Читать книгу Singapore: World City - Kim Inglis - Страница 6
ОглавлениеOpened in 1870 to commemorate Singapore’s crown colony status, the Cavenagh bridge spans the Singapore river in the downtown core.
THE SINGAPORE STORY
THE LION CITY COMES OF AGE
Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles (1781–1826) was the founder of modern-day Singapore. His statue by famed sculptor-cum-poet Thomas Woolner stands in front of the Victoria Theatre and Concert Hall. The famous Hainanese chicken rice dish. A rubber stamp for the Republic of Singapore.
For people with a limited knowledge of Singapore, it’s probably a mere dot of a rock at the southern end of the Malay Peninsula. But, for those in the know, it is so much more: a 700-square kilometre city-state on a tropical island; a teeming metropolis whose powerful skyline is fringed by fecund equatorial vegetation; an intriguing mix of Chinese, Indian, Malay and European inhabitants; few natural resources, but healthy GDP figures and a standard of living that most nations only dream of.
The story of how Singapore was founded in 1819, prospered under colonial rule, then unburdened itself from its colonial yoke in 1965 and single-handedly transformed its society from third world to first world in less than a couple of decades should be the stuff of legends—except it happens to be true. Certainly Sir Stamford Raffles recognized its potential when he established a British port on what was a largely uninhabited island: he saw it possessed a deep natural harbour, fresh water supplies, plentiful timber for repairing ships, and, being close to the Straits of Malacca, would serve to challenge the Dutch who were dominating the lucrative China to British India trade route at the time.
Over the next few decades, his instincts proved correct. Establishing Singapore as a free port, instigating sensible town planning, and encouraging immigration via low taxation and little restriction resulted in a thriving port city that came to dominate the region. Its status was sealed when it became a Crown Colony on 1 April 1867. Before Raffles arrived there were about 1,000 people—mostly Malays and a few Chinese—living on the island; by 1869, the population had risen to 100,000, consisting mainly of Chinese and Indian immigrants. Their descendents came to form the bulk of the new Singaporeans.
Naturally, this burgeoning population had to be housed, and Raffles’ Town Plan—which formed much of the island’s early infrastructure—is still in evidence today. Around a colonial core housing financial, administrative and commercial buildings, grew a number of different districts divided into ethnic neighbourhoods, many of which remain. As the colony grew, so did its built environment: plantations were eaten up by residential estates and business premises spread far inland, although large swathes of jungle were left untouched.
The next 100 years of Singapore’s development saw more radical change: Even though World War I did not really affect Singapore, World War II saw the colony capitulate to the Japanese. Between 1942 and 1945, it was occupied by the Japanese Empire, only to emerge afterwards with increasing levels of self-government, a merger with the Federation of Malaya in 1963, and eventual independence two years later. On the morning of the 9th of August 1965, Singapore was established as an independent and sovereign republic.
The old and the new: Rows of terracotta tiled shophouse roofs in Chinatown are set against a backdrop of skyscrapers in the Financial District.
The Supertree Grove at Gardens by the Bay rises from a sea of green below. Ranging in height from 25 to 50 metres, they provide shade and work as environmental engines for the gardens.
View of the Fullerton Hotel, housed in the old General Post Office building (1924–28), framed through the Anderson bridge (1910).
Five blocks of restored warehouses on the Singapore river house the various restaurants and nightclubs of Clarke Quay. Two moored Chinese junks (tongkangs) have been refurbished into floating pubs and restaurants.
Double Happiness lanterns hang in front of colourful shophouse shutters.
Detail from the gopuram or entrance tower of the Sri Mariamman temple featuring elaborate plaster sculptures.
The Financial District’s gleaming towers form the backdrop to this photo of the Singapore river with the Elgin bridge (1929) in the foreground. Named after Lord Elgin, Governor-General of India (21 March 1862 to 20 November 1863), it was the first vehicular bridge to cross the river.
Since then, a combination of single-minded determination on the part of the government and, more recently, levels of energy and creativity in the nascent Singaporean population have truly transformed the tiny city-state into a global power to be reckoned with. Two bodies—the Economic Development Board and the Housing Development Board—have spearheaded both economic growth and higher standards of living, all the while trying to maintain a balance between cultural and physical heritage and the demands of a growing nation.
Mistakes have been made, the authorities have been accused of high handedness on more than one occasion, and there are always certain grumblings and mumblings to be had. Yet, nobody can deny the fact that Singapore has risen to meet its challenges head on and today stands proud as South East Asia’s most livable and most beautiful city.
Recent years have seen a huge makeover of the Central Business District and the creation of a truly eye-catching downtown area at Marina Bay. Old shophouses and colonial buildings are finding new life as fashion-forward galleries, museums and hotels, while glass-and-steel skyscrapers punctuate an already impressive skyline. In line with the government’s vision of creating a "City in a Garden", 101 hectares of prime reclaimed land have been transformed into a futuristic public garden (see previous page), aptly showcasing Singapore’s ability to transform itself into Asia’s premier tropical Garden City.
Today, there’s no denying that both the public and private sectors have finally come of age—the city-state is the envy of the region and the world. And, as with all works in progress, while balancing the past with the present, Singapore continues to look towards the future.
Transport and trade: A 1980s photograph of the Singapore river showing hundreds of bumboats moored at Boat Quay on right.
SINGAPORE INC
THE BUSINESS OF GOVERNMENT
A dignified sign outside Singapore’s new Parliament building. The red-and-white national flag features a white crescent moon facing a pentagon of five small white five-pointed stars. Gleaming office towers in the Financial District.
Despite its tiny size and limited resources, since Independence in 1965 Singapore has developed into a highly successful economy with one of the highest per-capita GDPs in the world. Undoubtedly this has been in large part because of extensive government planning and intervention, initially under the leadership of Lee Kuan Yew, then his deputy Goh Chok Tong and more recently under Lee’s eldest son Lee Hsien Loong. All three have been or are leaders of the People’s Action Party (PAP), Singapore’s premier political party.
Since the early days after independence from British rule, the Singapore government has combined Economic Development Board planning with free-market policies all the while attracting foreign investment. For example, the country’s sovereign wealth fund Temasek Holdings is a major investor in some of Singapore’s largest companies, such as Singapore Airlines, SingTel and MediaCorp, yet many other smaller companies have been encouraged to thrive in what is effectively a free-market economy. This middle way between government control and swashbuckling entrepreneurialism termed the "Singapore Model" has been much lauded by economists as a viable route towards stability and growth.
Singapore’s traditional portfolio of shipping, petro-chemical, electronic and chemical industries is supported by its strategic port which allows it to purchase raw materials such as oil, gas and water and refine them for re-export. Since 2010, its two casinos have substantially added to the country’s revenues, allowing Singapore to buy natural resources and goods that it does not have or does not manufacture. Furthermore, always looking to the future, the government has more recently embarked on investments in biotechnology, financial services, the opening and running of higher education institutions, and medical tourism.
The "Singapore Model" with its Confucian ideals that value traditional hierarchies and social order above individual hopes and desires has produced a diligent population that has, for the most part, benefitted from this social and economic stability. Most have high levels of savings in the government’s mandatory Central Provident Fund that is both a money maker and a source of funds for the population’s healthcare and retirement needs. Interestingly enough, the CPF was initiated in 1955 by the colonial government, but was continued after independence.
Skyscrapers in the Financial District: In 2008, the government announced plans to add 85 hectares of offices in the Marina Bay area; on completion it will be more than twice the size of London’s Canary Wharf.
Singapore’s President Yushof bin Ishak receives the salute during the ceremonial march along the padang on the occasion of Singapore’s first Independence day celebration on 9 August 1966.
LEE KUAN YEW:
SINGAPORE’S FOUNDING FATHER
No book on Singapore would be complete without more than one mention of Lee Kuan Yew, Singapore’s first prime minister and the man credited with directing the country from Independence to developed nation status. Born on 16 September 1923 as a third-generation Straits-born Chinese, Lee excelled early, winning a scholarship to Cambridge University and graduating with a first class honours degree in law in 1949. In 1954 Lee helped co-found the People’s Action Party (PAP), shrewdly representing its more moderate faction, all the while negotiating to extract Singapore from its colonial masters, then later vying for power within the Federation of Malaya. After Independence, he became the Republic of Singapore’s first prime minister, a post he retained for 31 years.
Whatever one may think of his autocratic style, Lee should be credited in large part for transforming Singapore from a tiny third-world island with a disparate and unruly population into a shining model of efficiency and prosperity. It was his personal vision that guided this extraordinary journey: early infrastructure projects, the attraction of foreign investment, rapid industrialization and the development of an English-language education system all garnered quick results. These were further consolidated with more infrastructure, defense, health, education, pension and housing schemes, as well as urban regeneration programmes and home-ownership plans.
After resigning in 1990, Lee has held two advisory roles, first as Senior Minister, then as Minister Mentor: Frequently sought after for opinions and guidance, despite frail health, he remains very much involved in government policy.
In recent years, as the population has grown and expanded, the PAP has faced some criticism for its rigid, paternalistic style despite the fact that Singapore is a stable, pro-business, relatively corruption-free city-state. Some argue that the government is too focused on economic growth and has hindered individuality, artistic prowess and personal freedoms. In response to this, there has been a gradual loosening of this control, with the PAP turning its attention to its education system and the arts, entertainment and tourism sectors, all the while still continuing to bolster the economy. As a result, Singapore seems more relaxed than it was a couple of decades ago: Art, architecture and design, for example, are thriving as never before.
This does not mean to say that the country has changed direction. There is still little political opposition, a type of self-censorship exists within the press, and the government has broad powers to limit citizens’ rights. For example, the Public Order Act of 2009 prohibits outdoor public processions or assemblies without police permits. Nevertheless, even as some parts of the population become ever more vocal as the nation matures, the majority continue to be incredibly hard-working, with many putting in long hours in the office all the while valuing family and tradition above all.
Certainly, when one compares standards of living in Singapore with those of its neighbours, the country scores highly. Crime is low, stability is high, and the population is friendly, well-educated and secure. This, no doubt, is due in large part to government policies, as well as to Singaporeans’ hard work and commitment to law and order.
SINGAPORE’S PARLIAMENT
As with many former British colonies, Singapore adopted Britain’s Westminster parliamentary model upon Independence. The country is a democratic republic with the President of Singapore being the head of state, the Prime Minister of Singapore being the head of government, and executive power exercised by the cabinet. The parliament consists of a single chamber, currently composed of 87 elected seats.
Even though Singapore is supposed to be a multi-party state, the People’s Action Party (PAP) has won every general election since independence. Its actions in suppressing opposition, especially in the first two decades after Independence, have led many (both within and without the country) to argue that Singapore is a de-facto one-party state. Be that as it may, the system operates with a governing party and an opposition (which usually wins two to four seats).
Firstly housed in a dignified Victorian building that was originally a merchant’s private home (now an arts centre known as Old Parliament House), the government moved round the corner to New Parliament House in 1999. Designed and built by architects from the former Public Works Department, it sports three new buildings with a sober, grey-toned colonnaded façade and one restored colonial building. Situated adjacent the Singapore river, it blends harmoniously with the civic quarter architecture that surrounds it.
The country’s National Day is celebrated each year on 9th August, in commemoration of Singapore’s independence from Malaysia in 1965. Typically there is a parade, a fireworks display and more. Here flag-waving schoolchildren, dressed in patriotic red and white, show support for their country.
SINGAPOREANS
A MULTI-ETHNIC, MULTI-CULTURAL RAINBOW
The Chinese, Indians and Malays comprise the majority of Singapore’s multi-ethnic population.
Sitting in a physiotherapist’s waiting room a few years ago, I was intrigued by a conversation between a client and the receptionist. The latter, sporting a nametag, was being quizzed by the client as to which part of Sri Lanka she came from. "I am not Sri Lankan," came the reply, "I am Singaporean." Undaunted, the client continued, "But your name ... it is a Sri Lankan name." "Regardless, I am Singaporean," came the reply.
This line of questioning went back and forth a few more times, with the client adamant she was of Sri Lankan origin and the receptionist sticking to her story: whatever her name, she was a Singaporean—and proud of it. At no point did she concede that her parents or grandparents or great-grandparents had emigrated from Sri Lanka, nor that she had South Asian roots. As far as she was concerned, she was from Singapore.
It’s a telling encounter, because it encapsulates much about the average Singaporean: he or she is an immigrant or comes from immigrant stock; her ethnicity may be different to her neighbour’s; he could be a Christian, she an agnostic; his skin colour, his background, his family ... all may be the opposite of his wife’s. Yet, where they are all united is in their nationality.
Certainly, in the early days of colonization, an abundance of merchants and migrants were attracted to the new outpost as business and commerce flourished. Most came from the southern provinces of China, Indonesia, the Indian subcontinent and the Middle East—all looking for the prospect of a better life. Many would have intended returning to their native countries, but life, wealth, new roots and inter-marriage resulted in a large proportion of them remaining. Today’s population, descended from this early mix, is a melting pot of complementary ethnic groups, roughly consisting of 77 percent Chinese, 14 percent Malay, 8 percent Indians and 1 percent Eurasians, plus a sprinkling of people of other descent.
As such, Singapore makes for an exciting multi-racial, multi-religious, multi-ethnic mix. At school, every child is required to repeat the National Pledge daily: "We, the citizens of Singapore, pledge ourselves as one united people, regardless of race, language or religion, to build a democratic society based on justice and equality so as to achieve happiness, prosperity and progress for our nation." Written shortly after the nation’s independence by one of the pioneer leaders of independent Singapore, Sinnathamby Rajaratnam, who saw language, race and religion as divisive factors, it emphasized that these differences can be overcome if Singaporeans care enough about their country.
There’s no doubt that this attitude has been embraced by the populace at large: Singapore is a rare example of a multi-cultural society with remarkable tolerance for racial and religious differences. As one leader noted: "One is first and foremost a Singaporean, then a Chinese, Malay, Indian, or other."
THE ARTS SCENE
A GREAT LEAP FORWARD IN MUSIC, THEATRE, DANCE AND THE VISUAL ARTS
The futuristic outline of the Moshe Safdie designed ArtScience Museum on Marina Bay. Durian dome at the Esplanade complex. The white facade of the neo-Classical National Museum with Corinthian columns.
Recent investment in the Arts in the form of new galleries, venues and arts-related events has seen a huge leap forward in Singapore’s arts scene. On any given day or night, there is always something new to watch, listen to, or visit. Be it a concert in the stunning double-domed Esplanade or colonial Victoria Concert Hall, a historical talk at the National Archives, a rock concert in one of the city parks, or a specialist arts fair, the events calendar is action-packed. Both local and foreign attractions proliferate throughout the year.
The National Arts Council, charged with overseeing art appreciation in Singapore, organizes free concerts in lush park surrounds year round, while other annual fixtures include the Singapore Arts Fair (four weeks in May and June), running the gamut from theatre through dance and film to concerts, and the Fringe Festival in January that concentrates on theatre, dance and the visual arts. Two annual art fairs—Art Stage and the Affordable Art Fair—attract crowds, while other annual events include the world music festival WOMAD, Ballet under the Stars, the International Comedy Festival and more.
On any given night, you can easily choose from a wide variety of genres—Chinese opera, Indian dance, Western stand-up comedy, a world-class Shakespeare production, for example. Theatre is particularly strong, with a plethora of local companies staging productions, often by local playwrights with surprising social commentary, complemented by large Western touring musicals and shows. Of particular note is the W!LD RICE company that creates what it calls "glocal" works inspired by both Singaporean society and universal issues and the Singapore Repertory Theatre, more associated with Broadway-style productions. Dance is represented by over 30 dance companies and societies, with the Singapore Dance Theatre staging about 28 performances each year, and a number of smaller companies specializing in ethnic dance—South East Asian, Indian and the like. Classical music is represented by the superb Singapore Symphony Orchestra; set up in 1979, it plays about 100 concerts at the Esplanade annually.
Art and architecture is indelibly linked, as evidenced by the intriguing mix of public sculptures found along the river, the world-class Esplanade complex with its durian domes, and the many colonial buildings that have found new life as venues for the arts. The Arts House at the Old Parliament is a particular case in point, as is the Singapore Art Museum (SAM) housed in a graceful 19th-century former school building. Similarly, many museums—in former classical civic buildings, Chinese shophouses or old fortifications—showcase not only exhibits relating to Singapore and South East Asia, but the actual architecture and interiors themselves.
The rotunda dome at the National Museum is fitted with stained glass panels that were fully restored in 2005.
"The Dancing Sky", a stunning show of aerial acrobatics, dance, light and music by Italian company Studio Festi, at the National Museum’s Night Festival, an event held on the 18th July 2008. The facade of the neo-Classical National Museum is seen in the background.
The Asian Civilisations Museum, located at historic Empress Place, was opened on 1st March 2003. The museum presents the history and culture of Singapore’s ancestral cultures.
A dance performance on the lawn of the Asian Civilisations Museum opens the Singapore River Festival, a week-long programme of performances and parades in the quays along the Singapore river.
The ArtScience Museum, built in the shape of a lotus, features changing exhibitions that often rely on technology as a medium for their message.
One of the performers at the 2008 "The Dancing Sky" performance at the National Museum.
An intimate outdoor stage at Esplanade—Theatres by the Bay hosts an evening concert.
The stunning blue facade of the Baba House, a traditional Peranakan pre-war terrace house turned museum. Formerly owned by shipping tycoon, Wee Bin, it was probably built in the 1860s. Today, it is owned and managed by Wee Lin, a sixth-generation descendent of Wee Bin, and contains furniture, mementoes and memories of a typical wealthy Peranakan household.
Cases in point include the Asian Civilisations Museum, the Peranakan Museum, the Baba House and the Chinatown Heritage Centre: each offers more than an adequate glimpse of a particularly Singaporean experience as well as South East Asian and Asian artifacts and culture. Local and other history is on display at the "people’s museum" or the National Museum of Singapore, while experiences of Singaporeans during World War II are adeptly recreated at Fort Siloso, the Memories at Old Ford Factory sited in the building where the British army surrendered to Japanese forces and Reflections at Bukit Chandu, housed in a restored black-and-white colonial bungalow amidst the lush surrounds of Bukit Chandu (Opium Hill), close to where the legendary Battle of Pasir Panjang was fought. High on atmosphere, and often high-tech as well, there is much to be learned and enjoyed at these venues.
A colourful poster for a W!LD RICE production—an imaginative local spin on the world’s favourite fairytale.
SINGAPORE CINEMA
Some argue that Singapore’s film-making heyday occurred during the 1950s and ’60s, but in the last decade homegrown cinema has experienced a renaissance of sorts with offerings that are considerably more profound and professional than Singapore’s television industry. Local directors such as Eric Khoo, Jack Neo, Royston Tan, Kelvin Tong and Anthony Chen represent a younger generation that is making waves both internationally in film festivals and in cinemas at home.
Khoo’s 12 Storeys, Mee Pok Man and Be with Me are accurate portrayals of Singaporean life in its "heartlands", while Jack Neo is well known for commercially successful satirical works, such as I Not Stupid and I Not Stupid Too. More recently, in May 2013, film-maker Anthony Chen became the first Singaporean to win the prestigious Camera d’Or prize for "Best First Feature Film" at the Cannes Film Festival. His movie, Ilo Ilo, tells a domestic story of a family and their new maid.
Whether visitors can catch any of these movies while they are in Singapore really depends on luck and timing, but April sees the Singapore International Film Festival, a month-long event that was launched in 1987. In addition to a varied itinerary of international and local films, there are seminars, workshops and exhibitions on film-making. It is also worth checking local listings for other 2-week film festivals of European cinema—Italian, French and so on.
FOOD IN SINGAPORE
THE NATIONAL OBSESSION
Dishes from all corners of the globe: Chicken satay on wooden skewers. Thick noodles with prawn. Laksa, a spicy noodle dish. Sushi. Hamburger. Egg fried rice.
In the same manner that the English obsess about the weather, Singaporeans obsess about food. They are extremely knowledgeable and critical about their various food options—and even greet each other with the phrase "Have you taken your lunch yet?" as opposed to "Good day" or "Good morning". As is to be expected, every imaginable dish within every imaginable price range is available in a variety of eateries around the island.
Singapore’s history is to be found in its hawker centres and food courts, unpretentious eating areas where a variety of stall owners cook and sell fresh food on the spot. Every single type of multi-ethnic cuisine is available in these establishments with individual stallholders often third or fourth generation family businesses. Large plastic tables and chairs occupy the centre of the space, while a variety of kitchens ring the perimeter. Hawker centres tend to be semi outdoor; food centres will be in the basement of shopping centres. You base your party at a table, then wander at will ordering a selection of dishes that are cooked fresh and brought to your table. High standards of hygiene, uniformly excellent food, and very reasonable prices are the hallmark of these traditional eating centres.
Another traditional eatery is the kopitiam or coffee shop taken from the Hokkien word tiam that translates as "shop". Typically family-run, you’re likely to find marble-topped tables, bentwood chairs and a bustling atmosphere in these shopfront affairs. Manned by an "auntie" or an "uncle" and also usually family run, they are one of the mainstays of Singaporean dining.
In addition to these popular joints, there are any number of restaurants, both indoor and outdoor, selling every possible cuisine and suiting every pocket. As is to be expected, local specialties include a variety of Chinese cuisines, north and south Indian dishes, Malay and Indonesian staples, and the unique flavours of Peranakan or Straits Chinese home cooking. In addition, there is any number of other South East Asian restaurants—Laos noodle joints, Vietnamese and Thai restaurants, Korean barbecues, Japanese kaiseki and sushi—even places that specialize in the cuisines of Cambodia and Myanmar. Furthermore, international and fusion fare is represented by a seemingly endless number of chefs who have set up restaurants serving French, Italian, Greek, Australian, Californian dishes, and more.
Even though the Geylang area is mainly known for its brothels and girlie bars, it also has a glorious food culture. One of the oldest Malay enclaves in Singapore, its lorongs or small side streets are home to numerous eateries, coffee shops and makeshift stalls. It also has a lively "old Singapore" atmosphere.
Hainanese chicken rice set with a side dish of baby kailan, a crunchy local vegetable.
A richly ornate lantern hangs above a table setting at the True Blue restaurant, a Peranakan establishment adjacent the Peranakan museum. Decor, food and displays form a good introduction to this unique culture.
A variety of different satay grilled over charcoal and served with peanut sauce and fresh cucumber and onion slices.
Chilli crab is much loved by Singaporeans: usually mud crabs are chosen and stir-fried in a semi-thick, sweet and savoury tomato and chilli based sauce.
Zongzi or sticky rice dumplings are made from glutinous rice stuffed with different fillings and wrapped in bamboo, reed, or other flat leaves. Steamed or boiled, they are often eaten during the Dragon Boat Festival.
An atmospheric, lively pub and restaurant in Emerald Hill, an area of conserved shophouses off Orchard Road.
The high-end gourmet scene is thriving, especially in the top five-star hotels, and Singapore is known for its World Gourmet Summit and International Food Festival when visiting chefs cook up a storm with accompanying fine wines and cognacs. But for a more local flavour, nothing beats hawker-style Chinese, Indian, Malay and Peranakan dishes and some of the homegrown specialties such as chilli crab and fish head curry.
South Indian cuisine is well represented in Singapore as many early immigrants were Tamils: super-spicy curries, often utilizing coconut milk and flavoured with mint, curry and coriander leaves, are a particular favourite served on banana leaves in numerous inexpensive restaurants in the Little India area. That’s not to say that north Indian tandoor cuisine, as well as Indian Muslim food isn’t popular: roti prata (derived from the word paratha) is a crispy-crunchy type of pancake served with curry often as a late-night, post-clubbing snack, while a number of different biriyani or saffron-scented rice dishes are also well liked.
On the Chinese front, there are literally too many authentic cuisines to mention: Be it Szechuan, Cantonese, Teochew or Hakka, Chinese chefs are very inventive, with many adapting their dishes to local tastes and ingredients. Some of the best loved are seafood dishes like chilli crab, arguably Singapore’s national dish, with crispy duck hot on its heels! Fried spring rolls or popiah make for a tasty snack, while staple noodle or mee dishes, won ton dumplings and Hainanese chicken rice, steamed and served with a clear chicken stock, are all firm favourites amongst Singaporeans.
Peranakan women, called Nyonya, are famed in Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore for their home cooking which is an expressive medley of eclecticism. In Nyonya dishes, we see the Malay fondness for chillies, belacan (dried shrimp paste) and coconut flesh and milk incorporated into traditional Chinese recipes. Pungent, spicy and fragrant, cooks say it is all in the preparation—which can literally take hours. Extended periods of marination, all spices pounded fresh, only the freshest of local ingredients and the best cuts—all contribute to this delightfully distinctive cuisine.
Finally, we cannot finish a description of food without mentioning the importance of Malay cuisine. Essentially a mixture of peninsular Malaysia dishes with influences from the Indonesian islands, most dishes are served with rice. Satay, small bamboo skewers with chunks of chicken, mutton or beef, marinated then grilled over charcoal and dipped in a spicy peanut sauce finds its way into many kitchens. Or try nasi goreng, a fried rice dish that is really as much Chinese as Malay; it’s a good example of the multi-national flavour of Singaporean cuisine.
Singapore lends itself to casual outdoor dining, and nowhere is this more apparent than along the Singapore river. Here, a row of pubs, eateries, and even a microbrewery line the river at Riverside Point.
SHOPPING
THE OTHER NATIONAL OBSESSION
A poster advertising Singapore’s annual Fashion Festival. Humour in a road- side sign on Orchard Road. Jutting out over the waters of Marina Bay is the Moshi Safdie designed futuristic glass-and-steel pavilion that houses one of only 12 Louis Vuitton Island Maison stores found worldwide.
When people talk about shopping they invariably mention "Orchard", as Singapore’s equivalent of Fifth Avenue in New York or Oxford Street in London is known. A 1.5 km one-way street lined with malls, hotels and offices, Orchard Road contains every brand one can think of—and more. However, don’t be fooled into thinking this is your only option: Singapore has plenty of other retail therapy on offer.
Even though you aren’t likely to bag a bargain, unless you shop during late May to early July when the Great Singapore Sale is on, what you will find in Singapore is a huge choice of goods and a very convenient shopping experience. It is easy to get from mall to mall, quality is high and prices are fixed, so you don’t have to worry about getting ripped off. But if the mall isn’t for you, there are steamy bazaars, outdoor wet markets (for fruit, veg, fish and meat, as well as sundry other goods), small neighbourhood shops usually on the ground floor of shophouses, and a few well-established department stores. Singaporeans seem to obsess about shopping almost as obsessively as they obsess about food—so there is something for everybody in pretty much every category.
Diversity is also to be found in the goods on offer: From international brand names to quirky local and Asian labels, fashion is well represented. Singapore is keen to be seen as the region’s fashion capital with its annual Singapore Fashion Festival in April unveiling collections from international powerhouses and talented Asian designers alike. Along with the parties and press releases, there are runway shows and fashion exhibitions as well. For the most part, Orchard is your best bet for Western clothes, whilst regional attire may be found elsewhere: saris in Little India and sarong and kebaya in Chinatown and the Arab Quarter, for example.
These areas are also good for a more local shopping experience. Chinese silks, traditional Chinese medicines and herbs, Asian antiques and crafts, made-in-China souvenirs, and more are all to be found in the grid of lanes off South Bridge Road in Chinatown. For sure, there’s a lot of tourist tat, but the atmosphere in this buzzy area of low-rise shophouses is an attraction in itself. Similarly, the Arab Quarter is worth a wander: set around the Sultan Mosque are a number of small lanes of shophouses carrying a good selection of fabrics ranging from Indonesian and Malaysian batiks to Chinese silks and Indian cottons, as well as handmade perfume bottles and basket wares. And if it is Indian wares you are after—saris, incense, gold jewellery, henna tattoos and the like—the alleyways and shops around Serangoon Road won’t disappoint. This is also the location of Mustafa: open 24 hours a day, this venerable institution stocks an eclectic collection of goods from Bollywood DVDs to white goods, fresh food, luggage and electronics.
An exterior view of ION Orchard captures the curvy structure of this landmark shopping mall designed by British architects Benoy in 2009.
A sculptural Chinese New Year decoration graces Orchard Road in front of the up-market Paragon shopping mall. The theme in 2012 for the decorations was "Colourful & Brilliant".
Modern art is readily available in Singapore, both at galleries and specialist art fairs.
An indie fashion store on trendy Haji Lane in the Arab Quarter.
Chinese porcelain pieces in a high-end antiques gallery.
A catwalk show of designs from Priyadarshini Rao at the annual Singapore Fashion Festival.
A row of select shops lines the mall at Resorts World Sentosa.
A selection of rare and authentic Khmer, Thai, Burmese and Chinese sculptures and Chinese ceramics from Asia Ancient Gallery.
All the high-end, international brands, including Prada, line the malls on Orchard.
Even though the latter aren’t as cheap as they used to be, there are a few malls that deal exclusively in electronic goods, from cameras to computers and an assortment of accessories. Here, you can do a bit of bargaining and it pays to do some research before you arrive: many of the shopkeepers have a great sales patter. The same can be said for the carpet sellers: a number of carpet dealers have made Singapore their home over the generations and they stock an extensive selection of Middle Eastern and Asian carpets and rugs. But, remember, they are true professionals; before you know it, you’ll be organizing a shipment of rugs that you didn’t need or particularly want!
With all antiques, it is sensible to get a certificate of authenticity and a proper receipt. The same can be said for artworks, which are now one of Singapore’s hottest exports. Along with ARTSingapore, Art Stage Singapore and the Affordable Art Fair all plying Asian and other talent, there are literally hundreds of art galleries, showcasing an amazing variety of artists, genres and prices. Again, it helps to do your homework before you purchase.
Finally, mention must be made of flea markets ... the true antithesis of the air-conditioned mall. The oldest and best-loved is the Sungei Road Thieves’ Market—four roads of kerbside stalls with old men selling anything from chipped crockery to old currency, broken radios to used clothing. The market takes its name from its 1930s’ heyday when it was a mecca for stolen goods; today, the stuff is bona fide, but whether you actually want to purchase any of it is another matter. Collectors would be better off at the Clarke Quay sunday market or the Temple Street bazaar: both have stalls selling old memorabilia from China and Singapore, including Chairman Mao mementoes, antique bronze wares, hand-embroidered bead handbags and the like. Again, the atmosphere is part of the attraction at both these bustling venues.
South East Asian art on display at Aryaseni Art Gallery.
Antique religious statuary, such as Buddhas, Taoist deities, monk statues and more are easily available at specialist art and antique shops in Singapore.
GREEN SINGAPORE
ASIA'S PREMIER GARDEN CITY
The tiger may be extinct, but Singapore is home to a rich selection of animal and bird life: Large monitor lizard, stork (three species are resident in Singapore), green tree snake, long-tailed macaque.
Surprisingly, about half of Singapore’s 700 square kilometres of land is reserved for parks, reservoirs, a few small farms, military training grounds and some remaining areas of untouched primary forest. For such a built-up conurbation, it is encouraging that there is so much green.
Being just north of the equator, Singapore is hot, wet, and steamy pretty much year round. As such, it contains an enormous variety of flora—in fact, Dr David Bellamy, a renowned English botanist, once estimated that Singapore contained more plant species than are found in the whole of North America! The island used to be totally covered with dense lowland tropical rain forest, with mangroves along the coasts and tidal creeks and freshwater swamp forests in its interior. As settlement increased from the 1840s onwards, much of the forest was cut down to make way for nutmeg, gambier, clove, pepper and cocoa plantations. As a result, many plant species, including 60 species of mangrove orchids, disappeared—and great tracts of jungle were cleared.
Thankfully, at the turn of the century, forest reserves were set up and, today, the National Parks Board protects about 3,000 hectares of natural reserves. These include the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, the Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, the Labrador Nature Reserve, as well as the Central Catchment Nature Reserve that contains most of the country’s fresh water.
A serene view of one of the disused granite quarries on rural Pulau Ubin that has been cleverly transformed into a picturesque lake and now attracts a wide variety of bio-diversity.
A flight of steps along one of the many peaceful paths that traverse through the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. As this forest was never extensively cleared for cultivation, it is home to a vast variety of plants. In fact, Alfred Russel Wallace declared it to be "exceedingly productive".
Designed to evoke inner peace and meditation, the Japanese Garden in Jurong contains many elements from traditional Japanese garden design—arched bridges, stone lanterns, rest houses, ponds and gravel chip paved areas.
A stand of nibong palm trees graces the shore of one of the lakes in the Botanic Gardens. Founded in 1859, it has recently been suggested that the gardens deserve UNESCO World Heritage status.
The Botanic Gardens has 6.2 hectares of one of the oldest remnants of primary rainforest in Singapore. Only a few minutes’ walk from the downtown area, it is home to 314 species of flora. There are three layers of trees—the emergents (45 m), the canopy tree layer (35 m) and the lower tree layer (25 m)—as well as an understorey, all full of rich plant life. A walk here is truly a jungle walk.
These areas are home to more than 840 flowering plants and over 500 species of animals—including towering tropical trees, palms, rattans, ferns, orchids, gingers and many more. In addition, rich bio-diversity is to be found in a multitude of parks and gardens, in plantings along many highways and roads, in collections of heritage trees, and along an extensive network of "park connectors". These comprise cycling, rollerblading, jogging and walking tracks that link certain parks within the city.
As a result, Singapore justifiably markets itself as Asia’s "Garden City". With strong conservation policies and active promotion of green recreation, it seeks to promote its natural resources for residents and tourists alike. Few urban areas contain so many pockets of green—from tiny city parks and park connectors to the massive Botanic Gardens and various nature reserves. In addition, there is on-going research and development into urban bio-diversity on a wider scale.
Visitors should not miss the world-famous Botanic Gardens and the newer Gardens by the Bay, not to mention a trip to the nearby island of Pulau Ubin or a hike in the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. The latter is home to numerous long-tailed macaques, monitor lizards, squirrels, as well as a wide variety of snakes, while wild boar are abundant on Ubin. Orchid lovers will not be disappointed by a trip to the Mandai Orchid Garden or the National Orchid Gardens within the Botanic Gardens, while birders are advised to head to the Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, a major stopover for migratory birds, that also contains otters, monitor lizards and a few saltwater crocodiles. In addition, many man-made attractions, such as the zoo, Jurong Bird Park and East Coast Park are veritable oases of green in themselves—it isn’t a coincidence that the zoo’s true name is the Singapore Zoological Gardens.
THE NATIONAL PARKS BOARD
Responsible for providing and enhancing the greenery in Singapore, NParks (as the organization is known) manages Singapore’s four nature reserves and over 300 parks. It is also the impetus behind the extensive streetscape plantings and the grid of park connectors that display a huge variety of flowering tropical plants. In addition, it actively engages the community in its green infrastructure projects, with the aim of improving residents’ lifestyles.
NParks’ history is closely intertwined with the history of tree planting in Singapore. This began with Lee Kuan Yew’s vision to create a city-state within a garden environment consisting of parks, gardens and open spaces linked by a matrix of tree-lined roads and park connectors. He believed that not only would such an environment benefit its inhabitants, it would attract foreign investors to the country. The specialist Parks and Trees Unit that oversaw this work was the forerunner of the National Parks Board (which was eventually formed in 1996).
The Mission Statement of NParks—"to create the best living environment through excellent greenery and recreation, in partnership with the community"—sums up its overall aim, but doesn’t really do justice to the hordes of gardeners, horticulturalists, educators and more that passionately tend to the city-state’s green areas. Without them, Singapore would be a very different city indeed.