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DAY 1

Glenapp to Ballantrae

Start	Glenapp NX 074 746
Finish	Kennedy Mausoleum, Ballantrae NX 083 824
Distance	8½ miles (13.5 km)
Time	4 hours
Terrain	This route is on mostly rugged moorland tracks and paths, which can be indistinct on occasion and sometimes boggy. A couple of sections are also quite steep. The initial climb from Glenapp is through forest before farm roads and a short section of pavement beside the busy A77 lead into Ballantrae.
Maps	OS Landranger 76; OS Explorer 317
Refreshments	There is a shop and hotel in Ballantrae.
Transport	A regular Stagecoach bus from Ballantrae to Stranraer stops at Glenapp. See Appendix C for details.

The first day of the Ayrshire and Arran Coastal Paths is a short one. Glenapp to Girvan in a single day is feasible but it is long, whereas Glenapp to Ballantrae provides a short but memorable first day and guarantees fresh legs for the longer days ahead. An initial walk through forest climbs onto open moorland above Glenapp. Almost immediately you are struck by the rugged and remote nature of the coast, with much of it well away from any main roads. A good track descends through lovely Currarie Glen and then climbs steeply onto a cliff-top path towards Ballantrae providing magnificent views across Loch Ryan to Galloway and across the Firth of Clyde to Ailsa Craig, Arran, Kintyre and Ireland. Along this section the path becomes indistinct at times but the route is well waymarked when necessary. A singletrack road then passes through some farms (dogs should be kept on leads for the majority of this route) and the day ends at Ballantrae where a stroll around Kennedy Mausoleum is highly recommended. Ballantrae has a shop, a hotel and several B&Bs.

The Ayrshire Coastal Path is a 94-mile route that showcases some of Scotland's finest scenery, but it has a relatively understated start point at the humble surrounds of Glenapp. Consisting of only a few houses and a very fine church, Glenapp nonetheless provides a peaceful backdrop to the route's start and it is a lovely location to begin a long-distance walk.

Glenapp can be reached by either car or bus and although there is a very small car park across the road from Glenapp Church there is room here for only three or four cars, so it is advisable to use the excellent bus service to drop you at the bottom of the lane leading to the church. If you choose to drive, walk from the car park past Old School House and as the road end is reached turn left to cross the A77. If you take the bus, get off at Glenapp Church and simply walk up the track to the church.

GLENAPP CHURCH

Built in 1850, Glenapp Church was originally a chapel-of-ease for the villagers of nearby Ballantrae. Many towns and villages in Scotland at this time had a chapel-of-ease, which were built to solve the problems of worshippers who could not travel to the larger parish churches; the distance and terrain between Glenapp and Ballantrae would have been too difficult for many during the 19th century. With seating for approximately 70, it is one of the smallest churches in Scotland. In 1985 the church became united with the larger church in Ballantrae. Known locally as The Glen Kirk, it is one of the many fine buildings to be found along the Ayrshire coast.

It is a beautiful little building with lovely stained glass windows, one of which commemorates Elsie MacKay, a British actress and member of the Inchcape family (Glenapp is their family seat) who died while attempting to fly across the Atlantic Ocean in 1928. The graveyard also contains the tombstone of her father James Lyle MacKay, the 1st Earl of Inchcape (a title in the peerage of the United Kingdom that was created in 1929). Its elaborate design includes the carved figures of an eagle, owl, lion and tiger. The memorials to the 2nd Earl, Kenneth MacKay and the 3rd, Kenneth James William MacKay can also be seen in the graveyard. The beauty of the church really sets the scene for the walk ahead.

After exploring the church walk back down the path to reach the A77 and, taking care, cross the busy road to reach the start point of the Ayrshire Coastal Path. A good track leads to an old bridge over the Water of App and then descends to another bridge, the track continuing through lovely mixed woodland. It provides easy walking as you pass Craiganlea House on the left, then it bears right at a waymarked sign to climb steadily, passing beneath the slopes of Sandloch Hill.

The Ayrshire and Arran Coastal Paths begin near the attractive Glenapp Church

The superb views continue as you walk north with Arran, Ailsa Craig and Kintyre all visible

As the stony track climbs, go through a wooden gate that takes you above the line of trees. Here the views across Loch Ryan towards Galloway are superb. Corsewall Lighthouse is visible at the northern tip of the Rhins of Galloway peninsula (the southern tip of which is the most southerly point in Scotland) as it guides the ferries travelling to and from Northern Ireland into the loch. The track then continues high onto open moorland, where it may surprise you to find such a wild landscape.

Although the path here alternates between grassy and stony the route makes for easy progress. A fence runs to the left of the path with Finnarts Hill rising beyond it, while the slopes of Sandloch Hill to the right are vibrant with a thick covering of heather during the summer months. As it continues north the track becomes less steep and passes through a wooden gate at an old sheep enclosure, before it reaches another gate.

Go through the gate to continue onto a path that becomes grassier with Penderry Hill rising to the right. Windswept moorland is all around but as two standing stones are passed the views west to Kintyre (and Ireland on very clear days) are superb. It is here that the first real views of the rugged Ayrshire coastline can be enjoyed. As the track descends quite steeply to the north it bears right then flattens out, with gorse bushes to the right and a dry stone dyke to the left, before it passes through another wooden gate.

Two more wooden gates are passed on this track. After going through the second, stick to the main track and ignore the indistinct path descending to the left, which leads to Portandea. Go through two more gates to reach a junction of dry stone dykes. From here the level grassy track leads through mixed trees of hawthorn and gorse and there are expansive views that provide the first look at Ailsa Craig, its wonderful profile a mainstay throughout much of the route.

The wonderful, distinctive profile of Ailsa Craig rises out of the Firth of Clyde, seen here from Ballantrae

AILSA CRAIG

The distinctive cone of Ailsa Craig, which lies some 15 miles off the Ayrshire Coast, rises sharply to over 1100ft in height and has a diameter of approximately one mile. The island is renowned worldwide due to the quality of its granite, used in the production of curling stones, and quarrying took place on the island for many years. Quarrying has now stopped but loose pieces of granite are still taken to be used for curling stones, the production of which still takes place in the Ayrshire village of Mauchline. Ailsa Craig is a popular tourist destination with daily sailings from Girvan allowing visitors to walk on the island and view the wonderful birdlife that calls Ailsa Craig home.

The track then descends slightly to a fork in the road. Go right here (passing a couple of farm buildings on the left) before the track levels out into mixed woodland consisting of beech, birch, hawthorn, and rowan with the surrounding landscape becoming more agricultural. The track makes for easy and enjoyable walking and, as it sweeps 90° round to the left, crosses an old bridge to develop into a farm road.

The road continues on to reach a waymarked sign where a track bears left towards the small rise of Craigangal. Continue down this track until it turns right. Walk along the flat farm track with Craigangal now to the left and views of Carlock Hill, Milgarva and Green Benan to the right. Just after a bend in the track, go through a wooden gate which in turn gives way to another wooden gate.

The track then descends past an old ruined cottage and at this point becomes boggier and rougher. Walk down the track towards the coast through lovely Currarie Glen with the attractive waters of the Shallochwreck Burn tumbling to the right of the track. Kintyre is directly ahead as the track continues to descend steeply to the beautiful cove of Currarie Port: a real hidden gem that is unreachable except on foot or by boat. This wild, rocky and windswept cove is a great example of the fantastic scenery on offer all along the Ayrshire coastline.

Toadstools in Currarie Glen

Once Currarie Port is reached, cross the beach to pick up a path that keeps to the right of the burn and then go through a gate. A stony and eroded path then climbs steeply, with a sharp drop to the right affording great views across Currarie Glen. The mixed woodland of the glen looks stunning during the autumn months.

At the top of the slope go through a metal gate then turn left to walk along an indistinct path that climbs steadily between bracken on the left and a fence to the right. A short climb leads to the top of the hill and to a waymarked sign at a gate pointing straight ahead. Go through the gate and walk along the path between a dyke and a fence. Take care as the path is very narrow here and the walking underfoot is quite rough. Upon reaching the end of the dyke cross it and bear right onto an open field from which a narrow path can be followed with steep cliffs to the left and a wall continuing to the right. This path leads towards the conspicuous profile of Downan Hill and is one of the finest sections of the entire route, with exemplary views extending across the Firth of Clyde to Arran as well as further along the Ayrshire Coast.

Walk northeast along the path, passing a waymarked post until a fence is reached. Follow the line of the fence downhill towards another waymarked signpost, then cross a small wooden bridge and keep walking downhill past a third waymarked post. A narrow, grassy path descends to a small, shallow burn and then climbs to an electric fence. Keep to the edge of the field and walk along the path, following the white-capped posts of the electric fence as it ascends and descends round a steep gully to a wooden gate. The path maintains its course as it climbs to a wooden gate and a waymarked signpost at the base of Downan Hill. Turn left here and follow a grassy track which heads away from Downan Hill towards the coast, with fine views of Ballantrae signifying that the first port of call is near.

Continue along the path as it follows the course of a dry stone dyke, reaching two wooden gates at either side of a farm track just to the north of Downanhill Cottage. Once through the gates turn left onto a farm road and walk along it, passing through the substantial Langdale Farm and the smaller Downan Farm. The path then turns northeast to pass Kinniegar Farm to reach the road end. Turn left onto another road and walk along it, passing through the hamlet of Garleffin before the road joins the A77. Turn left here onto the pavement running beside the A77 with views towards the ruin of Ardstinchar Castle on the edge of the village of Ballantrae.

Ardstinchar Castle was built by Hugh Kennedy of Ardstinchar, a commander of Scottish troops who fought with Joan of Arc against English forces at the famous Siege of Orléans (1428-1429), an extremely significant battle of the Hundred Years' War in which Joan of Arc first established her renown. Thanks to his military prowess, Hugh was subsequently chosen to escort King Charles VII of France on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. On his return the king bestowed upon him a knighthood and a substantial golden handshake that allowed him to purchase the land on which Ardstinchar Castle was built. It is said that Mary, Queen of Scots spent the night here in 1563.

The short walk along the pavement then crosses a bridge over the River Stinchar. This bridge was built in 1964 but the older bridge, dating from 1770, can be seen a few yards further upriver. The road passes Ardstinchar Castle and continues onto Ballantrae's Main Street, where the finish point of this route is reached at the small but perfectly formed Kennedy Mausoleum.

Ballantrae was formed as a burgh in the 16th century, following the building of the castle here by the Kennedy family in the middle of the 15th. It translates from the Gaelic Baile an Traighe as ‘the village on the shore’ and its peaceful setting provides splendid views of the surrounding landscape and coast; it is a lovely place to spend some time. For many years Ballantrae was a fishing port, with smuggling commonplace along the coastline. Robert Louis Stevenson used the name of the village in his 1889 novel The Master of Ballantrae.

The compact but charming Kennedy Mausoleum

THE KENNEDY MAUSOLEUM

The Kennedy Mausoleum lies in the heart of the village and was built in 1604 by Lady Bargany. Her husband Gilbert Kennedy (who was Laird of Bargany) was killed in 1601 by the 5th Earl of Cassillis, John Kennedy, in an infamous incident that has since become known as ‘The Maybole Snowballing’. Gilbert's funeral was apparently attended by over 1000 men on horseback and several dignitaries. He was subsequently buried at Ayr but when Lady Bargany died in 1605 both their bodies were taken to Ballantrae and laid to rest in the Kennedy Mausoleum. The graveyard also has some interesting gravestones, many of which commemorate those drowned at sea.

DAY 2

Ballantrae to Girvan

Start	Kennedy Mausoleum, Ballantrae NX 083 824
Finish	Girvan harbour NX 182 982
Distance	13 miles (21 km)
Time	5 hours
Terrain	Fairly flat using sandy and shingly beach, pavements, an old coach road and grass verge. However, there is one section that travels directly beside the busy A77 trunk road for a couple of miles where only a verge separates you from the road. Take great care here, especially if you are in a large group or with young children or dogs.
Maps	OS Landranger 76; OS Explorer 317 and 326
Refreshments	There is a shop and hotel in Ballantrae, a bistro at Lendalfoot and several shops, pubs and restaurants in Girvan.
Transport	Regular Stagecoach buses run between Girvan town centre and Ballantrae (See Appendix C). Girvan railway station (services including Ayr, Kilmarnock and Stranraer) is on Vicarton Street.

From Ballantrae the route heads down to the village's lovely harbour and onto a long stretch of sandy beach leading to Bennane Head (at one time the home of the notorious cannibal Sawney Bean). From here the path climbs directly beside the main A77 trunk road, which has to be crossed twice during the route so real care must be taken. The route descends into the quiet hamlet of Lendalfoot where a mixture of pavement and shore leads towards Kennedy's Pass and onto a superb old coach road that climbs high above the coast, providing magnificent views as well as being home to a variety of wildlife. It then drops back down to the coast and continues alongside the A77 into the busy town of Girvan using pavement, beach and promenade.

From the Kennedy Mausoleum turn left onto Main Street and then first left onto The Vennel. Walk along the pavement towards the shore, passing Ballantrae Parish Church, several houses and the primary school. On reaching a small car park the road sweeps round to the right and onto Foreland. Public toilets are available to the right of the car park.

Continue along Foreland on the pavement, passing Shore Road and Kintyre Avenue on your right until a small harbour is reached, where a waymarked sign points right to the slipway at the entrance of the harbour. Walk down the slipway and onto the sandy beach to continue north, heading away from Ballantrae Bay and towards Bennane Head. The beach provides good walking and the views towards Bennane Head, out to Ailsa Craig and back to Ballantrae are excellent.

As you approach two cottages at Bennane Lea turn right and walk towards a waymarked sign. At this point walk off the beach and onto a grassy track beside the cottages. Turn right to pass through a gate and cross an old road, then cross a cattle grid at another gate. Go through this gate to reach the very busy A77, which must be crossed. Take great care here as the traffic (including many trucks) moves along at the national speed limit of 60mph, making its way to and from the ferry ports at Cairnryan and Stranraer.

Ballantrae's fine, sandy beach leads all the way to Bennane Head

Once safely across turn left and climb steeply alongside the A77, walking on the grass verge between the metal barrier and the fence. This section of path travels beside the road for approximately one mile and although there are several feet between you and the traffic real care must be taken, particularly if there is a large group, children or pets on the walk. As you gain height alongside the road the views back towards Ballantrae are superb. About halfway up the hill the metal barrier stops so take extra care here. Once at the top of the hill the houses of Bennane Lodge and Meikle Bennane are passed on the left, then as the A77 begins to descend the verge crosses a singletrack farm road (which leads to Little Bennane) and reaches a waymarked sign. Carefully cross the A77 here back onto the western side of the road.

Near Bennane Head is a cave that runs to a depth of nearly 200m. Local legend states that this was the home of the infamous Alexander ‘Sawney’ Bean (spelt erroneously on the OS map as Sawny). He was the head of a Scottish family of cannibals who reputedly murdered over 1000 men, women and children in the 15th or 16th century. The clan managed to keep their whereabouts secret for 25 years thanks to the cave being blocked by water at high tide, keeping its murderous inhabitants and the remains of their victims hidden from passers-by. It was only by chance that Sawney Bean and his band of outlaws were finally caught, when they ambushed a man and wife returning from a local fair. The husband put up a furious struggle with his sword and pistol, managing to escape (sadly his wife became the Bean family's final victim) and tell the magistrates at Glasgow. When King James VI was informed, he and an army of 400 men tracked the Beans down to their cave at Bennane Head. Following their capture, Sawney Bean and his clan were all executed without trial in Edinburgh.

Looking back towards Ballantrae at dawn from Bennane Head

Continue along the path as it descends alongside the A77 by way of a grass verge, which runs between a fence on the left and a metal barrier on the right that separates the path from the main road. The fence is there to protect against getting too close to the edge of the verge, as steep slopes fall away to the coast. The path here can be quite tight at times but the terrain is good for walking. Cross the entrance and exit of a small car park, then as you round a corner you are treated to superb views down to Lendalfoot, towards Pinbain Hill and further north to Turnberry. Continue walking down the path to pass a waymarked sign and the entrance to Balsalloch Farm and North Ballaird, before the route drops down to the coast and passes Bennane Shore Holiday Park. The metal barrier has to be crossed then re-crossed here as the verge travels over a burn.

The superb views along the coast to Balsalloch Hill and Pinbain Hill from above Lendalfoot

Continue along the verge past the Bistro @ Pebbles Spa, then cross the entrance of the spa onto a pavement. As you continue along the pavement the temptation is to head down onto the beach but it is very rocky and not ideal for walking along so it is best to stay above the shore. Great boulders can be seen sitting on the beach, while there are also very attractive cottages on view on the outskirts of Lendalfoot. These small, quaint and wooden dwellings are quite idiosyncratic. As you approach Lendalfoot these views enhance the pleasant walking along the pavement. Bear left away from the A77 at a lay-by and follow the road round to the Varyag Memorial.

The Varyag was an iconic Russian warship that was badly damaged and suffered many casualties in the 1904 Battle of Chemulpo Bay during Russia's war with Japan. A mismatched battle heavily in favour of the Japanese resulted in extensive damage and the ship became immobile as a result. In 1905 she was salvaged by the Japanese and, renamed Soya, became part of their navy. During World War I, however, Japan became an ally and many ships were returned to Russia, including the Varyag in 1916. She was brought to Britain under her reclaimed Russian name in the following year for repairs but, because of civil war in Russia, they never took place. The ship was eventually sold as scrap to Germany in 1920 but, ironically, sank during a storm when being tugged across the Firth of Clyde. The Varyag went down only 450m off the coast at Lendalfoot.

When you leave the memorial continue along the road and back onto the pavement beside the A77. Head down onto the beach at this point where there is good solid walking by Lendalfoot. Once away from the village, however, make your way back up onto the pavement and onto a grass verge, as the beach becomes very rocky. Continue along the verge to pass the small, unobtrusive grave of one Archibald Hamilton and crew. The gravestone reads:

The Memory of Archibald Hamilton and crew, Natives of Kings Cross, Arran who were drowned near this place September 11th 1711.

Climbing the old coach road away from Lendalfoot above Kennedy's Pass

Once away from the grave the verge becomes very narrow, so head back onto the beach. Continue over some boulders and onto a shingly beach that provides good walking with plentiful surrounding wildlife. As you walk along the beach you pass a sign to the right at the edge of the main road that informs road users that walkers cross the A77 after another 300 yards. At this point head back up to the road and onto the pavement, which then ends at a grass verge. Walk along the verge to reach a waymarked sign just before a bend in the road at Slockenray. Cross very carefully over to the eastern side of the road to reach a wooden gate. Go through the gate and climb a good path up a very steep slope away from Slockenray and onto an old 18th-century coach road. This steep-sided gorge is initially quite impressive but after the gravel path climbs steeply round a hairpin bend the gradient eases slightly. The pass runs high above the coast and gives fantastic views back to Bennane Head and Lendalfoot, as well as north along the coast and towards Arran.

Go through a wooden gate and follow a good track, climbing gradually towards the lower slopes of Pinbain Hill. The walking is excellent and very peaceful here, with a wide variety of surrounding wildlife including buzzards and kestrels. As the track levels out at the base of the hill, go through another wooden gate. Continue on the track, traversing the hill's lower slopes. The hill climbs steeply to your right with sheep grazing on the open moorland.