Читать книгу A Walk in the Clouds - Kev Reynolds - Страница 20

9

THE LONGEST DAY

When summer climbs are dreamed of at home during the winter months, ideas and ambitions often outstrip reality. Sometimes the weather gods conspire against the best-laid plans, and time runs out before much can be achieved, as Keith and I found in the late spring of 1975.

The shepherd’s hut was as squalid inside as it had first appeared from across the stream when we’d spied it through the storm. About three paces long by two wide, it had a low, absorbent roof through which the rain dripped at unsuitably strategic points. A makeshift shutter was placed against a tiny window, and when it was removed the squall burst in. There was only a broken pane of glass in this window. The floor was the same granite as the mountains that rose on three sides, as uneven as a sheet of corrugated iron and littered with the droppings of innumerable sheep. Cows had been outside; sheep inside. Fortunately there were neither this morning, and the hut was deserted. It was also cold, damp and smelly. Against one wall leaned a rough bench, and the only remaining item of furniture was a shelf suspended on wire hooks from the ceiling.

It wasn’t much, but with every crash of thunder we were thankful for its existence. This was no day to be caught crossing a high pass, which had been our plan when we’d struck camp a couple of hours earlier.

Our first task now was to get out of wet clothes and find the means by which to hang them. Drying facilities were negligible, but at least there was room for waterproofs to drip while we enjoyed the luxury of shirt and trousers that were not soaked through.

Outside the storm continued its attack with sheets of rain and a wind that rattled both the door and the temporary shutter at the window. It was a vicious morning that bore no resemblance to the dreams that had sustained me all winter long, and had brought us here with summer optimism and an ambitious list of routes to climb and passes to cross. This storm had a permanent feel to it. It would not blow itself out in an hour or two. It would not flee to other mountains, other valleys. It was trapped here, as we were, by a semi-circle of peaks that turned our cirque into a turbulent cauldron.

Keith settled himself on the bench and rolled a cigarette, and when that was finished he suggested we light a fire. ‘Go and find some decent wood’, he said, ‘while I start things off with this little heap of kindling.’ He motioned to a small pile of sticks laced with cobwebs beside the fireplace.

I glared at him, hating the way he’d contrived to stay inside while I braved the storm once more, but said nothing. Pulling on my cold, wet, so-called waterproofs, I went outside and slithered down to the stream beside which I remembered seeing some dead wood. Moss coated and mud-spattered it was not the most satisfactory fuel, but the long-dead branches would have to do. My search for better firewood would not lead far in this weather.

Twenty minutes later the hut was filled with smoke that burned our eyes and started uncontrollable bouts of coughing. I fled outside, clambered onto the roof, and removed the stone slab that covered the chimney. With that the smoke billowed into my face.

‘Thanks,’ said Keith. ‘That’s a great improvement.’

Seconds tediously multiplied into minutes, and the minutes slowly drifted into hours. The fire flared and settled; it crackled and spat. Occasionally a downdraft blew smoke into the room. Sheep dung was fed onto the slow-burning wood, and our clothing took on its odour. Outside the storm showed no sign of easing.

Morning reached maturity, became mid-day. We would eat.

Keith was fastidious over the preparation of a weak soup, but it was I who had to brave the tumult for water.

All the food we’d brought from home to last a fortnight in the hills was carefully set out. This was food to sustain long days – not in crude shepherd’s huts, but on sunlit climbs from a camp in the valley beyond the mountains, now barred to us by lightning. At home every item had been calculated by weight rather than proper nutritional value; there was little to spare, and like chancellors balancing the exchequer we estimated days remaining, meals required and the demands for brews. There were no excesses, no allowances for days like this, when even the simple task of making an extra tea or coffee could be justified as a means of combating boredom to help survive this unexpected, unwelcome and endless day.

In the middle of the afternoon the storm drew breath, allowing the sun to make a feeble appearance through layers of cloud, taunting us with a glimpse of rock walls spattered with new snow, and when I stepped outside and turned to the west I convinced myself that I could almost see the pass that would enable our escape. But not today, for the storm returned once more as the only certainty in these uncertain times. Fine-weather climbs, I decided, live only in memory and anticipation of a bright future. The present was no more than a revolving carousel of thunder, lightning and torrential rain.

An hour later the fury built to Wagnerian proportions; our poor leaking shelter stood in the vortex and would have shaken to its very foundations, if it had foundations, which it hadn’t. Instead, it appeared to rock with every thunderous eruption. Glistening lines of water ran down the walls to form rivulets on the floor; the ceiling dripped and our misery increased. And it was then that we received a visitor.

Out of the smoke, down the soot-blackened chimney, emerged a rat. With sorrowful eyes that pierced the gloom it pleaded for mercy. The hell in here, it seemed to say, is nothing compared with the hell outside. Then it made a traverse of the end wall, negotiated an overhang, and shrank into a tiny crack that could be used for a bivouac. And there it remained for the rest of the day, untroubled and untroubling, invisible save for a pair of sad eyes and a damp nose.

I knew exactly how it felt.

Day was almost over and we had achieved nothing. In the world beyond the storm perhaps the sun was descending to a far-off valley. In our hut it had never been anything brighter than twilight all day, and now the air was growing much, much colder. Perhaps it would snow overnight. I looked at my watch and announced it was time to eat. We’d prepare a decent meal this time, subdue our despair with something tasty – something that didn’t have the flavour of monosodium glutamate. But in the middle of our fantasising, Keith suddenly said: ‘Hey, have you considered where we’ll sleep?’

‘No.’

Neither of us had given a thought to night’s approach, being fixated by the storm and dreams of food beyond our reach. And a forlorn hope of escape. But as I looked around me, at pools of tan-coloured water and boot-flattened sheep dung, I knew this stinking hut would not do for a bedroom.

‘You’ll just have to face the weather after all,’ I told him, and suddenly felt much brighter. ‘You’ll have to go outside and put the tent up before darkness falls.’

‘Me? Why me?’

‘It’s your tent.’

So he went outside while I took his place beside the fire and began to prepare our meal. And I smiled for the first time that day as I listened to the rain smacking against the hut and the symphony of the storm outside. If anything, it was growing wilder out there, and he was gone a long, long time.

Then the door burst open and he was silhouetted in its opening. Water poured from his clothes; his long hair was matted and rain dripped from his nose.

‘What d’you want first?’ he asked. ‘The good news or the bad news?’

My heart sank. ‘Let’s have the bad news first.’

‘Well,’ he began, ‘there’s only one possible place for the tent. And that’s on a load of cowshit.’

‘And the good news?’

‘It’s still warm!’