Railroad had been laid as far as Palo Alto and soon they extended to San Jose. By 1900, a string of suburban towns had grown up along the railroad, which shaped the growth of the Peninsula until the coming of the automobile.

The Santa Clara Valley orchards survived until the middle years of the 20th century, when people poured into the Peninsula after World War II. Industry expanded in the valley, and orchard after orchard gave way to housing tracts. Towns grew until their borders touched to form the present unbroken urban band along the Bay.

Although houses had been built on the gentler slopes of the eastern foothills, the steeper hillsides, where road building was too difficult, remained wild. By the mid1950s there were still many undeveloped hillsides, forested slopes, and canyons in a relatively natural state. As the concept of public open space evolved, the precipitous canyons and oak-covered hills were seen as welcome breaks between subdivisions. These are the lands that have become parks and open space preserves where miles of trails beckon hikers, equestrians, and bicyclists today. By the 1980s many forests and ranchlands west of the Skyline were acquired for parks and preserves.

In the 1990s and early in this century on the Coastside, the Peninsula Open Space Trust purchased farm lands and resold them to farmers who signed conservation easements that permanently reserved the land for agriculture. POST bought the 5638-acre Cloverdale Coastal Ranch in the late ‘90s and later gave 905 acres to enlarge Butano State Park. Also on the Coastside, Sempervirens Fund purchased an undivided one-half interest in 1800 forested acres along Gazos Creek south of Butano State Park. In 2004 the State of California park system bought some of these acres to add to Butano State Park.

In addition, several private citizens gave sizeable properties to POST, one of which, the Thysen Bald Knob piece, is now part of Purisima Creek Redwoods Open Space Preserve. More recently, the Mike and Margaret O’Neill family gave 482 acres adjacent to Rancho Corral de Tierra’s southern boundary. Eventually this property will provide an exceptional link to the already vast public lands in the northwest corner of San Mateo County.

San Francisco Watershed Lands

The vast city of San Francisco Watershed lands in the heart of San Mateo County have remained relatively wild since early logging ceased here, their hills spared from development and their reservoirs forming a sparkling chain of lakes. Its 23,000 acres lie between the wooded northern Santa Cruz Mountains and the lower hills to the east. It drains into upper San Mateo Creek, which was dammed in the 1890s. The resultant Crystal Springs Lakes and San Andreas Lake to the north are now water-supply reservoirs for San Francisco and much of the Peninsula.

When San Francisco needed more water than local wells could supply, the city’s Spring Valley Water Company began buying up lands in the Watershed and building reservoirs. In 1862 they dammed Pilarcitos Lake in the northwest part of the Watershed, bringing water by gravity to San Francisco along a 32-mile wooden flume. Next they built the San Andreas Dam and the two Crystal Springs dams. The last of these dams, built across the gorge of San Mateo Creek, was completed in 1896, the engineering feat of its time. Although it is only 1200 feet from the San Andreas Fault rupture of 1906, it withstood the earthquake. Today a road and a trail cross this dam.

When San Francisco’s needs were again outpacing its water supply, the city acquired the private Spring Valley Water Company and started the ambitious project of bringing water from the Sierra Nevada. In 1934 the O'Shaughnessy Dam at Hetch Hetchy was completed and a pipeline was built across the San Joaquin Valley. Sierra waters flowed into the Crystal Springs lakes through the Pulgas Water Temple, built to celebrate this event. This large water system now provides water to San Francisco, and parts of San Mateo, Santa Clara, and Alameda counties.

Trail Planning

History

As the Peninsula became more urban, opportunities for walking, riding, and picnicking diminished. Then NO TRESPASSING signs and houses appeared where once you could climb a fence to walk or picnic. The counties began to recognize the recreational value of some of the steep canyons, hillsides, and once-cut-over lands.

In 1924 Santa Clara County acquired lower Stevens Creek Canyon, its first county park, which has been a favorite place for hiking and riding ever since. Also in 1924 the Spring Valley Water Company laid out 10 miles of equestrian trails near Lake Merced adjacent to northern San Mateo County, probably the earliest formal trails built on the Peninsula. According to a bulletin of the Spring Valley Water Company, “These trails were planned to give riders as great a diversity of scenery as possible while at the same time minimizing the danger of trespassing on Lake Merced, the golf courses and vegetable gardens.” To this day these concerns remain for trail planners as they seek routes through the countryside that will not conflict with the interests of farmers and property owners.

San Mateo County in the mid-1930s began requiring dedication of riding-trail easements as a part of land subdivisions to prevent loss of pre-existing trail links when land was subdivided.

The continued interest in trails, particularly for riding, was manifested in the late 1940s and early 1950s in a grand plan for a statewide California Riding and Hiking Trail system. In San Mateo County, with the support of horsemen’s associations and hikers and with some funding by the state, trails were laid out over easements through private property along the Skyline ridge, through the San Francisco and Bear Gulch watersheds, and along the right-of-way of Skyline Boulevard and Cañada Road. The California Riding and Hiking Trail was marked by posts with gold symbols of horseshoes and hiking boots. Regrettably, in time, a number of easements through private property lapsed and freeway building obliterated parts of the trail. But many miles of the trail survived, and San Mateo County’s trail from north of San Andreas Lake to Wunderlich Park and SkyLonda uses much of this same route.

The 1940s saw the acquisition of Huddart Park and the development of riding and hiking trails there. San Mateo County, with trail-club cooperation, laid out still more hiking and riding trails on road rights-of-way along Cañada, Whiskey Hill, and Portola roads through the present-day towns of Woodside and Portola Valley.

In a burst of trail-planning activity in the 1950s and 1960s, San Mateo County mapped over 400 miles of trails in the City/County Regional Plan for Parks and Open Space, adopted in 1968. Unfortunately, at that time neither the funding nor the support for trails was sufficient to bring these trails into being.

However, with funding from a federal pilot project to encourage trails in urban areas, three important trails were built in 1969—the Waterdog Lake and Sheep Camp trails from Belmont to Cañada Road and the Alpine Road Hiking, Riding and Bicycle Trail.

In the 1970s, with renewed appreciation for the remarkable potential for hiking and riding trails in the Peninsula mountains and foothills, conservation, hiking, and riding organizations pressed for specific programs and funding for trails. Voters in San Mateo County adopted a Charter for Parks establishing a special tax for park purposes, and Santa Clara County voters passed a park bond issue. In 1974 a gift of Wunderlich Park’s 942 acres of conifer forest and meadows provided hikers with many more miles of trails. The city of Palo Alto bought 1400 acres of hillside woodland, which have become the much prized Foothills Park. Other cities reserved canyons, streamsides, and hillsides for public use.

But the citizens of the Peninsula, still concerned with the rapid disappearance of open space and the slow pace of park acquisition, proposed by initiative a Midpeninsula Regional Park District. Northern Santa Clara County voters formed this district in 1972 and were joined by voters in southern San Mateo County in 1976, after which the name was changed to Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District (MROSD).

The District’s major purpose is to acquire and preserve foothill and Bayland open space to protect it from development, and to open it to public use consistent with protection of the environment. These lands provide protection for natural vegetation, wildlife, and areas of scenic beauty. The District’s goal is to help preserve a greenbelt of open space linking District lands with state and county lands. By 2004 the District had acquired almost 49,000 acres in San Mateo and northern Santa Clara counties and a corner of Santa Cruz County. This greenbelt is creating a system of regional trails with outstanding opportunities for hiking, riding, bicycling and running. This large aggregation of open space lands creates important wildlife corridors.

In 2004, the District voted to expand its boundaries to the edge of the Pacific, an area of 220 square miles in San Mateo County (its current district encompasses 330 square miles in northwestern Santa Clara and southwestern San Mateo County). Shortly a group circulated a petition to repeal the action. The petitioners needed 4071 signatures to qualify a ballot measure, but the elections office certified fewer than 3450. On September 3, 2004, Judge Carl W. Holm issued a three-page ruling that rejected annexation opponents’ claim that they had gathered enough qualifying votes. He also lifted a temporary restraining order, dated July 13, that halted the annexation process launched in April.

This coastside protection program, endorsed by farmers, conservationists, and business leaders, is designed to protect the region’s unique rural and agricultural heritage. The MROSD gave up its right to eminent domain in this area and agreed only to buy from willing sellers. The District will soon conduct workshops and develop a process needed for democratic representaton of Coastside residents in the open space district.

In 1994, the voters in southern Santa Clara County formed the Santa Clara County Open Space Authority (SCCOSA), a special district with a purpose similar to that of MROSD. It has purchased several parcels, one of which is open to the public—the Boccardo Open Space.

The Peninsula Open Space Trust, a nonprofit land conservancy, takes another approach to open-space acquisition. The Trust is dedicated to private and public preservation of open space in San Mateo and Santa Clara counties. Organized in 1977, the Trust has protected over 55,000 acres through purchase, gift and provision of local, private matching funds for public projects.

In 1995 the Santa Clara County Board of Supervisors adopted a Trails Master Plan, which was the product of several years’ work by citizens’ committees and commissions. This plan identifies 522 miles of trails and trail corridors that in the future will link the county’s urban areas and parks and connect with trails in adjoining counties.

San Mateo County’s Trails Plan was adopted by the Board of Supervisors in March 1990; a revision was drafted in 1995 and approved and made part of the County’s General Plan in 2002. This plan proposes a system of trails that would link county parks to other public parklands in this county and in adjacent counties.

Pressure for trails sparked state legislation for funding major trails to link state and county parks. Growing interest in regional trails led to bold programs initiated in 1987 for two Bay Area trail systems—the San Francisco Bay Trail and the Bay Area Ridge Trail. Statewide citizen action has spearheaded planning for the Coastal Trail and the Anza Trail.

Hostels and Overnight Camping

As long-distance trails take shape, more camping and hostel facilities will be needed. In the area covered by this guide, camping by reservation is possible at many county and state parks in the mountains and at the beaches in the western part of the county. See Appendix I for a complete list and Appendix III for addresses and phone numbers. Backpack camps on Black Mountain in Monte Bello Open Space Preserve and in Butano State Park are available by reservation. Some campsites are reachable by long trails from the Bayside, such as the Hickory Oaks/Ward Road Trail from Long Ridge OSP to Portola Redwoods State Park. The Hikers’ Hut in Sam McDonald County Park and the Jack Brook Horse Camp in Sam McDonald Park are also available to groups by reservation with San Mateo County Parks Department.

Hidden Villa Hostel at the base of Black Mountain in Los Altos Hills, the first and oldest hostel in the West, is open September through May, but closes in summer to accommodate a youth camp. Welch-hurst Hostel in Sanborn-Skyline Park and the Montara and Pigeon Point Lighthouse hostels provide accommodations for travelers year-round. Be aware that most hostels close from 9:30 A.M. to 4 P.M. daily. Hidden Villa Hostel closes from 11 A.M. to 4 P.M.

Trail Building and Maintenance

The success of trail programs depends to a great extent on careful operation, good maintenance and citizen cooperation. Various organizations, including the Santa Cruz Mountains Trail Association, Scouts, Sierra Club, the Trail Center, school groups, MROSD Preserve Partners, and San Mateo County volunteers, are making valuable contributions in trail building and clean-up projects. They also perform an important role in disseminating trail information and promoting a sense of stewardship for public land and respect for private property. See Appendix III.

Long Distance Trails

Four long Bay Area trails include segments in the area covered by this guidebook. With the completion of more than 267 miles of the proposed 400-mile Bay Area Ridge Trail and 251 miles of the San Francisco Bay Trail, users already have an unparalleled opportunity to explore our region at its highest elevations on the ridgetops and at sea level along the San Francisco Bay. Local pathways, like spokes of a wheel, will eventually connect our communities with both these encircling trail systems.

The Bay Area Ridge Trail is being developed by the Bay Area Ridge Trail Council working with the National Park Service, state and local park departments, regional open-space districts, and water agencies, and has completed 267 miles. In the area covered by this guide, it will link Peninsula trails from the Golden Gate National Recreation Area in San Francisco through San Mateo County’s mountainside parks to Saratoga Gap. Already more than 44 miles of trail in this corridor are completed; only a few gaps remain.

The San Francisco Bay Trail is being implemented by the Association of Bay Area Governments, the Metropolitan Transportation Commission, and the nonprofit San Francisco Bay Trail Project. At the time of this guide’s publication, 251 miles of trail are in place, 43 miles of which are in San Mateo County.

The Coastal Trail along the San Mateo County Coastside, part of a Pacific Coast Trail from Canada to Mexico, is being implemented by federal, state and local jurisdictions. Local citizens assist in planning, implementation and trail maintenance. Many sections are completed and are described in the San Mateo Coast Beaches section of this book. At this writing there are 42 miles of trail completed.

The Anza Trail, a National Historic Trail, follows the path of Captain Juan Bautista de Anza on his quest to find a land route from Mexico to San Francisco in 1776. Now local agencies, under the auspices of the National Park Service, are marking this trail. Handsome signs along Highway 85 indicate that the trail goes somewhere nearby.

For more information on these ongoing projects, see Appendix III.

Information for Trail Users

The main purpose of this guide is to describe trips through our parks and preserves, giving a detailed account of each trail and information on elevation change, terrain, orientation, trip distance, and hiking time. The authors have drawn on their own experience of hiking on all the trails in this guide. Their enthusiasms are, of course, subjective, but directions, trail distances, and details of natural features are intended to be objective and concise.

Travel times are based on a moderate hiking pace, which averages about two miles an hour, taking into account the difficulty of the terrain and the elevation gain. Trip distances are stated as one way, loop, or round trip. Trip times are those required to complete the trips as described. Of course, time for bicyclists or equestrians will differ from that for hikers.

Figures for elevation change tell the vertical footage gained or lost from the start to the highest or lowest point of the trip. These figures do not include minor elevation changes along the way. When the outward leg of a loop or a round trip is uphill, the elevation change is given as a gain; then, of course, the return leg will be an elevation loss. Conversely, when the outward leg is downhill, the elevation change is given as a loss.

To estimate the time required for a trip where the cumulative gain is more than 1000 feet or where there are steep climbs within a short distance, the authors used an old hiking rule: for every 1000 vertical feet gain, add ½ hour to the time that would be required on level ground.

Trails for Different Seasons and Reasons in Appendix I groups trails for a variety of purposes and situations, from long hikes and steep mountain climbs in large parks and preserves to strolls on gentle paths past tidal marshes and ocean beaches. These suggestions may help those unfamiliar with the Peninsula and its Coastside to find a suitable trail or perhaps inspire seasoned hikers to try new trails in our parks and open-space preserves. It is not an exhaustive list. Users can add their favorites.

Every effort has been made to make this guide up-to-date, but new parks and preserves opening in the future undoubtedly will provide new trails.

Maps

On the Map of Peninsula Trails in the beginning of this book, the general locations of parks, preserves, and watersheds are shown keyed to three sections that correspond with the table of contents—Northern, Central, and Southern

Peninsula—as delineated by the three major roads crossing from Bay to Coast. An enlarged map precedes each of these three sections in the text., and a map also accompanies each park or preserve. Separate maps of the San Francisco Bay Trail and the Coastal Trail in San Mateo County precede those sections of the book and are presented from north to south.

Individual maps of all the parks and preserves, specially prepared for this book, show trail routes and entry points, main natural features, elevations, park facilities, and parking areas for cars and horse trailers. These maps are a valuable reference for hikers, runners, bicyclists, and equestrians, as well as for those who wish to picnic or just relax in public recreation sites. Although many parks and preserves offer trails maps, these are not always available. To secure more information, leaflets, and maps, and free docent-led walks and tours in MROSD preserves, federal, state, and county parks, write, phone or visit the agency’s website listed in Appendix III.

In addition to these public agencies, the Trail Center is a volunteer organization that serves as a source of information about local trails and trail activities. Among publications available are a four-county parks map and a trail map of the southern Peninsula, now available through Wilderness Press.

Excellent topographic maps are available from the United States Geological Survey headquarters and from many sporting-goods stores. The western district headquarters of the USGS is at 345 Middlefield Road, Menlo Park. The map sales and information office, Building 3, a fascinating place worth a trip in itself, is open from 8 A.M. to 4 P.M. USGS maps are published in a 7.5-minute series. Some local trails are shown on these maps, but it is the topographic information that is of particular interest to the trail user—contours and natural features, such as wooded areas, clearings, creeks, lakes, and mountains. Although topo maps are not necessary for using the trails in this guide, they can add to your understanding of the terrain. After you have learned to read the contour lines, you can visualize the shape and elevation of the land they represent. Then you can tell by the spacing of the contour lines whether the grade on the trail will be steep or gentle.

The area of this guide is covered by quadrangles of the 7.5-minute series, listed here from north to south: San Francisco South, Montara Mountain, San Mateo, Half Moon Bay, Woodside, Pigeon Point, Palo Alto, Mindego Hill, Cupertino, La Honda, San Gregorio, Big Basin, Franklin Point, and Año Nuevo.

At some sports shops, one can print parts of or full-size topo maps on waterproof paper for a price somewhat higher than the USGS charges.

Trail Rules, Etiquette, and Safety

Park and open-space preserve regulations are few, but they are important. Based on common sense, they are necessary for your own safety, the protection of the parklands, and to preserve the beauty of the natural setting.

 All plants, animals, and natural features are protected. Leave them undisturbed for others to enjoy.

 Stay on the trail. Shortcuts across trail switchbacks break the trail edge and accelerate erosion.

 Don’t smoke on the trail, and build no fires except where permitted in established fireplaces.

 Firearms and bows and arrows are prohibited.

 Hours: generally open 8 A.M. to dusk; MROSD preserves open dawn to dusk.

 Fees for some state and county parks; subject to change.

 Trail closures: in wet weather trails often are closed to bicyclists and equestrians. Newly constructed trails are temporarily closed until treads harden.

 Dogs: prohibited in all San Mateo County parks. In Santa Clara County dogs are prohibited except in some parks that permit dogs on a short leash in picnic areas, but never on trails. Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District permits dogs on leash in some preserves; call for information. State parks allow dogs on leash in campgrounds but not on trails.

 Hikers and runners: yield to equestrians.

 Bicyclists: ride on designated trails only. Observe closure signs. Helmets required in all parks and preserves. Speed limit in MROSD preserves and Santa Clara County parks is 15 m.p.h.; 5 m.p.h. when passing. Yield to equestrians and hikers.

 Equestrians: observe closure signs. Indicate to other users when it is safe to pass.

 Safety: travel with a companion rather than alone. See list of organizations offering group trips in Appendix III.

Some Hazards For Trail Users

Poison Oak: This plant, Toxicodendron diversilobum, is widespread through most of the Peninsula hiking country. You don’t need to remember its Latin name, but you should learn to recognize this ubiquitous plant with its three-lobed leaves. A pretty cream-colored flower cluster is followed by white berries. It looks different according to the season and the environment where it is growing. In spring its gray branches send out reddish buds, then shiny, young, light-green leaves. In autumn it has rosy red leaves that are brilliant in the woods and along the roadsides. To touch the twigs or leaves is to court the outbreak of an uncomfortable, itchy, blistering, long-lasting rash.

Avoid it! Wear long sleeves and long pants for protection; bathe with cool water and soap when you get home. If you have unavoidably brushed against some poison oak, wash the area in the nearest stream or even use water from your canteen. Investigate new pharmaceutical products designed to prevent contamination and others to remove its effects.

Rattlesnakes: Another, and far less common, hazard is the rattlesnake. It has a triangular head, diamond markings or dark blotches on its back, and from one to ten or more rattles (segments) on its tail—it adds a new rattle each time it sheds its skin. It is the only poisonous snake native to our hills; it inhabits many hillside parks, though it is rarely seen. The rattlesnake will avoid you if it possibly can. Just watch where you put your feet and hands, and stay on the trails.

Lyme Disease: A potentially serious illness can result from the bite of the Western Black-Legged tick, a ¹⁄4-inch-diameter insect. Ticks brush off onto you from grasses and trailside bushes. Wear long pants, tucked into boots or socks, and a long-sleeved shirt.

Mountain Lions: Sightings of these shy, native residents of wild lands have become more frequent due to increased use of their habitat by people. A mountain lion is about the size of a small German shepherd, with a thick tail as long as its body. It is recommended that trail users stand facing any mountain lion they encounter, make loud noises while waving their arms, and not run away.

Bobcats: Although generally shy, if aroused they can be treacherous. They are about twice the size of a house cat with 6-inch-long tails.

Feral Pigs: Imported from Europe, these animals interbred with domestic pigs and have spread over many acres of wild lands since their introduction for hunting in the 19th century. While generally not dangerous to humans, they can be fierce when cornered. If you see large areas of meadows and open forest that appear to have been tilled, you are proably seeing the work of these animals.

Coyotes: Their numbers are increasing; frequently sighted in open grasslands; seem curious about humans and have been known to attack humans.

Remember, wild animals normally avoid humans, if possible. Trail users must be careful not to entice them closer by giving them food, as they may lose their natural fear and cause problems.

Weather

The vagaries and variety of our local weather require some flexibility in planning hikes. Summer weather can vary from day to day, even from hour to hour where coastal fogs and winds influence the temperature. The Coastside, Skyline ridge and the northern Peninsula are often windy and dripping with fog in summer while the rest of the Peninsula is mild and sunny. In other seasons the mountains can be drenched in rain when the Bayside cities are merely cloudy. Fall, winter, and spring are best on the Coastside, when fresh breezes bring clean air and crystal visibility.

Summer and fall bring sunny, hot days to the southern Peninsula. Midday hiking is best then in the cool, forested canyons. In any season, south- and west-facing slopes are the warmest. A winter hike on such slopes is delightful on a sunny day.

What To Wear

Walking is surely the prime low-cost sport. The rewards are unrelated to the outlay for equipment.

The only essential is comfortable, sturdy footgear. The many available walking and running shoes with good treads are fine for Peninsula trails. Some hikers still prefer boots for the protection they give on rough terrain and on wet trails.

Clothing—dress like an onion, so you can peel off layers as needed:

 sweater and windbreaker

 long-sleeved shirt and long pants for protection from sun and poison oak

 hat for shade in summer and a scarf or warm cap for cold and windy days.

 all-purpose bandana or scarf

Water—an essential; no drinking fountains on trails; stream water is unsafe to drink

 snack or lunch

 this guidebook

 day pack—for extra clothing, lunch, and water

And, if weight is not a problem:

 binoculars for birds

 magnifying glass for flowers, lichen, and insects

 flower or bird guide