Читать книгу The Westweg - Kat Morgenstern - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
In the far southwestern corner of Germany lies a small mountain range of worldwide fame: the legendary Black Forest, noted for its fairytale scenery and traditions, its cuckoo clocks, and most of all for its scrumptious gateau.
Yet the region has far more to offer than its well-worn clichés. The Black Forest, in the state of Baden-Württemberg, is one of Germany’s most beloved walking destinations. The soft-contoured, forest-clad hills, interspersed with pastures and isolated farms snuggled into the folds of the mountains, and picturesque villages sprinkled among the hills, make an ideal landscape in which to let both the mind and feet wander. The bald mountaintops – especially of the southern hills – offer a panorama of far-ranging vistas that not only encompass the soft ripples of the Black Forest, but on clear days can stretch right across the Alpine chain.
Comprising a total area of about 6000km2 (about a third of the size of Wales), the region has an excellent infrastructure for walkers: about 23,000km of well maintained, waymarked trails, a very efficient public transport system and just enough conveniently placed benches, huts and farmhouse inns – often located in beautiful settings – offering not only physical sustenance, but also nourishment for the senses.
The Westweg
Despite the fact that tourism development in the region started more than a hundred years ago, hospitality retains an authentic ‘home-grown’ feel. In part this is due to the early pioneering efforts of the Schwarzwaldverein. Founded in 1864 by a small group of innkeepers, the ‘Schwarzwaldverein’ (Black Forest Association) made it their task to promote and preserve the region’s cultural and natural heritage, and to promote its appreciation by making it more accessible to tourists. They set to work immediately. Their very first project was to establish a long-distance walking trail right across the entire length of the Black Forest that was to incorporate as many of the region’s highlights as possible.
Westweg Portal Schonach marks the beginning of Stage 8 at Wilhelmshöhe
It was an ambitious project, spanning some 285km, from the ‘Gold City’ of Pforzheim in the north, to Basel in the extreme southwestern corner of the country, where Germany meets Switzerland and France, at the bend of the Rhine. The trail was to be clearly waymarked and well maintained, running high up and far away from towns and villages. Yet, it should provide enough shelter huts and hostels to make the experience safe and pleasurable for long-distance walkers who did not necessarily want to camp out.
By 1900 the task was complete. The Westweg (or The Westway in English) was inaugurated as one of Germany’s first long-distance trails and it quickly became a hit. To this day its red diamond marker blazes the trail across the Black Forest and the route has lost none of its appeal.
The Westweg was soon followed by two other routes, the Mittelweg and the Ostweg, which also start in Pforzheim and run south to the Rhine, but neither ever managed to rival the Westweg’s allure. It is the Westweg that reigns supreme for status and eminence among classic long-distance walks in Germany.
While the Black Forest covers a relatively small area and its peaks never exceed 1500m in height, the route nevertheless has its challenges. Although the trails and terrain are easy, there are some rather steep sections. Some stretches of trail run on broad forestry roads, while others amble on narrow and uneven or rocky paths through the woods, although none require any special technical skill or ability beyond endurance. However, weatherproof equipment and sturdy boots are a ‘must’, and walking poles may prove a useful aid.
The route, which can be divided comfortably into 13 or 14 day-sections, comprises a total of about 8000m cumulative altitude metres – and sometimes a thousand of those have to be overcome in a single day. For seasoned alpine trekkers or hill walkers that might not sound like much, but the average walker should not underestimate the challenge.
However, this being the Black Forest rather than a remote mountain wilderness, it is almost always possible to shorten any part of the route by taking public transport, or by breaking one section into two, according to one’s personal stamina and ability. Also, for those who do not relish being weighed down by a heavy pack – fret not! Walking-without-luggage packages or luggage forwarding services are available for almost all sections of this route.
While the Westweg does not compete for thrill and adventure with more alpine routes, its quieter, bucolic charms are seductive to those who are romantics at heart.
Typical Black Forest farmhouse (Stage 11B)
Geology
Geologically speaking, the mountains of the Black Forest are quite old. The bedrock, consisting of granite and gneiss, originated from volcanic activity some 200 million years ago. Variegated sandstone deposits, known as Bunter, which can mostly be seen in the northern parts, have built up through the eons. Thick layers of calciferous material (Muschelkalk and Keuper) around the southern fringes of the massif bear witness to an age when the region was covered by an arm of the Tethys Ocean and prehistoric corals populated this warm-water sea.
Prior to the Eocene epoch the Black Forest and the Vosges Mountains were part of the same tectonic plate, but due to the enormous pressures exerted on the earth crust during the formation of the Alps, the plate was stretched and pulled in opposite directions, which caused it to thin and eventually to crack. In a process that has lasted millions of years and is still in progress (at a rate of about 0.1mm per year), the ‘graben’ has sunk by about 4000m. At the same time the broken-off edges of the plates have lifted up, bringing ancient bedrock of granite and gneiss to the surface, while softer layers of Bunter, Keuper and Muschelkalk have eroded. The debris has collected in the plain and built up layer upon layer of sediments that have filled the fissure, which is why today there is no 4000m-deep ‘Grand Canyon’ between France and Germany.
The tiny mountain range of Kaiserstuhl, situated to the west of Freiburg, is geologically unrelated to the Black Forest and the Vosges. It was formed during the Tertiary period and represents the climax of volcanic activity in the Rhine Valley.
During the last ice age about 10,000 years ago (the Würm glaciation), glaciers covered the entire Black Forest, and they have left their distinctive mark on the region’s topography: soft contoured hills and valleys and near-circular tarns at the base of ancient cirques. After the ice retreated, the land, freed of the weight, started to rise. It is still lifting today, but at such a minimal rate that the effect is offset by erosion.
Geographically, the Black Forest is divided into a northern/central and a southern part, although the dividing line is rather arbitrary. The northern/central part extends from Pforzheim at the northernmost tip to Freudenstadt in the east, and Offenburg in the west. The Kinzig valley, which connects these two towns, forms the ‘boundary’. Regions to the south are considered part of the southern Black Forest, also often referred to as Hochschwarzwald (High Black Forest).
In the northern parts, the tallest peaks rarely reach more than 1000m above sea level. This area is characterised by seemingly endless miles of spruce-clad mountains, moors and deeply incised, steep and narrow valleys carved out by rivers that once were vital traffic arteries.
On top of the Black Forest with panoramic views all around (Stage 10A)
The southern Black Forest is where the tallest peaks are found, with Feldberg at almost 1500m topping the list. The southern edges of the massif are geologically still quite active – a phenomena that can be observed in the widening chasms of gorges, such as the Wutachschlucht.
The main central ridge of the mountains divides the region into an eastern and a western part. On the western flanks the mountains soar quite abruptly, rising up from the Rhine Valley to over 1000m, while the eastern slopes fall away much more gradually, forming an extensive high plateau that is characterised by gently rolling hills.
History
Despite its northern latitude, Baden-Württemberg bears many traces of extremely ancient human history. Some of Europe’s oldest archaeological sites have been discovered at various locations between Stuttgart and Lake Constance, but the Black Forest has long remained a forbidding wilderness.
Evidence of early farming settlements dates to around 4000BC. Traces of such camps have been found at a number of locations, such as Schönberg near Freiburg, at Breisach am Rhein and Burkheim am Kaiserstuhl. But it was early Celtic tribes around 800–700BC that began to make inroads into the forest itself. Creating clearances on the eastern plateau near the source of the River Danube, they were the first to exploit the natural resources of the area – most notably its iron ore.
The Romans also had a significant impact on the region, especially around the southern and western edges, where remains of their villas can still be seen. After conquering Helvetia, now modern-day Switzerland, they pushed north along the Rhine, gradually usurping the Celts and driving them into the hills. By AD76 they had built the first traffic artery through the Kinzig valley, in the heart of the Black Forest.
Archaeologists digging for traces of Pforzheim’s ancient past (stage 1)
The Romans, well known for their love of thermal baths, were delighted to find hot springs at sites such as Badenweiler and Baden-Baden and set about constructing elaborate bath houses. The original Roman ruins can still be seen today. Their traditions, meanwhile, have evolved into a modern spa culture.
As the Roman Empire went into decline by about the third century AD, their settlements in Germania became increasingly vulnerable to attacks by Alemannic tribes from the north. The Romans withdrew south of the Rhine and the once grand administrative centre of Augusta Raurica (only about 20km from modern-day Basel), which during its heyday was home to about 20,000 people, eventually reverted to the status of a small fishing village.
The first determined attempts to settle and ‘civilise’ the Black Forest came in the seventh century with the arrival of Irish monks, who were on a mission to evangelise the heathen outposts of Europe. Most of the grand and powerful clerical centres in the Black Forest, such as St Trudpert in Münstertal and St Blasien, originally started as hermitages. In their diligent effort to ‘gain dominion over nature’, the monks cut down the forest and built their pious outposts in the wilderness.
Rötteln Church, built on the foundations of one of the earliest Christian sites in the region (Stage 13A)
The forest, along with the silver mines that brought riches to cities such as Freiburg, was the livelihood of the then sparse population. Ancient tree giants supplied the building material for many of Germany’s grand medieval churches and castles. In later centuries they were also bound for export to Holland, where they were turned into the Dutch merchant fleet.
In the days before motorised transportation, moving the massive tree trunks to bigger rivers, such as the Rhine or Neckar, was a major logistic challenge. Spin-off trades related to the timber industry began to proliferate. Rafting, charcoal making, glass manufacture and potash production all boomed – and brought the forest ecosystem to the brink of collapse. Only the absence of heavy machinery and intermittent calamities, such as outbreaks of the plague or war, periodically halted the devastation and gave the forest a chance to recover. But at the dawn of the industrial revolution, tree cover had been reduced to only 30 per cent.
During the latter part of the 19th century circumstances conspired to bring about a radical shift. Firstly, the growing influence of industry on people’s lives nurtured a new appreciation and idealisation of nature. The ‘idea of nature’ became the ‘holy grail’ of the Romantic movement and artists and philosophers revered nature as a source of inspiration.
Latschigfelsen – a prominent promontory high above Murg Valley (Stage 2)
The Black Forest was one of the first regions in Germany to discover its potential as a tourist destination, although at first it wasn’t the forest or the mountains that attracted visitors from all over Europe, America and Russia – it was the allure of a cure. The numerous mineral-rich hot springs of the Black Forest, which had been praised for their curative powers since Celtic times, now attracted the gentry of Europe. Once the first steam engine railway lines were introduced, the healing waters attracted an influx of well-heeled tourists, and became a lucrative source of revenue for the region.
Medical philosophy at the time also held that fresh air and gentle exercise, such as walking, was conducive to health and wellbeing. However, royalty could not be expected to roam the woods, so the solution was to create ‘Kurparks’ in every spa town: beautiful park-like arboretums, embellished with ornamental trees and bushes from far-flung regions of the planet, were created in the English style that was the fashion at the time.
Burg Rötteln, near Basel, dates to at least the 13th century (Stage 13A)
In 1864 the now-famous Schwarzwaldverein (Black Forest Association) was founded with the idea of protecting the cultural and natural heritage of the Black Forest and promoting it to walkers and tourists. To this day, walkers are indebted to the efforts of these early pioneers. All the routing, waymarking and maintenance of the region’s extensive network of walking trails is carried out by its members; in recent years the Schwarzwaldverein has also played an important role in the creation of the Naturparks Schwarzwald Nord and Schwarzwald Süd, mediating between various interest groups to safeguard sensitive habitats and cultural sites, while promoting sustainable outdoor activities. Thanks to these efforts the Black Forest has evolved into a flagship region for sustainable tourism in Germany.
Plants and wildlife
In January 2014 parts of the northern Black Forest were designated as Germany’s newest national park, consisting of two separate pieces of land which together cover an area of about 10,000ha. These areas have not been set aside because of their innate wildness, but rather as an effort to ‘re-wild’ them, and thus to provide better habitat protection for a number of endangered species that are native to the Black Forest. The effects will not be apparent during the initial stages of rehabilitation as it may take 30 years or more for nature to reclaim her ground.
Mountains clad in tall, dark spruce and fir trees and a sombre atmosphere is the classic image that has given the region its name. For many centuries this image was not far from the truth, but today the ecosystem is changing. Originally the forest ecosystem consisted mainly of beech and oak, as well as silver fir (Abies alba), all of which are considered high-value timber species and sources of fuel. For many centuries the forest was fiercely exploited, and sadly, no stands of original primary forest have been preserved.
Attitudes did not begin to change until the time of the industrial revolution. Realising that overexploitation of forest resources was putting people’s livelihoods at stake, the authorities passed the first legislation to protect the environment. It was decreed that no more timber should be harvested in any one year than could naturally regrow within the same period. Simultaneously, a massive reforestation campaign was launched.
Trail through the predominantly deciduous woodlands of the southern Black Forest (Stage 12A)
Unfortunately, then as now, ecological considerations came second to economic priorities. The forest was stocked with fast-growing, commercially valuable Norwegian spruce and Douglas fir, which, thanks to their straight growth and sparsely branched trunks, soon returned a profit. The forest recovered remarkably quickly – within 60 years it had pretty much replenished – but the economically biased strategy soon proved to be short-sighted: the forest had basically been turned into a monoculture of shallow-rooted trees. It was a disaster waiting to happen. And happen it did – most poignantly in December 1999, when legendary hurricane Lothar blasted its way across the Black Forest and within just a few hours lay waste to about 40,000ha of trees.
During major storms, trees with shallow root systems tend to fall like matchsticks. Of course, a storm with the ferocity of Lothar (gusts of over 200km per hour were measured on Feldberg) has the power to flatten anything. But the effect was particularly devastating due to the predominance of these types of trees. Even now, the aftermath of the storm can be observed on many exposed hillsides. It has transformed the terrain and galvanised a shift in forest management. Today more effort is invested in making the forest more climate resilient by planting a variety of species and especially more native deciduous trees. Gradually the forest is changing and returning to something resembling its original ecology.
The growing stands of mixed deciduous trees in the southern Black Forest have created an ambience that is quite different to that of the northern parts, where conifers still dominate and many storm-ravaged areas remain; where dead trees form bizarre sculptures amid young growth but open views still prevail.
Left to right: left: Fly Agaric (Amanita muscaria); Yellow Gentian (Gentiana lutea); Moorland Spotted Orchid (Dactylorhiza maculata)
Another typical landscape feature, especially in the northern mountains, are the patches of moorland, locally known as Grinden – the result of deforestation followed by regular grazing. Even though these moors essentially represent a degraded, man-made landscape, they provide a habitat for highly specialised plants and animals, such as sundew (Drossera sp), cottongrass (Eriophorum sp), marsh cinquefoil (Comarum palustre), bog bilberry (Vaccinium uliginosum), bogbean (Menyanthes trifolia), bog-rosemary (Andromeda polifolia) and various insects, including rare dragonflies that can only survive and thrive in such harsh and specialised biotopes.
At the higher altitudes conifers still dominate, while the understory layer consists of mosses and ferns that relish the humid atmosphere. This is the habitat of the endangered wood grouse. Heather, bilberry and cowberry are often found carpeting areas that have lost their tree cover due to the ravages of hurricane Lothar. These open areas also provide a habitat for snakes, such as the European adder, while grass snakes tend to prefer a more boggy terrain.
At lower altitudes there is a richer diversity of tree species, which includes oak, beech, maple, hazel, willow, poplar, lime, mountain ash, and along the warmer western edges, sweet chestnut and even walnut. The understory here tends to be dryer, and occasional stands of holly can also be found. On the southernmost fringe near Rheinfelden, a small natural stand of box trees (Buxus sempervirens) is protected as a nature reserve.
Open meadows and pastures display the full range of central European flora, its variations dependent on soil composition and altitude as well as ecosystem characteristics. Habitat protection is patchy and sometimes covers just an individual field to safeguard specific plants or animals found only in a particular spot.
Perhaps surprisingly, larger animals are rarely seen. Deer, fox and wild boar tend to avoid humans, although they are there, and in recent years even the lynx has returned to its former range in the Black Forest. Birds are by far the easiest animals to observe, and thanks to the variety of habitats there is quite a wide range of species – including wood grouse, peregrine falcon, storks, three-toed woodpecker, green woodpecker, spotted nutcracker, kestrels, red and black kites, buzzards, haw finch, golden oriole, great grey shrike, red-backed shrike, black redstart, blackcap, yellow hammer, cuckoo, goldcrest, goldfinch and wagtails, to name but a few.
Bannwald
Although the Black Forest is a managed environment, there are quite a few areas known as Bannwald (special protection areas) that are set aside for scientific study. They are neither managed nor cut, although if necessary the forestry service may clear obstructed trails. Thus, walkers should be especially careful of falling branches and other unsuspected dangers when entering a Bannwald. On windy days they are best avoided.
In protected areas (Naturschuzgebiet) special rules apply:
keep noise down (ie no portable stereos etc)
keep to the trails
do not pick mushrooms
do not collect stones or minerals
do not feed the wildlife
do not litter
no open fires
use official campsites
do not remove plants or animals
keep dogs on a leash
do not fly model airplanes or kites.
Walking the Westweg
The Westweg leads from the northernmost outpost of the Black Forest in Pforzheim to Basel in the ‘tri-country corner’, where Switzerland, France and Germany meet. Starting in Pforzheim, the route follows the River Enz to Neuenbürg an der Enz, with its medieval castle towering above the town. From here it climbs up to the Dobel plateau. Although on the first day it takes a little while to leave civilisation behind, the second stage runs high above the towns and villages nestled in the valleys, with many beautiful, long-ranging views to the north and west. After passing through the nature reserve at Kaltenbronn, which protects the largest coherent upland moor in Germany, the trail heads down to the valley of the Murg, where the second stage ends in the picturesque town of Forbach.
Above the clouds on the Dobel plateau (Stage 1/2)
The deeply cut valleys of the northern Black Forest are experienced on the third stage – one of the most demanding sections of the entire route. Some rather steep climbs add up to about 1000 cumulative altitude metres between Forbach and Unterstmatt, taking in the peaks of Badener Höhe (1002m), Hundseck (856m) and Hochkopf (1041m) along the way.
The fourth stage is relatively easy, and very scenic, although it’s a long day’s hike. After a steep climb to Hornisgrinde (1163m), the highest peak in the north, the trail runs along the central ridge via Ruhestein (997m) and Schliffkopf (1054m) to Alexanderschanze, with wonderful long-distance views for most of the way.
The following two days provide a complete contrast as the route runs almost entirely through the forest, with only occasional passages through open terrain and glimpses of the valleys below as the trail approaches Hausach in the Kinzig valley, which lies approximately at the midpoint of the route and also at its lowest point of elevation.
Hausach is the gateway to the central/southern Black Forest – a region of more open farmland and softer contours. But the climb back up to the ridge is pretty steep, and this stage tots up another 1000+ altitude metres on its way to Wilhelmshöhe. The higher mountains are getting closer now and the open long-distance views across the rolling hills lift the spirit – compensating for the fact that from Neueck to Süßes Häusle the trail runs rather close to the busy B500. Thereafter, the panoramic vistas are unimpeded and a pure joy, almost all the way to Titisee – a busy tourist spot on the largest natural lake in the Black Forest.
Lake Titisee, the largest natural lake in the Black Forest region (Stage 9)
In Titisee the trail splits and you have to decide whether to continue along the western edge of the massif, taking in some of the highest peaks – Feldberg, Belchen and Hochblauen – before descending through the rolling vineyards and orchards of Markgräflerland, or whether to take a more easterly route, via Herzogenhorn and Blößling to Todtmoos and the open farmland of Dinkelberg, to reach Basel.
Both routes are quite beautiful and each has its own highlights, but the western route is arguably the more interesting – and thus the more popular and busier of the two. The eastern branch is quieter, less dramatic (but not necessarily ‘easier’ in terms of altitude metres) and has more contact with towns and traffic along the way.
North to South or South to North?
Although the route is marked in both directions, almost everybody walks it from north to south – and with good reason. While the mountains are the same, the views are not. Walking from north to south, the anticipation grows as one approaches the higher hills ahead, and majestic Alpine peaks tower on the distant horizon. Basel, with its allure of cultural attractions and old-world charms, holds its own appeal as the final destination, whereas Pforzheim – well, lets just say it can’t compete. But if all one wants to do is walk a small section, or some individual stages, the direction really does not matter much.
Getting there
The Black Forest is very accessible and well served by a number of regional airports. If you are planning to start the Westweg in the north (recommended), the most useful airports to fly into are Stuttgart, Baden-Baden, or even Strasbourg, just over the border in France. If none of these are convenient, the next best international hub is Frankfurt. When you have completed the walk, rather than returning to the arrival airport it would make more sense to fly out of Basel’s Euroairport, or even Geneva or Zurich – especially if you’re walking the full length of the trail.
Stuttgart airport (www.stuttgart-airport.com) is served by several airlines from various cities in the UK and Ireland and from all over the world. The S2 or S3 light railway lines connect the airport with the central station (Hauptbahnhof), from where a local train takes you directly to Pforzheim.
Baden-Baden is not the most convenient airport for getting to Pforzheim. However, it is a good option for those wishing to spend a little extra time exploring Baden-Baden. The airport is very small and schedules frequently change. Current flight information is available at: www.baden-airpark.de/startseite
There are several buses that connect Baden-Baden airport with other destinations. Hahn Express (www.hahn-express.de) connects it with Hahn airport (Ryanair’s Frankfurt outpost), with stops in Baden-Baden and Karlsruhe. There is no direct service from Baden-Baden to Pforzheim; switch to a local train in Karlsruhe.
Thanks to its role as a political hub in Europe, Strasbourg airport (strasbourg.aeroport.fr/en) is reasonably well connected to many European cities, including London. Both a shuttle train and bus service connect the airport with the city centre several times per hour. A trans-border train service departs from the central station to Karlsruhe, where local trains leave for Pforzheim.
Frankfurt (www.frankfurt-airport.com) is Germany’s main international airport hub, served by every major airline. There is a train station right at the airport with direct (fast) trains to either Stuttgart or Karlsruhe, where local trains leave for Pforzheim.
Basel/Mulhouse (EuroAirport: www.euroairport.com/en) is well connected to many airports in the UK, Ireland and other parts of Europe. Since the Westweg ends in Basel it is a convenient airport to fly out of. But beware – although the terminal is quite small, it can be a bit confusing. The terminal building is divided into a Swiss and a French side, each with its separate entrances, customs and passport controls. Be sure to know which side your flight departs from (or which exit you want to take, if you arrive here!).
Basel also has three train stations: the central station (Basel SBB), the French SNCF right next to it and Badischer Bahnhof on the other side of the Rhine, which is located on Swiss territory but run by the German train service, DB.
A regular airport shuttle bus (#50) runs between the central station (Basel SBB) and the airport (Swiss side). If you arrive here, don’t take the French shuttle bus service, Distribus #11, as it only goes to the Gare SNCF in Saint Louis (the French part of Basel) and this would make your onward journey rather complicated.
The Swiss and German stations are connected by a local train service (S6), by tram (#2) and by bus (#30).
Should you arrive in Basel, the quickest and least complicated way to get to Pforzheim is to take the ICE (fast train) from Basel SBB to Karlsruhe and then switch to a local train to Pforzheim.
Getting around
If you start the Westweg in Pforzheim or Basel you should have no difficulty finding the trailhead. But if you want to walk only part of the way or explore individual sections as day walks, you should request or download the brochure ‘Westweg mit Bus und Bahn’ from the Black Forest tourist board (unfortunately only available in German) by going to www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info, placing your cursor on the ‘Info’ tab at the top of the page, and selecting ‘Prospektbestellung’. Scroll down the page to get to the brochure, which includes a map showing the nearest bus stops for accessing various points along the route.
See Appendix C for further information on route-planning and transport providers.
Wollbach village (13A)
Konus card
Most hotels and guesthouses issue a ‘Konus card’ upon check-in (or checkout). This card is what you get for paying the local tourist tax. It entitles the cardholder to free public transport on local buses and trains throughout the Black Forest region, for the duration of your stay at each hotel. Even if you don’t think you’ll need it since you’ll be walking, it is worth taking anyway. It allows you to shorten a section or change your plans if the weather suddenly turns, or if you are injured or sick – or if you just want to spend some time exploring other places nearby. It might mean a bit of extra paperwork at check-in, but at least it comes with benefits. If it is not offered, ask for it! To download more information about the Konus card, go to www.blackforest-tourism.com, place your cursor on the ‘Info’ tab at the top of the page, select ‘sales guide’ and scroll down the page to the brochure entitled ‘KONUS – bus and rail for free’. (Not available in mayor towns such as Freiburg, Offenburg, Karlsruhe or Pforzheim.)
Walking without luggage
Many hotels in the region offer luggage-forwarding services for walkers who don’t want to carry their own gear. This is a very convenient service, but it does not necessarily come cheap – especially if the next accommodation is a long way by car. While the distance between one hotel and another ‘as the crow flies’, or in this case ‘as the hiker walks’, is usually relatively short, going up and down and around a lot of little mountain roads can take a long time and racks up quite a few miles. You may be looking at €10 to upwards of €20 per person, although some places charge less if a whole group of people all want their luggage delivered to the same place.
If you really hate carrying gear you can arrange the luggage forwarding yourself. Simply ask when booking your room whether the service is available and how much they charge; that way you can decide each day whether you want to carry your luggage yourself or use the service. (Some sections of the trail are a lot harder than others!)
Another possibility is to pre-book the whole tour, or parts of it, with both accommodation and luggage-forwarding service included. Check www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info for details.
Where to stay
The Black Forest is a well-established tourist region with a wide range of accommodation to choose from – in most places. However, Westweg has been routed to avoid villages as much as possible. While there are some simple guesthouses that lie directly on, or very close to the trail, sometimes there is not a lot of choice and pre-booking is definitely recommended. If you are likely to arrive after 6pm at your accommodation it’s a good idea to call and let them know.
Some hotels that do not lie directly en route may offer a free transfer from and to the trail. Ask at the time of booking.
When arranging your trip, keep in mind that Westweg is a popular route and the Black Forest is an extremely popular walking destination. During peak hiking season, in spring and autumn, pre-booking is essential.
The accommodation listing included in Appendix B; is not exhaustive, but presents a selection of the most convenient places. For further options check the village/town website, or the accommodation listing (Gastgeber Verzeichnis) at www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info.
Note that not all guesthouses take credit cards and ATM machines may not be available nearby.
Alter Rabe guesthouse (Stage 8)
Camping
There are many basic shelter huts sprinkled throughout the Black Forest, and theoretically it is possible to camp at these overnight. Wild camping is tolerated for one night ‘if the walker is in need’ – however, this regulation can be open to interpretation. Basically, the huts are meant for shelter in case of bad weather or as picnic huts for day-trippers. The forest warden can decide to send campers packing – or not – depending on his mood, or on the conduct of the prospective campers. The basic shelter huts are not exactly comfortable and only a few of them have sleeping platforms. Making a fire anywhere other than at designated grill places is prohibited.
Regular, serviced campsites can also be found throughout the region, however, there are almost none in the immediate vicinity of the trail.
Rustic picnic huts offering basic comforts are sprinkled amply throughout the region
First and last nights
Pforzheim
With only 120,000 inhabitants, Pforzheim is a rather small and sleepy town which was almost completely destroyed during WWII. The new town that sprang up in its place has all but lost the historic character. However, there are a few interesting museums (most notable is the museum of jewellery – www.schmuckmuseum-pforzheim.de) and the World Heritage site of Maulbronn Abbey (www.kloster-maulbronn.de) is only 30min away by public transport, if you happen to find yourself there a day early and are looking for things to do.
Unfortunately there are not a lot of recommendable hotels. The Parkhotel, located near the confluence of the rivers Nagold and Enz, is the best choice in town. However, this hotel serves as the hospitality hub for convention guests, as it is located right across from the convention centre. For less expensive options look for small Landgasthaus (country inn) or Pension (B&B) in nearby villages. If you want to expand your trip to include a bit of culture, you might like to consider spending a couple of days exploring the beautiful historic spa town of Baden-Baden, which is only about 45min away by local train.
Basel
At the opposite end of the trek lies Basel, known as the ‘Tri-Region City’, which is to say that the urban area of Basel merges Swiss, French and German parts across the borders, due to their common, shared heritage. Basel is a buzzing university town as well as an ancient bishopric centre, although today it is best known for its pharmaceutical industry.
Although industry along the Rhine is quite intense, Basel manages to preserve a lot of charm, especially in the old town centre. It is well worth spending a little extra time here if your schedule permits, to soak up the lively atmosphere and visit some of the excellent museums and galleries.
There are many hotels, inns and B&Bs in and around Basel. The area around Badischer Bahnhof is not exactly pretty, nor centrally located, so it may be better to look for a place on the shores of the Rhine, in the old town (south of the river) or nearer the SBB train station, from where it is also easy to catch the bus to the airport. However, Swiss hotel prices can be steep. For more budget-friendly options look for a place in Lörrach, just across the border in Germany, only a short tram ride away from the town centre.
Food and drink
On most (but not all) sections, you will be able to find serviced huts or cafés/restaurants along the way. Hotels usually have a restaurant on the premises, but some types of guesthouses (Pension) do not. Some Schwarzwaldverein huts are only open on weekends and public holidays during the main hiking season. Restaurants often take their day off (Ruhetag) on Mondays, Tuesdays or Wednesdays. Thus, it is always a good idea to bring some supplies – squirrel away an extra sandwich and pack some fruit from the breakfast buffet, or ask for a lunchbox before heading out.
Those following a special diet, such as gluten-free, lactose-free, vegan or vegetarian, may find their options severely limited. Although most better restaurants offer at least a couple of vegetarian alternatives, it is best to check your options before you get there. Many restaurants will be happy to accommodate you if they know your requirements in advance, but don’t expect to find multiple choices for non-traditional diets on the regular menu. For an explanation of certain regional food items, see the glossary in Appendix D.
Water
The importance of plentiful hydration cannot be stressed enough. In general, the Black Forest is a water-rich area and there are many public water fountains. Unfortunately, they often display signs giving a warning that their water is not potable (‘Kein Trinkwasser’). What this usually means is that no-one actually comes to check the water on a regular basis to make sure it is safe for human consumption and thus, if you drink it, you do so at your own risk. To be on the safe side, fill your water bottle at your hotel or ask at a serviced hut, restaurant or farm.
Dangers and annoyances
As mountain ranges go, the Black Forest is quite ‘civilised’ and comparatively ‘easy’. Trails are well maintained and clearly marked and the nearest village is never more than a few kilometres away. Even so, don’t underestimate the mountains – however bucolic they may seem!
If the weather suddenly turns you may be lucky and find a shelter hut nearby, but if you get caught in a raging thunderstorm be sure to avoid seeking shelter in the observation towers (which were built at the top of many hills in the region about 100 years ago to provide views above the tree cover, and which are therefore rather vulnerable to lightening strikes!). On windy days falling branches can become dangerous projectiles, and after heavy rain mudslides and falling rocks can make hiking treacherous.
Wild animals generally are of little concern in the Black Forest. Of the bigger mammals only wild boar poses a potential danger to humans and dogs, but they tend to avoid contact if they can. They are most active at dawn and dusk. Their senses of smell and hearing are very acute but their vision is terrible, so you’re more likely to startle them when walking very quietly. The most dangerous time to encounter them is when they are out foraging with their young; this used to be in late spring/early summer, but nowadays they find such a surplus of food that they may breed and have offspring at any time of the year.
There have been no reported cases of rabies in Germany since 2006 and large animals are rarely seen. Far more dangerous are the tiniest critters, such as ticks, which can carry Lyme disease or TBE (tick-borne encephalitis). Ticks generally inhabit the undergrowth and tall grasses in lower elevations up to 700m, but they have also been found at 1500m (in the Czech Republic). Walking on broad forest tracks poses no risk, but when walking through tall grass it is best to tuck in the bottoms of your trousers. Tick repellent is only effective for about 4 hours; outdoor clothes can be treated with permethrin, which is highly effective, but also highly poisonous. Vigilance is the best protection – wear light-coloured clothes that make it easier to spot ticks and always perform a thorough tick check at the end of the day. If you have been bitten, seek medical assistance immediately, especially if you notice the classic symptom of Borreliosis infection – the bull’s eye rash.
Adders like to hide beneath blueberry and cowberry bushes
There are very few species of snakes in Germany, and those that do exist are endangered and rarely seen. One of them is the adder, which likes to soak up the sun – sometimes quite close to a trail. They don’t attack unless they feel threatened, and most will escape without you even knowing they were there. However, you or your dog or child might startle them by suddenly getting off the trail and scrambling around in the blueberries. Incidents are very rare, and there have been no confirmed fatalities in the last 10 years or so. Nevertheless, snakebites can be serious, even though the poison itself is not deadly. It affects the circulatory system, and people suffering from cardio-vascular problems, dogs, children and the elderly are most at risk. To avoid trouble, stay on the trails and keep dogs on a leash. Adder habitat (such as around Schliffkopf) is often designated as a nature reserve, where getting off the trail and berry picking is prohibited.
When to go
It is best to plan this walk for the main walking season, between April and November. Although the lower sections will likely be perfectly passable, even in March or November, hotels and restaurants along the route are often closed during the off-season.
Wolfsgraben in autumn (Stage 13B)
Since the climate is not as reliable as it used to be, it has become more difficult to predict conditions. In general, spring and early summer (April–June) or autumn (September/October) tend to be the best months of the year. In spring the temperatures are pleasant and flowering meadows and blossoming orchards make for delightful scenery. September and October are often drier than the summer months, which can be hot and humid with frequent threats of heavy thunderstorms. In autumn the colourful foliage and morning fog rising from the valleys creates a special ambience. ‘Inversions’, when warm air at higher altitudes traps colder, moist air (fog) below, are a particularly delightful experience on autumn walks – so long as one is walking above the clouds, that is.
Inversion weather: walking in the sunshine above the clouds
Alas, Germans also tend to favour spring and autumn for their walking holidays, which means that trails can be quite busy and hotel rooms may be surprisingly difficult to find at short notice.
The county of Baden-Württemberg is always the last to take its summer vacations and school is out until the middle of September. Thus, ‘shoulder season’ does not start until about 15 September. Note that 3 October is ‘Reunification Day’ – a national holiday and among the busiest times of the year. In spring, Easter, Whitsun and Pentecost are the busiest times for walkers.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS IN BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG
The number of public holidays differs between federal states. Baden-Württemberg observes the following public holidays:
New Years Day: 1 January
Three Kings: 6 January
Good Friday: varies
Easter Monday: varies
Labour Day: 1 May
Ascension Day: varies
Whitsun: varies
Corpus Christi: varies
German Unification Day: 3 October
All Saints: 1 November
Christmas Day: 25 December
Boxing Day: 26 December
You can check specific dates of the moveable holidays at www.schulferien.org/Feiertage/Feiertage_Baden_Wuerttemberg.html
Equipment
The basic needs of walkers are pretty much the same anywhere and vary only according to the season. The smaller and lighter the pack, the happier a walker you will be.
Here is a list of useful items that are recommended:
fast-drying outdoor clothing (two sets of everything)
sun hat
warm hat
scarf
gloves
rain jacket and waterproof trousers
fleece jacket
gaiters (not essential, but helpful in wet weather)
micro-fleece magic towel
good, sturdy, well broken-in hiking boots (waterproof!)
walking poles
light trainers
refillable water bottle
lunchbox
energy bars
sunscreen
sunglasses
first aid kit (plasters/blister plasters, disinfectant, bandage)
personal medications you may need
tick removal kit
insect/tick repellent
camera and charger
maps and guidebook
mobile phone and charger
adapter plug
whistle
umbrella
torch
compass (optional)
It may seem ridiculous to pack a warm hat, scarf and gloves in summer, but the weather can change unexpectedly and you’ll be glad to have them when you need them, which could be at any time.
Maps, navigation and GPS
Maps
The most useful map for the Westweg is the Leporello map, at a scale of 1:50.000. Leporello maps are a bit odd in that they tack each bit of the way below the previous section, showing just a little bit of what lies east or west of the route, and the whole thing unfolding like an accordion. The scale is a bit small, but it still shows a surprising amount of detail as well as providing additional information, such as a brief route description (in German), hotels en route, places to eat, local tourist offices, museums and bus stops. The map is laminated, which makes it waterproof and tear resistant. It is available from the Black Forest Tourist Board (see Appendix C for contact details).
Kompass also publishes a map specifically for the Westweg. Like the Leporello map it uses a scale of 1:50.000, is laminated and provides some helpful additional information.
A bit more expensive is the Schwarzwaldverein map set for the Black Forest, consisting of five maps (Freizeitkarte 501, 502, 503, 506, 508) and a planning brochure that gives some additional information about the route and accommodation options. The Schwarzwaldverein maps are not laminated and are thus more vulnerable to wear and tear. The scale is also 1:50.000.
The Schwarzwaldverein also publishes maps at a scale of 1:35.000, but given the mostly excellent waymarking all along the route, such detailed maps are not really needed.
The Kompass and Leporello maps are available on Amazon, and walking maps are also available at bookshops, tourist offices and often newsagents in the region. The Schwarzwaldverein Westweg map set is available from their online shop: www.swvstore.de
In order to comply with the criteria stipulated to certify as a ‘quality hiking trail’, Westweg was rerouted in 2012. Maps printed prior to 2012 – and even some that were printed in 2013 – do not reflect these changes (which are mostly minor but could lead to confusion).
Navigation and signage
About a decade ago the Black Forest trail system underwent an extensive reform. Previously, markers of every shape, size and colour proliferated on every other tree. The trail system has since been condensed and simplified. Now there are basically three distinct types of markers, almost all of which take the form of a diamond. (But just to confuse matters, some local areas have hung onto their old signs and routes, which may not coincide with the new system.)
The Westweg marker is a solid red diamond on a white background, which is also the logo of the Schwarzwaldverein. (Note that the Mittelweg trail symbol is a red diamond with a white line through its centre.) Despite the fact that Westweg is extremely well marked and generally quite easy to follow, there are still a few spots where the marking is ambiguous, missing or counterintuitive. The trail may amble along on a broad forestry track, when suddenly a half-hidden marker may point to a tiny little trail that heads off through the bushes. Or, there are spots where the route splits into a couple of variants, offering walkers a choice. The present book describes all the official variants that were marked at the time of writing, but these things can change – another reason why it is important to carry a current map.
A typical hiking signpost on Westweg
