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WALK 1

Peč (Tromeja)

Start/finish	Rateče bus stop
Distance	7km
Total ascent/descent	640m
Grade	1
Time	3hr 30min–4hr
Maps	Kranjska Gora 1:30,000
Access	The walk starts in Rateče, 5.5km west of Kranjska Gora. It can be reached by an hourly bus from Kranjska Gora, or you can walk to it along the cycle track which starts just past the ski slopes in about 1hr 15min.

This unassuming forested hill, named Peč and marked on the map as such, is known locally and on all the signposts as Tromeja, which translates as ‘Three Borders’ in Slovene. Its summit has the distinction of marking the point where the borders of Slovenia, Austria and Italy meet. It is also the most westerly peak of the Karavanke chain, and thus the start of our journey along the frontier between Slovenia and Austria. On its top meet not only the borders of Slovenia, Italy and Austria, but also the three great linguistic traditions and cultures of Europe – the Germanic, Romance and Slavic. It was here in 2004 that representatives of the three governments of Italy, Austria and Slovenia met to welcome Slovenia into the European Union.

From the bus stop/car park in Rateče, walk along the road past the small Mercator supermarket and the ancient church of St Thomas. Continue on to the village centre with its café, and then turn right, seeing ahead of you a building with a sign on it saying ‘Tromeja, 2hr’. Walk up this lane and cross a little river just before arriving at a track heading off right between two houses, signed Tromeja. Walk between farm outbuildings to a fork where you follow the stony right-hand path, again signed Tromeja. Walk up the tree-lined track for about 10min, to emerge on a forest road opposite a field. Turn right, and follow the gravel forest road as it ascends for about 2km.

Looking south to the western peaks of the Julian Alps from the forest break line

After about 2km, notice a sign for Dom Tromeja (1145m) 250m pointing to the right – a small diversion for rest and refreshments. The route continues up the forest road, and very soon reaches a sharp right-hand bend. A sign directs you onto a path climbing into the forest – this is the Krajša pot, which you should follow.

Alternative

It is also possible to continue up the road on the Daljša pot; this way is less steep but also less interesting. To follow this route, simply walk up the forest road, and take the left, upper fork after about 600m. Continue up this forest road for a further 2.5km or so to the summit.

The final section of the Krajša pot is quite steep, zigzagging up through the forest just to the right of a break line of open land about 30m wide, which marks the border between Slovenia and Italy. The path weaves in and out of the forest, so at each alternating hairpin you see more and more of the stupendous view of the western Julian Alps opening out behind you.

Arrive at a small locked wooden hut next to a large antenna mast. Benches and a relief map of the Julian Alps stand just outside. A short walk from the hut brings you to the summit of Peč/Tromeja (1508m) just a few metres beyond a wooden fence line. A set of signposts covered with a wooden shingle roof marks the top. The forest which covers the Slovene side has given way to the small ski resort of Dreiländereck, near Arnoldstein– on the Austrian side.

Looking east along the Karavanke from the summit of Peč in winter

The Karavanke mountain chain stretches away to the east and the view into Austria is extensive. Directly opposite is Dobratsch (2166m) with its 165m high TV transmitter close to its summit. Wörthersee, a lake near Klagenfurt, is visible in the distance about 30km away. There is a very marked difference between the high but comparatively rounded hills of this part of Austria and the steep bare limestone peaks of the Julian Alps.

The return route takes the same path.

Haflinger ponies grazing the summit slopes of Peč at sunrise

MONUMENT OF PEACE

There is a monument just below the summit on the Slovenian side with text in Italian, Slovene and German, built in 1994. It says:

TROMEJA

The Mountain of Peace by Šri Činmoj

Mountains are a symbol of peace, tranquillity and inner depth. Mankind needs all these virtues on its way to growing worldwide harmony.

“FINDING ONE’S INNER PEACE IS MAN’S GREATEST NEED.”

May this monument to understanding and friendship among nations be erected at this important meeting point of three great language groups and cultures.

Tromeja has become a link in the chain of several hundred different monuments dedicated to peace. There are buildings, mountains, bridges, cities, parks and natural phenomena which should encourage harmonious co-existence of people and nations, improve harmony and help to overcome both inner and outer borders.

PEACE DOES NOT ONLY MEAN NO WAR. PEACE MEANS THE RULE OF HARMONY, LOVE, SATISFACTION AND UNITY.

(Šri Činmoj, translated by Rosvita Veselic)