| INTRODUCTION Kyoto and Its Heritage | 15 |
| TOUR 1: Ancient Lanes to Kiyomizu-dera | |
| Ninen-zaka, Sannen-zaka 21 | |
| Kiyomizu-zaka 23 | |
| KIYOMIZU-DERA | 24 |
| Nio-mon 26 | |
| Sai-mon 26 | |
| Sanju-no-to 27 | |
| Kyodo 28 | |
| Kaisan-do 28 | |
| Todoroki-mon 28 | |
| Benten-jima 28 | |
| Asakura-do 29 | |
| Hondo 31 | |
| Nishi-muki Jizo 32 | |
| Amida-do 33 | |
| Okuno-in 34 | |
| Otowa-no-taki 34 | |
| Jishu Shrine 34 | |
| Joju-in 35 | |
| Daiko-do 36 | |
| Nishi Otani Cemetery 37 | |
| Taiko-do 37 | |
| Haiden 38 | |
| Tour 2: The 1,001 Golden Kannon of Sanjusangen-do, the General, and the Potter | |
| SANJUSANGEN-DO | 41 |
| Hondo 43 | |
| Juichimen Senju Kannon 43 | |
| Kyoto National Museum 45 | |
| Hoko-ji 47 | |
| Mimizuka 52 | |
| Hokoku Shrine (Toyokuni Shrine) 54 | |
| Kawai Kanjiro House 57 | |
| TOUR 3: The Widow's Temple, Memento Mori, and the Gion Cart Temple | |
| THE YASAKA PAGODA AND HOKAN-JI | 62 |
| Gokoku Shrine 64 | |
| Ryozen Rekishikan 65 | |
| Ryozen Kannon 65 | |
| KODAI-JI: TEMPLE AND NUNNERY | 68 |
| Kangetsudai 70 | |
| Kaisan-do 71 | |
| Tamaya 71 | |
| Shigure-tei and Kasa-tei 72 | |
| Iho-an 72 | |
| Bunnosuke-jaya 73 | |
| Daiun-in 74 | |
| Choraku-ji 75 | |
| Higashi Otani Mausoleum and Cemetery 77 | |
| Maruyama Park 78 | |
| TOUR 4: The Realms of the Dead, the Dancing Saint, and Zen Beginnings | |
| CHINNO-JI AND THE SIX REALMS OF THE DEAD | 84 |
| Mukaegane 86 | |
| ROKUHARAMITSU-JI 87 | 87 |
| Hondo 90 | |
| Treasury 90 | |
| Ebisu Shrine 93 | |
| KENNIN-JI | 94 |
| Butsu-den 96 | |
| Marishiten Shrine 97 | |
| Zenkyo-an Sub-temple 97 | |
| YASUI KONPIRA SHRINE | 98 |
| TOUR 5: The Pleasure Quarters, the Floating World, and the Gion Shrine | |
| MAIN BUILDINGS AND MAJOR FESTIVALS OF THE YASAKA (GION) SHRINE | 103 |
| Ro-Mon 105 | |
| Haiden 105 | |
| Honden 105 | |
| Festivals and Ceremonies 106 | |
| The Pleasure Quarters 108 | |
| Kabuki 110 | |
| The World of the Geisha 111 | |
| Ichinki Ochaya 112 | |
| Pontocho Area 114 | |
| Shijo-dori Shopping Area 116 | |
| Teramachi 117 | |
| The Tokaido Road 118 | |
| Takaya Masyuke's Statue 119 | |
| Streets of Antiques 120 | |
| TOUR 6: Awata Palace, Fine Arts and Crafts, and the Martial Arts | |
| SHOREN-IN (AWATA PALACE) | 126 |
| Shinden 127 | |
| Kogosho 129 | |
| Shijoko-do 130 | |
| Gardens of the Shoren-in 130 | |
| Awataguchi 132 | |
| Murin-an Villa and Garden 133 | |
| Kyoto International Community Center 135 | |
| OKAZAKI PARK AND ITS MUSEUMS | 135 |
| Okazaki Park 135 | |
| Fujii Museum 136 | |
| Kanze Kaikan Noh Theater 136 | |
| Kyoto Municipal Art Museum 136 | |
| Kyoto Prefectural Public Library 137 | |
| Kyoto National Museum of Modem Art 137 | |
| Public Exhibition Hall 137 | |
| Kyoto Museum of Traditional Industry and Nishijin Design Center 138 | |
| Kyoto Kaikan 138 | |
| Kyoto Municipal Zoo 138 | |
| Martial Virtue Hall 138 | |
| HEIAN SHRINE | 139 |
| Daigoku-den 140 | |
| Honden 141 | |
| Heian Garden 141 | |
| TOUR 7: The Silver Pavilion and the Philosopher's Path | |
| Hakusason-so Villa and Garden 146 | |
| Jodo-ji 147 | |
| MAIN BUILDINGS AND SIGHTS OF THE SILVER PAVILION (GINKAKU-JI) | 148 |
| Hondo 151 | |
| Togu-do 152 | |
| Dojin-sai 152 | |
| Rosei-tei 152 | |
| Ginshaden 153 | |
| Kogetsudai 153 | |
| Kinkyo-chi 154 | |
| The Silver Pavilion 155 | |
| The Philosopher's Path 155 | |
| HONEN-IN | 156 |
| Kura 158 | |
| Hondo 158 | |
| Naijin 159 Fushimi Apartments 159 | |
| ANRAKU-JI | 161 |
| Hondo 163 | |
| Shoin 164 | |
| Daimobji Bonfire 164 | |
| Senoku Hakkokan 165 | |
| TOUR 8: Mikaeri-no-Amida and the Tiger and Cubs Zen Garden | |
| ZENRIN-JI/EIKAN-DO | 169 |
| Kakujudai 171 | |
| Kohojo 171 | |
| Juisi-den 171 | |
| Daihojo 172 | |
| Daiden 173 | |
| Mikaeri-no-Amida 173 | |
| Nomura Museum 174 | |
| NANZEN-JI | 175 |
| San-mon/Tenkanoryu-mon 178 | |
| Hatto/Butsu-den 179 | |
| Daihojo 179 | |
| Shohojo 180 | |
| Nanzen-in 182 | |
| Chosho-in 183 | |
| Tenjuan 183 | |
| Konchi-in 184 | |
| Hojo 185 | |
| Biwako-sosui Canal 186 | |
| TOUR 9: The Esoteric Temple and the Shimabara Pleasure Quarters | |
| TO-JI | 192 |
| Kodo 193 | |
| Kondo 196 | |
| Jiki-do 197 | |
| Kanjo-in 198 | |
| Mie-do/Taishi-do 198 | |
| Homotsukan 199 | |
| Steam Locomotive Preservation Hall 200 | |
| Shimabara, Western Pleasure Quarters 201 | |
| TOUR 10: A Temple of Momoyama Magnificence and an Abbot's Garden | |
| NISHI HONGAN-JI | 207 |
| Higurashi-mon 210 | |
| Sei-mon/Hondo-mon 211 | |
| Daishi-do/Goei-do 211 | |
| Amida-do 212 | |
| Kyodo 213 | |
| Shoro 213 | |
| Dai Shoin 214 | |
| Hiunkaku 219 | |
| Okujaku-tei 220 | |
| Kokakudai 221 | |
| Kocho-tei and Seirensha 221 | |
| Costume Museum 221 | |
| HIGASHI HONGAN-JI | 222 |
| Hondo-mon/Amida-do-mon 224 | |
| Taishi-do/Goei-do 225 | |
| Chrysanthemum Gate/Chokushi-mon 226 | |
| Oshin-den 226 | |
| Shosei-en 226 | |
| TOUR 11: The Immovable Kannon and the Nijo-jo | |
| ROKKAKU-DO | 233 |
| Hondo 234 | |
| Heso-ishi 235 | |
| Ikenobo Society and School of Flower Arranging 236 | |
| The Museum of Kyoto 236 | |
| Nijo Jinya 237 | |
| Shinsen-en 239 | |
| NIJO-JO | 241 |
| Bansho 246 | |
| Kara-mon 246 | |
| Ninomaru 247 | |
| Tozamurai—The First Building 248 | |
| Shikidai—The Second Building 249 | |
| Ohiroma—The Third Building 249 | |
| Kuro Shoin—The Fourth Building 251 | |
| Shiro Shoin—The Fifth Building 252 | |
| Fourth Building (Rear Rooms) 253 | |
| Third Building (Rear Rooms) 253 | |
| Second Building (Rear Rooms) 253 | |
| First Building (Rear Rooms) 253 | |
| Grounds of the Ninomaru 254 | |
| Seiryu-en 256 | |
| TOUR 12: Temples, Palaces, and Pavilions of Delight | |
| NINNA-JI AND OMURO PALACE | 259 |
| San-mon 261 | |
| Chu-mon 261 | |
| Hondo 262 | |
| Miei-do 262 | |
| Omuro Palace 262 | |
| Shiro Shoin 263 | |
| Shinden 263 | |
| Kuro Shoin 264 | |
| Reihokan 265 | |
| Omuro Kaikan 265 | |
| RYOAN-JI 265 | 265 |
| Kyoyo-chi 266 |
| Kuri 267 | |
| Hojo 268 | |
| Ryoan-ji Garden 268 | |
| Domoto Insho Art Museum 270 | |
| KINKAKU-JI (THE TEMPLE OF THE GOLD PAVILION) | 270 |
| Hondo 272 | |
| Dai Shoin 272 | |
| The Gold Pavilion 273 | |
| Sekka-tei 274 | |
| Fudo-do 275 | |
| TOUR 13: Brocades, Samurai Movies, and the Contemplative Bodhisattva | |
| Nishijin Textile Center 281 | |
| SENBON SHAKA-DO (DAIHO-ON-JI) | 283 |
| Hondo 283 | |
| Reihokan 285 | |
| KITANO TENMAN-GU 286 | 286 |
| Haiden and Honden 288 |
| Homotsu-den 288 | |
| TOJI-IN | 289 |
| Hondo 290 | |
| Ashikaga Shogun Images 291 | |
| KORYU-JI | 292 |
| Kodo 294 | |
| Taishi-do 294 | |
| Keigu-in 294 | |
| Reihokan 295 | |
| Toei Eigamura 296 | |
| TOUR 14: The Old Imperial Palace | |
| THE OLD IMPERIAL PALACE | 302 |
| Shodaibu-no-ma 307 | |
| Seiryo-den 307 | |
| Shishin-den 310 | |
| Jinoza 312 | |
| Kogosho 312 | |
| Oike-niwa 312 | |
| Ogakumonjo 313 | |
| Otsune-goten 313 | |
| Sento Gosho 315 | |
| APPENDIXES | |
| 1 Getting to Kyoto 321 | |
| 2 General Tourist Information 325 | |
| 3 Ceremonies and Festivals 327 | |
| BIBLIOGRAPHY | 343 |
