Читать книгу Project Mustang - Larry Lyles - Страница 7

Now that I have completed inspecting the Mustang’s exterior and interior, I have a much clearer picture of the work that will be involved in restoring the car. Before I can begin working on the car, however, I need to gather a few tools, have the air conditioning system tested, establish a good working height, and drain the fluids. Once this is done, I can begin the exterior teardown.

TOOLS

Putting this Mustang back on the road is going to require a little more than just the desire to get the job done. I will also need a few tools, starting with an assortment of common hand tools found in almost everybody’s toolbox: end wrenches; sockets; screwdrivers, both flat-blade and Phillips-type; pliers; and hammers.

The tools not found in most toolboxes are those more specifically designed for auto body repair work. Most of these are one-of-a-kind tools and serve a specific function to aide either in tearing down a vehicle or in making needed repairs to a vehicle. These are the types of tools that may not be readily available at the local automotive parts store but are nevertheless necessary for restoration work.

The Eastwood Company supplies many of these hard-to-find tools. Along with each tool that I list, I’m going to include its part number so you can find it easily in the catalog. As I move deeper into this project, I’ll show you where and how these tools are to be used.

Eastwood auto body repair tools include:

• Body Hammer #31219: removes dents and other imperfections in the metal

• Panel Gap Gauge #31129: aligns doors, fenders, hood, and deck lid to achieve a uniform gap between adjacent panels

• Planishing Hammer #28116 PH:shapes replacement patch panels when repairing rust damage

• Reversed Door Trim Tool #52297: safely removes door trim panels attached with metal spring clips

• Shrinking Hammer #31034: removes small areas of stretched metal

PHOTO 1: Specialty tools from Eastwood. From left to right: body hammer, shrinking hammer, reversed door trim tool, wide blade trim tool, door handle clip tool, windshield reveal molding tool, tubing bender, and panel gap gauge.

• Trim Removal Set #52021: includes a wide blade trim tool primarily used to remove plastic door panel clips, a door handle tool, and a windshield clip tool

• Tubing Bender #49041: fabricates brake and fuel lines

Eastwood metalworking dollies include:

• General Purpose Dolly #31032: the work horse of metal-repairing dollies with a unique saddle shape that makes it comfortable to use, and it is almost unlimited in its applications

PHOTO 2: Metal working dollies. From left to right: general-purpose dolly, heel dolly, and metal shrinking dolly.

PHOTO 3: Pneumatic tools. From left to right, top to bottom: ½-inch impact wrench, air chisel, -inch drill, die grinder, and metal nibbler.

PHOTO 4: Pneumatic tools. Left to right, top to bottom: DA sander, mini grinder, mini DA sander, and right angle mini grinder.

PHOTO 5: Sanding blocks. Left to right: 16-inch plastic body filler block, (top) 16-inch wooden handled primer block, 8-inch primer block, and round finish sanding pad; (bottom) 8-inch block, 5-inch block, and soft foam block.

• Heel Dolly #31225: shaped like the heel of a shoe, this dolly is used primarily on curved panels

• Shrinking Dolly #31083: used in conjunction with Shrinking Hammer #31034 to remove small areas of stretched metal

Tools you will find at the local automotive parts store include the following commonly used pneumatic tools:

• Air chisel: makes short work of removing rusted-out panels

• -inch drill: covers tasks from drilling needed holes to drilling out old spot welds

• ½-inch-drive impact wrench: removes those “stuck in place for 20 years” bolts and nuts

• Die grinder: cuts metal, removes excess metal after welding, and does a number of other operations that come up only during the heat of panel replacement

• Metal nibbler: valuable when trimming or fabricating new sheet metal replacement panels

Pneumatic tools that are specific to body repair work include:

• Dual action (DA) sander: used to sand or remove old paint

• Mini dual action sander: allows access to difficult-to-reach areas as well as allows finite smoothing of paint nibs once the finish has been applied

• Mini grinder: takes the place of a larger, more cumbersome, full-size grinder

• Right angle polisher/grinder: allows access to difficult-to-reach areas requiring grinding or polishing

Body repair tools that operate only under manual labor include an assortment of sanding blocks. Common sizes include:

• 16-inch block: used on huge flat panels to sand plastic body filler

• 8-inch block: used for sanding plastic body filler and to sand smaller flat panels and lightly curved surfaces

• 5-inch block: used for sanding plastic body filler and to sand small areas on flat panels and deeply contoured panels

• 16-inch primer block: used to sand primer and surfacer and to sand large flat surfaces; has a padded sanding surface

• 8-inch primer block: used to sand primer and surfacer on smaller flat panels and to sand lightly curved surfaces; has a padded sanding surface

• Soft foam block: used to sand primer and surfacer; can be used to sand small areas but works best when used on highly curved or contoured surfaces

• Round finish sanding block: the round design allows this soft foam block to accept most 1000-, 1500-, and 2000-grit finish sanding discs when sanding clear coats

Once the right tools are in hand, the next consideration is supplies. Here is a list of body repair supplies taken from the Norton line of sanding and prepping products (part numbers are included):

• Norton 40-grit File Paper #23615 and Norton 80-grit File Paper #23614: the 3½ x 18–inch sandpapers are used for block sanding plastic body filler; start with the 40 grit and finish with the 80 grit

• Norton 180-grit roll #31687 and 320-grit roll #31683: 3½-inch-wide rolls of sandpaper that are used primarily for block sanding. The 180 grit allows you to quickly cut and level large primed panels and prep them for repriming, whereas the 320 grit is used as a finishing sandpaper prior to applying the final seal coat.

• Norton 80-grit DA sandpaper #31480, 80-grit sanding disc #31481, 180-grit DA sandpaper #31477, and 320-grit sandpaper #31473: 6-inch-round discs that can be used for many tasks, including removing old paint (80 grit), feathering back old paint around repair areas (180 grit), and final sanding areas not requiring primer (320 grit)

• Speed-Lok grinding disc #38675 and Speed-Lok disc #9185: grind and clean difficult to reach areas

• Bear-Tex Scuff Pads #58000: use anywhere light sanding is needed

• PSA 1000- and 1500-grit discs #31552, #31550: for final sanding clear coats

• ¾-inch-wide masking tape #2492: masks off panels or areas of the car not being painted

The result of using the above-mentioned supplies is the need for a top-quality line of refinishing products. For those, I’ve turned to PPG Automotive Refinishing. I’ll explain the necessary additives and mixing ratios once I am ready to use the products. Here is a list of the primary products I’ll be using on this project:

PHOTO 6: Norton body repair supplies. Left to right: 40-grit sandpaper; 80-grit sandpaper; 3-inch, 24-grit sanding disk and arbor; 3-inch cutoff wheels (for use with a die grinder); 24-grit, 5-inch grinder disk; ¾-inch-wide masking tape; structural adhesive; assorted DA sandpaper including 80, 180, and 320 grits; assorted rolled sandpaper including 80, 180, and 320 grits; and a box of scuff pads.

PHOTO 7: PPG professional grade refinishing products. Left to right, top to bottom: DCU 2002 clear, D8072 sealer, D8005 primer/surfacer, DP74LF epoxy primer, DBI black, and BC base coat.

• PPG DCU 2002 Concept Polyurethane Clear: a high quality clear coat used for overall spray applications chosen simply on the merit of my experience with the product

• PPG 2K Chromatic Sealer D8085: a dark gray sealer designed for use over D8005 chromatic 2K AChromatic Surfacer, which is also part of the PPG Global refinishing system

• D8005 2K A-Chromatic Surfacer: a light gray primer/surfacer taken from the PPG Global Re-finishing System and used to cover the epoxy coated surfaces as well as all areas of the vehicle that have been filled or repaired

PHOTO 8: DeVilbiss GFG 670 Plus gravity feed spray gun and the DeVilbiss Sri 630 mini-spray gun.

• PPG DP74LF Epoxy Primer: an epoxy primer that is red oxide in color to match the base primer coat color Ford applied to the vehicle during manufacturing

• Base color coats: colors selected for this car are PPG Global BC #43644 Augusta green poly, and PPG Deltron 2000 DBI 9600 black

For applying the above listed paint products, I’ve selected the following spray guns:

• DeVilbiss GFG 670 Plus spray gun: comes with three different spray tips, 1.2, 1.3, and 1.4 mm and requires 9 cfm at 30 psi when spraying clear coats

• DeVilbiss Sri 630 mini–spray gun: ideal gun for getting into all those tight areas

• Binks M1-G HVLP spray gun: primarily used to spray primer coats and base color coats

SOME GROUND RULES

Total restorations begin from the ground up, and normally that means finding a good working height for the car itself. But in this case, the car is air conditioned, and that means before the car can be disabled and placed on jack stands, the system must be checked by a qualified air conditioning service center to determine if it still holds a charge (many old systems are not charged because of their age). If charged, the service center will drain the system using the appropriate capture equipment. This is not a do-it-yourself operation. Air conditioning system repair requires specific equipment used by certified technicians. Most important, these systems must never be drained into the atmosphere. It is illegal and extremely harmful to the planet.

The good news is that this air conditioning system contains R-12 Freon worth between $30.00 and $90.00 per pound once collected and cleaned. I’ll use that as a bartering chip, I hope, to make a trade with the repair station.

With the car back at the shop, my first step will be to disconnect the battery. My next step will be to place this car at a comfortable working height. I stand about six feet tall, so 18 inches off the floor is about right for me. Depending upon your height, you may want the car positioned either higher or lower. To achieve that height, I’ll set the car on jack stands. To ensure a degree of safety, I’ll also add a 12 x 12 x 1–inch thick wooden platform under each jack stand to prevent the steel jack stands from slipping on the hard concrete floor. Normally, jack stands are placed under the suspension components just inboard of each wheel to properly support the vehicle. But since I will be removing the suspension from this car in the near future, that placement won’t work.

A Mustang is a unibody vehicle, meaning this car doesn’t have a bolt-on frame assembly supporting the drivetrain and suspension components, so placing the jack stands under the frame assembly is out. What I can do is place the jack stands under the unibody frame rails to give the car sufficient support without having the jack stands in the way once I’m ready to remove the suspension components.

The next step in jacking up a car is to compensate for overhang once the car is on the jack stands. Overhang is a body shop term used to describe a condition caused when a vehicle is supported by means other than the suspension, which leaves the engine to basically overhang the front of the unibody structure. This overhang causes undue stress on the body and can result in twisting the body out of alignment. A telltale sign of this overhang effect is to mount the car on the jack stands and open the doors. With the engine still in the car, the doors may not shut. They are suddenly out of alignment due to the weight of the engine straining against the unibody structure.

PHOTO 9: Project Mustang positioned in the shop and placed on jack stands. Notice the wooden platforms under the jack stands to prevent the stands from slipping on the hard concrete. The height measures approximately 18 inches from the floor to the rocker panel.

To compensate for this strain, I place a hydraulic jack under the front cross member and apply just enough upward pressure with the jack to relieve the stress on the unibody structure. The stress has been compensated for when the doors once again open and close without binding. At this point, all four wheels can be removed from the car to allow for better access under the car.

TIP

A little duct tape wrapped around the wheel studs will help protect the threads from damage once the drums are removed from the car.

DRAIN THE FLUIDS

The next step is to drain all the fluids from the vehicle. In this case, that means draining the radiator of antifreeze, the engine of oil, and the transmission of fluid. The Freon has already been drained from the air conditioner.

Radiators are drained via a petcock found near the bottom radiator hose. Be sure to remove the radiator cap to prevent a vacuum within the system. Engines are drained of oil via a drain plug found at the lowest point on the oil pan. Don’t forget to remove the oil filter while under the car. The automatic transmission is drained by carefully removing the square pan on the bottom of the unit. Begin by loosening all 13 of the pan bolts by at least two full turns. Gently pry the pan loose from the case housing. Fluid should begin to flow from around the edges of the pan. Slowly remove the pan bolts one at a time, allowing the pan to tip and begin to drain. Once drained of fluid, the pan must be reinstalled on the transmission to prevent contamination. Properly dispose of all of the old fluids at a local recycling center. Check the Yellow Pages for the center nearest you.

THE TEARDOWN BEGINS

If it is bright and shiny, soft and spongy, or clear and hard, it needs to come off. I want this car stripped of everything but the drivetrain and sheet metal. The drivetrain stays for now because it is easier to remove its items once everything else has been removed. The sheet metal stays because there are too many body lines on this car that don’t line up. Once everything else has been removed from the car, I’ll spend a little quality time with a body hammer and pry bar getting the panels aligned. I’ll concentrate first on tearing down the front of the car then move to the back of the car. I’ll save the interior and glass removal for chapter 3.

PHOTO 10: To compensate for overhang caused by stress on the unibody structure from the weight of the engine, a hydraulic jack is placed under the front cross member with just enough upward bias to support the weight of the engine.

As I disassemble this unit, I note the condition of each molding on the master list for use later when I’m ready to start placing orders for new parts. I also take the time to lay out each part in the order it was removed from the car in an exploded view (much like the illustrations in parts catalogs) and take photographs. These photographs will become extremely valuable a year from now when I’ll be trying to determine what goes where. Don’t forget to number and date all of the photographs once they are developed. This not only gives you an exploded view but also gives you a chronological sequence of events that can be reversed once assembly begins.

TEARING DOWN THE FRONT

I’m working from the front of the car to the rear. I start with the shiny parts on the front of the car. With the exception of the valance panel, everything up here mounts behind the bumper. That means the valance panel has to be removed before the bumper can be removed, and the bumper has to be removed before most of the bolts holding the grille assembly can be accessed for removal.

PHOTO 11: The front bumper is bolted directly to the unibody frame rails and can be removed only after the valance panel has been removed.

PHOTO 12: An exploded view of the grille parts removed from the front of the car. Everything is laid out as it would be found on the car to make assembly easier later on.

To remove the valance, I need to remove several bolts that hold it in place: two on each end, four across the width. I also need to unplug two parking lamps.

To remove the bumper, I remove the two mounting bolts on either side of the front frame rails plus an additional bolt behind each fender near the outermost corners of the bumper. I’m removing the bumper as a unit and will disassemble it later.

Before removing the grille, I had a question about the authenticity of the fog lamps that were mounted on the grille. Ford used several different fog lamps, most of which were round, whereas Shelby had a tendency to use rectangular Lucas brand fog lamps. At first, these Lucas brand lamps appear to be too large for this car, but upon closer inspection, I found the appropriate Ford number, C8WZ-15L 203 A, taken from a 1968 Ford parts book to verify that these are indeed the correct fog lamps for this vehicle.

The grille assembly goes next. This includes all of the moldings surrounding the grille as well as the front molding on the hood. This molding is considered part of the grille and should be stored along with those parts.

Although the headlamp housings could be considered part of the grille assembly, I’m going to leave both of them on the car for now because they will be used to align the front sheet metal panels. Since they bolt directly to the front of the fenders, they will affect the way the fenders align with the hood. They not only have a direct bearing on the gaps between the hood and the fenders but also help determine how far forward the hood can be adjusted, as the leading edge of the hood must align with the leading edge of each headlamp housing once everything has been properly adjusted.

TEARING DOWN THE REAR

After disassembling the front of the car, I move to the rear. The rear bumper mounts with four bolts found inside the trunk compartment above the floor pan on the right and left sides. Once removed, the rear bumper is stored with the front bumper.

The taillamps are mounted in a rear body finish panel with the entire unit being mounted to the rear body panel. I unbolt this unit from the inside of the trunk and remove it as one piece.

Behind the taillamps are the original lamp openings for the Mustang-style taillamps, and these openings have been filled with specially made enclosures. I remove these enclosures and store them with other parts that will require refinishing.

Under the bumper is the rear valance panel. I leave the backup lamp assemblies in the panel for now and remove the valence panel as a complete assembly.

The first model year for factory installed side marker lamps was 1968. Ford’s better idea was to opt for reflectors instead of lamps. I remove these along with the name plates and store them with the taillamp assemblies.

PHOTO 13: An exploded view of the rear body panel components.