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Grains like barley are full of starch, a form of energy that yeast can’t ferment, so we “malt” it to make it easy for them. First, the grain is steeped in tepid water to hydrate the starch and activate the enzymes – the perfect state to sprout shoots and grow.

The process of shooting is known as germination. The seeds are left to germinate on giant, humidified warehouse floors. During this time, the tough starches break down into powdery mill that will turn to sugar during the mash. The grain is then kilned to dry it out and stop it growing into full-on barley before we can brew with it.

So far, so flavourless. It’s when we get kilning that malt gets exciting. As well as preserving the enzymes and sugar for the mash, maltsters can add colour and flavour in the kiln. The characteristics it picks up during this process play a huge part in defining a beer’s style. What follows is a simple breakdown of the malts you’ll find in a beer. It’s not a comprehensive list – there are books on the stuff – but all the other kinds are simply regional variations on these themes.

The first two are known as base malts – lighter grains that make up the majority of any malt bill. This is because they provide all the sugars and enzymes for the mash, and it only takes a tiny amount of dark malt to totally change a beer.

PILSNER MALT

Used mostly for – you guessed it – lagers, pilsner malt is the lightest of the malts because it has been kilned at such a low temperature (70-80ºC or 160ºF) that very little colour is added to the grain. Think of it like being put into stasis – nothing has really changed, and nothing will until water is reintroduced during the mash to get the chemical processes going again. Pilsner malt is bready, sweet and slightly honey-like when it’s really good stuff.

PALE ALE

Pale malt is the tiniest shade darker, thanks to being kilned a little hotter, and is the base for most modern ales including the famous American IPA. That hotter oven makes it more biscuity, though it remains sweet and pale like pilsner.

VIENNA

The malt that gives Vienna lager its name, Vienna is the first so-called “coloured” malt. It’s not too far off pale ale malt, but it’s been roasted quicker at around 110ºC (230ºF). Usually it’s used sparingly to add some toastiness, but when used in larger quantities it makes for a much darker beer – like Brooklyn Lager.

MUNICH

Munich malt is slightly unusual in that it involves the extra step of “stewing.” The grains are slowly cooked in water for around two hours at 40ºC (105ºF) to make more sugar available. It’s then quickly kilned, so the sugar caramelizes. Slightly darker than the base malts, Munich malt forms the bulk of Bocks, Märzens and many lagers where the brewer wants a little more colour and a fuller, malty flavour. Munich is also what gives ESBs their rich mouthfeel and depth. It’s not sweeter, but it’s somehow richer.

CRYSTAL

Crystal malt is made in the same way as Munich but at 60ºC (140ºF) with the malt in full-on starch-to-sugar conversion. It’s then kilned at a higher temperature to imbue the malt with a sweet, toffee-like flavour. It’s commonly used in American IPAs to balance out all the hop bitterness.

ACIDULATED MALT

Another strange one, acidulated malt is used to help turn a beer sour or lower the pH of a beer (we’ll explain why you’d want that soon). It’s made in the same way as all the other malts, except that it is either sprayed or naturally coated with lactic acid to lower its pH and taste more tart.

AMBER

You’re going to feel silly for even reading this one, but amber malt is a more toasted version of the pale ale that is used to give beers an amber hue and notes of slightly burnt toast and caramel.

BROWN

Now we’re getting into the dark malts. Brown malts are roasted to the colour of tree bark, to add a nuttiness and earthiness to beer while retaining a slight caramel note. Brown malts are used to add depth to porters, and, obviously, in brown ales.

SMOKED (Rauchmalz)

Smoked malts were made famous by the truly amazing Schlenkerla brewpub in Bamberg, Germany. Instead of kilning, producers of Rauchmalz smoke the grains over an open flame until they are dark and toasted. The best way to describe the resulting aroma is like bacon being cooked over a campfire.

CHOCOLATE

No need to tell you what colour or flavour this imparts in a beer, except to add that it can also imbue a complex coffee aroma, too. It’s not sweet at all because we reach the point of literally burning the sugar. In fact, it can add to the perceived bitterness of a beer, so you have to hop carefully after using this malt.

BLACK

Well the maltster just went and burnt it, didn’t he? I like to think this was invented when the guy in charge of the furnace got distracted (or went off for a beer). Anyway, black malt is roasted to the point of carbonising, so it adds an ashy, burnt coffee edge to the beer. It’s only ever used in tiny quantities to dry out the finish of a beer and create that sexy black colour.