Читать книгу Tour of the Oisans: The GR54 - Kev Reynolds - Страница 9
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
What is Europe's toughest trek?
The general consensus of opinion usually names the GR20 high-level route across Corsica as the toughest of the Grande Randonnées, but with some justification the Pyrenean Haute Route – which teeters along the frontiers of France and Spain – gathers a lot of votes. Both are long and demanding, have sections without proper paths, and journey through remote country, often far from habitation. Yet there's another long and challenging route that is also a contender for the title of Europe's toughest trek. In places its route may not be quite as remote, nor its reputation as well known as those of the Corsican or Pyrenean treks, but it is undoubtedly tough and visually inspiring, with rewards aplenty for those who accept its challenge.
What is this route?
The Tour of the Oisans, also known as GR54.
Making a 10–13 day circuit of the Massif des Écrins (another name for the Oisans region) in the French Alps southeast of Grenoble, the Tour of the Oisans is similar in distance, and in the amount of time required to walk it, as the classic Tour of Mont Blanc. But there the similarity ends.
Vauban once described the region as having ‘mountains reaching for the sky, and valleys sinking to incredible depths’. This is precisely the country over which the Tour of the Oisans covers a distance of about 176km (109 miles), crosses 14 passes, and ascends a total of some 12,830m (42,063ft) in a little under a fortnight's holiday. These are bald statistics, of course, and mean little until they are translated into the physical reality of walking the route. This reality may come as a surprise to those who have not previously experienced other Alpine routes. Even among mountains as high and rugged as those of the Massif des Écrins, tackling a long walk – or trek – would not normally imply that the act of scrambling was involved, yet several stages of the Oisans trek cross unprotected rocky sections, or follow narrow, exposed trails (some little more than ledges or grooves in the rock) safeguarded by fixed cable. Others slant across steep slopes of shale and grit where a slip could have serious consequences. And some of the cols are so narrow that one could virtually sit astride the ridge with legs dangling on either side!
It should be obvious then, that a clear head and sure-footedness are prerequisites of all who set out on the Tour of the Oisans.
Plotted in 1963 and waymarked by 1966, the trek is scenically uplifting, for the tour has been routed around one of the highest and most dramatic massifs in the Alps. On almost every stage you gaze upon wild and rugged mountains, look down into deep valleys, stride across pastures, contemplate lakes, streams or waterfalls, and enter regions of apparent remoteness. There are villages and tiny hamlets along the way, but no real ‘resorts’ worthy of the name. Almost every stage enters one such village or hamlet where accommodation can usually be found in a simple but welcoming gîte d'étape or small hotel. But there are also mountain refuges in out-of-the-way locations that offer a dormitory bed for the night, and provide a more authentic high-mountain experience for the trekker eager to sample such delights as watching the alpenglow burnish the nearby peaks with evening gold, or wake in the morning to find the refuge inhabits a pristine world above a sea of cloud filling the lower valleys. Such experiences will count among the highlights of a tour around the Écrins mountains.
Pic de Neige Cordier, Pic d'Arsine and Pic du Dragon all rise above Col d'Arsine (Stage 3)
The Route
The traditional start and finish of the Tour of the Oisans is the little town of Bourg d'Oisans, situated about 50km southeast of Grenoble in the Vallée de la Romanche. As it is usually tackled in a clockwise direction the first two stages work a way roughly eastwards well above the Romanche to gain spectacular views across the valley to La Meije and its neighbours.
From the very start it is a challenging route, for within a few paces of the first waymark a sloping rockface has to be surmounted by a series of narrow ledges equipped with fixed cables. Above this the way climbs to a string of small hamlets, then descends into the wooded Gorge de Sarenne before beginning a long uphill trek to the Col de Sarenne at 1999m.
On the east side of the col GR54 plunges steeply into the Vallée du Ferrand, then climbs again to the romantically attractive Besse-en-Oisans, a village of mottled stone houses crowded in a hidden valley. Above Besse the route climbs to Col Nazié, continues up a grass ridge to Col Bichet at 2245m, then crosses the vast pastureland of the Plateau d'Emparis where the 2365m Col du Souchet rewards with one of the great views of the Tour of the Oisans.
There follows a long – and at times steep – descent to the little mountaineering centre of La Grave in the Vallée de la Romanche then, having followed the river towards its source, a steady southeastward climb breaks away from the Romanche to gain Col dat 2340m. Below lies the Vallée de la Guisane (which represents the eastern limit of the trek), with overnight accommodation available in either Le Casset or the township of Monêtier-les-Bains.
The picturesque Oratoire Ste Anne, high above La Grave (Stage 2)
A brief confrontation with ski pistes and cableways on the haul up to Col de l'Eychauda gives way to more sublime landscapes, and a lengthy descent to the Vallée de la Vallouise at the southeastern corner of the massif. After a night spent in Vallouise the route heads west and southwest on a tough stage that crosses Col de l'Aup Martin and Pas de la Cavale in quick succession. Both cols are in excess of 2700m and located in remote country, but next day is even tougher, with three cols to tackle, two of which (Col de la Vallette and Col de Vallonpierre) have very steep descents to negotiate.
From Pas de la Cavale, a clear view shows the Vallée de Champoléon (Stage 5)
The southernmost point of the Tour of the Oisans being turned at Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette, the day of the three cols directs the route northwestward. Col de Vallonpierre gives access to the Vallée du Valgaudemar for a brief westerly turn, before the way climbs steeply north again to Refuge des Souffles and Col de la Vaurze to reach tiny Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey. This is gained by a precipitous descent, the hamlet's rooftops being in view practically all the way from the pass.
From Le Désert the trend of the route continues northwards with the crossing of Col de Côte Belle leading to Valsenestre, another charming hamlet tucked between looming mountain walls.
The last part of the climb to Col de la Muzelle (2625m) on the penultimate stage can be brutal under certain conditions, but after a night spent in Refuge de la Muzelle a fairly short and undemanding ascent leads to the final pass, Col du Vallon, which carries the route over the mountains and down to the beautiful Lac Lauvitel – one of the highlights of the Tour of the Oisans. Below the lake it's just a valley walk to Bourg d'Oisans and the end of the trek.
All the above follows the ‘official’ GR54 route of the Tour of the Oisans, but several alternative stages (variantes) exist, both official and unofficial, some of which are described as options within the main body of the text.
Roche de la Muzelle towers above both refuge and lake (Stage 9)
Suggested Itineraries
The route as described in this guide is set out in 10 stages, but that is not to suggest that this itinerary will suit everyone, so an alternative tour of 13 stages is also offered. Both these itineraries are set out below as an aid to planning. However, with a variety of accommodation being available throughout much of the route, a flexible approach is recommended to take account of current conditions. It should be feasible to create your own itinerary with the accommodation and timing information provided.
Note i Accommodation details are given within the route descriptions, along with contact telephone numbers where known, and are also listed in sequential order as Appendix A.
Note ii Please note that times given do not include rests or photographic delays, for which you should add another 25–50 percent.
A 10-day Tour
Stage 1 Bourg d'Oisans to Besse-en-Oisans via Col de Sarenne (assuming arrival the day before, and a night spent in Bourg) – 7½–8hrs
Stage 2 Besse-en-Oisans to La Grave via Cols Nazié, Bichet and du Souchet – 6–6½2hrs
Stage 3 La Grave to Monêtier-les-Bains via Col d'Arsine – 8hrs
Stage 4 Monêtier-les-Bains to Vallouise via Col de l'Eychauda – 6½–7hrs
Stage 5 Vallouise to Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette via Col de l'Aup Martin and Pas de la Cavale – 8½–9hrs
Stage 6 Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar via Cols de la Vallette, de Gouiran and de Vallonpierre – 8½–9hrs
Or
Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar via Vallon d'Isola and Col de Vallonpierre – 9hrs
Stage 7 La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar to Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey via Col de la Vaurze – 8hrs
Stage 8 Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey to Valsenestre via Col de Côte Belle – 4½–5hrs
Stage 9 Valsenestre to Refuge de la Muzelle via Col de la Muzelle – 5½–6hrs
Or
Valsenestre to Bourg d'Arud via Col de la Muzelle – 7½–8hrs
Stage 10 Refuge de la Muzelle to Bourg d'Oisans via Col du Vallon – 7½hrs
Or Bourg d'Arud to Bourg d'Oisans – 4hrs
Lit by the alpenglow, Le Sirac is reflected in Lac de Vallonpierre (Stage 6)
A 13-day Tour
Stage 1 Bourg d'Oisans to Clavans-le-Bas via Col de Sarenne – 6½hrs
Or
Huez to Clavans-le-Bas via Col de Sarenne – 4hrs (+ bus from Bourg d'Oisans to Huez)
Stage 2 Clavans-le-Bas to Le Chazelet via Cols Nazié, Bichet and du Souchet – 6½–7hrs
Stage 3 Le Chazelet to Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arêne – 4½hrs
Stage 4 Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arêne to Monêtier-les-Bains via Col d'Arsine – 4hrs
Stage 5 Monêtier-les-Bains to Vallouise via Col de l'Eychauda – 6½–7hrs
Stage 6 Vallouise to Refuge des Bans – 4½hrs
Stage 7 Refuge des Bans to Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette via Col de l'Aup Martin and Pas de la Cavale – 7–7½hrs
Stage 8 Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to Refuge de Vallonpierre via Cols de la Vallette, de Gouiran and de Vallonpierre – 4½–5hrs
Or
Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to Refuge de Vallonpierre via Vallon d'Isola and Col de Vallonpierre – 5½hrs
Stage 9 Refuge de Vallonpierre to Refuge des Souffles via La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar – 7½–8hrs
Stage 10 Refuge des Souffles to Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey via Col de la Vaurze – 4½hrs
Stage 11 Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey to Valsenestre via Col de Côte Belle – 4½–5hrs
Stage 12 Valsenestre to Refuge de la Muzelle via Col de la Muzelle – 5½–6hrs
Stage 13 Refuge de la Muzelle to Bourg d'Oisans via Col du Vallon – 7½hrs
Or
Refuge de la Muzelle to Bourg d'Oisans via Bourg d'Arud – 6–6½hrs
Accommodation
Accommodation is plentiful on the Tour of the Oisans, allowing a variety of other itineraries to be devised, although there are long sections of route where there's no habitation at all. There are hotels (usually ungraded, or one- or two-star), modestly priced gîtes d'étape and atmospheric mountain refuges (huts), most of the latter being situated in remote and romantic locations, which can add much to one's experience of the trek. Gîtes d'étape may be described as being on a par with private youth hostels, low-key and very relaxed, and geared to the needs of outdoor enthusiasts. The standard type of sleeping accommodation on offer – apart from in hotels – will be mixed dormitories. As meals are provided in virtually every case (on the rare occasions where this is not so, self-catering facilities are usually available), walkers can trek unencumbered by heavy rucksacks.
The Valsenestre gîte (Stage 8)
The chalet-style Refuge de la Muzelle (Stage 9)
HUT CONVENTIONS
In the region through which the Tour of the Oisans is trekked, the CAF (Club Alpin Française) – which owns most of the refuges – rules that accommodation must be booked in advance. Telephone numbers are given throughout this guide to enable you to phone ahead.
On arrival at a refuge remove boots and leave them (with your trekking poles) in the porch or boot room, and select a pair of special hut shoes or clogs usually provided – or wear your own trainers indoors.
Locate the gardien to announce your arrival, and book whatever meals are required.
When allocated bedspace go to the dormitory and make your bed, using the sheet sleeping bag carried for the occasion. Have a torch handy, as the room may not be lit when you need to go there after dark.
Snacks and drinks are normally available during the day, but meals are served at set times. Lunch food to carry with you is often available. Food should not be taken into dormitories.
It is customary to pay for all services (in cash only) the night before you leave.
Note that reductions on overnight fees are given to members of other European Alpine Clubs, and to BMC members who have purchased a reciprocal rights card.
How to Get There
By air
Air travel is notoriously vulnerable to change, so readers are advised to check the current situation either through a local travel agent, or by browsing the Internet.
Grenoble is the most convenient airport for the Oisans region, with low-price flights via Easyjet (from London Gatwick, Birmingham and Bristol), and Ryanair (from Stansted). To check the current timetables and availability visit www.easyjet.com and www.ryanair.com
Grenoble airport is just 30mins by bus from the city centre. Buses go directly to the central bus station (Gare routière), which is located next to the railway station.
By train
Modern high-speed trains offer a viable – albeit more expensive – alternative to air travel. Eurostar takes about 3hrs for the journey from London St Pancras to Paris (Gare du Nord) via the Channel Tunnel, and the TGV service connects Paris (Gare du Lyon) with Grenoble in 2hrs 55mins.
By local bus
In summer a daily, but infrequent, bus service carries passengers from Grenoble to Bourg d'Oisans in 1hr 20mins. For information visit www.transisere.fr. The bus station in Bourg is located on the northern approach, a short walk from the town centre.
When to Go
With the likelihood of snow either lying on the highest cols or on the approach to them until early summer, the Tour of the Oisans should be avoided until at least the middle of July. Even then there will be some years when late snow or ice could create serious difficulties. Anyone planning to tackle the route before the end of July might consider carrying an ice axe – and know how to use it to halt an involuntary slide.
The peak summer holiday period in France usually falls between 15 July and late August, when there will be maximum competition for accommodation. If this is the only time you can take your holiday, plan well ahead and book your accommodation in advance. Although the area attracts plenty of summer visitors, the number of walkers tackling the Tour of the Oisans does not compare with those on the Tour of Mont Blanc, but individual trails – such as those across the Plateau d'Emparis and around the Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arêne – are likely to be busy compared with some of the more remote sections of the route.
Early September often sees the most settled weather, although the effects of climate change now make predictions unreliable. September will certainly have fewer visitors and there will be long periods without any other trekkers in view. Refuges and gîtes should be much quieter, except at weekends, and a few late varieties of alpine flowers will brighten the meadows.
The Vallée du Valgaudemar lies 1500m below the Col de la Vaurze (Stage 7)
In some years an Indian summer spreads into October to bring crisp frosty nights and sharp blue-sky days. Although difficult to predict in advance, this could be a magical time to make the trek round the Oisans. However, accommodation would be a problem, for some of the valley hotels would have closed and refuge gardiens will have deserted the high places, leaving only a winter room open for visitors who would need to provide all their own food. On the other hand, most gîtes d'étape remain open for most, if not all, the year.
To summarise: the safest time (weather and accommodation-wise) to tackle the Tour of the Oisans is from mid-July to the middle of September.
Notes for Walkers
As has already been stressed, the Tour of the Oisans is tougher and more demanding than most other multi-day treks in Europe, and although it is a walk which requires no technical mountaineering skills, scrambling ability, sure-footedness and a good ‘head for heights’ (no history of vertigo) will be called for. The Massif des Écrins is one of the most challenging of Alpine environments, and no one should accept the challenge of this route lightly.
Most of the trails are clearly defined, straightforward and well maintained. But there are also numerous narrow and exposed sections on which great care should be exercised. Even the most undemanding of paths can become hazardous when transformed by rain, snowmelt or a glaze of ice, and several stages travel through rough and remote country where a minor accident could have serious consequences.
Happily, the frequency of accommodation with meals provided effectively limits the need to carry a heavy rucksack (unless you plan to camp along the way). Even so, the very first stage offers a brutal introduction to the Tour of the Oisans, so in order to gain the maximum enjoyment from the route do yourself a favour and get ‘mountain fit’ before leaving home. The most effective way of doing this is by walking uphill (as much uphill as possible), carrying a rucksack.
A warning to walkers seen near Refuge de Vallonpierre (Stage 6)
Once you've begun the trek don't be intimidated by the steepness of the way ahead, or by the perceived difficulties of the next col to be crossed. Remain alert to possible dangers, but as you do so settle into a comfortable pace and take time to soak up the views, the sounds and scents of the journey. Make your Tour of the Oisans an experience of the senses that you can recall years later. Unless the weather is threatening, or you are running short of time, allow yourself a few minutes every hour or so to sit on a rock and contemplate the peace and natural beauty that are among the gifts of this route. You'll not regret it.
Clear signing in the Vallon de Chambran (Stage 4)
Please be considerate when making a toilet stop during the day. Keep well away from water sources, burn used toilet paper, and bury faeces as effectively as possible. Remote buildings or ruins should not be used as public conveniences; they could serve as a shelter from storm for yourself and other walkers. Please leave no litter, but take packaging with you for proper disposal in a village en route.
Equipment
The choice of clothing and equipment for a trek like this can be crucial to your comfort and enjoyment. Weight will be an important factor. Carry too much and the uphills will seem longer and steeper and you will quickly tire, so think carefully and pare your load down to the very minimum. With plenty of versatile, durable lightweight equipment available (if you can afford it), there's no point in using a heavier alternative.
Unless you're camping you can dispense with a conventional sleeping bag, but a sheet sleeping bag (sleeping bag liner) should be used in gîtes and mountain refuges where blankets and pillows are provided. Silk bags are much lighter and pack smaller than the cotton variety. One complete change of clothing should suffice, for you can usually wash and dry clothes overnight, and you ought to be able to keep your rucksack weight down to around 8–10kg. (During my latest walking of the Tour of the Oisans I met Judith Armstrong who, that year, trekked almost 6500km in the Alps carrying a base load of some 5kg.)
The descent to Le Désert rewards with a view of peaks guarding the upper Valjouffrey (Stage 7)
The following list is offered as a rough guide to what you need to take. Non-essential items, which you might consider taking, include a camera (essential to some, so keep it lightweight) and a notebook and pen to record your experiences. More and more walkers opt for a GPS, so if you are one of these you will no doubt want to carry one. An altimeter could be useful. Trainers or sandals may be considered for indoor wear in hotels, gîtes and mountain refuges, and a mobile phone for emergencies – but note that it may be unusable on large sections of the route, and you may have difficulty recharging it. Many walkers like to have a paperback novel to read, although I prefer nothing to distract my attention from the 24hr, seven-days-a-week experience of the trek.
WHAT TO TAKE
Good footwear is of prime importance. Lightweight boots should fit well, be comfortable, provide sound ankle support and have thick cleated soles (Vibram or similar) with plenty of grip.
Socks – make sure they meet your needs, and change them daily to avoid discomfort.
Waterproofs are essential, not only for rain protection but also to double as windproofs. Lightweight jacket and overtrousers made from a ‘breathable’ fabric are recommended, as is a small collapsible umbrella (indispensable for those who wear glasses).
Even in midsummer wintry conditions can be experienced above 2000m on sunless or windy days, so a fleece or pile jacket ought to be included, plus a warm hat and gloves. Note that one of the simplest and most effective ways of regulating body temperature is either to put on or remove your hat and gloves.
As well as protection against wet and cold, you need to be prepared for extremes of sunshine and heat – the intensity of UV rays increases by 10 percent with every 1000m of altitude gained. A brimmed hat, high-factor suncream, lipsalve and sunglasses should therefore be taken. Wear lightweight layers that can be removed easily in hot weather.
Carry a compact first aid kit, water bottle (1 litre minimum capacity), guidebook, map, whistle, compass, and a small torch with spare bulb and battery. Also a light penknife and emergency food.
Take a lightweight towel and basic personal toiletries (plus toilet paper and lighter), and a sheet sleeping bag for use in gîtes and refuges.
Telescopic trekking poles have numerous uses, will not only aid balance on some trails or when crossing streams, but will also ease the strain on legs during the many steep descents.
Your rucksack should fit comfortably, with the waistbelt adjusted to take the weight and eliminate unnecessary movement when walking. It ought to be possible to keep the weight of your equipment down to an absolute maximum of 10kg. A waterproof cover is highly recommended, and a large polythene bag in which to pack your gear inside the rucksack will safeguard items from getting damp in the event of bad weather. A selection of plastic bags of assorted sizes will also be useful.
An ice axe should be carried if you plan to walk the Tour of the Oisans at the start of the season when snow and/or ice may be encountered.
The standard GR waymark followed throughout the trek
The X indicates that the route does not go this way
Above Bourg d'Arud, local signs have been adapted for the GR54
Recommended Map
The Carte de Randonnées hiking map, A6 Écrins, published by Rando Éditions at 1:50,000 should be more than adequate for trekkers walking the Tour of the Oisans. The standard of cartography and artistic representation are excellent, although the rate of glacial recession is a challenge for every new edition. Based on the official survey by the IGN (Institut Géographique National), the route of GR54 and its variantes are outlined in red. Refuges and most gîtes d'étape are also clearly marked, while the boundaries of the Parc National des Écrins are delineated with a bold green outline.
The map has a 2km square grid and is GPS compatible, and below the Key a number of useful telephone numbers are given – but make sure you have the latest edition, or some of these might be out of date.
Safety in the Mountains
Mountains contain a variety of objective dangers for the unwary, and the Massif des Écrins (around which the tour makes its circuit) is no exception. Without overstating the risk factor it should be borne in mind that with a number of narrow and exposed paths, as well as some extremely steep ascents and descents to negotiate, a high degree of concentration will be called for, even under good conditions. A moment's carelessness could have serious repercussions.
The following list contains commonsense suggestions based on years of experience, and is offered as a means of avoiding mishaps. With care, and attention to detail, the chances are that you'll experience nothing more distressing than a small blister.
The original Refuge de Vallonpierre (Stage 6)
SAFETY DO'S AND DON'TS
Don't attempt the Tour of the Oisans too early or too late in the year.
Ensure you are both physically and mentally prepared for the challenge.
Plan each day's stage carefully. Study the route outline, taking account of the amount of height gain and loss, and the estimated time required to reach your destination.
If you intend to stay overnight in a mountain refuge, phone ahead to book a place.
Check the weather forecast with the gîte owner or refuge gardien before setting out.
Carry a few emergency rations and a first aid kit.
Watch for signs of deteriorating weather, and never be too proud to turn back should it be safer to do so than continue in the face of an oncoming storm, or on a trail that has become unjustifiably dangerous.
If your plans change and you decide against continuing to the refuge or gîte where you are expected, telephone at the earliest opportunity to let them know.
Do not venture onto exposed ridges if a storm is imminent. In the event of being caught out by one avoid isolated trees, prominent rocks or metallic objects (temporarily discard trekking poles), and refrain from taking shelter in caves, beneath overhanging rocks or in gullies. Instead kneel or squat on your rucksack, with head down and hands on knees.
In the unhappy event of an accident, stay calm. Move yourself and, if possible, the injured person (with care not to aggravate the injury) away from any imminent danger of stonefall or avalanche, and apply immediate first aid. Keep the victim warm, using any spare clothing available. Make a written note of the precise location where the victim can be found, and either telephone for assistance using a mobile phone (if available and you can get a signal), or send for help while someone remains with the injured member – assuming, that is, you're in a party of more than two people. Should a mountain hut be nearby, seek assistance there. If valley habitation is nearer, find a telephone and dial 112 (emergency number), or contact the PGHM on 04 92 22 22 22. Should it be impossible to go for help, the international mountain distress signal (given at the front of this guide) is: six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute's pause. Repeat for as long as is necessary. The response is three signals per minute followed by a minute's pause.
Remember…
There is no free rescue service in the Alps, and the cost of an emergency could be extremely expensive. Be adequately insured, and be cautious. The addresses of several specialist insurance companies whose policies cover mountain walking/trekking will be found in Appendix B. It is advisable to leave a copy of this policy at home with a friend or family member, and take the original with you. Reduced cost (sometimes free) urgent medical treatment is available to EU citizens carrying a European health insurance card (EHIC), which replaces the old form E111. However, payment is usually required at the time of treatment, so make sure you have insurance cover. The free booklet Health Advice for Travellers, available from post offices in the UK, gives details of entitlement.
The Parc National des Écrins
A shepherd pens his sheep near Refuge de la Muzelle (Stage 9)
The Parc National des Écrins, around and through parts of which the Tour of the Oisans makes its circuit, is the largest and highest in France. As long ago as 1913 a protected zone was centred on La Bérarde at the head of the Vallée du Vénéon in the centre of the range, but it took another 60 years before the Parc National was fully established. It now covers an area of some 91,800ha, with an outer protected zone almost doubling its size to 180,000ha. The park has scores of peaks reaching over 3000m, and in the 4102m Barre des Écrin the highest summit in France outside the Mont Blanc group.
Despite global warming the region retains a surprising number of glaciers, the southernmost ice sheets of any size in the Alpine range (albeit glaciers that are shrinking at an alarming rate). And it is largely due to the powerful rivers and waterfalls flowing from them that the deep valleys and ravines have been scoured.
The main, central core of the Parc National is contained south of the Vallée de la Romanche, and west of the Vallées de la Guisane and Durance. Its southern and western boundaries are convoluted ones, squiggling along and round the flanks of valleys to avoid road penetration and the cableways of ski resorts, always seeking to protect the most dramatic and spectacular mountains. All the highest summits and most of the glaciers are found within the park, and on six of the 10 stages of the Tour of the Oisans the route passes through this central core of Parc National territory. There are, of course, rules that govern use of the park:
Dogs are not allowed, even on a lead. Respect wildlife and livestock.
Do not pick or take samples of plants, rocks, fossils or animals.
Firearms are banned, and all wildlife is protected within the national park.
Leave no litter. Keep the countryside clean.
Light no fires.
Make no unnecessary noise.
Off-site camping is restricted to an overnight pitch between 7pm and 9am, at least one hour's walk from a road or park boundary.
Motor vehicles and bicycles are allowed only on authorised roads.
Alpine Flowers and Wildlife
The vast difference in elevation between valley bed and mountain summit, ranging from 800m to 4000m, coupled with oceanic influences in the north and west, and those of the Mediterranean from the south, are part responsible for the diverse flora of the Oisans region. The fact that crystalline and metamorphic rocks (granite and gneiss) dominate in the north and west, and sedimentary rocks such as limestone, schist and clay are found in the south and east, also plays a major part in the region's rich diversity. According to national park literature some 1800 species (representing half of all French flora) have been identified, 800 of which are protected by law, while around 40 species are considered either rare or endangered, and 35 noted for being endemic to the area.
Facing page (clockwise from top left): Alpine anemone (Pulsatilla alpina); St Bruno's lily (Paradisea liliastrum); poppies in Les Gauchoirs on Stage 10; the stemless carline thistle; the great yellow gentian (Gentiana lutea); alpenroses add a vibrant splash of colour to summer hillside.
On the Col du Lautaret at 2058m the University of Grenoble has a Jardin Alpin which has a good representation of local plants, but since this col is not included in the Tour of the Oisans it might be worth mentioning a few of the alpine flowers that may be seen along the way. In the early summer, or in higher regions where the snow is melting, the tassle-headed alpine snowbell, Soldanella alpina, is one of the first to exploit the damp meadows, and is closely followed by the spring anemone, Pulsatilla vernalis and its almost purple-flowering cousin P. montana. Various gentians are seen in summer, with the great yellow variety (Gentiana lutea) growing to a metre or more in height, its clusters of flowers arranged at intervals down the stem, appearing towards the end of summer.
Boggy regions are advertised by mattresses of cottongrass. The prized edelweiss (Leontopodium alpinum) can sometimes be found in limestone areas, while the beautiful dwarf rhododendron, the alpenrose, R. ferrugineum, covers large sections of open hillside up to 3000m and flowers with a blazing hue from late June to August. Extravagant stands of the feathery asphodel, Asphodelus albus, may be found on meadows and rocky slopes between 900m and 2400m, along with the pure white St Bruno's lily, Paradisea liliastrum, to create what may appear from a distance as a carpet of snow.
Mosses, ferns and lichens add to the variety but there are, of course, many hundreds more, and anyone wishing to learn about the flora of the Alps will find several useful field guides in the bookshops of Bourg d'Oisans.
