Читать книгу Balinese Textiles - Marie-Louise Nabholz-Kartaschoff - Страница 5
ОглавлениеContents
Preface xiv
CHAPTER ONE
Textiles in Bali 1
• Origins 5
• Textiles as Semiotic Signs 8
CHAPTER TWO
Ikat Production in Transition 15
• Courtly Symbols of Status 15
• An Old Technique with New Potential 17
• Conditions of Production 23
• Different Types of Home-Work 27
• A Sidemen Manufactory 27
• Home-Work: Family and Commission Weaving 30
CHAPTER THREE
Golden Threads, Caste and Privilege 33
• A Glimpse of History 33
• A Flowering of Courtly Arts and Crafts 35
• Democratization of a Status Symbol 36
• Balinese Festive Dress 40
• An Extremely Specialized Craft 42
• Regional Songkèt Styles 44
CHAPTER FOUR
Gilded Garments for Humans, Gods and Temples 53
• Perada Patterns and Materials 53
• Perada Ornamentation 56
CHAPTER FIVE
Borderlines Between the Sacred and the Profane 59
• Sacred Cloth and Ritual Knowledge 60
• Releasing the Bound Energies 62
• Sacred Cloth in Rites of Passage 64
• 210-day Birthday Ritual 65
• Meeting the Gods of Love 70
• Clothing for Humans, Ancestors and Altars 72
CHAPTER SIX
Archaic Cloths from Nusa Penida 75
• Ritual Uses of Keling Cloths 76
CHAPTER SEVEN
The Dualism of Black and White 81
• Woven, Printed and Plaited Patterning 81
• Guardians, Stones and Trees 82
• Gods of the Netherworld 86
• Badges for Human Beings 89
• A Synthesis of Opposites 92
CHAPTER EIGHT
Sacred Textiles from Bali and Nusa Penida 95
• Archaic and Elaborate Production Methods 97
• Raiments for Humans and Ancestors 101
• Cepuk for Gods and Demons 107
• The Mysterious Power of the Cloths 113
CHAPTER NINE
Magical Protection and Communal Identity 117
• Forms and Fashions 119
• Protection and Distinction 121
• Rites of Passage 127
• Rules and Restraints 129
• Historical Background 130
Glossary 136
Bibliography 138
Index 140
Outer hip cloth for men (kampuh). Colored rayon and gold threads on silk. Presumably Tabanan, 1920-30, 162 x 112 cm. MEB lie 20294.
A procession of several Barong, Rangda and other sacred masked figures at a temple ceremony Presumably North Tabanan.
A Barong Landung couple and other gods at a melasti purification ritual. Gianyar, Singapadu,
