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Chapter 2

Your New Cleaning Arsenal

When I first changed my cleaning methods, I just started buying nontoxic brands at my local health-food store. It simply made sense to me because it’s always better to be safe than sorry. But my son’s allergy to detergents forced me to really get back to basics. And basics are what this chapter is all about.

I was amazed at how well these simple ingredients work. I found myself regaling my friends with stories of my latest baking-soda cleaning triumph. And when I discovered essential oils, I really started to enjoy things. It’s like aromatherapy every time I clean. Don’t get me wrong—cleaning is still something I’d rather avoid—but using homemade cleaners is as good as it gets.

“Toss out the chemicals and load up on vinegar, baking soda, lemons, and soap.”

Cleaner by Cleaner

Every green cleaner should have the following ingredients at home:

Liquid Soap

A mild liquid soap can be used to clean almost anything and it is an ingredient in most of the recipes I’ve listed at the end of this chapter. I recommend a true soap product, such as Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soap. A plant-based hand-dishwashing detergent from a reputable nontoxic brand, such as Seventh Generation, would be my second choice. Liquid soap may seem expensive at first, but it is concentrated, and a little goes a long way. A gallon seems to last forever.

Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate)

Baking soda is a naturally occurring mineral. I rely more on it than any other single cleaning ingredient. It removes odor, softens water, dissolves dirt and grime, scrubs soap scum, unclogs drains, cleans ovens, and more. It truly is the first “miracle” cleaning product. In fact, using baking-soda paste on my glass shower doors convinced me that I no longer needed any conventional cleaning products.

Borax (Sodium Borate)

Borax is a mineral similar in properties to baking soda, but it has a higher pH and is therefore stronger. Like baking soda, it can remove odor, soften water, and dissolve dirt. In addition, it has antifungal and antibacterial properties and can kill mold and mildew. Although natural, borax is toxic when ingested. Be sure to keep it out of the reach of children, and if you have babies or toddlers in the house, avoid using it to clean surfaces that they often touch. You can find it in the laundry-detergent section at the grocery.

Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate)

This mineral is highest on the pH scale and therefore has the most cleaning power and is also the most caustic. It is an effective abrasive cleanser and can boost the power of laundry detergents. Avoid using it on fiberglass, aluminum, no-wax floors, and delicate fabrics. It can irritate the skin, so use gloves when cleaning with it. Like borax, washing soda can be found in the laundry section at the grocery store.

White Distilled Vinegar

Vinegar is a mild acid that readily dissolves soap scum, cleans glass, disinfects surfaces, and is a perfect natural fabric softener. Always use distilled white vinegar because apple cider or wine vinegar can stain.

Lemon Juice

Another mild acid, lemon juice also has mild bleaching properties. It is a great stain remover and whitener. Fresh-squeezed lemon juice is best, but you can use bottled lemon juice in a pinch.

Oxygen Bleach

Powdered oxygen bleach is a great alternative to chlorine bleach and is friendlier to you and the environment because it is usually sodium percarbonate (a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and washing soda). It is especially useful for whitening laundry, removing stains from fabric, and cleaning grout. For maximum cleaning power, look for a content of 75 percent sodium percarbonate. Avoid those that have added artificial fragrance or dye.

Green Fact

Phosphates are banned from most cleaning products, but automatic dishwashing detergents have an exemption and can still contain up to 20 percent phosphates. Phosphates that end up in our waterways cause algae blooms that deplete oxygen and kill off fish.

Safety Rules

Even natural ingredients can be toxic if ingested, and some can be irritating to skin and eyes. Take the following precautions, especially if you have children in your home.

 Label the cleaner containers clearly, and store them out of the reach of children.

 Always tape the recipe for a homemade cleaner to its container. This is important in case a child ingests some and you (or a babysitter) need to tell the poison control center exactly what was in it.

 Only follow recipes from reputable sources. Many highly questionable recipes can be found online. Remember that “homemade” doesn’t always mean “nontoxic.”

 Be aware that some chemical combinations are hazardous—the classic example is bleach and ammonia.

 Be aware that some essential oils are not safe for small children and pets to inhale. Especially avoid using eucalyptus, wintergreen, sage, rosemary, and peppermint around children under the age of six.

Essential oils come in small bottles, but you use just a few drops at a time, so the bottles last a long time.

Club Soda

This beverage contains the mineral sodium citrate, which helps it loosen dirt and soften water so that it dries without water spots. It is great for cleaning glass and appliances and removing stains from fabrics. Avoid types marked “low sodium” because they may have a lower mineral content, which would make them less effective.

Essential Oils

Essential oils make cleaning with homemade cleaners a lot more enjoyable. Common oils include lavender, lemon, orange, peppermint, and tea tree. Essential oils can also be used for their disinfectant properties. Lavender and tea tree oil, in particular, have been shown to have antibacterial and antifungal properties. If you have pets or children under the age of six in your home, do a little research on essential oil safety first because you should avoid some essential oils. Refer to the website Using Essential Oils Safely (www.usingeossafely.com) for more information.

Aloe extract is commonly used in eco-friendly dishwashing liquids for its healing properties.

You can find essential oils at health-food stores or order them online. Look for oils that are labeled “100 percent pure” to avoid unwanted additives. If you are using oils for disinfecting purposes, spend a little more and get high-quality organic oils. Note: use metal, not plastic, spoons when measuring them.

All-Surface Spray

This spray is effective on everyday dirt and grime, wipes up without leaving any residue, and is safe to use on most surfaces. Use it to clean counters, walls, spills, and more. In many situations, warm water and a microfiber cloth are all you really need, but when you need to add a little more “oomph” to your cleaning, try the following recipe:

 2 teaspoons washing soda

 hot water

 ¼ teaspoon liquid castile soap

Put the washing soda into a spray bottle, fill the bottle with hot water, shake until the washing soda is dissolved, and then add the soap. Spray the mixture on surfaces, let it sit for a minute or two, and wipe off with a sponge or microfiber cloth.

Using Store-Bought?

Avoid spray cleaners containing ammonia, bleach, alcohol, butyl Cellosolve, petroleum-based detergents, dyes, and artificial fragrances.

All-Purpose Liquid Cleaner

This formula is ideal for washing floors, cars, and any other large jobs for which you would want to make a large batch in a bucket.

 1 gallon hot water

 1 tablespoon baking soda

 2 tablespoons liquid soap or detergent

Pour the hot water into a bucket and then add the baking soda and soap. (Adding the soap last prevents it from foaming too much.) Add 1 tablespoon of washing soda if you have heavy grease to remove, or add 1 tablespoon of borax if you also want to disinfect or kill mildew.

Using Store-Bought?

Avoid commercial liquid cleaners containing ammonia, bleach, alcohol, butyl Cellosolve, petroleum-based detergents, dyes, and artificial fragrances.

Glass Cleaner

Spray cleaners fill the air with a fine mist that you can’t help inhaling. Many of the commercial ingredients are irritating to the lungs. Also, conventional glass cleaners often include petroleum-based waxes, which leave a film on the glass.

 1 cup distilled white vinegar

 1 cup water

 ½ teaspoon liquid dish soap (optional)

 3–8 drops essential oil (optional)

Fill a spray bottle with vinegar and water and shake gently. If you don’t like the smell of vinegar, add essential oil. Soap is needed to dissolve the waxy buildup left behind by conventional cleaners, so once the buildup is gone, you can leave out the soap.

Using Store-Bought?

Avoid cleaners containing ammonia, butyl Cellosolve, naphtha, glycol ethers, wax, phosphoric acid, methanol, isopropyl alcohol, dioxane, petroleum-based detergents, formaldehyde, dyes, and fragrances.

Dishwasher Powder

This recipe works wonderfully for me, although you may need to prerinse your dishes because it’s not quite as effective on baked-on food. Citric acid (also called sour salt) is the key ingredient, and you can buy it in bulk online (see the Resources section) or possibly at places that sell canning supplies. This recipe also makes a great scouring powder.

 1 cup citric acid

 1 cup washing soda

 15 drops essential oil (optional)

Put all ingredients in a plastic container with a tight-fitting lid and shake well. Use about 1 tablespoon per load. Shake each time before using. If you have hard water, or have trouble with spots on your glasses, try adding two drops (and only two drops!) of liquid dish soap to each dishwasher load. Every dishwasher is different, so experiment with amounts until you find the right combination.

Using Store-Bought?

The hot temperatures of dishwashers vaporize toxins in detergents and release them into your kitchen. Chlorine, phosphates, and antibacterials are ingredients to avoid.

Laundry Soap

Making your own laundry soap is a great way to keep your family’s clothing chemical-free.

 1/8 cup liquid soap or detergent

 1 tablespoon washing soda

 ¼ cup vinegar (for rinse)

Add the liquid soap and washing soda to the washing machine as it fills with water. Try varying the amount of ingredients to fine-tune the recipe for your needs. If you’re using soap (not detergent), use a warm-water wash. Increase the amount of washing soda if your water is very hard. Add the vinegar to the rinse cycle (not the wash cycle!) to rinse away soap scum and soften clothes. Vinegar alleviates the need to use any fabric softener at all. For particularly dirty loads, or to whiten whites, use oxygen (nonchlorine) bleach. For more details, see the chapter on laundry later in the book.

Using Store-Bought?

Avoid conventional fabric softeners, chlorine bleach, and Fels Naphtha soap. Fabric softeners in particular have nasty chemicals that coat your clothes and directly contact your skin.

Mildew and Germ Killer

Use this spray in the kitchen and bathroom—anywhere that you want to kill germs. Preliminary research shows that it has broad antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties. Studies have shown that lavender oil is antibacterial as well. Essential oils can be found at most health-food stores or ordered online.

 2 cups water

 ¼ teaspoon (about 25 drops) tea tree oil

 ¼ teaspoon (about 25 drops) lavender oil

We cannot officially call this a “disinfectant” because it has not been classified as such by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Fill the spray bottle with water, and then add the tea tree and lavender oils. Shake gently before each use. Spray on surfaces and leave to dry—do not wipe. (See “Mold and Mildew” .)

Using Store-Bought?

Avoid disinfectants containing cresol, phenol, ethanol, kerosene, formaldehyde, ammonia, chlorine bleach, sodium hydroxide, and phosphoric acid.

Baking Soda Scrub

This is a great all-purpose mild cleanser that scrubs and lifts dirt at the same time. It’s effective for cleaning grout, stovetops, sinks, and just about anything else.

 2 tablespoons baking soda

 liquid dish soap or castile soap

Put the baking soda in a wide-mouthed container and mix in the liquid soap a little bit at a time until you have a nice, foamy paste. Work onto the surface you wish to clean using a rag, sponge, or brush (depending on how much abrasion you need). Let it sit for up to fifteen minutes (depending on if it is a light or heavy-duty job) and then spray with vinegar to rinse. If you are working with a surface that is sensitive to acids (such as tile), rinse off the vinegar immediately with water.

Using Store-Bought?

Avoid chlorine bleach, a common additive to powdered cleansers and soft scrubs. It irritates the lungs, skin, and eyes and is a major cause of poisoning in children younger than six.

Tools of the Trade

An important aspect of green cleaning is avoiding one-use, throwaway materials. Select quality cleaning tools and supplies that you can use more than once.

Natural Sponges

Choose sponges made of cellulose that are not treated with antibacterials (avoid ones with labels that say things like “resists odors”). Or opt for an even more natural sea sponge. Loofahs work great for abrasive scrubbing. Boil your sponge or throw it in the microwave for two minutes to disinfect it.

Microfiber cloths: These cloths can be found just about everywhere these days, and they are well worth buying. The unique weave of the cloth allows it to pick up dirt and grime with ease. Much of your everyday cleaning chores can be done with just a microfiber cloth and water. Special cloths formulated for glass can even be used without water. Just throw them in the washing machine when they get dirty.

Microfiber cloths and water can get many jobs done.

Cloth rags: Cotton rags are useful for almost any cleaning project. Use them in place of sponges—they last longer and can be thrown in the washing machine so that they don’t lie around, gathering bacteria. If your family doesn’t provide you with enough old clothes for rags, buy some. A kind of cloth diaper called “Chinese prefolds” makes a great absorbent rag that is perfect for cleaning spills.

Brushes: A large wooden brush with soft natural bristles is great for large cleaning projects. Toothbrushes are great for getting into nooks and crannies. (I recommend using new toothbrushes because the bristles of used ones are too soft to be effective.)

Bucket: Buy a high-quality plastic or stainless-steel bucket that will stand up to abuse and last for years.

Squeegee: A squeegee is great for washing windows, mirrors, and shower walls and doors. It saves you from having to wipe down glass with a rag or paper towel.

Timer: Often, a nontoxic cleaner works better if it’s allowed to sit for several minutes. An inexpensive kitchen timer will allow you to walk away and do another quick chore without forgetting to come back and finish the job.

Caddy: A plastic caddy is a convenient way to store essential cleaning products and carry them around.

Broom: Reach for your broom instead of the vacuum to do a quick cleanup—you’ll save energy and burn calories. Angled nylon brooms pick up dirt well although corn brooms are a more eco-friendly option.

Only When Needed

Disinfectants are hugely overused in the United States. There are only three home cleaning situations in which I believe that more than soap and water is warranted: 1) if you have an immune-compromised person in your home; 2) in the kitchen to protect against food-borne bacteria; and 3) to kill mold and mildew.

As an alternative to the Mildew and Germ Killer recipe, use white vinegar. It is perfect for everyday cleaning where you would like to disinfect a bit, too. Studies referenced by Heinz show that white vinegar kills 99 percent of bacteria, 82 percent of mold, and 80 percent of germs (viruses).

Dust pan and brush: If you’re going to use a broom you’ve got to have a dustpan. Look for one that is wide and sturdy, preferably made of metal.

Dust mop: A dust mop is great for quick floor cleanups. It picks up finer particles than brooms and doesn’t use electricity like a vacuum. It is also great for lifting cobwebs off walls and ceilings. Look for one that has a removable pad that can be machine washed.

Mop: There are many different types of mops. I prefer microfiber mops, but string and sponge mops work well, too. Be sure that you rinse them well and let them dry out thoroughly between cleanings; otherwise, they will attract mold. (For more information on mops and other floor-cleaning tools, see chapter 7.)

Vacuums: See “Buying a Vacuum” .

A caddy makes it easy to transport your cleaning supplies from one job to the next.

Steam Cleaning

A steam cleaner is a truly ideal green product. It cleans and disinfects with minimal effort and no chemicals. The only drawbacks are that it uses quite a bit of energy (about the same as a vacuum) and the high-quality ones are expensive. But if you have allergies or multiple-chemical sensitivity, you should consider one. A steam cleaner works great on showers, ovens, upholstery, countertops, and bare floors—and it kills bacteria, mold, and dust mites.

Look for a “vapor” steam cleaner that produces “dry steam.” Ones that have a boiler temperature of at least 245 degrees Fahrenheit (118 degrees Celsius) and a warranty on the boiler of at least three years are best. Make sure you choose one that will run at least an hour before it needs refilling.

Steam cleaners usually come with multiple attachments for cleaning different surfaces.

Small brush attachments allow you to remove mold and soap scum from tile with ease. They’re also great for stubborn stains, such as grout between tile.

A steam cleaner can be used in place of a mop to clean and disinfect any type of bare flooring, from tile to wood.

Buying a Vacuum

From a green cleaning perspective, the best vacuums are the ones that completely trap dust and dirt (and the allergens and chemical residues they contain) and prevent them from escaping back into your home. If you have allergies or multiple-chemical sensitivity, my recommendation is to buy the best vacuum you can afford. When researching vacuums, consider the following:

Canister or upright: If you have mostly carpeting and rugs, an upright is your best choice because it is usually more powerful and has a beater bar that agitates the carpet fibers and shakes the dirt loose. A canister is lighter and more maneuverable and is well suited to bare floors. Its long hose allows you to clean curtains, furniture, and stairs with ease.

Beater bars: If you have a mix of carpeting and bare floors, look for an upright that can be used on bare floors (usually by turning off the beater bar). Or buy a canister that comes with a “power head” motorized attachment for carpets.

Tools: If you plan on using attachments frequently, look for a model that allows you to store tools right on the vacuum.

Bags and filters: Consider the environmental impact of disposing of vacuum bags and filters. Be sure to ask what needs to be replaced before you buy. Bagless vacuums seem to be more eco-friendly, as long as they don’t require frequent filter changes. If you have a bag vacuum, be sure to empty the bag when it gets half full— after that, it starts to lose sucking power and you waste energy.

HEPA filtration: The standard for allergy sufferers is HEPA filtration. However, not all HEPA vacuums are equal. Consumer Reports found that the level of dust emissions depended as much on the vacuum design as it did the type of filtration. Look for models with a “completely sealed” HEPA system.

Durability: The longer your vacuum lasts, the fewer you’ll end up sending to the landfill. Look for a company with a reputation for durability that offers a long warranty (five years or more) on its products. Consider buying a commercial vacuum if you can afford one.

An unpowered brush attachment is the preferred tool for hardwood floors.

An upholstery attachment concentrates the suction so it can pull dust from textured fabrics.