Читать книгу High-Performance Differentials, Axles, and Drivelines - Joseph Palazzolo - Страница 8

INTRODUCTION

My first experience repairing axles was a front axle on a 1981 Buick Riviera. This was quickly followed by numerous Mustang 7.5- and 8.8-inch rear axles and then GM 10- and 12-bolt axles. There have been countless repairs of vehicles since then.

It seems that rear axles are a bit of a mystery even to the most seasoned mechanics. While we are comfortable with engines, brakes, and suspension, few are at home with rear axles. I’m not certain why this is the case—most axles only require minor maintenance to be trouble-free. Perhaps mechanics don’t get enough practice to stay sharp or maybe it stems from a bad experience of working on an axle. Either way, most shops do not like working on them.

My intention is to help you understand the theory and practice of rear axles. With this information, you can determine if you want to tackle your axle repair yourself. If you come to the conclusion that you would like someone else to perform the work, then at least you will understand what is involved and how to find a good shop. Rear axles are the only part of a car that utilizes a hypoid gear set. This requires some special training, tools, and skill to work on correctly. That being said, it is not beyond most competent mechanics and even the weekend repair person. It does call for attention to details and a large amount of patience.

In addition to providing some information to allow you to diagnose and repair your driveline, I also want to explain some of the terms that are used. I have found that many of the issues surrounding understanding rear axles can be traced back to simple lack of knowledge of the terms and what they mean. It can be very difficult to communicate with someone when you do not understand the language that they are using.

As you have modified your engine and transmission and probably had an axle failure, you probably have heard all types of recommendations. For example, “You need 4.10s with 35-tooth spline axles and a locker.” My hope is that this book helps you decide if 4.10s make sense based on your vehicle’s transmission ratios, tire size, and intended usage. Do you really need 35-tooth spline axle shafts? Make certain that the upgrades you make meet your end objectives and your aren’t just wasting your hard-earned time and money. Even if you do not do the work yourself, you need to be able to assess the shop that is giving you advice and service.

With the advent of the Internet, much free advice is available and often pushed. I caution you that, at times, the advice is worth what you paid for it.

I must also make an admission before going too far. I started out as a mechanic and while this is still my hobby, my formal schooling is as an engineer. As an engineer, I tend to explain theory and how it can be reinforced with math. The math in this book is there to help explain and reinforce the topics, but don’t panic if math is not your strong point. The topics and repairs discussed can be understood if you decide to skip the math. For example, in Chapter 6 I discuss hypoid gearing and manufacturing. Chapter 6 should be a reference for any future repairs regarding hypoids. My intent is to provide information that you won’t find in a normal shop manual while still covering the shop manual fundamentals. That being said, a manual on your own specific differential and driveline will be helpful, but I’ve gone to great lengths to pack as much information into the text and make sure that all of the facts are correct.

So when someone provides you with good advice like, “A Ford 9-inch is the best way to go for your car,” be a little leery and do your own research to get the best solution for your needs. This book will be your guide for determining whether that’s true or not. The key is to enjoy the work and, with the help of this book, achieve great results.