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PART 1

THE CENTRAL BALKAN NATIONAL PARK

Cascade in valley of Kostina Reka along trail to Hizha Benkovski (Walk 1)

INTRODUCTION

With stern and frowning brow, behind a cloak of cloud, The Balkan Range arises in the distance, high and proud…

Pencho Slaveykov, The Song of Blood (1913)

Topography

Stretching right across Bulgaria for about 520km, from the Serbian border in the west to Cape Emine on the Black Sea coast in the east, the Stara Planina (meaning ‘old mountains’), or Balkan Mountains as they are often known, form the backbone of Bulgaria, both physically as well as in the nation’s psyche. The range as a whole covers an area of some 11,600km2, about one-tenth of Bulgaria’s total land mass, and has 29 peaks that top 2000m.

The Stara Planina comprises many individual massifs, which geographers group into three distinct sections. The Western Stara Planina extends for 190km between the Belogradchik pass and Zlatitsa pass and includes four peaks over 2000m, of which Midzhar (2168m) is the highest. Beyond the Zlatitsa pass begins the Central Stara Planina. This stretches for a distance of 185km, as far as the Vratnik pass, and boasts 25 peaks over 2000m, including Botev (2376m), the highest summit of the entire range. The final section is the Eastern Stara Planina, which runs for 155km between the Vratnik pass and Cape Emine. This is the lowest section of the range, scarcely topping 1000m. Its highest top is Balgarka (1181m).

On the main ridge of the Stara Planina at the edge of the Tsarichina Reserve (Walk 1, Day 2)

Founded in 1991, the Central Balkan national park, as its name suggests, is located in heart of the Central Stara Planina, covering an 85km stretch of the main ridge. It is the second largest protected territory in Bulgaria, with a total area of 71,670ha, and encompasses the three highest and wildest massifs of the range, the Zlatishko-Tetevenska Planina, Troyanska Planina and Kaloferska Planina, including 20 of the Stara Planina’s 2000m peaks. About 60 per cent of the national park is covered in forest, while the rest comprises a patchwork of high-mountain meadows, pastures and rock outcrops.

There are nine nature reserves within the boundaries of the national park, accounting for about 30 per cent of its total area. These are the Boatin, Tsarichina, Kozya Stena, Steneto, Stara Reka, Dzhendema, Severen Dzhendem, Peeshtite Skali and Sokolna reserves. In 2003 the Central Balkan national park became the fourth national park in Europe to be awarded the prestigious title PAN park, recognising it as the best of Europe’s wilderness. A PAN park offers real wilderness with outstanding nature and high-quality tourism facilities, well balanced with wilderness protection and sustainable local development. See www.panparks.org.

Geology

The name Stara Planina – ‘old mountains’ – is something of a misnomer, as this is in fact the youngest mountain range in the country, one of the so-called ‘new fold-mountains’ that were uplifted at the same time as the Alps and Himalayas as a result of tectonic pressures from the south. As a whole, the Central Balkan national park has a complex geological history and structure, and this helps to give the region its charm, and an ever-changing succession of landscapes. In places the main ridge is narrow, bristling with rugged peaks, its flanks lined with cliffs and pierced by deeply cut valleys. Elsewhere it is broad and mellow, with gently domed summits separated by shallow grassy saddles, the slopes swathed by pastures and ancient forests

Granites and crystalline schist are the dominant types of rock, most apparent in the highest parts of the range, where they burst to the surface along the backbone of the ridge like an array of jagged vertebrae. However, there are also sandstones, gneiss and marls, as well as a small but striking area of karst limestone. This forms the heart of the Steneto Reserve, where the river Cherni Osam has carved out a dramatic gorge flanked by cave-studded cliffs and precipices. Here is Raychova Dupka, which at 377m is the deepest cave in Bulgaria.

Hydrology

Running right across Bulgaria from west to east, the Stara Planina forms part of one of the most important watersheds on the Balkan Peninsula, dividing rivers between the Black Sea and Aegean basins. Rivers running down north from the mountains flow towards the Danube, and hence into the Black Sea, while those that drop south feed into the Maritsa and eventually out into the Aegean Sea. The main rivers of the Black Sea basin originating in the Central Balkan national park are the Vit, Osam, Vidima and Rositsa, while the most important rivers of the Aegean basin are the Topolnitsa, Stryama and Tundzha.

The Central Balkan national park has only one small lake, Saragyol (‘the yellow pool’), which lies tucked in at the southern foot of the peaks Malak Kupen and Golyam Kupen in the Kaloferska Planina. However, the national park is rich in streams on both sides of the watershed. The upper reaches of these streams tend to be steep and fast flowing, frequently cascading over rocks, and in several places plunging over high precipices to form beautiful waterfalls which are known locally as praskala (sprinklers). These include Karlovsko Praskalo, Babsko Praskalo, Kademliysko Praskalo and Raysko Praskalo, the latter being the highest waterfall in Bulgaria, with a drop of 125m. The majority of waterfalls are found tumbling down the southern flank of the mountains, but there is one major waterfall, Vidimsko Praskalo, which is located on the northern flank of the ridge in the Severen Dzhendem Reserve.

Cascade along the trail to hizha Dobrila (Walk 2, Day 2)

Climate

Not surprisingly, on account of its west–east alignment across the length of Bulgaria, the Stara Planina forms a significant climatic barrier whose influence is felt throughout the country. The northern slopes of the range experience a moderate-continental climate, while the southern slopes experience a transitional-continental climate with some Mediterranean influences. Within the Central Balkan national park itself, factors such as altitude and slope exposition also have a profound influence on the local micro-climate.

The average annual temperature within the national park is 7°C, but this figure is lower at higher altitudes, dropping to between zero and 2°C at altitudes above 2000m. Summer temperatures are often surprisingly warm, with a July average varying between 16°C and 22°C at lower altitudes, and between 7°C and 17°C at altitudes over 1000m. Winters, by contrast, tend to be very cold, with average January temperatures of between -1°C to -3°C at lower altitudes and between -3°C and -9°C above 1000m.

For walkers, one of the most important climatic characteristics that must be taken into account when venturing into the Central Balkan national park is fog. The Stara Planina as a whole is notorious for this, with the region of the national park experiencing on average some 270 days per year with foggy conditions. This figure rises to a staggering 305 days on the highest peak Botev. May and June tend to be worst in this respect, and the winter months of January and February are also fairly bad. For those in search of the sunniest and clearest weather, then August is usually the best bet.

At lower altitudes, the average annual precipitation within the Central Balkan national park varies from 550mm to 1000mm, with the southern slopes being notably drier than those to the north. At altitudes above 1000m, the average annual precipitation reaches 1200mm, and at hizha Ambaritsa on the northern flank of the range it is 1360mm, making this one of the wettest places in Bulgaria. Maximum precipitation occurs in early summer (typically during June) and is lowest in winter (usually in February).

During winter, precipitation tends to fall as snow. The first fleeting flurries can often be seen in September or October, but it is not usually until November that any dusting of snow is likely to remain permanent. The snow cover then gradually accumulates over the ensuing months, in March reaching a maximum depth of between 150cm and 220cm at altitudes above 2000m. At higher altitudes, the snow cover tends to last between 150 to 180 days, while in lower parts of the national park the duration is typically 75 to 80 days. Avalanches are a serious menace in the region during the winter months, typically in the high mountain treeless zone between 1500m and 2200m.

Another feature of the climate in the Stara Planina is the wind. The summit of Murgash (1687m) in the Western Stara Planina has the highest average annual wind speed in the country, with Botev (2376m) in the Central Balkan national park coming in a close second. In general, the average annual wind speed on the main ridge typically tops 10m/s, but it is not unusual for even stronger winds to be experienced in the region. One such wind is the föhn, a warm dry spring wind that whips up from the south and then gusts over the ridge, at times reaching speeds of between 18m/s and 20m/s. There is also a biting northerly wind, know as the bora, which blasts across the ridge and sweeps down over the southern slopes. Typical winds, however, tend to be northwesterly and of moderate strength.

Up-to-date weather information and forecasts for the Central Balkan region can be found at http://vremeto.v.bg, and then follow the link for Peak Botev.

Plant Life

The flora of the Central Balkan national park is extremely rich and varied, with approximately 1900 species and sub-species of higher plants found growing in the region. These include 67 Balkan endemics, 10 Bulgarian endemics, and 10 local endemics that are unique to this part of the Stara Planina. The latter include three species of lady’s mantle Alchemilla achtarowii, Alchemilla jumrukczalica and Alchemilla asteroantha, as well as Ognyanov’s knapweed (Centaurea ognianoffi), Urumov’s hawkweed (Hieraceum urumoffii), Bulgarian seseli (Seseli bulgaricum), two catchflies Silene balcanica and Silene trojanensis, the mullein Verbascum boevae and the beautiful little primrose Primula frondosa.

While walking through the Central Balkan national park you will pass through six distinct vegetation zones. Around the lowest edge of the national park, between about 550m and 900m, there are patches of oak forest. Typically these comprise Turkey oak (Quercus cerris), Hungarian oak (Quercus frainetto) or downy oak (Quercus pubescens), and also include secondary associations of eastern hornbeam (Carpinus orientalis), prickly juniper (Juniperus oxycedrus), hop-hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia), manna ash (Fraxinus ornus) and Tartar maple (Acer tartaricum). Many of the trees in this zone are stunted by decades of cutting and grazing, and resemble thickets rather than mature woodland.

Central Balkan endemic flora: Balkan primrose (Priumla frondosa) (Walk 2)

The oak zone is found exclusively on the southern flank of the mountains. Here too, and again reaching up to altitudes of about 900m, there is also a somewhat similar oak-hornbeam zone. This is dominated by communities of the Balkan durmast oak (Quercus dalechampii) in conjunction with hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) and eastern hornbeam (Carpinus orientalis). Manna ash (Fraxinus ornus) and hop-hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia) again both also often occur in this zone, as well as silver lime (Tilia tomentosa), hazel (Corylus avellana) and blackthorn (Prunus spinosa).

Between about 800m and 1600m, on both sides of the ridge, it is beech forests that dominate the national park, covering over 40 per cent of its total area. Indeed, about 70 per cent of all trees growing within the national park are beech (Fagus sylvatica), and these have an average age of 135 years. Not only do they play a fundamental role in terms of local climate, hydrology and biodiversity, they also make up the most extensive and least degraded block of beech forest in Europe. Within this zone one also frequently finds examples of sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus), hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), Balkan maple (Acer heldreichii), Norway maple (Acer platanoides) and silver fir (Abies alba), as well as the occasional common ash (Fraxinus excelsior), rowan (Sorbus aucuparia) and hazel (Corylus avellana).

Within the Central Balkan national park, coniferous forests are highly fragmented and do not form a distinct zone as they do in the Rila and Pirin mountains. Isolated blocks of Norway spruce (Picea abies) are found in and around the Boatin, Tsarichina, Stara Reka and Dzhendema reserves, with the average age of trees being 120 years. Of particular interest is the occurrence of Macedonian pine (Pinus peuce) within the national park. Not only is the region of the Tsarichina Reserve the sole location of this Balkan endemic species in the Stara Planina, it also represents the most extreme northerly outpost of its worldwide geographical distribution.

As the beech or coniferous forests finally give way, somewhere between 1500m and 1850m, you enter into the sub-alpine zone. Here the vegetation is dominated by low scrubby formations of Siberian juniper (Juniperus sibirica), whortleberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) and Balkan spike-heath (Bruckenthalia spiculifolia). In places you can also find patches of dwarf mountain pine (Pinus mugo), but the occurrence of this species within the Central Balkan national park is far more restricted than it is in the Rila or Pirin mountains.

Wildlife

Dragonflies

The dragonflies of the Central Balkan national park have not yet been studied in detail, with records only from one small region. So far nine species have been reported: robust spreadwing (Lestes dryas), common bluetail (Ischnura elegans), azure bluet (Coenagrion puella), blue featherleg (Platycnemis pennipes), blue hawker (Aeschna cyanea), sombre goldenring (Cordulegaster bidentatus), broad-bodied chaser (Libellula depressa), southern skimmer (Orthetrum brunneum) and ruddy darter (Sympetrum sanguineum). It is likely, however, that after further research, especially along the upper courses of some of the streams, more species will be discovered.

Butterflies

The butterflies of the Central Balkan national park have been the focus of scientific research for almost 100 years. So far almost 60 species have been recorded in the region, and it has recently been recognised as a Prime Butterfly Area. Important species found within the national park include Apollo (Parnassius apollo), clouded Apollo (Parnassius mnemosyne), large blue (Maculinea arion), false Eros blue (Polyommatus eroides), purple emperor (Apatura iris), eastern large heath (Coenonympha rhodopensis), lesser spotted fritillary (Melitaea trivia), bog fritillary (Boloria eunomia), and a variety of high mountain ringlets such as Bulgarian ringlet (Erebia orientalis), woodland ringlet (Erebia medusa), almond-eyed ringlet (Erebia alberganus), Nicholl’s ringlet (Erebia rhodopensis), water ringlet (Erebia pronoe) and black ringlet (Erebia melas).

Fish

Lacking lakes or other large areas of open water, the variety of fish found within the Central Balkan national park is rather limited, with only six species recorded in the region. Most typical are the brown trout (Salmo trutta fario) and the minnow (Phoxinus phoxinus), while the miller’s thumb (Cottus gobio), Balkan barbel (Barbus meridionalis petenyi) and rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) have been reported in rivers at the periphery of the national park. There is also a record of brook trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) from the river Zavodna from the 1970s, but this species has not since been recorded in the region.

Amphibians

There are eight species of amphibian currently known to be present within the Central Balkan national park. These are fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra), yellow-bellied toad (Bombina variegata), green toad (Epidalea viridis), common toad (Bufo bufo), European tree frog (Hyla arborea), marsh frog (Pelophylax ridibundus), common frog (Rana temporaria) and agile frog (Rana dalmatina).

Fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra)

Reptiles

Reptiles are well represented, with 14 species having been recorded within the national park. Most often seen by walkers are the slow worm (Anguis fragilis), viviparous lizard (Zootoca vivipara) and common wall lizard (Podarcis muralis). However, if you are lucky you may also spot green lizard (Lacerta viridis) and sand lizard (Lacerta agilis), and there are old records of Balkan wall lizard (Podarcis tauricus) and snake-eyed skink (Ablepharus kitaibelii) from the Stara Reka Reserve above Karlovo.

The Central Balkan national park also has seven species of snake. These include the common viper (Vipera berus) and nose-horned viper (Vipera ammodytes), as well as the grass snake (Natrix natrix), dice snake (Natrix tessellata), Aesculapian snake (Zamenis longissimus) and smooth snake (Coronella austriaca). Most interesting of all is the large whip snake (Dolichophis caspius), which has been recorded in both the Boatin and Stara Reka reserves.

Birds

Over 220 species of bird have been recorded within the Central Balkan national park, of which over 120 are thought to breed. Not surprisingly, the region has been internationally recognised as an Important Bird Area. In the beech forests, chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs), robin (Erithacus rubecula), wren (Troglodytes troglodytes) and blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla) are dominant, with other typical species being song thrush (Turdus philomelos), blackbird (Turdus merula), chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita), coal tit (Parus ater), nuthatch (Sitta europaea), great tit (Parus major), treecreeper (Certhia familiaris), woodpigeon (Columba palumbus), bullfinch (Pyrrhula pyrrhula), marsh tit (Parus palustris) and blue tit (Parus caeruleus). Also present in the beech forests, but less often seen, are red-breasted flycatcher (Ficedula parva), collared flycatcher (Ficedula albicollis), wood warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix), white-backed woodpecker (Dendrocopos leucotos ssp. lilfordi) and lesser spotted woodpecker (Dendrocopos minor).

Many of the commoner beech forest species can also be seen in the spruce and mixed coniferous forests, along with firecrest (Regulus ignicapillus), goldcrest (Regulus regulus), mistle thrush (Turdus viscivorus), nutcracker (Nucifraga caryocatactes), common crossbill (Loxia curvirostra), black woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) and willow tit (Parus montanus). Then, emerging from the forest belt into the scrub of the sub-alpine zone, you typically encounter dunnock (Prunella modularis), whinchat (Saxicola rubetra), stonechat (Saxicola torquata), ring ouzel (Turdus torquatus) and linnet (Carduelis cannabina). In places you can also find yellow bunting (Emberiza citrinella), goldfinch (Carduelis carduelis) and red-backed shrike (Lanius collurio).

White stork (Ciconia ciconia)

On meadows in the high-mountain treeless zone there are water pipit (Anthus spinoletta), Balkan horned lark (Eremophila alpestris ssp. balcanica) and skylark (Alauda arvensis), while streams are frequented by grey wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) and dipper (Cinclus cinclus), and more rocky terrain by black redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros), northern wheatear (Oenanthe oenanthe), alpine accentor (Prunella collaris ssp. subalpina), rock partridge (Alectoris graeca) and wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria).

Finally, you should always keep an eye on the sky overhead where, as well as being able to spot red-rumped swallow (Hirundo daurica), crag martin (Ptyonoprogne rupestris), alpine swift (Tachymarptis melba), raven (Corvus corax) and alpine chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus), there is always a chance of glimpsing a bird of prey. Possible raptors that could be seen in the national park include common buzzard (Buteo buteo), long-legged buzzard (Buteo rufinus), golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), kestrel (Falco tinnunculus), saker falcon (Falco cherrug) and peregrine (Falco peregrinus), as well as the occasional foraging imperial eagle (Aquila heliaca).

Mammals

There have been 63 species of mammal recorded within the national park, including 22 species of bat. There are also 17 species of large mammal, of which 13 species are carnivores. Data from 1999 suggests there are about 60 brown bears (Ursus arctos) roaming within the national park, as well as nine packs of wolves (Canis lupus) totalling about 25 to 30 individuals. Deer are very important prey for the latter, and the national park is home to about 1000–1200 roe deer (Capreolus capreolus) and 400 red deer (Cervus elaphus), although unfortunately the red deer population is declining badly due to poaching. The same is true for the Balkan chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra ssp. balcanica), which now numbers less than 80 individuals. Wild boar (Sus scrofa), on the other hand, seem to be doing well, with a population of 350–400 animals.

Walking Opportunities

The Central Balkan national park has a good network of well-maintained hiking trails, including a section of the E3 European long-distance walking route, which follows the main ridge of the Stara Planina from the Serbian border in the west to Cape Emine in the east. The national park authorities have also established several interpretative routes in the region, as well as a number of special eco-trails. For accommodation within the national park, walkers also have at their disposal 21 mountain huts and several small refuges, not to mention the numerous hotels and guest-houses that are found in settlements around the foot of the mountains.

For the purposes of this guidebook, I have linked together some of what I consider to be the most interesting, picturesque and representative trails, to form four multi-stage walks each with durations of between three and four days (33 to 51km). These walks are not only beautiful mountain routes in their own rights, but the trails have been specifically chosen to take you through the nine nature reserves of the national park, thereby providing the perfect opportunity to discover more about the rich flora and fauna of the region.

Maps

 Central Balkan National Park Tourist Map (1:50 000) – a 64 page atlas published by Directorate of the Central Balkan National Park

 Troyan Balkan (1:65 000) – published by the Bulgarian mountain rescue service

 Sredna Stara Planina (1:100 000) – published by Kartografiya EOOD