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ОглавлениеIf you are fortunate enough to have any original factory documents with your car you are in the minority. If a car has even one of these documents it raises the desirability and even the value of the car. Only a very small percentage of 1966–1970 Plymouth and Dodge B-Bodies are lucky enough to have some of these documents and even fewer have all of these important papers.
The broadcast sheet, Certicard, window sticker, dealer invoice, owner’s manual, warranty manual, and original receipts are all forms of documentation for these classic cars. Their importance cannot be underestimated when establishing the pedigree and history of your car.
This original fender tag is from a Butterscotch 1969½ 440 6-barrel Plymouth Road Runner. (To the right is the factory tuning decal.)
Always inquire about the original paperwork before purchasing your dream machine. When your car left the dealership the original owner probably had a packet of original paperwork. How many of these documents survived over the years varies. This chapter helps you understand and decode these documents.
The broadcast sheet, or build sheet, can be the most important document for your car. The data listed on these sheets is very similar. Every part used to manufacture the car is on the broadcast sheet. The fender tag has some of the options listed depending on the plant that built your car, but without the original broadcast sheet many options cannot be proven to be original.
Assembly line workers used these sheets to determine which parts to install on a specific car. Build sheets changed from year to year and have minor and even major differences in appearance. Make sure you are referencing the correct codes for your car’s specific year. The codes could indicate different parts in different years.
This particular example of a Chrysler broadcast sheet is from a 1969 Dodge Charger R/T equipped with a RB 440, assembled at the main Dodge facility in Hamtramck, Michigan. Locating a broadcast sheet can be a major windfall to unearthing the pedigree of an otherwise unknown or unidentified project car.
Every option is listed on this sheet. The codes under each option tells everything about the car and needs to be examined. You can find lists of these codes in the widely known “White Books” produced by Galen Govier, which can be purchased at a variety of places, including eBay and Mopar shows. Even the earliest assembly lines used a build sheet to assemble each car. They were not left in the cars until somewhere around the late 1950s or early 1960s. The line workers placed these sheets in the car in various locations. The first place to look for your broadcast sheet is under the backseat tucked into the springs. In Mopars they can also be found in the springs of any front or rear seat back or seat bottom, under the carpet, in the headliner, taped to the top of the glove box, and sometimes taped to the top of the heater core.
Many cars left the factory without a broadcast sheet and others might have left with a build sheet from another car. Some cars even have more than one broadcast sheet. Numerous other explanations can be made as to why your car doesn’t have a broadcast sheet. Someone may have found it and discarded it years ago when no one really cared about these sheets. A previous owner may have removed the sheet for safe keeping and then lost it. Mice love to eat these sheets and owners have often found a nest made of a pile of little numbers on pieces of paper.
All is not lost, however, if you do not have the original broadcast sheet for your car. You may be tempted to have one made from someone who reproduces these sheets. We strongly recommend you do not do this because no matter how good it may look, it is still only a copy. Fake broadcast sheets, Certicards, and fender tags lead to doubt and suspicion, and devalue your car.
Another important part of your car’s documentation is whether or not it has the original Certicard. These cards were issued on the Plymouth and Dodge B-Bodies only during the years 1965–1968. The Certicard, or as other manufacturers called it, a warrantee card, had the VIN, select option codes, the owner’s specific information, and date of delivery of the vehicle to the dealer. The dealer used this card to help identify the car when it came in for service. They were easily lost and very few cars actually have their original card.
The Certicard came in different forms over these short four years. It evolved from being a plastic card in the glove box, to an aluminum card stored in the engine compartment in a black plastic holder, to a pocket in the back of the owner’s manual for 1968 models. In 1969 this information was hand written in the owner’s manual by the dealer.
As you can imagine a loose card that was mounted in the hot engine compartment in a plastic holder and finally in the glove in the owner’s manual didn’t last very long. You are very fortunate if this card comes with your car.
These re-creations of original Chrysler window stickers can be made using your vehicle’s original information. A reasonable facsimile is easily fabricated using Chrysler archives and the data provided by your B-Body’s VIN and Certicard.
Window Sticker or Dealer Invoice
In 1959 a window sticker was required by law to be prominently displayed in the car’s window for the customer to see. This sticker included information about the dealership and prices of the base model equipment and options. It also included the very important Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price. Even today when a potential customer walks into a new-car showroom, the first thing they look for is the window sticker.
Information Sources
The Marti Report, a document that Marti Auto Works produced for collectible cars, provides almost all the details for a Ford, Mercury, or Lincoln car. General Motors owners also find information about the details of their cars from various groups, including the manufacturer.
If your Mopar is 1967 or older, you can request the build record from Chrysler at Chrysler Historical Collection, 12501 Chrysler Frwy., CIMS 41-011-21, Detroit, MI 48288 (Fax 313-252-2928), chryslerheritage.com.
Unfortunately all these records were lost for 1968–1970 Plymouths and Dodge B-Bodies.
If you are interested in learning more about decoding your broadcast sheet, several websites go into greater detail about this important document: mopar1.us/build.html, moparland.tripod.com/id63.html, mymopar.com, mmcdetroit.com.
Your vehicle’s VIN tag should also coincide with your broadcast sheet, and several other locations throughout your Chrysler. Shown is the VIN from a 1969 Plymouth Road Runner convertible 383 car.
The window sticker is often lost. Even if the original owner received the window sticker with the car, often it was lost or discarded as the car changed owners. You can have a window sticker created for your car, but again, it can be spotted as a reproduction.
If you are fortunate enough to have the original dealer invoice for your car you can learn important dealer information from it.
Fender Tag Decoding
1966 Models: The fender tags for 1962–1966 B-Bodies are laid out in a linear, easy-to-read fashion. The scheduled build date is found below left of the “SO Number.” The number under “BDY” marks the chassis designation, which happens to be the same as the first three letters of the VIN. The number below “TRM” is the interior trim code. The exterior trim codes are found under “PNT.” Some examples may have these numbers transposed.
The uppercase letters (fourth line from the bottom) are the option categories; a number under any of these letters designates an option in that letter’s category. The row of lowercase letters at the top of the tag is another row of option categories. A number below any of these letters represents an option in that letter’s category.
1967–1968 Models: For 1967 and 1968 the fender tag arrangement was modified, with the bottom three lines changed. The bottom left began with two letters and two numbers identifying the car line and model, the same as the first four characters in the VIN. Following these is a two-digit engine code, a one-digit transmission code, and a three-digit tire code. Next is a three-digit build date and order number. The third line from the bottom, numbers 1 through 8, denote categories. To the right is an “AX” or axle designation, with “TRM” and “PNT” marking interior trim and exterior colors, respectively. Continuing, the letters “UBS” stand for upper interior door color, buffed paint, and stripe or accent color. Option categories are listed on the fifth row and the top of the tag.
1969–1974 (except Lynch Road Plant): The fender tags were restyled for 1969 and survived this way until 1974 (that is for all cars not produced in the Lynch Road Plant). The bottom line, at the left, is a three-digit code for the engine and a three-digit code for the transmission followed by the VIN. The second line starts with a two- or three-digit paint code and three- or four-digit interior upper door color or type code (two for 1969, three for 1970 and later). A three-digit build date and vehicle order number follows. All codes above these are order option codes. Characters “END,” “EN1,” or “EN2” appear if the code listing ends, and if the factory ran out of room on the tag, a “CTD” may appear, noting that a second fender tag may appear.
1969–1970 Lynch Road Plant: During production at the Lynch Road Plant in 1969, fender tags were unlike other tags. The bottom row begins with a four-digit car line and model code (same as the four digits in the VIN), followed by a three-digit engine code, a two-digit transmission code, a three-digit build date, and a vehicle order number. The second line starts with the exterior color (two-digit code), a three-digit interior code, and a two-character upper interior door color code. Above these are usually abbreviated actual option codes. Lynch Road tags typically list very few options regardless of how heavily optioned the car was.
After some practice you can look at a fender tag and decode the whole car in a couple of seconds. This car was delivered in Q5 Seafoam Turquoise Metallic with the A14 Plymouth Spring Special. The V21 Performance Hood paint and V6R Red Longitude Stripe were standard in the Plymouth Spring Special package. (Michelle Kiffmeyer Photo)
Many ads state: “This car is numbers matching.” Just what exactly does that mean and why is it so important? Opinions vary regarding how much of the car has to be original to make it “numbers matching.” When a car comes off the assembly line it is truly numbers matching. Or is it really? Chrysler, especially, built these cars with many parts that do not fall into logical expected date ranges or correct part numbers.
There is always room for “exceptions to the rule,” but, to be accepted, these exceptions must be documented and proven. The majority of the cars came with all of their numbers matching. That includes VIN, data plate, build sheet, Monroney label (window sticker), date codes, part numbers, bolt markings, correct finishes, and plating. The closer a car is to having all of its “original” as-delivered parts, the more valuable it is. That is why an original 5,600-mile 1969½ Super Bee is worth something in the six-figure range.
The title of the car includes the complete VIN, and must match the car you are purchasing. It is attached with two special black rosette rivets. These rivets are available today if you need replacements. The dry Chrysler corporation logo found on the plate is also available.
It is a federal offense to transfer the VIN from one car to another, so don’t do it. Some say that it is an offense to remove the plate from the dash for restoration purposes.
Decoding a VIN plate
One of the most common questions is “How do I decode my VIN?” It’s actually very simple to do. You only have two versions to consider: 1966–1967 and 1968–1974.
1966–1967 Mopar VINs
1st Digit: Car Make
B = Barracuda (1967)
L = Dart
R = Belvedere/Satellite
V = Valiant
W = Coronet
X = Charger
2nd Digit: Series
E = Belvedere Fleet, Coronet Fleet
L = Valiant 100, Dart 170, Belvedere I, Coronet Deluxe
H = Valiant 200 (1966), Valiant Signet, Dart 270, Belvedere II, Coronet 440, Barracuda (1967)
K = Belvedere Police, Coronet Police Belvedere II Super Stock (1967), Coronet 440 Super Stock (1967)
P = Barracuda (1966), Dart GT, Satellite, Coronet 500, Charger
S = Belvedere GTX (1967), Coronet R/T (1967)
T = Belvedere Taxi, Coronet Taxi
3rd and 4th Digits: Body Style
21 = 2-door sedan
23 = 2-door coupe
27 = 2-door convertible
29 = 2-door sports coupe
41 = 4-door sedan
45 = 4-door station wagon (6-passenger)
46 = 4-door station wagon (9-passenger)
5th Digit: Engine
A = 170-ci 101-hp (1966), or 115-hp (1967) 1-barrel slant-6
B = 225-ci 145-hp 1-barrel slant-6
C = Special order slant-6
D = 273-ci 180-hp (19xx) 2-barrel V-8
D = 273-ci 235-hp or 275-hp (1966) 4-barrel V-8
E = 273-ci 235-hp 4-barrel V-8 (1967)
E = 318-ci 230-hp 2-barrel V-8 (1966)
F = 318-ci 230-hp 2-barrel V-8 (1967)
F = 361-ci 265-hp 2-barrel V-8 (1966)
G = 383-ci 270-hp 2-barrel V-8 (1967)
G = 383-ci 325-hp 4-barrel V-8 (1966)
H = 383-ci 325-hp 4-barrel V-8 (1967)
H = 426-ci 425-hp 2 × 4-barrel V-8 Hemi (1966)
J = 426-ci 425-hp 2 × 4-barrel V-8 Hemi (1967)
L = 440-ci 375-hp 4-barrel V-8 (1967)
6th Digit: Model Year
6 = 1966
7 = 1967
7th Digit: Assembly Plant
1 = Lynch Road, Detroit, Michigan
2 = Dodge Main, Hamtramck, Michigan
3 = Jefferson Avenue, Detroit, Michigan
4 = Belvidere, Illinois
5 = Los Angeles, California
6 = Newark, Deleware
7 = St. Louis, Missouri
8 = Export
9 = Windsor, Ontario, Canada
8th through 13th Digits: Sequential production number starting with 100001
1968–1974 Mopar VINs
1st Digit: Car Make
B = Barracuda
J = Challenger
L = Dart
R = Belvedere/Satellite
V = Valiant/Duster
W = Coronet/1971–1974 Charger
X = 1966–1970 Charger
2nd Digit: Series
G = Coronet New York Taxi (1972–1974)
H = Valiant Signet (1968–1969), Barracuda (1968–1969), Barracuda ’Cuda (1969), Scamp (1971–1974), Dart 270 (1968), Dart Custom (1969–1974), Dart Swinger (1971–1974), Satellite (1968–1970), Satellite Sebring (1971–1974), Satellite Custom (1971–1974), Coronet 440 (1968–1970), Charger (1970), Charger coupe (1971–1974), Coronet Custom (1971–1974), Barracuda (1970–1974), Challenger (1970–1974), Challenger T/A (1970)
K = Belvedere Police (1968–1970), Satellite Police (1971–1974), Coronet Police (1968–1974)
L = Valiant (1968–1974), Duster (1970–1974), Dart (1968–1974), Dart Swinger (1968–1970), Dart Swinger Special (1971–1974), Demon (1971–1972), Dart Sport (1973–1974), Belvedere (1968–1970), Satellite coupe (1971–1974), Coronet (1968–1974), Charger coupe (1971–1974)
M = Dart Swinger 340 (1969–1970), Demon 340 (1971–1972), Dart Sport 340 (1973), Dart Sport 360 (1974), Road Runner (1968–1974), Road Runner Superbird (1970), Road Runner GTX (1972–1974), Coronet Super Bee (1968–1970), Charger Super Bee (1971)
N = Coronet New York Taxi (1970–1971)
O = Barracuda Super Stock (1968), Dart Super Stock (1968)
P = Valiant Brougham (1974), Dart GT (1968–1969), Dart SE (1974), Sport Satellite (1968–1970), Satellite Sebring Plus (1971–1974), Satellite Brougham (1971), Regent, Coronet 500, Charger (1968–1969), Charger 500 (1970–1971), Charger SE (1971–1974), Coronet Brougham (1971), Crestwood (1971–1974), Barracuda Gran Coupe (1970–1971)
S = Duster 340 (1970–1973), Duster 360 (1974), Dart GTS (1968–1969), Dart GSS (1968), Challenger R/T (1970), GTX (1968–1971), Coronet R/T (1968–1970), Charger R/T (1968–1971), Charger 500 (early 1969), Barracuda ’Cuda (1970–1974), Barracuda AAR ’Cuda (1970), Challenger R/T (1970–1971), Challenger Rallye (1972)
T = Belvedere Taxi (1968–1970), Satellite Taxi (1971–1974), Coronet Taxi (1968–1974)
X = Charger 500 (late 1969), Charger Daytona (1969)
3rd and 4th Digits: Body Style
21 = 2-door sedan
23 = 2-door coupe
27 = 2-door convertible
29 = 2-door sports coupe
41 = 4-door sedan
45 = 4-door station wagon (6-passenger)
46 = 4-door station wagon (9-passenger)
5th Digit: Engine
A = 170-ci 115-hp 1-barrel slant-6 (1968–1969)
B = 225-ci 145-hp 1-barrel slant-6 (1968–1969)
B = 198-ci 125-hp (1970–1971), 100-hp (1972), or 95-hp (1973–1974) 1-barrel slant-6
C = Special order slant-6 (1968–1969)
C = 225-ci 145-hp (1970–1971), 110-hp (1972), or 105-hp (1973–1974) 1-barrel slant-6
D = 273-ci 190-hp 2-barrel V-8 (1968–1969)
E = Special order slant-6 (1970–1974)
F = 318-ci 230-hp 2-barrel V-8 (1968–1969)
G = 383-ci 290-hp 2-barrel V-8 (1968–1969)
G = 318-ci 230-hp (1970–1971), 150-hp (1972–1974), 155-hp (1972), or 170-hp (1973–1974 Road Runner) 2-barrel V-8
H = 383-ci 330-hp or 335-hp 4-barrel V-8 (1968–1969)
H = 340-ci 275-hp (1970–1971) or 240-hp (1972–1973) 4-barrel V-8
J = 426-ci 425-hp 2 × 4–barrel V-8 Hemi (1968–1969)
J = 340-ci 290-hp 3 × 2–barrel V-8 (1970) (AAR & T/A)
L = 440-ci 375-hp 4-barrel V-8 (1968–1969)
L = 383-ci 290-hp (1970) or 275-hp (1971) 2-barrel V-8
L = 360-ci 200-hp or 245-hp 4-barrel V-8 (1974)
M = Special order V-8 (1968–1969)
M = 440-ci 390-hp 3 × 2–barrel V-8 (1969) (Six Pack/6-barrel)
M = 400-ci 190-hp (1972), 175-hp or 185-hp (1973) 2-barrel V-8
N = 383-ci 330-hp or 335-hp (1970) or 300-hp (1971) 4-barrel V-8
N = 400-ci 205-hp 4-barrel V-8 (1974)
P = 340-ci 275-hp 4-barrel V-8 (1968–1969)
P = 400-ci 255-hp (1972), 260-hp (1973), or 250-hp (1974) 4-barrel V-8
R = 426-ci 425-hp 2 × 4–barrel V-8 Hemi (1970–1971)
U = 440-ci 375-hp (1970), 370-hp (1971), 280-hp (1972–1973), 290-hp (1972), or 275-hp (1974) 4-barrel V-8
V = 440 3 2-barrel, 390-hp (1970), 440 3 2-barrel 385-hp (1971), or 440 3 2-barrel 330-hp (1972)
Z = Special order V-8 (1970–1974)
6th Digit: Model Year
8 = 1968
9 = 1969
0 = 1970
1 = 1971
2 = 1972
3 = 1973
4 = 1974
7th Digit: Assembly Plant
A = Lynch Road, Detroit, Michigan
B = Dodge Main, Hamtramck, Michigan
C = Jefferson Avenue, Detroit, Michigan
D = Belvidere, Ilinois
E = Los Angeles, California
F = Newark, Deleware
G = St. Louis, Missouri
H = New Stanton, Pennsylvania
P = Export
R = Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Here are the casting identifications for a particular block. The casting number is shown above, “D N” indicates whether it was cast during the day or night, and the dial indicates the hour.
The assembly pad indicates when the engine was assembled and whether it was equipped with high-performance parts.
This tag is critical in documenting a numbers-matching car. It served as production information for the assembly line and was attached on most cars before they were even painted. At most assembly plants this tag was attached to the inside driver-side fender shelf with one screw and then bent up so paint reached under the tag. It was then screwed down with the rear screw. This is the reason the front screw is painted the body color and the rear screw is natural. This factory bend as well as various punched-out inspector marks and additional stamped markings from the top down are found on original tags. There are major differences between the pre-1969 fender tags and the 1969 and 1970 tags.
The Lynch Road assembly plant fender tags included the least information and had a different layout of the codes. They are usually not painted and are natural in appearance because they hung inside the car during painting instead of being attached to the fender. Consequently, they are not bent on the corner and neither attachment screw is painted.
If a car has a very rusty fender tag you can find a company to remake the tag with enough documentation. If a car does not have a fender tag one can be re-created if you have the car’s build sheet. Without the build sheet a correct tag cannot be produced. “Fake” tags can be spotted, and a bogus tag usually makes the entire car suspect. If the tag is missing it is preferable to just leave the car without one. But a missing fender tag makes the car worth at least 25 to 40 percent less than the same car with the original tag.
On pre-1969 fender tags the VIN does not appear on the tag, but the Shipping Order (SO) number does. This number is on the body of the car instead of on the VIN such as those on the 1969–1970 cars.
The VIN is found on the dash on the driver’s side stamped into a metal plate on 1968–1970 models. For 1966–1967, the VIN is attached to the front of the doorjamb. The VIN is found on the dash of all 1966–1970 B-Bodies.
Where else are the vehicles’ VINs located? On Plymouth and Dodge B-Bodies you find them stamped in the following places: engine, transmission, radiator support, and trunk rail lip. Pre-1969 cars have a Shipping Order number instead of a VIN.
Engine and Transmission
On the 1966 and 1967 B-Bodies you don’t find VIN stamps on the engines or transmissions; only cast numbers and date codes. It is important to know the history of the car to ensure original equipment.
On 1968 cars the SO number is stamped on the top of the engine where the engine and bellhousing or transmission case meet. It is also stamped on the passenger-side pad of the transmission. These two numbers need to match because the same stamp was used on both.
On 1969 cars produced before January 1969, the entire VIN is stamped on the engine pan rail. After January 1969 and through 1970 cars, the partial VIN of the car is stamped on the engine’s pan rail on the passenger’s side of the car. It is also stamped on the passenger-side pad of the transmission. These numbers match because they were stamped at the same time with the same stamping mechanism. You can compare these numbers by taking a piece of paper and a pencil and rubbing the pencil over the paper while it is placed on top of the stamped number.
Cast date codes are also found on all transmissions and all engines on the passenger’s side of the block. You also find stamped date codes indicating the assembly date of the engine, on a machined pad, located on the front of the engine. The pad for the 440 is on the driver’s side; for the 383 it is on the passenger’s side.
Radiator Support and Trunk Rail Lip
The numbers here are of a different font than the numbers stamped on the engine and transmission. Usually stamped upside down on the radiator support you find either the SO number or the partial VIN, depending on the year of the car.
Chrysler stamped the VIN onto the radiator core support on 1969-and-later B-Bodies. This number must coincide with the in-dash VIN tag to be numbers matching.
Component Codes
Major components have date codes and are important to check before purchase. They should not be viewed as deal breakers if they are missing but a bonus if present and functional.
• Rear axle
• Radiator
• Wiper motor
• Glass
• Wheels
• Seat belts
• Jack
• Horn
• Alternator
• Carburetor
• Torsion bars
• Lower control arms
• Exhaust manifolds
• Hoses
• Fuel pump
• Starter
• Coil
• Relays
• Motor mounts
• Brake parts
• Headlights
• Power steering pump and cooler
• U joint clamps
Several types of date-code markings were used on most parts. For example, 509 stands for May 9 and B23 stands for November 23. Here is a breakdown of the month codes.
1 = January
2 = February
3 = March
4 = April
5 = May
6 = June
7 = July
8 = August
9 = September
A = October
B = November
C = December
Much detail went into the system of component coding. Here is a list of coded and dated items found on all A12-coded 1969½ Plymouth Road Runners and Dodge Super Bees.
• Alternator (PN 2642537)
• Master cylinder (PN 2808577)
• Starter relay (PN 4638260)
• Plug wires (date: H 1Q 69)
• Distributor tag (PN 2875982 IBS 4014D 7 9)
• Front carburetor (PN 3412050 R4391)
• Center carburetor (PN 3412053 R4392)
• Rear carburetor (PN 3412051 R 4394)
• Viscous drive (PN 2806070)
• Fan blade (PN 2863216)
• Coil, short (PN 2444242)
• Coil, long (PN 2444241)
• Paper tags on carbs (50 on front, 51 on rear)
• Paper tag on center carburetor (52 on driver’s side)
• Front and rear carburetors (stamped with 24 on driver’s side)
• Choke pull-down, Holley 54
• Idle stop solenoid, hex-head (PN DR1114420)
• Spark plugs (Champion J11Y)
• Oil plug, indented
• Ballast resistor (PN 2095501)
• Axle strap and stamp (build sheet 108; 999)
• Radiator (PN 054)
Federal VIN Label or Door Sticker
In 1969 only on the Charger Daytona, and in 1970 on all cars, an additional sticker that has the full VIN was attached to the driver-side door. On 1966–1967 cars a chrome plate is attached to the front driver-side door frame. These can be reproduced so check the tag for signs of wear to determine if it is original.
Numbers Matching?
Now the question is, Do you have a numbers-matching car if all of these numbers match your car’s VIN or SO number? The answer is yes! But, you must also verify that the cast and stamped date codes of each of these areas precede the build date of the car. Watch for engine and transmission pads that have grind marks different from the factory machine marks, and make sure the stamps use the correct font.
Some people say that the date codes for the rear end, radiator, wiper motor, etc. must match for the car to be “numbers matching.” It is our opinion that these other parts may be date-code correct, but could come from other cars. They did not have the vehicle’s unique identification number issued at the factory and therefore are not required to make the car “numbers matching.”
Date codes and part numbers provide an opportunity to determine just how original the car is and further establish its value. Almost every component of these cars is date coded and/or has its original part number. These date codes always precede the car’s build date and can also help when you do need to replace non-original parts during the restoration.
In the case of the engine and transmission it is normal for the casting date to precede the build date by 60 days and the assembly date by 30 days. Other parts can precede the build date by as much as six months. The major exception to this rule is with the 1969½ 6-barrel and 6-Pack Road Runners and Super Bees. They only have two build dates on their fender tags, either 3 29 or 4 26. However, these cars were built as late as July and, therefore, to the inexperienced the date codes of their parts are in fact after the build date on the tag, but still correct for that car depending on when it was actually produced.
You may know many things about a vehicle before you buy it. But you must inspect the car in person. Many cars exchange hands over the Internet and across many miles. If you cannot inspect the car in person before you buy it hire a professional to inspect it for you. If that is not financially feasible ask for as many detailed pictures as possible from the seller. Specifically request the items you want to see and focus on the numbers-matching areas first. The closer to original the car and its parts, the easier the restoration.
The word restoration is used very broadly in the classic car hobby. It means to return a car to its original condition when it left the dealer. Unfortunately, not many enthusiasts take that to heart with their project.
Variations to the original condition that are acceptable to you are usually based on finances and what you really want to do with the car to fully enjoy it. By applying the information in this chapter you know what you are buying up front, and its value, so that a fair price can be agreed upon.
