Читать книгу The C2C Cycle Route - Jeremy Evans - Страница 12
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Downhill past Grove Rake Mine along Redburn Edge – the finest downhill section on the west–east C2C (Stage 4)
Do you like beautiful scenery, excercise and plenty of fresh air? Are you interested in Britain’s remarkable industrial heritage? Do you enjoy visiting village pubs and cafés? Are you up for cycling up and down a few hills? If the answer is yes, you will love riding the C2C.
The Coast to Coast (C2C) is a superb 219km (136 mile) cycle route across northern England that connects the country’s Irish Sea and North Sea coasts. It passes through the Lake District and Pennines, home to some of Britain’s most dramatic landscapes. In addition to endless wonderful views across the countryside, the C2C offers a great selection of interesting places to visit. The route is accessible and enjoyable for bike riders from novice to expert, including children of most ages. It is equally enjoyable as a leisurely tour for recreational riders or as a full-energy ride for those who enjoy ‘cycle sportif’.
The C2C first opened as a formal route in 1994. It is a cyclist’s version of Alfred Wainwright’s famous Coast to Coast Walk, but follows a shorter route with considerably fewer hills. The route was designed by Sustrans (see Sustrans information) and is now Britain’s most popular long-distance cycle route. Thousands of cyclists complete the C2C each year, but there is plenty of space and it never feels crowded.
Great care has been taken to make the C2C as cycle-friendly as possible. Approximately half the route follows dedicated cycle paths or off-road tracks that are traffic-free. Most of the other half follows quiet roads that are particularly well suited to cycling. There are a few short sections on busier roads in built-up areas, but these are relatively stress-free.
In this guide the route is described over five days – an ideal pace for leisure cyclists and families that allows time for detours to look at places of interest along the way. (Shorter itineraries are also included for those who enjoy a challenge.) The detailed route information, accompanied by OS maps, is suitable for cyclists of all levels, and the guide offers lots of help with planning and undertaking your C2C adventure.
The final traffic-free part of Stage 1, with the outskirts of Keswick directly ahead
Why do it?
The route can easily be completed in five days by those with a basic level of fitness. If you cycle further and faster, it’s possible to ride from sea to sea in four, three or two days – and, for the super-fit, even in one day. Riding the route is an excellent way to get trim and healthy – you will feel in great shape by the end of it.
Most of the C2C route follows traffic-free cycle tracks or quiet minor roads, allowing you to enjoy cycling with minimum stress or danger from traffic. Excellent signposting makes the route easy to follow with straightforward route planning using a conventional map or GPS.
There is plenty of accommodation along the way, which makes planning an itinerary easier, as well as a very good choice of places to eat and drink. In addition, there are bag-carrying services operating along the route and companies offering package trips, including accommodation (see ‘Specialist C2C companies’).
The C2C is a great challenge. You will feel justly proud of the achievement of cycling from sea to sea!
Choosing your route
The route in this guide is described from west to east, as this is often held to be the ‘best’ direction in which to cycle the C2C – however, the choice is yours (see ‘West to east or east to west?’, below, and a summary of the east–west route in Appendix D).
The C2C has two different start and finish points at both ends of the route – a choice between Whitehaven or Workington on the west coast and Tynemouth or Sunderland on the east coast.
Cyclists riding the C2C for the first time would be advised to start from Whitehaven (or nearby St Bees) and finish at Tynemouth. However, consider starting from Workington if you’d prefer less hill-climbing on the way to Keswick, and finishing at Sunderland (if you don’t mind missing Newcastle) if you’d prefer to avoid the somewhat tortuous final section to Tynemouth.
West coast
On the west coast, the routes from Whitehaven or Workington to Keswick are very different.
Whitehaven is the most popular start point for the C2C, leading directly to the Lake District, where it passes between Loweswater, Crummock Water, Bassenthwaite Lake and Derwent Water. There are two significant climbs to Kirkland and Whinlatter, but the reward is great downhill riding and wonderful views. But Whitehaven is not a perfect place to start. The route out of the town is well signposted, but probably the most unattractive part of the whole C2C.
St Bees provides an interesting link route to the C2C. This is the start of Wainwright’s sea-to-sea walking route. The place is much smaller and quieter than Whitehaven, just a few miles to the south – one stop away on the train with a good connecting route provided by Hadrian’s Cycleway (NCN Route 72). St Bees is a pleasant place to stay overnight before starting the C2C cycle route, which gives cyclists the opportunity to walk up to St Bees Head and dip their feet (or front tyre) in the Irish Sea. Starting at St Bees is recommended for those who don’t mind missing the official start of the route.
Workington, to the north, provides a very different route to Keswick via Cockermouth, staying north of the Lake District until it approaches Bassenthwaite Lake. It’s less spectacular than the Whitehaven–Keswick route, mostly because there are fewer big hills. Cockermouth is an interesting small town to visit or stay at en route to Keswick, and the final section towards Bassenthwaite Lake is particularly good for those who enjoy off-road trails. Major floods during November 2009 caused extensive damage in Workington and Cockermouth, but Sustrans and the local authorities have done an excellent job keeping the C2C route open for cyclists.
Viaduct on the outskirts of Cockermouth, on the way from Workington to Keswick (Stage 1b)
Maryport, 9.5km (6 miles) along the coast to the north of Workington, provides an interesting option for an overnight stay for those who start (or finish) the C2C at Workington. It’s a smaller and more attractive town than Workington, with fine views across the Solway Firth. Hadrian’s Cycleway provides a link route to Workington, or there is a direct connection by train.
East coast
On the east coast cyclists also have a choice of finish (or start) routes in either Sunderland or Tynemouth (the route divides at Consett).
The route to Sunderland is slightly shorter and potentially a little faster than riding to Tynemouth. At least 90 per cent of the distance is traffic-free, following cycle paths and disused railway tracks. Most of the route is pleasant enough, but unremarkable, until the final few miles alongside the River Wear, which provides a superb finish to the C2C. The nearest rail link is Sunderland central station, connecting with the C2C via a signposted cycle lane.
The route to Tynemouth is a little longer, but more interesting. It’s virtually all traffic-free and very enjoyable riding between Consett and Newcastle, where the riverside waterfront is extremely attractive on a fine day. Cyclists might expect to complete the C2C with a pleasant ride along the River Tyne from Newcastle to Tynemouth, but the river is seldom seen at all. Instead the route gets fiddly and can be a little frustrating, particularly with diversions caused by roadworks, which should improve over time. The last part of the route, cycling round the marina and harbour towards the finish, is suitably fine. The Metro railway has a station within easy reach of the Tynemouth start/finish of the C2C, but it refuses to carry bikes (unless they are ‘folders’), which is a major let-down at the end of Britain’s premier cycle route. Instead, cyclists have either to ride back to Newcastle, where the main railway station is not particularly easy to find, or to take a taxi (the standard ‘black cab’ will take two bikes and riders).
The cycle path on the Tynemouth option follows the River Derwent through to the River Tyne (in the background) (Stage 5b)
Alternative routes between Keswick and Sunderland
One of the delights of the C2C is that throughout its length there is a choice of routes. In addition to the alternative start and finish points, there are some interesting variations on the central section from Keswick to Consett.
Stage 2
Some 9.5km (6 miles) west of Keswick, the C2C turns north towards Beckside and Mungrisdale on the eastern side of the Lakeland fells, after which the main route turns south to follow the side of the busy A66 trunk road. The alternative route follows quiet roads north-east and south-east from Mungrisdale.
A new optional southern loop is routed via Ullswater, Askham and Lowther Estate, rejoining the main C2C to the east of Penrith.
Looking westwards from the bottom of the off-road track above Selah Bridge – take time to stop and enjoy the superb views (Stage 3)
Stage 3
At Four End Lane, 9.5km (6 miles) from Langwathby, an off-road route leads due west to Selah Bridge and is recommended for mountain bikers. Road bikers are better off on the longer road route via Renwick, which is very pleasant.
At Selah Bridge, the road route climbs up to meet the A686, from where there is a steady climb to Hartside Café at 580m. Grinding uphill while being overtaken by cars and lorries is not much fun, and in dry, fine weather a better alternative is to use the off-road track that leads uphill from Selah Bridge. It gets steep and requires a long push, but affords magnificent views.
Alston is several kilometres off the C2C route and well worth a visit. It is signposted as Route 68 at Leadgate and follows the River South Tyne valley to the centre of the old town.
Between Garrigill and Nenthead there is the option of riding on- or off-road. Both routes involve a long climb. The road route is very quiet and pleasant, as long as it doesn’t involve riding into a head wind. The off-road route is almost twice the distance, with some parts steep and rough, but it is recommended for keen mountain bikers who have plenty of time.
Start of the track that leads up towards the final high point at Bolts Law (Stage 4)
Stage 4
At Nenthead an alternative off-road route leads directly to the top of Black Hill – the highest point of the C2C. It’s shorter than the road route, not too steep or rough, and a very good choice for those who prefer to avoid traffic and tarmac.
At Rookhope there are two routes to Parkhead. The road route is slightly longer and goes via Stanhope, which is an interesting village. The main drawback is that it ends with just over 3km (2 miles) of riding quite steeply uphill on the B6278, which may be busier than cyclists would wish with traffic. The off-road route crosses grouse moors run by the Stanhope Syndicate. It is a superb ride with magnificent views, but the route is closed occasionally during the grouse-shooting season (12 Aug to 10 Dec). This is indicated by signs at either end but the closure dates are not publicised in advance.
Taster Route 4
The Old Coach Road provides a superb off-road route leading eastwards from Castlerigg Stone Circle near Keswick, which links via minor roads to the main C2C route at Greystoke (Stage 2). Some of the Old Road is steep and rough. It provides a far more dramatic view of the Lake District than the road route, but will probably take twice the time.
Stage 5a
A new optional route connects Consett to Sunderland in a southern loop via the cathedral city of Durham.
West to east or east to west?
West to east is generally regarded as the best direction to cycle the C2C for two reasons. First, the prevailing winds blow from the west, and, secondly, the hills are longer when approached from the east, and shorter (but also steeper) when approached from the west.
However, it is conditions on the day that really count. West to east is perfect if there are steady westerlies pushing from behind, but not so great if there is a strong easterly while crossing the Pennines, where cyclists can be very exposed to a hard grind against the wind. The truth is that strong winds are not much fun from any direction. Light winds are a cyclist’s best friend.
As to the hills, some are hard and long, but give a wonderful downhill ride in the opposite direction. Some hills are short and sharp, which makes them too steep for a really good downhill in the opposite direction. Again, the most important consideration is likely to be the prevailing weather, with contrary winds (and rain) transforming a steady hill climb into a struggle.
Nevertheless, there’s little doubt that the majority ride from west to east. This is worth considering for those who are riding the C2C on a busy weekend. Meeting large groups of cyclists on narrow tracks and lanes can be a bit unnerving, particularly if they are hammering downhill on blind bends. It’s probably safer to go with the flow.
A summary of the route from east to west appears in Appendix D.
When to go
The simple answer is, ‘When the weather is perfect’. That means blue skies to make the most of wonderful views, no rain, very light wind blowing in the direction you are cycling, and the temperature neither too hot or too cold (around 20–25°C should be near perfect for cycling).
The problem is that the Lake District is notoriously wet, and the high hills of the Pennines are very exposed to poor weather at all times of year. Cyclists have been forced to abandon the C2C due to extreme wind and rain during August, but they were very unlucky. November through to March is best left for experts seeking a winter challenge. Ice and snow are common hazards at this time of year, roads on the high hills may be closed, off-road sections may be waterlogged and very muddy, and short days leave little room for delays.
April through to October can be a wonderful time to ride the C2C, but beware that spring or autumn can also provide gale-force winds and unseasonably low temperatures for the time of year. Summer is the best time but good weather can never be guaranteed.
Perfect weather and superb cycling country as this C2C rider heads towards Allenheads (Stage 4)
It makes sense to check the weather outlook on the web. BBC Weather (http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather) provides five-day forecasts, updated every few hours, for principal towns along the route, including Whitehaven, Workington, Keswick, Penrith, Alston, Consett, Newcastle, Sunderland and Tynemouth. But unless the forecast is truly terrible – gales and non-stop rain – you should go ahead and enjoy the ride. It’s surprising how much of the C2C route is relatively well protected at low levels, particularly on some of the disused railway lines. It’s also surprising how quickly the rain can clear up and go away.
Do be aware, however, that summer is peak holiday season. The Lake District will be particularly busy, making it advisable to book hotels, B&Bs and camp sites well in advance. Away from tourist-traps such as Keswick, cycling the C2C is remarkably quiet.
Getting there and getting back
Train stations
The rail network does not do a great job of covering the C2C (much of the route is quite off the beaten track), but the following key places along the way have a rail link.
Carlisle links with Workington and Whitehaven on the west coast (but avoid rush-hour trains which are likely to be full)
Penrith and Langwathby both link with Carlisle, which has a link route (Route 7) with the C2C.
Newcastle Upon Tyne provides a high-speed link with London and the south, as well as a cross-country route to Carlisle.
Chester-le-Street (east of Newcastle) is within 1.5km (1 mile) of the C2C between Stanley and Washington, but has no dedicated cycle link.
Sunderland has a cycle link to the C2C and is within 3km (2 miles) of the start/finish, via Newcastle Upon Tyne.
For more information contact www.nationalrail.co.uk.
Taking bicycles by train
For cyclists planning to travel by train, it is vital to check that bikes can be taken on board, as some train companies have restrictions on this, especially at busy times. (On www.nationalrail.co.uk, go to the Train Companies page, select the train company you are travelling with and look at the Onboard Facilities section.) Where accompanied cycles are carried there is no charge. A comprehensive leaflet, ‘National rail cycling by train’ can be downloaded at www.nationalrail.co.uk.
National Rail has the following advice for cyclists travelling by train.
If a cycle reservation is required make it as far in advance as possible.
Cycles are not carried during periods of restriction.
Label your cycle clearly.
Cover your folded cycle.
Tandems, tricycles and bicycle trailers are not carried unless otherwise stated.
Unaccompanied cycles cannot be carried on any services.
Cycles must be carried in the designated area on trains and must not obstruct doors or aisles.
Cycles are carried at owner’s risk.
Getting home
It is important to plan what happens when you reach the end of the C2C. There are five likely options
ask someone to collect you from the finish
pre-book a train ticket for you and your bike
pre-book a minibus/baggage-transport service to return you to the start and collect your car arrange to have your car delivered to the finish
ride your bike back to collect your car from the start.
Motorised support team picks up the bikes at Nenthead, an interesting place to visit (Stage 3)
The train is relaxing after such a long ride and environmentally friendly, but for those with time, the last of these options is also highly recommended. The C2C links directly to the 300km (187 mile) Reivers Route (NCN Route 10) from Tynemouth to Whitehaven and into the 280km (174 mile) Hadrian’s Wall Cycleway (NCN Route 72) from Tynemouth to Ravenglass on the west coast, passing through Workington and Whitehaven. Cyclists who have reached the end of the C2C should be fit enough to take on either of these interesting routes. The Reivers provides a more hilly challenge through remote border country, while the Hadrian’s Wall route follows the famous Roman wall and forts of the Cumbria coast.
Other link routes
In addition to the Reivers Route and Hadrian’s Wall Cycleway, the C2C links to three other National Cycle Network routes.
Three Rivers – 264km (164 miles) connecting Middlesborough, Stockton, Hartlepool, Durham, Consett, Newcastle and South Shields
Coast & Castles South – 355km (221 miles) connecting Newcastle to Edinburgh via Berwick and Melrose
Lochs & Glens South – 425km (264 miles) connecting Glasgow to Carlisle (C2C link to Penrith) via Dumfries and Glenn Trool
The Penrith to Carlisle route also links with the Reivers Route (NCN10), both on-road and off-road (‘Taster routes’, Ride 5)
Planning your itinerary
Some people like to cycle the C2C in a day. A popular target for hot-riders is to complete the almost 225km (140 mile) route in under 12hrs, which requires an average speed close to 12mph. That may not sound fast, particularly compared to travelling by car, but anyone reading Dylan Noble’s report in ‘Planning your itinerary’, below, will appreciate the very serious challenge that a non-stop C2C represents.
Stretching the C2C over several days makes the riding a lot easier, and the main part of this guide describes a five-day itinerary, aimed at leisure cyclists. Although overall cost increases with each night’s accommodation, the advantage is that extra time allows more enjoyment of all that the route has to offer.
Plan carefully and set a sensible target for each day. Do not be over optimistic. It’s better to arrive too early than too late. Allow for delays due to bad weather and give yourself plenty of time to explore the most interesting places along the route, which are likely to include Cockermouth, Keswick, Alston, Beamish Museum and Newcastle.
A hard rider may be able to average 12–15mph on the C2C, but cyclists taking it easy, enjoying the views, stopping for snacks and riding on some of the alternative off-road sections are likely to have an average speed of 7mph or less. It sounds slow, but is not when you consider that the C2C is above all a dramatic route. And what’s the hurry? You are there to enjoy it.
Five days
Excellent timescale for leisure cyclists and families who like to take it easy, and a great choice for those who feel a little unsure about being able to complete the route.
Average distance of about 48km (30 miles) a day, allowing time to enjoy each stop-over or postpone cycling due to rain.
Four nights’ accommodation required, with the option of one or two extra nights if staying at one or both ends of the route.
Parkhead Station serves food, provides accommodation and welcomes cyclists in a delightful isolated location at the west end of the Waskerley Way (Stage 4)
In the five-stage route described in this guide, the fourth stage ends at Consett for ease of description because this is the point where the route splits before continuing to either Sunderland or Tynemouth. However, in practice, a good place to stay on the fourth night is The Old Station at Parkhead, about 8km (5 miles) short of Consett. It’s a pleasant place, and you can rest in the knowledge that your final day is all downhill. Cyclists taking this option may also choose to stop earlier on the third night, at the lively Pennine village of Alston, rather than at Nenthead, 8km (5 miles) further on.
Four days
Sensible timescale for regular cyclists and people with a good level of fitness who want to enjoy all the route has to offer.
Average distance of about 64km (40 miles) a day – quite a bit more demanding than the five-day itinerary.
Minimum of three nights’ accommodation, plus extra nights at either end.
Three days
Good choice for sporty, fit cyclists who enjoy a challenge.
Approximate average distance of 80km (50 miles) a day is demanding, with less time to enjoy stop-overs; cyclists likely to feel pretty tired at the end of each day.
Minimum of two nights’ accommodation plus extra nights at either end.
Two days
Only recommended for serious hard riders who enjoy a major challenge.
Average of more than 112km (70 miles) a day is very demanding, with little time to enjoy the attractions of the C2C. Except for very keen mountain bikers, cyclists will have to restrict themselves to riding fast on tarmac and miss out the optional off-road sections.
Minimum of one night’s accommodation, for some serious rest, plus extra nights at either end.
One day
Very high level of fitness and preparation required. This is purely a challenge ride.
No time to enjoy the views or any delights that the C2C has to offer slower cyclists.
But you’ll save on accommodation!
No itinerary is required – you ain’t stopping…
See Appendix B for some suggested 4, 3 and 2-day itineraries.
C2C day rides
Anyone living or staying near the route can ride the C2C as separate day trips. This has two advantages – cyclists can pick when and how far to ride, according to the weather, and may save a lot of money on accommodation.
This works well for cyclists with a support team, willing to drop and collect by car. Alternatively, circular and linking rides (see ‘Taster routes’) make it possible to enjoy part of the C2C and then return by bike or train.
THE C2C IN A DAY
In Whitehaven harbour: a wet start to a long day
Dylan Noble, a nutritionist and personal trainer, and Neil Robinson decided to ride the C2C in one day in 2010. Dylan tells the story of one hard day…
We planned to set off from the coast of Whitehaven, about an hour from my home near Penrith, at 7.30am on Friday 16 July. But, inevitably, last-minute preparations and alterations to provisions delayed our start to about 8.30am. Howling wind and heavy rain didn’t inspire much confidence, and Whitehaven harbour, where we suited up for riding, was unsheltered from the rain. So we didn’t hang around!
We struggled to find the cycle track that leads out of Whitehaven initially, but were soon impressed by the C2C cycle-path network on old railway tracks, where knocking off the miles seemed easy. Occasionally, these C2C paths turned into off-road sections on rocky tracks that would have been excellent and enjoyable on a mountain bike, but were a nightmare on road bikes, as we wanted to take all precautions to avoid punctures.
As we progressed through the journey, the weather improved steadily, which was fully welcome, since the start of the ride is still up there amongst ‘My top ten worst miles on a bike’. Cycling straight into a strong, wet breeze was not a nice way to start the day. But like any negative in life, it helped to challenge our commitment and made us appreciate good times to follow. And these we certainly had – on the best country roads the Lake District has to offer, cycling towards our destination with a brisk westerly tail wind to help us all the way. Great riding!
Highs and lows
The first major milestone was getting up and over Hartside. Once we arrived at this point, I think we made a rookie mistake and took a slightly over-extended stay, filling bottles and stocking up on flapjacks. After an approximate 15min pit stop the weather was once again not pleasant at all. We were both stone cold and pretty much soaked through. To make matters worse I’d forgotten to pump up my tyre, so we had to stop shortly after and fix that, with me thinking, ‘This is the coldest I’ve ever been on a bike.’ It definitely was the only occasion when I wished I was riding uphill instead of downhill! But our grumpy mood soon brightened, when we arrived at the base of the valley and were greeted by a first appearance of the sun, which was, well… indescribable!
There were further low points along the way, particularly since we repeatedly lost the route, but most notably when I raced off down a hill trying to reach maximum speed, only to be told at the bottom that we had missed a right turn at the very top! The climb back up wasn’t too much fun, but I have to commend Neil, who continued chasing me, even though he realised we were off-route less than halfway down that hill. Probably the lowest point that both of us distinctly remember was the seemingly never-ending climb out of Stanhope. I thought I could see the peak three times, only to discover a higher peak beyond.
Fortunately, the best point followed quickly after we reached the summit of this monster and could finally set eyes upon the finish line, with a clear view of the distant North Sea and eastern coastline dazzling in the late afternoon sun. All the pains and strains vanished, and we both continued riding with a surprisingly fresh pair of legs, only to suffer pain once again 5 miles later when the excitement wore off and a puncture set in. The final approach towards, and ride through, Sunderland seemed to take an age. But we finally arrived at the location we’d been dreaming of for the previous six weeks, in spite of almost being beheaded by youths casting fishing lines across the route just a few metres from the finish.
The end of the day
Having started pedalling at approximately 8.30am in the morning, we eventually stopped at around 8.45pm in the evening. Our time was just over the 12hr mark. I was a little disappointed to come so close, but without the misfortune of a puncture late in the ride and better knowledge of the route, I am confident we would have been able to break the 12hr barrier. Maybe next time. Overall, I would recommend a road bike if you want to ride the C2C as a challenge and complete the ride in good time. My next project is to ride the off-road coast-to-coast route on a mountain bike. Much rougher terrain will stretch the difficulty and probably make it a two-day trip, but it should still be fun!
Specialist C2C companies
Bag carriers
There is no need to carry lots of gear on your bike, as there are several specialist companies that will collect a cyclists’ bag each morning and deliver it to their next hotel, B&B or camp site by the time they arrive in the late afternoon. In addition, these companies can provide parking and return transport for yourself and bike at the end of the C2C in order to retrieve a car, or provide transport for anyone unable to ride a section due to illness or exhaustion. Prices are reasonable. For instance, the Sherpa Van Project charges £39 per bag (two minimum), or £79 (2013 prices) for baggage and return transport on a five- or seven-day C2C. (See Appendix C for some recommended companies.)
Organised C2C trips
A number of companies offer a complete C2C package, with itineraries of varying length, which includes accommodation and bag and bike transfers. The basic package includes pre-booked accommodation, with options of packed lunches, luggage transport, return transport and extra nights’ accommodation. They provide clear directions and large-scale maps, and can organise off-road parking for the duration of the trip, helping to make the C2C experience as stress-free and enjoyable as possible. C2C Hassle Free offers a different style of package based on staying three or four nights at Mains Farm Camp Site, almost halfway along the route where the Pennines get steep, with daily minibus transport to and from each section. (See Appendix C for recommended companies.)
Where to stay
For those cycling the route independently, it is advisable to book accommodation in advance for each night. There is a very good choice of B&Bs, hotels and camp sites, as well as pubs, cafés and restaurants all the way along the route.
Although some flexibility is lost by pre-booking, be aware that accommodation may be booked solid, and there is nothing more depressing than being turned away time after time. (It sounds like a great idea to stop riding when you’re tired, when it starts raining or when you simply like the look of a place, but it is not wise to rely on places being available.) Remember that the Lake District is a major tourist area. There are a lot of places to stay and a lot of people who want to stay in them. Further afield, there is less demand and consequently less accommodation available, making things just as difficult if you turn up at the door. Apart from that, it really helps to have a schedule and a target to keep you focussed on the day’s ride.
The internet has made it much easier to find accommodation (see Appendix C).
Camping
Pitching your tent in a camp site provides the cheapest accommodation on the C2C, but camping does have its disadvantages. Carrying a tent, sleeping bag and cooking gear adds a lot of weight and bulk to your bike. Putting up a tent is a hassle after a hard day on the saddle, particularly when the ground is sodden and it’s pouring with rain.
There is a limited choice of camp sites along the C2C route, which will dictate where and when you stop. It is vital to book ahead in the summer season. Wild camping is not permitted or possible.
Choosing your bike
The C2C route is almost evenly split between minor roads and traffic-free paths, tracks and cycleways. All the roads have well-maintained tarmac surfaces, suitable for full-on road-racing bikes. Surfaces on traffic-free sections may be tarmac, cinder, stones or even mud in wet weather. Some of the going is quite bumpy and rough, becoming extremely rough on some of the alternative off-road sections. The result is that the choice of bike involves a compromise.
Lightweight road racer These have lightweight frame, drop handlebars and skinny 23 or 25mm tyres. They are very fast on well-surfaced tarmac roads, but uncomfortable and bumpy on all but the smoothest traffic-free paths, with potential for punctures or the nightmare of a buckled front wheel. Many road racers have double chain rings, which require more physical effort to ride uphill than the triple chain rings fitted to most mountain, touring and hybrid bikes. The bikes are no good for carrying an overnight bag, and would have to be carried on rough tracks. If there is rain, expect to get very wet and messy without mudguards.
Mountain bike A lot of people appear to choose mountain bikes for the C2C, but maybe that’s simply because they only own a mountain bike. Nevertheless, these are a reasonably good choice, and perfect for riding on rougher surfaces – particularly super-rough tracks like the Old Coach Road out of Keswick, which will provide lots of fun on a full-suspension mountain bike. They are much slower than the road racer on smooth tarmac, due to greater weight and rolling resistance, with wide, knobbly tyres and smaller 26in wheels. For cyclists who choose to keep off the roughest tracks, it may be worth buying a set of smooth road tyres for a faster ride. A mountain bike should be easy to pedal uphill, with lots of gears, and easy to control downhill, thanks to a sit-back position with straight handlebars. It’s advisable to fit a mudguard over the front and rear wheels. Fitting a pannier rack to a mountain bike can be tricky, reducing the amount of gear you can carry. A single-wheel mountain-bike trailer would solve that problem, but pulling one wouldn’t be much fun on the C2C.
Touring bike This is a classic style of bike for long-distance touring. It looks similar to a road-racing bike with drop handlebars, which help to vary your riding position, but is heavier and more durable, with slightly wider wheels and tougher tyres, full-length mudguards, pannier racks for luggage and a great gear range for easy pedalling uphill. These bikes are a good compromise choice for all surfaced roads and many traffic-free paths on the C2C, although it may be a bumpy ride without suspension. Tyres are much narrower than a mountain bike, so they will have to be pushed on rougher tracks, which could be tiresome with a heavily laden bike.
Audax bike These are a specialist cross-over between a touring bike and lightweight road racer, fitted with mudguards and lights, and slightly more heavy duty than a racer, with wider gear ratios. Audax bikes are used for long-distance cycling events over 100, 200, 400 or even 1200km. They are a good choice for those who want to complete a fast C2C and spend as much time as possible on roads.
City bike A sit-up bike designed for pedalling around town and watching where you go is not a great choice for the C2C, owing to the extremely undynamic riding position for tackling hills, but it is still capable of getting from coast to coast.
Hybrid This cross-over between a touring, city and mountain bike, with lots of different permutations, is probably the best compromise solution for the C2C.
Recommended features
Riding position that gives the option of sitting up to enjoy the view or dynamic riding up and down hills.
Medium width 700x35mm tyres, such as Schwalbe Marathon Plus, to combine easy rolling with excellent grip, durability and puncture resistance, plus reasonable handling on rougher tracks. Wider diameter tyres give a softer, more forgiving ride on paths and tracks.
Lightest possible frame and components, making it reasonably easy to push the bike and ride up hills.
Front suspension is useful to soak up the bumps on a hybrid or touring bike, but not if it adds a lot of weight. Functional, lightweight suspension comes at a premium price.
Very good brakes. Either V-brakes with wire cables or hydraulic disc brakes. The latter are most efficient, but can interfere with fitting racks and mudguards, as well as being considerably more difficult for DIY maintenance.
A wide range of derailleur gears, with triple chain rings at the front and eight or nine cogs at the back, will tackle any hill on the C2C with ease.
A good set of full mudguards is vital for riding through mud, puddles and rain. Make sure they are securely fitted, with good clearance, so that mud and crud do not clog up inside.
A strong, secure rack mounted over the rear wheel is extremely useful, so that gear can be carried in two panniers with space for a rack bag on the top. Front panniers allow even more gear to be carried, at the cost of making the bike more cumbersome to handle and very heavy to pedal or push uphill.
Horizontal, flat handlebars, which may be a little swept back, help provide a dynamic riding position. ‘Riser’ handlebars, with the ends lifting upwards, make it possible to sit up and enjoy the view. It’s just a matter of finding the right compromise for your kind of riding. Comfortable grips are important. If they feel hard, wear a pair of cycling gloves with padded palms, which also take the shock out of a bumpy ride. 90° bar ends can be useful for changing riding position.
Riding 225km (140 miles) makes it important to have a reasonably comfortable saddle. They range from squidgy gel saddles that promise to be soft on your backside to hard leather – the choice is yours. Remember that for maximum pedalling power and comfort the saddle must be at the correct height, with the down-stroke leg almost (but not totally) straight at the bottom of the circle.
To achieve maximum pedalling power, use clipless pedals. However, a pair of simple ‘bear trap’ pedals suits this kind of ride very well, enabling cyclists to wear trainers or sandals and still storm up those hills.
Fitting the bike with lights is sensible, even for cyclists riding the C2C in mid-summer. You may get delayed and still be riding as dusk falls or get caught by thick mist on the high hills. In either case, it is important to be visible on murky roads. Except for cyclists who expect to ride in the dark, flashing LEDs provide an ultra-bright, low cost, lightweight solution.
A handlebar-mounted cycle ‘computer’ is optional, since the C2C map provides a very effective ‘mile counter’. It’s useful to be able to record your mileage, and it may be interesting to log average or maximum speed, but a significant disadvantage of using a computer is that it’s easy to get transfixed by those little numbers clicking off the miles, when you should be enjoying the views.
A bike with back panniers and a front rack bag outside the Cyclists’ Barn, Greystoke (Stage 2)
Bike hire
What if you don’t have a suitable bike or are flying in from overseas? No problem – you can hire one. For instance, Haven Cycles provides a dedicated hire service from premises in Whitehaven within 500m of the start of the C2C. A choice of alloy hybrid or mountain bikes is available for adults or children, fitted with mudguards, rear racks and a basic toolkit. Prices (in 2013) are £40 for up to three days then £5 per day thereafter. The company can also provide secure parking, baggage transfers, en-route cycle repairs and recovery service, cycle collection and transport back from the finish, and a minibus service with cycle trailer for Newcastle or Manchester airports.
Pedal Power offers a C2C bike-hire and baggage-transfer service from Amble in Northumberland, Ainfield Cycles of Cumbria offers a cycle-hire service that allows cyclists to collect a bike at the start and leave it at the finish of the C2C, and Darke Cycles provides cycle hire at the eastern end of the C2C in Sunderland. See Appendix C for contact details.
THE C2C ON FOLDING BIKES
Si Trickett and Steve Brindle, both aged 34, commute to work on Brompton folding bicycles with two-speed gears designed for city cycling. For a change of scenery, they decided to unfold their bikes and ride the C2C…
The Brompton is a unique British-manufactured bicycle, mainly used by commuters in combination with trains. Many cyclists consider them to be some sort of a joke bicycle, suitable only for slow riding on very short journeys. In fact, in spite of their small wheels Bromptons have a long wheelbase coupled with rear suspension to give a good ride. They can be used by the tall to the very small, have a range of gearing options from single to a wide-range six speed, and are fitted with an excellent luggage system. They also fold small, so fitting them into cars and onto trains is a doddle, including services where cycles are not permitted (such as the Metro at the end of the C2C in Tynemouth). We both have the Brompton S2L configuration designed for city commuting on fairly level roads, with flat handlebars and two gears – one for getting away from the lights and climbing fairly easy hills and one for zipping along the flat. The ratios are not entirely suited to powering up steep hills in Cumbria and the Pennines!
When we told people our plan to do the C2C on our two-speed Bromptons, we heard many a story about evil hills to climb along the route. It has to be said there were some very long and very steep climbs, sometimes both steep and long. We would also be first to admit that we needed lower gears, but still managed to grind up all the C2C climbs and carry our luggage with a decent amount of zig-zagging – with the exception of the very steep 200m stretch coming up out of Garrigill. Zig-zagging on this bit meant that we were just going back and forth across the road and not getting anywhere, so we got off and pushed! However, we both got a great sense of achievement from grinding past a group of mountain-bike riders, who were pushing their bikes uphill in spite of their low gears, having earlier taken the mickey out of us for doing the C2C ‘on giant kids’ bikes’. It’s not what bike you have, it’s what you do with it! Our next challenge is doing the Land’s End to John O’Groats route on the Bromptons, aiming to take eight days to complete the 1000 miles!
THE C2C ON UNICYCLES
A group of eight riders rode the C2C in August 2010, but cycling on two wheels wasn’t enough of a challenge. Peter Haworth outlines the challenge of unicycling the route and shares some tips…
An average 35 miles per day might not sound a big deal to many two-wheeled cyclists, but unicyclists generally ride a lot slower, with pedals driving the single wheel directly at a low 1:1 ratio. My comfortable cruising speed on the flat is around 9 or 10mph, so taking the fairly hilly terrain of the C2C route into account, this meant at least 5hrs in the saddle every day, with no chance of freewheeling, even on downhills. But, thanks to an amazing support team and a lot of perseverance, we did it, overtaking two-wheeled cyclists on the steep climbs but struggling (and, very occasionally, getting down) on the downhills, and raised a few thousand pounds for the British Heart Foundation on the way.
Tips for one-wheeled success
The best thing you can do to prepare is to check your equipment before you set out. Carrying sufficient spares and having the skills to use them was vital to our success, but a bit more preventive maintenance in the weeks before the ride would have made things go a lot more smoothly.
