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Aspect and light

The aspect of your garden plays a significant role in how your garden looks and feels, and to the kinds of plants that will flourish there. A garden with little shade that is baked by the summer sun may even be too hot to use in high summer, whereas shadier gardens will have a much cooler feel to them. In both these instances, the range of plants that you can choose is quite different. Plants that originated in the Mediterranean region such as lavender (Lavandula), rosemary (Rosmarinus) and lavender cotton (Santolina) will enjoy basking in the heat, and will have adapted through time to thrive in such conditions. Those plants with woodland origins such as ferns, snowdrops (Galanthus) and camellias are adapted to grow in shade and may suffer if planted in the same hot, sunny position. Many gardens have planting opportunities for both aspects, so make a note of where the sun shines in your garden throughout the day, and then make your plant choices accordingly.

In a sunny garden

In the northern hemisphere, gardens that have an open, south or westerly aspect are usually hot and sunny for most of the day. The way in which the sun falls in your garden is an important consideration in the planning of features, and as the sun sets in the west, this aspect will be bathed with warm evening sunshine – a great bonus for those of us that work during the daytime – and so is an obvious choice for an evening seating area. During high summer, a south-facing, warm, sunny wall may be uncomfortably hot, but during the colder months any warmth at all will be welcomed. In our open, south-facing garden, I especially enjoy my seat by the kitchen door, so that I can take pleasure in a little winter sunshine; perfect for enjoying morning coffee outside while I let the dog out!

If your garden is particularly hot and sunny due to its aspect, consider planting trees to create some light shade and shelter, or consider an arbour or pergola (see here). Remember, too, that even in the hottest, driest spot, there are sun-loving plants that will flourish (see here).

An open, sunny aspect is perfect for many perennials and shrubs.

Here are some favourite sun-loving plants in my garden: French lavender (Lavandula stoechas), globe thistle (Echinops sphaerocephalus ‘Niveus’) and the soft yellow Phlomis russeliana.

Small trees to provide light shade

Acer pseudoplatanus ‘Brilliantissimum’

Amelanchier lamarckii (snowy mespilus)

Betula utilis var. jacquemontii (Himalayan birch)

Cercidyphyllum japonicum (Katsura tree)

Crataegus laevigata ‘Paul’s Scarlet’ (May hawthorn)

Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Sunburst’ (honey locust)

Malus × robusta ‘Red Sentinel’ (crab apple)

Prunusx subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’ (Higan cherry)

Rhus typhina (velvet sumach)

Sorbus cashmiriana

KIM’S TIPS

 Use a compass to help you establish which direction your garden faces.

 For gardens in the southern hemisphere, all directions are reversed. So a south- or west-facing garden is predominantly shady, while a north- or east-facing garden enjoys plenty of sun.

In a shady garden

A northerly or easterly aspect will almost certainly mean more shade, but this doesn’t mean it needs to be dark and dull. First, consider thinning out some of the trees and tall shrubs to let in more light, and plant golden-leaved plants to lighten the shade, such as the golden-leaved mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius ‘Aureus’) or the golden-leaved dogwood (Cornus alba ‘Aurea’). A plant with golden foliage will brighten any dark corner and many prefer to grow in part shade as full sun may scorch their leaves.

The shade cast by deciduous trees and shrubs will not come into full effect until the leaves appear. So if you underplant with spring-flowering bulbs, such as snowdrops (Galanthus), daffodils (Narcissus) and bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta), they will complete their flowering season before the tree canopy closes up. Low light levels in shady gardens can make things appear to be smaller, so be bold with everything from layout (use generous paving areas) and ornament (choose large containers) to planting. Several exotic-looking bold architectural plants, such as the castor-oil fig (Fatsia japonica) and the Chusan palm (Trachycarpus fortune!), tolerate a little shade.

In shady courtyards, brightly painted walls will substantially increase light levels, while strategically placed mirrors will reflect more light into the space as well as making it appear larger than it is. Water, too, will reflect light, adding sparkle to shady corners while offering sympathetic planting opportunities for fabulous foliage associations, such as shade-tolerant ferns, foxgloves and arum. The larger blue-leaved hostas are easy to grow in such situations and are slug resistant too.

Not all plants like full sun. Many ferns (above) are first and foremost woodland plants so, like foxgloves (Digitalis,) and hostas (right), they are happy when growing in partial shade.

Top bold shade-tolerant shrubs

Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel)

Camellia japonica (common camellia)

Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia)

Hydrangea quercifolia (oak-leaved hydrangea)

Mahonia × media ‘Charity’

Phormium tenax (New Zealand flax)

Prunus laurocerasus (cherry laurel)

Skimmia japonica

Trachycarpus fortunei (Chusan palm)

Viburnum davidii

Shelter

Shelter too is an important factor to take into account. Keeping out the wind increases the warmth of a garden significantly. Many plants can suffer from wind exposure (for example, they may have torn, tatty leaves), plus the soil dries out more quickly. Buildings, walls, fences and hedges all contribute to successfully reducing the exposure to wind. This, in turn, makes the garden a far more comfortable place for plants and people alike.

In windy situations, solid walls or fences may create turbulence on the sheltered side. To avoid this, use a slightly open fence, such as woven hazel, through which wind passes, but at a reduced speed. Hedges also allow for this filtering effect and can be a cheaper option than erecting fences or walls, while simultaneously providing colour and interest within the garden.

Formal hedges such as yew (Taxus baccata) may need clipping twice a year. Informal hedges such as laurustinus (Viburnum tinus) are generally left unclipped and are therefore more labour saving. Remember to plant evergreens – plants that do not shed their leaves – where privacy is of prime importance. Where security is an issue, plant tough, prickly hedges such as holly (llex × altaclerensis ‘Golden King’), Berberis darwinii, firethorn (Pyracantha ‘Mohave’) and hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), which all provide tough protection.

Top evergreen hedging shrubs

Berberis darwinii

Buxus sempervirens (common box)

Cotoneaster franchetii

Elaeagnus × ebbingei

Escallonia ‘Iveyi’

Photinia × fraseri ‘Red Robin’

Prunus laurocerasus (cherry laurel)

Prunus lusitanica (Portuguese laurel)

Pyracantha ‘Mohave’ (firethorn)

Taxus baccata (yew)

Viburnum tinus (laurustinus)

Hedges can add to the style of the garden, as well as providing structure and shelter.