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Sauces, pastes and dips


White onions.


Fresh root ginger.


Pet-Palo-Huahaheng Duck Restaurant.

The Thai people like their food hot and some of the world’s hottest chilli peppers are grown in Thailand. So, as you would expect, chillies play an important part in their curry sauces, pastes and dipping sauces.

These sauces and pastes are an indispensable part of Thai cooking, and home-made ones are well worth the effort. Many of the pastes can also be used as marinades, dipping sauces or to flavour a simply cooked bowl of rice or noodles. Chilli sauces are also used in salads.

Regional varieties are found throughout Thailand, but the basic curry pastes combine dry spices and fresh herbs with ginger, garlic, chillies and citrus juice and leaves.

Dipping sauces provide a contrast to the food they’re serve with – cooling dips for hot and spicy dishes, or fiery dips to accompany less highly flavoured food.


Khun Phol Tantasathien, owner of the Spring Restaurant, was great company.

Curry powder

1 tablespoon cloves

3 tablespoons coriander seeds

3 tablespoons cumin seeds

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

3 tablespoons dried chilli flakes

3 tablespoons turmeric powder

2 tablespoons ground ginger

2 teaspoons white peppercorns

4 cardamom pods

1 Heat a wok or heavy-based frying pan and, without adding any oil, dry-roast the cloves, coriander, cumin and fennel seeds for 40–50 seconds until they release their fragrance, then grind to a powder in a spice grinder.

2 Add the remaining ingredients to the ground spices in the grinder and whiz to a powder. Store in an airtight jar.


Appreciating the shade at the Damnoen-Saduak floating market.


Dry-frying my spices for a curry paste, in the kitchens of the Intercontinental Hotel.


Ingredients for the Thai red curry paste.

The sauces and pastes below are used in recipes throughout the book. The dips, starting on page 51, will all go with kebabs, prawns and finger foods.

Thai green curry paste

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

6 fresh green chillies, chopped a handful of finely chopped fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon chopped fresh lemon grass

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander root or coriander leaves and stalks

2 red shallots, peeled and chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

1 cm/1/2 inch piece galangal (Thai ginger) or fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped

4 or 5 kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped, or zest of 1 lime

6 black peppercorns

1 teaspoon shrimp paste

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 Heat a wok or heavy-based frying pan and, without adding any oil, dry-roast the cumin and coriander seeds for 40–50 seconds until they are toasted and aromatic. Tip into a spice grinder and grind to a powder.

2 Put the powder in a food processor with all the other ingredients and whiz to a fine paste (add a little water if the mixture is too stiff). Store in a jar in the fridge for 3–5 days.

Thai red curry paste

7 long, dried red chillies, deseeded

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

11/2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1/4 nutmeg, ground

2 tablespoons finely sliced fresh lemon grass

2 tablespoons finely chopped red shallots

1 tablespoon finely chopped roasted red shallots

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

zest of 2 limes, finely chopped

10 white peppercorns

a large pinch of salt

1/2 teaspoon shrimp paste

5 cloves

1 Soak the chillies in hot water for about 15 minutes, then drain.

2 Heat a wok or heavy-based frying pan and, without adding any oil, dry-roast the cumin and coriander seeds and the nutmeg for 40–50 seconds until they release their aroma. Tip into a spice grinder and grind to a powder.

3 Put the powder in a food processor with all the other ingredients and whiz to a paste (add a little water if the mixture is too stiff). Store in a jar in the fridge for 3–5 days.

Thai yellow curry paste

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

6 fresh red chillies, chopped

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1 fresh lemon grass stalk, chopped

2 red shallots, peeled and finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

2 tablespoons turmeric powder

1 teaspoon shrimp paste

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 Heat a wok or heavy-based frying pan and, without adding any oil, dry-roast the cumin and coriander seeds for 40–50 seconds until they are toasted and aromatic. Tip into a spice grinder and grind to a powder.

2 Put the powder in a food processor with all the other ingredients and whiz to a fine paste (add a little water if the mixture is too stiff). Store in a jar in the fridge for 3–5 days.

Thai massaman curry paste

This comes from southern Thailand.

3–4 dried red chillies

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1/2 cinnamon stick, crushed

2–3 cloves

6 cardamom pods, crushed

5 black peppercorns

2 red shallots, peeled and finely chopped

1 fresh lemon grass stalk, finely chopped

3–4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 cm/1/2 inch piece galangal (Thai ginger) or fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1 teaspoon shrimp paste

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 Soak the chillies in hot water for about 15 minutes, then drain.

2 Heat a wok or heavy-based frying pan and, without adding any oil, dry-roast the cumin and coriander seeds, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom pods and peppercorns for 40–50 seconds. Tip into a spice grinder and grind to a powder.

3 Put the powder in a food processor with all the other ingredients, including the chillies, and whiz to a fine paste (add a little water if the mixture is too stiff). Store in a jar in the fridge for 3–5 days.

Hanglay curry paste

This comes from northern Thailand.

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

5 dried red chillies, crushed

2 fresh lemon grass stalks, finely chopped

4 red shallots, peeled and finely chopped

2.5 cm/1 inch piece fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped

2 tablespoons Demerara or palm sugar

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 tablespoon shrimp paste

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp mixed with a little water (remember to remove the stones)

1 Heat a wok or heavy-based frying pan and, without adding any oil, dry-roast the coriander and cumin seeds for 40–50 seconds until toasted and aromatic. Tip into a spice grinder and grind to a powder.

2 Put the powder in a food processor with all the other ingredients and whiz to a fine paste (add a little water if the mixture is too stiff). Store in a jar in the fridge for 3–5 days.

Penang curry paste

This is one of many Malay influences to be found in Thailand.

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

15 dried red chillies, deseeded

3–4 red shallots, peeled and finely chopped

5 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 fresh lemon grass stalk, finely chopped

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander root or coriander leaves and stalks

2.5 cm/1 inch piece galangal (Thai ginger), finely chopped

2 tablespoons unsalted roasted peanuts, chopped

1 tablespoon shrimp paste

1 Heat a wok or heavy-based frying pan and, without adding any oil, dry-roast the coriander seeds for 40–50 seconds until toasted and aromatic.

2 Put the coriander seeds in a food processor with all the other ingredients and whiz to a thick paste (add a little water if the mixture is too stiff). Store in a jar in the fridge for 3–5 days.

Chiang Mai curry paste

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

2 red shallots, peeled and finely chopped

5 cm/2 inch piece fresh root ginger, peeled and grated

2 large, fresh red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped

1 fresh lemon grass stalk, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

1 teaspoon shrimp paste

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