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Crazy Nine-Patch

You'll have fun using up some of your fabric stash on this quilt. Nine different squares of fabric are piled up and cut into pieces through all the layers at the same time. The pieces are then reassembled following a mathematical formula (which I've worked out for you) to make nine blocks, each with a different arrangement of all nine fabrics. The pieces of fabric in each block are joined with narrow contrasting sashing strips, while different coloured strips separate the finished blocks. Much time is saved by cutting all the blocks at the same time. Each block looks different from the others because the pieces are rearranged, although the stages of construction are the same each time.

Crazy in Amsterdam

THE QUILT STORY

The fabric collection I used for this quilt was bought in Amsterdam at vast expense and then hoarded for some years. There were only eight in the original group, so I had to search my stash to find an extra one that would join the team, plus a good background fabric and another for the sashing. I first made nine blocks using this layer-cake technique (blocks marked A in Fig 1). Then I found I hadn't enough of those nine fabrics to repeat the blocks, so I reversed the design, using my sashing fabric for the nine-patch blocks and an assortment of the nine original fabrics for the sashing strips (blocks B in Fig 1). Finally, I added eight plain squares of fabric, which were arranged between the others and quilted in the same nine-patch design (blocks C in Fig 1).

Fig 1

Finished size of block 10½in × 10½in (26.7cm × 26.7cm)

Finished size of quilt 61in × 61in (155cm × 155cm)

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

• One fat quarter (either a ¼yd or ¼m) each of nine fabrics that will look good together in the first set of blocks (A). These will make the cut squares that are layered to make the design and are also used for sashing strips on the second set of nine-patch blocks (B).

• 1¾yd (1.6m) of a contrast fabric for narrow sashing in the first set of blocks (A) and the main fabric in the second set of blocks (B).

• 1½yd (1.37m) of a third fabric to make the C blocks (not pieced but quilted) and also for the final border.

• Wadding and backing fabric: at least 2in (5cm) larger than finished quilt size.

This quilt grows satisfyingly quickly as the nine A blocks are worked on at the same time. They all grow at the same rate and are finished simultaneously.

“This crazy nine-patch quilt has a versatile design that will make good use of fabrics you already have, or give you an excuse to rush out and buy new stock…”

Construction

MAKING SET A BLOCKS

1 From each of the chosen nine fabrics cut a square measuring 11½in × 11½in (29.2cm × 29.2cm). For the sashing strips for this first set of blocks cut thirty-six strips each 1in × 12¼in (2.5cm × 31.1cm) from the chosen sashing fabric.

2 Cut nine squares of freezer paper about 1in (2.5cm) square. Number these 1–9. Place one roughly in the centre of each fabric square on the right side and fix it to the fabric by pressing with an iron on cool. Alternatively, fix with a safety pin.

Do not use masking tape to fix the numbered labels on your fabric as it will leave a sticky deposit if the iron touches it when the block is being pressed during construction.

3 Pile up the marked fabric squares in order, with square 1 at the top and 9 at the bottom, matching up the edges of the squares carefully.

Making the wedge template

4 On a piece of graph paper draw a horizontal line 11½in (29.2cm) long. At the left end draw a vertical line downwards 4in (10.2cm) long. At the right end draw a vertical line downwards 2½in (6.4cm) long. Join these two lines from a to b to complete the wedge shape (Fig 2).

Fig 2

5 Cut out the wedge template carefully. Use masking tape to stick the template to the underside of a rotary ruler with right side upwards and the sloping edge a–b level with one long edge of the ruler (Fig 3).

Fig 3

Cutting the squares

6 1^st cut: place the ruler on the pile of fabric squares with the edges of the wedge template matching the edges of the fabric squares. Cut through all layers (Fig 4).

Fig 4

I used a large 60mm rotary cutter to cut through all nine layers in one go. If you find nine layers too many to cut accurately, separate the piles into 1–4 and 5–9. Cut each pile and reassemble the cut squares with square 1 at the top and 9 at the bottom. There are no prizes for cutting all the layers at once – accuracy and comfort of cutting with the rotary cutter are what matter.

Adding the sashing strip

7 Pin and stitch a 12¼in (31.1cm) length of 1in (2.5cm) wide sashing fabric to each of the smaller pieces of the cut squares (Fig 5). Press the seam towards the sashing, ironing from the front. Trim the ends of the sashing strips to match the edges of the fabric.

Fig 5

8 Place the smaller section of each block back with the larger sections in the correct order of layers to match the larger pieces as before.

9 Take the marked larger pieces 1 and 2 and move them to the bottom of the pile of marked pieces, still in the same order. This will leave the piece marked 3 at the top and piece 2 at the bottom. Do not alter the smaller unmarked pieces (Fig 6).

Fig 6

10 Pin and stitch the two pieces of each block together, matching the cut ends of the sashing with the larger piece of fabric to make a square (Fig 7). Iron the seams towards the sashing, as before.

Fig 7

11 Pile the squares up in layers as before, still with piece number 1 at the top and number 9 at the bottom. Align the edges of each block carefully.

12 2^nd cut: place the ruler on the blocks with the edges of the template matching the edges of the blocks as in Fig 8. Cut through all layers.

Fig 8

13 Pin and stitch a 12¼in (31.1cm) length of sashing to each of the smaller wedge shapes as before (Fig 9). This time do not trim the ends of the sashing level with the edges of the fabric after stitching. Press the seams towards the sashing, ironing from the front.

Fig 9

14 Place the smaller pieces back with their partners in the pile, with the piece marked 1 at the top as before and piece 9 at the bottom.

15 Take the large marked pieces 1–6 and move them to the bottom of the pile. It should now have piece 7 at the top and piece 6 at the bottom. Do not alter the smaller unmarked pieces (Fig 10).

Fig 10

16 Stitch together the two sections of each layer to make squares as before, aligning the sashing on both pieces to form a ‘crossroads’ (Fig 11, plus see advice panel, right, Figs 12a, 12b and 13). Press the seam towards the sashing, ironing from the front. Trim the sashing to match the edges of the block and then pile up the blocks as before with piece number 1 at the top and piece 9 at the bottom.

Fig 11

MATCHING SASHING STRIPS ON A SLANTING ANGLE

This can be tricky. First find the centre of the slanting edge on each piece by folding as in Figs 12a and 12b. Crease to mark each centre. Match the centre of the stitching line and pin the junction of the sashing with a horizontal pin (Fig 13). Open up the two pieces to check that the sashings are matched before pinning at right angles as usual along the fabric edges, matching the ends of each section of the block carefully.

Fig 12a

Fig 12b

Fig 13

17 3^rd cut: before cutting, remove the wedge template carefully from the ruler. Turn it over and stick it back to the underside of the ruler. This reverses the template for the remaining two cuts (Fig 14). Now use the template on the ruler to cut the blocks as shown in Fig 15.

Fig 14

Fig 15

18 Pin and stitch a length of sashing to the smaller sections of the block as before. Place these back with their partners in the pile, keeping the blocks in order with piece 1 at the top and piece 9 at the bottom.

19 Move the large pieces marked 1–4 to the bottom of the pile, leaving piece 5 on the top and piece 4 at the bottom. Do not alter the smaller pieces.

20 join the two cut sections of each block with the sashing to make squares as before (Fig 16).

Fig 16

Match the sashing crossroads as carefully as possible (see advice panel Crazy and Figs 12a, 12b and 13 on previous page). Press the seams towards the sashing and then trim the ends of the sashing strips level with the edges of the block. Now pile up the blocks as usual with the marked piece 1 on the top and piece 9 on the bottom.

21 4^th cut: use the wedge template on the ruler to make the last cut (Fig 17).

Fig 17

22 Pin and stitch a sashing strip to the smaller section of each block. Press towards the sashing. Reassemble the blocks in order with the marked piece 1 on the top and piece 9 on the bottom.

23 Move the large pieces marked 1–3 to the bottom of the pile, leaving piece 4 on the top and piece 3 on the bottom. Do not alter the smaller pieces.

24 Join the two parts of each block together with sashing as before. This time there will be two crossroads of sashing to be aligned, so match them carefully before stitching. Press from the front as usual and trim the ends of the sashing strips level with the sides of the block (Fig 18).

Fig 18

25 Trim the finished blocks to measure 11in × 11in (27.9cm × 27.9cm).

MAKING SET B BLOCKS

1 Here only eight blocks need to be made and the fabrics are reversed, so the sashing fabric from Set A is used for the pile of eight squares and some or all of the main fabrics from Set A become the sashing strips in Set B. From the fabric used as the sashing in the A blocks cut eight squares, each measuring 11½in × 11½in (29.2cm × 29.2cm) as before. These do not have to be numbered as they are all from the same fabric. For the sashing cut thirtytwo strips from any or all of the nine fabrics used for the starting squares for the A blocks, each strip 1in × 12¼in (2.5cm × 31.1cm).

2 Remove the wedge template from the ruler, turn it over and stick it back to the underside of the ruler. This is the starting position it was in for cutting the blocks in Set A (see Fig 3).

3 Pile up the eight cut squares, matching the edges carefully. Now follow the instructions given in steps 6–25 for making the Set A blocks.

When making the B blocks, there is no need to rearrange the layers at any time as they are all the same fabric. So to save time, just cut, add the sashing strips, join together and pile up ready for the next cut. Don't forget to turn the wedge template over after the first two cuts.

MAKING SET C BLOCKS

From the chosen fabric cut eight squares each measuring 11in × 11in (27.9cm × 27.9cm) to match the trimmed blocks from Sets A and B. Use the wedge template as a guide to mark quilting lines in the same design as the pieced blocks (Fig 19).

Fig 19

The C blocks can be turned to link up the narrow sashing in adjacent blocks.

JOINING ALL THE BLOCKS

1 Arrange the twenty-five blocks to make your chosen design, five rows of five blocks (see Fig 1).

2 From the fabric chosen to act as sashing between the completed blocks cut twenty strips each 1in × 11in (2.5cm × 27.9cm). Pin and stitch a sashing strip between the blocks in each row (Fig 20). Press the seams towards the sashing, ironing from the front.

Fig 20

When you are arranging all of your blocks, remember that the individual blocks can be rotated in any direction to create different effects, so experiment before deciding on the final layout.

3 From the sashing fabric cut four strips each measuring 1in × 53in (2.5cm × 134.6cm). Pin and stitch these strips between the five rows of blocks (Fig 21). Press the seams towards the sashing.

ADDING THE BORDER

1 From the sashing fabric used between the blocks cut the following: two strips 1in × 53in (2.5cm × 134.6cm); two strips 1in × 61in (2.5cm × 154.9cm) and two strips 1in × 4in (2.5cm × 10.2cm). From the border fabric cut four strips each 4in × 53in (10.2cm × 134.6cm) and four cornerstone squares 4in × 4in (10.2cm × 10.2cm).

2 Join a cornerstone square of border fabric to either end of two of the long border strips with the 4in (10.2cm) lengths of sashing as in Fig 22. Press the seams into the sashing.

Fig 22

3 Pin and stitch one of the 53in (134.6cm) lengths of sashing to each of two lengths of border strip (Fig 23). Press the seams into the sashing.

Fig 23

4 Pin and stitch these to each side of the quilt (Fig 24). Press seams into the sashing.

Fig 24

5 In the same way pin and stitch the remaining sashing to the border strips with the cornerstones (Fig 25).

Fig 25

6 Stitch these to the top and bottom of the quilt, matching the ‘crossroads’ of sashing strips at the cornerstones carefully (Fig 26).

Fig 26

QUILTING

I machine quilted very closely to the sashing strips throughout the quilt in matching thread. I used thick per1é thread to hand quilt in a larger stitch in the centre block of each of the pieced blocks and also to create the nine-patch design on the plain squares (Fig 27). The final binding is in the same fabric used to sash between the blocks.

Fig 27

French Connection

Shirley Prescott made this design into a single bed quilt by making two sets of blocks in different red fabrics with white sashing and seventeen blocks with white as the main fabric and red strips for the sashing – a total of thirty-five blocks.

“I made this quilt for my step-granddaughter, Katy, for her 21st birthday. A limited set of colours made the geometric design quite striking. She must have liked the quilt as she took it off to France with her when she taught there for six months. (Shirley Prescott)”