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Dance and Prance

Dance clubs in Tokyo are bandits of the night. It is easy to get a license for liquor in Japan, but impossible to get a license for dancing after midnight. About 15 years ago, three teenage girls were picked up in a disco in Shinjuku after midnight and subsequently became the victims of rape and murder. By some inscrutable logic, dancing after midnight was therefore made illegal. For this reason many clubs will cite their closing time as midnight—even if they've just told you that they open at 11 p.m. If they openly flaunt their hours, then you'll know that they are paying the right people (and you'll be safe). Because of this law and the paranoia associated with it, the hours listed in this section may not match reality.

Whether legal or not, dance clubs are dependent on their DJs. They set the mood and create a following. Many boppers choose a club because a specific DJ is playing. Everybody is fussy about what will flick their switch and get them dancing, so many clubs feature different DJs on different nights to try and reach as wide an audience as possible. The fads and favorites never remain fixed for long. DJs come and go like the songs they play. Clubs that move with the market are always the freshest, but they are also the hardest to pin down. Small underground groups of kids sometimes set up a venue for a few months. They really hop for a while, then fly-by-night, but they're the coolest if you can find them.

Bland, prepackaged clubs have not been included. Take the excruciatingly boring Maharaja chain, for example. It will never change, so I can tell you exactly what you're not missing. You'll find snooty staff who behave like they're doing you a favor when they take your money at the door, lousy service even if you manage to get the bartender's attention, incredibly uninspired music, and unimaginative patrons who sway in front of mirrors and call it dancing. Even if you get VIP-room treatment, the atmosphere will be the same. These are the sort of clubs that hire sakura — a young couple whose job is to break the ice on the dance floor once guests start to arrive. No one wants to be first in this kind of bland clubland.

Another phenomenon which I have avoided is the menu approach to partying. The Nittaku Building in Roppongi has five floors of clubs all owned by the same company. When they entered the leisure industry they decided to hedge their bets and put a different genre club on each floor of the building. This vertical structuring runs oddly perpendicular to the idea of changing your DJs throughout the week. Each floor is a prepackaged party hell. Hitting a button in the elevator is like ordering from a vending machine. If you want disco, hit the B2 button. If you want 50s/ 60s, hit 2. If you want Latin, hit 3, etc. The aftertaste is as unappetizing as its fast-food equivalent.

The important thing is to plug in. The clubs I have omitted are easy to find—they advertise. The clubs I have listed will give you leads into Tokyo's real party core, so gear up and get ready for the meltdown.

The Deep

This is a fairly quirky venue in that it is only open on the weekend. During the week it is a gallery featuring exhibitions by up-and-coming local and foreign photographers. On the weekend, someone will occasionally organize an underground film festival of the Russ Myers/John Waters ilk. These tend to run in the early evening and then the club kicks in around ten or eleven p.m. By midnight the star DJs hit the turntables and a few seriously cool regulars start drifting in to dance. Although it appears in club listings, it is generally a very tight clique of partiers who come here to while away the morning. This is partly because it is very hard to find—but now you have a map. I will add a warning to this—it is not a pickup joint and it is a very tight, underground group of people who come here. So, unless you're as committed to cool as the concrete that lines the walls in this place, you probably won't enjoy it. They serve imported beer in cans, including Grolsch.

Open from 11 p.m. till 5 a.m.

every Friday and the 1st and 4th

Saturday of the month.

Suzuki Bldg. B1F,

8-12-15 Akasaka,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3796-0925

¥¥

Cleo Palazzi

If you're a young African-American male who loves Japanese girls or if you're a cool white dude who knows his way around the ghetto, this is the club for you. They have the best local and foreign DJs spinning the funkiest rap and hip-hop you'll hear in this city. Men go to dance and party but they also go to pick up girls—so know the score or take a chaperone. The interior is completely black as are most of the clientele. There were only half a dozen white or Hispanic faces there last time I went, and even though I had a brother as an escort, he was asked (not me!) whether I was available. Loads of Japanese women (not girls) hang out here too— yellow cabs who've decided to save the fare to New York. It's a skanking scene and well worth it if you think you've got what it takes to cut it in this sort of clubland. If the bartenders are genki, they will break into a routine when their favorite vinyl hits the turntable. You can keep your eyes wide open and still not feel like you're in Tokyo.

Open from 8 p.m. till 4 a.m. on

Friday and Saturday only.

3-18-2 Roppongi BlF,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3586-8494

¥¥¥

Eros

The only way to describe this place is as a total dive. The young and manic will find it extremely appealing, but unless you fall into this category I would advise that you give it a miss. It is dark, dingy, and covered with black-light graffiti. The walls are misshapen, evolving here and there into various seamy-smelling, cave-like grottos as they branch off the central dance floor. One of these nasty little caverns houses a large unadorned bed, which obviously inspired the club's "Lovenest" tag. This is Tokyo, however, and I have yet to witness or hear that it has been put to any use other than sitting. It gets totally packed on the weekend with the cream of Tokyo's wasted youth, who flock here to bop to machine-gun metered techno-house music. You would gain valuable cultural insights were you to conduct an anthropological study of Japan's shinjinrui on these premises. This is the kind of place that parents hate but kids count the days till they can go again.

Open from 8 p.m. till 12 a.m.

Sunday to Tuesday and on

Thursday, and till 5 a.m. on

Friday, Saturday, and

Wednesday.

Uchida Bldg. B1F,

4-12-6 Roppongi,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3404-5531

¥¥¥

J Trip End Max

The J Trip conglomerate runs the hippest chain of clubs in this city and this one is their best. It is a very cool dance venue patronized by young, fun, and funky locals and a sprinkling of gaijin who have already infiltrated. It is also big. The second basement houses a large dance floor where you can bop till you drop—and that's what you'll want to do when the DJs are really cooking. The interior on this floor is suitably industrial with bare concrete walls and a small hideaway bar area at one end. Upstairs you will find a more subdued and comfortable atmosphere with low tables and couches where you can take a break from the frantic pace below. They play a lot of classic funk, soul, and rock on this floor, so you may not want to stop dancing if you go upstairs for a break. It does make a nice retreat from the blood-boiling thumpety-thump house music downstairs, though. This is one of the few clubs in Tokyo that almost achieves that dark, heady, and mysterious New York feel.

Open from 7 p.m. till 2 a.m.

Sunday to Thursday and till 5

a.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Hara Bldg B1F & B2F,

3-4-18 Higashi-azabu,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3586-0639

¥¥¥

Java Jive

In my hall of fame for staying power, this venue rates an honorable mention. It is still going strong after the best part of a decade—in fact, it's predecesor in the same space managed an equally long stint. On the weekend, this large two-story basement venue attracts a faithful flow of expats, models, GIs, and some brave new local adventurers. Because of the club's norowdies-allowed door policy, it is a reasonably well-behaved group of partiers who end up thronging the dance floor and bar areas until closing. The walls are swathed in cute island-inspired graphics featuring repetitious silhouettes of dancing girls in grass skirts. A rough-hewn staircase connects the club's two interior floors, but its unevenness requires some negotiation after a few drinks. They used to have a novel sand-pit dance floor, but the band complained of sore throats so it was removed. Live reggae starts from eight p.m. with DJs dishing up an excellent mix of house and Latin dance favorites in between sets.

Open from 6 p.m. till 5 a.m.

every day.

Square Bldg. B1F & B2F,

3-10-3 Roppongi,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3478-0087

¥¥¥

Cave

Unpredictability has been this venue's middle name since it opened a few years ago. Nothing ever stays the same, but the heaves and sighs of a changing clientele are almost audible in this club. The nuts and bolts of the place make going here worthwhile, so to avoid disappointment in terms of who else you might find, I suggest taking your own group of party people. Two sizable black-as-night dance floors and an excellent range of DJs throughout the week make dancing here a highly contagious and deliciously addictive activity. The darkness quotient also makes it a great place to brush up your steps if you are at all shy. One of the only drawbacks is the club's relatively small mezzanine bar area. Sweaty, dehydrated escapees from the dance floor practically line the length of the interior waiting for some relief. But, as the dance floors are so dark, this will be your only opportunity to check out who's there. Despite its variability, it remains a fairly hip place to hang out.

Open from 8 p.m. till 3 a.m.

Sunday to Thursday and from 7

p.m. till 5 a.m. on Friday and

Saturday.

M&I Bldg. B1F & B2F,

34-6 Udagawa-cho,

Shibuya-ku.

(03) 3780-0715

¥¥

J Trip Bar Dance Factory

This venue offers a unique opportunity for firsthand observation of the Shibu-kaji (Shibuya casual) set— that mob of Japanese youngsters who dedicate their lives to the L.L. Bean catalog, but who think they are assuming a kind of Californian cool. This sociological offshoot from Tokyo's ever-evolving selfish youth have found (or rather created) their niche in this basement dance hall. Don't be fooled by the colorful psychedelic retro-60s murals all over the walls—you won't see too many punters who match the decor. The crowd depends on the night but they always tend toward young. Various DJs have regular slots on different nights of the week ranging in bias from soul to neo-surfer music—so check ahead to make sure. On the weekend, you can get down to a suitably mixed bag of hyper dance and disco. No bogus place this, dudes. There are not many dance clubs worth knowing about in Shibuya besides this one and Cave, so people pile in on the weekend.

Open from 6 p.m. till 12 a.m.

Sunday to Thursday and later on

Friday and Saturday.

Kokusai Bldg. B1F & B2F,

3-16 Udagawa-cho,

Shibuya-ku.

(03) 3780-0639

¥¥¥

Lexington Queen

The Lex first flung its doors open in the days when there were few party alternatives and has survived through the demise of all its original competitors. Part of the reason for its longevity is that it is actively co-hosted by this city's most seasoned social diplomat— Bill Hersey. The club is inconsistent in terms of party voltage, but because of Bill's strong Hollywood and Billboard ties, he frequently throws parties for visiting celebrities. You will occasionally run into a real movie star or the members of a flavor-of-the-month heavy metal band hanging out at the bar. The place was swamped with fans both inside and out the night Guns'n'Roses dropped by. The decor is getting a bit shabby these days and could definitely do with freshening up. Also, the dance floor is backed by revolving mirrored panels, so if you have long hair or are wearing flowing clothes, don't get too close—you might end up as part of the light show Isadora Duncan style. Models with composites get in free.

Open from 6 p.m. till at least 12

a.m. every day.

Urban Bldg. B1F,

7-13-2 Roppongi,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3401-1661/3475-0672

¥¥

J Trip "Wanna Dance?"

This used to be an exclusive members-only club but the owners recently reopened in a funkier public-access vein. With Tokyo's economic future hanging in limbo, people are less willing to throw their money into expensive club memberships and are now more inclined to pay as they play. The interior was revamped by Koshin Sato, who recently redid the Paladium in New York. He has managed to create a suitably dark yet playful effect by injecting some very colorful neo-pop highlights into the furnishings. An impossibly large raffia-like flower looms over the dance floor and bright donut-shaped cushions decorate the lockers. The dance floor is not enormous but seems to accommodate everyone, especially since the Drug Store opened upstairs and stole the drink and mingle crowd. The darkness quotient makes some of the stairs fairly treacherous, so be warned. They feature an excellent range of DJs and music throughout the week, so drop by and pick up a schedule.

Open from 7 p.m. till 5 a.m.

Sunday to Thursday and till 8

a.m. on Friday and Saturday.

The Wall B1F & B2F,

4-2-4 Nishi-azabu,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3409-7607

¥¥¥

Juliana's

Wembley Japan, part of an international leisure specialist group, made sure they did their homework before opening their Tokyo club. The Japanese like a little pomp, splendor, and snob value when they step out in the evening. Appropriately aloof door people wearing snappy shoulder-padded jackets and wireless headsets control admittance. The entry is like the airlock in a spaceship. Tendrils of dry ice from the laser show inside enfold you as you enter the enormous belly of the beast beyond. A large central dance floor is flanked by ringside viewing and dancing platforms with adjacent bar and seating areas. Mezzanine VIP lounges are strategically located in see-and-be-seen corners. A host of international staff, including DJs and lively dancers, are employed by the club to pump up the vibe—and they do. The only drawback is the clientele. They tend to be a very average Homat and salaryman/OL mob, but maybe that's because it's so expensive. Don't forget your wallet.

Open from 6:30 p.m. till 12 a.m.

every day.

1-13-10 Shiba-ura,

Minato-ku.

(03) 5484-4000

¥¥¥¥¥

DJ Bar Ink Stick

In spite of the fact that this club is located on the top of a fairly modern building in Shibuya, it feels like a converted barn on somebody's lower forty. It is a big, dimly-lit, and sparsely furnished space with a bar down one side and a DJ booth in one corner. Whoever decorated the interior scores high marks for originality. The entire roof is hung with an interesting assortment of hats, like an upside-down mushroom farm, and the walls are variously covered with collections of hubcaps, wooden boot-sizers, and masks. I've put this venue in the Dance and Prance chapter because of its size and potential, but the average habitue tends to just sit and drink. Don't waste this dance space, Tokyo! It is plugged into the cool and groovy DJ circuit with all the familiar names appearing on the schedule. The music ranges from reggae to mod, which draws an impressive lineup of retro step-throughs out front. It's a little bit cool on an average night, but could definitely handle some heat.

Open from 6 p.m. till 2 a.m.

Sunday to Friday, and till 4 a.m.

on Saturday.

Campari Bldg. 4F,

1-6-8 Jinnan,

Shibuya-ku.

(03) 3496-0782

¥¥

328

Nishi-azabu is becoming increasingly populated with bars, but this one has been here virtually unchanged for a decade. It's entrance, which has unexpected stairs and doors, is extremely hard to negotiate, so watch your step if you're a bit drunk or if it's your first time. Once through this initial obstacle course, you will find a large glassed-in room with an interestingly-shaped solid-wood bar running down its length. Beyond this is a DJ booth and dance area. They have made good use of some of their former record collection by plastering the walls with LPs—some of them are quite new, too. It is very quiet during the week and highly variable on the weekend, but it is best placed in this chapter because that's what they're aiming at. The DJs have a less stylized approach to their playlists, adding more rock and funk than other stuck-on-house clubs. They occasionally feature a soul night during the week, which makes it an excellent place for a late-night drink and a bop or a foot tap.

Open from 8 p.m. till 4 a.m.

from Monday to Thursday, till 5

a.m. on Friday and Saturday,

and till 3 a.m. on Sunday.

Kotsu Anzen Center Bldg. B1F,

3-24-20 Nishi-azabu,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3401-4968

¥¥

Yellow

The owners of a very popular late-night dance venue called Club Next decided to close down and reopen in a new and larger venue around the corner. This is Yellow. It's big, it's dark, and it's popular. The dance floor is spacious but quickly fills up, generating enough body heat to compete with high noon in midsummer. A mezzanine bar and seating area overlooks the flesh-pit below, but when it's really crowded there is no escape from the heat. Lockers get scarce early and the coat check is usually full, so if you plan to get there late don't take a lot of gear with you. A few tragic teenagers camp in the stairwell waiting for the first train, but for the most part, it is a very hip and very cool cross section of Tokyo which comes here to dance till dawn. They feature excellent local and international DJs playing the latest house and dance hits from around the world, and also host a wide variety of events, including some live and gay nights. The best idea is to drop by and pick up a schedule.

Open from 9 p.m. till 5 a.m. or

later every night. Sometimes

closed on Sunday.

Cesaurus Bldg. B1F & B2F,

1-10-11 Nishi-azabu,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3479-0690

¥¥¥

Zoo

Though Shimo-kitazawa features very few dance clubs making Zoo the unchallenged winner, this venue would hold its own when compared to many Roppongi clubs. It has evolved as the headquarters of Tokyo's truly cool and very young up-and-coming clubbing crowd. This place has atmosphere, but not the sort of superficial attitudinizing you find in Tokyo's mega-clubs. It's an almost tangible and slightly brooding atmosphere that hangs in the air like the sulk on a teenager's face—desperate to be recognized but slightly unsure of asserting itself. These kids have definitely got potential. Foreigners are not uncommon, but they are mostly low-budget western-suburb ghettoites who are similarly young and living on the edge. You'll find no high rolling or high heels in this club. Some say Tuesday is best, some say Thursday, but just like a teenager's mood this can change on a dime. So go check it out, but if you're over 25 be prepared to feel like a grandparent.

Open from 8 p.m. till 4 a.m.

every day. Open from 9 p.m. on

live nights.

Central Bldg. B1F,

2-14-7 Kitazawa,

Setagaya-ku.

(03) 3413-2266/3413-2428

¥¥

Pickford Live Hall

This is definitely a dancing venue. Though the club itself is not very big its value is enormous if you prefer your music live. Two very polished bands take turns delivering cover versions of the latest hits from the dance charts with a few funky favorites thrown in for good measure. The lineup of performers includes Americans, Africans, Filipinos, and Japanese, but regardless of who is up on stage at any given point, you are sure to be entertained with very slick show-time renditions of some of your favorite dance tunes. It is well-run and reasonably well-appointed. The dance floor could be bigger, but here as with everywhere else, this only seems to be a problem on the weekend. The price is a little steep for your average punter—¥3,000 at the door does not include drinks. So, if you have some fun-loving business pals in town on an expense account for a few days, they would not be disappointed with a night out here. Even if you treat yourself, it would be well worth every penny.

Open from 8 p.m. till 5 a.m.

Monday to Saturday. Closed on

Sunday.

Roppongi Raidick Bldg. B1F,

4-11-13 Roppongi,

Minato-ku.

(03)3423-1628

¥¥¥¥

Ink Stick Suzue Factory

The original Ink Stick was a very small but very chic downstairs club near the Boecho. That venue has since become a flamenco bar but Ink Stick has moved on to bigger and better things. The Suzue Factory is a large, modern, well-designed split-level club featuring interesting local bands and a variety of overseas acts ranging from jazz through ska to hip-hop. Quality live music has always been a priority. The entrepreneurial insight of the management in the days of the original venue led to Sade's first break in Japan. The decor is refined and the lighting subdued. The first floor is set up for dancing and mingling while the mezzanine is furnished with tables and chairs overlooking the stage. Separate bars service each level. If you go on a live night, the crowd will vary according to the band both in terms of who goes and how many people. But, if you drop by midweek on a non-live night, you'll pretty much have the place to yourself. This is definitely one of Tokyo's more up-market venues.

Open from 6 p.m. till 11:30 p.m.

every day, and till 4 a.m. on live

and event nights.

Suzue Baydium Bldg. IF & 2F,

1-15-1 Kaigan,

Minato-ku.

(03)3434-1677

¥¥/¥¥¥

Buzz

This was the boppers' choice of disco when it first opened a couple of years ago. Lots of local Bobby Brown impersonators clad in baggy suits and Doc Martin's flocked here in droves. They pranced about in front of their favorite music videos like religious supplicants imitating the movements of their gods. The club manages to maintain a following because of its reasonably large dance floor and giant video screens. It is extremely young and crowded on the weekend, but sparse enough during the week to comfortably accommodate your mom and dad—this would be a safe choice were they interested in sampling some of Tokyo's nightlife. All the staff graduated from the same too-cool-to-fool school of catering from which Roppongi's prepackaged discos hire. They are efficient and attentive, if a little snooty—just the sort of treatment that impresses moms and dads, but who else? The floor is a little uneven in places (especially around the tables), so watch your feet.

Open from 6 p.m. till 5 a.m.

every day.

Square Bldg. 5F,

3-10-3 Roppongi,

Minato-ku.

(03) 3470-0088

¥¥¥