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ОглавлениеNestled between the Zambezi and Limpopo Rivers, Zimbabwe’s magic is her wildness, adventure, varied biodiversity, stunning scenery and resplendent wildlife. From teeming elephant herds in Hwange, the raw wildness of Mana Pools, outstanding natural beauty of the Matobo Hills or the surging waters of Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe’s diversity makes this one of Africa’s top safari destinations.
Spanning the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Victoria Falls is the largest waterfall by volume on Earth. Listen to the thundering sound as the water splurges voluminously across the rocks and watch the hovering mist of spray as it looms over the landscape.
Visit Hwange, Zimbabwe’s largest park, and witness wildlife dramas unfold before your eyes as vast herds of elephants along with antelope and predators concentrate around waterholes in the dry season.
Mana Pools offers the most exciting walking and canoe safaris on the continent. Walk up close to elephant and revel in the company of endangered African wild dogs.
Malilangwe is possibly the finest private reserve in Africa. Teeming with wildlife, this a spectacular setting for the discerning safarier.
Thought by some to be the land of King Solomon’s mines, Zimbabwe, formerly called Southern Rhodesia, is a country blessed with a patchwork of stunningly diverse landscapes that are the canvas for its excellent game parks. Tourism has increased greatly over the last several years, and is expected to increase further with the now operational new international airport at Victoria Falls. An important asset to the tourism industry, the airport acts as the gateway for safari travelers visiting Botswana and Zambia as well.
Most of Zimbabwe consists of a central plateau, 3,000 to 4,000 feet (915 to 1,220 m) above sea level, which is formed on one of the world’s oldest granite formations. The highveld, or high plateau, stretches from the southwest to the northeast from 4,000 to 5,000 feet (1,220 to 1,525 m) with a mountainous region along the eastern border from 6,000 to 8,000 feet (1,830 to 2,440 m) in altitude.
The northern international border with Zambia is framed by the mighty Zambezi River, while the “great, green” Limpopo River creates a natural boundary with South Africa in the south. Victoria Falls was created by a fracture in the Zambezi Valley, which is an extension of the Great Rift Valley. The granite shield forms the main watershed and boasts several spectacular rock formations. The central plateau, dominated by miombo woodland, is pleasantly moderate in temperature. The Eastern Highlands, comprised largely of sandstone and basalt mountains, are characterized by a cooler, wetter climate. The highest peaks rise more than 6,500 feet (2,000 m). Temperate forests occur in patches from Nyanga to Chimanimani, and sub-tropical forests are found in the humid lowlands of the Honde, Burma and Rusitu valleys that gradually ease into Mozambique. Zimbabwe’s western boundary is shared with Botswana and is dominated by deep Kalahari sands; a vast contrasting landscape that offers yet another unique environment for wildlife.
Sunset in Hwange National Park
Zimbabwe provides amazing elephant sightings
Winter days, between the months of May to August, are generally dry and sunny. October is the hottest month. The rainy season is December through March.
The Mashona and AmaNdebele constitute Zimbabwe’s major ethnic groups. About 50% of the population is syncretic (part Christian and part traditional beliefs), 25% Christian, 24% traditional and 1% Hindu and Muslim.
The country’s history is as diverse as its landscape. During the first century, the region was inhabited by the San; hunter gatherers, who left their legacy in the form of thousands of rock paintings, some of which are believed to be more than 30,000 years old.
Most famous, though, are the remains of an ancient imperial capital near the present day town of Masvingo that was built between 800 and 1500 AD. The stone structures, surrounded by the massive 11 feet tall Great Enclosure, were built by the people of Great Zimbabwe without the use of mortar or cement, and still stand to this day. This World Heritage Site is as enduring as it is impressive and inspirational.
Cecil Rhodes and the British South Africa Company took control of the country in 1890. It was named Southern Rhodesia and became a British colony in 1923. Prime Minister Ian Smith and the white minority declared unilateral independence from Britain on November 11, 1965. After a decade long civil war, Zimbabwe officially became independent on April 18, 1980, with Robert Mugabe as president.
Zimbabwe’s main foreign exchange earners are minerals, tobacco, agriculture and, more and more importantly, tourism.
Zimbabwe’s Wildlife Areas
Scenically stunning, with vast number of wild animals, Zimbabwe whispers of adventure; of encountering wildlife both from vehicle-based safari style itineraries and, perhaps even more exhilarating, game viewing by motorboat, canoeing, kayaking, rafting and travel by houseboat. It is, in fact, the best country in Africa for canoe safaris.
The country’s three top rated reserves include Hwange National Park in the west, Mana Pools National Park along the country’s northern border with Zambia and the Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, which is situated in the lowveld of south-eastern Zimbabwe.
Hwange National Park is most famous for its massive elephant population, numbering well over 25,000 individuals, and its numerous large water pans that attract a wide variety of wildlife. Mana Pools on the Zambezi River is probably Africa’s premier park for both walking and canoe safaris. Excitingly, it is also one the most likely places you may encounter the rare African wild dog. Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve teems with wildlife and is set in an area that is exceptionally beautiful. Apart from the “Big Five”, this private reserve boats one of the highest concentrations of black rhino, along with lesser seen antelope species such as the regal roan and majestic sable antelope.
Many of the country’s safari camps cater for a limited number of guests; from 8 to 16, ensuring personalized service, comfortable accommodations and superb guiding. The professional guiding standards in Zimbabwe are, in fact, considered the finest on the entire African continent.
Game viewing is by open vehicle, and walking is allowed with a licensed professional guide carrying a high-caliber rifle. Evening game drives are conducted in most of the reserves, offering an intriguing insight into the creatures of the night; from the smaller species such as genets and bush babies to the larger, such as civets, hyenas and leopards.
Zimbabwe is situated at the junction of three major climatic zones; temperate south, tropical northeast and semi-arid west which, as a consequence, attracts an astounding variety of wildlife. All of Africa’s big-game species are here, along with a staggering number of more than 660 bird species and a vast diversity of reptiles, frogs and invertebrates. Plant life is equally impressive, from Afro-alpine proteas in the east to tropical baobabs in the hot valleys of the north and south. The distinctive miombo woodlands, dominated by brachystegia trees, are characterized by a unique variety of plants and associated wildlife.
Male lions of Mana Pools
History does not tell us the thoughts or words Dr. David Livingstone must have thought and uttered when first glimpsing the magnificent, steamy Victoria Falls, but we do know that he subsequently wrote this in his journal: “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in flight.”
The falls are approximately 5,600 feet (1,700 m) wide; twice the height of Niagara Falls, and one and one-half times as wide. They are divided in five separate cascades of water: Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls, Horseshoe Falls, Rainbow Falls and Eastern Cataract, ranging in height from 200 to 355 feet (61 to 108 m).
Peak floodwaters usually occur around mid-April, causing some 150 million gallons (625 million liters) of water to crash down upon the rocky surface floor per minute and creating spray up to 1,650 feet (500 m) into the air. During March and April, there is so much water that the vast quantity of mist-like spray virtually obliterates the falls from sight, as if a great bellowing dragon in the pits of the earth has just roared its angry breath. Although May to February might be a slightly better time to see them, the falls nonetheless are spectacular any time of the year. A rainbow over the falls can often be seen during the day and a lunar rainbow within a 2- to 4-night period over a full moon. Guests are able to book a tour of the falls at night during the full moon period.
Both Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River form the natural border with Zambia. The banks of the 1,675-mile- (2,700-km) long Zambezi River, the fourth longest river in Africa and the only major river in Africa to flow into the Indian Ocean, are lined with thick riverine forest, offering a habitat to diverse species of fauna and flora.
It must be said that although Zambia shares Victoria Falls with Zimbabwe, it is widely agreed that the falls are more impressive on the Zimbabwean side—especially July to December when there is less water cascading to the pools below. The immediate area around the falls on the Zimbabwe side has not been hugely commercialized, and there are unobstructed views from many vantage points, which are connected by paved paths. An entry fee (currently US$30.00) is required. Be prepared to get wet as you walk through a luxuriant rain forest surrounding the falls as a direct result of the continuous spray. A path called the Chain Walk descends from near Livingstone’s statue into the gorge of the Devil’s Cataract provides an excellent vantage point.
Victoria Falls is famously known as the ‘Smoke that Thunders’
The Zambezi Nature Sanctuary is home to massive crocodiles up to 14 feet (4.3 m) in length and weighing close to 1,000 pounds (450 kg). For a little lighter relief, you can observe traditional tribal dancing during lavish feasts at the Boma Restaurant near the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge and at the Jungle Junction at the Victoria Falls Hotel. Visiting Big Tree won’t leave you disappointed; this giant, almost fairy-tale-like baobab tree is well over 50 feet (15 m) in circumference, 65 feet (20 m) high and estimated to be some 1,000 to 1,500 years old! Located along Zambezi Drive, this natural marvel is well worth a contemplative visit.
Sundowner cruises operate above the falls, where hippo may be spotted and elephant and other wildlife may be seen coming to the river to drink.
The “Flight of Angels” is a spectacular way to view the falls from the air by helicopter and is highly recommended. From the air, you are truly able to appreciate the incredible power and splendor. The Zambezi Spectacular is a longer helicopter flight, journeying upstream from the falls along the Zambezi River and over the gorge.
More daring adventure comes in the form of one of the world’s highest commercially run bungee jumps (over 300 feet (100 m), which operates on the bridge that crosses the Zambezi River. Perhaps even more exciting is the Gorge Swing—a 200 foot (70 m) free-fall, ending in a swing across the Zambezi Gorge. Canoeing and kayaking safaris are another fantastic way to explore the upper Zambezi.
Half- and full-day horseback rides around the Victoria Falls area are available and cater both to the novice and experienced riders. Multi-day horseback safaris are available only for those riders who have extensive riding experience.
The upper Zambezi River offers one of the most exciting and challenging whitewater rafting trips in the world. There are some fifth-class rapids, which are the highest class runnable, and these can be experienced either with a professional oarsman at the helm or in a raft with everyone paddling and your river guide steering. No experience is required; just hang on and enjoy the ride! The one-day trip is rated as the wildest commercially run one-day trip in the world.
Playing a round of golf at the Elephant Hills Hotel can also prove to be an exciting experience, as wildlife such as impala, crocodile, waterbuck, greater kudu, vervet monkey and baboons are often encountered on the course.
Take a game drive on the Stanley & Livingstone reserve for a great chance to see the Big Five, including endangered black rhino and other species that you may not have encountered in the other parks and reserves you may have visited. Enjoy an intimate bush dinner after your afternoon drive.
Victoria Falls National Park includes Victoria Falls as well as the 216-square-mile (560-km2) Zambezi National Park. The park is located west of the falls and extends upstream for 25 miles (40 km) along the Zambezi River. Zambezi National Park is well known for its beautiful sable antelope and other species you may see are elephant, zebra, eland, buffalo, giraffe, lion, greater kudu and waterbuck. Noteworthy birds include collared palm thrush, white-breasted cuckooshrike, racquet-tailed roller, African finfoot, Schalow’s turaco, Pel’s fishing owl and rock pratincole.
Day game drives, walks, canoeing and kayaking are offered from Victoria Falls as well as a chance to learn more about anti-poaching efforts conducted by the Victoria Falls Anti-Poaching Unit (VFAPU). Fishing for tigerfish and tilapia is good. There are 30 sites along the river for picnicking and fishing (beware of crocodiles). Since the game reserve does not have all-weather roads, some parts are usually closed during the rainy season between November and May.
ACCOMMODATION IN TOWN
DELUXE
The Victoria Falls Hotel has been recently refurbished and maintains much of its colonial elegance, including its graceful architecture, spacious terraces and colorful gardens. It is only a 10-minute walk from Victoria Falls. The hotel has 161 air-conditioned rooms and suites, a swimming pool and tennis courts. The bridge and the impressive Zambezi Gorge can be seen from the hotel. Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, located a 5-minute drive from the falls, is the only westward facing hotel to witness magnificent sunsets. The lodge is built under thatch and has 72 decorated air-conditioned rooms (First Class) and suites (Deluxe) overlooking a floodlit waterhole where wildlife may be seen coming to drink. The open-air restaurant, bar and swimming pool all have views of the park. Optional excursions include nature trails, bird and game hides, and game walks with a professional guide. A complimentary hourly shuttle service is available to the town of Victoria Falls and to the entrance to the falls. Victoria Falls Safari Suites are great for families as they have 2 and 3-bedrooom units. Meals are taken at the Victoria Falls Safari lodge.
Victoria Falls Hotel
Victoria Falls River Lodge
FIRST CLASS
Ilala Lodge, with its 56-rooms and suites, is a thatched lodge with swimming pool. It is located within walking distance to the falls.
ACCOMMODATION OUTSIDE OF TOWN
PREMIUM
Victoria Falls River Lodge is located within the Zambezi National Park on the banks of the Zambezi River. The camp features 5 family suites and 8 luxury tents with private decks overlooking the river, a swimming pool, bar and boma. Elephant Camp, located on a private concession bordering the Masuie River and Zambezi gorges, features 12 luxury tented suites, each with private deck and plunge pool. Two complimentary transfers to town are included in your stay. Guests have the opportunity to meet the elephants at the onsite sanctuary as well as Sylvester, the sanctuary’s cheetah ambassador. The Matetsi Private Game Reserve, a 123,500 acre (50,000 hectare) private wildlife concession 17 miles (27 km) from Victoria Falls, offers game drives, walking safaris, birdwatching, canoeing and boat excursions, and fishing. Matetsi River Lodge features 2 intimate camps of just 9 river-facing suites each, including 2 interleading family suites. Matetsi River House is a 4-bedroomed sole-use villa with 2 master bedrooms as 2 interleading children’s rooms, and a swimming pool. The villa provides a private vehicle with guide, a chef and butler.
CLASSIC
The Stanley & Livingstone, a 6,075-acre (2,430-hectare) private estate, is situated a mere 10-minute drive from the falls and has 16 luxury suites. A raised patio overlooks nearby waterholes. Resident wildlife includes black rhino. Day and night game drives and escorted walks are offered.
VINTAGE
Imbabala Camp, located on private land on the banks of the Zambezi River just a mile (2 km) from the Botswana border, has 8 individual chalets (one family chalet sleeps 4 people) and a swimming pool. Activities include day and night game drives, boat game viewing excursions, birding walks and fishing. The camp arguably offers the best fishing in the area. Walking safaris are available by prior arrangement.
This is Zimbabwe’s largest national park and encompasses wide open, uncrowded spaces with the diversity and quantity of game unrivalled in Zimbabwe. It has, in fact, the second largest mammal diversity of any park in the world.
Although animals move freely to the north along the Zambezi River and west into Botswana, Hwange has an estimated 25,000 elephants. Other wildlife commonly seen includes lion, giraffe, zebra, greater kudu, impala, wildebeest, tsessebe and black-backed jackal. Leopard, African wildcat, bat-eared fox, serval, honey badger, civet, sable antelope, roan antelope and gemsbok may also be seen.
The park is located in the northwest corner of Zimbabwe, just west of the main road between Bulawayo and Victoria Falls and, covering some 5,656-square-miles (14,651-km2), is slightly larger than the state of Connecticut. With over 100 species of mammals and 400 species of birds, Hwange’s diversity is clearly exemplified.
The northern reaches of Hwange consist of mudstone and basalt, while the southern side, with its semi-arid conditions, is part of Kalahari sand veld. The park has an average altitude of 3,300 feet (1,000 m). Winter nights can drop to below freezing, and summer days can soar above 100°F (38°C), while average temperatures range from the pleasant 65° to 83°F (18° to 28°C).
There are no rivers, just a few streams in the east of the park, but waterholes (fed by wells) and springs provide sources of water year-round for wildlife. During the dry season, these permanent water holes, called pans, provide a good opportunities for visitors to observe wild animals as they congregate around the pans to quench their thirst. Elephants, excitedly parading in their hundreds, are often seen tumbling toward the pans during the early morning and late afternoons. It is a rewarding sight; mothers and daughters and aunts and youngsters all drink their fill and provide a truly lovely wildlife spectacle.
There are no seasonal animal migrations to speak of; the best time to witness high concentrations of wildlife is during the dry season from June to October when the game congregates around the pans. Game viewing is good in May, November and December and fair from January through to April. During the “Green Season” from January to March, game is dispersed in the teak woodland in the east and the mopane woodland in the north.
Birdwatching is also excellent, with numerous Kalahari-sand specialists present in good numbers. Kori bustard, Bradfield’s hornbill, crimson-breasted shrike, swallow-tailed bee-eater, violet-eared waxbill and scaly-feathered finch are all abundant. Hwange is an important refuge for birds of prey, with bateleur, martial eagle, tawny eagle, brown snake eagle and white-headed vulture among the species that enjoy sanctuary here.
Guests at Davison’s Camp enjoy a walking safari
Cheetah thrive on the grassy plains and open woodlands around Little Makalolo
The wilderness area of Hwange in the south-eastern part of the park includes the Makalolo and Somalisa concession areas, which hosts good populations of wildlife year-round. These areas are ecologically diverse and include vast, open palm-fringed plains, acacia woodlands, floodplains and teak forests. The vleis are covered by seemingly endless fields of flowers during the rainy season. This region constitutes Zimbabwe’s own version of the “Serengeti plains”, with the exception that instead of wildebeest and zebra, you will come across large herds of elephant and buffalo. As the grass remains relatively short during the wet season between December and March, the game remains easy to spot in these wide-open areas.
A real plus is that only those guests staying at the camps in the private concession areas are allowed to traverse the region, guaranteeing exclusivity with very few other tourists around. Safari camps in both the Makalolo and Somalisa areas include Linkwasha, Little Makalolo, Davison’s, Somalisa, Somalisa Acacia and Somalisa Expeditions.
The wilderness area has the highest concentration of big game in the park as waterholes are pumped year-round. The combination of great game and exclusivity make this the best region in Hwange for an overall wildlife experience.
The Main Camp area is the only part of the park that may be crowded at times because guests from a number of other camps, campsites and lodges situated outside of the reserve use this as an entrance. Nearby is the Painted Dog Conservation Center; a very impressive complex where wild dogs that have been snared or otherwise injured are nursed back to health. If there is a good chance of survival, the wild dogs are released back into the wild. Several hundred school children visit the center every year. The organization funds unarmed anti-poaching units that remove snares from both within the park and on its fringes.
The Sinamatella area differs quite a bit from the southern areas. Kalahari sands make way here for very hilly areas with beautiful granite kopjes—rocky outcrops—deep valleys, some open grasslands, a number of natural springs and seasonal rivers. The predominant woodland is mopane with scattered open grassland.
Elephants quech their thirst at Somalisa Camp
During the dry season, elephants may be seen digging for water to percolate up through the sand in the seasonal river beds.
The elephant population is particularly dense in this area, allowing for sightings of massive herds congregating together at the waterholes. The lion population is strong and stable. Sable antelope, roan antelope, giraffe, impala, hippo, klipspringer, warthog, hyena and leopard may also be encountered.
The Sinametalla region has three main year-round water sources—Masuma Dam, Shumba and Mandavu Dam, which is the largest body of water in the park—each with a thatched picnic area and hides. The area’s natural springs are only accessible on foot, making walking in this area extra special; you may start off intent on investigating a spring and end up following a pride of lions or a herd of buffalo.
Hwange has approximately 300 miles (480 km) of roads, some of which are closed during the rainy season. All-weather roads run through most of the park.
Vehicles must keep to the roads except in the private concession areas where extreme limited off-road driving is allowed. Visitors are not permitted to leave their vehicles unless escorted by a licensed professional guide or in designated areas, such as hides, game-viewing platforms or at fenced-in picnic sites. Open vehicles are allowed only for licensed tour operators.
Airstrips for small aircraft are available at Makalolo, Somalisa and at Main Camp; large and small aircraft may land at Hwange Airport.
Mobile tented camp safaris to the Sinamatella area are also available.
ACCOMMODATION
Linkwasha, Little Makalolo, Davison’s Camp, Somalisa, Somalisa Acacia, Somalisa Expeditions, and Camp Hwange are located in exclusive areas within the park. Only guests of those camps are allowed in their respective regions. The Hide is located on the park border; guests enter the park through the Kennedy Pan entrance. Ivory Lodge is situated on a 6,000-acre (2,400-hectare) conservancy bordering Hwange National Park, a 30- to 60-minute drive from the Main Gate. The conservancy offers outstanding game viewing.
CLASSIC
Linkwasha Camp consists of 9 large rooms including 1 family unit. Each unit has a king size bed that can be converted into twin beds, as well as a lounge and private deck. Linkwasha boasts an extremely productive waterhole that is situated right in front of the camp. Herds of elephants and buffalo are often seen as they come down to drink along with lion, cheetah, spotted hyena, giraffe and greater kudu. Large decks and a swimming pool are a favorite spot in the main area. Day and evening drives, as well as guided walking safaris are offered. Somalisa Camp is comprised of 7 luxury tents with a plunge pool and dining room overlooking a waterhole and elephant pool (a small drinking pool very close to camp). Both Somalisa and Somalisa Acacia are famous for herds of elephant drinking from the elephant pool at arms-length from onlookers. Activities include guided walks, day and night game drives and game viewing from hides. Somalisa Acacia Camp has 4 luxury tents including 2 family tents, plunge pool and dining room overlooking an elephant pool and waterhole. Activities include day and evening game drives and guided walks. Little Makalolo features 6 luxury tents, a plunge pool and “wood pile” hide overlooking the waterhole in front of camp. Day and evening game drives and escorted walks, along with visits to Ziga and other local schools are offered.
Somalisa Camp
Little Makalalo
VINTAGE
Davison’s Camp features 9 tents with private verandas and beautiful views over the vlei. The dining tent, bush bar and pool overlook an active waterhole. Day and evening game drives, escorted walks, and visits to local schools are offered. Camp Hwange is located on an exclusive private concession in the north of the park near Shumba—one of the largest open grassland areas in this region. The camp overlooks a waterhole and features 8 large tents under thatch with flush toilets and showers. Activities include day and evening drives, guided walks and sitting in log hides. It is only a 3-hour drive from Victoria Falls. The Hide has 10 tents under thatch that overlook a waterhole. Activities include day and night game drives and walks. Two guests may overnight in the romantic Dove’s Nest tree house.
Davison’s Camp
ADVENTURER
Somalisa Expeditions is an authentic tented camp within a private game concession. The camp overlooks an elephant pool and natural waterhole, and features 6 canvas tents with hot water showers and flush toilets. Activities include game drives, walking safaris, birdwatching and game viewing from hides. Kazuma Trails (operated by Camp Hwange) offers mobile tented safaris using large tents with en suite flush toilets and safari showers.
ACCOMMODATION BORDERING THE PARK
CLASSIC
Khulu Ivory accommodates up to 12 guests at a time and aims to keep it personal. Khulu offers guests guided game viewing on a private concession bordering Hwange National Park and/or in the National Park. Activities available are half or full day game drives, night drives, visits to the Painted Dog Conservation Centre, walking safaris, pan/hide sits and game counts (on request).
Khulu Ivory Lodge
VINTAGE
Ivory Lodge is built on a 6,000-acre (2,400-hectare) conservancy bordering Hwange National Park. The 9 elevated tree houses are built in the tree tops of a teak forest with views of the floodlit waterhole. Activities offered are game drives on the concession and on the Dete Vlei, walking safaris, time in hides, and visits to local schools and villages.
Ivory Lodge
In the dry season, Mana Pools National Park is undoubtedly the best park in Africa for walking and canoe safaris. The Shona word Mana means ‘four,’ and refers to the four large pools of water inland of the Zambezi River that give the area its name. This wonderful park, located on the southern side of the Lower Zambezi River, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984 and was designated a Ramsar Wetland of international importance in January 2013.
The 845-square-mile (2,190-km2) park lies downstream—northeast—of Lake Kariba and Victoria Falls, and boasts stunning views of the Zambian escarpment across the river. Characterized by fertile river terraces that reach inland for several miles from the Zambezi River, it features small ponds and pools, such as Chine Pools and Long Pool, which were formed as the river’s course slowly drifted northward. Reeds, sandbanks and huge mahogany and acacia trees near the river give way to dense mopane woodland to the park’s southern boundary along the steep Zambezi Escarpment.
Mana Pools ranks as one of the continent’s top parks for seeing African wild dogs. Other species commonly sighted in Mana Pools include elephant, leopard, buffalo, greater kudu, waterbuck, zebra, eland, impala, bushbuck, lion and crocodile. Large pods of hippo often rest on the sandbanks, soaking up the morning sun. Cheetah, jackal, spotted hyena and the rare nyala are occasionally spotted. Large varieties of both woodland and water birds are present.
This is by far my favorite park in Africa for walking in the bush. I especially love the “driving and walking” excursions. You start off on a game drive, but once something of interest is found, such as fresh spoor (tracks) or animals are spotted some distance from the road, you are allowed to get out of the vehicle and track wildlife under the supervision of your professional guide. To some this might sound as though there is an element of risk, but keep in mind that the safari is conducted by a fully licensed professional guide. Just follow their directions, use common sense and enjoy the adventure!
Mana Pools provides adrenalin-pumping walking safaris
The thrill of a canoe safari on the Zambezi River
For the more adventurous traveler, canoeing safaris are an option to experience the African bush from a different perspective. It is one of my favorite safaris on the entire continent. Gliding silently through the water, you can paddle close to wild animals wading in the river or those that have come to drink along the shore. Canoe safaris range from a few hours to several days in length. Canoeing is fun in itself, but what I love about it most is that it provides access to areas, both river shoreline and islands, that cannot be reached by vehicle—providing opportunities for new adventures to unfold. If accompanied by a professional guide, this becomes a canoeing/walking excursion: you canoe until you see elephant, lion or other interesting game on or near the shoreline, and then pull into shore and walk up for a closer view. This is surely one of the most exciting game activities you can hope to experience.
Luxury (full-service) canoe safaris are led by a professional guide licensed to escort you on walks. The guide is supplemented by a cook and camp attendants who take care of all the chores. The tents are larger than the other options, and each has a bush shower and toilet.
First Class (full-service) canoe safaris are also led by a professional guide licensed to take guests on walks. Guests are accommodated in comfortable tents—large enough to stand in, but smaller than the luxury class—with cots with mattresses, sheets and blankets. Safari shower and bush toilet tents are usually separate from the sleeping tents.
Elephant are often seen swimming across the Zambezi River from the mainland toward small islands in search of food. On most canoe safaris, guests are able to view hundreds of hippo, buffalo, waterbuck, impala, elephant, crocodile, lion and many other species.
Although these canoe safaris are by no means marathons, participants do paddle their own canoes—allowing them to be more involved in the adventure. On luxury canoe safaris, paddlers can be arranged, allowing guests to focus on taking photographs and on just enjoying the experience.
The broad floodplain of the mighty Zambezi
The best time to visit the park is at the end of the dry season (July to October) when large numbers of elephant, buffalo, waterbuck and impala come to the river to drink and graze on the lush grasses along its banks. Game viewing, canoe and walking safaris are also good in May, June and early November.
Because many roads within the park are closed during the rainy season, many camps are also closed. The best access to the park is with scheduled or private charter flights; 4wd vehicles are recommended in the dry season and necessary in the rainy season.
ACCOMMODATION
CLASSIC
Little Ruckomechi is located in a private concession along with Ruckomechi Camp. Little Ruckomechi is comprised of 4 luxury tents nestled on the banks of the Zambezi under some shady albida trees. The camp is best suited as a sole use camp and has a professional guide, chef, manager and small staff to ensure utmost of privacy without compromising luxury. A small splash pool is located near the 2 large Bedouin-style tents that make up the dining area and lounge. Ruckomechi Camp is positioned on the banks of the Zambezi River at the western end of Mana Pools. The central dining, bar and lounge areas face the escarpment, and there is a separate pool deck and fire pit for evenings under the African skies. Ten tents including 2 family suites overlook the river. A romantic star-bed situated nearby overlooking a productive waterhole completes the Ruckomechi experience. Here you will be able to walk and take game drives, canoe or boat from the camp. Both camps offer game drives, walks and motorboat excursions and afternoon canoe trips.
Ruckomechi Camp
Little Ruckomechi
A pack of African wild dog in Mana Pools
VINTAGE
Vundu Tented Camp is located right on the Zambezi River inside the park and has 8 large tents, including a 2-bedroom, 2-bath family tent, with open-air bathrooms and unobstructed river views. The elevated main lounge area is built in the tree canopy, an ideal vantage point to view the elephants and hippos below. From camp you may take day and night game drives, canoeing safaris ranging from a few hours to 3 days in length, and walks to explore and appreciate the rich floodplains and river channels. Two and 3-day luxury canoe safaris are also offered. The owner is also a wild dog researcher for the Painted Dog Conservation Group. Voluntary tourism programs are offered, such as recording wild dog data that is used for the research. Little Vundu, a traditional tented camp located 2-miles (3-km) upstream from Vundu Camp, has 4 tents with open air bathrooms. The camp has a beautiful view of the Zambezi River and is accessed by a bridge over a small channel—a favorite place for nyala, elephant, buffalo, lion, hyena, leopard, African wild dog, and impala to come and drink. Kanga Camp, located about an hour’s drive inland from the Zambezi River, has 6 Meru-style tents with flush toilets and showers. Game drives and walks are offered.
Vundu Tented Camp
Little Vundu
Vundu Camp—Making a Difference
In August 2014 we were asked to accommodate a group of ecologists counting the numbers of elephant in the Lower Zambezi Valley for the Great Elephant Census. We have lost 40% of our Valley elephant in 20 years. This information led to a workshop to formulate an anti-poaching formula for the Valley. We have subsequently been asked to help with these anti-poaching efforts, for which we are most appreciative.
Wherever possible, our main purpose is to provide assistance and support to national parks personnel who are putting in huge amounts of effort to curb poaching with limited resources. With boots on the ground, we provide these in terms of Ranger Patrols, covert presence and assistance with the investigations branch in terms of gathering information. We also provide much needed material support, such as vehicles, boats, food, tents, backpacks, filtered water, fuel, communications equipment, and vehicle leases and purchases, and similar activities. And we assist with community support efforts, including health and welfare activities and self-sustainability programs, to foster goodwill toward the local wildlife and habitat conservation.
BSU has only been running since November of 2015, and so far we have definitely procured an impact. A summary of the years’ work of assistance in anti-poaching activities includes: the arrest of 65 suspects, the recovery of 150 elephant tusks, recovery of 6 live pangolin, opening new roads for patrols, providing provisions for the scouts and assisting in building of a new ranger base. In order to carry out these jobs, we have been able to purchase 8 vehicles and provide fuel and drivers deploying 1800 rangers on patrol. Our area of operation includes Mana Pools, Nyakasanga Safari Area and Rifa Safari Area in the Lower Zambezi Valley, an area of over 3,900-square-miles (10,000-km2) for Ranger deployments.
Thanks once again to the Africa Adventure Company and everyone who has supported us with this fight against poaching.
To learn more about Bushlife Conservancy visit www.bushlifeconservancy.org.
Or contact them at:
8941 Atlanta Ave. #405, Huntington
Beach, CA 92647, Tel. 888-465-6551
Nick Murray
Bushlife Support Unit
A tax-deductible 501(c)(3)
Located on the southern shore of Lake Kariba, one of the largest man-made lakes on earth, and bounded on the east by the dramatic Sanyati Gorge and on the west by the Umi River, this scenic 543 square-mile (1,407-km2) park is home to a vast variety of big game, including elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard, cheetah and wild dog. Other wildlife present includes greater kudu, impala, sable antelope, roan antelope and waterbuck. Tracking black rhino on foot is a very popular activity here. A chunk of Matusadona is in fact an Intensive Protection Zone (IPZ) for rhino. Wildlife viewing is best along the shoreline in the dry season, between May and October. This is a great park for boating and walking excursions, both of which are not to be missed. Visitors gently meander along the shoreline by boat and when interesting animals are spotted, you go ashore and, escorted by your professional guide, approach for a closer look.
Motor yachts known as ‘houseboats’, complete with captain, staff and professional guide, provide private parties with great freedom and comfort while exploring the region.
Fishing is good for tiger fish, giant vundu, bream, chessa and nkupi. October is the optimum month for tiger fishing (although it is very hot), and November to April for bream. Birdlife, especially waterfowl, is prolific and superb viewing of African fish eagles is guaranteed. Cormorants and kingfishers are present in abundance.
The shoreline of Matusadona
Bumi Hills Lodge overlooks Lake Kariba
CLASSIC
Bumi Hills Lodge, located on the western outskirts of the park on a hill overlooking the lake, has 20 well-appointed rooms with terraces or balconies, an infinity swimming pool and spa. Walks, game viewing by vehicle and by boat, fishing and village visits are offered.
VINTAGE
Musango has 8 tents under thatch including 2 honeymoon tents with private plunge pools and a swimming pool. Walks, vehicle and boat game drives, canoeing, fishing, birding, visits to dinosaur fossil sites, villages and the rhino orphanage are offered.
Hundreds of kopjes—rocky outcrops—supporting thousands of precariously balanced rocks give the 164-square-mile (424-km2) Matobo National Park one of the most unusual landscapes in Africa. The picturesque scene of gray kopjes provides a magical sight when the storms roll in, creating many an artists’ dream. A jewel of a park, it is a well-kept secret and is a highlight for many that venture there.
Part of the park acts as an Intensive Protection Zone (IPZ) for black and white rhino. White rhino are almost always seen on walks with a professional guide—very exciting indeed! Leopard are plentiful, but seldom seen as the granite boulders and its secretive hiding places provide the ultimate camouflage. Other wildlife includes sable antelope, giraffe, zebra, hippo, civet, genet, black-backed and side-striped jackal, caracal and porcupine.
The region boasts more than 3,500 Bushman rock paintings—more than any other place in Africa. Some are believed to be over 6,000 years old. Others have been painted by indigenous people no less than 1,500 years ago. The paintings represent religious and spiritual ceremonies as these were experienced by ancient hunter-gatherers. Nswatugi Cave rock paintings include images of giraffe and antelope. If visiting Bambata Cave, allow 1.5 hours for the hike in order to view the superb art. White Rhino Shelter rock paintings are also worth a visit. Inanke Cave is quite possibly the best site in Africa for rock paintings, but beware; for those travelers not too keen to exert themselves, it’s quite a hike to get there!
Cecil Rhodes was buried at “World’s View”, at the site of a huge rock kopje that overlooks sensational panoramas of the rugged countryside, especially at sunrise and sunset. A colony of dazzling platysaurus flat lizards may be seen at Rhode’s gravesite; the colorful reptiles provide great photographic opportunities.
Matobo National Park has the highest concentration of eagles in the world, with Verreaux’s (black) eagles, African hawk-eagles, Wahlberg’s eagles and crowned eagles among the species breeding within the reserve. Other birdlife includes purple-crested turaco, boulder chat, and both peregrine and lanner falcon.
This is definitely one of the best areas to visit for a quality cultural experience. In addition to game viewing, one can visit rock painting sites, villages, a rural clinic, a primary and secondary school, orphanage, a church and an authentic African healer. The cooler and dryer months of June through September are probably the best time to visit, however, this is a great park and region to visit year-round with easy access.
Tracking white rhino at Amalinda
Spectacular granite towers dominate the Matobo landscape
ACCOMMODATION
CLASSIC
Camp Amalinda, attractively built among enormous kopjes, features 8 thatched chalets including 1 family unit, open-air dining room and a magnificent natural rock pool. Rooms are built amidst the rocky outcrops and overlook the property below, creating a stunning abode. Activities include game drives, walks, horseback riding on a nearby property, visiting sites of Bushman paintings in the park and in nearby rural areas, visits to nearby villages, orphanages, schools, clinics, churches and African healers. Spa treatments can be arranged between activities. The owners operate the Mother Africa Trust, providing much needed assistance in the community and wonderful voluntourism opportunities for visitors. The camp is located about a 10-minute drive from the park. Room 8 is arguably a favorite as it has original bushman paintings in the room itself on the rock.
Camp Amalinda
Breakfast at Amalinda
Interpreting Hunter-Gatherer Rock Art
When it comes to rock art, few regions on earth can match the cultural treasures of Southern Africa. Painted by hunter-gatherers (often called ‘Bushmen’ or ‘San’) these images appear at thousands of sites across the region and show a wide variety of animals, people and abstract shapes in an array of scenes. Paintings are found wherever suitable surfaces exist, which in Zimbabwe means on the granite and sandstone outcrops dotted across the country. The art is thought to date back at least 13,000 years although it is possible painting started much earlier. Due to the natural forces of erosion and weathering as well as human interference, much of the art still visible on the rocks is unlikely to be more than 5,000 years old. What do we know about the people who painted them? Not nearly enough! Unlike in South Africa and Botswana, there are almost no ethnographic records relating directly to the ancient artists behind these Zimbabwean images, making it difficult to fully understand their meanings!
