Читать книгу Journey Through the Philippines - Kiki Deere - Страница 7

INTRODUCTION

ISLANDS OF AMAZING DIVERSITY

Often underrated by travelers, the Philippines is an enticing location offering incredibly diverse landscapes. Home to bubbling volcanoes, jungle-clad peaks and some of the best diving in the world, there’s a great deal on offer to suit all tastes.

Comprising 7,107 islands, the Philippines is Asia’s second largest archipelago, after Indonesia. The diversity of the country is astonishing: from powdery white sand beaches framed by limestone formations to 2,000-year-old UNESCO-listed rice terraces, there is plenty to keep visitors occupied for months on end. Given the time involved in traveling from island to island, the best way to explore the archipelago is by air.

Most trips to the Philippines start in the chaotic capital of Manila, a major transport hub and gateway to the country’s innumerable islands. There are plenty of sights outside the city, including the gorgeous Lake Taal, a crater lake with Taal Volcano sitting right at its center. To the north of Manila is northern Luzon, home to spectacular mountain scenery and cooler climes than in the lowlands. In Banaue it is possible to trek through awe-inspiring rice terraces, while the UNESCO-listed town of Vigan offers a glimpse of life during Spanish colonial times.

Mount Mayon is one of the country’s most active volcanoes; it has erupted over 40 times.

The Philippines is one of the few countries in the world where it’s possible to swim with whale sharks.

The country’s much-loved mode of transport, jeepneys are decorated with splashes of brightly colored paint.

To the south of the capital is the Bicol region, home to the country’s best known volcano, Mount Mayon, which is said to have the world’s most symmetrical cone. The town of Donsol is one of the few places in the world where you can swim with whale sharks. Many visitors opt for the spectacular white-sand beaches and crystal-clear waters of the Visayas, at the heart of the archipelago. Boracay is probably the region’s best-known island, although there are hundreds more, providing a wealth of activities, including snorkeling and diving. The rugged island of Mindoro, just a few hours south of the capital, offers some of the country’s best diving.

A horse-drawn carriage waits for customers outside Manila’s Malate Church.

Resilient Roots

Named after King Philip II of Spain, the Philippines is the only country in Asia that was colonized by the Spanish, and is today a blend of Malay, Chinese, Spanish and American influences. The first humans are thought to have migrated from Borneo to Palawan in southwestern Philippines during the Ice Age; the Aeta, also known as Negritos, are said to have descended from these migrants. Tribal groups in the Cordilleras settled in northern Luzon around 500 BC, while Malay peoples from nearby Indonesia and Malaysia put down roots in the Visayas and southwestern Luzon. Recently discovered Chinese shipwrecks suggest that ties with China were extensive by the 10th century.

During contact with Arab traders, Sufis and missionaries came to the islands to spread Islam. Following the Spaniards’ arrival in 1521 and the subsequent establishment of the Spanish capital at Manila in 1564, friars commenced spreading Catholicism and building churches throughout the country. To this day 83 percent of Filipinos are devout Roman Catholics, and churches are found in even the remotest of villages. Islam continues to be practiced in Mindanao.

Following a number of revolts by intellectuals who sought independence from the Spanish crown, war broke out between the United States and Spain in 1898. Filipinos continued to fight for independence during the Philippine– American War (1899–1902), but the Americans retained control over the islands, and the Philippines became an American colony. As part of the Benevolent Assimilation Proclamation, the Americans built schools throughout the archipelago. The country soon had Southeast Asia’s highest literacy rates, and Filipinos learnt to behave, eat and speak like Americans. Together with Tagalog, English is today the official language of the Philippines, making it particularly easy for Westerners to communicate with the locals.

The Philippines eventually gained independence from the United States on July 4th 1946. Since then the country has been through numerous political ups and downs. The country’s most notorious politician is probably Ferdinand Marcos, who was renowned for his lavish spending and is estimated to have plundered US$10 billion from the country. Despite recent economic gains and efforts to reduce poverty, the Philippines remains one of the world’s poorest nations.

A statue of King Philip II of Spain that sits in the Plaza de España in Manila.

Buried by the eruption of Mount Mayon in 1814, the Cagsawa Ruins are today a major tourist attraction offering pretty views of the surrounding rice paddies.

The Heritage Monument of Cebu recounts the history of the island through a series of dramatic sculptures.

The Tyrant of the Pacific

Known in the Philippines as Typhoon Yolanda, Typhoon Haiyan was one of the strongest cyclones ever to hit the planet. With winds of up to 196mph (310km/h), it struck the southeastern Philippines in early November 2013, causing irreparable damage. Entire villages were wiped out in the Visayas, Negros, Cebu, Iloilo and Capiz. The city of Tacloban in Leyte was one of the worst hit. Over 6,000 people were killed, nearly 2,000 reported missing, and thousands displaced across the area. Boats and crops were destroyed. With coastal populations relying on fishing and coconuts as their primary sources of income, people were reluctant to move inland. Houses were rebuilt in the same areas using similar materials, which means coastal populations remain at risk. Aid agencies poured in to help rebuild the country, but the scars are still visible years later. International agencies and the local government continue to work across the typhoon-affected region to help build resilience against future disasters.

In November 2013 Typhoon Haiyan swept through the country, razing entire villages to the ground and killing thousands.

Relaxing in a hammock on a tropical beach is one of the highlights of any visit to the Philippines.

Sailing at sunset on Boracay Island, the country’s premier tourist destination.

The crystal clear waters of El Nido, Palawan, are fringed by limestone formations carpeted in thick vegetation.

In the far south of the country, Mindanao attracts the most avid surfers for its annual Siargao Surfing Cup, although the western side of the island remains largely off-limits due to Muslim separatist unrest.

To the west of the archipelago is Palawan, a largely wild and unspoiled island. The Bacuit archipelago comprises incredible limestone formations jutting out of crystal clear waters. The best time to visit is between November and April, during the dry season. The wet season, from May to October, brings high humidity and typhoons, with flights and ferries often canceled. In a country battered by an average of twenty typhoons a year, Filipinos have the extraordinary ability to smile and remain optimistic in the face of disaster.