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PREFACE

As our plane made its bumpy arrival at Sky Harbor International Airport, the kid next to us frowned while looking out across the runway and mumbled resentfully, “I hate Arizona. It’s so brown.”

We exchanged wry smiles, hearing the echo of so many other voices, even some long-term Phoenicians we know. Later we mulled over the injustice of it. Obviously, this boy has never camped by the rushing Black River or seen the broad meadows and towering pines above the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. We planned exactly where we’d take this poor, misguided youth to show him just how green this state can be: up to the verdant crowns of the southern sky islands, the Chiricahuas, Pinaleños, Santa Ritas, Santa Catalinas, Huachucas; along the emerald riparian corridors of the Verde, Gila, and San Pedro Rivers; and into the cool forests of the Mogollon Rim and the White Mountains.

Then we’d bring that kid to the desert again, to reveal to him the kaleidoscope of hues that look brown from an airplane window. In the spring, we’d hike him around the Superstitions and to Lake Pleasant to show him hillsides carpeted in yellow as the Mexican gold poppies and brittlebush bloom, and dotted with purple lupines and orange and pink globemallows. He’d see the startling fuchsia, crimson, and lemon yellow of cholla, hedgehog, and prickly pear flowers against deep-green cactus skins. Finally, we’d make a grand tour of Sedona, Sycamore Canyon, the Painted Desert, and the Grand Canyon, to see all the vivid colors of the earth itself.

We have no idea who that boy was or how he ended up spending his time in Arizona, but this book is for him and all the kids out there like him.

Perhaps you’re a visitor from elsewhere, or maybe you’re a new Arizona resident wondering what you’ve gotten yourself into. If metro Phoenix is your main frame of reference, you might be forgiven for having some misgivings. There’s an old joke that Arizona has only two seasons, hot and hotter, but cheer up—you can find spring, summer, winter, or fall within a 5-hour drive at almost any time of the year. Somewhere in Arizona, there’s a landscape and a climate to please almost everybody.

What we’ve tried to do in this guide is help you find those places that will suit you best. We’re making a few assumptions along the way: that you love the outdoors, that you favor peace and quiet but are sometimes willing to compromise, and that you appreciate a wide variety of different experiences. In short, that you’re a lot like us.

Like so many Arizonans, we’re imports from other climes—Kirstin from the lakes and snows of Minnesota and Kelly from the lush hills of Maryland. Kirstin knew from day one that she belonged here, while Kelly took some time to develop a full appreciation of the desert. Family camping played a part of both our young lives, in tents, pop-ups, and cabins. The leap to camping as adults came for both of us when we moved to the Grand Canyon State, where unparalleled natural diversity calls out to be explored.

Studies have shown that being in nature is good for your body and soul. This just makes sense in our modern world of superhighways and smartphones. Congratulations on making the effort to tear yourselves (and especially your kids) away from comfy chairs and glowing screens!

Note also that these preserves and parks and wildlands need you as much as you need them. This is still an era of budget squeezing and struggling to make ends meet for the U.S. Forest Service, the National Park Service, and state and county parks, even as the number of people seeking recreation in America’s outdoors increases every year. Those of us who cherish these resources need to support them, to raise awareness of their value, to advocate their wise use, and to raise another generation of responsible, educated, and enthusiastic campers—kids who get excited when they look out the airplane window.

WHAT’S NEW

We wrote the first edition of this book just before the 2008 economic crash, which had a significant impact on many of Arizona’s recreational sites. It’s been interesting to see how various agencies have responded: some sites have closed, some sites have removed their campground hosts, and some sites have increased their prices, although a surprising number of sites have remained free.

We’ve added several new campgrounds for the second edition, including one at Monument Valley that puts the iconic view of the Mittens just outside your tent. At Ashurst Lake, you’ll find great fishing and bird-watching opportunities with a view of the San Francisco Peaks in the distance. Brookchar offers walk-in tent-only sites with sunset views across Big Lake. Creekside Lawrence Crossing, named for a murdered man, is now a green and peaceful base to experience the far more ancient past at the V Bar V petroglyph site.

We’ve also added remote gems like verdant and often-unused Rose Creek in the gorgeous Sierra Anchas, as well as popular Sunny Flat, a perfect setting for bird-watching and exploring the unique geology of the Chiricahua Mountains. For desert bikers and hikers, we’ve included the sprawling, spectacular McDowell Mountain County Park outside of Phoenix.

Prices, websites, and profile text have all been updated to reflect the changes that have occurred over the past 10 years. New categories for the best campgrounds include the best sites for each season, the best free sites, and the best sites to see wildflowers and birds.

What hasn’t changed is the rich history that you get to experience by visiting these campgrounds and the never-ending beauty that is the state of Arizona.

—Kirstin and Kelly

Best Tent Camping: Arizona

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