Читать книгу American Staffordshire Terrier - Joseph Janish - Страница 9

OWNER CONSIDERATIONS

Although the reader of these pages is more likely interested in finding a companionable family animal than a show champion, there remain many serious factors governing your choice. A primary consideration is time, not only the time of the animal’s allotted life span, which is well over ten years, but also of the time required for you to care for, train and exercise your pet. If you are not committed to the welfare and whole existence of this energetic, purposeful animal; if, in the simplest, most basic example, you are not willing to walk your dog daily, despite the weather, do not choose an American Staffordshire Terrier as a companion.

Space is another important consideration. The American Staffordshire Terrier in early puppyhood may be well accommodated in a corner of your kitchen, but as he grows up and becomes larger and stronger, a bigger space certainly will be required. A yard with a fence is also a basic and reasonable expectation.

Along with these factors, there are the usual problems associated with puppies of any breed like the damage likely to be sustained by your floors, furniture and flower beds and, not least of all, restrictions to your freedom, as in vacations or weekend trips. This union is a serious affair and should be deeply considered but, once decided, your choice of a American Staffordshire Terrier is, perhaps, the most rewarding of all breeds. A few suggestions will help in the purchase of your dog.

Select an AmStaff puppy that is alert and friendly, showing no signs of fear or shyness.

FINDING A QUALIFIED BREEDER

Before you begin your puppy search, ask for references from your veterinarian and perhaps other breeders to refer you to someone they believe is reputable. Responsible breeders usually raise only one or two breeds of dog. Avoid any breeder who has several different breeds or has several litters at the same time. Dedicated breeders are usually involved with a breed or other dog club. Many participate in some sport or activity related to their breed. Just as you want to be assured of the breeder’s qualifications, the breeder wants to be assured that you will make a worthy owner. Expect the breeder to interview you, asking questions about your goals for the pup, your experience with dogs and what kind of home you will provide.

ACQUIRING A PUPPY

The safest method of obtaining your puppy, even if you are not looking for a show specimen, is to seek out a reputable breeder. The novice breeders and pet owners who advertise at attractive prices in the local newspapers are probably kind enough toward their dogs, but perhaps do not have the expertise or facilities required to successfully raise these animals. These pet puppies are frequently badly weaned and left with the mother too long without the supplemental feeding required by this fast-growing breed. This lack of proper feeding can cause indigestion, rickets, weak bones, poor teeth and other problems. Veterinary bills may soon distort initial savings into financial or, worse, emotional loss.

Inquire about inoculations and when the puppy was last dosed for worms. Also check the ears, as some movement forward and signs of lifting when the puppy is alerted are good predictors of normal development.

Color is a matter of personal choice, but whatever color you prefer, your puppy should have a dark nose and, preferably, dark toenails. This is a consideration of pigmentation, which should not be confused with color. American Staffordshire Terriers come in a variety of colors and patterns, so you have your choice. For health’s sake, dark eyes are best in any color. Look for expression in your puppy’s eyes, as this is a good sign of intelligence.

Note the way your choice moves. The American Staffordshire Terrier, even in puppyhood, should show light and swift movement with no tendency to stumble or drag the hind feet. Look at the mouth to make sure that the bite is fairly even and on target to develop into the proper close scissors bite, although maturity can often correct errors present at puppyhood. If you have any doubts, ask to see the parents’ mouths. This brings up an important point—do not purchase a puppy without first seeing at least one of the parents.

Of equal importance as health and physical soundness is friendly, stable temperament. Temperament is highly influenced by genetics, so be sure to meet the pup’s parents and other dogs of the breeder’s line to ensure that you are starting out with a sound personality. Raising him right is then your responsiblity!

A COMMITTED NEW OWNER

By now you should understand what makes the AmStaff a most unique and special dog, one that will fit nicely into your family and lifestyle. If you have researched breeders, you should be able to recognize a knowledgeable and responsible AmStaff breeder who cares not only about his pups but also about what kind of owner you will be. If you have completed the final step in your new journey, you have found a litter, or possibly two, of quality AmStaff pups.

A visit with the puppies and their breeder should be an education in itself. Breed research, breeder selection and puppy visitation are very important aspects of finding the puppy of your dreams. Beyond that, these things also lay the foundation for a successful future with your pup. Puppy personalities within each litter vary, from the shy and easygoing puppy to the one who is dominant and assertive, with most pups falling somewhere in between. By spending time with the puppies, you will be able to recognize certain behaviors and what these behaviors indicate about each pup’s temperament. Which type of pup will complement your family dynamics is best determined by observing the puppies in action within their “pack.” Your breeder’s expertise and recommendations are also valuable. Although you may fall in love with a bold and brassy male, the breeder may suggest that another pup would be best for you. The breeder’s experience in rearing AmStaff pups and matching their temperaments with appropriate humans offers the best assurance that your pup will meet your needs and expectations. The type of puppy that you select is just as important as your decision that the AmStaff is the breed for you.

SIGNS OF A HEALTHY PUPPY

Healthy puppies are robust little fellows who are alert and active, sporting shiny coats and supple skin. They should not appear lethargic, bloated or pot-bellied, nor should they have flaky skin or runny or crusted eyes or noses. Their stools should be firm and well formed, with no evidence of blood or mucus.

Even at a young age, the AmStaff pup should be a sturdy little dog, with straight legs and a broad chest for his size.

NEW RELEASES

Most breeders release their puppies between seven and ten weeks of age. A breeder who allows puppies to leave the litter at five or six weeks of age may be more concerned with profit than with the puppies’ welfare. On the other hand, some breeders of show or working breeds may hold one or more top-quality puppies longer, occasionally until three or four months of age, in order to evaluate the puppies’ careers or show potential and decide which one(s) they will keep for themselves.

The decision to live with an AmStaff is a serious commitment and not one to be taken lightly. This puppy is a living sentient being that will be dependent on you for basic survival for his entire life. Beyond the basics of survival—food, water, shelter and protection—he needs much, much more. The new pup needs love, nurturing and a proper canine education to mold him into a responsible, well-behaved canine citizen. Your AmStaff’s health and good manners will need consistent monitoring and regular “tune-ups,” so your job as a responsible dog owner will be ongoing throughout every stage of his life. If you are not prepared to accept these responsibilities and commit to them for at least the next decade, likely longer, then you are not prepared to own a dog of any breed.

Although the responsibilities of owning a dog may at times tax your patience, the joy of living with your AmStaff far outweighs the workload, and a well-mannered adult dog is worth your time and effort. Before your very eyes, your new charge will grow up to be your most loyal friend, devoted to you unconditionally.

YOUR AMSTAFF SHOPPING LIST

Just as expectant parents prepare a nursery for their baby, so should you ready your home for the arrival of your AmStaff pup. If you have the necessary puppy supplies purchased and in place before he comes home, it will ease the puppy’s transition from the warmth and familiarity of his mom and littermates to the brand-new environment of his new home and human family. You will be too busy to stock up and prepare your house after your pup comes home, that’s for sure! Imagine how a pup must feel upon being transported to a strange new place. It’s up to you to comfort him and to let your little pup know that he is going to be happy with you!

GETTING ACQUAINTED

When visiting a litter, ask the breeder for suggestions on how best to interact with the puppies. If possible, get right into the middle of the pack and sit down with them. Observe which pups climb into your lap and which ones shy away. Toss a toy for them to chase and bring back to you. It’s easy to fall in love with the puppy who picks you, but keep your future objectives in mind before you make your final decision.

FOOD AND WATER BOWLS

Your puppy will need separate bowls for his food and water. Stainless steel pans are generally preferred over plastic bowls since they sterilize better and pups are less inclined to chew on the metal. Heavy-duty ceramic bowls are popular, but consider how often you will have to pick up those heavy bowls. Buy adultsized pans, as your AmStaff puppy will grow into them before you know it.

PEDIGREE VS. REGISTRATION CERTIFICATE

Too often new owners are confused between these two important documents. Your puppy’s pedigree, essentially a family tree, is a written record of a dog’s genealogy of three generations or more. The pedigree will show you the names as well as performance titles of all dogs in your pup’s background. Your breeder must provide you with a registration application, with his part properly filled out. You must complete the application and send it to the AKC with the proper fee. Every puppy must come from a litter that has been AKC-registered by the breeder, born in the US and from a sire and dam that are also registered with the AKC.

The seller must provide you with complete records to identify the puppy. The AKC requires that the seller provide the buyer with the following: breed; sex, color and markings; date of birth; litter number (when available); names and registration numbers of the parents; breeder’s name; and date sold or delivered.

Good breeders provide early socialization by allowing the litter to spend some time outdoors once the pups are old enough to leave their quarters.

THE DOG CRATE

If you think that crates are tools of punishment and confinement for when a dog has misbehaved, think again. Most breeders and almost all trainers recommend a crate as the preferred house-training aid as well as for all-around puppy training and safety. Because dogs are natural den creatures that prefer cave-like environments, the benefits of crate use are many. The crate provides the puppy with his very own “safe house,” a cozy place to sleep, take a break or seek comfort with a favorite toy; a travel aid to house your dog when on the road, at motels or at the vet’s office; a training aid to help teach your puppy proper toileting habits; a place of solitude when non-dog people happen to drop by and don’t want a lively puppy—or even a well-behaved adult dog—saying hello or begging for their attention.

Crates come in several types, although the wire crate and the fiberglass airline-type crate are the most popular. Both are safe and your puppy will adjust to either one, so the choice is up to you. The wire crates offer better visibility for the pup as well as better ventilation. Many of the wire crates easily collapse into suitcase-size carriers. The fiberglass crates, similar to those used by the airlines for animal transport, are sturdier and more den-like. However, the fiberglass crates do not collapse and are less ventilated than a wire crate, which can be problematic in hot weather. Some of the newer crates are made of heavy plastic mesh; they are very lightweight and fold up into slim-line suitcases. However, a mesh crate might not be suitable for a pup with manic chewing habits.

Don’t bother with a puppy-sized crate. Although your AmStaff will be a wee fellow when you bring him home, he will grow up in the blink of an eye and your puppy crate will be useless. Purchase a crate that will accommodate an adult AmStaff. He will stand around 18 inches tall at the shoulder, so your crate should be at least 24 inches high with sufficient depth and width.

Stainless steel bowls are sturdy and easy to clean, and thus popular choices as feeding vessels for dogs of all sizes.

BEDDING AND CRATE PADS

Your puppy will enjoy some type of soft bedding in his “room” (the crate), something he can snuggle into to feel cozy and secure. Old towels or blankets are good choices for a young pup, since he may (and probably will) have a toileting accident or two in the crate or decide to chew on the bedding material. Once he is fully trained and out of the early chewing stage, you can replace the puppy bedding with a permanent crate pad if you prefer. Crate pads and other dog beds run the gamut from inexpensive to high-end doggie-designer styles, but don’t splurge on the good stuff until you are sure that your puppy is reliable and won’t tear it up or make a mess on it.

Your most important purchase for your new AmStaff is a suitable crate. The fiberglass crate is most widely used as a travel crate.

Your puppy’s crate is his place to feel safe and secure. Your AmStaff should be acclimated to the crate upon his arrival in his new home. In addition to safety, the crate is a very helpful tool for quick and effective housebreaking.

PUPPY TOYS

Just as infants and older children require objects to stimulate their minds and bodies, puppies need toys to entertain their curious brains, wiggly paws and achy teeth. A fun array of safe doggie toys will help satisfy your puppy’s chewing instincts and distract him from gnawing on the leg of your antique chair or your new leather sofa. Most puppy toys are cute and look as if they would be a lot of fun, but not all are necessarily safe or good for your puppy, so use caution when you go puppy-toy shopping.

AmStaffs have very strong teeth and jaws, even as puppies. Remember, strong teeth and jaws are a breed hallmark. The best “chewcifiers” are nylon and hard rubber bones; most are safe to gnaw on and come in sizes appropriate for all age groups and breeds. Be sure to pick toys designed for strong chewers. Be especially careful of natural bones, which can splinter or develop dangerous sharp edges; pups can easily swallow or choke on those bone splinters. Veterinarians often tell of surgical nightmares involving bits of splintered bone because, in addition to the danger of choking, the sharp pieces can damage the dog’s intestinal tract.

The three main types of dog crates: fabric mesh, left; firerglass, top; wire, right.

Similarly, rawhide chews, while a favorite of most dogs and puppies, can be equally dangerous. Pieces of rawhide are easily swallowed after they get all gummy from chewing, and dogs have been known to choke on large pieces of ingested rawhide. Rawhide chews should be offered only when you can supervise the puppy.

TOYS ‘R SAFE

The vast array of tantalizing puppy toys is staggering. Stroll through any pet shop or pet-supply outlet and you will see that the choices can be overwhelming. However, not all dog toys are safe or sensible. Most very young puppies enjoy soft woolly toys that they can snuggle with and carry around. (You know they have outgrown them when they shred them up!) Avoid toys that have buttons, tabs or other enhancements that can be chewed off and swallowed. Soft toys that squeak are fun, but make sure your puppy does not disembowel the toy and remove (and swallow) the squeaker. Toys that rattle or make noise can excite a puppy, but they present the same danger as the squeaky kind and so require supervision. Hard rubber toys that bounce can also entertain a pup, but make sure that the toy is too big for your pup to swallow.

Soft woolly toys are special puppy favorites. They come in a wide variety of cute shapes and sizes; some look like little stuffed animals. Puppies love to shake them up and toss them about, or simply carry them around. Be careful of fuzzy toys that have button eyes or noses that your pup could chew off and swallow, and make sure that he does not disembowel a squeaky toy to remove the squeaker! Braided rope toys are similar in that they are fun to chew and toss around, but they shred easily and the strings are easy to swallow. The strings are not digestible and, if the puppy doesn’t pass them in his stool, he could end up at the vet’s office. As with rawhides, your puppy should be closely monitored with rope toys.

If you believe that your pup has ingested one of these forbidden objects, check his stools for the next couple of days to see if he passes them when he defecates. At the same time, also watch for signs of intestinal distress. A call to your veterinarian might be in order to get his advice and be on the safe side.

An all-time favorite toy for puppies (young and old!) is the empty gallon milk jug. Hard plastic juice containers—46 ounces or more—are also excellent. Such containers make lots of noise when they are batted about, and puppies go crazy with delight as they play with them. However, they don’t last very long, so be sure to remove and replace them as soon as they get chewed up.

A word of caution about homemade toys: be careful with your choices of non-traditional play objects. Never use old shoes or socks, since a puppy cannot distinguish between the old ones on which he’s allowed to chew and the new ones in your closet that are strictly off limits. That principle applies to anything that resembles something that you don’t want your puppy to chew.

TEETHING TIME

All puppies chew. It’s normal canine behavior. Chewing just plain feels good to a puppy, especially during the three-to five-month teething period when the adult teeth are breaking through the gums. Rather than attempting to eliminate such a strong natural chewing instinct, you will be more successful if you redirect it and teach your puppy what he may or may not chew. Correct inappropriate chewing with a sharp “No!” and offer him a chew toy, praising him when he takes it. Don’t become discouraged. Chewing usually decreases after the adult teeth have come in, but AmStaffs always need the sturdiest of toys made for the strongest of dogs—think “indestructible.”

Puppies will chew on anything—don’t let yourself become a chew toy! Safe, strong toys encourage proper chewing and distract the pup from nipping and chewing forbidden objects.

COLLARS

A lightweight nylon collar is the best choice for a very young pup. Quick-clip collars are easy to put on and remove, and they can be adjusted as the puppy grows. Introduce him to his collar as soon as he comes home to get him accustomed to wearing it. He’ll get used to it quickly and won’t mind a bit. Make sure that it is snug enough that it won’t slip off, yet loose enough to be comfortable for the pup. You should be able to slip two fingers between the collar and his neck. Check the collar often, as puppies grow in spurts, and his collar can become too tight almost overnight. Choke collars are for training purposes only and should never be used on a puppy under five months old.

LEASHES

A 6-foot nylon lead is an excellent choice for a young puppy. It is lightweight and not as tempting to chew as a leather lead. You can switch to a 6-foot leather lead after your pup has grown and is used to walking politely on a lead. For initial puppy walks and house-training purposes, you should invest in a shorter lead so that you have more control over the puppy. At first, you don’t want him wandering too far away from you and, when taking him out for toileting, you will want to keep him in the specific area chosen for his potty spot.

COLLARING OUR CANINES

The standard flat collar with a buckle or a snap, in leather, nylon or cotton, is widely regarded as the everyday all-purpose collar. If the collar fits correctly, you should be able to fit two fingers between the collar and the dog’s neck.

The martingale, Greyhound or limited-slip collar is preferred by many dog owners and trainers. It is fixed with an extra loop that tightens when pressure is applied to the leash. The martingale collar gets tighter but does not “choke” the dog. The limited-slip collar should only be used for walking and training, not for free play or interaction with another dog. This type of collar should never be left on the dog, as the extra loop can lead to accidents.

Choke collars, usually made of stainless steel, are made for training purposes, though are not recommended for small dogs or heavily coated breeds. The chains can injure small dogs or damage long/abundant coats. Thin nylon choke leads are commonly used on show dogs while in the ring, though they are not practical for everyday use.

The harness, with two or three straps that attach over the dog’s shoulders and around his torso, is a humane and safe alternative to the conventional collar. By and large, a well-made harness is virtually escape-proof. Harnesses are available in nylon and mesh and can be outfitted on most dogs with chest girths ranging from 10 to 30 inches.

A head collar, composed of a nylon strap that goes around the dog’s muzzle and a second strap that wraps around his neck, offers the owner better control over his dog. This device is recommended for problem-solving with dogs (including jumping up, pulling and aggressive behaviors), but must be used with care.

A training halter, including a flat collar and two straps, made of nylon and webbing, is designed for walking. There are several on the market; some are more difficult to put on the dog than others. The halter harness, with two small slip rings at each end, is recommended for ease of use.

A flexible lead is a possible option for walking adult AmStaffs that are already leash-wise. This type of leash is not typically recommended for powerful breeds, so you must be 100% sure that your AmStaff will behave well on a flexible leash. The “flexi” allows the dog to roam farther away from you and explore a wider area when out walking, and also retracts when you need to keep him close to you.

HOME SAFETY FOR YOUR PUPPY

The importance of puppy-proofing cannot be overstated. In addition to making your house comfortable for your AmStaff’s arrival, you also must make sure that your house is safe for your puppy before you bring him home. There are countless hazards in the owner’s personal living environment that a pup can sniff, chew, swallow or destroy. Many are obvious; others are not. Do a thorough advance house check to remove or rearrange those things that could hurt your puppy, keeping any potentially dangerous items out of areas to which he will have access.

Tonny van Zantvliet with her AmStaff named Lady. Lady has been trained to heel and behave politely on lead, so important with a powerful strong breed.

LEASH LIFE

Dogs love leashes! Believe it or not, most dogs dance for joy every time their owners pick up their leashes. The leash means that the dog is going for a walk—and there are few things more exciting than that! Here are some of the kinds of leashes that are commercially available.

Traditional Leash: Made of cotton, nylon or leather, these leashes are usually about 6 feet in length. A quality-made leather leash is softer on the hands than a nylon one. Durable woven cotton is a popular option. Lengths can vary up to about 48 feet, designed for different uses.

Chain Leash: Usually a metal chain leash with a plastic handle. This is not the best choice for most breeds, as it is heavier than other leashes and difficult to manage.

Retractable Leash: A long nylon cord is housed in a plastic device for extending and retracting. This leash, also known as a flexible leash, is ideal for taking trained dogs for long walks in open areas, although it is not recommended for large, powerful breeds. Different lengths and sizes are available, so check that you purchase one appropriate for your dog’s weight.

Elastic Leash: A nylon leash with an elastic extension. This is useful for well-trained dogs, especially in conjunction with a head halter.

Avoid leashes that are completely elastic, as they afford minimal control to the handler.

Adjustable Leash: This has two snaps, one on each end, and several metal rings. It is handy if you need to tether your dog temporarily, but is never to be used with a choke collar.

Tab Leash: A short leash (4 to 6 inches long) that attaches to your dog’s collar. This device serves like a handle, in case you have to grab your dog while he’s exercising off lead. It’s ideal for “half-trained” dogs or dogs that only listen half the time.

Slip Leash: Essentially a leash with a collar built in, similar to what a dog-show handler uses to show a dog. This British-style collar has a ring on the end so that you can form a slip collar. Useful if you have to catch your own runaway dog or a stray.