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Understanding Thai Ingredients

Thai cooking is all about creating contrasts from the hot and sour to the sweet and pungent to the spicy and fragrant using a combination of core ingredients. When I asked my Minneapolis-based sister, Laura, to test one of the recipes for this book, I was delighted to hear that she could find everything she needed for the recipe at her local grocery store. Times have really changed since the days when we couldn’t even find fresh ginger at our neighborhood supermarket growing up in the Midwest. With the soaring popularity of Asian cooking, many grocery stores or specialty stores carry the basic Thai ingredients you will need to cook everyday Thai food. In some cases, you may need to make a trip your local Asian market (bring the kids because it is always a fun adventure). If you don’t live in an area with an Asian market, there are several on-line ethnic specialty food resources (page 140). Once again, simplicity is the key theme in Thai cooking so it isn’t difficult to keep main pantry items on hand with your dishes ultimately coming alive with fresh vegetables, aromatic herbs, and proteins.

Bamboo shoots are the part of a bamboo plant that is harvested before it matures. The edible part is the tender cream-colored meat inside the shoot. Large shoots are often sliced and added to curries. Smaller shoots can be eaten whole as a dish onto themselves, either cooked or pickled. Available fresh, canned or bottled, bamboo shoots are found in Asian markets and many grocery stores.

Banana leaves make a beautiful and aromatic wrap for foods like rice, fish, and meat. The long, waxy leaves transfer some of their subtle grassy aroma to any food wrapped within them. Before using banana leaves, they should be placed in hot water or carefully held over a flame for a few seconds to make them more pliable. if you can’t find banana leaves, use lotus or large cabbage leaves, or, the old stand-by, aluminum foil. The leaves are often sold frozen in Asian and Latin markets. I buy a few packs at a time to have on hand in my freezer. They’re great for dressing up platters when entertaining.

Basil (Thai and holy) is an essential ingredient in Thai cooking and is used throughout this book. Thai basil and holy basil are the two most commonly used varieties of basil in Thai cooking. Thai, or Asian, is a tropical variety with a strong peppery, anise flavor that stands up really well to cooking. It has purple flowers, red-tinged stems, and pointy green leaves. Holy basil is so named because it is held sacred in the hindu culture. It is revered in Thai cooking for its subtle, minty flavor that comes alive when heated. When buying either variety, choose bunches that are fresh, fragrant, and show no signs of wilting. Separate the leaves from the stems and wash and dry them well before use. A substitute for either variety is fresh italian basil (the kind found in most supermarkets). Italian basil isn’t quite as fragrant or flavorful as Thai or holy basil so you may want to add a bit more.

Black mushrooms Also known as dried shiitakes or fragrant mushrooms, black mushrooms are incredibly versatile. When dried black mushrooms are presoaked in water they plump up and have a deliciously meaty taste and texture. Strain the water used to soak the mushrooms and add it to dishes to add even more flavor to stir-fries, soups, rice dishes, and curries.

Coconut milk Slightly sweet and creamy with a light jasmine aroma, coconut milk is a popular ingredient in Thai cooking. It adds richness and flavor to curries, sauces, soups, desserts, and drinks. Made by pressing fresh coconut flesh, the first pressing produces thick, creamy coconut cream, and subsequent pressings produce thinner, yet still creamy, coconut milk. It is widely available in cans. Choose an un-sweetened variety and shake it well because it will have separated in the can. Coconut milk is widely available and available at most grocery stores. It’s also great for lactose-free diets.

Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) Also known as Chinese parsley, coriander leaves are one of the most popular fresh herbs in the world and are used throughout the recipes in this book. Its refreshingly spicy, citrusy flavor tempers the heat in many Thai dishes. Whether chopped to release its maximum flavor or left whole, coriander leaves are best enjoyed raw and added just before serving a cooked dish. Fresh coriander leaves, seeds, and stems are also important ingredients in Thai cuisine. The seeds are coriander, a spice that is an ingredient in some Thai dishes. The stems have a strong peppery aroma, which makes them a popular addition to curry paste and homemade stocks.

Curry pastes The most common ingredients in curry pastes include chilies, garlic, galangal, and lemongrass, which are ground together into an intensely aromatic paste. What gives each curry paste its distinct color depends on whether curry powder or chilies have been added to the mix. Yellow curry paste gets its color from curry powder, which contains turmeric, and is the sweetest kind of curry paste. Green curry paste contains green chilies and has a brighter, sharper flavor than other curry pastes. Thick red curry paste gets its color and bold spiciness from red chilies. A sealed container of curry paste can last up to a month in the refrigerator. My favorite brands are Maesri and Mae Ploy.

Curry powder Curry powder is traditionally made from ground turmeric, coriander, cumin, and dried red pepper. Curry powder gives yellow curry its distinct color and slightly sweet, tangy flavor. Curry powder’s flavor “opens up” when heated, most often in coconut milk or oil. Curry powder is widely available in the spice section of your grocery store. American brands tend to run on the mild side, so go to an Asian or Indian market if you prefer a spicier curry powder.

Dark soy sauce Made from fermented soybeans, dark soy sauce is aged longer and is slightly sweeter and thicker than regular soy sauce. It sometimes contains molasses or caramel to deepen its color and thicken its consistency. Heating dark soy sauce releases its full, rich flavor in sauces and gravies used in stir-fries and noodle dishes like Pad Wee Ew and Thai Flat noodles. It is also a popular ingredient in marinades and dipping sauces. Dark soy sauce can keep for a long time in a cool, dry place. Discontinue use if it has any crystallization around the opening of the bottle or shows any thickening at the bottom of the bottle. You can find dark soy sauce at Asian markets and some specialty stores.

Chilies There are almost as many varieties of chilies as there are cultures. Thai chilies happen to be some of the hottest. Small or long, green or red, dried or fresh, Thai chilies are used in everything from curries and soups to sauces and flavored vinegar. The two most popular varieties are long Thai chili and small Thai chili. Small, bird or bird’s-eye chili, is more common in the United States than long Thai chili, and ranges from mild to very hot. Wear rubber gloves when cutting hot chilies, or be sure to wash your hands thoroughly afterwards to avoid getting the oil on your face or in your eyes. Also, wash cutting surfaces after chopping chilies or you may transfer the heat to other foods. I recommend using fresh jalapeño or Serrano chilies if you can’t find Thai chilies. Deseed chilies if you prefer less heat or omit altogether or choose a milder type if cooking for young children.

Dried shrimp paste This pungent paste is made from fermented dried shrimp and salt and is used to make curry pastes, sauces, and soups. Sold in small jars or blocks, a little goes a long way! Dried shrimp paste should be used sparingly as it’s quite pungent and strong in aroma. You’ll only need this ingredient to make Roasted Red Chili Paste (page 23) in this book. Dried shrimp paste is available at Asian markets.

Fish sauce (nam pla) No Thai kitchen is complete without a bottle of fish sauce. In fact that goes for every kitchen throughout Southeast Asian. I collect bottles of fish sauce like other people collect bottles of wine. Fish sauces range from mild to strong and smoky to pungent. The finest ones are clear and light amber in color. Fish sauce is made from layering anchovies and salt in a sealed container for about six months then siphoning off the fermented liquid. Fish sauce’s signature fishy, briny aroma dissipates when cooked. It emboldens and brings together the other flavors in any dish. I prefer ones with no sugar added so that the fishy aroma shines through. Fish sauce doesn’t need to be refrigerated. It will keep indefinitely in the cupboard. As a general rule, 1 tablespoon of fish oil equals 1 teaspoon of salt. A good substitute is soy sauce mixed with a splash of oyster sauce or anchovy paste.

Five spice powder As the name suggests, this is a combination of five ground spices: star anise, Sichuan pepper, fennel, cloves and cinnamon. Complexly pungent and spicy with a hint of sweetness, it can be found in Asian markets and some grocery stores.

Galangal is similar to ginger, but galangal has a more lemony, piney taste and less pungent heat. Harder than ginger, with a thicker, tougher skin, galangal distinguishes itself by its lovely pink color. Rarely used on its own, galangal is a lovely complement to lemongrass, garlic, chili, and onions in curries, soups, and stir-fries. A wonderful meat tenderizer, galangal is also a popular ingredient in rubs and marinades. If you have trouble finding galangal, fresh ginger is a fine substitute.

Ginger is an incredibly popular ingredient in Thai and other Asian cuisines, fresh ginger has a spicy, sweet, peppery bite that is unmistakable. heavy, firm pieces of fresh ginger are the best. The most flavorful part of the root is the meat closest to the peel, so trim ginger with a light touch. The peel can be used to make a deliciously spicy and soothing tea. Powdered ginger is also available, but isn’t as flavorful as fresh ginger.

Hoisin sauce is traditionally made from red rice brewed with soybean paste, garlic, sugar, star anise, chili paste, and other spices. It ranges in color from reddish brown to mahogany. It is a favorite marinade, glaze, and dipping sauce. Hoisin sauce has a very strong taste that can overpower other ingredients, so add it to a dish a little bit at a time until you get the flavor and heat you desire. Although nothing can truly match the flavor of hoisin sauce, Chinese barbecue sauce or tomato sauce blended with oyster sauce work can substitute in a pinch. Hoisin sauce is widely available at many grocery stores and Asian markets.

Jasmine rice is revered in Thailand as it is in other Asian countries so much so that is also referred to as “noble” rice or “beautiful” rice. Most Thai meals are accompanied by jasmine rice which is an aromatic, long- grain rice that is tender and slightly sticky when cooked. Considered by many to be the most fragrant rice in the world, jasmine rice has a sweet, nutty aroma. Thailand produces the highest quality variety, but very good jasmine rice is also grown in texas. Thai cooking mostly calls for white jasmine rice, but brown jasmine rice is available as well.

Kaffir lime leaves have a distinct hourglass shape, glossy shine, and a complex aroma that evokes orange, clove, lime, and citrus. Whole or sliced leaves are commonly used as a garnish or added to curries, stir-fries, soups, and salads. Kaffir lime leaves can also be crushed or ground to add a deliciously tangy and citrusy flavor to sauces. Dried kaffir lime leaves don’t have much flavor, so a better substitute would be young, fresh lemon, lime, or grapefruit leaves. Kaffir lime leaves are not easy to find so i’ve made them optional for the recipes in this book.

Lemongrass has a delicious lemony woodsy flavor without the acidity or sharpness of an actual lemon. The most tender and edible parts of this thin, reedy plant are the bulb and lower 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) of the inner core. Chopped, sliced or ground, fresh lemongrass is used in curry pastes and soups, and pairs especially well with galangal. Buy fresh lemongrass in bunches at Asian markets or at some farmers markets during the summer. Chopped fresh lemongrass freezes well, which comes in handy when a bowl of soothing lemongrass-scented soup is desired on a cold winter’s night. A substitute for lemongrass is sliced lime leaves, or sliced lime or lemon rind. If fresh lemongrass isn’t available you can use frozen lemongrass or minced lemongrass in a tube available in the produce section of some grocery stores.

Oyster sauce Brewed from dried oysters, salt and water, oyster sauce has a deep, rich brown color. The best varieties are thick and rich, with a distinct oyster aroma, which dissipates when cooked. Oyster sauce is slightly sweet and makes a less salty alternative to soy sauce. It is used as an ingredient in stir-fries, a table condiment, marinade, and barbecue sauce. A substitute for oyster is soy sauce blended with fish sauce.

Palm sugar Nicknamed the “maple sugar of the tropics,” palm sugar is made by boiling down the sap of the coconut palm tree or sugar palm tree. It has a light caramel color and tastes a bit like maple syrup with a slightly smokier taste. It is commonly sold in a solid disc or block, but it is also available granulated or in a paste. Solid palm sugar should be grated, shaved, or melted before adding it to sweets, drinks, curries, and other dishes. Palm sugar is increasing in popularity throughout the U.S. If you can’t get your hands on any, then dark brown sugar or maple syrup makes a good substitute.

Roasted red chili paste (nam prik pao) Roasted red chili paste is a blend of ground red pepper and other ingredients like garlic, shallots, dried shrimp paste, and tamarind. Intense and complex, it is packed with so much flavor that a little goes a long way. A staple of Thai cuisine, it is featured in soups, sauces, stir-fries, and rice dishes. It can also be enjoyed on its own as a lively dip or spread.

Sambal oelek is a fiery red chili-garlic paste used as a condiment and cooking ingredients all over Malaysia and Thailand. Traditionally, little more is added to the chilies than water, salt, garlic, or vinegar. Sambal oelek adds significant heat without overpowering the other flavors in a dish.

Sriracha sauce traditional Sriracha sauce is a hot chili paste named after the seaside town where it originated. The most popular Sriracha sauce in the United States is Huy Fong Sriracha hot Chili Sauce, affectionately known as “Rooster Sauce” because of the picture of the rooster on the bottle. Made from red jalapeño chilies, vinegar, garlic, sugar, and salt, it has a rich, complex flavor and significant heat. Many fans of Srircha don’t limit it to Thai food—they put it on everything from eggs to pizza and more. Kikkoman also produces a Sriracha sauce available at grocery stores.

Dried glass noodles Also known as cellophane noodles, bean thread noodles, and Chinese vermicelli, these delicate thread noodles are made from green mung bean flour. Dried glass noodles are presoaked in hot water for a few minutes before cooking, unless they are added to a soup or deep-fried. Like tofu, bean thread noodles absorb the flavors of the other ingredients in a dish.

Rice noodles Thin or wide, flat or round, rice noodles come in many shapes and sizes. Made from rice flour and water, rice noodles are available dried or fresh. Dried rice noodles can be presoaked and softened in hot water before cooking, or they can be dropped directly into hot oil for crispy noodles—for a dramatic “explosive” effect. Packaged fresh noodles are usually coated with oil to prevent clumping, so you might want to give them a rinse before cooking.

Rice sticks come in a variety of widths. Thin sticks work well for soups and steamed noodle dishes. Wider rice sticks are ideal for stir-fries like the ever-popular pad Thai. Most commonly sold dry, rice sticks start out opaque and become transparent when soaked in water. Fresh rice sticks can be found in any Asian market.

Rice vermicelli noodles Also known as rice threads, vermicelli rice noodles are usually sold dried and in a block. The noodles should be presoaked when being used in spring rolls, stir-fries and salads. They can also be dropped straight from the package into soups or into hot oil to make crispy noodle dishes like mee krob.

Flat wide rice noodles Wider than rice sticks, these noodles are most famously used for Thai Flat noodles (page 104) a popular stir-fry dish made with thick brown gravy, broccoli, and a protein like meat, seafood or tofu. Also known as river noodles, they hold up better in heavy gravy than thinner noodles. They’re sold fresh or dried.

Rice paper wrappers Rice paper is made by mixing white rice flour and water, then spreading the mixture out into thin sheets and steaming them or sun-drying them. Rice paper serves as the wrap for spring rolls and other rollups like summer rolls. Before using rice paper it must be moistened in warm water or by carefully holding them over steam.

Sticky rice (sweet or glutinous rice) a beloved staple in Thai cuisine, sticky, sweet or glutinous rice is a medium to long grain variety of rice that becomes sticky when cooked. Traditionally steamed, not boiled, sticky rice is used in both sweet and savory dishes, and is usually eaten by hand in Thailand.

Tamarind is the pod-like fruit of the tamarind tree. There are two varieties of tamarind: tart and sour-sweet. Fresh tart tamarind is eaten with salt and chili, or chopped into chili paste. The pulp of tart tamarind is often added to soups, curries, sauces, and stir-fries. Sour-sweet tamarind is mostly used in making desserts and candy. Its flavor can be described as a cross between a date, sour-sweet guava, and an apricot. Tamarind concentrate or paste is available in jars, bottles, and solid blocks. Tamarind concentrate is mixed with water to create tamarind water. A substitute for tamarind concentrate or paste is date purée mixed with lime juice or combine equal parts vinegar, soy sauce, and sugar.

Turmeric found in most kitchens is the powdered form made from the turmeric root, which looks a lot like fresh ginger. Turmeric powder has a deep yellow color and a lovely rose aroma. It is used in curries, marinades, rice dishes, and when pickling. Turmeric powder is a powerful natural dye so handle it with care because it can permanently stain clothing. Prized in its own right, turmeric powder also makes an inexpensive alternative to saffron when combined with ground clove, cardamom, and cinnamon. Fresh turmeric is also available, but it can be a little bitter.

Spring roll wrappers can be found at Asian markets and come in 4-inch (10 cm) or 8-inch (20 cm) squares. They fry up light and crispy and are used for the Banana Spring Roll (page 138) in this book.

Star anise is the seedpod of a small tree found throughout Asian. The star-shaped spice has a warm, rich and pungent aroma of licorice, cinnamon, and clove. The actual seeds inside the pod are tiny, black and have no flavor. Used whole to add a subtle aroma or ground for maximum flavor, star anise is a popular ingredient in soups, curries, sweets and teas. A substitute for star anise is a blend of ground cloves and cinnamon.

Straw mushrooms get their name because they are cultivated on beds of straw. They are actually shaped like little helmets and have a delicate, sweet flavor. They are the most widely used mushroom in traditional Thai cooking and are added to soups, curries, stir-fries, and more. Fresh straw mushrooms can be hard to find in the United States, but the canned variety are available at most Asian markets.

Yard-long beans or long beans Summertime brings an abundance of fresh long beans, or yard-long beans, to Asian markets. They get their name because they really can grow to be about a yard in length. Long beans look and taste a bit like regular green beans, but their taste, texture, and juiciness don’t hold up as well when boiled or steamed. They really come alive when stir-fried or deep-fried. If you can’t find yard-long beans, you can substitute with fresh green beans.

Yellow bean paste also known as soy bean paste or yellow bean paste, yellow bean paste is made from fermented sweet yellow soybeans. Yellow bean paste adds a light, malty flavor to noodle dishes and curries. You’ll only need this ingredient to make Thai Flat noodles (page 104). I like the healthy Boy brand with a drawing of an adorable little boy on the label.