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Bryce Canyon National Park
‘Hoodoo’ means voodoo unless you’re in Bryce Canyon—‘fairy chimney’ or ‘earth pyramid’ are other names for the otherworldly rock spires rising from the canyon floor. And the names don’t lie. There is something bewitching about these geological wonders. Bryce Canyon is a place full of magic, inspiration, and spectacular beauty. These silent rock sentinels invite your imagination to run wild.
Geologically speaking, hoodoos are simply pinnacles of rock, often oddly shaped, left standing after millions of years of water and wind have eroded the surrounding rock. But how much more fun to believe the Paiute legend. These American Indians, who lived in the area for several hundred years before being forced out by Anglo pioneers, told of “Legend People” who once lived here; because of their evil ways, they were turned to stone by the powerful Coyote and even today remain frozen in time.
Whatever the cause, mythical or scientific, Bryce Canyon is certainly unique. Its intricate and often whimsical formations are on a more human scale than the impressive rocks seen at Zion, Capitol Reef, and Canyonlands national parks. Bryce is inviting in its beauty; by gazing over the rim, or spending even just one morning on the trail, you will feel you’re on intimate terms with the park.
Besides the attention-grabbing hoodoos, you’ll notice deep amphitheaters, with cliffs, windows, and arches, all colored in Utah’s signature shades of red. Bryce holds three separate life zones at the various elevations in the park, each with its own unique vegetation, and a kingdom of animals, from the busy chipmunks and ground squirrels to the stately mule deer and its archenemy, the mountain lion.
Human exploration of the Bryce area likely began with the Paiute. It’s possible that trappers, prospectors, and early Mormon scouts visited here in the early to mid-1800s before Major John Wesley Powell conducted the first thorough survey of the region in the early 1870s. Shortly after Powell’s exploration, Mormon pioneer Ebenezer Bryce and his wife, Mary, moved to the area and tried raising cattle. Although they stayed only a few years before moving on to Arizona, Bryce left behind his name and his oft-quoted description of the canyon as “a helluva place to lose a cow.”
Essentials
Getting There
By Plane Bryce Canyon Airport (Airport Code BCE; www.brycecanyonairport.com; 435/834-5239), at 7,586 feet of elevation, is located several miles from the park entrance on Utah 12, and has a 7,400-foot lighted runway. There is no regularly scheduled airline service, but charter service is available from Bryce Canyon Airlines (www.rubysinn.com/scenic-flights; 435/834-8060). The airport offers free shuttle service to local motels and car rentals are available from Hertz (www.hertz.com; 800/654-3131), which is located at the Chevron service station in the Ruby’s Inn complex.
You can also fly into St. George (130 miles southwest of the park on I-15) or Cedar City (also on I-15, about 80 miles west of the park), and rent a car (see chapter 9).
From St. George, travel north on I-15 10 miles to exit 16, then head east on Utah 9 for 63 miles to U.S. 89, north 44 miles to Utah 12, and east 13 miles to the park entrance road. The entrance station and visitor center are just 3 miles south of Utah 12. From Cedar City (I-15 exits 57, 59, and 62), take Utah 14 west 41 miles to its intersection with U.S. 89, and follow U.S. 89 north 21 miles to Utah 12, then east 17 miles to the park entrance road.
Situated in the mountains of southern Utah, the park is traversed east to west by Utah 12, with the bulk of the park, including the visitor center, accessible via Utah 63, which branches off from Utah 12 and goes south into the heart of the park. Utah 89 runs north-south west of the park, and Utah 12 heads east to Tropic and Escalante.
From Salt Lake City, it’s approximately 240 miles to the park. Take I-15 south about 200 miles to exit 95, head east 13 miles on Utah 20, south on U.S. 89 for 17 miles to Utah 12, and east on Utah 12 for 13 miles to the park entrance road.
From Capitol Reef National Park, take Utah 24 west 10 miles to Torrey, and turn southwest onto Scenic Highway Utah 12 (through Boulder and Escalante) for about 110 miles, until you reach the park entrance road.
Bryce is 83 miles east of Zion National Park and 250 miles northwest of Las Vegas, Nevada.
Bryce Canyon National Park
Getting Around To alleviate congestion along the park’s only road, please take the optional free shuttle. The $35 car entrance fee (or $20 individual entrance) to Bryce Canyon entitles you to unlimited use of the Bryce Canyon Shuttle buses. Service is in effect from early May to early October, daily from 8am until 6pm Visitors can park their cars at the parking and boarding area at the intersection of the entrance road and Utah 12, 3 miles from the park boundary, and ride the shuttle into the park. Those staying in the park at the Lodge at Bryce Canyon or one of the campgrounds can also use the shuttle. The shuttle has stops at various viewpoints, as well as Ruby’s Inn, Ruby’s Campground, the visitor center, Sunset Campground, and the Lodge at Bryce Canyon. It runs every 12 to 15 minutes.
Information/Visitor Center For advance information, contact the park at 435/834-5322 or visit www.nps.gov/brca. You can find all kinds of information about visiting Bryce on the park’s website. You can also get information at www.twitter.com/brycecanyonnps and at www.facebook.com/brycecanyonnps. If you desire even more details to help plan your trip, you can order books, maps, posters, DVDs, and CDs from the nonprofit Bryce Canyon Natural History Association (www.brycecanyon.org; 888/362-2642 or 435/834-4782). Association members (membership costs $35 single or $50 family annually) receive a 15% discount on purchases and also receive discounts at the Bryce Lodge gift shop and other nonprofit bookstores at national parks, monuments, historic sites, and recreation areas.
The visitor center, at the north end of the park, has exhibits on the geology and history of the area and a short slide show on the park. Rangers can answer questions and provide backcountry permits. Free brochures are available, and books, maps, videos, and posters can be purchased. The visitor center is open daily year-round except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Summer hours are usually from 8am to 8pm, with shorter hours the rest of the year (in the dead of the winter, the visitor center will close at 4:30pm).
Fees, Backcountry Permits & Regulations Entry into the park (for up to 7 days) costs $35 per private car, pickup truck, van, or RV, which includes unlimited use of the park shuttle (when it’s operating). Individuals 16 and older entering the park on bike or foot are charged $20 each for a week; motorcycle fees are $30. Those 15 and under are admitted free. Tent campsites cost $20 per night; RVs are $30.
Backcountry permits are required for all overnight trips into the backcountry, and for up to 7 days cost $5 for 1 or 2 people, $10 for 3 to 6 people, and $15 for 7 to 15 people (group sites only). Backcountry camping is permitted on only two trails (see “Hiking,” below).
Backcountry hikers are expected to practice minimum-impact techniques, prohibited from building fires, and required to carry their own water. Bicycles are prohibited in the backcountry and on all trails. Feeding or disturbing wildlife is forbidden, as is vandalizing or upsetting any natural feature of the park. Dogs, which must be leashed at all times, are prohibited on all trails, in the backcountry, and in public buildings.
Seasons/Avoiding the Crowds Although Bryce Canyon National Park receives only two-thirds the number of annual visitors that pour into Zion, the park can still be crowded, especially during peak season from June through September, when the campgrounds are often full by 2pm. If you visit then, head for some of the lesser-used trails (ask rangers for recommendations), and start your hike as soon after sunrise as possible.
| Bryce Canyon in Outer Space |
In 2007, the minor planet (most would call it an asteroid) 49272 was named Bryce Canyon by The International Astronomical Union. Bryce Canyon (the asteroid) is estimated to be 3 to 5 miles across, and orbits the sun between Mars and Jupiter. It’s too dim to be seen with a small telescope. But because Bryce Canyon (the park) is one of the darkest places in the country, visitors can see many other heavenly bodies—sign up for the park’s popular twice-weekly summertime Astronomy Program (telescopes provided; consult the visitor center for details and dates).
A better time to visit, if your schedule allows, is spring or fall; if you don’t mind a bit of cold and snow, the park is practically deserted from December through February—and the sight of bright red hoodoos capped with fresh white snow is a rare vision.
Safety While most visitors to Bryce Canyon enjoy an exciting vacation without mishap, accidents can occur, and here—possibly because of the nature of the trails—the most common injuries by far are sprained, twisted, and broken ankles. Park rangers strongly recommend that hikers—even those just out for short day hikes—wear sturdy hiking boots with good traction and ankle support. When hiking, remember that the lower you drop below the rim, the hotter it gets, so carry lots of water and dress in layers that can be removed and easily carried as the temperature rises.
Another concern in the park is bubonic plague, which, contrary to popular belief, is treatable with antibiotics if caught in its early stages. The bacteria that causes bubonic plague has been found on fleas in prairie dog colonies in the park, so you should avoid contact with wild animals, particularly prairie dogs, chipmunks, ground squirrels, and other rodents. Those taking pets into the park should first dust them with flea powder.
Ranger & Educational Programs Park rangers present a variety of free programs and activities. One-hour evening programs, which may include a slide show, take place at the Lodge at Bryce Canyon, the visitor center, and occasionally at the North Campground amphitheater. Topics vary but may include such subjects as the animals and plants of the park, the park’s geology, and the role of humans in the park’s early days. Rangers also give half-hour talks several times daily at various locations in the park and lead hikes and walks, including a moonlight hike (reservations required, so sign up at the visitor center) and a wheelchair-accessible, 1½-hour canyon rim walk . Schedules are posted on bulletin boards at the visitor center, General Store, campgrounds, and the Lodge at Bryce Canyon. Especially popular are the park’s Astronomy Programs , which are usually offered 3 evenings a week through the summer. Telescopes are provided.
| Getting a Bird’s-Eye View of the Park |
For an unforgettable view of the canyon, contact Bryce Canyon Airlines & Helicopters (www.rubysinn.com/scenic-flights; 435/834-8060) for scenic flights by helicopter or open cockpit biplane. Tours last from about 35 minutes to several hours, and the longer trips include surrounding attractions. Check the website or call for details.
The High Plateaus Institute, which is affiliated with Bryce Canyon Natural History Association, occasionally presents educational programs for the public. For details, check with park offices or the Bryce Canyon Natural History Association (www.brycecanyon.org; 888/362-2642 or 435/834-4782).
During the summer, children 12 and younger can join the Junior Rangers for a nominal fee. Junior Rangers participate in a variety of programs, and earn certificates and patches; booklets are available at the visitor center. In addition, park rangers periodically conduct special kids’ activities—usually lasting about an hour and a half—on subjects such as the park ecology. Reservations are required—contact the visitor center for information.
Seeing the Highlights
Bryce Canyon is hugely impressive, but its acreage is fairly small, so how much you see depends on how deep you go.
Start at the visitor center and watch the short slide show that explains some of the area geology. Then hop on a shuttle bus (see “Getting Around,” p. 238), which will take you to most of the main viewpoints. If you insist on driving your own vehicle, you’ll follow the 18-mile dead end road through the park. Stop at the viewpoints.
Spend time at Inspiration Point, which offers a splendid view of Bryce Amphitheater and its hundreds of hoodoos. Yes, it actually is inspirational.
Then walk at least partway down the Queen’s Garden Trail. If you can spare 3 hours, hike down the Navajo Loop Trail and return to the rim via the Queen’s Garden Trail (p. 245). Those unable to hike into the canyon can enjoy a leisurely walk along the Rim Trail, which provides spectacular views into the canyon. The views are especially gorgeous about an hour before sunset.
Exploring Bryce Canyon by Car
The park’s 18-mile scenic drive (one-way) follows the rim of Bryce Canyon, offering easy access to a variety of views into the fanciful fairyland of stone sculptures below. Trailers are not permitted on the road, but can be left at several parking lots. All the overlooks are on your left as you begin your drive, so it’s best to drive all the way to the end of the road and stop at the overlooks on your return trip. Allow 1 to 2 hours.
| Top Picnic Spot |
On a hot summer day, the best spot in the park for a picnic lunch is Rainbow Point, which has picnic tables and restrooms. It’s also among the coolest areas because, at 9,115 feet of elevation, it’s the highest point in the park.
From the visitor center, drive 18 miles to Yovimpa and Rainbow Point overlooks, which offer expansive views of southern Utah, Arizona, and often even New Mexico. From these pink cliffs, you can look down on a colorful platoon of stone soldiers, standing at eternal attention. A short loop trail from Rainbow Point leads to an 1,800-year-old bristlecone pine, believed to be the oldest living thing at Bryce Canyon.
From here, drive back north to Ponderosa Canyon Overlook, where you can gaze down from a dense forest of spruce and fir at multicolored hoodoos, before continuing to Agua Canyon Overlook, which has views of some of the best color contrasts in the park. Looking at the hoodoos is like gazing at clouds—you start to see fantasy characters and buildings. Straight down from Agua, you’ll see a hoodoo known as the Hunter, wearing a hat of green trees.
Continue to Natural Bridge, an arch carved by rain and wind and spanning 85 feet, go on to Farview Point for a panoramic view to the distant horizon and the Kaibab Plateau at the Grand Canyon’s north rim. Passing through Swamp Canyon, turn right off the main road to three viewpoints, the first of which is Paria View, with views to the south of the sandstone White Cliffs, carved by the Paria River. To the north of Paria View is Bryce Point, a splendid stop for seeing the awesome Bryce Amphitheater, the largest natural amphitheater in the park, as well as distant views of the Black Mountains to the northeast and the Navajo Mountain to the south. From here, it’s just a short drive to Inspiration Point, offering views similar to those at Bryce Point plus the best vantage point for seeing the sleeping “city” cast in stone.
| The Best Time to Make the Scenic Drive |
The scenic drive is practically deserted in early mornings—any time before 9am. This is the best time to see deer, and the light on the hoodoos is at its richest during this time.
Return to the main road and head north to Sunset Point, where you can see practically all of Bryce Amphitheater, including the aptly named Thor’s Hammer and the 200-foot-tall cliffs of Wall Street.
Continue north to a turnoff for your final stop at Sunrise Point, which has an inspiring view into Bryce Amphitheater. This is the beginning of the Queen’s Garden Trail , one of the best hikes in Utah (p. 245).
Outdoor Pursuits
In addition to the activities in Bryce Canyon National Park, the adjacent national forest has its own share of outdoor activities. For information, stop at the Dixie National Forest’s Red Canyon Visitor Center ( 435/676-2676), along Utah 12, about 11 miles west of the Bryce Canyon National Park entrance road. It’s usually open daily from early May to early October, and offers various interpretative programs on many Saturdays. Or contact the Dixie National Forest Information Center, 345 E. Riverside Dr., St. George (www.fs.fed.us/dxnf; 435/688-3246).
Biking & Mountain Biking The park’s established scenic drive is open to cyclists, but bikes are prohibited on all trails and forbidden from traveling cross-country within the national park boundaries.
Fortunately, you won’t have to go far to find a trail. Dave’s Hollow Trail starts at the Bryce Canyon National Park boundary sign on Utah 63 (the park entrance road), about a mile south of Ruby’s Inn. The double-track trail goes west for about a half-mile before connecting with Forest Road 090, where you turn south and ride for about ¾ of a mile before turning right onto an easy ride through Dave’s Hollow to the Dave’s Hollow Forest Service Station on Forest Road 087. From here, you can retrace your route for an 8-mile round-trip ride; for a 12-mile trip, turn right on Forest Road 087 to Utah 12 and then right again back to Utah 63 and the starting point. A third option is to turn left on Forest Road 087 and follow it to Tropic Reservoir (see “Fishing,” below). This part of the journey does not form a loop, so you would turn around once you’ve reached the reservoir.
FISHING The closest fishing hole to the park is Tropic Reservoir, a large lake in a ponderosa pine forest. From the intersection of Utah 63 (the park entrance road) and Utah 12, drive west about 3 miles to a gravel road, then about 7 miles south. Facilities include a forest service campground open in summer, a boat ramp, and fishing for rainbow, brook, and cutthroat trout. Locals say the fishing can be better in streams above the lake than in the reservoir itself. For more information, contact the Dixie National Forest (see above).
HIKING One of Bryce Canyon’s greatest assets is that you don’t have to be an advanced backpacker to really get to know the park. However, all trails below the rim have at least some steep grades, so wear hiking boots with a traction tread and good ankle support to avoid ankle injuries. During the hot summer months, go hiking either early or late in the day, carry plenty of water, and keep in mind that the deeper you go into the canyon, the hotter it gets.
The Rim Trail, which does not drop into the canyon but offers splendid views from above, meanders along the rim for more than 5 miles. Overlooking Bryce Amphitheater, the trail offers excellent views along much of its length. An easy to moderate walk, it includes a half-mile section between two overlooks—Sunrise and Sunset—that is suitable for wheelchairs. This trail is a good choice for an after-dinner stroll, when you can watch the changing evening light on the rosy rocks below.
Your best bet for getting down into the canyon and seeing the most with the least amount of sweat is to combine two popular trails—Navajo Loop and Queen’s Garden . The total distance is just under 3 miles, with a 521-foot elevation change, and it takes most hikers from 2 to 3 hours to complete the trek. It’s best to start at the Navajo Loop Trail head at Sunset Point and leave the canyon on the less-steep Queen’s Garden Trail, returning to the rim at Sunrise Point, a half-mile to the north. The Navajo Loop Trail section is considered fairly strenuous; Queen’s Garden Trail is rated moderate. Along the Navajo Loop Trail section, you’ll pass Thor’s Hammer—wondering why it hasn’t fallen—and then ponder the towering skyscrapers of Wall Street. Turning onto the Queen’s Garden Trail, you’ll see some of the park’s most fanciful formations—including majestic Queen Victoria herself, for whom the trail was named—plus the Queen’s Castle and Gulliver’s Castle.
Those up for a challenge might consider the Hat Shop Trail, a strenuous 4-mile round-trip with a 1,336-foot elevation change. Leaving from the Bryce Point Overlook, the trail drops quickly to the Hat Shop, so-named for the hard gray “hats” perched on narrow reddish-brown pedestals. Allow 4 hours.
For die-hard hikers who don’t mind rough terrain, Bryce has two backcountry trails, usually open in summer only. The Under-the-Rim Trail runs for some 23 miles, providing an excellent opportunity to see the park’s spectacular scenery on its own terms. Riggs Spring Loop Trail, 8½ miles long, offers splendid views of the pink cliffs in the southern part of the park. The truly ambitious can combine the two trails for a weeklong excursion. Permits, available at the visitor center, are required for all overnight trips into the backcountry. They cost $5 for 1 or 2 people, $10 for 3 to 6 people, and $15 for 7 to 15 people (group sites only).
| The Biggest Bird of All |
The rarest flying bird in North America, and one of the largest anywhere, by 1987 the California condor’s population had dwindled to just 22 birds. An aggressive breeding program brought the huge raptors (they have a 10-foot wingspan) back from the edge of extinction and today there are nearly 500 in existence. One of the few spots you might see them is in Bryce Canyon. Ask a park ranger for the likeliest places and times.
Horseback Riding Some of the early Utah pioneers were lucky enough to arrive on horseback. Canyon Trail Rides (www.canyonrides.com; 435/679-8665) offers a close-up view of Bryce’s spectacular rock formations from the relative comfort of a saddle. The company has a desk inside Bryce Lodge. A 2-hour ride to the canyon floor and back costs $65 per person, and a half-day trip farther into the canyon costs $9 per person. Rides are offered April through October. Riders must be at least 7 years old for the 2-hour trip, at least 10 for the half-day ride, and weigh no more than 220 pounds.
| Spotting Peregrine Falcons |
For a good chance to see peregrine falcons, go to Paria View and sit quietly away from the crowds; look out over the amphitheater, where these beautiful birds can often be spotted.
Guided horseback rides in Red Canyon are offered by several companies, including Ruby’s Inn Horse Rides (www.horserides.net; 435/834-5341), at Ruby’s Inn (p. 248). Rates range from $65 to $135 for a full day, including lunch. Ruby’s will also board your horse (call for rates).
WILDLIFE-WATCHING The park is home to a variety of wildlife, ranging from mule deer to mountain short-horned lizards, which visitors often spot while hiking down into the canyon. Occasionally you might catch a glimpse of a mountain lion, most likely on the prowl in search of a mule-deer dinner; elk and pronghorn may also be seen at higher elevations.
The Utah prairie dog, listed as a threatened species, is actually a rodent. It inhabits park meadows, but should be avoided, as its fleas may carry disease (see “Safety,” earlier in this chapter).
There are 175 species of birds in the park; you’re bound to hear the triumphant call of the “camp robber” Steller’s jay. Watch for swifts and swallows as they perform their exotic acrobatics along cliff faces; binoculars will come in handy.
If you see or hear one, give the Great Basin rattlesnake a wide berth. Sometimes more than 5 feet long, this rattler is the park’s only poisonous reptile. However, like most rattlesnakes, it is just as anxious as you are to avoid confrontation.
Winter Fun
Bryce is beautiful in the winter, when the white snow creates a perfect frosting on the red, pink, orange, and brown stone columns standing strong against the cold winds. Cross-country skiers will find several marked, ungroomed trails (all above the rim), including the Fairyland Loop Trail , which leads 1 mile through a pine and juniper forest to the Fairyland Point Overlook. From here, take the 1-mile Forest Trail back to the road, or continue north along the rim for another 1¼ miles to the park border.
Snowshoeing is allowed anywhere in the park except on cross-country-ski tracks. There are also connections to ski trails in the adjacent national forest.
| Winter Safety |
Although the entire park is open to cross-country skiers, rangers warn that it’s extremely dangerous to try to ski on the steep trails leading down into the canyon.
Stop at the visitor center for additional trail information, and go to Best Western Plus Ruby’s Inn (p. 249), just north of the park entrance (www.rubysinn.com; 435/834-5341), for information on cross-country ski trails, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling opportunities outside the park. Ruby’s grooms more than 30 miles of ski trails and also rents snowshoes and cross-country ski equipment.
Camping
In the Park
Typical of the West’s national park campgrounds, the two campgrounds at Bryce offer plenty of trees for a genuine “forest camping” experience, easy access to trails, and limited facilities. North Campground has 101 sites; Sunset Campground has 102 sites. One section in North Campground is open year-round; Sunset Campground is open late spring through early fall only. North Campground is best because it’s closer to the Rim Trail—making it easier to rush over to catch those amazing sunrise and sunset colors—but any site in either campground is fine. Neither has RV hookups or showers, but both have modern restrooms with running water. Reservations are available from early May through late September for North Campground and for 20 tent-only sites in Sunset Campground (www.recreation.gov; 877/444-6777) for an additional booking fee of $10, regardless of the number of days. If you don’t have reservations, get to the campground early to claim a site (usually by 2pm in summer). Cost is $20 per night (tents) and $30 (RVs) at either campground.
Showers ($2), a coin-operated laundry, a snack bar, bundles of firewood, food and camping supplies, and souvenirs are located at the General Store (for information, contact the Lodge at Bryce Canyon [p. 251]; 435/834-5361), which is usually open daily from mid-April through October. The store is a healthy walk from either campground. The park service operates an RV dump station ($5 fee) in the summer.
Nearby
In addition to the campgrounds listed below, there is camping at Kodachrome Basin State Park (p. 253)
King Creek Campground Located above Tropic Reservoir, this forest service campground, at 7,900 feet elevation, has graded gravel roads and sites nestled among tall ponderosa pines. Facilities include flush toilets, drinking water, and an RV dump station ($5 fee), but no showers or RV hookups. The reservoir has a boat ramp (see “Fishing,” above). To get to the campground from the Bryce Canyon National Park entrance, go north 3 miles on Utah 63 to Utah 12, turn west (left), and go 2½ miles to the King’s Creek Campground Road; turn south (left) and follow signs to Tropic Reservoir for about 7 miles to the campground. Note: This is a favorite place for ATV enthusiasts; although the vehicles are only allowed to enter and exit the campground, be aware that this very noisy sport will be nearby.
Dixie National Forest Information Center, 345 E. Riverside Dr., St. George. www.fs.fed.us/dxnf. 435/688-3246. 37 sites. No credit cards. Closed Oct to mid-May.
Ruby’s Inn RV Park & Campground Ruby’s is the closest campground to Bryce Canyon National Park that offers complete RV hookups, and it’s also on the park’s shuttle-bus route. Many sites are shaded, there’s an attractive tent area, and just adjacent to the campground are a lake and horse pasture. Facilities include a swimming pool, coin-op laundry, barbecue grills, and a store with groceries and RV supplies. Also on the grounds are several camping cabins ($56 double) and tepees ($40.95 sleeps 8), which share the campground’s bathhouse and other facilities.
300 S. Main St., Bryce Canyon City. www.brycecanyoncampgrounds.com. 435/834-5301 (Nov–Mar 435/834-5341). 150 sites. Full hookups $45; electric/water only $42; tent space $32. Closed Oct–Apr.
Where to Stay
Room taxes add about 11% to the cost. Pets are not accepted unless otherwise noted.
In the Park
The Lodge at Bryce Canyon This sandstone and ponderosa pine lodge, which opened in 1924, is located extremely close to the Rim and the Rim Trail. The luxurious lodge suites are furnished with charming white wicker furniture, ceiling fans, and separate sitting rooms. Ask for a sunrise or sunset view motel unit, simply pleasant modern motel rooms, with two queen-size beds and either a balcony or a patio for a priceless view. The best choice is one of the historic cabins, restored to their 1920s appearance. They’re a bit small, but have two double beds, high ceilings, stone (gas-burning) fireplaces, and log beams. The gift shop has one of the best selections of American Indian jewelry in the area. All units are nonsmoking.
Bryce Canyon National Park, Bryce. www.brycecanyonforever.com. 435/834-8700. 114 units, 110 in motel rooms and cabins, 3 suites and 1 studio in lodge. $223 double, double; $231 cabin. Closed Mid-Nov through Mar. Amenities: Restaurant (see review, p. 251).
Nearby
Best Western Plus Bryce Canyon Grand Hotel “Western luxury” sums up the atmosphere at this upscale hotel, just a stone’s throw from the entrance to Bryce Canyon National Park. The rooms are well furnished and comfortable, with either one king or two queen beds. The hotel caters to those who want to take care of business while on vacation, with large working desks plus everything else you might want to keep in touch with the office. The spacious deluxe suites, at 770 square feet each, have a king bed, a hide-a-bed couch, and a jetted tub. The hotel is under the same management as the nearby Best Western Plus Ruby’s Inn (below). All units are nonsmoking.
31 N. 100 E. (at the entrance to Bryce Canyon), Bryce Canyon City. www.brycecanyongrand.com. 866/866-6634 or 435/834-5700. 162 units. Summer $196 double, $200–$290 suite; rest of year $75 double, $140–$199 suite. Rates include full breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; fitness center; Jacuzzi; heated outdoor pool (May–Oct only); free Wi-Fi.
Best Western Plus Ruby’s Inn Ruby’s is a huge facility, almost a village in itself. The size may be off-putting for some but it is close to the park and you can arrange excursions of all sorts in the lobby, from horseback and all-terrain-vehicle rides to helicopter flights. Spread among nine buildings, the modern motel rooms contain wood furnishings and art that depicts scenes of the area. Deluxe units, located in the main building, have either jetted tubs or two-person jetted spas. Rooms at the back of the complex are a bit quieter. There is also a campground on the property. (See “Camping,” above.) All units are nonsmoking.
26 S. Main St. (at the entrance to Bryce Canyon), Bryce Canyon City. www.rubysinn.com. 866/866-6616 or 435/834-5341. 370 units. June–Sept from $120–$$169 double, $195 suite; Oct–May $70–$140 double, $145 suite. Rates change, so check the website. Pets accepted ($20 per night fee). Amenities: 2 restaurants (Canyon Diner and Cowboy’s Buffet and Steak Room; see reviews, p. 251 and 252); concierge; 1 indoor and 1 outdoor Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; free Wi-Fi.
Bryce Canyon Pines A modern motel with a Western flair, the Bryce Canyon Pines offers well-maintained rooms with wood furnishings and two queen-size beds in most rooms. Some units have fireplaces, some have kitchenettes, and one has its own whirlpool tub. A family suite contains one king-size bed plus two queen-size beds, each in a separate room. There are also some rustic cottages. All units are nonsmoking.
Milepost 10, Utah 12 (3 miles west of intersection with park entry road), Bryce. www.brycecanyonmotel.com. 800/892-7923 or 435/834-5441. 53 units. Prices range from $150–$171 for a standard room, but may fluctuate with the seasons. Amenities: Restaurant; Jacuzzi; covered heated pool (Apr–Oct only); free Wi-Fi.
Bryce Country Cabins There’s something special about staying in a genuine log cabin during a national park vacation, but there’s also something very appealing about hot showers and warm beds. Bryce Country Cabins offers the best of both worlds, with modern log cabins and a historic pioneer cabin. The grounds are nicely landscaped, with good views, although we wish the units were farther from the highway.
The modern cabins have knotty pine walls and ceilings, exposed beams, and ceiling fans. Each has one or two queen-size beds, a table and chairs, and a porch. Bathrooms have shower/tub combos or showers only. The 1905 pioneer cabin has two spacious rooms with country-style decor. Each has two queen-size beds and a full bathroom, and the rooms can be rented together or individually. There are outdoor barbecues, a fire pit for evening gatherings, and a children’s play-fort. All cabins are nonsmoking.
320 N. Utah 12, Tropic. www.brycecountrycabins.com. 435/679-8643. 13 units. Summer $160–$189 double; villa with a king or two queens and a twin $326. Lower rates off-season Amenities: Free Wi-Fi.
Bryce Valley Inn A member of the America’s Best Value Inn & Suites franchise, the Bryce Valley Inn offers simply decorated, basic motel rooms that are a clean, well-maintained, and relatively economical choice for park visitors. Units are furnished with either one king-size bed, one or two queen-size beds, or two double beds. There are also suites with either one queen or one king bed, plus a refrigerator and microwave. All units are nonsmoking. A gift shop on the premises offers a large selection of American Indian arts and crafts, handmade gifts, rocks, and fossils.
199 N. Main St., Tropic. www.brycevalleyinn.com. 800/442-1890 or 435/679-8811. 65 units. Late spring to early fall $85–$115 double and suite; rates from $50 double the rest of the year. 8 miles east of the park entrance road. Pets accepted ($20 fee). Amenities: Restaurant; free Wi-Fi.
Bryce View Lodge This basic modern American motel offers the best combination of economy and location. It consists of four two-story buildings, set back from the road and grouped around a large parking lot and attractively landscaped area. The simply decorated average-size rooms are comfortable and quiet, with two queen-size beds and artwork depicting the rock formations you’ll see in the park, located just down the road. Guests have access to the amenities at Ruby’s Inn, across the street. All units are nonsmoking.
105 E. Center St., Bryce Canyon City. www.bryceviewlodge.com. 888/279-2304 or 435/834-5180. 160 units. Summer double $110 and up, rest of year double $100 and up. Pets accepted ($20 per night fee). Amenities: See Best Western Plus Ruby’s Inn, p. 249.
Stone Canyon Inn This charming inn is the best place to stay outside the park for those who seek upscale accommodations and fantastic views. Each room is unique, with queen- or king-size beds, colorful quilts, handsome wood furnishings, and a classic Western look; most have private hot tubs. In addition to rooms, including a new-in-2018 king room with soaker tub and fridge and one room partly crafted for travelers with disabilities, choose a 2-bedroom, 2-bath cottage that sleeps six, and assortment of guest houses, and a “tree” house. The Stone Hearth Grill serves upscale American food (and plenty of beef); dinner entrees range from $26 to $38. The inn sits well off the main road, on the boundary of the Bryce Canyon National Park, and large windows afford views either into the park or nearby Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument. Smoking is not permitted.
1220 W. 50 S., Tropic. www.stonecanyoninn.com. 435/679-8611. Rates from $235 bungalow to $365 for 2-bedroom cottage; reduced rates in the off-season. Rates include full breakfast. Amenities: Restaurant; sauna; free Wi-Fi. From Utah 12 in Tropic, take Bryce Way Rd. west 1 mile to Fairyland Lane, and follow the sign to the inn. Children 4 and under not allowed in the inn; no age restrictions for cottages.
Where to Eat
In addition to the restaurants discussed below, Ebenezer’s Barn & Grill (https://ebenezersbarnandgrill.com; 435/834-5341, ext. 7099) part of the Best Western Plus Ruby’s Inn complex, at 26 South Main St., in Bryce Canyon City, offers a Western dinner and slightly hokey show nightly at 8pm during the summer. Diners choose from a set menu then mingle at large tables to eat and enjoy the show, which is a combination of Western-style music and humor. Dinner options include rib-eye steak, baked salmon, baked chicken, and barbecue, with prices from $26 to $32; all meals include beans, potatoes, corn bread, dessert, and a nonalcoholic beverage. Tickets are available at Ruby’s Inn.
In the Park
The Lodge at Bryce Canyon AMERICAN They call it “parkitechture”—that stone-and-wood design of many national park lodges that evokes a certain era. Here, two handsome stone fireplaces and large windows look out on the park, which is reason enough to dine at the lodge. But the food’s good, too, and reasonably priced. Breakfasts offer typical American standards and a good buffet. At lunch, you’ll find sandwiches, burgers, salads, and a taco bar. The menu changes periodically, but may include dinner specialties such as pan-seared Alaskan sockeye salmon topped with sun-dried tomato pesto, and perhaps a rack of lamb. Steaks are also offered, including a bison tenderloin, and other dishes frequently available include chicken with lime and chili. There are also vegetarian items, and the restaurant serves wine and beer.
Bryce Canyon National Park. www.brycecanyonforever.com. 435/834-8700. Breakfast a la carte or buffet ($15 adult, $8 12 and under); Lunch entrees $10–$16 or buffet ($16 adult, $8 12 and under). Dinner entrees $18–$35. Daily 7–10am, 11:30am–3pm, and 5–10pm. Closed Mid-Nov through Mar.
Nearby
If you want a break from meat and potatoes, try The Pizza Place (http://brycecanyonpizza.com; 435/679-8888), open year-round at Bryce Canyon Inn in Tropic, or Valhalla Pizza ( 435/834-8709) and RoadRunner Pizza (http://www.roadrunnerpizzafresh.com; 707/812-2403), open seasonally in Bryce Canyon City.
Canyon Diner AMERICAN Part of the Best Western Plus Ruby’s Inn complex, this self-serve restaurant offers typical fast-food fare, relatively quick and close to the park. Breakfasts, served until 11am, include bagels and several egg croissants sandwiches; for lunch and dinner, you can get hoagies, burgers, hot dogs, nachos, pretty good stuffed potatoes, pizza, broiled chicken sandwiches, and salads. Specialties include a fish and chips basket. No alcohol is served.
At the Best Western Plus Ruby’s Inn, 1000 S. Utah 63, Bryce Canyon City. www.rubysinn.com. 435/834-8030. Reservations not accepted. Individual items $4–$7; meals $6–$11. Daily 6:30am–9:30pm. Closed Nov–Mar.
