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Where Should I Go Hiking?

THE HIKES IN this book range from supremely easy to incredibly difficult, and you should be able to find a hike that fulfills your personal sense of adventure in the region you wish to visit. For an overview of the difficulty-rating system, please see “Difficulty”. For those looking for a specific trail feature, the hikes are summarized in chart and organized by theme. Read on for a summary of the regions covered in this book, their weather, the best times of year to hike, and the agencies that govern the lands encompassed by these hikes.

California Dreaming

For the purposes of this book, Northern California can be divided into four regions:

The Central Coast, Bay Area, and Coast Ranges (Hikes 1–42)

The North Coast and Klamath Mountains (Hikes 43–58)

Shasta and the Modoc Plateau (Hikes 59–70)

The Sierra Nevada (Hikes 71–101)

Each region is described briefly in the introduction to its respective section.

Northern California Weather

The overall weather in California is closely linked to the sun’s relative position with the Earth. As the sun’s rays strike more directly north of the equator in spring, the air it warms in the tropics rises into the upper atmosphere and moves north over the Pacific Ocean. Cooled as it travels, the air sinks back down to the surface to form an area of high pressure over the north Pacific known as the Pacific High. As the summer progresses, the high becomes increasingly stable and prevents low-pressure storm fronts in the Gulf of Alaska from reaching Northern California.

As a consequence, summers are almost entirely devoid of rain. Localized thunderstorms do occur—especially in the high mountains—but generally the entire state basks in never-ending blue skies and sunshine. Summers on the coast are remarkably different, however: The same Pacific High that keeps storms away also creates northwest winds that almost continually buffet the shoreline. Warm, moisture-laden summer air condenses into fog over the cold Pacific waters, which is then pushed onshore by wind and the land–sea temperature differential. Summer on the coast can seem a lot like winter.

As the sun begins to strike north of the equator more obliquely in October, the entrenched Pacific High keeps storms away for most of the month while the decreasing temperatures greatly reduce the incidence of fog. It is California’s choicest month of weather. Storms return by November, striking the North Coast first and then gradually reaching farther south as the Pacific High deteriorates. By January, storm after storm is hitting the state, inundating it with heavy rainfall and deep snow. Sunny breaks do occur between storms, but they are generally short-lived. February is the wettest month, and storms can continue well into April, although sunny spring days usually begin to occur in March. As a more direct angle of sunlight hits the north once again, the cycle repeats itself.

California poppies

A Month-by-Month Playbook

The following is a brief description of the hiking opportunities available each month. Bear in mind that many hikes can be done year-round or at times not explicitly mentioned below.

January

Winter storms begin drenching the cold state, and only low-elevation regions near the coast are free from snow. Last year’s brown slopes begin to explode with green grass, and powerful winter waves often break, making a coastal trip very worthwhile during sunny spells. The storms also cleanse the pollution from the air, making this the start of prime hiking season for views in the Bay Area—try Morgan Territory (Hike 13), Mount Diablo (Hike 14), San Bruno Mountain (Hike 25), or Mount Tamalpais (Hike 31). Redwood forests are always open for hiking on rainy days and big surf often booms below Devil’s Slide (Hike 22). Crowds are all but nonexistent.

February

The wettest month of the year hammers at the state, making hiking a challenge. Stay coastal and in the Bay Area if the weather breaks. Pinnacles National Park (Hike 7) is a great place to visit on sunny days. The adventurous can go looking for bald eagles around Cache Creek (Hike 38), or for the abundant birdlife in Cosumnes River Preserve (Hike 16) or at Tule Lake (Hike 60). Crowds remain absent.

Ferns are a constant companion throughout Northern California’s seasons.

March

A highly variable month, March can continue to bring wintry storms or break into long stretches of warm sunshine. Regardless of how frequently they come, the first spring days arrive this month and herald the start of wildflower season. Open slopes along the coast burst with color, views remain generally clear throughout the Bay Area, and oak woodlands flourish green. Big Sur (Hikes 1–6) can be downright hot during sunny spells.

April

Though much like March, April has increasing sunshine and warm weather. Fog can already begin to reappear on the coast, making this the last good month for fog-free coastal adventuring. Oak woodlands explode with wildflowers and Henry W. Coe State Park (Hikes 9 and 10) is a choice destination. This is also a great time for a coastal adventure north of the Bay Area, especially the North Coast region (Hikes 45–52). Pummeled by rain and/or fog much of the year, the area experiences some of its nicest weather this month, when tourist crowds are absent.

May

The winter snowpack begins to melt at higher elevations, and hikes below 5,000 feet open for the season. In the northern Coast Range, Yolla Bolly Wilderness (Hike 44) often provides one of the season’s earliest higher-elevation destinations. Mountain rivers rage with snowmelt, the waterfalls of Feather Falls (Hike 71) and Yosemite Valley (Hike 85) are spectacular, and deep river canyons offer summer heat and wildflowers, including the South Yuba River (Hike 73). Warm, sunny days on the coast are intermittent as the fog begins to increase, hills in the Coast Ranges begin to brown, and summer haze begins to collect, ending the prime Bay Area hiking season. Crowds remain surprisingly light until Memorial Day, when the summer hordes instantaneously appear.

June

The winter snowpack continues to melt, but hikes above 8,000 feet usually remain snow covered and inaccessible all month. The cable route on Half Dome (Hike 86) is usually put up early in the month, and Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks (Hikes 97–101) offer great early-summer adventures. Coastal fog continues to increase, and the heat in the Coast Ranges and Sierra foothills starts to become oppressive. The summer crowds come out in force at popular destinations.

July

Unless it has been an unusually heavy winter, virtually all hikes are open by July and the three-month high-elevation season has begun. While the Sierra Nevada is the destination of choice, with its wide variety of alpine hikes, also consider a trip north to Mount Shasta and the Klamath Mountains (Hikes 53–59). Wildflower season begins to taper off as the month progresses. Fog and crowds are heavy along the coast. Avoid the Fourth of July weekend if at all possible.

August

Though much like July, the very highest elevation hikes to Palisade Glacier (Hike 96) and Sawtooth Peak (Hike 101) sometimes don’t become snow free until this time. Coastal fog is as thick as it gets, statewide temperatures max out, and crowds remain heavy all month long.

September

This is a great month to be anywhere in the mountains. Summer vacation ends for a lot of people on Labor Day and crowds suddenly vanish, yet the weather typically remains ideal across the state. It’s a good time to visit the Trinity Alps (Hike 54), Lake Tahoe (Hikes 76–77), and trips in the eastern Sierra. Coastal fog begins to diminish, and high elevations become increasingly cold at night.

October

This is a great month to be anywhere in California. It is the month of Indian summer, when the sun shines day in and day out, coastal fog finally disappears for the season, and fall colors fluoresce in the mountains. Hot summer weather lingers on a tour of the Modoc Plateau (Hikes 60–69) as the aspens of empty South Warner Wilderness (Hike 64) rustle gold in the breeze. Higher-elevation hikes usually remain open, but nighttime temperatures often drop below freezing. Be aware that hunting season opens early in the month on national forest lands; wearing bright colors is a good idea. Near the end of the month, temperatures begin to swing markedly and the first winter storm often strikes the state.

November

Much of California closes to hiking as snow begins falling in the mountains and a chill sets in at higher elevations. Intermittent winter storms occur and air quality and visibility start to improve in the Bay Area. Fall lingers in the low-elevation foothills of the Sierra Nevada for the first half of the month—Rubicon River (Hike 74) is a pleasant destination. Stay coastal or in the Bay Area otherwise.

December

Daylight dwindles to a minimum as California slips into the depths of winter and hiking days get shorter. Weather is variable; long stretches of rain, cold snaps, and sunshine can all occur. Remain strictly coastal or enjoy views in the Bay Area.

The Different Governing Agencies

This book visits a wide variety of parks and forests managed by a number of different governing agencies. Regulations often vary by location but generally are the same within each group. The four most commonly visited areas in this book are national parks, state parks, national forests, and wilderness areas managed by national forests. A miscellany of other governing agencies are represented as well, including the Bureau of Land Management and various city and county parks.

National Parks

Run by the federal government (Department of the Interior), national parks are designated to preserve and protect unique natural features and wilderness. Generally very user friendly, they tend to draw substantial crowds and often have amenities like small stores, hot showers, and well-maintained campgrounds. Free park maps are handed out, and driving is easy. Regulations are generally strict—car camping is permitted only in designated sites, wilderness permits are always required for overnight trips into the backcountry, trail quotas are common, and dogs are never permitted on the trail. Entrance fees are charged for all national parks.

State Parks

Run by the state of California, state parks are generally small and protect a wide variety of natural features. They are common along the coast and tend to be the most costly places to visit—day-use fees are always charged, and state park campgrounds are among the most expensive in the state. Regulations are generally strict—car camping is permitted only in designated campgrounds, backcountry camping (when possible) is usually allowed only at designated trail camps, and dogs are never allowed in the backcountry. All state park campgrounds operate on the same reservation system; call 800-444-7275 or visit reserveamerica.com to reserve a site.

Be prepared. Adventure awaits.

Note that the budget for the California state park system is often in flux and is almost always underfunded. Staffing and available amenities often vary from year to year as a result. In some cases, entire parks have closed during the off-season (typically November–April). Other parks have reduced the open seasons for their campgrounds and backcountry trail camps at times. The situation is fluid and will likely remain so in the months and years ahead. Call ahead to check current park status, especially if you’re planning a visit during the off-season.

National Forests

As “the land of many uses,” national forests are America’s playgrounds. Run by the federal government (Department of Agriculture), the US Forest Service manages the land for a wide variety of purposes—logging, ranching, hunting, and hiking are all permitted—and regulations outside of wilderness areas are generally much fewer than on other public lands.

Dogs are allowed, camping is permitted virtually anywhere, wilderness permits are not required for backcountry camping, and no use fees are charged. A campfire permit is required for the use of stoves and campfires, obtainable free from any Forest Service ranger station and valid across the state for the entire year.

Roads are generally poor, commonly unpaved, and often challenging and confusing to navigate. National forest maps are usually remarkably accurate, indicate areas of private property, and are all but essential for road navigation. Organized national forest campgrounds are plentiful across the state and tend to be inexpensive, but they often lack amenities (pit toilets are common).

Wilderness Areas

Managed to protect the land’s wilderness aspects, designated wilderness areas can be found in national forests throughout the state, as well as some state and national parks. No roads exist, all motorized vehicles are prohibited, and logging is not permitted. Wilderness permits are required in all but the most remote areas and can be obtained free at any nearby ranger station. Due to heavy use, the wilderness areas in the Sierra Nevada are more extensively managed—trail quotas are often in effect for backpackers. Dogs are usually allowed, and backcountry camping is permitted almost anywhere. Facilities and amenities are nonexistent—come prepared.

Other Agencies

City and county parks are common in the Bay Area and are almost all day-use only. Entrance fees are usually charged. Dogs are generally not permitted, but a few exceptions exist, most notably in the Bay Area’s East Bay Regional Park District. The Bureau of Land Management manages a few regions covered by the book. Much like national forests, they have few regulations and almost no amenities or facilities. Dogs are permitted.

Other Considerations

Children

While this book is not designed for families with young children, several short hikes are perfectly suitable for the youngest hikers; look for the symbol in the trip header or the chart, or check the complete list in “Hikes by Theme”.

Campgrounds

Campgrounds vary markedly depending on location. State and national park campgrounds are generally the most luxurious, but they're often expensive and crowded. If you can cope with pit toilets, US Forest Service campgrounds are usually much more basic, smaller, and cheaper.