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The delight of Chinese food is that you don’t have to measure it precisely. Since the essence of Chinese food is sharing, one dish of noodles in this book, for example, will be served between four and six people. So, to enjoy a really good Chinese lunch or dinner party using these recipes – which I have selected because I love them – make two, three or four different dishes and share them with your friends.

In Chinese cooking you just cannot say, for example, that one 1.35 kg/3 lb chicken roasted will serve four people. Because the Chinese, whether they are mixing fish, vegetables or meat with either noodles or rice, will stretch it to suit the occasion. After all, most Chinese cooks don’t weigh, measure or time – they are intuitive and instinctive cooks, they don’t buy cookery books, they don’t watch television cookery programmes and they will never, ever have heard of Ready Steady Cook, Hell’s Kitchen or anything else of that ilk.

Floyd’s China

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