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INTRODUCTION

The Gratweg above the Aletschgletscher leads to Riederfurka (Walk 6)

The valley of the Rhône is a long, deep furrow cut by a plough of ice. Ice-melt fills its rivers, and the mountains that rear majestically to both north and south are laden with permanent snows that give birth to literally hundreds of glaciers, among them the largest in the Alps.

And yet the Rhône is not a frosty, arctic region at all. On the contrary, it’s a warm and sunny valley, its slopes terraced with vineyards and orchards of apple, peach, pear and apricot. Its climate is more akin to that of the Mediterranean than the high Alps, and the fertility of its broad, flat bed is there for all to see. But in marked contrast the tributary valleys which feed it are mostly narrow, tight-walled and rock-girt. Tiny villages hug abrupt hillsides. Above them ancient chalets and haybarns represent alp hamlets that command some of the loveliest views in all of Europe. These views are (forgive the cliché) simply breathtaking. They incorporate shapely peaks and long ridges bristling with spires. They dazzle with snowfields, hanging glaciers and the chaos of icefalls exposing several shades of blue in the eye-squinting light of summer. They include soft green pastures and the deeper forest green-that-is-almost-black, the shadowy-grey of ravines, the silver spray of cascades, the azure sparkle of a mountain lake. Wild flowers freckle the meadows in early summer with yellows and blues, pink and scarlet and mauve; a bewildering kaleidoscope of colour and fragrance is created, the air thrashed by butterflies’ wings as they flit from one pollen-heavy flower-head to another.

Walling these valleys, or standing sentry-proud at their head, are mountains straight out of dreams: the Bietschhorn, Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Dom, Weisshorn, Täschhorn, Zinal­rothorn, Ober Gabelhorn, Dent Blanche, Dent d’Hérens, Mont Collon, Pigne d’Arolla, Mont Blanc de Cheilon, Grand Combin, Mont Dolent…the list goes on and on of peaks that formed the backdrop to the adventures of Alpine Club pioneers who were active among the Pennine Alps a century and more ago. Yet although the foundations of mountaineering were set upon these peaks, one need not be a mountaineer to fall under their spell. You don’t have to climb them to enjoy their company, for by taking to the footpaths that weave among their shadows we can bask in their glory and become, for a few fleeting hours, days or weeks, figures in their landscape.

The footpaths of Switzerland’s Alpine regions are highways to a wonderland. Along them the fit and healthy, young and old, can become absorbed by a world of infinite beauty that may only be imagined by those who remain road-bound. The 8000km network of paths in canton Valais (Wallis to German-speaking Swiss) leads, surely, to some of the very best that this extravagantly picturesque country can boast. So, whether your wandering is limited to valley-bed trails, along the mountainsides from alp to alp, or more energetically over passes that conveniently breach some of the high ridges, there will invariably be something of scenic drama to see and to experience, thereby adding a richness to your Alpine days.

The Valais region has its own distinctive character, be that of its mountains, its valleys, the native population or the architecture of its villages, some of which came late into the 20th century. Even today a number of these villages retain an air of welcome simplicity that has long been lost in some of the area’s bustling resorts, which bear a closer kinship with European capital cities than they do with the pastoral communities gathered nearby. The vernacular architecture of the Valais, best represented by the beautiful old villages and alp hamlets, is heavily dependent upon wood, and practically every valley is characterised by chalets of dark brown (almost black) timbers on a stone foundation standing side by side with traditional mazots (haybarns or granaries). These mazots are also constructed of dark brown timbers, usually lengths of horizontally laid pine logs fitted one upon another, and stand on staddle stones (Mäusesteine – ‘mouse stones’) to resist the attention of rodents.

One of the flower-bedecked chalets at Clambin (Walk 97)

Chalets and haybarns close ranks alongside narrow cobbled alleyways, seemingly unaltered in appearance for hundreds of years. At their windows boxes of geraniums and petunias add welcome colour, while small square vegetable plots are kept trim with chard and lettuce growing in neat rows. The aroma of cut grass and cow dung hangs over many of the villages, and it’s not unusual to see women tackling everyday chores dressed in traditional costumes of long black skirts, white blouses and black bodices embroidered with red and white threads, and with red scarves loosely tied. Some of the older folk wear traditional bonnets too – not for show, not for the benefit of tourists or for Sunday mass, but because it is simply their way.

Mostly, of course, tourism has had a major impact on village life and on the mountain scene, especially where downhill skiing dominates the locality’s income. Above Zermatt and Saas Fee, for example, cableways whisk visitors to remote summits or viewpoints where restaurants and gift shops stand on rocks that once were known only to climbers and Alpine choughs. Engineers have even tunnelled into the mountains to create underground railways – remarkable feats of engineering, no doubt, but unwarranted acts of vandalism on a fragile mountain environment.

In several valleys enormous dams have been constructed, reservoirs created, and hundreds of kilometres of tunnels and aqueducts laid as part of the complex Grande Dixence hydro-electric scheme, a scheme that transformed large areas of the Pennine Alps of canton Valais in the latter half of the 20th century, and which conservationists today are anxious to prevent from spreading further.

Fortunately such developments are not experienced everywhere in the region, and there are scores of enchanting areas where the mountain wanderer can tread in the footsteps of the pioneers with nothing of the twenty-first century to tarnish his vision of untamed wildness. For although the peaks and valleys of Switzerland have all been mapped, named, measured and photographed, although their exploration has been recorded in so many different languages that it seems there is nothing left to discover, the perceptive wanderer who takes to the steeply winding trail across the alps of the Valais with his eyes alert and senses tuned will find many a surprise waiting just around the corner or over the next hillside bluff.

This guide will lead you to some of those surprises…

The Valais region

Canton Valais, third largest in the country, is that region of southwest Switzerland which surrounds the Rhône valley. It begins at the Rhônegletscher between the Grimsel and Furka passes, and then flows southwestward as the valley of Goms through Fiesch and down to Brig at the foot of the Simplon pass. Just beyond Brig the valley swings to the west, then curves southwest again at Sierre, which stands close by the language frontier. All to the east is German-speaking Wallis; to the west, French-speaking Valais.

The Rhône flows on towards the canton’s capital, Sion. This historic town, extensively modernised and developed, has at its core a pair of rather incongruous castle-topped hills that catch the eye as one approaches. Beyond them, with vines on the northern slopes and orchards to the south, the river reaches Martigny, a busy town at the hub of major through-ways. To the southwest the Col de la Forclaz road winds up among more vineyards on its way to Chamonix; to the southeast an international highway runs to the tunnel and pass of the Grand St Bernard, the long-established route to Italy. But the Rhône swings at right angles away from Martigny, heading almost to the north now to pass the wall of the Dents du Midi before spending itself in the huge teardrop of Lac Léman – the Lake of Geneva.

From the path of the Haut Tour du Lac (the Chemin 2500), practically the whole of the Val de Moiry can be seen in a single glance (Walk 79)

Around 15 per cent of the canton is covered by glaciers, for on either side of the Rhône stand the largest snow ranges of the Alps: the Bernese Alps to the north and Pennine Alps to the south. Both are great spawning grounds for glaciers, but the largest of all these icefields is the 22km long Grosser Aletschgletscher which, fed by other glaciers, curves like a vast arctic highway from Oberland giants such as the Jungfrau, Mönch and Fiescherhorn before coming to a halt near the Aletschwald, some 1200m above Brig. At the Konkordiaplatz the ice is said to be around 800m deep and 1800m wide, but in common with other Alpine glaciers the Grosser Aletschgletscher is in retreat, and measurements show that the annual rate of shrinkage is about 20m, while its depth is also being dramatically reduced.

As for the mountains of this scenically spectacular region, the chain of the Pennine Alps which stretches between the Col du Grand St Bernard and the Simplon pass claims a greater number of 4000m peaks than any other Alpine region, and includes the highest mountain standing entirely in Switzerland (the Dom, 4545m), above Saas Fee; the largest massif in Western Europe (Monte Rosa); and the Alps’ second highest summit after Mont Blanc (the Dufourspitze on Monte Rosa at 4634m), which is located a few metres west of the Italian border above Zermatt.

Perhaps the most attractive and challenging of Valaisian mountains on the north side of the Rhône is the 3934m Bietschhorn, which stands guard over the entrance to the Lötschental, dominates that valley with its elegant cone shape, but is also clearly evident from many paths and valleys of the Pennine Alps to the south.

The valleys

It is the lateral valleys which cut into these mountain ranges that provide the Valais with its essential charm, its scenic qualities, character and magnetic appeal. These valleys include the Saastal, Mattertal and Turtmanntal, the Vals d’Anniviers, d’Hérens, Nendaz and Bagnes, Entremont and Ferret and the Vallée du Trient, and the splendid Lötschental that carves into the wall of the Bernese Alps above Gampel. Each one has its own particular contrast of peak, pasture and glacier to ensure that walks tackled among them will provide a host of memorable experiences to relive in the months ahead.

Fieschertal and Aletsch Glacier

Northeast of Brig the Fieschertal is the longest of the northern tributaries feeding into Goms – the upper reaches of the Rhône’s valley. With Fiesch at its entrance, it’s a pleasant valley whose main attractions for walkers lie at its head, and on the high plateau of Bettmeralp to the west, reached by cablecar.

Glaciers and glacier gorges lend the area its most distinctive features. The Fieschertal has a gorge carved by the retreating Fieschergletscher, while on the far side of Bettmeralp’s backing wall, the longest of all Alpine glaciers, the Grosser Aletschgletscher, provides an exciting backdrop to a number of walking opportunities.

The Bettmeralp plateau is shared with the little resort of Riederalp which has the lovely Aletschwald nearby. This old larch forest is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site that includes the Jungfrau, Bietschhorn and Aletschgletscher. Perched high above the western edge of the latter’s glacier gorge, Belalp has far-reaching views and plenty of walking possibilities.

Lötschental

Midway between Visp and Sierre a side-road cuts north, snaking above Gampel before plunging into a tunnel, from which it emerges alongside the important trans-Alpine railway. Road and railway soon part company at Goppenstein, entrance to the Lötschbergtunnel, which carries the motor-rail through the mountains to Kandersteg and northern Switzerland. Beyond the station the valley remains a narrow defile until at Ferden the Lötschental curves to the northeast and opens into a sunny trench full of charm. A string of small villages (Kippel, Wiler, Ried and Blatten) stands above the right bank of the river, and high above them another collection of alp hamlets is linked by a footpath which carries the Lötschentaler Höhenweg, one of the finest of all the walks in the Valais. The Lötschental is the longest and by far the loveliest of those valleys which drain from the Bernese Alps into the Rhône, a romantic, unspoilt backwater, full of simple beauty.

Saastal

Saas Fee, one of the major resorts of the Valais

About 7km due south of Visp, Stalden stands at the confluence of the two most important valleys of the Valais – in terms of tourist appeal, that is: the Mattertal, which leads to Zermatt; and the Saastal, with Saas Fee its major attraction. The southeastern stem is the Saastal (served by postbus from Visp), which pushes deep into the eastern end of the Pennine Alps, with several attractive villages lining the bed of the valley, while car-free Saas Fee itself is located some 250m above the Saaser Vispa in a fabulous glacial cirque at the foot of the Mischabel wall, crowned by the Täschhorn, Dom, Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn. The valley extends further south beyond Saas Almagell, its highest village. The roadhead is at the Mattmark dam, but walkers can go on beyond that and climb to the Monte Moro pass on the Swiss/Italian border to gaze on the majestic East Face of Monte Rosa.

This is but one of countless very fine walking opportunities from and within the Saastal. There are extensive balcony paths that stretch almost the complete length of the valley, trails that edge the glaciers, and others that climb to remote mountain huts. Cableways provide opportunities to access high routes without major effort, while more gentle riverside rambles go from village to village through flower-filled meadows. The Saastal also makes a good base for a climbing holiday. Hard routes are to be found on the steep walls of the Mischabel group; there are snow climbs on Allalinhorn, Alphubel and Rimpfischhorn, and easier rock climbs on peaks neighbouring the Weissmies on the eastern side of the valley directly above Saas Grund.

Mattertal

It’s tempting to concentrate on Zermatt and its rim of 4000m mountains when describing the Mattertal, but the valley does have other places worth visiting – Grächen and Gasenried, for example, at the northern end of the valley above St Niklaus. The first is a sprawling resort with a sunny position and views across the Rhône, while Gasenried, much smaller, huddles below the Ried glacier, which hangs from the Nadelhorn and has its own undeniable magic. Across the valley the tiny hamlet of Jungen is indescribably lovely, a gathering of barns and chalets on a plunging hillside. Halfway between St Niklaus and Zermatt lies Randa, just far enough above the river and on the right side of the valley to have escaped obliteration by a massive rockfall in 1991 – the debris remains as a sober reminder of the fragile nature of the seemingly solid mountain walls. To all intents and purposes Täsch appears to be a car park for motor-free Zermatt, but move away from the railway and you’ll find an attractive, traditional Valaisian village, while the narrow valley that cleaves the mountains behind it leads to peaceful Täschalp and some wonderful mountain views.

That brings us to Zermatt and the Matterhorn. Zermatt, one of the busiest resorts in all the Alps, lies at the foot of the most distinctive of mountains. Once seen, never forgotten. The town has been a focus of attention for mountaineers since the mid-19th century. Nowadays most of the climbs involve long routes on snow and ice, and there are, of course, difficult test-pieces such as the North Face of the Matterhorn. Easier ascents exist for competent alpinists on the Monte Rosa massif, which boasts no fewer than ten 4000m summits, and on other peaks that wall the Swiss/Italian frontier: Liskamm, Castor, Pollux and Breithorn. All these mountains are on display to walkers tackling routes described in this guide without the need to set foot on ice or snow, and when viewed in their full spectacular spread above the Gorner glacier, the scale is almost Himalayan.

Turtmanntal

The Weisshorn is one of the most conspicuous peaks in the Mattertal, standing tall and proud west of Randa. It’s a massive peak whose icy West Face plunges into the Val de Zinal (the upper reaches of Val d’Anniviers), and whose northern aspect overlooks the little Turtmanntal, one of the shortest of the Rhône’s tributary valleys draining the Pennine Alps. It’s an undeveloped valley with a summer-only village, Gruben-Meiden, nestling among the pastures between two walkers’ passes used by trekkers on the classic Chamonix to Zermatt Walker’s Haute Route.

Val d’Anniviers and Val de Moiry

The road into Val d’Anniviers wriggles south of Sierre into the jaws of a gorge that obscures the valley’s wonders, but once you emerge from that, one delight after another is announced. A few small villages and hamlets cling to the steep hillsides on both sides of the valley, and at Vissoie the road forks, with a secondary route branching off to Grimentz and the Val de Moiry. The upper stem of the main valley takes its name from Zinal, the highest of its villages, which serves as an important, though small, mountaineering and walking centre. Reached by postbus from Sierre, Zinal lies just short of the glacial amphitheatre that closes the valley in an arc of towering peaks: Weisshorn, Zinal­rothorn, Ober Gabelhorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Cornier and Les Bouquetins. Thanks to the steepness of these walling mountains and the long ridges they push north, some of the trails in Val d’Anniviers are quite demanding, but the visual rewards they give more than compensate for the effort required to tackle them.

One of these routes crosses Col de Sorebois into the Val de Moiry. Much shorter than the main valley, the Moiry glen is known for the tightly packed and flower-choked village of Grimentz, and for the impressive icefall on the Moiry glacier near its head. The Cabane de Moiry enjoys a privileged close view of this icefall, and is approached by an entertaining walk along the moraine crest. Below the glacier a dammed lake forms part of the Grande Dixence hydro complex, its eastern shore tight against abrupt rock walls, its west bank rising to pastures, a farm and a few smaller natural lakes that make an obvious focus for other walks.

Vals d’Hérens and Hérémence

Cabane des Dix occupies a dramatic location at the foot of Mont Blanc de Cheilon (Walk 93)

These two valleys, which divide after a few kilometres, lie southeast of Sion and provide plenty of opportunities for walking holidays. Val d’Hérens is the more important of the two, with Evolène, Les Haudères and Arolla acting as low-key resorts, but there’s some very fine wild country to explore at the head of Val d’Hérémence, too, where the Cabane des Dix is perched on a plug of rock in full view of Mont Blanc de Cheilon’s North Face. East of the hut, across the Cheilon glacier, the ridge that divides the two valleys is breached by a pair of walkers’ passes and a highly recommended route to Arolla. Huddled among meadows in the bed of Val d’Hérens, Evolène and Les Haudères are typical Valaisian villages, while Arolla stands in isolation at the roadhead with snow-crowned mountains as its backdrop. Arolla remains unfussed and little changed by the advance of tourism, and is one of the best centres for aspirant alpinists in the Pennine Alps, as well as being a splendid walking centre with mountain huts, alp hamlets and tiny lakes to visit. Rising above the village some of the mountains are ringed with glacial moats, like Mont Collon, Pigne d’Arolla and Mont Blanc de Cheilon; the big wall of rock east of the village is jagged with spires and teeth, while to the west the Aiguilles Rouges have their own unique appeal.

Val de Bagnes

Accessed by train from Martigny and Sembrancher, Val de Bagnes makes a long southeasterly sweep towards the gigantic Mauvoisin dam, with modest villages like Le Châble and Fionnay in the valley, and Verbier perched 700m above it on an open terrace facing west. Rising vast and high above the valley, the graceful Combin massif is, from choice viewpoints, a Mont Blanc look-alike with three summits over 4000m, a great dome of snow, and long fingers of ice carving from it. Some of the walks described in these pages are dominated by its dazzle of white, and it comes as no surprise to discover that the Grand Combin offers one of the classic ski ascents – first tackled in 1907. South of Lac de Mauvoisin the valley headwaters retain a sense of wild remoteness, with the Italian border traced along the walling ridge, and the Cabane de Chanrion perfectly placed to accommodate both walkers and climbers in the pastures below.

Val d’Entremont

The Combin massif is seen at its best from the Sentier des Chamois (Walk 98)

Branching southeast of Orsières, this valley carries the road to the Col du Grand St Bernard and edges the western side of the Combin massif. Its villages, apart from Orsières at its entrance, are the modest settlements of Liddes and Bourg-St-Pierre, both fortunately bypassed by the road to Italy. Bourg has been used as a mountaineering base, and from it routes climb to a brace of mountain huts on the slopes of Mont Vèlen and the Grand Combin, while the western side of the valley is largely snow-free and much lower than its neighbour. Here the Combe de l’A makes a long inroad into the mountains and offers a way over a col at its head into the upper reaches of the Val Ferret.

Val Ferret

Traversed by walkers tackling the Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB), the Val Ferret is a distinctly pastoral valley that lies on the outer edge of the Mont Blanc massif. Several small villages and hamlets inhabit the valley, but these mostly disregard the needs of visitors. Only La Fouly, which gazes into a cirque topped by Mont Dolent and the Tour Noir, devotes itself to walkers and climbers, and it is well worth seeking out for there are some splendid walks and views to enjoy. Like the Vals d’Entremont and Bagnes, the valley is reached from Martigny via Sembrancher. The St Bernard Express (a very slow train despite its name) continues as far as Orsières, where the Vals Ferret and d’Entremont part company. Just out of Orsières a road breaks away to climb in numerous hairpins to Champex, a delightful, small but attractive resort also visited by trekkers on the TMB. With the unspoilt Val d’Arpette behind it, Champex is another worthwhile base for a few days of a walking holiday.

Vallée du Trient

This, the most westerly of the region’s valleys, lies to the southwest of Martigny, by which it is reached across the Col de Forclaz. A very short, glacier-carved glen, Trient is its only village (discounting neighbouring Le Peuty, which is just a hamlet), but being on the route of both the Tour of Mont Blanc and the Walker’s Haute Route it has a disproportionate amount of accommodation almost entirely aimed at the outdoor fraternity. The village looks up to glaciers that hang from abrupt rocky slopes, the view framed by dark pinewoods. It’s an appealing sight, and the various walks on offer make the most of such views. One of the recommended routes climbs easily to the French border at Col de Balme, where an unforgettable scene reveals the Aiguilles Verte and Drus, and the massive snow dome of Mont Blanc shining in the distance. As Alpine connoisseur RLG Irving once wrote: ‘If that view does not thrill you, you are better away from the Alps.’

Getting there

By air

Readers are warned that information about air travel is especially vulnerable to change. Even without mentioning a host of different fare structures, schedules are frequently rearranged, routes introduced and cancelled, airlines go out of business and others are formed year by year to increase competition. Information given below can, therefore, be offered only as a rough guide. The best advice is to either visit your local travel agent for current offers or browse the Internet. In any case, shop around.

Switzerland’s main international airports are at Geneva and Zürich, both of which are just an escalator ride from a mainline railway station. Bern and Basel are also used, but by a smaller number of flights, and involve bus transfers to the nearest stations. Geneva is the most convenient airport for a visit to the Valais, with a direct rail link to all main Rhône valley stations.

Daily scheduled flights are operated by British Airways from London Heathrow and Gatwick to Geneva and Zürich. BA flies direct from Manchester to Zürich and, six times a week, to Geneva. Less convenient for visitors to the Valais, BA also flies between Heathrow and Basel. For travellers from Ireland, BA has a service from Dublin to Geneva via Gatwick (www.britishairways.com).

SWISS (the national carrier formed after the collapse of Swissair) at present offers 42 daily scheduled departures from London Heathrow, London City, Birmingham, Manchester and the Channel Islands to Geneva, Zürich and Basel (Tel 0845 607 3000, www.swiss.com).

Swisswings Airlines (a Swiss regional carrier) operates a daily service between London City and Bern.

Currently by far the cheapest scheduled flights are by Easyjet, which operates between London Gatwick and Geneva and Zürich, Luton and Zürich, and also Liverpool to Geneva (www.easyjet.com).

Several airlines fly from North America to Geneva and/or Zürich, with departures from Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, New York and Washington. Check with www.travelocity.com or www.expedia.com for the latest fares.

By rail

By a combination of Eurostar (London St Pancras to Paris via the Channel Tunnel) and TGV (Paris to Geneva or Lausanne) high-speed rail travel offers an alternative to flying, although the overall cost may be no less than an air fare. Assuming connections are made, the journey time from London to Geneva or Lausanne can be as little as 8 hours, although you should allow for 12 hours or so to reach your final destination.

At least 14 Eurostar trains per day travel between St Pancras and the Gare du Nord in Paris, the journey time being around 3 hours. In Paris transfer to the Gare de Lyon for the TGV departure to either Geneva or Lausanne – there’s a choice of several trains each day and the journey time is around 4–4½ hours (timings vary from season to season).

For up-to-date rail information contact Rail Europe (Tel 08705 848 848, www.raileurope.com).

By road

If planning to drive to Switzerland, remember that French motorways are toll roads, and that a special sticker (Vignette) must be purchased for travel on the Swiss motorway system. This is available at border crossings, or in advance from the Switzerland Travel Centre, 10th Floor, 10 Wardour St., London W1D 6QF (Tel 00800 100 200 30, stc@london.com, www.MySwitzerland.com). The minimum age to drive in Switzerland is 18, and both UK and North American drivers’ licences are accepted.

BAGGAGE TRANSFER

When flying you can take advantage of a unique ‘Fly Rail Baggage’ scheme which enables you to check in your baggage at the departure airport, and on arrival in Switzerland it will be transported directly to the railway station of your chosen resort. There’s no waiting at the arrival airport’s carousel or hustling your baggage from plane to train. The system is straightforward, safe and convenient, and also works on the homeward journey. But you pay for each item of luggage transferred. When booking your flight, ask for details.

Note: Only ‘Nothing to Declare’ baggage can be included in this scheme, which is not available on Go or EasyJet airlines, or for British Airways passengers with ‘E’ tickets.

Transport within the Valais

Switzerland’s extensive public transport system is second to none. It is truly integrated, famously efficient, clean, punctual and of great value to the walker. Schedules are dovetailed not only between different train operators but also to concide with bus services. In short, travel by public transport in Switzerland is a pleasure, not a frustration.

A main-line railway runs the length of the Rhône valley providing fast and frequent links with other parts of the country. From Visp a branch line (the BVZ) extends through the Mattertal to Zermatt; from Martigny the St Bernard Express serves Sembrancher, Le Châble (Val de Bagnes), Orsières, and the Val d’Entremont; while further north, in Val d’Illiez below the Dents du Midi, a branch line runs from Monthey to Champery.

For access to the Lötschental, a rail link is provided by the Brig–Kandersteg line via Goppenstein, from where a connecting postbus ferries Lötschental-bound passengers into the valley proper.

For timetable information visit www.rail.ch.

The yellow postbus travels practically everywhere there’s a motorable road, and is as predictably punctual as the rail system. In village centres the main bus stop will be outside the Post Office (PTT). Elsewhere the postbus calls at railway stations and main points of habitation, but the PTT Haltestelle sign is also seen at strategic locations such as a junction of valleys or where there’s access to a popular walk.

Various incentives are available to holiday makers to encourage use of either the railways or postbus services. These are outlined below, and can be purchased in the UK from the Switzerland Travel Centre in London (Tel 00800 100 200 30, stc@london.com, www.MySwitzerland.com; further information is available at www.rail.ch/sts).

Swiss Pass: This entitles the holder to unlimited travel by postbus, rail and lake ferry for periods of 4, 8, 15 and 22 days, or a month. Discounts are also given on most forms of mountain transport.

Swiss Youth Pass: Advantages are the same as for the Swiss Pass, but young people under the age of 26 can obtain the Swiss Youth Pass at a discount of 25 per cent.

Swiss Flexi Pass: Similar to the above, except that the Flexi Pass is valid for 3, 4, 5, 6 or 8 days within a month.

Swiss Half-Fare Card: Valid for one month, the card allows unlimited purchase of train, bus, boat and some cablecar tickets at half price.

Swiss Transfer Ticket: The STT is useful for visitors planning to stay in a single base. It is valid for a period of one month and gives one free round-trip to any destination in Switzerland. The trip can start at any Swiss airport or border, and each leg of the trip must be completed on the same day. Holders of the Swiss Transfer Ticket can also claim discounts on most mountain lift systems.

Swiss Card: An extended version of the Swiss Transfer Ticket, the Swiss Card gives the holder a 50 per cent discount on all further train, bus or boat travel.

Swiss Travel System Family Card: Children under 16 years of age travel free if accompanied by at least one parent in possession of a Swiss Card, Swiss Pass or Flexi Pass. Non-family members between 6 and 16 years old receive a 50 per cent discount. The Family Card is available free of charge from the Switzerland Travel Centre in London.

Regionalpass Oberwallis: Within the Oberwallis region (the German-speaking part of the canton), this 7-day pass gives 3 days free travel – simply enter the days of your choice on the pass – and reductions of 50 and 25 per cent on the other 4 days. The Regional Pass can be obtained from all public transport stations and tourist offices in the Oberwallis.

Accommodation

Gspon, above the Saastal’s entrance, with the Bietschhorn as a backdrop (Walk 16)

A wide range of accommodation is available within the area covered by this guidebook, from the most basic campsite to the ultimate in hotel luxury. Outline details are given within the main body of this guide, but for specific information you are advised to contact the local tourist offices, which can usually supply printed lists of facilities, addresses and prices (tourist office contact details are given in the introductory section of each valley covered in the guide). It is perhaps worth stressing that good accommodation may not be as expensive as imagined. Prices are often more modest than the official star-rating might suggest.

Official campsites

Most of the region’s valleys have official campsites. Some of these are rather basic, although the majority have first-class toilet and washing blocks, and some boast laundry facilities and drying rooms. Do not assume that the larger the resort, the better the campsite, for the converse is often true! Note that off-site camping in Switzerland is officially forbidden. Annual lists of camping and caravan sites are published by the Touring Club of Switzerland (www.tcs.ch) and the Swiss Camping Association (www.campingswiss.ch). Another website which lists campsites throughout the country is www.campingnet.ch, while the Switzerland Travel Centre will send a camping guide to the Valais on request.

Youth hostels

Swiss Youth Hostels (Auberge de Jeunesse Suisse or Schweizer Jugendherbergen) provide reasonably priced accommodation, are affiliated to Hostelling International, and are open to all young people holding a current membership card. Small dormitories and family rooms are generally available. For a current list visit www.youthhostel.ch or contact Schweizer Jugendherbergen, Schaffhauserstr. 14, Postfach, CH-8042 Zürich.

Gîtes d’étape

In many respects a gîte d’étape is like a private youth hostel, with modestly priced dormitory accommodation, communal washrooms and, usually, meals provided. Almost exclusively aimed at walkers and trekkers, a few of these establishments exist within the area covered by this guide. Again, contact the local tourist office for specific addresses.

Dortoirs/Matratzenlager

Several Valaisian hotels provide low-cost communal dormitories in addition to standard bedrooms. Some have traditional two-tier bunk beds, others merely a supply of mattresses on the floor of a large room. Enquire at the local tourist office.

Bed and Breakfast

Similar to bed and breakfast establishments in the UK, private rooms (Chambres d’hôtes or Gästezimmer) are located in a number of villages and resorts throughout the Valais, and their details are usually available from the local tourist office. An annual booklet listing those in the Valais region is published in Sierre. Write to: Chambres d’hôtes VS13, Cathy Renggli, Route des Liddes 12, CH-3960 Sierre (info@bnb.ch, www.homestay.ch or www.bnb.ch).

Mountain huts

A cosy atmosphere is created in the dining room of the Burg Hut (Walk 1)

Since the majority of mountain huts (refuge, cabane, hütte) are located in spectacular surroundings, they usually provide a memorable experience for the first-time user. Although primarily intended as an overnight base for climbers, a number of Valaisian huts are accessible to walkers. Mostly owned by the Swiss Alpine Club, but open to all, mixed-sex dormitories are the norm for sleeping accommodation (take your own sheet sleeping bag) and washing facilities can be primitive, but where a guardian (hut keeper) is in residence for the summer, meals and refreshments are usually available. Basic details are given in the main section of this book, but further information is available at www.sac-cas.ch, which provides a list.

As a number of routes contained in this guide visit mountain huts, a note on hut etiquette may be useful for newcomers intending to stay. Upon arrival remove your boots and change into a pair of special hut shoes (clogs or slippers) found on racks in the boot room or porch. Locate the guardian to book sleeping space for the night and any meals required. Meal times are usually fixed, and a choice of menu is sometimes, but not always, available. Payment should be made in cash the night before your departure. Although you will be allocated a place in a dormitory, access to it may not be possible until the evening. Since the room may be unlit, keep your headtorch or flashlight handy.

Holiday apartments

Giving a degree of freedom and flexibility, self-catering apartments are an option worth considering by families or groups of friends if you plan to base your holiday in one centre. A large number of villages mentioned in this book have apartments for rent, usually for a minimum of one week.

Hotels and mountain inns

Berghotel Almagelleralp enjoys a secluded location deep within the Almagellertal (Walk 20)

As mentioned above, a wide range of hotels exist throughout the Valais region. In addition, some of the more popular areas have mountain inns that may not be star rated, but, being located in often remote or romantic sites, provide accommodation with appeal. A few mountain restaurants also offer good value overnight accommodation in bedrooms or dormitories. Enquire at the nearest tourist office for details.

Package holidays

Holiday packages which provide both accommodation and travel can offer a useful service at a competitive rate for walkers looking for a base in a specific resort. The following tour companies have packages in Valais resorts: Crystal Holidays, Inghams Travel and Thomson Holidays – study their ‘Lakes & Mountains’ brochures available from high-street travel agents.

Weather

Located in a beautiful cirque walled by the Weisshorn and Zinalrothorn, the Cabane d’Ar Pitetta looks wintry after a summer snowstorm

It’s an old adage, but there’s more than a ring of truth to it: ‘Mountains make their own weather.’ This is as true of the Valais as it is of any other region of the Alps, and from massif to massif, valley to valley, and even from one side of a valley to another and from the foot of a mountain to its summit, different influences come into play to create micro-climates and individual weather systems. On the whole, Valaisian valleys not only benefit from lying in the rain-shadow of the Bernese Alps, but enjoy a more settled and slightly warmer climate than their neighbours. However, generalisations are not to be taken too seriously, especially as Alpine weather patterns appear to be in a state of flux under the influence of global warming, and walkers who go there should be prepared for all eventualities.

If planning to walk reasonably high, June will normally be the earliest month to contemplate a holiday in the Alps, and even then there will probably be limitations because of low-lying snow or even avalanche danger. In the Valais, temperatures are at their highest in July, with the likelihood of electrical storms; rainfall is at its heaviest in August, while September can be utterly magical. Then the first night-frosts will be experienced in the mountains, and the days can often be luminescently clear. If the weather holds, October rewards with larchwoods turning gold and fresh powder snow on the summits, but many resorts will be closing down for a few weeks before the winter season begins.

When the Föhn blows there will be clear skies for several days, but in the wake of this warm, dry wind, rain should be expected. Snow can fall at any time of the year in the higher valleys, and sudden violent thunderstorms are not at all uncommon in summer.

The Swiss meterological service, MeteoSwiss, is challenged by the complex nature of forecasting the day-to-day weather for such a mountainous country, and while the published four-day forecast provides a general picture of trends, it can only be that – a general picture. The broadcast daily weather report is more helpful, and a local weather bulletin is usually posted in the window of tourist offices and mountain guides’ bureaux. For an internet report in English, visit www.meteoswiss.admin.ch/web/en.html – this provides a daily forecast as well as a five-day prediction. Current weather conditions throughout Switzerland can be checked on www.MySwitzerland.com.

Notes for walkers

This book is intended to be used by casual walkers who may never have visited the Alps before, as well as by the more experienced mountain wanderer aiming for the snowline. There’s something in the Valais to suit everyone, and each level – from valley bed to mountain summit – has its own very special charm.

Routes described in these pages have been chosen with a particular viewpoint, lake, alp hamlet, hut or pass as the goal, while the principal objective of each walk is to enjoy a day’s exercise among some of Europe’s most visually exciting scenery. But to gain the most from an active holiday in the Valais one needs to be in a reasonably good physical condition on arrival. That way you can face the initial uphill path without feeling daunted, and enjoy the first day of your holiday as much as the last.

Avoid being over-ambitious for the first few days, especially if you’ve never walked in the Alps before. It’s worth remembering that some of the valley resorts are situated higher than Britain’s highest mountain, and the altitude may demand a few adjustments, so plan your programme of walks to increase gradually both in distance and height-gain over the period of your stay. A range of walks has been chosen for this book, and there should be sufficient routes on offer to enable most walkers to enjoy a good day out at a level to suit their particular ability and ambition.

Walks fall into three categories, graded 1–3, with the highest grade given to the more challenging routes. This grading system is purely subjective, but is offered to provide a rough idea of what to expect. There are moderate walks (Grade 1) that would appeal to most active members of the family, while the majority of routes are graded 2 or 3, largely as a result of the very nature of the landscape, which can be pretty challenging. A full definition of these grades is given at the end of this Introduction.

Typical Swiss efficiency ensures that most walks are well signed

Most of the paths adopted for these routes are well maintained, waymarked and signed at junctions with typical Swiss efficiency. Apart from a few districts where the local tourist office has put its own stamp of individuality on signposts, the majority of path signs are painted yellow and contain the names of major landmark destinations, such as a pass, lake, hut or village, with estimated times given in hours (Std – Stunden – in German-speaking districts; h – heures – in French) and minutes (min). A white plate on these yellow signs gives the name of the immediate locality, and often the altitude too. Rarely do described routes stray onto unpathed territory, but where they do, occasional cairns and/or waymarks guide the route. In such places it is essential to remain vigilant to avoid becoming lost – especially if visibility is poor. If in doubt about the onward route, return to the last point where you were certain of your whereabouts and try again. If you consult the map frequently during your walk, it should be possible to keep abreast of your position and anticipate junctions before you reach them.

For safety’s sake, never walk alone on remote trails, on moraine-bank paths or glaciers. If you prefer to walk in a group but have not made prior arrangements to join an organised holiday, the staff of several tourist offices arrange day walks in the company of a qualified leader. These take place throughout the summer months and are often free of charge to those staying in the organising resort. Enquire at the local tourist office for specific details.

SAFETY CHECKLIST

 Before setting out, check the weather forecast (see above) and be aware that all Alpine areas are subject to rapidly changing conditions; throughout the day you should watch for tell-tale signs and be prepared for the worst by having adequate clothing.

 Study route details beforehand, noting any particular difficulties and the amount of time needed to complete the route. Make sure you can be back safely before nightfall.

 On a full-day’s walk carry food (and emergency rations such as chocolate or dried fruit), and at least one litre of liquid per person to avoid dehydration.

 Leave details of your planned route and expected time of return with a responsible person.

 Be vigilant when crossing wet rocks, scree, snow patches and mountain streams. If you come to a section of path safeguarded by fixed ropes or chains, check that they have not worked loose before relying on them.

 Do not stray onto glaciers unless you have experienced companions and the necessary equipment to deal with crevasse rescue. Keep away from icefalls and hanging glaciers.

 Avoid dislodging stones onto others who might be below.

 Never be reluctant to turn back in the face of deteriorating weather or if the route becomes hazardous. In the event of your being unable to reach the place where you are expected, try to send a message.

 Carry map and compass (and GPS if you have one) with you – and know how to use them.

 Always carry some first aid equipment, as well as a whistle and torch for use in emergencies. The emergency telephone number for mountain rescue is 144. Try not to need it!

 Make a note of the International Distress Signal printed at the front of this guide: six blasts on a whistle (and flashes of a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute’s silence. Then repeat until an answer is received and your position located. The answer is three signals followed by a minute’s pause.

 Be insured against accidents (rescue and subsequent medical treatment), for although mountain rescue is highly organised and efficient in Switzerland, it can be extremely expensive for the casualty.

 Finally, please help keep the mountains and their valleys litter-free.

Suggested equipment

Walkers on the path below Cabane d'Ar Pitetta (Val d’Anniviers)

While experienced hill walkers will no doubt have their own preferences, the following list is offered as a guide to newcomers to the Alps. Some items will clearly not be needed if you envisage tackling only low valley routes.

Clothing

 Walking boots – must be comfortable, a good fit, have ankle support and plenty of grip in the soles

 Trainers or similar for wearing in huts, hotels and villages

 Wind- and water-proof jacket and overtrousers

 Woollen hat and sunhat

 Gloves

 Fleece or woollen sweater

 Shirts – 2 or 3 for a fortnight’s holiday

 Warm long trousers, slacks or breeches – not jeans, which are very cold when wet and take ages to dry

 Shorts (optional)

 Long woollen socks

 Underwear

Miscellaneous

 Rucksack – with waterproof liner and/or cover

 Sheet sleeping bag or liner (if you intend to sleep in huts)

 Bivvy bag – in case of emergencies

 Umbrella – excellent rain protection; especially useful for spectacle wearers

 Trekking pole(s) – highly recommended

 Headtorch plus spare batteries and bulbs

 Water bottle (1 litre minimum)

 Sunglasses, suncream/sunblock and lip salve

 First aid kit

 Map and compass (and GPS if available)

 Whistle

 Watch

 Guidebook

 Penknife

 Camera and films

 Altimeter

 Binoculars

Recommended maps

The Landeskarte der Schweiz (LS) series of maps that cover the Valais region are magnificent works of art. Open any sheet and a picture of the country immediately leaps from the paper – for by clever use of shading, contours and colouring, the line of ridges and rock faces, the flow of glaciers and streams, the curve of an amphitheatre, narrow cut of a valley, expanse of a lake, and the forest cover of a hillside all announce themselves with great clarity. They are a source of inspiration prior to setting out and a pleasure to use day by day.

At the head of each valley section in this book, a note is given in regard to the specific map recommended for use. In every instance the 1:50,000 series of Wanderkarten, produced in collaboration with the Swiss walking organisation the SAW (Schweizerische Arbeitsgemeinschaft für Wanderwege), has been chosen. Although more detail is presented on the 1:25,000 sheets, the Wanderkarten – distinguished by their orange covers and with the letter ‘T’ after their official number – should be adequate for most, if not all, the walks described. These maps are available in the UK from Edward Stanford’s in London (see Appendix A for the address) or locally in the Valais from bookshops or tourist offices.

The commercial publisher Kümmerly + Frey also covers the Valais with a series of 1:60,000 maps based on the LS sheets, and these are mostly available in local resorts. Their 1:120,000 sheet Wallis covers the entire canton and is a useful locator, with a number of major long walking routes outlined in red.

Some regional tourist authorities also produce their own Wanderkarten to show walking routes based on specific resorts or valleys, and these are on sale at the local tourist offices.

Using this guide

Lac Bleu is popular with visitors to Arolla, and is reached by a very pleasant walk of an hour and a half (Walk 86)

The layout of this guide follows an east–west convention, beginning on the north side of the Rhône valley and describing routes from the Fieschertal and the Lötschental, then moving to the Pennine Alps south of the Rhône. The most easterly valley to be described here is the Saastal, after which the guide moves west into the Mattertal, before visiting the Turtmanntal, Val d’Anniviers and so forth.

Each valley system is treated as a separate unit (or section), for which a map is provided as a locator. The walks themselves should be followed on the recommended topographical map of the area. Within each valley section details are given in regard to the various villages or resorts, their access, facilities, tourist offices, huts, etc, and a number of walks of various grades are then described. All the walks are listed in an index at the back of this book, and an explanation of the grading system is found below.

Distances and heights are quoted throughout in kilometres and metres. These details are taken directly from the map, where possible, but in attempting to measure the actual distance of each walk it has been necessary to make an estimation, for with countless zigzags on many of the routes, it’s impossible to be precise.

Times quoted for each route are approximations only. They refer to actual walking time and make no allowances for rest stops or interruptions for photography – such stops can add considerably (25 per cent or more) to the overall time you’re out during the day, so bear this in mind when planning your day’s activity. Although such times are given as an aid to planning they are, of course, subjective, and each walker will have his or her own pace which may or may not coincide with that quoted. By comparing your times with those given here, you should soon gain an idea of the difference and be able to compensate accordingly.

In route descriptions ‘left’ and ‘right’ apply to the direction of travel, whether in ascent, descent or traverse. However, when used with reference to the banks of glaciers or streams, ‘left’ and ‘right’ indicate the direction of flow, ie: looking downwards. Where doubts might occur, a compass direction is also given.

Abbreviations are used sparingly in the guide, but some have of necessity been adopted. While most should be easily understood, the following list is given for clarification:

 C–Z Chamonix to Zermatt, the Walker’s Haute Route

 LS Landeskarte der Schweiz (maps)

 PTT Post Office (Post, Telephone & Telegraph)

 SAC Swiss Alpine Club

 VTT Trains à Grande Vitesse

 TMB Tour of Mont Blanc

Grading of walks

The walks in this book have been chosen with the express aim of helping you to make the most of your holiday in the Valais, and since it is hoped that walkers of all degrees of commitment will find something useful here, a grading system has been used to direct readers to the standard of outing that might best suit their requirements. As mentioned above, the walks have been graded into three categories, but since the grading of walks is not an exact science, each of these categories will cover a fairly wide spectrum. There will inevitably be variations and, no doubt, a few anomolies which may be disputed by users of this book, but they are offered in good faith and as a rough guide only.

Grade 1: Suitable for family outings; mostly short distances or walks along gently graded paths or tracks with little altitude gain.

Grade 2: Moderate walking, mostly on clear footpaths with a reasonable amount of height gain. Walkers should be adequately shod and equipped.

Grade 3: More strenuous routes on sometimes rough or unclear paths. Some modest scrambling or use of ladders, fixed ropes, etc, may be involved in rare instances. A head for heights may be called for. On some of these routes there will be passes to cross, some glacial travel (individual sections will be marked in the text) and possibly screes to contend with. In short, true Alpine walking. There will be steep ascents and descents, and fairly long distances involved. Walkers attempting these should be fit and well equipped.

The ladder route below the Pas de Chèvres (Walk 92)

INFORMATION AT A GLANCE

Currency: The Swiss franc (CHF); 100 centimes/rappen = 1CHF. Although Switzerland is not in the Euro zone, some hotels and retail outlets accept payment by Euro. Change will be given in Swiss francs.

Formalities: Holders of a valid UK passport or the national identity card of a Western European country do not need a visa to enter Switzerland. Citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa can stay for up to three months without a visa.

Health precautions: At the time of going to press, there are neither major health concerns to consider nor vaccinations required by visitors entering Switzerland from Europe or the West. However, as there is no state health service and all medical treatment must be paid for, it is advisable to take out insurance cover that includes personal accident and sickness. Should you plan to tackle walking routes that stray from habitation, rescue cover in the event of an accident ought to be included.

International dialling code: When dialling Switzerland from the UK: 0041. To phone the UK from Switzerland the code is 0044, then ignore the initial 0 of the area code which follows. Cashless Swiss public call boxes are operated by a phonecard (Taxcard) on sale at post offices, newsagents and railway stations for CHF 5, CHF 10 and CHF 20.

Language: French and German in the Valais, but English is widely spoken.

Tourist information: Valais Tourism, Rue Pré-Fleuri 6, 1951 Sion, Switzerland (Tel 0041/(0)27 327 35 70, info@valaistourism.ch, www.valaistourism.ch or www.matterhornregion.com); Switzerland Travel Centre Ltd, 30 Bedford St, London WC2E 9ED (Tel 00800 100 200 30, info.uk@myswitzerland.com, www.MySwitzerland.com)