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HOW TO SCORE GREAT PLANTS FOR LESS…OR FOR FREE!
Welcome to the Academy of Shrewd Plant Hunters! Perhaps you’re enrolling as a wide-eyed, non-discriminating garden nymph – happy with whatever plant randomly lands in your shopping cart for whatever the price. Or maybe you consider yourself pretty savvy at mining “plant gems” from a quarry of flowering plants. My job as your tutor is to build you into a sophisticated plant geek able to track down elusive deals while getting the highest quality for your money. My mission is to equip you with superior plant scouting skills for capturing the healthiest, best-priced plants and eliminating costly poor decisions. The end goal: heavenly-looking, budget-wise gardens that do not create hell on earth.
The Academy’s first course focuses on evaluating contenders for a place in your garden. No more spontaneously reaching for the container with the biggest or most flowers at the garden center. You’re going to have cutting-edge assessment tools and precision timing to seize exceptional plants for less. Your untrained eye will develop radar vision. You will quickly identify poorly rooted specimens, pots that have been inconsistently watered and plants on the verge of an insect or fungal outbreak. Your scouting skills will identify prized containers that hold two, three or four closely spaced plants to create an impressive display. Or a hefty two- or three-year-old plant in a one-gallon pot, that will shortly be transplanted to a larger container by nursery staff and priced for twice as much. You will also learn how to “hold your fire” until the sale or clearance price appears. Exciting, heart-pounding stuff!
The following sharp-shooting, purchasing tips are not only about keeping more money in your wallet, you will also receive insightful briefings on how to avoid costly mistakes, such as buying plants with inferior genetics or placing the wrong plant in the wrong spot for the wrong reasons.
As a sophisticated plant geek you will be able to successfully maneuver many different terrains and situations – i.e., garden centers, mail-order catalogs, garage sales, friends bearing plants from their gardens – making informed, money-saving, smarter decisions that will result in luxurious gardens and landscapes.
For practical purposes, I have listed my shopping tips by the following popular plant groups: perennials, biennials, ornamental grasses, bulbs, annuals and flowering shrubs. You’ll notice that I left out vegetables, herbs, conifers and trees. That’s because my time-tested, tactical training is primarily with ornamentals. However, I do give brief mention to conifers and trees for container planting, in Chapter 4.
But first, before I start pulling designer trade secrets out of my magic garden hat, I want to emphasize that planet-friendly, sustainable gardening practices are of paramount importance. We’re making changes to our little piece of the earth. For some gardeners, the biggest challenge to creating a garden of their dreams is to put themselves second and ask: How will it benefit pollinators? Conserve precious water? Keep poisons from entering the ecosystem? And the wonderful news is we can have breathtaking gardens and be good stewards of the planet, by making wise plant choices.
Having said this, it would be a glaring omission for me not to mention neonicotinoids (aka neonics), especially when these are applied to perennials that are nectar and pollen sources for precious pollinators. As you may know, a neonicotinoid is a systemic insecticide that is applied to plants to kill many insects, especially sap-feeding ones like aphids. This poison can also be present in nectar and pollen.
Globe Thistle (Echinops) is a bee buffet!
This is not the platform to get into a long dialog about why I believe these insecticides are dangerous. There is plenty of easily accessible information for you to make your own decision. Rather, for those of you who believe as I do (or you are not sure what you believe), I want to provide a few resources for locating growers, garden centers and mail-order companies that do not use neonicotinoids on their plants.
Neonicotinoid Information Sources
Bee Better. Bee Better’s mission is to educate homeowners, community leaders and developers about the importance of sustainable, organic and water-wise garden design, with a focus on native plants for resident and migrating birds, bees and butterflies. The site includes lists of neonicotinoid-free growers, as well as growers that still use neonicotinoids. beebetter.info/
Beyond Pesticides. Features a comprehensive directory of companies and organizations that sell organic seeds and plants to the general public (seeds that have not been coated with bee-harming neonicotinoid pesticides or drenched with them). (beyondpesticides.org/programs/bee-protective-pollinators-and-pesticides/what-can-you-do/pollinator-friendly-seed-directory)
Friends of the Earth. Friends of the Earth works to eliminate pollinator-toxic pesticides like neonicotinoids and glyphosate. They are proponents of organic farming systems that are healthier for bees, butterflies, people and the planet. (foe.org/beeaction/retailers)
North Coast Gardening. Gardening in the Pacific Northwest. This entertaining site offers a wealth of information about plants, garden maintenance, design concepts and gardening tools. It also includes a list of neonic-free growers, seed companies and nurseries (wholesale and retail). (northcoastgardening.com/2015/02/nurseries-neonicotinoid/)
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Now, let’s dive into the world of perennials to begin mastering the art of great deals plus smarter plant choices – for maximum color with less work.
PERENNIALS
Perennials by definition are plants that should survive three or more years in their designated hardiness and heat zones. Did you notice that should is italicized? That is your first lesson.
There are many factors that can impact a perennial’s life expectancy, including a gardener’s poor decision making. For example, placing a perennial in too little or too much sun; or planting it too deeply so that soil covers the lower stems; or using a post hole digger to open up a teeny-weeny space in compacted soil, jamming the plant in and expecting it to thrive. If you had trouble working the soil, how do you think those fine little root hairs are going to do?
Self-delusional dreams are also a source of a plant’s early demise: “Who cares what the plant tag says concerning sunlight requirements, I want that perennial THERE!” Some folks will go to great lengths for reaffirmation. They’ll google dozens of sites until they finally find one that tells them what they want to hear. And zone denial is a killer. Maybe, just maybe, that big ole banana tree will overwinter here in my Maine garden. Dream on! I know. I’ve done all of the above.
Eye-Spy…
■ Watch for “recycled” perennials overwintered from the prior year and returned to spring inventory. Although these plants do not look like the fresh material coming from delivery trucks or production greenhouses, it’s what’s in the soil that matters. Older plants with more developed root systems will ultimately provide double the plant mass compared to first-year plants in quart or gallon pots.
■ Do some quick math in your head (or on your iPhone) to see if it is cheaper in the long run to buy a larger container and then divide it into pieces, versus buying smaller pots priced for less. But a word of warning as you scout the field. There are some perennials that resent being divided (read as stress out and possibly die) or have physical root structures that cannot be divided. These include Oriental poppy, baby’s breath (Gypsophila paniculata), perennial flax (Linum), balloon flower (Platycodon), lupine, Malva, gas plant (Dictamnus), Crambe, butterfly weed (Asclepias) and false lupine (Thermopsis caroliniana).
■ Think spring. Spring is when some growers will plant multiple small perennial plugs in a one-gallon or larger pot so that it fills in quickly and encourages quick sales. I’m always on the lookout for these remarkable deals. Buy, disassemble and count your booty!
■ Don’t be duped. Investigate when you see a little plant sitting in the center of a large pot. It may be that the plant was recently transplanted from a smaller container. I’m fine with paying more as long as the perennial is rooted in well. But if it was just transplanted, why pay extra just because of the pot size? If I need more potting soil, I’ll buy it! Sometimes you can tell if a plant has been recently transplanted by giving it a GENTLE tug. If it shifts easily in the potting soil, or pops out, you have your answer. Please be kind and leave the plant as you found it (press it back into place). If I really want that particular perennial, I’ll go check to see if smaller pots are still available. If not, then why not purchase it later in the season when it’s a heftier specimen. I would rather have nursery staff take care of it until it reaches a good size. Then I will whisk it off the shelf, and maybe even divide it into several pieces.
■ Don’t be dirt cheap! If you want to be astonished by the health and growth rate of your perennials, then invest in healthy soil. There is an age-old worthy saying: Don’t plant a $5 plant in a $1 hole, instead plant a $1 plant in a $5 dollar hole. Pouring a little love into your soil can transform a springplanted, 4-inch potted perennial into a hefty gallon-sized specimen later that same season!
■ Nurture healthy soil. Healthy soil fosters plants that:
• have more expansive, well-developed roots
• are more drought-tolerant and less stressed by swings in soil temperature
• support lusher top growth (foliage, flowers, fruits)
• are more resistant to disease and insect damage
• are less prone to winterkill
Enrich soil by incorporating organic material into new garden beds or topdressing existing gardens with two or three inches of nutrient-rich matter. Amendments include aged compost, manure, leaf mold and mushroom compost. Check with your regional extension office for locally sourced materials. A complete soil test that includes a nutrient analysis, soil pH and percentage of organic matter is usually around $25, money well spent!
■ Go for Godzillas. Save money and planting time by purchasing “Godzilla-size” family members. A super-sized perennial can fill a space that would require multiple smaller-scaled siblings. Here are some ideas:
| Average-size | Godzilla-size |
| Japanese Painted Fern ‘Pictum’ | Japanese Painted Fern ‘Godzilla’ |
| Ligularia ‘Desdemona’ | Ligularia ‘King Kong’ |
| Siberian Bugloss ‘Jack Frost’ | Siberian Bugloss ‘Alexander’s Great’ |
| Black-eyed Susan ‘Goldsturm’ | Black-eyed Susan maxima |
| Hosta ‘Ginko Craig’ | Hosta ‘Empress Wu’ |
| Little Blue Stem ‘Smoke Signal’ | Big Blue Stem ‘Indian Warrior’ |
| Coral Bell ‘Peach Flambe’ | Coral Bell ‘Southern Comfort’ |
| Heucherella ‘Sunspot’ | Heucherella ‘Galactica’ |
Clearance Tables
Clearance tables are a no-brainer for scouting deals. But like milk in a food market, these bargains are typically located at the back of the store. Usually the first perennials to show up in clearance are spring bloomers that are past bloom. What a goldmine! These perennials are relatively fresh – they have not gone through months of stressful living in stuffy pots. The only reason they were relegated to the sale table was because they’re flowerless, and garden centers know that most costumers buy plants in bloom. Delaying your purchase saves you 25%, 50% or 75% off the original price! Ephemerals (early spring-blooming perennials that go dormant after flowering) are often quickly marked down, before their foliage starts to look ratty and disappears. But don’t be fooled by the shabbiness. Plant them in your garden, mark the location, and they will rise and shine next spring to greet you and early pollinators.
As the season progresses, other perennials will be marked at clearance prices. Again, this is usually because the plant is no longer in bloom. But it may also be that freshly blooming inventory is arriving and space needs to be created. This is good news for shrewd plant hunters!
Given that most plants on clearance racks are not in bloom, and plants tags either don’t show a good image or are extremely faded, it can be difficult to decide whether to swoop or skip. That’s where my friend Allan Armitage’s new app “Armitage’s Greatest Garden Plants” comes to the rescue. It has hundreds of plant images and descriptions so you can quickly type in a plant’s name and bingo, you have a great photo and helpful growing information.
The “Garden Answers Plant Identification” app is another option. Dave’s Garden website also has a plant identification resource: Mystery Plant & Tree ID Forum (davesgarden.com/community/forums/f/plantid/all/).
But be aware… I only have a few red flags to wave when it comes to purchasing clearance plants. Of course plants must be healthy. They can’t have bugs or disease issues. The potting soil should not be soggy and the plant’s crown (where the stems enter the potting medium) shouldn’t look dark brown or rotting. There shouldn’t be a space between the soil and the pot’s edge. This can be caused by inconsistent watering, leading to root stress.
Finally, perennials that have been sitting in their pots for months may have started twirling their “fingers” (I mean roots) in boredom. One sign of a root bound perennial is roots growing through the bottom of the container. Another telltale is when you attempt to slip it out of the pot to plant it in your garden, it doesn’t budge an inch. The roots are crammed in the pot. You may have to gently tap on the pot’s bottom. If that doesn’t work, try banging on it. No? Then put the pot on its side on the ground and step on it, rolling slightly. This adjustment usually does the trick. Sometimes, if I am having a bad day, I’ll throw the container to the ground and then step on it. If all of this seems too harsh, then use scissors, a pruning knife or bypass pruners to cut the container open.
The next step is to break apart the dense root mass. If you transplant the perennial as is, you will likely see a dead plant the next season or one that shows little or no growth. Why? Because the roots are coiling around and into themselves. There is no fresh soil with nutrients, water and oxygen to encourage growth. Use a butcher knife, pruning saw or bypass pruner to cut an X into the base. Gently pry the X open to encourage fresh soil to enter this space. Also, rough up the sides of the root ball to loosen and redirect roots into fresh soil. Then place the revitalized plant into fresh soil and water well.
Perennials and shrubs can become root bound when left too long in a pot. Help direct congested roots into fresh soil by slicing an X in the bottom of the root ball and roughing up the sides, freeing roots to seek fresh soil and nutrients.
■ Should you buy a cultivated variety? If a perennial is borderline hardy in your area and you’re a risk taker, improve the odds of it surviving by buying the species versus a cultivated variety. Many times the species are hardier due to less meddling with genetics. What do I mean? For example, Echinacea purpurea, commonly called purple coneflower, is a wonderful native perennial to North America. Simply stated, Echinacea is the genus name. The next word, usually lower case and italicized, is the species. And if it is a cultivated variety, or cultivar, then the next word(s) will be capitalized and in single quotations. So Echinacea purpurea is a species of coneflower, hardy in Zones 3–9. Echinacea purpurea ‘Hot Lava’ is a cultivar, hardy in Zones 5–9. And another tip for increasing the odds of borderline perennials? I’ve found some white flowering cultivars to be finickier than other colors.
Native Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) ‘Hot Lava’
Nativars
This is a good time to bring up nativars. These are cultivated varieties of a native plant. Thankfully, native plant sales are booming, given the heightened interest of incorporating natives, not only to benefit pollinators but also for their less demanding nature. This new interest, along with increased revenue opportunities for those in the industry, has propelled intense breeding within native families to introduce flowers with new colors, sizes, shapes and abundance. And although these nativars may be more striking to consumers, research indicates that many nativars are less attractive, or beneficial, to pollinators. Research is showing that the more a native plant has been “hybridized,” i.e., looks different in flower shape or color, the less beneficial it is to pollinators. Annie S. White, at the University of Vermont, under the tutelage of my friend Dr. Leonard Perry, has been doing extensive field research on natives versus nativars. To learn more about her ongoing work, visit pollinatorgardens.org.
Annie White, conducting research on natives and nativars while a PhD student in Plant & Soil Sciences at the University of Vermont
■ Pay more, get more? Sometimes it is wise to pay more money for a larger perennial. There are some perennials that grow very slowly and will not bloom until they reach a certain size and maturity. So while I could save money and buy Dictamnus* in a 4-inch square as a first year specimen, it will most likely take four or five years before flowering. If you are a type-A personality like me, or you’re getting up there in years (who isn’t?), it just makes sense to spend a few more dollars on an older plant with immediate returns. A few other “tortoise-paced” growing perennials include peony and Baptisia.
*Dictamnus is commonly called gas plant because it emits fumes from the flowers that are flammable. Both the foliage and flowers smell like lemon. Please note that resin and oil from the leaves may cause severe rashes, welts and even oozing blisters. I have not had this reaction, but proceed with caution, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Gas Plant (Dictamnus albus) ‘Purpureus’
■ Buy shortlived perennials in 4-inch pots. Or start them from seed. Why invest money in a large container when the plant will likely fizzle away in three years (maybe less)? Thankfully, most shortlived perennials bloom in their first year. Some attractive “fly-by-nights” include flax (Linum), mullein (Verbascum), Malva ‘Zebrina’, dwarf Delphinium (Delphinium grandiflorum and chinensis), blackberry lily (Belamacanda), Iceland poppy (Papaver nudicaule), columbine (Aquilegia) and English Daisy (Bellis perennis). Another dead giveaway that you’re looking at a short-lived perennial is when the plant tag states “allow some to reseed to enjoy more the next season.”
Iceland Poppy (Papaver nudicaule)
Malva ‘Zabrina’
■ Buy fast-growing perennials in small containers. Give these fast growers an inch and they will take a mile – or close to it! Some “fleet of root” include bee balm (Monarda), gooseneck (Lysimachia clethroides), obedient plant (Physostegia, and don’t be fooled by the cultivar ‘Miss Manners’), threadleaf tickseed ‘Zagreb’ and ‘Golden Showers’ (Coreopsis), ladybells (Adenorpha) and spotted bellflower ‘Cherry Bells’ (Campanula punctata). Which leads to the question, where are you thinking of planting these? I’m not suggesting that they’re bad plants, you just need to be realistic about their intentions. If you think they will politely stay where planted, dream on! Which reminds me, Coreopsis rosea ‘Dream On’ is also aggressive. Fast-spreading perennials usually need yearly “editing” (thinning). Better to plant them where they can run wild and frolic with others of their kind – as a ground cover or in a meadow or wildflower garden.
Spotted Bellflower (Campanula punctata) ‘Cherry Bells’
Bare Root Plants
Save a wheelbarrow of money by buying daylilies, Hosta and peonies as bare root plants (other perennials are also available). Bare roots cost less to ship than container plants – plus, frequently they have more mature root systems. If you have never planted a bare root perennial, you might feel awkward at first. The “dead looking” root can be unnerving. First, place “sleeping beauty” in some tepid water and allow it to soak for at least thirty minutes to an hour. Then place the hydrated root in a container of potting soil or plant directly in the landscape if the temperature is consistently above freezing.
A bare root of perennial Russian Sage (Perovskia) being potted up.
If you are confused about which end goes up, look closely for stem remnants indicating where the plant was cut back after being harvested the year before. The stem end goes up. Place the bare root in the hole so the crown (where the stem meets the roots) is even with the soil surface. Hold the plant in place with one hand and push soil around the roots with the other, filling the hole. Then water in gently so as not to wash soil away from roots. If you still can’t make heads or tails of which end goes up, plant the root on its side and it will solve the problem for you.
After eight weeks the bare root has grown into a gorgeous specimen!
■ Steer clear of perennials that show signs of insect or disease problems, no matter how tempting to put them in your cart. Save your Clara Barton skills for your spouse, children, pets or friends. Bringing a sick plant home to the garden is only inviting trouble to spread.
■ Scrutinize variegated perennials for signs of leaves reverting to solid green. You really can’t blame a plant for trying to shed its variegation. Less chlorophyll (green pigment) in leaves makes a plant less efficient at photosynthesis, needed for food production. Some variegated perennials that have a tendancy to revert include Sedum, Phlox, Arabis and Heliopsis.
This variegated Sedum at a garden center is already showing signs of reverting to a solid green.
■ What to do with a lovable “thug”: If you must have a perennial that is considered a thug (a plant that spreads rapidly, invading its neighbors or even your home!) then there are a few options: 1) you can create a meadow garden where it can range freely (assuming it is NOT on the invasive list, check with your regional extension office); 2) “imprison” it in a large container (with the bottom cut off) sunk into the ground. Make sure the container’s sides are at least 6–8 inches long. Or, 3) check if there is a variegated, chartreuse or blue-leaved cultivar in the same family and buy that. As mentioned above, because the leaves contain less chlorophyll, the plant will be less vigorous.
This patch of gold Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis) ‘Fernwood’s Golden Slippers’ is surrounded by the more aggressive, green-leaved variety.
Shopping for Hosta? 5 Things to Know
Hosta ‘Brother Stefan’ has deeply puckered leaves. It was the American Hosta Growers Association’s 2017 Hosta of the Year.
1. Variegated Hosta do not usually develop their mature coloration until three years or older. So the leaf of a first-year Hosta may look very unlike the picture on the plant tag.
2. Solid blue or blue-variegated cultivars may develop green leaves if they’ve been in too much sun or their leaves have been consistently drenched by overhead watering. The “blue” is actually a wax that can fade away under these conditions. If this happens, don’t fret – the blue will return the next season.
3. If you see a variegated Hosta with some solid green leaves at its perimeter, choose another plant. It is trying to revert.
4. If you’re on the hunt for fragrant flowering Hosta, don’t assume the word fragrant on a plant tag means highly scented. It is best to do your own nose test. Most fragrant flowering Hosta bloom in mid- to late summer with flowers that are white or soft lavender.
5. To reduce slug and snail damage, look for Hosta with lots of “quilting” or “puckering” in their leaves. Blue-leaved Hosta are also good choices.
Hosta ‘Royal Standard’ has shimmering white flowers that are prized for their rich fragrance, especially in the evening.
Thyme thrives along this hot, stony outcrop at Coastal Maine Botanical Garden in Booth Bay, Maine.
■ Looking for drought-tolerant, xeric plants? Drought-tolerant, xeric plants are in high demand. When shopping for these, select containers with medium to dry potting soil, NOT soggy soil, which can set back or kill a plant. Inexperienced nursery staff can sometimes overwater xeric perennials, especially when these are mixed in with other inventory. Some xeric perennials include Sedum, hens and chicks (Sempervivum), most silver-foliaged plants, ice plant (Delosperma) and Thyme.
■ Save money by buying perennials sold as annuals. Perennials often used in container designs are commonly available in 4-inch pots in the annual inventory. Check for dead nettle (Lamium), creeping Sedum, coral bells (Heuchera), dwarf ornamental grasses, rush (Juncus), creeping yellow Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’) and hens and chicks (Sempervivum). There may be other great perennial buys as well. Just remember to keep your hardiness zone in mind as you scan the possible options.
Enjoy Constant Color with Early, Mid- and Late-Blooming Varieties
You can squeeze longer color from a perennial family (genus) by using early, mid- and late-blooming varieties. As one perennial cultivar finishes blooming, the next family member sweeps into action. By the time the latest bloomer crosses the finish line, you may have enjoyed eight or more weeks of constant color! Here are a few perennials that offer early, mid-and late blooming varieties:
| ALLIUM | ||
| Early: ‘Purple Sensation’ | Mid: ‘Millenial’ | Late: ‘Medusa’ |
| ASTILBE | ||
| Early: ‘Fanal’ | Mid: ‘Bressingham Beauty’ | Late: chinensis ‘Pumila’ |
| DAYLILY | ||
| Early: ‘Apricot Sparkles’ | Mid: ‘Barbara Mitchell’ | Late: ‘El Desperado’ |
| IRIS | ||
| Early: Dwarf Crested Iris | Mid: Intermediate Tall Beareded Iris ‘Maui Moonlight’ | Late: Louisiana Iris ‘Black Gamecock’ Iris |
Two Other Perennial Families that Go the Distance:
| PEONY: | PHLOX: | ||
| Early: | Fernleaf Peony tenuifolia ‘Early Scout’ | Early: | Phlox divaricata ‘Louisiana Blue’ |
| Mid: | Peony Itoh ‘Julia Rose’ | Mid: | ‘Fashionable Early Flamingo’ |
| Late: | Peony lactiflora ‘Esla Sass’ | Late: | ‘Robert Poore’ |
‘Snowcap’ covers its tiny frame with masses of flowers.
■ Shasta daisies from June to October. Sparkling white shasta daisies (Leucanthemum) brighten landscapes and are also great cut flowers. Unfortunately, most only bloom for four or five weeks, even with deadheading. My solution: Dish out 15 weeks or more of “shasta daisies” by using a combination of four different plants. Start with early blooming shastas like ‘Snowcap’ or ‘Snow Lady’ that start blooming around mid-June. When these start to sputter out, shasta ‘Becky’ takes the bloom baton and flowers into mid-August. Overlapping with ‘Becky’ is white coneflower ‘Fragrant Angel’ (Echinacea) that powers on for a few more weeks. The final athlete in the race is a chrysanthemum ‘Daisy White’ that crosses the finish line in late fall.
■ What about coneflowers and coral bells? I feel compelled to address these two highly popular perennials that elicit mixed reactions from home gardeners as well as green industry professionals. Many people (including me) believe there has been an excessive number of cultivars released in both genera, resulting in inferior or duplicated plants. So here’s the scoop.
‘Becky’ has extra-stiff, 30″–36″ stems that are smothered in large flowers, week after week.
Coneflower (Echinacea)
Coneflower pallida
Coneflower paradoxa
Coneflower ‘Cheyenne Spirit’
There are noteworthy coneflowers and there are those that never should have been released to the market. I can’t count the number of times I’ve talked myself into paying a small fortune for a dazzling new coneflower that totally disappeared the next year. I guess that’s better than making a rude gesture (a single dead stalk sticking in the air). So what’s the deal? Well, for starters, it is usually safer to plant a “straight” species coneflower such as purpurea, tennesseensis, pallida and paradoxa. The challenge is it’s harder to find these, with nurseries filling garden shelves with the newest hybridized fandangos. Thankfully, many garden centers now have dedicated sections for natives. This is where you will typically find these coneflowers.
I’m not suggesting all new cultivars are destined for the compost pile. There are some that are highly praised by green industry professionals for their longevity, strong branching habit and good repeat bloom. A few winners from plant trials include ‘Cheyenne Spirit’, ‘Pica Bella’, ‘Fatal Attraction’ and ‘Leilani’. I highly recommend that you check out trial evaluations conducted in your own region. Coneflowers that do great in the Rockies may perform differently than those in the mid-Atlantic. Three trial evaluation sites to check are Colorado State University (https://source.colostate.edu/?s=plant+trial+gardens); Chicago Botanic Gardens (chicagobotanic.org/research/ornamental_plant_research) and Mt. Cuba Center (mtcubacenter.org/research). Mt. Cuba, a botanical garden dedicated to native plants in Northern Delaware, did a study of 48 different coneflowers in 2007-2008 (this is published on their website) and will be launching a new trial in 2018.
A few final remarks about coneflowers – which I do love, really! To thrive, they need full sun and well-drained soil. I find that sparing the fertilizer (organic, of course) produces stronger-stemmed, non-floppy plants. Many green industry professionals recommend removing flowers from newly planted cultivars so the plant’s energy is redirected to promote strong root development, rather than to flowers. Some argue that plants should be preened of flowers the entire first season, others suggest only for the first three or four weeks. And if you resent removing the flowers because you think that it’s unfair to pollinators, the truth is that many cultivars with unusual flower colors and shapes aren’t high, if at all, on pollinators’ visitation list.
Coral Bells (Heuchera)
Coral Bell ‘Cajun Fire’
Coral Bell ‘Spellbound’
Coral Bell ‘Sugar Berry’
It seems ages ago when coral bells were primarily admired for their flowers, and leaves were a second thought. Then ‘Palace Purple’ was named the 1991 Perennial of the Year and the race was on for exotic foliage colors. Similar to the coneflower craze, the cry for the newest and flashiest plants was echoed by consumers, as well as by income-driven growers. Many good plants were introduced as a result, and some real duds.
It’s fair to say that most coral bells look irresistible as first-year plants on nursery shelves. Sadly, their true colors don’t show until the second or third year when genetics start telling the real story.
In addition to genetic makeup, the species of coral bells (there are over 80) can play a big part in how it will perform in your garden. Eastern species, like villosa and americana, accept heat and humidity much better than Western ones. And those with micrantha in their “blood” are generally not as cold tolerant.
One way to eliminate trial and error and save yourself frustration and money is to check out Heuchera trial evaluations for your climate and zone. For example, Mt. Cuba Center (in Hockessin, DE) conducted a trial on 83 different cultivars in two species, villosa and americana, from 2012-2014. The top ten performers were ‘Citronelle’, ‘Bronze Wave’, ‘Cajun Fire’, ‘Color Dream’, ‘Steel City’, ‘Caramel’, ‘Apple Crisp’, ‘Frosted Violet’, ‘Southern Comfort’ and ‘Spellbound’. Chicago Botanic Garden and Colorado State University have also conducted and published studies.
Gardeners also play a part in a coral bells’ destiny. They require good drainage and air circulation; they hate wet soil – they’re not water plants or fire hydrants. In colder climates, do not plant coral bells where snow crashes off a sloping roof or piles up from snow blowers and plows. Large piles are slow to melt in spring, keeping the soil cold and wet for much longer (which is bad as well for any perennial that demands sharp drainage). Gardeners also need to watch for heaving plants in spring. As coral bells age, their crowns are prone to rising above the soil surface, exposing roots – especially common in colder climates where soil freezes and thaws. Gently press these insurgents back down into the ground.
BIENNIALS
The rich purple domes of Angelica gigas partner nicely with light pink Japanese Anemone
Biennials can be maddening for some gardeners: they are experts at hide and seek. To appreciate biennials you need to know their modus operandi. Simply put, in the first year they only produce foliage, in the second year flowers appear, and by the third year the party is over. The plant is dead. BUT…there should be (did you catch the italics?) little seedlings scattered about the garden for you to find. As they mature, this will count as year one and the story continues. Some biennials are rapid reseeders, like forget-me-nots. Others, not so much, like Angelica gigas.
Some commonly sold biennials include foxglove (Digitalis), hollyhock (Alcea rosea), wallflower (Cheiranthus), dame’s rocket (Hesperis), sweet William (Dianthus barbatus) and Canterbury bells (Campanula medium). And to make matters more confusing, some short-lived perennials are grouped with biennials. These include columbine (Aquilegia), Iceland poppy (Papaver nudicale), Miss Willmott’s ghost (Eryngium giganteum), gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia hirta), English button daisy (Bellis perennis), rose campion (Lychnis coronaria) and lupine.
Gloriosa Daisy
Sea Holly (Eryngium) ‘Miss Willmott’s Ghost’
Russian Hollyhock (Alcea rugosa)
Now, on to money-saving, smart purchasing tips for biennials:
■ Consider buying seeds. Many biennials are sold as seeds, which is the least expensive way to purchase them.
■ Buy first-year plants in small pots or when they go on sale. To save additional money, purchase pots in fall when prices have been slashed. Then set the first-years out in the garden where you want to see flowers the next season.
■ Avoid buying second-years. Don’t waste your money on second-years that have been marked down for sale, unless there are still a few flowers/seed heads left to salvage. I still wouldn’t bite unless the plant was marked at least 75% off and I was in a risk-taking mood.
■ Create a bloom cycle. Prime the garden pump and buy one first-year plant in a small container and one second-year plant in bud or just starting to bloom (usually sold in quart or gallon pot). This way you have a complete cycle already in place in the garden.
■ Hollyhocks and rust. Hollyhocks are beloved as old-fashioned cottage flowers. But they are prone to getting rust, a fungal disease on their leaves that is very hard to treat. Thankfully, fig-leaf (Alcea ficifolia) and Russian (Alcea rugosa) hollyhocks are more resistant to rust and can be longer-lived as well.
■ Dazzled by Gloriosa Daisies? Eye-popping varieties of Gloriosa Daisy (Rudbeckia hirta) like ‘Cherry Brandy’, sell like hotcakes when in bloom. They are usually sold in gallon-sized containers in the perennial section and cost a pretty penny. Remember, this beauty will most likely be dead the following year. I’m not saying that you shouldn’t make impulse buys, just be an informed consumer, and allow some to reseed. FYI: most Rudbeckia with fuzzy leaves like ‘Cherry Brandy’ are considered short-lived perennials or biennials.
■ Carrots in flower…double the pleasure. You might be surprised to learn that carrots are biennials. If you have traditionally grown these for their yummy roots, why not leave a few unharvested for flowers next year. They have striking Queen Anne’s lace-like flowers all summer long.
Gloriosa Daisy (Rudbeckia hirta) ‘Cherry Brandy’
Biennials aren’t no-brainer plants. They take some planning. If you want to save money and the headache of making sure that 1) second-year plants successfully reseed, 2) you don’t weed seedlings out as they emerge, and 3) the seeds land where you actually want flowers, then purchase long-lived perennial lookalikes instead. Here are a few captivating substitutes to consider:
4 Long-lived Perennial Lookalikes
BIENNIAL
Foxglove (Digitalis)
Miss Willmott’s Ghost (Eryngium)
Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)
Lupine (i.e. Russell Hybrids, Popsicle series)
Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus)
Sundial Lupine (Lupine perennis)
PERENNIAL
Digitalis grandiflora (also known as ambigua)
Eryngium ‘Big Blue’
Dianthus barbatus ‘Heart Attack’
Lupine perennis
Foxglove (Digitalis grandiflora)
Sea Holly (Eryngium) ‘Big Blue’
ORNAMENTAL GRASSES
Ornamental grasses rock! They have many “plant-and-forget” attributes. Most grasses are drought tolerant, deer and rabbit resistant, pollinator friendly, offer long seasonal interest, require no fertilizer, and are pest and disease free.
But to get the most bang for your buck from these superstars, I recommend considering the following characteristics before purchasing:
A Grass’s Posture
Is it narrow and upright like native feather reed grass ‘Karl Foerster’ (Calamagrostis acutiflora
