Читать книгу The SAS Survival Driver’s Handbook - John Wiseman - Страница 9
ОглавлениеYour car is one of your most valuable possessions. Even if it’s just an old banger, when someone steals or vandalizes your vehicle you suffer in cash terms (insurance excesses, loss of no-claims bonus), and, even worse, you’re deprived of your usual means of transport, having to rely instead on public transport — which may mean walking home from the nearest station or bus stop late at night — or cadging lifts from friends.
DETERRENTS
• Etching
• Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
• Caravan security
• Don't advertise
• Radios
• At home
SECURITY CHECKLIST
• Parking Dos and Don'ts
Car crime is big business. Every year hundreds of thousands of cars are stolen or vandalized, forcing up insurance premiums and costing taxpayers millions in criminal justice costs. In the UK alone, a car is stolen every 60 seconds. Of these, around a third are stolen for ‘one-off use’, such as ‘joy riding’, or as a getaway vehicle after committing another crime, or just as a means for the thief to get home after missing the last bus. There’s a good chance that these cars will be recovered, because the thieves tend to dump them after a few hours, but more often than not they’re burned-out wrecks by that time — either damaged in a crash or vandalized.
A few years ago joy riding accounted for two-thirds of stolen cars, but now that honour goes to cars stolen by professional thieves. This is because of a boom in the market for secondhand parts — thieves steal popular makes and strip them down for spares. Old cars are possibly even more at risk than new ones (top of the thieves’ hit list in Britain is a 10-year-old Ford Escort 1.3), partly because the owners think that no one will be interested in stealing their old banger. New models and high-performance cars are likely to be ‘ringed’ — given a change of identity and sold on (possibly to an unsuspecting buyer). Whether it’s been ringed or stripped, once it’s been stolen there’s little chance of getting your car back.
And car crime doesn’t end with vehicle theft: in Britain a car is broken into and something stolen from it every 20 seconds. The cost of repairing the damage, let alone replacing the items stolen, can be considerable — so it’s well worth investing in the best security devices you can afford to protect your car. Some insurance companies will reduce premiums (by as much as 50 per cent in some cases) when an approved electronic security system is fitted.
It’s almost impossible to make a car totally thief-proof. What a security device can do, however, is to make access as difficult and time-consuming as possible to deter thieves. Most car thieves are opportunists, seizing upon easy targets — it takes only a matter of seconds and little effort to break into an unprotected car, and the chances of being caught are slim. A device that takes several minutes to disarm, and which sounds a piercing alarm the whole while, will make your car a much less attractive prospect.
There are hundreds of anti-theft devices on the market, ranging from inexpensive mechanical immobilizers such as steering wheel clamps to sophisticated (and costly) electronic systems. In deciding how much to spend you will need to think about the level of risk for your car (is it a high-performance car, attractive to thieves and a target for vandals), whether any security features have been incorporated by the manufacturer (such as built-in immobilizers or alarms), and the sort of areas you use your car in (do you have no choice but to park in the street or use high-risk inner-city car parks?).
Before buying any product, seek an unbiased opinion of its performance. It’s a good idea to check out reviews in motoring or consumer magazines — often a range of comparable devices will be put to the test and the results published. Or ask friends and colleagues what they use and whether they can recommend it.
Whichever security device you opt for, make sure it is as visible as possible to act as a deterrent. The idea is to let the thief know that breaking into your car will be more trouble than it’s worth, so that hopefully he’ll give up on the idea and move on to the next easy target. Use window stickers supplied by the manufacturer to advertise the fact that you’ve got a state-of-the-art electronic immobilizer/alarm fitted, because if the thief has to break in to find out it’s there you’ll be faced with an expensive bill for damage. [The downside of these stickers is that they alert professionals to what they can expect, but a determined pro will probably find his way round any security device if it’s worth his while, so settle for deterring the opportunist amateurs.) Electronic alarms usually have a flashing LED light display which can be seen from the side window. Mechanical devices tend to have neon yellow parts to catch the eye of the would-be thief.
An alarm should have a siren loud enough to warn you if anyone is tampering with your car and, hopefully, frighten off the would-be thief. In a recent official survey, convicted thieves were asked whether they would try to steal a car if they knew it was equipped with an alarm; 83 per cent said they would be deterred from tampering with the car, and that if an alarm sounded while they were trying to gain entry they would run away.
On the other hand, another survey aimed at members of the public found that the majority tend to ignore car alarms, assuming that it’s a false alarm. It’s important when selecting a car alarm to make sure that it is not going to be set off by a strong breeze or a passing car. In some countries, including Britain, local authorities have the power to prosecute owners of vehicles whose false alarms cause a nuisance. And thieves have been known to use the alarm to work to their advantage, by rocking a parked car to set off the alarm in the middle of the night and then hiding. Once the owner has reset the alarm and gone back to the house, the thieves emerge and rock the car again until the alarm sounds. By doing this several times, they fool the owner into thinking that the alarm is faulty. The owner then disconnects the alarm and the thieves can make off with the car in peace.
Many car manufacturers now offer built-in car alarms as an option. This is worth having, because even though a factory-fitted alarm may not be the most advanced system money can buy, it should offer a good level of protection and will have been tested and approved for your model of car.
If your car did not come with an alarm fitted, you need to decide whether you are going to buy a simple system that you can fit yourself, or pay an expert to fit something more sophisticated. Be warned, the cheaper and simpler it is to fit, the easier it will be for a thief to get around. For example, air-pressure-sensitive devices which you lock over the steering wheel are advertised as having a siren so piercing that the thief will be unable to drive because of the noise — in fact, thieves can rip these off and throw them out of the window in a matter of seconds. Alarms which use the car’s horn are also a doddle for thieves: the wires are usually fitted behind the engine grille — snip them and the alarm stops. If you’re on a tight budget, it’s probably best to opt for an alarm which can be expanded; buy the basic unit to start with and add the rest as and when your finances allow.
Go for the noisiest siren you can get. To make sure that thieves can’t silence the alarm by getting under the car and cutting the battery cable, get a system with a back-up battery. The method whereby you can switch off the alarm, should the need arise, varies: some use a hidden switch or a key in the siren unit, but the best are operated by remote control (which may also operate the car’s central locking). But be warned: these remote locking devices are not without risk. Illegal receivers, known as ‘grabbers’ can be used by thieves to copy your code as you lock the car; the code is then copied on to their own remote and transmitted to open your car. A grabber’s range is limited, so be suspicious of anyone standing close by holding a small box when you lock the car. The best remote control systems foil grabbers by automatically changing their code each time they are operated.
Remember to change the batteries of your remote control as often as the manufacturer recommends, or you won’t be able to deactivate the alarm.
Alarms can detect an intruder in a variety of ways, depending on which sensors they are fitted with:
Direct contact sensor. Electronic sensors in the doors, boot/hatch, bonnet trigger an alarm when forced open. This system won’t be activated if thieves smash a window to steal your radio.
Current and voltage-drop sensors detect changes in the car’s electrical system. If your vehicle is fitted with a cooling fan which runs even when the engine has been switched off, this system cannot be fitted. Again, there is no protection against a thief smashing the window.
Ultrasonic sensors detect changes in air pressure within the car and will trigger the alarm if someone smashes a window or gets in the car. The downside is that if it’s windy outside or if a passing vehicle creates a strong breeze, air coming through the vents can set off the alarm, so you have to remember to close all interior vents, windows and sunroof when you park the car (if you have a convertible with a soft roof, opt for another type of alarm altogether). Some sensors can be switched off, or the sensitivity adjusted — but don’t turn it down too far or the alarm may not go off when someone tries to break in.
Microwave sensors detect solid objects which pass through beams directed past all points of entry. Microwave systems are expensive, but less prone to false alarms. They are also suitable for convertibles, as even with the roof down the beams will trigger the alarm if anyone reaches inside the car.
Shock sensors detect sudden shocks, like someone trying to smash their way in or vandalize the car. The sensitivity needs to be adjusted to avoid false alarms every time another vehicle passes by.
Tilt sensors react to the car being lifted, thus preventing anyone loading the car on to another vehicle or towing it away.
Other features worth having include a panic button, so that if you are attacked when in or near your car the alarm will sound; a status monitor, to notify you (usually by means of the LED display) that the alarm has been activated while you were away from the car; and finally, perhaps the most useful secondary feature of all, engine immobilization to disable the electrics and prevent the car starting when the alarm goes off.
The latest innovation in alarms is the use of specially formulated, non-toxic smoke. In the event of an attempted car-jacking or attack, there is a 35-second countdown. If the owner does not reset the system, the engine starts to misfire and progressive immobilization begins: lights flash, the horn sounds and the engine stops completely. Finally a dense smokescreen is pumped into the car. The car remains immobilized until the correct PIN number is entered.
Whichever system you choose, make sure there is a good visual deterrent such as a flashing light visible from outside the car. And, most important of all, remember to switch your alarm on — even if you’re only leaving the car for a couple of minutes.
There are two main types of immobilizer: mechanical (for example, crook locks and clamps which physically prevent the operation of controls such as the steering wheel or gear lever) and electronic. An electronic immobilizer is wired into the car’s electrics to prevent the engine from being started. (A third form of immobilizer is the steering column lock, fitted as standard in all cars built since 1972. This operates when the key is removed from the ignition, and the steering wheel is turned until it clicks.) Of these, the electronic immobilizer is the most difficult for thieves to get around, because the wiring is designed to be as complicated and confusing as possible — making it no easy matter to snip the wires or re-route the circuit.
The most basic electronic immobilizers work by breaking the starter motor circuit. More sophisticated (and therefore more difficult to bypass) versions are connected to the ignition system. Some systems switch themselves on automatically whenever the car is left, which saves you having to remember. The device used to override the immobilizer varies from a key which you insert into a socket in the dashboard, or a remote control handset, or a key pad which you use to type in a secret code number.
It is possible to buy a combined alarm/immobilizer system which prevents the engine being started when the alarm is activated — this is the best system to go for, because an immobilizer by itself will not protect your cars from smash- and-grab thieves or vandals, or from being loaded on to another vehicle or towed away.
Check out which system is best for you with a dealer — don’t buy secondhand, because a manufacturer’s warranty is well worth having, and with a dealer you can find out exactly what features the system has and arrange for it to be professionally fitted. It can be very dangerous if an immobilizer activates when the car is moving, so ask your dealer what safeguards are built in to prevent this.
Most immobilizers are invisible, so remember to place the manufacturer’s stickers in the window to warn potential thieves that the car is protected.
For a top-of-the-range high-performance or luxury car (or caravan) thieves are prepared to put in a lot of effort. Organized gangs have equipped themselves with tow trucks so that they can transport stolen vehicles to a workshop where immobilizers and alarms can be deactivated out of the public gaze. Once the car is in their hands there is little hope of recovering it — unless you have it fitted with an electronic tracking system.
As soon as you report the car or caravan stolen, a high-powered transmitter will send a coded message to activate a small transponder unit concealed within your car, which then broadcasts a silent homing signal. These signals can be picked up by the police (there are control units throughout the country equipped with Tracker detectors, especially at ports and on major motorways). Even if the car is hidden away in a garage, the police can locate it.
Tracker systems are expensive, so it’s really only worth considering for a valuable car. Contact one of the major motoring organizations or your insurance company for further details (your insurance premiums may be reduced because of the chances of recovering the vehicle are dramatically improved with a tracker system).
If your car is old and low in value, it’s not worth spending a fortune on an electronic immobilizer or alarm system. But don’t assume that thieves won’t give it a second glance — unprotected old cars are favourite targets. Fit a mechanical immobilizer to make it as hard and time-consuming as possible for the thief to drive your car away.
Most of these devices are made of hacksaw-resistant metal with a heavy lock to prevent use of one or more of the car’s controls. You can fit them yourself and transfer them from car to car, because they are universal in design. They should be highly visual, because the first line of defence is to force the potential crook to look elsewhere for easier pickings. None of these devices can protect your car from a determined thief — the most they will do is slow him down. And they can’t protect the car from vandals or smash-and-grab raids on the contents. So if you’ve got an expensive car or if you have to leave valuable items in the car, only use a mechanical immobilizer in conjunction with a more sophisticated alarm or immobilizer.
Steering wheel clamps to prevent the wheel being rotated more than a few degrees
Steering wheel to pedal locks, to prevent the clutch and/or brake pedal from operating
Gear lever and gear-to-handbrake locks, to prevent movement of the gear lever. (If your car has a gear lever which can be unscrewed, a thief can easily bypass this.)
It’s all to easy when you’re in a hurry to forget to lock all the doors, especially when you’re carrying passengers and need to ensure that their doors are locked as well. With central locking, the only door you need to remember to lock is the driver’s door, because then all the other doors will be locked automatically. Many new cars come with central locking as standard, but if yours is not equipped there are kits available for most makes and models. These kits can operate two or four doors — and on some cars the boot or hatch, too.
When buying a kit or a car fitted with central locking, check with the dealer that in the event of a serious collision the locks will pop open so that rescuers can get you out of the car. In some countries this is a legal requirement.
Deadlocks
Deadlocks (or ‘double locks’) are the most effective form of lock. Whereas ordinary locks can be opened by smashing a window and using the interior control, or by using a coathanger or special tool to tamper with the lock mechanism, deadlocks cannot be opened from inside or outside without the key. This means that the prospective car thief would have to climb in through a broken window, making him very conspicuous.
Most deadlocks have a normal position and a high-security position. When leaving the car unattended you should always use the high-security position (which means giving the key an extra turn) to ensure that your car is protected. If you have to leave children locked in the car while you run a quick errand, use the normal locking position so that rescuers can free them in case of an emergency.
Locking wheel nuts
Alloy wheels are expensive and an easy target for thieves, so fit lockable wheel nuts or bolts to prevent them from being stolen. These usually come in sets of four — one per wheel — and you can fit them yourself. Always carry the key in case you have a puncture.
Locking fuel cap
Fit a locking fuel cap to prevent thieves from siphoning your petrol/diesel, or from filling up when the tank runs dry. The cap should take a different key to the doors and ignition, because otherwise thieves can steal the cap and use it to make a copy of your car keys.
If you can’t afford a shop-bought immobilizer, If you can’t afford a shop-bought immobilizer, or if you want some additional security, try one of the following measures when leaving the car in a dubious area:
Use a stout chain padlocked from the steering wheel to the clutch pedal, preventing the clutch from being depressed.
Leave the minimum amount of fuel in the car, so if it gets stolen it can’t be driven far. A valve on the fuel line which can be closed to prevent fuel entering the carburettor is probably more effective. This can be discreetly hidden under the bonnet.
Remove the HT lead. This is a push fit lead which clips in between the coil and the distributor.
On older cars the rotor arm can be removed. Unclip the distributor and lift out the rotor arm.
On some models it is possible to remove the gear lever by unscrewing it.
Some people have even removed the steering wheel when parking their car.
If you do remove any component, to save carrying it around, lock it in the boot. You are less likely to lose it or misplace it if you do this. Hide it away so even the most determined of car thieves will not detect it. In the boot lid there are channels that can be used for this purpose.
If the manufacturer hasn’t already done so, have the registration number or VIN (see panel below) etched on to all glass surfaces — windscreen, sunroof, wing mirrors, lights and windows. This will deter thieves who ‘ring’ stolen cars, because instead of simply changing the number plates to give it a new identity they will have to replace all the marked glass — an expensive process.
Some insurance companies will security-etch your windows for free. Alternatively, you can buy a do-it-yourself kit from an accessory shop or consult your local Crime Prevention Officer for a list of garages and specialists who provide the service.
Of course, security etching won’t deter joy riders or thieves who smash a side window to steal your radio. You can make life more difficult for these opportunists by having the side windows covered with a transparent laminated polyester film. This sticks to the inside of the window and prevents the glass from breaking when struck with a brick or other blunt instrument. It will also mean that in the event of an accident the glass will craze rather than showering you with sharp fragments. You will still be able to escape through the window, if necessary, by pushing the whole window out.
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Every car has its own VIN displayed in the engine compartment. A new innovation, at the moment restricted to luxury cars, is to have the VIN printed on lots of tiny microdots the size of a pin head and scattered throughout the car during manufacture. By examining the car with a special detector it is possible to check that the VIN microdots tally with the number displayed in the engine compartment. Since luxury cars have the greatest risk of being ‘ringed’, these microdot VINs are a feature worth having.
This is a scheme operated by some police forces (so far, mostly in urban areas). It works like this: few people make a habit of driving in the middle of the night (except shiftworkers, who may seldom use their cars in the middle of the day), so the local police will fit stickers to the front and rear windows of the car advertising the hours when it is unlikely to be in use. When a police officer sees a car with a nighttime sticker being driven between 12.30–5.30 a.m. (or 10 a.m.–4.30 p.m. in the case of a day-time sticker), the car will be flagged down as a matter of course and the driver questioned and asked to confirm their identity.
There is a thriving market in stolen caravans. They’re more difficult to trace and therefore easier to sell than cars. Don’t trust to luck — take precautions to protect your caravan:
• Keep a note of the chassis number and put it in a safe place together with the registration documents (DON’T leave these documents in the caravan itself). It’s a good idea to take a photograph of the caravan for insurance purposes, and to draw up a list of any distinguishing features, marks, scratches — for identification purposes in the event that the stolen caravan is recovered.
• Etch the chassis number on all glass surfaces, and use an ultraviolet pen to mark it on a few other surfaces in the interior.
• Fit a security device to immobilize the caravan or sound an alarm when it is moved. Activate the security system whenever the caravan is left unattended, even for a short period. Make sure there is a reliable power source that cannot be easily interrupted by a thief, so that the alarm will sound in the event of interference.
• Do not leave valuable items inside. It’s best to leave the curtains open so that potential thieves can see that there is nothing of value to tempt them — drawn curtains may lead them to suspect that there’s something worth stealing hidden within.
• Check out the site security before you leave it in a commercial caravan site. A good site will have insurance cover. If the caravan is going to be left on site for some time, remove the wheels.
Around 60 per cent of car-related theft is carried out not by professionals but by casual thieves who take advantage of an easy opportunity such as an unlocked door, boot, or rear hatch, or an open window. A recent survey of motorists found that 29 per cent admitted to leaving their vehicles unlocked at some time. Most would say they only leave the car unattended for a few minutes while popping into the newsagent or filling up with petrol, or when it’s in their garage — but it takes only a matter of minutes for a car to be stolen.
It’s all very well investing in anti-theft devices and deterrents, but you have to make a habit of using them every time you leave the car. Where fitted, ensure that deadlocks, immobilizers and alarms are engaged before leaving the car and lock the fuel filler cap. Always make sure all doors and windows (including the sunroof) are secure by physically checking each one. This applies even when the car is parked in your own garage or driveway. On cold mornings it may be tempting to start the car and go back indoors to finish your tea while the engine warms up. This is an open invitation to thieves. Always remove the ignition key. Filling station forecourts are a favourite hunting ground for thieves — so many trusting owners go in to pay for their fuel leaving the car unattended and the key in the ignition. When removing the keys engage the steering lock by turning the wheel till it clicks. (Never attempt to move a car without the keys in the ignition, as the steering lock will still be engaged, preventing the wheel from turning.)
Never leave a child or an animal alone in a car. Thieves won’t be deterred by their presence — they may even make your car a more attractive target. Children have been abducted from cars, and they can suffer injury when left alone, locked inside a parked vehicle. To keep them safe, take them with you.
Keep your car keys secure at all times and never have the make, number, or your address on the key fob — this will only make life easier for thieves. Just the logo or the manufacturer’s name on a key fob is a breach of security: anyone finding the key can tour the car park trying it in every car of that make until they find yours.
Your spare set of keys are best kept at home. But it’s a good idea to have another spare key somewhere more accessible in case you manage to lock your keys in the vehicle. There are plenty of hiding places on the vehicle where a key can be secured, like a recess under a bumper or wing. Special magnetic holders are available for this, but don’t rely on the magnet — tape them on as an extra precaution.
Make your car as anonymous and unattractive to thieves as possible. Remove temptation: before getting out of the car make sure that no valuables are on display. Never leave a coat, even an old one, lying on the seat — a thief may break in to see whether you have left any money or credit cards in the pockets. The coat may be worthless and the pockets empty, but you’ll find yourself with a hefty bill for replacing the window.
Lock everything that you cannot carry with you out of sight in the boot. This is particularly important around Christmas time, when you’re rushing back and forth to dump one load of shopping in the car before going off to buy some more. No matter how much of a hurry you’re in, take the time to lock everything in the boot. Mobile phones are a prime target, so make a note of the serial number and keep it in a safe place so a stolen phone can be identified if recovered by the police, and mark your phone and battery with your postcode.
When going on holiday (or on your return), don’t leave the car unattended while it’s loaded with your luggage. No matter how early a start you’re making, don’t load the car the night before (and when you get back from holiday, regardless how tired you are, make it a priority to unload). It’s all too easy for a thief to do the unloading for you overnight. If you have a garage, load the car indoors and out of sight — you don’t want to advertise the fact that the house is going to be left empty for a couple of weeks. While loading, lock the car behind you and activate the alarm if you have to go back into the house to fetch more items.
If you have only basic insurance cover for your car, extend your household insurance to cover coats, cameras, luggage, etc in case they are stolen from the car.
NEVER leave cheques or credit cards in the car, even out of sight in the glove box.
NEVER leave your driving licence, registration document, MOT or insurance certificates in the car. And remove any personal correspondence or other items with your name and address on. These documents can be used to provide the thief with a cover story if stopped by the police, and they make it easier to sell your car (all the thief has to do is get the car re-registered in his name and sell it on to an unsuspecting buyer).
Car stereo systems are the target in a third of all thefts from cars. You may have a pretty average radio, but the sight of it sitting there in the dashboard can still be enough to tempt a thief to steal it — and the resulting damage to your car may cost a lot more than the radio did.
There are a number of ways to protect your radio, the main ones being removal of the unit or front panel, or fitting a radio protected by security coding.
A removable stereo system is designed to be slid out of the dashboard and either taken with you or hidden in the car. (Some cars have a flap that covers the radio, leaving a space so that to the casual observer it looks as though the radio has been removed.) Most radios are too heavy to carry around all day, so the majority of drivers put them under the front seat or in the boot. The majority of thieves know this, and if they see a gap in the dashboard where the radio should be they may break in to see if they can find where you’ve hidden it.
To get round this, car audio manufacturers have come up with removable control panels. Instead of taking out the entire unit, you just unclip a panel the size of a pocket calculator and put it in your pocket or handbag. It’s possible to buy a replacement panel, but so expensive that it defeats the object of stealing the unit.
Security coding ensures that the radio will not work if the power is cut (for example, by removing the radio from the car) unless the correct four-digit code is typed in. There are over 10,000 possible combinations, so the chances of anyone cracking the code are slim. Some systems refuse to accept more than half a dozen tries at the number, shutting down if the wrong code is typed in several times in a row.
A recent innovation from car manufacturers is the unique stereo, which is designed to fit only one model of car. Since all other cars of the same model will be fitted with a radio already, there’s no point in stealing the radio.
Whichever method you decide to opt for, apply a little common sense as well: don’t display manufacturers’ window stickers advertising what a great stereo system you’ve got, and don’t leave speakers sitting on your rear shelf. Use a UV (ultra-violet) pen to mark your stereo with your postcode or registration number to help identify the equipment in the event that it is stolen. Keep a note of the serial number in a safe place at home (not in the car!).
For the thief, car parks offer a wide selection of cars to choose from. Unattended railway station car parks which are virtually deserted outside the rush hour are especially popular with criminals, but there are easy targets available in shopper’s car parks too, as car owners distracted by their kids or in a hurry to get to the shops forget to lock all the doors and secure the windows before leaving the car.
Eliminate that last-minute rush. Always allow time for parking when planning a journey. In a large city the search for a parking space can take as long as the journey itself. It’s tempting to park illegally when you’ve been driving round and round in circles with not a space to be seen. DON’T DO IT! It can be very costly, and it could leave you vulnerable to attack — if your car gets clamped you could have to wait in the car for hours until the unclamping team turns up. You may even have to abandon the car and find alternative means of getting home, especially late at night. Look at the signs to see if parking is legal and a time limit imposed. Some areas are for permit-holders only and the signs are few and far between. Wait until you find a legal parking place.
Don’t park the car on waste ground, in isolated rundown areas, and if it’s likely that you won’t be returning until it’s dark, bear in mind what your parking place will be like by then. Choose somewhere that’s well lit. In station and airport car parks, find a spot as near to the exit or a courtesy bus stop as possible. If you have to park in the street, choose a busy shopping street or somewhere your car is overlooked by offices by day and houses by night, not a dark, dingy alley. Retract the aerial fully to stop it being vandalized. When leaving the car parked in a narrow road, if you have spring-loaded wing mirrors tuck them in to avoid them being broken off by passing vehicles. Don’t park in a place where the car obstructs other vehicles. Park as close to your final destination as possible. Always try to park under a street lamp if the car is to be left unattended after dark. Be especially careful where you park a soft-top convertible.
Organized gangs target car parks with poor security, as do sex offenders seeking to prey on unaccompanied females. Whenever possible use attended and secure car parks.
Your car is as vulnerable at home as anywhere else and the same precautions (locking all doors, fastening windows, activating alarms, removing all valuables, etc) need to be carried out. More than half of all thefts from cars occur when the car is parked at or near the owner’s home, so don’t be complacent, be vigilant. If you don’t have a garage, park as close to your home as possible, preferably in a well-lit spot where you can see it.
If you have a garage, use it. Fit the best locks available to secure the garage door and keep it locked. If your car is stolen from an unlocked garage your insurance company may refuse to meet the claim in full. You’ll be protecting your home, too — garages often double as workshops and are full of valuable tools which can be used to gain entry to your house. Keep the car and garage keys in a secure place. Don’t leave them on display where anyone can see them; put them in an ornament or some other regular hiding place. If you don’t want to forget something which you must take with you the next day, leave the keys with this item. No way can you then go without it.
When you drive out of the garage, park on the drive and secure the garage door behind you. An open garage is an open invitation to the criminal element, signalling that there’s no one at home. Deny thieves this information.
Be suspicious if you find another car blocking your driveway. An old trick used by thieves is to park across a private entrance in the hope that the owner will leave his or her car unlocked while they go looking for the driver of the other vehicle.
Always reverse into the garage. It makes leaving easier, and in the event of a house fire the car can be removed faster (but if the fire has already reached the garage, stay well clear — DON’T risk your life to save a heap of metal on four wheels).
See Garage Hazards in Safety for guidelines on making your garage a safer place.
If you see someone tampering with your car, resist the impulse to challenge them. They may be armed, or there could be a lookout close by who will join in any attack on you. Call the police immediately and give them a description of the villain. Keep out of sight and don’t block the thieves’ escape route — it’s self-preservation, not cowardice. Damage to the car can be put right, but if you try playing the hero and get kicked to a pulp by the thieves the damage may be irreparable.
The same rules apply if you return to the car to find that the alarm has been activated. Be cautious; observe from a vantage point for a few minutes to make sure that the coast is clear before moving in. If the car has been broken into or vandalized, check what damage has been done before you get in and attempt to drive away. In the course of ripping out your radio or smashing their way in, the thieves may have damaged vital safety components or disconnected wires in the electrical system. The best course of action is to notify the police; they will tell you whether the car is safe and legal to drive.
Make a note of any items that have been stolen. The theft of credit cards, cheque books and cheque-guarantee cards should be reported immediately to the relevant banks and card companies so that a stop can be put on the cards’ use. In the event of your mobile telephone being taken, notify your air-time supplier so that the phone can be cut off before expensive calls are logged up. Ask them whether any calls have been made since you last used the phone — all calls are logged automatically, and the numbers dialled may provide the police with a clue to the thief’s identity.
If the keys to your house have been stolen you will need to get the locks changed as soon as possible. Inform the police immediately if there is any possibility that the thief could have found your address from anything left in the car. The neighbours are unlikely to suspect anything amiss if they see someone gaining entry to your house with a set of keys, so you should phone someone you can trust and get them to watch the house, or ask the police to send someone round.
Notify your insurance company of items stolen and any damage which has been done. Glass can often be replaced without affecting your no-claims bonus. Check the small print of your policy to see exactly what is covered and what view of the insurance company takes of your protecting the no-claims discount by failing to report a theft or accident. There have been cases of insurance companies declaring a policy invalid after discovering that the motorist concerned had failed to report a theft or act of vandalism.
The first thing to do is to make absolutely certain that you are looking in the right place. The police estimate that 10 per cent of cars reported stolen are false alarms — in reality the owner has simply forgotten where they parked the vehicle, or they have parked illegally and as a result their car has been towed away. So before you panic, check that you’ve got the right floor of the multi-storey, or the right side street, and that no parking restrictions were infringed by leaving the car where you did. If the car has been towed away there should be warning signs giving details of who to call to get your car back — upon payment of a hefty fine.
Only when you are certain that the car has been stolen should you call the police. They will need a full description of the vehicle, including the registration number, and a list items left in the car. It will be helpful if you can tell them how much fuel was left in the tank — when the tank is almost empty there’s a good chance that the car will be dumped as soon as the fuel runs out. It’s particularly important to let the police know if you left your mobile phone, credit cards, house keys, vehicle documentation or anything bearing your home address inside the car. Thieves can use registration and other documents to sell the car to an unsuspecting buyer who will have no idea it’s been stolen. Take the name and number of the police officer for insurance purposes. Notify banks, credit card companies, mobile phone operators, as appropriate. And if the house keys have been taken let your family know — the thief could drive up in your car and let himself in. The house will need to be secured and the locks changed.
As soon as possible, report the theft to your insurance company. It can take months for the claim to go through, but in the meantime you may be entitled to a hire car. Some of the more expensive alarm/immobilizer systems come with a theft warranty — provided the system was switched on at the time of the theft, you should receive a compensation payment.
Before leaving your vehicle unattended, check the following:
• The place where you have parked should be safe (well-lit, in a busy area, where it will not cause an obstruction to other vehicles or pedestrians — see Parking above) and legal.
• Credit cards, cheque cards and books, house keys, vehicle documentation (including your driver’s licence), should be on your person NOT left in the car.
• Valuable items should be removed from the car or placed out of sight in the luggage compartment. This includes removable stereo systems or those with removable front panels.
• Keys must be removed from ignition no matter how briefly the car will be left unattended.
• Steering lock should be engaged.
• All doors and windows must be secured (except in the event that an animal has been left in the car, in which case the windows should be left ajar — see Safety)
• All alarm/immobilizer systems and anti-theft devices should be set before leaving the car.
• Retract the aerial and tuck in spring-loaded wing mirrors.
Put some thought into where you park — follow these guidelines to stay safe:
Do look for an authorized car park that is well lit, supervised either by attendants or closed-circuit television cameras, with restricted entry and exit points.
Do make sure the car park will be open when you plan to return.
Do park as close as you can to the pay booth, to a CCTV camera or to a ramp where there are more likely to be other drivers. Try to park at ground level if you expect to be returning to your car late or when the car park is not busy — the top and bottom floors tend to be deserted outside peak hours. Avoid parking near pillars or large objects which someone could hide behind.
Always park near an exit to minimize the amount of time you spend walking around in the car park. Before leaving the safety of your locked car, take a look around. Don’t take risks — stay inside the car until you are certain it is safe to leave.
Do reverse into the parking space — that way you can make a quick getaway should the need arise.
Do leave plenty of room between cars so you don’t get scratched by a carelessly managed door (be careful as you open your own doors), and so that it won’t be easy for an assailant to trap you.
Don’t park next to a beaten-up looking car covered in dents and scratches. This may indicate the driver’s lack of concern for not only their vehicle but yours also.
It’s a good idea to note the number of the car next to you. That way, if you come back and find your car has been damaged you’ll have some hope of tracking down a witness, or even the culprit.
Be suspicious of anyone loitering nearby who seems to be paying close attention to your movements, they may be planning to steal the car or mug you.
Make a note of where you have parked the vehicle. Write down the level, bay, and exact spot.
Engage the steering lock, activate any security devices and secure all doors and windows. Have your belongings ready before you unlock the door and step out of the car. You’re at your most vulnerable while you’re leaning into an open doorway, intent on picking up items from the seat or dashboard. Someone can sneak up behind, give you a hefty shove which sends you sprawling into the seat, and steal your bag or briefcase.
