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There is a worry that pika habitat may be dwindling with global warming as one possible cause, but the rabbit-related creatures are still prolific on rocky slopes in the high country.


Moose were reintroduced to Southwest Colorado in the mid-1990s. They’re common around Silverton, and at least one has ventured near Durango.

GENERAL INFORMATION

The following is a miniature survival guide, offering advice on dealing with conditions and elements you’ll encounter on the trails. Use these tips to prepare for your hikes and so you’ll know what to do when things go wrong.

OTHER TRAIL USERS

You will bump into other animals on the trails that aren’t like you. Some, like dogs and horses, will be cheating by walking on four legs. Others will travel using two wheels, and some of those will be powered, either by gas engines or even electricity.

Do your best to get along with all of them. Be nice and smile, because mutual respect among all users goes a long way. (See Ethics on page 229.)

Dogs are great trail companions, be they yours or someone else’s. If dogs are part of your group, be mindful of what they’re doing. Don’t let them harass and chase wildlife. In certain places, you could be fined. The legal precedent is a bit cloudy here, but ranchers can even go as far as to shoot your dog if it is endangering their livestock (cattle or sheep, for example).

Horses have the right of way, so look for a good spot to pull well off the trail and let them by, in the meantime talking to the rider (or horse) in a calm voice. And make absolutely sure that your dog does not get near that unpredictable horse’s hooves.

Mountain bikers are usually very considerate, but they have their bad apples like any user group. As a hiker you technically have the right of way with bikers, but if it’s easier for you just to step out of the way for a second to let the cyclist ride past, do it. Note to mountain bikers (including me): What irks hikers more than anything is when you don’t even act like you’re thinking of slowing down. If you’re going downhill, it’s easier for you to apply the brakes and pull over than it is for a hiker to dodge you.

Motorbikes are only allowed on a handful of trails in this book. Hikers, as much as the noise might bother you, it doesn’t last too long. Let them by. It’s generally pretty difficult for a motorbike rider to pull off the trail; that’s a heavy, unwieldy beast they’ve got.

E-bikes are part bicycle, part machine, and their classification is unclear. However, they’re becoming increasingly popular; look for them to show up soon on a trail or two near you.

HAZARDS: WEATHER, ALTITUDE, AND MORE

Hikers in higher altitudes in the Rockies must always be aware of the weather. It can change from beautiful to dangerous very quickly. This is especially true from early July to early September, when afternoon thunderstorms are frequent—the monsoon season. During this period, it is best to plan to reach the highest altitude in your hike by noon. These storms can be severe, even if they are short lived. They can bring wind, cold, rain, small hail, or all of the above. The greatest hazard, however, is lightning. This high-voltage static electricity can kill or maim in a split second. High points where the charged cloud is closest are the strike zones. This makes high or isolated peaks and ridges especially vulnerable.

Any dark cloud nearby in the summer should be considered suspect, even if it is small. There are additional signs of an imminent lightning flash. If you are on or near a high point and hear a buzzing in the rocks, or if the hair on your arms or legs or even your head begins to stand up, you’re in prime territory; get down to lower levels as fast as possible—not so fast, however, that you trip and fall, which is a much more likely way to get hurt than a lightning strike. Also, if you seek shelter from rain under a tree, make it a tree that is lower than others nearby.

Lightning is the worst danger from storms, but it’s not the only one. Rocks that call for scrambling can be very slick when they get wet. Lichens on them increase this problem. Paul Pixler related this story: “Once on El Diente, it began drizzling just after our party started down from the top; the rocks are near vertical and are very irregular in this area. I slipped on one that would have held easily when dry. Though I fell only 3 feet, that led to an edge where there was another drop, followed by another and another. Fortunately, two companions were at the edge of the first one and stopped me before I could go to the next drop. Though embarrassing, it served as a reminder to me to become more cautious, but it could have been disastrous.”

Another danger from rainstorms is hypothermia. This is a condition in which the core body temperature begins to drop below normal. Cold fingers and toes are uncomfortable, but a cold body core is highly dangerous. Soaked clothes and some wind can bring this on quickly at high altitudes, even in July. If you begin to shiver violently, hypothermia is starting. Companions must come to the rescue and furnish heat immediately, because the victim soon becomes disoriented and may not recognize the danger. Extra clothing will help, as will a faster pace if possible. However, in more severe cases, skin-to-skin body heat transfer is likely to be the only answer. (Hopefully the victim is someone you like.)

High altitude is an unseen hazard, particularly to visitors from low elevations. Air at higher altitudes contains less oxygen; therefore, your heart and lungs work harder to oxygenate and circulate the blood. People with a history of heart problems or high blood pressure should probably consider only the easier and lower hikes.

Acclimatization to high altitude seems to basically involve an increase in red blood cell count, which makes for a more efficient use of the available oxygen in the thinner air. Different theories abound on how long this acclimatization takes.


Sometimes, snow blocks the road and thwarts early-season hiking plans. Usually you could drive from Silverton to Animas Forks by late May, but in 2019 it wasn’t possible until August because of a huge avalanche from Grouse Gulch.

Altitude sickness brings on lightheadedness or headaches. Often symptoms will subside with a quick rest and slower pace. If these symptoms become severe, the way to recover is to hike to a lower altitude. Remember to stay hydrated; sometimes headaches are simply caused by not drinking enough water.

Snowfields and scree fields (loose dirt that you can basically slide down on your hiking boots) can help speed you down a mountainside or land you in deep trouble. Particularly with snow, the risk should be obvious: Get going too fast or out of control, and suddenly you’re speeding down a steep slope on your butt. The landing is a rocky runout below—or worse. Broken legs and heads can result. Bring an ice axe and know how to use it if you’re going to glissade down a snowfield. Know the runout zone. Be smart. Scree fields are generally a little safer. The problem comes when scree suddenly disappears and you find yourself on hard dirt, but you can’t stop so easily, if at all. Be careful and think ahead.

It won’t keep you from making bad decisions and getting hurt, but it’s a good idea to have a Colorado Outdoor Recreation Search & Rescue (CORSAR) card. The fund it creates helps defray counties’ costs for search and rescue expenses. Without it, those search and rescue teams you rely on may not be able to respond as quickly, or as well, to your emergency. The cards are available at many outdoor gear and fishing/hunting stores. La Plata and San Juan counties, by the way, have two of the finest search and rescue squads in the country.

GEAR ESSENTIALS

In addition to decent hiking boots, a day pack with adequate water and food for the day, and an extra clothing layer or two (depending on the altitude), there are a few pieces of gear that you should seriously consider packing. Some of these items will only be necessary in an emergency. If you start out the day with absolute certainty there will be no emergency, then I think the likelihood of your needing one of these items goes up.

RECOMMENDED GEAR:

These are what I recommend as essentials to have on hand when hiking.

•Headlamp.

•Bivouac sack/space blanket. This is extremely valuable in keeping an injured hiker warm, particularly if they go into shock. It’s also handy for unplanned overnights.

•Water purification. Whether it’s tablets or a UV “pen” or filter, don’t head into the wilderness without it.

•Sunscreen.

•Matches, compass, knife, perhaps a whistle.

•Extra insulation. Synthetic is best. And don’t forget rain gear. Sunny days turn cloudy quickly in the San Juan Mountains.

•First-aid kit. (Details on the contents are below.)

•Extra calories and water. Experience helps determine how much food and water you need, but it doesn’t hurt to overestimate.

•A hiking partner. On easy and moderate hikes this isn’t as important. But if you get hurt, you’ll want some help.

•A small rope. Again, this isn’t necessary for all hikes. But when you’re on steep scrambles and exposed ridges, an 8-millimeter cord about 10 meters long can be a lifesaver. It weighs less than a pound.

FIRST-AID KIT

Not everyone will have an identical first-aid kit, and that’s okay. Just make sure that whoever in your group is bringing one (someone must!) that includes the essentials. This is one example of a first-aid kit. It is carried by Leo Lloyd, a fire department paramedic who also serves with La Plata County Search & Rescue and is an international instructor with Rigging for Rescue.

•Baggie with an ibuprofen-Tylenol mix. A mix of three ibuprofen to two Tylenol pills works well for moderate to severe pain.

•Band-Aids.

•Moleskin for foot blisters.

•Gauze. This can be applied with pressure directly to a wound to stop bleeding.

•Triangular bandage. This can serve as an arm sling and has other uses.

•A pressure wrap over gauze to stop bleeding. This can be some sort of pressure wrap, such as gauze wrap, elastic wrap, or a triangular bandage.

•Tourniquet. In an emergency, this rubberized piece can stop serious blood loss or double as a wrap.

•Surgical gloves.

•Tweezers.

•Bandage scissors. Scissors will give you an easier, cleaner cut than you can get using a knife.


Leo Lloyd’s first-aid kit includes gloves, Band-Aids, moleskin, an ibuprofen-Tylenol combo mix, gauze, wraps, tweezers, and scissors. (Photo by Leo Lloyd)

PLANNING AND COMMUNICATING

Perhaps the most overlooked aspects of an outdoor adventure, planning and communicating can prove critical in preventing or lessening an emergency situation.

Plan. Have a plan, make sure everyone in your group knows what it is, and stick to it unless everyone is there to decide how to alter it.

Judgment. This comes partly with experience, but it’s important to evaluate your group members and know whose judgment to trust. If you’re the leader, make sure you don’t involve others in situations they can’t handle.

Communicate. Before any trip, decide who’s bringing the maps and the first-aid kit, and what the plan is. Don’t wait till you get to the trailhead to discuss these important details. Also, communicate frequently during a hike or climb and stay together with your group; separating from the group commonly causes or compounds serious problems.

Navigation. Bring maps, preferably physical rather than virtual ones. Cellular phones and GPS units can lose service, die, or malfunction. Personal locator beacons, preferably ones that can send texts, are becoming increasingly popular and useful. You can use one to send a distress message via satellite, and the receiver will show your location. A decent one goes for around $350.

Accidents happen, but there’s a lot you can do to keep accidents from leading to life-threatening emergencies.

FINAL NOTE

I’ve wrestled often with the issue of how much to divulge in trail descriptions. The bottom line is: I just don’t want to give away all the secrets.

I’ll tell you some “well-known secrets” (I like that contradiction), but I’m not going to go out of my way to tell you everything. You wouldn’t want me to give away everything. What fun is that? You want to discover things on your own. You want that element of surprise and delight when you see something unexpected. If you want someone to reveal every little detail—every waterfall, every swimming hole, every peak, and every flower you will see—then by all means, find a book or blog that does this.

Every hike is an adventure. Wilderness is out there to be explored, to captivate, and to surprise. My hope is you will use this book to capture that experience.

Hiking Trails of Southwestern Colorado, Fifth Edition

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