Читать книгу Historic Paris - Jetta Sophia Wolff - Страница 15

Table of Contents

THE history of Paris and of France, from the earliest days of their story, is connected with the Palais de Justice on the western point of the island on the Seine. The palace stands on the site of the habitation of the rulers of Lutetia in the days of the Romans, of the first Merovingian and of the first Capetian kings. The present building, often reconstructed, restored, enlarged, dates in its foundations and some other parts from the time of Robert le Pieux. King Robert built the Conciergerie. Under Louis IX the palace was again considerably enlarged; the kitchens of St. Louis are an interesting feature in the palace as we know it. In 1434, Charles VII gave up the palace to the Parliament. It met in the great hall above St. Louis’ kitchens, and round an immense table there law tribunals assembled. For the French Parliament of those times was in some sort a great law-court. Guizot describes it as: “la cour souveraine du roi, la cour suprême du royaume.” Known in its earliest days as “Le Conseil du Roi,” its members were the grandees of the kingdom: vassals, prelates, officers of State, and it was supposed to follow the King wherever he went, though as a matter of fact it rarely moved from Paris. When, in course of time, it was considered desirable that its members should all be able not only to read but to write, the great nobles of that age declared they were not going to change their swords for a writing-desk and many withdrew, to be replaced by men of lesser rank but greater skill in other directions than that of arms, and who came to be regarded as the noblesse de la robe—distinct from la noblesse de l’épee.

LA TOUR DE L’HORLOGE, LES “TOURS POINTUES” DE LA CONCIERGERIE ET LE MARCHÉ AUX FLEURS

The big hall of that day and other adjacent halls and passages were burnt down more than once in olden times, and burnt down again in 1871, when the Communards wrought havoc on so many fine old buildings of their city. The most thrilling incidents, the most stirring events in the history of the Nation had some point of connection with that ancient palace—often a culminating point. And within those grim walls where the destinies of men and women of all conditions and ranks were determined, where tragedy held its own, scenes in lighter vein were not unknown in ancient days. Mystery plays were often given there, and every year in the month of May, reputed a “merry month,” even in the Palais de Justice, the company of men of law known as the “basoche,” planted a May-tree in the courtyard before the great entrance doors—hence the name “la Cour de Mai.” It is a tragic courtyard despite its name, for the Conciergerie prison opened into it; through the door of what is now the Buvette du Palais—a refreshment-room—men and women condemned to death passed, in Revolution days, while other men and women, women chiefly, crowded on the broad steps above to see the laden charrettes start off for the place of execution.

LA SAINTE-CHAPELLE

The Sainte-Chapelle, that wondrous piece of purest Gothic architecture, the work of Pierre de Montereau (1245–48) built for the preservation of sacred relics brought by Louis IX on his return from the Holy Land, vividly recalls the days when the palace was a royal habitation. Its upper story was in direct communication with the royal dwelling-rooms; the lower story was for the palace servants and officials. During the Revolution the chapel was devastated and used as a club and a flour-store. The Chambre des Comptes, a beautiful old building in the courtyard of the Sainte-Chapelle, was destroyed by fire in 1737. Its big arch was saved and forms part of the Musée Carnavalet (see p. 81). A chief feature of the chapelle is its exquisite stained glass.

The enlarging of the Palais in recent times (1908) swept away surrounding relics of bygone ages. Some vestiges of past days still remain in Rue de Harlay opposite the Palais, to the west—Nos. 20, 54, 52, 68, 74. The buildings of the boulevard du Palais and Rue de Lutèce, on its eastern side, arrondissement IV, are all modern on ancient historic sites.

Place Dauphine dates from 1607. It was built as a triangular place, its name referring to the son of Henri IV. In earlier ages, the site formed two islets, on one of which, l’îlot des Juifs, Jacques de Morlay, Grand Master of the Templars, suffered death by burning in 1314. A fountain stood on the Place to the memory of General Desaix, erected by public subscription, carted away in the time of the first Republic, and set up at Riom. Painters excluded from the Salon used to exhibit their work here each year, in the open air, on Corpus Christi day. Some of the houses still show seventeenth-and eighteenth-century vestiges. No. 28, now much restored, was Madame Roland’s early home. The writer Halévy died at 26 (1908).

The Quays of the island bordering the Palais north and south both date from the sixteenth century. Both have been curtailed by the enlargement of the Palais. On Quai des Orfèvres, the goldsmith’s quay, from the first the jewellers’ quarter, still stands the shop once owned by the jewellers implicated in the affair of the “Collier de la Reine.” The Quai de l’Horloge is still the optician’s quarter and was known in olden days as Quai des Morfondus, on account of the blasting winds which swept along it—and do so still in winter-time. The palace clock in the fine old tower built in the thirteenth century, restored after the ravages of the Revolution in the nineteenth, from which the quay takes its present name, is a successor of the first clock seen in France, set up there about the year 1370. There, too, hung in olden days a great bell rung as a signal on official occasions, and which perhaps rang out the death-knell of the Huguenots even before the sounding of the bell at St-Germain l’Auxerrois, on the eve of St. Bartholomew’s Day, 1572.