Читать книгу Action Cook Book - Len Deighton - Страница 12

Here are some items from my own notebook. It is by no means complete, because no notebook of this sort ever can be. Use these observations as a basis for notes of your own. You obviously won’t buy items that are shrivelled, decaying, discoloured or limp. Most fruit and vegetables suffer severely from delay in transit; go for the freshest you can get.

Lettuce, chicory and cabbage have more nutriment in the outer leaves than inside. Don’t trim too much away. Keep skins on potatoes wherever possible; mashed potatoes will be more flavourful if you cook the potatoes in their jackets, remove skins after cooking. Anyway, what’s wrong with putting the mashed potato back into the jackets again and serving it in them?

Water used in the cooking process will capture much of the nutriment. Therefore, use little or no water, or use the water in soup, gravy or sauce. Vegetable water will go bad quickly; it should be used in the same meal for which the vegetable was cooked. Don’t add it to stock unless the stock is brought to the boil every day.

Mashing or creaming is good for root vegetables (potatoes, turnips, swedes or carrots, etc.) and there are many ways of serving them. Butter is most usual, but try a little cream, or poach some cut-up marrow bones (ask the butcher) until the marrow inside is very soft, then scoop this out and use it on the vegetable like butter. A little pork dripping (make it by frying pieces of belly of pork) adds flavour. Mashed vegetables can look like hell. Make them more appetizing by fluffing the top and grilling it for a couple of minutes till the peaks brown (a few breadcrumbs scattered over it before grilling will help it go golden). A pinch of paprika or a spoonful of finely chopped hard-boiled egg yolk is also decorative.

Many vegetables benefit from a final few minutes in a pan with a little oil or butter. Drain fat off before serving.

Soup Making. Use a generous amount of the vegetable you choose—nothing can get over the lack of the basic flavour. For example, put half an onion finely chopped into a pan with some butter or oil. When the onion is golden, add two or three pounds of roughly chopped tomatoes, scattering salt, pepper, a little basil (see Herb section) and a small spoonful of sugar. Lid on—low heat, and you will find that the juice comes out of the tomatoes. When they are very soft (say half an hour), sieve. Now you can decide how much liquid to add. Use milk or stock or water. Add a knob of butter or cream. Adjust the seasoning. Serve.

Not all vegetables will make their own juice like tomatoes, so most will have to be started with water, but don’t swamp your flavour with water—it tastes of nothing. Sieving helps to distribute the flavour through the liquid instead of providing a tasty mouthful of flavour, so only leave pieces in the soup if you have a generous amount of flavour already. The same basic system will give you thousands of soups. Try making soup from: cucumber, leeks, peas, white fish, asparagus, mushrooms, etc.

If you have no stock, remember that you can put some item in the soup that will add flavour (e.g. a ham bone). If you want your soup a little thicker, think before adding flour or even arrowroot. Grated potato (it will need a few minutes to cook) provides a thick creamy texture, but don’t overdo it.

When buying remember that those large items that win prizes in displays are no friend to the cook. Better to choose the tiny, flavourful vegetables. Those enormous carrots, parsnips and beetroots may look gorgeous, but they have hearts of wood. Only enormous field mushrooms grow more flavourful with size. Tiny peas are no relation of the large ones, and the tiny flattened pods of peas (pois mange tout) that are eaten pods and all, are perhaps the finest vegetable there is.

Apples. A vast field of experiment and controversy. Learn a few types. There are apples from countries as near as France and as distant as New Zealand. They vary considerably in crispness. Three of the finest English apples (Cox’s Orange Pippin, Ellison’s Orange and Laxton’s Superb) are fine eating apples of medium-crisp texture. Beauty of Bath and Jonathans are soft eating apples. Newtowns and Granny Smiths are quite hard quality eaters. Blenheim Orange is well worth searching for, it’s a delicious English apple with a fine astringent flavour.

In England cooking apples are usually mushy—Victoria, Lord Derby or Bramley’s Seedling; cooks who want apples that will retain their shapes should try using dessert apples, which are less acid, for their pies, etc., as they do in other countries.

Apricots. Too often regarded as a poor man’s peach, they really have a life of their own. Available in winter from South Africa, but the Spanish ones on sale in the summer are great. Buy the biggest. Green ones will ripen in the sun. ‘Peach apricots’ from Murcia in Spain are superb dessert-quality ones.

Asparagus. Tips should be close and compact, stalks large and even in size. Cut away the tough white stalks. Dip the green tips into beaten egg, then fry gently. Or, after the beaten egg, dip into soft crumbs mixed with equal quantities of grated cheese before frying; or steam it and serve with butter.

Aubergines (Egg Plant or Brinjal). Look like black rubber truncheons. Go for a shiny, smooth, purple skin. Fry or bake. These are generally sliced (thick or thin), then fried gently. Another way is to scoop out the interior, chop it small and fry it gently with some chopped onion. When it is quite soft, replace in the hollow aubergine. Bake at Regulo 5 (375° F.) for 30 minutes.

Avocadoes. Large, expensive, delicious cross between fruit and vegetable. Best eaten with simple vinaigrette sauce. Green ones may be a little underripe; test for softness around stalk or rely on your greengrocer. The biggest are not always the best, but those from Madeira or Israel are reliably excellent. They will ripen quickly in a warm place.

Banana. See pages 298-9.

Beans. This word is used to describe three different things in the kitchen. First there is the green vegetable eaten while the seeds inside are soft and only partly grown. These vary from the slim tiny ones to the gross coarse ones that are like boiled sandpaper to eat. Secondly there are the beans that are the seeds themselves. When young they are good to eat as they are, but old ones must have the outer layer of skin removed. Thirdly there are these same seeds dried to preserve them. I have listed these last beans as pulses.

Beetroot. Size doesn’t matter. If you buy them ready-cooked make sure the skin is loose and flesh dark red. Cooked beetroots sometimes exude a mould; it is quite harmless—wash it off.

Blackberries. Cultivated ones are less flavourful than wild ones. Large bright ones are best.

Blackcurrants. Are mostly bought by the soft-drink industry, so price remains high. Large ones are easiest to trim. Be sure they are not leaking juice as it’s a sign of bad condition.

Broccoli. A winter vegetable widely available frozen—try it fresh. Eat the stalks and flowers too, unless they are yellow, in which case don’t buy any. Gardeners should plant ‘Purple sprouting’.

Brussels Sprouts. Buy only the small, compact ones or, if possible, the very tiny ones. Mix sour cream with finely chopped onion, warm it, pour over cooked sprouts. Gardeners should try ‘Aristocrat’.

Cabbage. Heaviness is good—it shows compactness. Gardeners might like ‘Velocity’. White is the crispest.

Red. Heavy, slightly tasteless—the correct thing for preparing with apple and sugar in the continental manner.

Savoy. Use this for eating raw (e.g. Coleslaw).

Drumhead. Good cooking cabbage.

Stuffed Cabbage. Remove large outer leaves of cabbage, give them a minute in boiling water. Drain and dry. Into each leaf wrap a heap of meat mixture, make it into a little parcel, fixing it with a toothpick. Bake in the oven at Regulo 2 (325° F.) for 40 minutes, either on a greased tin or in a sauce (a tin of soup: tomato, chicken or mushroom, etc.). The meat mixture can be ground beef, lamb, veal or pork (in which case make sure it is cooked right through—I cannot tell you the exact timing as it depends on the size of the ‘parcels’). It should be well flavoured with spice, herbs, onion, salt and pepper.

Carrots. None in the shops equal fresh garden ones, and the jet-spray washed ones are awful. Gardeners should plant ‘Early Nantes’. In the shops watch for the very first English ones for flavour, also the Dutch and French ones are very fine. Otherwise you can improve them by bringing out the flavour with a final sauté in butter to caramelize the sugar content.

Cauliflower. Buy them with plenty of leaf protecting the white part, and they will keep several days. The white must be hard and not discoloured. Cauliflower can be mashed and creamed, or puréed, with beaten egg, and steamed like a custard pudding. It can be fried or poached in stock. It can be served hot with a cheese sauce or fried almonds or chopped hard egg yolk as a garnish. It can be allowed to cool, and dressed with vinaigrette or deep-fried in batter. Or use it raw in salads.

Celeriac. Is a rough-looking root of a certain celery plant. Peel it, then treat the inside like a potato—cook it in salted water, drain, then roll it in butter.

Celery. Go for the large size with fresh-looking greenery still attached. If you can choose, buy the soil-encrusted ones. Wash well just before using it. Braise it in the oven with a little butter (well-fitting lid on casserole). The heart can be removed and gently fried. The extreme leaves are left in a warm place to dry, then used as a flavouring for soups and stews. Add pieces of celery to a stew five minutes before serving to get a crunchy fresh taste. Dip it into fondue or any cheese sauce, or spread cream cheese into hollow side for canapés.

Corn on the Cob. Choose large plump ears with even-sized kernels. Each kernel should be very juicy inside. Corn should be stripped of its outer leaf and put into fast-boiling, unsalted water for 10-20 minutes. Serve with plenty of melted butter, and a large napkin for wiping the mouth.

Cherries. Many varieties, when the season hits us. Napoleon is one fine example (piebald yellow and red), but unless you are sure of your knowledge, or your greengrocer, choose the darkest varieties for eating. Morello is a piquant cherry for cooking in pies or compotes.

Chicory (French: endive). Is like a small white artillery shell. It needs no washing and can be served raw, or braised (with stock or butter), but be sure that the tips of the leaf are yellow, not green. You will note that in England endive is a curly-leaved salad vegetable, which in U.S.A. is called escarole, and in France, chicorée. So sort that lot out.

Chillies. Are tiny red or green pods. They are very, very hot. Use them to flavour vinegar by leaving a couple in the bottle, or use them with discretion in a curry recipe. Note that long cooking lessens the strength somewhat. Unused chillies can be left to dry to a crisp, then stored in a jar. Warning: don’t wipe your eyes after handling them.

Clementines. Are a type of tangerine without seeds. The Italian ones are the best. They are never very cheap.

Courgettes. Tiny marrows. Buy them only less than five inches long, cook gently without peeling until they are tender. Serve with butter.

Courgettes with Walnuts. Fry the tiny marrows in oil for five minutes (with a little onion if you wish). Add a little wine and water and a squeeze of lemon juice. Cook for ten minutes, then add walnuts.

Cranberries. In the late autumn they are widely available. Serve cooked unsweetened cranberries with game or poultry.

Cucumbers. Rough-skinned outdoor ones are richer in flavour, although sometimes a little bitter. Go for long slim ones. Colour doesn’t matter except that yellowness is not good. Always cut them into chunks, and, unless you hate it, leave the skin on, for this makes them more digestible. Serve them lightly and very slowly cooked in butter, or raw; either way sour cream makes a great dressing.

Custard Apples. Large green fruit with creamy flesh. Eat it as it is. It is good with sugar and cream.

Endive (French: chicorée). It has a mild bitterness. In France it is often served cooked. Neither way is it very interesting to me, but use it as a salad vegetable, or braise it in stock or butter if you want to give it a whirl.

Fennel. Looks like potbellied celery, tastes like liquorice. Slice it or leave it whole, braise it or leave it raw.

Figs. Fresh figs make a pleasant end to a meal. Only the soft red inside is eaten. Sometimes cream is served with them, but a good one will stand alone.

Dried Figs. Ugh.

French Beans. Stringless, tender and flavourful. Cook them whole with butter. Gardeners should try ‘The Prince’.

Globe Artichokes. Avoid ones with any trace of purple flower.

Gooseberries. Go for Sussex-grown ones. Some varieties are very sour, but are excellent for jams and jellies.

Grapes. Endless varieties from countless countries. Unless you are an expert, go for the dark ones (same for cherries). Colmar is a type of grape grown in many places. The English Colmar is a superb dessert grape. Belgian and South African Colmar are almost as good. Small seedless grapes from various Mediterranean countries are a treat, unless you enjoy chewing the pips, and eating them, too, as they do in most grape-growing areas.

Grapefruit. Keep well. Buy heavy ones, they will be juiciest.

Green Beans. Must snap when broken and should be moist inside. Fry some chopped bacon and a diced red pepper (don’t use the seeds). When cooked, add vinegar and sugar in about equal quantities. Some cooks add mustard or pepper sauce to this recipe. When sugar has dissolved, pour this over cooked beans. Mix well. Serve. (Wax beans are the yellow ones.)

Greengages. A member of the plum family. Unless you know someone who grows them you will be best advised to buy French ones. South African are quite good.

Green Peppers (Capsicums, Pimentoes or Sweet Peppers). Are a large firm vegetable, sometimes red, according to how long they are left to grow. Remove all the seeds, which are very peppery; the flesh can be eaten raw. In the Middle East they favour their green peppers scorched. In England they are generally stuffed with meat and rice, and cooked in a moderate oven. A simple way, however, is to quarter them, remove seeds, brush with oil and bake for 15 minutes at Regulo 4 (350° F.).

Japanese Artichokes are small twisted ones. Treat just like Jerusalem artichokes.

Jerusalem Artichokes are strange relatives of the sunflower, and have a delicate earthy taste. They are tricky to peel, so go for the smoothest ones. Boil or steam them until tender (30 minutes?), then peel them, roll in butter, serve. Another popular way is to sieve the skins away from purée after cooking, using the purée for soup, or adding cream and butter before serving as a vegetable. They can be eaten raw.

Kale. A rather tough cabbage-type vegetable with a taste resembling the spinach family. Gardeners should try ‘Asparagus Kale’.

Leeks. Suspect any that are too carefully manicured. Small, even-sized ones are better in flavour than the very large ones. Leeks are superb braised in butter or stock. Serve them with a sauce (e.g. cheese), or make a leek-and-potato soup with a dash of cream. This latter is very good served chilled.

Lemons. Bad skins do not always indicate bad fruit, but the skin is a valuable item in kitchen and bar.

Lettuce. Buy fresh, sprightly ones that haven’t been standing in water to revive them. Don’t buy ones that already have the outer leaves removed, they are probably ancient. Ask for a ‘Webbs Wonder’, which is an especially crisp variety. Imported lettuces are just as good as home-grown, providing they are fresh. Gardeners might like ‘Webbs Wonder’, too.

Limes. These are less common than lemons. The juice is exquisite—iced lime juice (sweetened as you want) is a drink of the gods.

Loganberries are the big brothers of the raspberry. They are much more interesting for my money, especially to serve raw with cream and sugar. Nowadays you only see them in country towns.

Lychees are a soft juicy fruit with a flavour of roses. Discard the parchment-like outer skin, eat the soft flesh uncooked.

Mandarins. Just like tangerines. You either like them, or you don’t. (See Oranges.)

Mangoes. Wildly expensive, but eaten fresh a sensation. Not to be confused with the tinned variety which is not sensational at all.

Marrow. A tough, tasteless vegetable that wins prizes at garden shows.

Medlars. Strange, stunted, apple-like fruit eaten when soft and seeming over-ripe. Worth trying, if only as a curiosity.

Melons

Cantaloupe. Go for those with thick, closely woven ‘netting’ with yellow or yellow/green between netting pattern. Tender orange inside. It should have a rich smell. Imported—expensive until summer. Don’t cut more than a few minutes before serving, even to cool.

Tiger Melon. Is very similar, but with a smooth skin. A real Tiger Melon is even better than a Net Cantaloupe.

Honeydew. White rind is immature, it should be cream-colour. Flesh is more like that of a watermelon and so they are cheaper than the above varieties. Go for the ones from Spain, sometimes marked ‘Elche’. On South African honeydews, ‘Geest’ is the label to search for. ‘Prince of Wales’ is another superb mark.

Charentais. Sent from France, are the kings of the melon world, although some gourmets go for Afghan ones. They are almost never cheap, but they are worth paying for—highly scented, sweet and pungent.

Watermelon. Very watery flesh. Beware of damaged ones as they rapidly deteriorate.

Mushrooms. Sensational whatever their size, shape or colour. The very light underside shows a very young mushroom, but gigantic plate-sized mushrooms have their place in cooking too. Try them all, and keep some in a dark place in the kitchen, but never in the refrigerator—they hate cold. Cultivated mushrooms do not need peeling. Sometimes wild mushrooms appear in the shops, but the real gourmet will stalk the choicest varieties with a good textbook in one hand.

Mustard and Cress is a mass of tiny green leaves on thin stalks, that looks like something out of a science-fiction film. It is really rape, and is useful for decorating hot or cold dishes, e.g. roast poultry, sliced galantine, or baked sole.

Nectarines. A superb type of plum. You must try one. South African ones in winter (see Food in Season section).

Onions. See pages 254-5.

Oranges. There are three different types of orange. There is the China or sweet orange—that’s the ordinary orange as we know it. There is the Seville, which is a bitter orange for cooking with duck, pork, etc., and for making marmalade. Lastly, there is the mandarin, which is a small, flattened, loose-skinned type of orange that originated in China thousands of years ago. There are several varieties of mandarin—tangerine, satsuma and clementine—some of them have no pips. When buying ordinary oranges, choose the thin-skinned, smooth ones. Heaviest are best. Israel oranges are exceptionally good, particularly the real Jaffa. Outspan is a selection from the South African crop, and Navel is the choicest variety when the Spanish crop takes the stage. In January and February both Seville oranges and Aylesbury ducks are in the shops. Like all citrus fruits, oranges will give you more juice if heated before squeezing.