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That caning has not been undertaken to any appreciable extent in school shops is due to the fact that instructors are unfamiliar with the weaving processes. Caning is not difficult. It, in common with many other lines of activity, is best learned thru observation. However, it may be undertaken by the average person after careful study of printed directions and illustrations. If the worker will closely observe his own work as it progresses, and follows instructions carefully, he should have no unusual difficulty in caning an area very acceptably in the initial attempt. Particular attention should be paid to directions which tell of errors to avoid. Errors creep in, in a very unobtrusive manner at times, and the amateur will find them hard to detect.

Cane.—Cane is the name applied to a great number of plants which possess long, slender, reedlike stems. The name should apply only to a class of palms called rattans. These plants are found thruout the Indian Archipelago, China, India, Ceylon, and the Malay Peninsula. They grow in dense, dark forests and form a matted undergrowth which makes passage difficult or impossible. These palms are trailing in tendency, yet frequently grow to tree height. They then fall over and lie on the ground. The stem is covered with beautiful green foliage, grows to a length of 100 to 300 ft., and rarely exceeds 1 in. in diameter. The stems are cut into lengths of 10 to 20 ft. for export. The outer bark is stripped into widths varying from ¹⁄₁₆ to ³⁄₁₆ in. These strips are put into hanks of 1,000 lineal feet each. The cane is then ready for the cane weaver. A hank of cane costs from 60 cents to $1. The width of the cane and its quality determines the price per hank. It may be purchased from any upholstery supply house.

Cane is named from the narrowest to the widest in order: carriage, superfine, fine-fine, fine, medium, common, narrow binder, and wide binder. Cane from India has a very glossy surface, while that from other localities is duller. The right side of the cane is easily determined by this glossiness.

Cane for weaving purposes should not be confused with the popularly called cane or bamboo of our southern states, where it forms the well known cane-brakes. This cane rarely exceeds a height of 20 ft. It grows rapidly and very straight, and to an appreciable diameter. Such cane is used for bamboo furniture, walking sticks, poles, etc. The ordinary domestic sugar cane, also, should not be confused with seating cane.

FIG. 1. THE CANING NEEDLE.

Equipment.—The tools needed in cane weaving are few in number. A special one is called the caning needle. This may be made in the school shop. Fig. 1 shows a working drawing of the needle. Its length is variable, depending upon the work at hand. It is desirable to have a number of different lengths. The tool is made of good flexible steel wire. This is flattened at one end, an eye cut in it, blunt pointed, and slightly curved as indicated. The other end is inserted in an ordinary small tool handle, extended thru and riveted. The riveting prevents the wire from drawing out of the handle under a pulling strain.

The other tools needed are a scratch awl, and a pair of scissors or knife. A button-hook with the hook straightened or cut off may take the place of the awl. A pair of dividers and rule are necessary for marking. Several wood pegs are needed. These may be classed with the tools. They are made from a ¼ in. dowel rod, or the equivalent. Cut them about 4 in. long and point them as you would a lead pencil. The amateur is inclined to use a number of pegs. Four should prove amply sufficient.

Beginning the Operation.—Fig. 2 is a photograph of an upholstered leg rest with caned sides. This rest will be used for our initial work in cane weaving, inasmuch as the area for caning is rectangular. It is not advisable for the beginner to have his initial experience on a chair seat, for the area is usually of an odd shape, and arms, legs, and back interfere. However, any rectangular area on which there are no projections to bother may be used for the first trial.

FIG. 2. LEG REST.

It is assumed that the sides of the rest have been fitted. The rails and stiles are then assembled with glue, without the posts. When the glue has set the proper length of time, and the frame is cleaned and sanded, the rails and stiles are ready to dimension.

Draw pencil lines entirely around the inner sides of the rails and stiles,½ in. from the edges. This distance remains constant, usually, on all areas and with canes the various widths. With a pair of dividers set at ¼ in. space off points on the pencil lines, starting from the intersection of the extended lines on each rail. Fig. 3 is a working drawing of a corner, dimensioned as suggested. It will make clearer the directions. It is fundamental that the spacing be done in the same direction on parallel rails, for at times the last space will be a short ½ in. or whatever dimension is used. In such cases it is necessary to redivide the last several spaces into divisions as near ½ in. as possible. It thus becomes obvious why spacing must be done in one direction as stated. This applies to all rectangular frames.

FIG. 3. SKETCH OF CORNER FOR CANING.

With a ³⁄₁₆ in. wood bit bore holes thru the rails and stiles at the points marked. Countersink the holes slightly on the underside of the frame. This is not absolutely necessary but aids considerably in locating the holes, and in other ways. In shops where power machinery is available a vertical borer may be used for this purpose. It is best to carefully mark the points for boring with a center punch. The twist bit will then start accurately and the danger for getting out of line will be reduced to a minimum. The dimensions given here are for fine-fine cane. Use sandpaper to remove pencil lines and rough edges left from boring; then clamp the frame over the edge of a table or bench with a carriage clamp; sit while doing the weaving.

The Seven Steps in Caning.—Fig. 4 shows the seven steps in caning. Refer to this photograph thruout the following directions. The numbers on the photograph refer to the steps.

FIG. 4. THE SEVEN STEPS IN CANING.

Step 1. A hank of cane should be soaked for a few minutes in warm water, or longer in cold. Do not soak it too long. Start a strand by drawing one end thru a hole next to a corner hole, and let it project about 3 in. below. Fasten with a peg. Then starting at the peg, pull the entire strand thru the thumb and forefinger to prevent twisting, and pull the end down thru the hole on the opposite parallel rail next to the corner hole, and then up thru the hole next to it. See that the right side of the cane is out on the underside of the frame as on the top. Pull the cane reasonably taut, and fasten with a peg to prevent the strand from slipping back and becoming loose. Draw the cane thru the thumb and forefinger again; pull it across the frame and down thru the hole next to the peg and up thru the hole next to it. Pull taut and fasten with the second peg. This operation is repeated until all holes have been utilized on the two parallel rails, except those on the corners. Thruout the seven operations it is necessary that the cane be kept from twisting by drawing the remaining part of the strand thro thumb and forefinger.

Step 2. The second step is identical with the first, with the difference that the other two parallel rails are used, and that the canes run over the first set of parallel canes. If the first strand of cane has not been entirely used up in the first step, the remainder is used to begin the second step.

FIG. 5. METHOD OF TYING ENDS OF CANE.

Step 3. This step is a repetition of the first two. The canes of this series run over the first and second series and parallel with the first. As each strand is used up bind the end by pulling it under a cane, crossing from one hole to another underneath the frame and cutting off about ¼ in. from the cane. Fig. 5 shows how this binding is done. The loose end at the starting point is tied in this way, and all subsequent ones should be tied as they come, thus avoiding interference by many pegs, and insuring neat binding.

Step 4. The actual weaving begins with this step. It may be done entirely by hand, without resort to the needle, but it is slow work. The needle should be used. Start at a hole next to a corner on either rail that has been used but once, working from caned side toward the open frame. Go over and under the strands necessary to form the weave, turning the needle from side to side in order to catch the canes behind the point. When across thread the needle with the strand and pull thru, being careful to avoid a twist. Pull the end down thru the hole, pairing the canes. Pull the cane up thru the next hole; then start the needle from the opposite side of the frame and repeat the first operation, thus pairing another set of canes. Continue until all canes are paired and all holes used. Soak the woven cane with a wet sponge, and with two pegs straighten the strands of cane and force all pairs together. Small, open squares are thus formed over the area being caned. Unless the cane is soaked it will prove rather difficult to pair the canes.

Step 5. This step is the weaving of one set of diagonals. Start the strand at any corner hole. Use one hand over and one under the frame. As the worker becomes skilful he will find it easier to give the cane a slight curve and work with both hands on the upper surface. Use an end of cane long enough for convenient handling; then pull the entire strand thru the length of the frame, provided the area is not too great. Care must be taken to avoid twisting the cane. The cane will run easily, and partially under a cane at the corners of the squares, if correctly done. Fig. 6 shows this clearly, as does the illustration in Fig. 27. The second illustration is a photograph of a strip of cane webbing, is approximately half size, and will supplement the freehand sketch. The corners will bind, and the strand will pull with difficulty if the cane is incorrectly woven. On parallel canes note that the canes either run over or under the pairs.

FIG. 6. FREEHAND SKETCH OF CANING.

Step 6. This step is identical with the preceding one. The canes are at right angles to the first diagonals. In this step and the preceding one note that two strands run into the corner holes. This holds true in all rectangular frames where a corner hole is bored. It permits the strands to run in as straight a line as possible. If it is necessary to turn abruptly to enter a hole it is obvious that an error has been made by the weaver.

Step 7. Pull a cane of the same size as used in the other steps up thru a hole, over the binder cane and down thru the same hole. A loop is thus formed and the binder secured. Pull taut, then enter the next hole, pull up the cane over the binder and down, and so on. This operation may be repeated at every other hole when the holes are close together. The two ends of the binder are finally overlapped and secured, and the operation thus completed. At times, when the last strands are woven, it may prove advisable to secure canes underneath the frame by plugging the necessary holes; at least in instances where the canes have a tendency to work loose.

SUGGESTIVE PROJECTS.