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TREK 2

Tour of the Queyras by Alan Castle

Start/Finish	Montdauphin-Guillestre in the Durance Valley, 34km south of Briançon
Distance	186km
Grade	Moderate
Time	12 days (a shortened version of about 8 days is also easily possible)
Terrain	French and Italian Alps between Briançon and Turin
Max Altitude	2921m (3208m optional ascents)
Guidebooks	Tour of the Queyras by Alan Castle (Cicerone Press, 2009)
Accommodation	Gîtes d’étape and mountain refuges, with occasional optional hotels

Contained within a fortnight’s holiday, this tour would make a splendid introduction to the Alps – and to the joys of Alpine trekking – for the keen hillwalker. Isolated and unspoilt, villages and valleys of the Queyras region will be as memorable as peaks and passes as the route weaves a meandering course, nudging against the Italian border in the French département of Hautes-Alpes. Of the many tantalising peaks on show, spectacular Monte Viso (Monviso to the Italians) entices the trekker across the border to give an optional diversion, while several summits accessible to walkers add further excuses to stray from the basic tour. But it is the fine scenery and unique cultural heritage of this comparatively remote area that makes the Queyras truly special and worthy of its status as a Regional Nature Park, and this multi-day tour unearths its essence.

Tour of the Queyras

The view from Col de l’Eychassier

The 7 Degrés Est gîte d’étape at l’Echalp

Where to go for a first Alpine trek?

If you are unsure of your abilities you wouldn’t want to plunge in at the deep end by choosing a very demanding and exposed trail. But several areas of the Alps would fit the bill, and I always advise first-timers to look seriously at an area of the French Alps that lies adjacent to the Italian border – the Queyras. Although in sight of Monte Viso, one of the most dramatic and iconic giants of the Alps, the quiet, unassuming, seductive Queyras, despite being very popular with the French, is largely unknown to outsiders, and is one of the Alps’ best kept secrets. Sheltered to the west by the high peaks of the Écrins, it is one of the sunniest areas of the Alps, with a mass of Alpine flowers early in the season. And what a thrill it would be to explore this magical wonderland for the very first time! The Tour of the Queyras requires little or no scrambling ability, and no more exposure than might be expected on an average walk in the mountains of Britain, although some of the route is over areas of schist which can be rather loose and slippery, particularly in bad weather conditions.

Not only is the Queyras a good area for an Alpine walking novice to explore, but as there are no glaciers and most of its summits are at a relatively low altitude, it’s a great place for competent hillwalkers and non-technical peak baggers who want to climb a summit or three without the necessary climbing equipment, experience or guides.

I’ve known the Queyras for well over 20 years, visiting it many times, but rarely have I seen other British walkers, for they flock to the popular regions further north and west, and miss out on one of the true gems of the Alps. The great beauty and allure of the Queyras, the friendliness of her people, the abundance of her charming hamlets, villages, gîtes and refuges, make it an extremely special area, and I feel a deep love for this land which, as a foreigner, I am quite at a loss to explain.

I hope you will choose the Queyras for your next walking holiday, and embark on a special journey through an enchanting region, over high cols, up remote summits, through scented pine forests, along lush Alpine valleys, across high pastures and flower-strewn meadows. To see the region at its best there’s nothing to beat a refuge-to-refuge, or gîte-to-gîte, walking tour. On such an adventure you will be sleeping each night high up in the mountains, where gorgeous sunsets can be enjoyed, or in one of the many tranquil, age-old hamlets and villages in the Alpine glens of the Queyras.

The main Grande Randonnée trail here is the circular GR58, and for the most part our trek follows this, although on the first and last day we make use of the excellent GR541, which offers two alternatives to reach the high ranges of the Queyras from the deep trench of the Durance valley to the west. To visit three of the most dramatic of the nearby Italian valleys, the Tour takes a two-day excursion over the border, allowing a close-up view of the mighty Monte Viso. But there are several alternative routes to explore on the way around this spectacular region, depending on your whim, whether you want to climb a mountain peak or visit a particular gîte d’étape renowned for its cuisine and homely welcome. The Tour of the Queyras offers high-level, but generally moderate-grade mountain walking, and includes the crossing of the highest point reached on any GR trail in France. In all, 24 cols above 2000m are crossed, with options to climb up to 17 summits of varying difficulty, five of which are above the magic 3000m altitude.

The Durance Valley to Furfande

The start of the Tour is easily reached by mainline train from Nice or Marseilles on the Mediterranean, from Geneva or Lyons, or even from London via Eurostar to Paris and TGV from there. It is therefore quite feasible to reach Montdauphin-Guillestre within a day from the UK, and enjoy a night in a comfortable hotel before setting out refreshed for the mountains on the following day.

All forms of transport are left way behind on the long, slow but gradual climb out of the Durance valley, following a variant of the GR541. Those who haven’t kept in shape before the trip may realise their folly on this first day, but take heart, for with perseverance the first col of the trip will be reached. The world is different on the other side of Col de Moussière, as the scenery changes abruptly from woodland and grassy hillsides to austere rocky ridges and rough scree slopes.

The serene Lac du Lauzet is a good spot for lunch, before the short pull up to the second col of the day, the 2458m Col Saint-Antoine. The descent from here leads to the verdant summer pastures of Furfande where, at the Granges de Furfande, a number of buildings are now used as holiday homes. The trail wanders amongst these to arrive at the first mountain hut of the Tour. Refuge de Furfande is situated in a magnificent spot below the Col de Furfande, with widespread views of the surrounding high mountains. On my first visit decades ago, the hut was rather basic; all I was presented with for food were some burnt sausages, and an extremely thin mattress poked through the hard, unforgiving springs of my iron bed! But refurbishment and a greatly improved cuisine nowadays ensure a pleasant and memorable stay.

Furfande to Ceillac and on to Saint-Véran

The GR58 is encountered at Furfande, and is then followed in an anti-clockwise circuit around the region. Those who have stiffened after the exertions of the first day will be relieved to learn that the trail south to Ceillac is a relatively easy one, climbing to the lowest col of the Tour, the 2251m Col de Bramousse. But this is not tackled until the delightful hamlet of Les Escoyères, with its fine church and refreshing water fountain, is passed, and certainly not before a stop at the café-restaurant of the splendid gîte in Bramousse.

Ceillac is the first of two places where the GR58 and the GR5 meet and cross (the other being Brunissard later in our Tour), and is situated on a level plain where two valley systems merge, the Mélezet from the south and the Cristillan, a steep glacial hanging valley running east-west. During the late 20th century, the village expanded considerably to accommodate the growing ski trade, the speciality of the region being ski de fond, which uses long, narrow skis. Ceillac is the main centre for this. Despite expansion, the village retains its original character as a small farming community; there are many fine old buildings, and the 19th-century church of Saint Sébastien makes a perfect setting for the music recitals that are occasionally held there. Ceillac is a major centre for traditional and modern wood carving, and two large carved ‘carpenter’s crosses’ will be found there. A Queyras speciality, these crosses are adorned with articles relating to the life and death of Christ (carpenter’s tools, the Roman soldier’s spear and the crown of thorns).

The view from Saint-Véran

The village is a very good centre for Alpine walking, as there are no less than four high cols accessible on foot, and it is interesting to try to locate their position from the high street. Two are crossed on this Tour of the Queyras, namely Col de Bramousse and Col des Estronques. The other two, Col Fromage to the north and Col Giradin to the south, are both situated on the GR5.

The trek east to Saint-Véran offers the opportunity to climb a small peak, the 2757m Tête de Jacquette, from Col des Estronques. From the summit, sightings of some of the 3000m giants of the region will be made in clear conditions: Monte Viso (Monviso in Italian) (3841m), Visolotto (3348m) and Le Grand Queyras (3114m), all superb mountains that will be seen at closer quarters in a few days’ time. The next objective, the village of Saint-Véran, is also visible on the opposite side of the valley below.

Saint-Véran, at 2020m, has the distinction of being the highest continuously inhabited community in Europe. The population in 2000 was 271, but at its peak in the early 19th century it stood at 865 souls. The village today depends largely on tourism, and the ski trade in particular, for its survival. Nevertheless, it has resisted the more garish developments that mar so many French ski resorts, and still retains the air of a simple mountain village. Much of the building is in wood, and the houses are constructed in such a way as to avoid being in each other’s shade. This makes full use of the warmth from the sun, so important at this altitude. The church is an interesting, ornate building containing several gilded figures of the saints. Opposite the main entrance is another finely decorated ‘carpenter’s cross’.

The Queyras is well known for its sundials (cadrans solaires), several of which will be found in Saint-Véran, painted on the south-facing walls of a number of buildings. Perhaps the finest is that on the wall of the church. Notice that the time indicated is nearly always an hour or more ‘slow’. Perhaps the local time, when these sundials were painted several centuries ago, was different from modern French summer time?

Refuge Agnel and Le Pain de Sucre

The next day penetrates into the heart of the Queyras along the ‘Grand Canal’ route, which follows the course of an old, but now dry canal used in the days of copper and silver mining in the valley in earlier centuries. For the first time this Tour exceeds 3000m, if you choose to ascend Pic de Caramantran. The route also has the distinction of reaching the highest col on any standard GR trail in France, the Col de Chamoussière at 2884m, although this will be of little concern to the wayfarer, who will be far more interested in the area’s magnificent rock scenery. One of the most striking mountains in the whole region, the 3175m Tête de Toillies is on view for much of today’s ascent. This imposing Matterhorn-like peak, which sits on the Franco-Italian border, provides challenging sport for rock climbers from all over the world.

Walkers at the Col de Saint-Véran

The Grand Queyras, seen from the path between Col de Chamoussière and Col de Saint-Véran

After four days carrying a pack over steep mountain passes, it’s a good idea to give the shoulders and back a rest and have a day off in the high mountains. Refuge Agnel is perfect for such a day as it is situated at high altitude, in stunning surroundings, with some of the best peaks easily accessible, and there is a variety of walking excursions available in the area. Moreover, if not too crowded the refuge is a pleasant place to stay awhile; sunsets can be spectacular. Having a complete rest day would be pleasant enough, but for the more energetic and adventurous an ascent of Le Pain de Sucre (3208m), the French ‘Sugar Loaf’, can be made. This is the highest point reached by any of the ascents on the whole tour and, if you do it, will be the first time that you get to over 10,000ft. Although the peak appears quite formidable, under good conditions the practised hillwalker used to scrambling and a little exposure should experience few problems, provided the waymarked route is followed to the top. It’s a fairly easy, albeit steep scramble to the summit, although the inexperienced are better advised to admire the peak from afar.

Into Italy

From Refuge Agnel the border is soon reached at Col Agnel, thought by scholars to be one of the possible crossing places used by Hannibal and his elephants on their journey over the Alps into Italy. After a long descent to the south down the Vallone dell’Agnello, the route changes direction to climb, gradually at first, up the isolated and lovely Soustra valley. After a stiff climb to an Italian ridge at the Passo della Losetta, there’s an optional ascent of Pointe Joanne, another stunning high viewpoint.

The highlight of this part of the journey is the close-up view of the northwest face of Monte Viso, almost 1000m of very steep rock. This really is an impressive mountain that deserves to be better known outside the region, for it ranks amongst the most spectacular of Alpine peaks. Standing alone, wholly in Italy, it towers above all other peaks in the vicinity. Monte Viso (Monviso) is seen to best advantage from the balcony path between Passo della Losetta and Col de Valante. France is re-entered at this col, with a night spent at the Refuge Baillif-Viso, from whose balcony spectacular views of Monte Viso are again on offer. From the refuge, Italy is re-entered at Col Sellière for an excursion in the Pellice valley beneath another giant of the region, the 3166m Monte Granero.

For those with less time there’s a shorter option – wholly within France – from Refuge Agnel, via picturesque Lac Egourgéou, with an opportunity to reach the summit of Pic de Foréant, another giant of more than 3000m, much less climbed than the neighbouring Pain de Sucre, but an equally fine viewpoint. The trail leads down to the small village of l’Echalp, where the food in the Seven Degrees East gîte d’étape is to die for (be sure to ask for their blueberry pie). The Italian and French routes eventually reunite in the pretty hamlet of La Monta, from where once again there are two alternative routes, a high-level or low-level option. Those wanting a demanding high-level traverse choose the Sommet de la Lauzière route, again with peakbagging opportunities; those with scrambling ability can tackle the towering 2929m Tête du Pelvas above the Col d’Urine – yes, it means the same in French! But equally good is a gentle stroll down the attractive Guil valley from La Monta via the village of Ristolas to the veritable metropolis of Abriès.

Abriès via Malrif and Souliers back to the Durance Valley

The Tour continually offers alternative routes, and it is often difficult to choose as most are so delectable. Another major decision has to be made on leaving Abriès. Either take the direct standard route via Lac de Grand Laus, a high Alpine lake hemmed in by an impressive cirque of mountains, or the longer and more demanding variant via Col de Thures and Col de Rasis, the latter at 2921m being the highest col on the entire Tour, less than 80m below the magic 3000m mark. Both routes come together at Pic du Malrif, the highlight of the day’s itinerary, a fine perch from which to admire the snow-capped giants of the Écrins National Park to the west: Mont Pelvoux, Barre des Écrins and La Meije. There’s only one place to spend the night, the gîte d’étape in the upland summer pasture of Les Fonts de Cervières. But if the Ritz itself were on offer, it could not compare with this engaging hamlet; and the food … oh, the food!

Strong walkers could manage the next stage to Brunissard in one long day, but to do so would rather miss the point of the Tour of the Queyras, which is the opportunity to explore the many side valleys and peaks of this delightful region. Instead, the stage can easily be broken at Souliers, where another feast awaits the guest at the village gîte, after which a day can be enjoyed picnicking at the picturesque Lac de Souliers. From here peak-baggers have the opportunity to climb Pic Quest, from whose 2844m summit the magnificence of the view is almost beyond description.

A penultimate day completes the circuit of GR58 for a second night back at the Refuge de Furfande, where your last night in the mountains will be a time of reflection, reliving the joys of the Queyras and, if you lucky enough, enjoying one of the magnificent sunsets that delight so many visitors to this region. The next day you bid a fond farewell to the mountains on the mainly descending trail of the standard route of GR541, back to the Durance valley, no doubt with a strong resolve to return one day. Those wanting to climb one last peak can do so by making the ascent of Garnier, above the col of the same name … but take care!

Before returning home, be sure to allow time to visit nearby Briançon, at 1290m the highest city of its size in all France, an ancient settlement with a rich and varied history, and a good place to buy souvenirs and presents.

By now you will realize that the Queyras is a land of superlatives. Its popularity among French walkers and those from several other European countries, notably the Netherlands and Germany, has increased considerably since the 1980s, and facilities to accommodate them have improved in terms of enlarged and upgraded gîtes d’étape and refuges. There is now also a well-established, inexpensive ‘sherpa’ service to transport luggage (and even weary walkers) from gîte to gîte. But, judging by the entries in the hut and gîte books, relatively few of my fellow countrymen have discovered the area. While it is the responsibility of a guidebook writer to ensure that his work does not result in a mass assault on a previously unspoilt area that will change its character forever, the Queyras could well cope with a doubling, trebling or even quadrupling of the number of British walkers to its high mountains and valleys. Eager to share this wonderland with other Brits, and perhaps tired of giving gentle encouragement to visit the region, I now want to shout from the highest summits: ‘Go, go, go to the Queyras!’ You will not be disappointed, and perhaps just a few of you will fall deeply and everlastingly under the spell of this remarkable and enchanted land.

Trekkers on GR58 about an hour out of Abriès