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Chapter 1: Think Positive

The key to good doggie manners is preventing bad ones rather than doing damage control once the dog has already made a mistake. With every jump on a horrified houseguest, your dog will be reminded how much fun it is to jump on people, especially when—oh, goodie!—they squeal and thrash like squeaky toys. The habit becomes increasingly difficult to break because it is inherently enjoyable for your dog. Instead of struggling to calm down a dog who is already jumping wildly, prevent this habit from starting. If you know guests will be arriving at 4:00 p.m., get your dog happily in his crate or confined to your bedroom with a treat-stuffed toy by 3:55. Don’t wait for the doorbell to ring and his doggie brain to explode.

As I mentioned in the Introduction, dog training actually has little to do with your dog. It has everything to do with how you react to your dog’s behavior. My clients at Doggie Academy often assume that my own dogs are perfectly behaved at all times, as if they’re finely tuned robots just awaiting my instructions. These owners sometimes gasp when I reveal, “No, no, trainers’ dogs misbehave all the time!” Go to any obedience competition or other dog sport, which is full of professional trainers, and you will see dogs with behavior issues such as reactivity to other dogs, excessive barking, and overexcitement. Trainers simply know how to nip those issues in the bud. For example, in the case of excitement barking, a trainer will be in tune to her dog’s emotions, able to pick up on the dog’s subtle signs of excitement that come before the barking starts, and thus able to prevent the barking before it happens. If the dog has already barked, a trainer will immediately address it by asking the dog to perform a calm behavior to change his focus, thereby stopping the barking without force. You will never see a good trainer let a dog get completely out of control and only then try to correct the behavior. By following the steps in this book, you can channel your inner dog trainer to help your dog engage in polite, rather than rude, behaviors.

When following any given training strategy in this book, there will be several steps. Follow each step in order, and resist the temptation to skip steps. Often when dogs don’t behave as we’d like, it’s because we’ve pushed ahead too quickly and they’re confused about what we’re asking them. When training, you and your dog are learning a language together, so it’s vital to take baby steps forward and make sure you’re communicating clearly at each step. If you’ve ever taken a language class in school, you know what happens if you skip a few lessons and then try to catch up. You’re totally lost, and now your instructor is speaking indecipherable gibberish reminiscent of the adults in Peanuts cartoons. At this point, you’re so stressed and confused that learning the language is pretty much impossible. As you train your dog, think of yourself as a language teacher who ensures that the student fully understands Lesson 1 before proceeding to Lesson 2. Go step by step with your training, and if your dog struggles at any point, revisit the previous step as outlined in the instructions.

To Treat or Not To Treat?

Most of us don’t work for free. Because we know our company will pay us, we do all kinds of things we wouldn’t otherwise do: wake up before sunrise, smile at coworkers before we’ve had our coffee, wear a uniform, and the list goes on. If we knew our company wouldn’t pay us for our efforts, I’m sure most of us would quit—or at least slack off. So why is it that we think our dogs should work for free? For dogs, rewards, such as treats, are payment for a job well done, and you’re the boss who has the ability to dish out those rewards. So be a good boss and pay your dog well, especially for difficult tasks like sitting when he’d much rather be jumping. This is the philosophy behind positive training, the form of training that I advocate because it is backed by extensive scientific research and has been proven to improve your dog’s behavior in a way that is enjoyable for both of you.

Ask yourself, “What motivates my dog?” For most dogs, tiny pieces of training treats (including bits of “real food,” like chicken, hot dog, or cheese) are highly motivating and easy to dispense. It is true that some dogs will gladly work for the reward of a “Good boy” and a pat on the head—and that’s great! But if your dog doesn’t fall into that category, be prepared to pay him in a currency that motivates him.

At the early stages of training, rewards accelerate the learning process because the dog gets excited to train with you and thinks, Last time I put my rear on the ground, I got a cookie. I’m going to try that again! The harder the task, the better your reward should be. There are generally two scenarios that make a task “hard” for the dog:

1 You are teaching him to do a new behavior. This could be something entirely new, like teaching him to lie down for the first time, or it could be a more difficult level of a behavior he already knows, such as a Stay for ten seconds when you’ve only practiced five-second Stays before. Your dog is working really hard here, and a super-tasty reward (or high-value reward, as trainers call it) will keep him in the game.

2 You are asking him to do something in a new or distracting environment. Asking your dog to sit in your living room is one thing; asking him to sit at a crosswalk in Times Square is another. When your dog is in a new, stressful, or distracting place, be ready to reward him handsomely for listening to you.

It’s easy for dog owners to underestimate how hard their dogs are working to be polite, especially when being asked not to jump, not to bark, or not to pull on the leash. Granted, it doesn’t look terribly impressive when a dog is sitting politely at a crosswalk, but think of it from the dog’s perspective: he is surrounded by interesting smells, tasty-looking food wrappers, noisy vehicles, and other dogs and people. Asking him to sit in that situation is asking him simultaneously to not do about ten other things that he’d rather be doing, and that’s very hard work. Therefore, in the early stages of training, the reward needs to be sufficiently motivating to keep him “in the game” with you.

I regularly see clients who believe that their dogs are not interested in treats, and while this is occasionally true, most of the time it’s that the owners are asking their dogs to do something very difficult (such as sit in the presence of distractions) but not paying them adequately for it. When I teach a dog how to do a Sit-Stay indoors, I generally use a low-value treat, like kibble. When I teach the same dog the same Sit-Stay at a crosswalk, I upgrade to hot dogs because I’m asking the dog to pay attention to me and ignore all the excitement around him, which is no small task. Once the dog has gained more impulse control and can more easily do the Sit-Stay at the crosswalk, I can reduce the frequency and tastiness of my rewards.

Occasionally, your dog deserves a “jackpot”—a series of several treats in a row to reward a really great response or the completion of a difficult behavior. While dogs don’t seem to notice the difference between a large treat and a small treat, they definitely know the difference between one treat and a series of treats. Being rewarded with a jackpot is like getting an A+ on an extra-difficult exam; you’re left with a glow because your hard work was well worth it, and you feel more motivated for your next task.

Beyond treats, there are other rewards you can incorporate into your routine:

 After your dog comes to you when called, reward him by tossing a toy or briefly playing tug. What fun it is to come to my human! I hope she asks me to come again, he thinks.

 Give the dog his meal only if he sits while you put the bowl on the floor. You were going to feed him anyway, so why not ask him to be polite for his dinner?

 Have him sit or lie down before being allowed on the sofa or bed. I usually have no problem with allowing my dogs on the couch with me, but they have to ask “Please” by sitting or lying down to get invited up.

 Only put on the leash if your dog is sitting. Here, the opportunity to get leashed up is the reward.

 Only let the dog out the door if he sits and waits until you say a release word, such as “OK.”

These kinds of “life rewards” accelerate your dog’s manners training because he is learning to be polite for whatever he wants throughout the day. Sitting is a behavior that doesn’t just get him a cookie during training sessions, it also gets him whatever he wants in his regular routine. With consistency, he learns that whenever he wants something, he should sit quietly. And then you’ll find him offering the Sit whenever he wants something, without even being asked. Good dog!

Sitting and waiting for the “OK” to eat.

This rewards-based style of training might be different from what you grew up with or even at odds with what some trainers in your area are promoting. The problem with the older, largely outdated “dominance” style of training is that it often relies on pain- and fear-inducing tactics to compel a dog to behave. While advocates of that method might say that they are teaching dogs to “respect” their owners, I am not convinced that dogs have the capacity for respect; respect is a loaded word that describes a rather complex relationship between two individuals. It is widely accepted that dogs have basic emotions such as fear, happiness, anger, and anxiety; however, it has not been proven that dogs have complex emotions that require reflection, including guilt and respect.

Books about dog cognition and behavior, such as Dog Sense by John Bradshaw, have gone in-depth into this topic using recent research. Those trainers who demand that dogs respect them may at times resort to techniques that are simply hurting or scaring the dogs. If my dog doesn’t sit, I pop him with the choke chain, and he sits to have that pain relieved. Yes, it works, but is that because the dog respects his owner as his leader? Or simply because he wants that pain to stop? This kind of training can easily be misused, eroding the trust between you and your dog and making your dog defensive around you. Training should not be a battle of wills or a struggle to be on top because it puts you at odds with your dog, and, as a result, nobody wins. Rather, training should be fun and simple enough for anyone, kids included, to do without the risk of hurting or scaring a dog. It should be something you and your dog do together.

Positive training techniques, on the other hand, are proven to be very effective in teaching polite behaviors, with the added benefit of building clear communication and a lifelong bond with your dog. With positive training, when the dog doesn’t sit (or lie down or stay) as you’ve asked, rather than punish him, you simply withhold the reward, which is “punishment” enough to a dog. Then ask yourself why he didn’t sit. Did you use a different tone of voice this time? Were you standing farther away from him? Did the phone ring at the same time, distracting your dog? In all of these cases, it’s not the dog’s fault that he didn’t sit. It’s the human’s mistake for either asking the dog to sit in a way he didn’t understand or asking the dog to sit it in a context in which it is currently too difficult for him to concentrate. When the focus is on clear communication rather than dominance, you and your dog can learn as a team.

Management versus Training

Let’s say your dog jumps on the sofa without permission, and you’d like him to stop. What should you do? Well, the answer depends on several factors, ranging from the amount of time you have to train to the layout of your home.

Management is generally the easiest option, as it doesn’t require actual training. Essentially, when you manage the space around you, you create an environment in which the dog can’t engage in the bad behavior. For example, if you don’t want your dog jumping on your sofa while you’re out, lay a folding chair across it. Now the sofa isn’t soft anymore, and your dog won’t be interested in lying there. Don’t have a folding chair? You can also manage the space by blocking his access to that room: shut certain doors, use a baby gate, or put him in a crate. Management is the appropriate choice when you can’t dedicate time to training or when you’re not there to monitor your dog (because you can’t train if you’re not present).

Though management is generally easier to implement than training, it doesn’t actually teach the dog to be more polite. You are simply preventing the undesired behavior from happening by blocking the dog’s access to whatever is causing the problem. When the sofa is unprotected, your pup will likely hop back on it. There is nothing wrong with the management approach, as long as you realize its limitations.

Training, on the other hand, is when we teach our dogs to do a polite behavior instead of the bad one. While I don’t have a problem gently telling a dog “No,” it’s necessary to follow it up by telling him what to do instead. This, of course, takes some time to practice. In the case of jumping on the sofa, one simple training strategy is to teach the dog to sit before being invited onto the sofa. By sitting and asking “Please,” he can have the reward of the sofa. Additionally, I would teach him a cue to go to his doggie bed because there are times when I don’t want the dog on the sofa, regardless of how politely he asks. Notice that by telling him to go to his own bed, I’m not just saying “No” to the sofa but also giving him instructions on where to go instead. Training is the way to have a truly polite dog, because it teaches your dog life skills that allow him to interact peacefully with you, your family, and your friends.

Imagine that your dog has learned how to jump up on your kitchen counter and help himself to anything and everything in your cupboards. What would you do? The management strategy is to block the dog’s access to this area. Close doors, use gates (open floor plans be damned!), use child safety locks to protect the cupboards, or crate your dog. All of these measures will prevent the problem behavior, but it may not actually train the dog to stay off the counters.

What about training your dog to stop counter-surfing? You can certainly do this, but just remember that every “No” should be followed with a “Do this instead.” Two of the strategies explained in later chapters would apply. One option is to teach a Leave It cue, which instructs your dog to walk away from the counter. Leave It basically tells the dog, “Stop approaching that tempting place and walk away instead.” Another possibility is teaching the dog that the kitchen is off-limits (but remember that you can only enforce such a rule when you’re home). When you’re in the kitchen cooking something delicious, send your dog out of the room and have him lie down on his bed or mat, which you can place right outside the kitchen. This is a variation of Place from Chapter 3, which tells the dog to go relax on his bed rather than to sniff around, looking for trouble. For counter-surfing or any other number of problems, such as begging at the table or dashing out an open door, Place prevents the problem from happening. Prevention is always a better strategy than doing damage control once the dog has already stolen your Thanksgiving turkey from the counter or run out the door as you were signing for your package.

In many cases, a combination of training and management strategies is often the best approach, using management to ensure that the bad habit doesn’t continue when you’re not home. Even when you are home, management stops the unwanted behavior from occurring; during that time, you can train your dog to behave differently in the presence of his triggers, whether it’s food on the counter or a squirrel crossing your path during walks.

For a dog who is accustomed to his crate, the crate can be a helpful management tool.

Sequence for Training

When it comes to communication between you and your dog, it’s a little different from the kinds of communication we’re used to. (However, the positive training techniques we use to train our dogs can also be used to train spouses or kids! Karen Pryor explains how to use positive reinforcement with animals and humans alike in her classic book Don’t Shoot the Dog.) When teaching your dog to lie down, for instance, what you do after the dog lies down is far more important than what you did before he lay down. What that means is that your cue to lie down doesn’t teach him much; it’s by “marking” and “rewarding” the correct Down position that you are actually teaching him. This is the typical sequence for teaching a dog a brand-new behavior:

Cue Princess to lie down. At first, you may need to lure her into position with a treat so she can follow the scent downward. Princess lies down.

Mark it. The moment Princess is fully lying down, say “Yes!” Why? “Yes” is a word that we generally don’t use around our dogs otherwise, so the dog will make a clear connection that the word “yes” means “good job; a reward is coming.” You may also click with a clicker (see page 24) or use a different verbal marker, such as “Good dog!” (If you want to get technical, trainers tend to avoid “Good dog/boy/girl” because we also tend to use it when Princess is simply being cute or funny, but we rarely say “Yes” to a dog in other situations.) The word itself is not so important, as long as you use the same word every time and say it at the exact moment the dog does the desired behavior. Marking the desired behavior is the way Princess learns what we want her to do.

Reward it. In the early stages of learning, rewards serve to encourage the dog to try the behavior again. It was so rewarding the first time, why not lie down next time, too?

Marking and rewarding go hand in hand. Marking identifies the behavior we want, and rewarding encourages the dog to do it again. If you mark too slowly—for instance, after Princess has popped back up from the Down—there is the chance that you’re marking the wrong behavior, and she will learn that “Down” means “lie down and stand up quickly” rather than “lie down and stay down.” Rewards should come pretty quickly after the verbal marker, within a second or two of marking, especially when you’re teaching a new behavior. Always reward Princess while she’s still doing the desired behavior. In this case, reward her while she’s lying down so she learns how awesome it is to lie down.

If Princess starts to lie down but then pops up into a stand, we mark that moment, too. We use a no-reward marker (NRM) like “Oops” or “Uh-uh” to identify the moment the dog did the wrong thing. When that happens, just say your NRM and start over. There’s no need for an angry tone, and, please, no physical corrections. When the dog makes a mistake, it is just that: a mistake. Imagine if your teacher punished you every time you made a mistake; you probably wouldn’t want to learn from this person anymore, and rightly so!

The last handy word is a release word, telling Princess that she can stop lying down now. I use “OK.” Without this word, she won’t know for how long to lie there, and she will eventually get up on her own. It’s better for you so release with “OK” before that happens.

There are several strategies to replace counter-surfing with acceptable behavior.

Cues

When I was growing up, dogs went to “obedience school” and obeyed “commands.” The attitude toward the dog was, “Do it. And if you don’t, expect unpleasant consequences.” As times have changed and training has evolved, so has the lingo. Obedience and commands are out, and manners and cues are in. This shows the current direction of dog training, which is more about the dog being polite than being obedient, and we recognize that the dog certainly has a choice whether to obey our cues or not. The goal of positive dog training is to make the polite behavior—such as sitting, rather than jumping, to be petted by a stranger—the better choice in the dog’s mind. Sure, he can choose to be rude, but only being polite gets him what he wants, so it’s in his best interest to listen to your cue.

Cues reveal a great deal about the differences between humans and dogs. We humans talk a lot, and it’s quite a challenge to get us to stop. In BKLN Manners™ and other group classes I teach, I always remind participants to say the cue only once. And almost every participant breaks this rule again and again, not because they are bad at following instructions but because they are normal human beings who tend to repeat the same thing, louder and louder, until they are acknowledged. (For an enlightening comparison of human and dog behavior, I recommend Patricia McConnell’s The Other End of the Leash.) If you think about dogs, though, they generally don’t vocalize, excluding arousing or alarming events like a doorbell ringing or rowdy off-leash play. In general, their world is pretty quiet, and for us to train them effectively, we need to put our human tendencies aside and follow suit.

So, from now on, unless told otherwise, give the cue only once. Once! (There I go, repeating myself like a human.) Imagine if you say, “Sadie, sit. Sit. SIT!” Finally, she does, but what has the cue become? It’s become two cues that Sadie can ignore, and only the third time does she have to listen. Instead, say the cue once and then ensure that the dog is in a situation in which she will definitely sit. This will be outlined in the steps of later chapters.

If, while training something new, you say the cue (e.g, “Sit) and the dog doesn’t immediately respond, count to ten in your head. Dogs, especially puppies, take a little extra time to process what you’ve said. Give your dog the chance to respond to your first cue; most dogs do if you just give them sufficient time. If you completely lose his attention, or more than ten seconds has passed, then reevaluate what may have gone wrong and start over. The next time you ask for a Sit, create a situation in which you know he will sit, possibly by moving to a quieter area or using a tastier treat, so he can be successful with just one cue.

Four-for-Four

Let’s go back to the metaphor of taking a language class. Either as a child or an adult, you have probably learned a foreign language to some extent. In my case, I have been taking Japanese language classes for more than a decade so I can communicate better with my Japanese in-laws. One program I took was divided into twelve levels, but there was no exam at the end of each level to determine if the students really understood the material enough to move on to the next level. All of the students moved up to more difficult levels at the end of each semester, regardless of proficiency. Without an assessment to gauge each student’s comprehension, what happened was, by Level 5 or so, students started getting in over their heads, lost their motivation, and many ultimately dropped out. Having a background in education, I already knew that when the material got overwhelming, I would need to repeat a level. And I did, at Level 6 and then again at Level 10. Despite criticism from my classmates (“Why are you wasting your money to repeat old material?” “If you want to feel like the best student in the class, maybe you should retake Level 1, ha ha!”), it was repeating those levels that allowed me to really absorb the information I’d learned and smoothly progress to Level 12—while my snarky classmates gave up and dropped out, one by one.

The same concept holds true for dogs. When teaching a new behavior, we want to make sure that the dog fully understands the criteria for Level 1 before we move on to Level 2. I recommend practicing “four-for-four,” which involves working on a new behavior at Level 1 until you get it correct four times in a row. It might take only your first four responses to move up to the next level, or it might take several more repetitions until you can get four correct responses in a row. Regardless, four-for-four will tell you that your dog really gets it, at which point you can proceed to Level 2 and practice at that level until you get four correct responses in a row. This is how you prevent yourself from pushing the dog too far too fast, which would put him under the same stress as a Japanese language student who can’t keep up.

To illustrate, if you’re practicing Place with Distance from Chapter 3, which teaches the dog to go to his bed and remain there, you would start by getting four-for-four while you stand next to the bed. This means repeating the same cue from the same short distance as many times as needed until your dog correctly goes to his bed four times in a row. Once you have those four correct responses, take one small sidestep away from the bed and cue the dog to his “place.” Now you’re at a more difficult level because you’re farther from the bed, so you’ll need to practice at this distance as many times as needed until your dog gets four correct responses in a row. Once you have four-for-four at that distance, take another small step away, get another four-for-four, and so forth.

Four-for-four is intended to prevent you, the handler, from advancing levels too quickly, and it works well for the majority of dogs. I should mention, though, that not all dogs require four-for-four to achieve success at a particular level. In fact, a few dogs may actually get bored by the second or third correct response, and if the difficulty doesn’t increase, they will lose focus. It’s fine to modify your training plan for a dog who only needs two-for-two or three-for-three.

The purpose of four-for-four is that you will never push your dog beyond his limits. Still, you might reach a point where, after practicing several sequences of a ten-step Heel, it becomes clear that your dog simply cannot get four-for-four correct. If this happens, it’s time to either lower the criteria or take a break, depending on how you and your dog are feeling. For dogs and humans alike, it’s frustrating to be asked to perform a task again and again without success. If your dog’s head is still in the game, do one five-step Heel and call it quits for a few hours. If you think even a five-step Heel is asking too much, just take a break immediately. Your dog’s success at Heel will be the product of repeated practice sessions over several weeks, so there is no need to push it when your dog’s brain is already fried on one particular day.

The Clicker Conundrum

I’m frequently asked, “Do I need a clicker to train my dog?” The answer, for better or worse, is, “It depends.” A clicker simply provides a clear way to mark a dog’s correct behavior; that is, you click the moment the dog does what you’re asking. If you’re teaching your dog to give you his paw, you would click the moment his paw touches your hand. In theory, it is no different from saying “Yes” to mark the correct behavior, but clickers have certain advantages:

 A clicker provides a unique, consistent sound. This gives the dog very clear feedback, compared to your voice, which fluctuates. (Think of all the different ways you could say “Yes!”)

 Some owners have better timing with clickers than their voices.

 The clicking sound can motivate dogs to work harder, and it can help some to focus on the task. It’s as if the dog gets excited to win more “clicks.”

 Because of the reasons above, clicker training is useful for shaping difficult behaviors by breaking them down into smaller steps. For example, if teaching a high five, you could first click a little paw lift, then a slightly higher paw lift, and so on.

Clickers also have some disadvantages:

 You have one more tool to hold. While there are many variations, including ones that slip on your finger like a ring, you’re still carrying one more piece of equipment.

 Some dogs are afraid of the clicking sound. This doesn’t mean you can’t clicker train, but you might need to purchase a quiet clicker or condition the dog to muffled clicking sounds at first.

 Poor clicker timing can be more confusing for the dog than an ill-timed verbal marker. Occasionally an owner needs to practice clicker timing before introducing it to a dog.

 Some kids can’t keep their hands off of the clicker. There is no point in using a clicker if a family member routinely uses it for anything other than training.

 Once your dog fully understands how to, say, high five, you no longer need the clicker. Determining when to stop clicking for a certain behavior can be confusing for some people.

Ultimately, the choice is yours. I tend to use clickers with Doggie Academy clients who are interested in the training process or who plan to do higher level activities such as trick training or freestyle (described in Chapter 8). I also often use clicker training with distractible or reactive dogs because the sound is clearer than a verbal marker, which makes training a little easier and faster.

Distractions

The most successful trainers, whether amateur or professional, are the ones who can leave their frustrations aside while training. Imagine if your third-grade teacher huffed and puffed every time you misspelled a word. Would it make you learn to spell any faster? When a dog misbehaves or doesn’t follow your cue, it’s never personal. Generally, the dog either does not understand your cue (perhaps because you didn’t do four-for-four), or you are in a situation with excessive distractions. Both of these situations can be easily remedied with methodical training.

Always set your dog up for success when teaching a new behavior. Start training new things in a setting with no distractions, such as in a quiet room. I consider this the preschool level for your dog, because it should be like a game: easy and fun. As your dog is successful at each level, he can move up a “grade,” which means you can gradually increase the level of distractions while training. For instance, when I teach a dog polite leash walking, the progress looks something like this:

1 Preschool: Start inside your home and use lots of treats to reward polite walking until the dog really understands it.

2 Kindergarten: Still indoors, gradually reduce the number of treat rewards.

3 Elementary school: Go to a low-distraction outdoor area (a backyard or side street at the most quiet time of day) and use lots of treats to reward polite walking until the dog really understands it.

4 Middle school: Still in a low-distraction outdoor area, gradually reduce the number of treat rewards.

5 Junior high: Go to a somewhat higher distraction outdoor area, like a side street at a busy time, and use lots of treats to reward polite walking until the dog really understands it.

Gradually increase the distractions until you reach PhD level, which might be a train station or bustling urban area. You’ll find that, even though you’re starting from scratch by using more treats for each new level of distraction, your dog will be able to progress quickly. By working up to higher distractions methodically, you’ll never overwhelm your dog. In the process, you’ll also fine-tune your communication and enhance your bond with him. Therefore, training actually goes much faster when you stick to the plan and avoid skipping steps because your dog “gets it” and has fun each step of the way.

How to Find a Trainer

In the subsequent chapters, I will provide suggestions for when to contact a trainer rather than try to work through your dog’s issue yourself. There are many excellent dog trainers out there, but because dog training is an unregulated profession in which anyone can call him- or herself a trainer, you need to choose carefully. Personally, I’m big on certifications because they show a professional’s commitment to the field and willingness to participate in the continuing-education requirements that are required to maintain certification. But not all certificates are created equal.

There are few things to look for to ensure that a trainer is trustworthy and qualified. If you see CPDT-KA or CPDT-KSA after the trainer’s name, you can feel comfortable knowing that the trainer has passed a third-party assessment test that focuses on scientifically proven models of training. Failing that, find out if a trainer has graduated from a dog-training school or apprenticeship program; the trainer should mention this information on his or her website or provide it upon request. But, again, because dog training is unregulated, some programs are excellent and others are not. Research the program to see its philosophy, which should emphasize positive training (also called force-free or rewards-based training). Be wary of trainers or schools that frequently use words like alpha, dominance, or wolf pack, because these terms indicate an outdated and inaccurate understanding of dog behavior. Lastly, a trainer’s membership in associations such as the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT) or a dog-sport association is a plus, but just be aware that these organizations do not evaluate trainers’ qualifications. That being said, if you see that a trainer holds a leadership position in any association, or participates in canine sports, or volunteers in animal rescue, it usually indicates an individual who sees dogs not just as a job but as a passion.

The most difficult behavior problems often fall to behaviorists, who have the highest qualifications and are harder to find than trainers, depending on your area. If someone calls him- or herself a behaviorist, look for credentials. Technically, the term behaviorist refers to applied animal behaviorists (look for CAAB or ACAAB) or veterinary behaviorists (DACVB); these are professionals with advanced academic degrees. Other acronyms that indicate experienced behavior consultants include IAABC, CDBC, CBCC, and CABC. If a professional claims to be a behaviorist, he or she should have some kind of certification to back it up.

It’s also worth noting that seemingly everyone—your neighbors, your vet, your groomer, complete strangers—fancy themselves experts on dog training. Please ignore every single one of them. Yes, even your vet, unless he or she has been formally trained in behavior. (Surprisingly, vets generally do not take coursework in animal behavior.) You wouldn’t want me, a trainer, diagnosing your dog’s illness, right? And you certainly wouldn’t want to leave me with a pair of scissors and your hairy pooch for the day! So for all things doggie, please only take advice from trained and trusted professionals in that specific field.

It’s common for a dog to be distracted by the sights, sounds, and smells of the city.

Let’s Get this Party Started

It’s time to get training! Before you start, keep a few things in mind.

Tip 1: Training is a time to put your emotions aside. If you’ve had a terrible day and your last nerve is about to snap, the training can wait. Likewise, if you find yourself or your dog getting frustrated in the middle of a training session, it’s time for a break. I’d suggest short training sessions of five minutes or less, especially for young dogs. Additionally, always begin and end on a positive note. To do this, I warm up by beginning each training session with something the dog already knows. For instance, if my goal for a training session is a ten-second Stay, I will warm up with a regular old Sit, which the dog already knows. Then, when I’m ready to end the training session, I have two options: (1) I can practice until my dog achieves four-for-four at a new level, like a perfect Stay at ten seconds. This assumes that both our heads are still fully in the game and neither of us feels frustrated. (2) If one of us is showing early signs of struggling, I’ll make my last cue an easy one so the dog will definitely be able to do it correctly. For example, if my dog is getting frustrated and making mistakes with a ten-second Stay, I’ll reduce it to five seconds, get a good response, and end there. If you can’t get a good response at the easier level, don’t push it. Take a break. Just ask yourself, “Why did my dog (or I) feel so frustrated?” and aim to avoid putting yourselves in that situation in the future.

Tip 2: Use four-for-four when training to ensure that your dog truly understands each step. I also recommend documenting your progress in (see Appendix) by noting exactly where you leave off in each training session. Imagine if you don’t record your progress. “Was it a Place with 1 foot or 2 feet of distance between me and the dog’s mat?” To avoid that kind of confusion, record the highest level of training you achieved each session, such as, “Place with 18 inches between me and the mat.” Then, when you start your next session, you can warm up with an easier Place, at 1 foot away, and then increase to greater distances. Be methodical in your training, and you’ll reap the rewards for your dog’s entire life.

Tip 3: Real-life training takes time, and all dogs learn at their own pace. We’re often inspired by dog-training television shows, thrilling agility events, or incredible musical freestyle routines, but these things can also dishearten us when we look at our own dogs. Just remember that behind every success story are countless hours of hard work, complete with setbacks and frustration, breakthroughs and joy. Even the most incredible doggie stars had to start by learning not to jump, not to pull on the leash, and not to destroy the furniture. So my advice is to meet your dog where he is, even if it seems like you’re not making progress as quickly as you’d like.

It can feel frustrating when you think your dog “should” know a certain behavior by now, and it’s easy to blame the dog and assume that he is an evil genius who is playing mind games with you. In reality, your dog is failing to do what you’re asking because he truly does not yet understand how to perform that behavior in that environment. Many owners tell me, “My dog knows how to sit, but he refuses to do it outside.” In fact, the dog may have learned how to sit inside the home, but he doesn’t have a clue that the Sit cue means “sit” outdoors, too. He’s not playing tricks, he simply hasn’t been taught that “Sit” applies to all environments, including outdoors. The chapters that follow will show you how to teach polite behaviors so that your dog generalizes them, which means that he understands the cue in all situations. Great dogs are made, not born, and regardless of your dog’s size, age, or breed, he can learn to be a polite member of your family.