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INTRODUCTION

There are two ways to soar among the magnificent peaks of the Tyrolean Alps. One is in an aeroplane as you fly into Innsbruck. The other, more challenging and exciting, is to follow the Adlerweg as it crosses the entire length of the Tyrol from St. Johann in Tirol in the east, to St. Anton am Arlberg in the west. Not only will you experience the Wilder Kaiser, Brandenberg, Rofan, Karwendel, and Lechtaler Alps close up, but you should also have spectacular distant views of Austria’s other principal mountain ranges including Grossglockner, Grossvenediger, and the Tuxer and Stubai Alps. As a bonus, you will pass immediately below the towering south face of Zugspitze, Bavaria’s (and Germany’s) highest mountain.

Eagle motif found at key points along the Adlerweg

The main route of the Adlerweg is a 300km (188-mile) long-distance path traversing the Austrian Tyrol, keeping mostly to the mountains that form the northern side of Inntal, the Inn valley. It is made up of 23 principal stages, with a total height gain of nearly 17,000m. In addition, there are six easier variant stages that avoid the more airy parts, and eight more difficult ‘Alpine’ stages that provide an alternative high-level route through the Lechtaler Alps. Well maintained and waymarked throughout, the Adlerweg follows established mountain and valley tracks and allows you to reach the tops of two mountains, Rofanspitze (2259m) and Birkkarspitze (2749m). Accessible to walkers of all abilities, it can be completed by a fit walker in 15 days, although if you wish to take things more gently, and allow time to visit attractions en route, it would be best to allow three weeks. Most of the stages are well connected by public transport (train, postbus, cablecar and chairlift), making it possible to tackle shorter trips as day excursions or weekend overnight breaks.

The path was conceived and implemented by the Tyrol regional tourist organisation, who named it the Eagle’s Way (adler being German for ‘eagle’) as, when overlaid on the map, its silhouette appears in the shape of an eagle, the outspread wings of which reach from one end of the Tyrol to the other, with Innsbruck, in the middle, as its head. The proud eagle is said to represent the feelings of freedom and independence, power and wisdom, grandeur and dignity, which you can experience by hiking the Eagle’s Way. Since the introduction of the main route, the project has grown as offshoots from the path have spread right across the Tyrol: the eagle has grown legs. There is even a separate ‘Eaglet’ path of eight stages in Ost Tirol. The complete Adlerweg network now includes 126 stages with a vertical rise of about 87,000m. This guide concentrates on the 23-stage main route, plus the six ‘easier’ variant stages and eight ‘harder’ Alpine high-level stages.

Hiking in the Tyrol would not be complete without Austria’s legendary hospitality and native cuisine. Since overnight accommodation in the form of serviced mountain hutten, inns, guesthouses or hotels can be found at the end of each day’s walk, all you will need to carry is a sheet sleeping bag. Everywhere along the way there are convenient places to eat and drink. These range from simple alpine pasture huts in the mountains, offering locally produced fare, to award-winning restaurants in the towns and valleys. Indeed the accommodation and refreshment opportunities are so well spaced that, with a little forward planning, it is possible to walk the whole route without once needing to take a picnic lunch. On most stages, frequent water fountains and springs provide a safe source of drinking water.

A wide variety of animals and plants can be found. The lower meadows are carpeted with wild flowers in late spring, while once the snow disappears the upper slopes come alive with alpine plants, including edelweiss and gentian. Chamois, ibex and marmots can be seen throughout the route. However, as you are walking the Eagle’s Way, the creature you will most want to find is likely to be the eponymous golden eagle. Keep a good lookout and you may see one soaring around the highest peaks. If, however, wild eagles prove illusive, the route passes Innsbruck’s Alpine zoo, where there are two captive golden eagles.

Golden eagle in Innsbruck Alpen zoo (Stage 12a)

The Tyrol tourist organisation describes the Adlerweg as ‘arguably the most beautiful long-distance trail in Austria’. Does it live up to this claim? That is for you to decide. Walk it and see!

Background

Austria

Located in the centre of the continent straddling the Alps, Austria is Europe’s 17th largest country by size, and, with 8.3 million inhabitants, its 18th by population. It shares borders with Germany (with which it also shares a common language), the Czech Republic, Hungary, Croatia, Slovenia, Italy, Switzerland and Liechtenstein. Its position with the Danube, one of Europe’s most important waterways, to the north, and the Brenner, the most accessible alpine pass, to the south, has made Austria the crossroads of central Europe.

Portrait of Hapsburg Empress Maria Theresa in Hofburg gallery, Innsbruck (Stage 12a)

During the 18th and 19th centuries, Austria’s political, economic and military significance surpassed its modest size. After the turning back of Islamic incursions into Europe at the battle of Vienna (1683), a long period of rule by one family enabled Austria to maintain strong stable government and build a pan-European empire. The Hapsburg emperors ruled until defeat in World War 1 led to the break-up of the Austro-Hungarian Empire by the Treaty of Versailles in 1919.

Interior of St Leonhard’s Kapelle, Barnstatt (Stage 2)

A period of economic and political uncertainty during the 1920s and 1930s, (when many mountain refuges fell into disrepair), was followed by the Anschluss political union with Germany in 1938 and Austrian participation on the Axis side in World War 2. After the war, government was briefly divided between the victorious allied powers until the current republic was established in 1955. Austria joined the EU in 1995 and the subsequent signing of the Schengen Agreement led to the removal of border controls.

Austria is a federal republic of nine states. The majority of the population lives in four lowland states, including the capital Vienna, to the north and east of the country. Population density in the alpine states of the south and west, including Tyrol, is much lower.

Tyrol

Tyrol sits southwest of the bulk of Austria, between the states of Salzburg (east) and Voralberg (west). Its dominant feature is the deep west-to-east gash of the Inn valley between the north limestone Alps (Nordlichen Kalkalpen) and the central high Alps, with most of the 700,000 population living along this axis. Tyrol’s northern border, with Germany, runs through the N Kalkalpen, and its southern, Italian, border through the central Alps.

Tyrol’s emergence as an identifiable state began in the 11th century when the Counts of Tirol from Meran (today Merano in northern Italy) gradually extended their control over the whole region. When the last Count (or rather Countess) died heirless, control passed to the Austrian Hapsburgs with Tyrol becoming part of Austria in 1363. Apart from a brief period of Bavarian rule during the Napoleonic wars it has remained Austrian ever since. However, Tyrol today is much smaller than Hapsburg Tyrol, as the peace treaties that concluded WW1 transferred sovereignty over Sud Tirol and Triente to Italy.

Apart from Reutte in the northwest and Kitzbuhel in the east, the main towns spread along the Inn valley from Kufstein and Schwaz in the lower valley, through Innsbruck in the centre, to Imst and Landeck in the upper valley. By far the largest town is the state capital, Innsbruck.

Tyrol is a region of open countryside. Only 13% of the state has been developed for human habitation, with 35% forest, 30% pasture and 22% barren mountains. As a result the Tyrolean economy has been based on agriculture (mostly dairy farming), timber and mining (silver, lead, zinc, salt, limestone, silica sand and shale oil). Secondary industries have grown up using these raw materials, including wooden building materials, glass, cement and chemicals. Other light industry, originally based upon the ready availability of power from mountain streams but now using hydro-electric power, includes iron smelting, agricultural tools and machinery, railway carriages and electric power generators. In the 20th century, year round tourism (winter sports and summer touring) became a major part of the economy, while one of the largest employers in Innsbruck is the university.

Inn valley and North Kalkalpen ranges from Lechtaler Alpen to Karwendelgebirge, seen from Patscherkofel (Stage 13)

Note Throughout this guide the English spelling of Tyrol is used, except for proper nouns such as ‘Count of Tirol’, ‘Sankt Johann in Tirol’ or ‘Tirol Werbung’, where the German Tirol is used.

The Adlerweg

The Adlerweg is a project promoted by Tirol Werbung (the state tourism promotional organisation) to encourage walkers to explore more of the region. It came to fruition in 2005 with the opening of the main route between Sankt Johann in Tirol, in the east of Tyrol, and Sankt Anton am Arlberg, on the western border with Voralberg. The route has no ‘new’ paths, being a series of existing paths and tracks linked by common signposting, usually by means of adding an Adlerweg motif to existing signposts.

The 23 stages of the main route have varying degrees of difficulty, although none requires climbing skills or equipment. Four of the stages are graded ‘black’ (difficult), although these have parallel easier alternatives. In addition, the Adlerweg makes use of the Lechtaler Alpen Hohenweg (high-level route) to provide a challenging alternative to the stages through the Lechtal valley.

There is, however, a political dimension to the project. Tirol Werbung is funded by regional government and by payments from all of the local government areas (gemeinde) in the region. As a result, there was pressure to ensure the route visited as many gemeinde as possible. This has had two effects. Firstly, the route makes occasional deviations to visit villages off the direct route (Steinberg am Rofan in Stages 6/7 is the most obvious example). Secondly, the project was extended by the addition of 88 regional paths that form a series of legs running off the original route, thus taking the Adlerweg name into many other parts of Tyrol.

As a result, a degree of confusion has crept in. Mapmakers have been encouraged to add ‘Adlerweg’ or the eagle motif to their maps of the region. This has been done without discriminating between main route, easier variants, alpine high route and regional extensions, with ‘Adlerweg’ now popping up all over the map, making it difficult to identify the correct route. Furthermore, there are path junctions where both forks are signposted as Adlerweg!

One aspect of the Adlerweg that stands out, making it different from most other long-distance paths, is the use made of various modes of public transport to speed access to and descent from the mountains. As a result you will encounter three cablecars, three chairlifts, three trains, a funicular, a tram and a bus, all integrated into the path. It is possible to avoid some of the cablecars and chairlifts, and this guide indicates where such options occur.

Alpenpark sign in Karwendelgebirge (Stages 8–12)

National parks and protected areas

Although going through no designated national parks, much of the route is through areas with a high level of environmental protection or national forest. The Wilderkaiser, Karwendel, Arnspitze and most of Lechtal valley are naturschutzgebieten (NSG, nature protected areas) while other places are landschaftsschutzgebieten (LSG, similar to Areas of Special Scientific Interest in the UK). Brandenberg and Tegestal are national forests managed by Osterreichische Bundesforste (OBF). Proposals have been made to create national parks, but this high level of protection has been blocked by opposition from hunting interests, which are strong in Tyrol. Camping, lighting fires, disturbing wildlife or removing plants are prohibited in these areas.

Preparation

When to go

The Adlerweg is a summer walk with a season from mid-June to early October, although after heavy winter snowfall significant snow may remain at higher altitudes until mid-July, with early season falls commencing in early September. In a few locations, snow can remain all year. Opening and closing dates of mountain refuges and restaurants reflect the walkability of the paths, with refuges on the highest stages not opening until late June/early July and closing from mid-September. The most popular period for walking in Tyrol is mid-July to late August, and this is when you may encounter busy refuges, particularly those such as Karwendelhaus that coincide with the popular Vital Route mountain bike trail. You will meet very few walkers actually following the Adlerweg, although you will encounter many day walkers and even some walking the Munich to Venice long-distance route. Parts of the walk can be attempted in winter, but as this requires specialist skills and equipment it is not covered in this guide.

Apart from late lying snow, or early snowfalls, the going underfoot is usually excellent. The underlying stratum is limestone, resulting in good drainage with very few places prone to boggy conditions. After rain, or in mist, rocks can get very slippery and some of the stages over exposed rock can become treacherous. These parts of the trail are usually protected by fixed steel cables providing security in slippery conditions.

How long will it take?

The Adlerweg is not a walk to take lightly. It is possible to walk the entire route in 15 days, but this requires an average of seven hours’ walking every day, covering 20km, mostly above 1000m and sometimes above 2000m. To achieve this daily distance and ascent at altitude you need a good level of fitness. If you wish to take it more gently, five hours walking, covering 14km per day, will enable you to complete the walk in three weeks. Moreover, this will allow you time to see more of the region and visit a number of attractions passed en route such as a cruise on Achensee, a visit to the Alpen zoo or a cablecar to the summit of Zugspitze.

Each of the 23 stages can be walked in a day, most in less than this, allowing one and a half or two stages to be combined on most days. However a few stages, particularly Stage 11 (the crossing of Birkkarspitze from Karwendelhaus to Hallerangeralm), take a full day. Appendix B gives a suggested schedule showing which stages can be combined to walk the path in either 15 or 21 days.

The Adlerweg climbs into Rofangebirge through Schauertalkar to reach Schauertalsattel (Stage 7)

With a few exceptions, which are shown in the text, it is not usually necessary to book ahead. Indeed Alpenverein (AV) refuges only require reservations from groups and recommend other members not to book, as places are guaranteed. However if you want a bedroom rather than a dormitory place, booking could be useful. For locations such as Hintersteinersee, Kaiserhaus, Fernstein and Bschlabs, where there is no AV accommodation and only one private guesthouse/inn/hotel, reservations are recommended. The same applies to private refuges with only a small number of beds, particularly at weekends.

HOLIDAYS IN AUSTRIA

There are a number of Austrian national holidays during the summer. On these days banks are closed and public transport operates feiertage (holiday) timetables, which are usually the same as Sunday schedules.

 Easter: variable, late March to late April

 May day: 1 May

 Ascension day: variable, May

 Whit Monday: variable, mid-May to mid-June

 Corpus Christi: variable, late May to late June

 Assumption day: 15 August

 National day: 26 October

 All Saints day: 1 November

School summer holidays run from mid-July to mid-September. Most towns and villages have summer festival days, and from mid-September to early October many villages celebrate Almabetriebsfest, when cows are welcomed back from summer mountain pastures (see box in Stage 21). In Innsbruck, the battle of Bergisel is commemorated on 14 August.

Tourist offices

Tourist offices operate at both regional and local levels. Tirol Werbung in Innsbruck is responsible for marketing Tyrol as a tourist destination and part of this role involves setting up, managing and promoting the Adlerweg network of paths. They produce a map and guide to all 128 stages and through their website www.adlerweg.tirol.at individual Kompass 1:50,000 maps of each stage can be downloaded. While the guidebook provides excellent outline information, it is not sufficiently detailed to walk the path as only one paragraph is allocated to each stage.

A popular pastime of Tyrolean walkers is to collect the passport type stamps available at every refuge and most hotels and guesthouses. To encourage Adlerweg walkers to participate, Tirol Werbung has produced a stempelbuch (stamping book) that can be obtained from their offices in Innsbruck. When you have completed your walk, you can claim an eagle pin, in gold, silver or bronze colours depending on how many stamps you have collected. Alternatively, a few pages at the end of this book have been left clear for you to collect your stamps.

Every town and most villages have their own local tourist office, which can provide local maps and full details of accommodation and events in their area. Opening times vary and smaller offices may not be open at weekends. Staff are generally very helpful and speak good English. Advice is provided on all grades of accommodation and most offices will call to check vacancies and make reservations. They cannot make reservations ‘out of area’ but are usually willing to phone the relevant local office and relay your requirements. Contact details for all tourist offices can be found in Appendix C.

Alpine Club

Founded in 1862, the Oesterreichischer Alpenverein (OeAV, Austrian Alpine Club) now has nearly 400,000 members involved in all kinds of mountain sports. Among other activities, it is responsible for building, maintaining and modernising a large number of mountain refuges, waymarking and maintaining footpaths, producing maps and guidebooks and aiding the independent rescue service. It works closely with the Deutsche Alpenverein (DAV, German Alpine Club) which owns and operates the majority of mountain refuges on the Adlerweg. Many of these were built by DAV sections early in the 20th century to provide mountain recreational facilities for members throughout Germany. After WW2 they were placed under Austrian control, but since the sixties have been returned to their former owners.

Facilities can be used by anyone, but members obtain specific benefits including substantial discounts on accommodation and guaranteed overnight space in club refuges, annual rescue and repatriation insurance and maps and guidebooks at discounted prices. Benefits are available on a reciprocal basis with other national alpine clubs, including DAV.

A typical Alpenverein refuge – Lamsenjochhutte (Stage 8)

If you are planning to walk the Adlerweg, and are not a member of an alpine club, you are strongly recommended to join OeAV. The easiest way to do this is to become a member of AAC (UK), also known as Sektion Britannia. Contact details are in Appendix D. AAC (UK) is a fully-fledged section of OeAV with over 6000 members. Annual membership in 2011 cost £42, with a 25% reduction for seniors (over 60) and juniors (under 16).

Getting there

By air is the only way of getting from the UK to the start of the Adlerweg in one day. There are direct flights by various airlines from a number of UK airports to Munich, Innsbruck or Salzburg.

 From Munich airport, frequent S-bahn trains (S8 to Munich Ost (37min) and S1 to Munich Hbf (40min)), link the airport with the DB German rail network. Regular DB trains connect Munich with Rosenheim, Kufstein and Worgl in the Inn valley. OBB (Austrian) trains connect Worgl with St Johann.

 From Salzburg airport, bus route 2 runs to Salzburg Hbf from where OBB trains enable you to reach St Johann via Bischofshofen.

 From Innsbruck airport there is a bus to Innsbruck Hbf for regular OBB trains to Worgl and St Johann.

Return from St Anton by OBB trains to Innsbruck then connect for Munich via Kufstein or Garmish, or for Salzburg via Kufstein or via Bischofshofen. An alternative return route from St Anton is via OBB and SBB (Swiss) direct trains to Zurich. Frequent trains connect Zurich Hbf with Zurich airport, where various airlines fly to UK airports.

Travel by rail will take two days, with an overnight break necessary in Cologne, Frankfurt or Munich. The best route is to take the Eurostar from London to either Brussels or Paris.

 From London St Pancras to Brussels by Eurostar (approx 2-hourly), then Brussels to Cologne or Frankfurt by Thalys or DB ICE (approx 2-hourly) and Cologne or Frankfurt to Munich by DB (hourly, more than one route). Then travel Munich to Worgl by DB, with OBB connection at Worgl for St Anton.

 From London St Pancras to Paris Nord by Eurostar (approx hourly) and short walk to Paris Est for trains to Stuttgart by SNCF (TGV) or DB (ICE). Then Stuttgart to Munich by DB (approx hourly) and continue as above.

Return from St Anton by OBB trains via Innsbruck to Munich; or via Bregenz, Lindau, Ulm and connect for Frankfurt; then retrace your outward journey.

Tickets are available from DB or Rail Europe. Contact details are in Appendix D.

You can catch a tram from Bergisel to reach the start of Stage 13 in Igls (photo: Christine Gordon)

By road using Eurotunnel/car ferry via Calais. Autoroute/autobahn across Belgium and Germany to Munich and Kufstein, then local roads to St Johann via Elmau. Total distance Calais–St Johann 1100km. Driving time is at least 11hrs. Leaving your car in St Johann you can return by train from St Anton via Innsbruck and Worgl to pick it up.

Intermediate access

 Hintersteinersee is reached by bus, four times a day from Scheffau, which is served by buses between St Anton and Worgl.

 Kufstein: station on main line between Munich and Innsbruck. Bus services to St Johann and Innsbruck.

 Kaiserhaus: bus from Kramsach/Rattenberg, which is served by local trains between Kufstein and Innsbruck.

 Steinberg: bus from Achenkirk, which is served by bus from Jenbach changing at Maurach; or from Munich by BOB train to Tegernsee and bus to Achenkirk.

 Achensee (Maurach/Pertisau): bus (hourly) or Achenseebahn train (four/five per day) from Jenbach main line. Also by train and bus from Munich via Achenkirk.

 Absam: frequent local buses from Hall and Innsbruck.In high season a vintage bus runs between Pertisau and Gramaialm (Stage 8)

 Innsbruck: airport with direct flights from the UK. Main line station with international trains to Munich, Vienna, Salzburg, Verona, Milan and Zurich. Many bus services.

 Hochzirl/Seefeld/Geissenbach/Scharnitz: stations served by trains on Mittenwald line between Innsbruck and Garmish/Munich.

 Leutasch: bus from Seefeld.

 Ehrwald/Lermoos: trains from Innsbruck or Munich changing at Garmish.

 Fernstein: bus service between Imst/Nassereith and Lermoos/Reutte.

 Bschlabs/Boden: three buses per day from Elmen in Lechtal valley.

 Lechtal valley: regular bus service between Reutte and Steeg calling at villages along the Lechtal valley. Reutte is served by trains from Innsbruck or Munich, changing at Garmish.

 Kaisers: six buses per day from Steeg.

 Steeg: buses from St Anton, changing at Lech.

Navigation

Path grading

Throughout the Tyrol a standard system is used to grade the level of experience, skills, fitness and equipment required to walk mountain paths. There are three grades: wanderweg, roter bergweg and schwarzer bergweg. The system is colour coded, with white (wanderweg), red (roter bergweg) or black (schwarzer bergweg), usually appearing in a small circle on signposts. The official grading appears in this guide in the introduction to each stage. The grade relates to the most difficult part you will encounter in a stage. There is one exception, in Stage 4, where despite the stage being classified red, the ridge walk section from Koglhorndl to Hundsalmjoch is graded black. An alternative route is signposted avoiding this section.

 Wanderweg (white) are easily accessible footpaths, generally wide with only slight gradients. There is no exposure, and neither a head for heights nor mountain equipment is needed. Four stages are classified wanderweg.

 Roter bergweg (red) are trails with a moderate level of difficulty, sometimes steep or narrow with short cable-aided sections possible. Surefootedness, a reasonable head for heights and appropriate physical condition are required. No specialist mountain equipment is needed, although a good pair of walking boots and appropriate clothing is essential. The majority of Adlerweg stages are roter bergweg.

 Schwarzer bergweg (black) are steeper, more difficult stages, often narrow with aided scrambling sections and exposure to steep drops. Experience of mountain walking is essential, together with a reasonable level of physical fitness, surefootedness and a good head for heights. However, these stages are walks or scrambles, not climbs, so no specialist mountaineering equipment is needed. There are four schwarzer bergweg stages on the main Adlerweg, although these can be avoided with easier alternatives, plus four more on the Lechtaler Alpen Hohenweg.

Waymarking

The Adlerweg network is marked with a standard series of signs and signposts. At the beginning of most stages is a signboard showing the whole stage together with timing, distance and height difference. En route signposting using yellow fingerposts is almost universal and excellent. These fingerposts can be found at most path junctions, and even in remote locations they leave little doubt as to which path to take. They usually show the next few destinations together with estimated walking times and path grade (white/red/black). The Adlerweg is identified on these signs by an eagle silhouette motif, and often by name. Occasionally, older style black and white signboards are encountered, although these are steadily being replaced.

Yellow fingerposts showing the Adlerweg are found at almost every path junction

Between fingerposts, the path is identified by the use of red and white paint flashes on convenient surfaces such as rocks, trees, walls and buildings. These provide waymarking over difficult ground and are essential through forests, across scree and in open pasture where the path may sometimes be indistinct. Occasionally small cairns mark the route, but in misty conditions, paint flashes are considerably more visible. On some stages, where the Adlerweg uses another established path such as Wilder Kaiser Steig in Stage 2, other coloured paint flashes may be encountered. In Voralberg, Stage 22, yellow/white flashes are used for wanderweg, red/white for roter bergweg, and blue/white for schwarzer bergweg.

GPS

All maps listed are GPS compatible under WGS 84 with co-ordinates in both degrees/minutes and UTM. The OeAV CD/ROM maps can be downloaded to GPS. Most refuges publish their GPS co-ordinates on their websites and a complete list is published in OeAV hutten guide. An increasing number of signposts show GPS co-ordinates.

Guidebooks

Tirol tourist board in Innsbruck has produced a 96-page summary guide and accompanying map to all 128 main, alternative and regional stages. While this gives an overview of each stage, it is not suitable to take with you when walking. The first edition (2007) was published in English and German versions, but the second edition (2010) is available in German only. It is available from Tirol Werbung, Maria Theresien Strasse 55, Innsbruck 6010 (www.adlerweg.tirol.at).

Signs at the start and finish of each stage

Bruckmann have published a 144-page guide to all main, variant and regional paths, with a detailed description of the main stages with full colour mapping, plus variant and regional paths in summary form. It is available in German only: Der Adlerweg, Stefanie Holzer (2009) ISBN 978-3-7654-4796-9 Bruckmann Verlag, Postfach 40 02 09, D-80702 Munchen (www.bruckmann.de).

Alpenverein Hutte Book contains details of all alpine refuges in Austria, Germany and Sud Tirol. It is in German with an English key explaining symbols and is available from Austrian Alpine Club UK, 12a North St, Wareham, Dorset BH20 4AG (www.aacuk.org.uk).

Maps

This guide is not intended for use on its own. It is essential to have walking maps at a scale of 1:50,000 or 1:25,000. Maps from three publishers cover the route, and sheet numbers are shown for each stage. However, there are differences between the published maps in terms of scale, coverage and accuracy, as well as when information was researched.

The Adlerweg crosses Gruba bowl from Rofanspitze, just visible right of centre, passing beneath Rosskopf (Stage 7)

Oesterreichischer Alpenverein (AV) maps cover almost 90% of the route at 1:25,000. There is no coverage of the walk-in from St Johann, and the Brandenberger Stages 4, 5 and part of Stages 6 and U6, with Stage 13 covered only at 1:50,000. These maps give the most comprehensive coverage of the Adlerweg, but 14 sheets are required (13 AV plus one from another publisher for the Brandenberger Alpen). They have been revised from original OeAV maps to update land use, path networks and settlements, and do show the Adlerweg. Contours are at 20m intervals overlaid with black hairline depiction of rock features. The maps are GPS compatible with UTM grid. Sheets required are: 8, 6, 5/3, 5/2, 5/1, 4/3, 4/2, 4/1, 3/4, 3/3, 3/2 and 2/2 (all 1:25,000) and 31/5 (1:50,000) plus Kompass 28.

A DVD is available of all OeAV maps. From this you can print your own strip maps of the route, at an enhanced scale (1:10,000), with considerable weight and space saving compared with carrying printed maps.

Freytag and Berndt (FB) cover the route in six sheets at 1:50,000. In addition, there is a 1:25,000 map of Karwendel that can be used instead of the 1:50,000. Maps come with an enclosed booklet (in German) of tourist information, path and walking routes, mountain refuges and guesthouses, and GPS details of key points shown on the maps. All sheets are updated regularly, using satellite photography plus information from tourist offices and alpine clubs, and are reissued at three-year intervals. Contours are at 100m intervals. Maps are GPS compatible with UTM grid. Sheets required are: 301, 321, 322, 241, 352 and 351. Sheet 5322 (1:25,000) can be used instead of 322.

Kompass (K) cover the route, either with two maps at 1:25,000, two maps at 1:35,000 and three maps at 1:50,000; or with six maps all at 1:50,000. The maps come with a booklet giving details of towns, villages, mountain paths and accommodation. Contours are at 40m intervals, and the maps are GPS compatible with UTM grid. Details and path markings are clearer than on Freytag and Berndt maps. The larger scale maps are simply enlargements of the 1:50,000, making them easier to read but with no greater detail. The Adlerweg is shown on all sheets. Sheets required are: 9, 28, 26, 36, 5 and 24 (all 1:50,000); or 09 and 026 (1:25,000), 027 and 036 (1:35,000) and 28, 5 and 24 (1:50,000).

Tourist office maps: in addition to the published maps, Kompass have produced maps for some of the local tourist organisations, with a 1:50,000 map on one side and a local map or panorama on the reverse. These are available free from local tourist offices. Kompass maps are also used by Tirol Werbung for their strip maps of each stage, and these can be downloaded free from www.adlerweg.tirol.at. Local tourist offices also produce street maps of the towns and villages passed through.

All the maps are available from leading map shops, including Stanfords in London and The Map Shop in Upton upon Severn, and are widely available in Austria. OeAV maps and the DVD can also be obtained from either OeAV in Innsbruck or OeAV Britannia Section at www.aacuk.org.uk at a discounted price for AV members.

RECOMMENDED MAPS TO COVER THE ENTIRE ADLERWEG ROUTE

1:25,000

 AV 8, 6, 5/3, 5/2, 5/1, 4/3, 4/2, 4/1, 3/4, 3/3, 3/2 and 2/2

1:50,000

 AV 31/5, Kompass 28

Accommodation

Places to stay overnight on the Adlerweg vary from basic mountain refuges to five star hotels. In general you will need to stay in refuges when in the mountains, while on evenings when the path leads down into the valleys, you will find a variety of bed & breakfasts, guesthouses, inns and hotels. Such a network of accommodation means that the need to camp is rare and there are very few official camping sites. However, a tent is not needed as you are never more than a day’s walk from accommodation, and usually only half a day.

Mountain refuges

Austrian mountains are well provided with a huge network of serviced mountain walkers’ refuges, called in German hutte (pl hutten). Refuges are either operated by the Austrian (OeAV) or German (DAV) Alpenverein (alpine clubs), or are privately run. On or near to the Adlerweg and its variants there are 23 Alpenverein refuges and 14 private ones.

Alpine club refuges are owned and managed by individual sections of Alpenverein and this is often reflected in their names, such as Bayreutherhutte and Stuttgarterhutte. The UK section has no refuges of its own, but members are encouraged to contribute to a fund that helps maintain some of the less well funded refuges. On the Adlerweg, Steinseehutte in the Lechtaler Alpen has been a beneficiary of this fund, contributing to the installation of solar heating and warm showers.

Refuges are graded according to their facilities, and this is reflected in the overnight price. Accommodation can be in individual rooms sleeping from two to eight, or in the slightly cheaper lager, a mixed-sex dormitory often in the roof space. Most refuges have hot water and many have hot showers for which there is a small charge. Blankets and pillows are provided, but guests are expected to provide their own sheets. Advance booking can be made, and this is required for large groups. At weekends in high season, some refuges, particularly those in the Karwendel, can be very full. However, AV members are guaranteed somewhere to sleep and a proportion of places are kept back for this purpose. At very busy times, spare mattresses and put-me-up beds can fill the dining rooms and corridors. Discounts of 30% to 50% on accommodation (not food) are made for AV members and for members of other national alpine clubs. Self-catering is not usually possible, except for Loreahutte (Stage A17), which is unserviced. Overall, AV refuges offer a warm, welcoming and good value place to eat and sleep.

Most private refuges offer similar facilities and services to AV refuges. Rooms may be a little less spartan, prices slightly higher with no discounts available to AV members and there are no guaranteed places. In some locations (at the top of Rofan cablecar or at Hallerangeralm, for instance) private and AV refuges stand in close proximity to each other, giving walkers a choice. It is recommended that AV members use the AV refuge while non-members should take the private option.

Wilde Bande Steig contours high above Isstal towards Stempeljoch col with Pfeiserspitze on the left (Stage 12)

Hotels, inns, guesthouses, bed & breakfast and youth hostels

Off the mountains, in the towns and villages and in the valleys, you will need to stay in commercial accommodation. Virtually all accommodation is vetted and graded by local tourist organisations and booking can be made through local tourist offices. Only two ‘valley end’ stages have only one accommodation option, Stage 5 at the Kaiserhaus inn and Stage 17 at the Fernstein Castle Hotel.

Hotels tend to be full service establishments with all facilities (restaurant, bar, sauna, gym and perhaps a pool). Inns, often called haus (although this term can also refer to some mountain refuges) are simpler, often in remote locations, and usually have a restaurant. Guesthouses (gasthof) sometimes have a restaurant, but not always. B&Bs are private houses that take overnight guests. They have no restaurant, but do provide breakfast. They can usually be identified by a sign showing zimmer frei (room available). Inns, guesthouses and B&Bs can all offer very good value, sometimes no more expensive than mountain refuges. Prices usually include breakfast. There are only two youth hostels (Jugendherberge) on the Adlerweg, in Maurach and Innsbruck.

Camping

Much of the route is through protected areas where wild camping is prohibited. Wild camping is possible in a few places, but in general the availability of affordable mountain accommodation means very few Adlerweg walkers choose to camp. There are only six official campsites en route plus six others a short distance away.

Campsites en route are at Langkampfen, Maurach, Lermoos, Fernstein, Haselgehr and Elbigenalp. Campsites off-route can be found at St Johann, Kufstein, Innsbruck, Scharnitz, Leutasch and Ehrwald.

Food and drink

Places to eat

The Adlerweg is well provided with places where walkers can find food and beverages. With one exception, all the refuges on the trail provide lunch and those with accommodation serve breakfast and dinner. (The exception is Loreahutte at the end of Stage A17, which is self-catering). In addition, there are a number of almhutten (pasture huts) providing lunchtime fare. Every town and village passed through has somewhere to eat, even tiny hamlets like Engalm (Stage 9) and Bschlabs (Stage 19) have gaststatte.

Evening in a busy refuge – Karwendelhaus (Stages 10 and 11)

Refuges generally offer a choice of hot and cold meals for lunch and dinner, the variety, range and prices depending upon the size, popularity and accessibility of the refuge. Most have vehicular or goods lift access, although some (most notably Anhalterhutte at end of Stage 18) need supplies to be carried at least part way. Food is normally of the hearty/filling variety rather than gourmet cuisine. An inclusive three course set dinner with accommodation and breakfast is available (often only to prebooked AV members) in some refuges. Many establishments offer their own specialities, but as these depend upon particular wardens, who may change from year to year, they are not listed in this guide. Up to date information can usually be obtained from each refuge’s web site or from the OeAV hutten guide. In the past specialities have included such things as free-range turkey (Hohlensteinhaus), game, Italian food, homemade cakes and even Nepalese cooking (Anhalterhutte).

Pasture huts (almhutten) provide a more limited lunchtime fare. Usually operated by the local farmer as a side venture, they typically serve jausen (cold meats, ham, cheese with bread and pickles) accompanied by fresh milk, fresh apple juice and other beverages. Produce is often home grown or reared. Opening hours are more limited than in refuges, with some opening weekends only, except in high season.

A restaurant usually indicates a slightly more formal environment with uniformed servers and starched table linen, whereas a gaststatte is generally a more relaxed local eatery. A speisesaal is a dining room usually within a hotel or guesthouse, while a stube is a dining room decorated in traditional style. An imbisstube is a snackbar.

With the exception of a few upmarket establishments in Innsbruck, meal prices in local restaurants are comparable with prices in refuges (they do not have the added costs of transportation and live-in labour). A wide range of Tyrolean, Austrian and international food is available. Many restaurants, but not all, have menus available in English. When you want to settle up, you can ask either ‘zahlen bitte’ (‘can I pay please?’) or for die rechnung (the bill). Tipping is not expected in Austrian restaurants, but it is customary to leave your small change.

Austrian/German food

Although the Adlerweg is entirely in Austria, many refuges are operated by German AV sections and some can only be supplied from the north (Bavarian) side of the mountains. The food and beverages you will encounter will thus be a mix of Tyrolean and Bavarian cuisine.

Refuges usually offer two choices of breakfast (fruhstuck): simple continental (bread, butter, jam and tea/coffee) or a larger version that includes these dishes plus cold meats and cheese. Boiled eggs may be available and sometimes fruit juice and breakfast cereals. In refuges, breakfast usually starts from 0700.

Lunch (mittagessen) from 1200 is the main meal of an Austrian day, although walkers often choose a lighter lunch, with the main meal in the evening. A typical Austrian snack, which may be taken from mid-morning until mid-afternoon, is a jause, a thick slice of bread topped with cheese (kase) or ham (schinken). A more substantial version consisting of a selection of meats or cheeses and bread (rather like a Ploughman’s lunch) is served on a wooden platter and known as a brettjause. Plates of sausages and mustard (wurst mit senf) served with bread (brot) or bowls of goulash soup (beef stew flavoured with paprika) are widely available lunch snacks. Other soups include clear broths with strips of pancake, and cream soups such as knoblauch (garlic) or zweibel (onion).

Jause lunchtime snack with hefeweizen wheat beer

Cakes (kuchen), which are often homemade (hausgemacht), accompany coffee during the afternoon. Typical Austrian cakes include Sachertorte, a chocolate and apricot creation that originated in the Hotel Sacher in Vienna, but can now be found almost anywhere. If you want to try the original recipe, Café Sacher has a branch in the entrance to the Hofburg in Innsbruck, which you pass on Stage 12a.

For the evening meal (abendessen), the mainstays of Tyrolean cooking are hearty simple dishes of meat and various kinds of savoury knodel (dense, tennis ball size dumplings), kartoffel (potatoes) or spatzle (noodles). The most common meat is from the pig (pork, gammon, bacon, ham), but you will also find beef or veal, chicken, turkey and occasionally lamb. Austria’s most renowned dish, Wiener schnitzel (veal escalope fried in egg and breadcrumbs) is almost ubiquitous. Another Austrian speciality is tafelspitz (braised beef). Particularly Tyrolean is grostl, a hash made from leftover cooked pork, diced potatoes and onions fried in butter and topped with a fried egg. Hunting, which is widely practised in local forests, provides game such as venison (reh), chamois (gams) and boar (wildschwein), while anglers catch trout (forelle) from the rivers and pikeperch (zander) from the lakes. The most common vegetable is sauerkraut (pickled cabbage). Abendessen starts at 1800 in some refuges, but more typically from 1900.

The most common dessert is strudel, usually apple but sometimes apricot (marillen), poppy seed (mohn) or curd cheese (topfen). Two typically Tyrolean, and very substantial desserts, are Germknodel, a sweet dumpling filled with poppy seeds and plum jam, served with custard (vanilla sauce); and Kaiserschmarrn, a pancake made with raisins, which is served chopped and dusted with sugar.

Vegetarianism is still considered by many Austrians to be an exotic fad, and catering for vegetarians is rather hit or miss. In refuges, vegetarian fare is unlikely to be more than pasta with tomato sauce, knodel in cheese sauce or a veggie casserole.

Drinks

Tap water is usually safe to drink, and on the few occasions when it is not, you will always be told ‘nicht trinkwasser’. Water in refuges often comes straight from mountain springs. Many drinking fountains and water troughs, often drawing water from springs, can be found along the path, particularly at lower and middle levels. However as the underlying rock is mostly porous limestone, natural water sources at higher altitudes are often scarce and you should take water with you.

All the usual soft drinks (colas, lemonade, juices) are widely available. Austrian specialities include Almdudler, a drink made from mountain herbs and tasting of elderflower, often used as a mixer with white wine. A very refreshing soft drink is a mix of apple juice and sparkling water (apfelgespritz or apfelschorle). The popular energy drink Red Bull originated in Japan, but was introduced into Europe by an Austrian entrepreneur who still has his head office near Salzburg. Pasture huts often sell milk straight from the dairy, although the milk in refuges is usually UHT.

Grostl (Tyrollean pork and potato hash)

Tyrol, like nearby Bavaria, is a beer consuming region and beer is available from a wide variety of local and national breweries. Many refuges, except those in the most remote locations, have both bottled and draught beer. The main types of beer are German style lagers and hefeweizen (wheat beer). Wheat beer popularity is increasing and can be found in both helles (pale) and dunkles (dark) varieties. Very refreshing and slightly sweet tasting, wheat beer is unfiltered and thus naturally cloudy in appearance. Beer is sold in a number of standard measures; Pfiff (200mm), Kleines or Seidel (300mm) and Grosses or Halbe (half litre). Hefeweizen is traditionally served in half litre, vase shaped glasses.

Radler (shandy, a blend of beer and lemonade) is a popular and refreshing drink that is always available and, having only 50% of the alcohol content of beer is probably a better choice at lunchtime. Apfelwein (cider) made from apples can also be found.

Austria is a major wine producing country, although almost all Austrian wine comes from the eastern part of the country, with little or no production in Tyrol. Most wine produced is white with Gruner Veltliner the most commonly used grape along with Riesling, Muller Thurgau, Weissburgunder and Rulander. Red wine, mostly produced from Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder) or Zweigelt (Rotburger) grapes, is growing in popularity. Imported, mostly Italian, wines are readily available and often cheaper than Austrian wine. This is not surprising as Italian wine producing regions are closer to Tyrol than Austrian vineyards. Wine can be bought by the bottle, or as house wine (offene weine) by the glass or carafe in sizes achtel (125ml), viertel (250ml), halbe (half litre) and litre.

At the close of a meal, Austrians typically drink schnapps, a distillation of alcohol from a wide variety of fruits, berries and herbs. Tyrol is a major producer of fruit schnapps (typically about 40% alcohol) and fruit liqueurs (less strong, at about 20%). Small local suppliers often produce these (there are 20,000 registered schnapps distilleries in Austria) from fruits such as pear (williams), apricot (marillen), plum (zwetschken), and bilberry (myrtille). Particularly distinctive tastes are those of krauter, a distillation flavoured with herbs, and enzian from the root of the gentian flower. Schnapps is usually bottled commercially, although sometimes you will find local distillations decanted into unmarked bottles. Many refuges have a haus schnapps, sometimes home produced. Beware, quality and strength can vary greatly from sophisticated smoothness to throat burning firewater!

Coffee is the Austrian hot drink of choice. Legend has it that coffee was introduced in 1683 when retreating Ottoman troops left bags of beans behind after the Battle of Vienna. Coffee is served in a wide variety of styles. Mokka or kleiner schwarzer (small black) is similar to expresso, kleiner brauner (small brown) is served with milk; verlangerter (lengthened) is diluted with hot water; melange (mixed) is topped up with hot milk; while einspanner is topped with whipped cream. Italian styles such as cappuccino and café latte are also commonly served.

Tea is growing in popularity. Schwarzer tee (black tea or English breakfast tea) is widely available, along with a range of fruit and herbal teas. Tea is served with lemon. If you want it with cold milk, you need to ask for tee mit kalt milch. To warm yourself up on a cold day you could try hot chocolate with rum, a popular winter après-ski drink.

TYROLEAN FRUIT SCHNAPPS

There is a particularly wide selection of schnapps at Tuxerbauern distillery in Tulfes, near the bottom of the Glungezerbahn cablecar (Stage 13). An excellent souvenir, but not very practical to carry around. However as Tulfes is only a short bus trip from Innsbruck, you could always return at the end of your walk and pick up a bottle or two before travelling home.

Amenities and services

Shops

All towns and larger villages passed through have grocery stores, often small supermarkets, and many have pharmacies. Opening hours vary, but most open early. Grocery stores close at 1300 on Saturdays and stay closed all day Sunday. Clothing and outdoor equipment stores can be found in St Johann, Kufstein, Pertisau, Innsbruck, Leutasch, Ehrwald, Lermoos, Elbigenalp and St Anton.

Post offices

All towns and some villages have post offices. Opening hours vary.

Currency and banks

Austria changed from using Schillings to Euros in 2002. There are banks in St Johann, Kufstein, Unterlangkampfen, Maurach, Pertisau, Absam, Innsbruck, Igls, Weidach, Ehrwald, Lermoos, Elbigenalp, Haselgehr, Holzgau, Steeg and St Anton. Normal opening hours are 0800–1230 and 1330–1500 (weekdays only), with extended opening until 1730 on Thursdays. Most branches have ATM machines, which enable you to make transactions in English. Contact your bank before you leave home to activate your card for use in Austria.

Telephones

Austria has extensive mobile phone (handi) coverage, even in mountain areas where signals can often be received from the valleys below. Contact your network provider before you leave home to ensure your phone is enabled for foreign use and that you have the optimum price package. If you plan to make many local calls once you have arrived, it usually pays to obtain a local SIM card. The international dialling code for Austria is 0043. Some DAV refuges are contacted via Germany (international dialling code 0049).

An increasing number of hotels, guesthouses and even a few refuges make internet access available to guests, often free but sometimes for a small fee.

Electricity

Voltage is 220v, 50HzAC. Plugs are standard European two-pin round.

Bschlabs church from the opposite side of Bschlabertal (Stage 19)

The natural environment

Physical geography

The Alps, which form a high mountain barrier between northern and southern Europe, are some of the youngest European mountains. They were formed approximately 50 million years ago, being pushed up by the collision of the African and European tectonic plates. The Alps run west to east through Austria and consist of three parallel mountain ranges, the high, mainly granite, central Alps flanked by the slightly lower northern and southern calcareous limestone chains. The Adlerweg traverses the most northerly of these, the Nordlichen Kalkalpen, following the range from east to west. For much of its length there are extensive views south across the deep glacial defile of the Inn valley with the higher permanently snow-capped central Alps on the horizon, and occasional views north across the Alpine foothills to the basin of the Danube beyond.

The chain is broken into a series of blocks by a number of north to south glacial river valleys that have broken through the mountains. As their name implies, the calcareous Alps are composed mostly of porous limestone, with the exact composition of this limestone varying from block to block. The two most significant geological aspects of the region are glaciation and karst country.

During the great ice ages, ice sheets covered all of central and northern Europe. As the ice retreated, great glaciers carved deep valleys through the Austrian Alps, the deepest and longest forming the Inn valley. Running east from the Engadine region of Switzerland right across Tyrol, where it separates the northern and central Alpine ranges, it reaches the Danube basin beyond Kufstein. Along its length, the Inn is joined by lateral glacial valleys flowing in from north and south. Most of the glaciers have long since melted and only a few remain, mostly in the high central Alps. The only remaining glacier encountered by the Adlerweg is Pazielferner above St Anton and upper Lechtal.

The enduring legacies left behind by the retreating glaciers are characteristic deep U-shaped valleys and morainic lakes. Throughout the walk you will be able to trace old glacial flows, from smooth bowl-shaped cirques surrounded on three sides by high jagged mountains, down stepped valleys blocked by terminal moraines containing either morainic lakes or the dried up beds of earlier lakes. The descent from Birkkarspitze (Stage 11) is almost a geography lesson with every kind of glacial feature on show.

The receding glaciers stripped much of the topsoil, leaving large areas of smooth limestone exposed. The steady slow erosion of this bare limestone by acidic rainwater causes limestone pavements to be formed. While karst pavements are seen on the surface (notably above Zireineralm, Stage U6), most karst features are hidden below ground in a series of sinkholes and cave systems. Zireinersee lake (Stages 7 and U6) is a karst lake with no visible outlet, while the Hundsalm Eishohle cave (Stage 4) is part of a karst cave system.

Glacial cirque below Birkkarspitze (Stage 11)

Walking the Adlerweg, you will encounter a few morainic lakes, some trapped by terminal moraines and some by lateral. The most notable is Achensee, the unique geography of which is described in Stage 8, while the descent from Fern pass (Stage 17) provides excellent views of a series of turquoise coloured lakes, each trapped by its own moraine. Lateral lakes line the Inn valley between Kramsach and Worgl. Dried up lakebeds far exceed actual lakes, the most obvious being the Moos (between Ehrwald and Lermoos, Stage 17) and the Hinterautal valley (Stage 11). Extensive beaches of glacial fluor (white limestone sand eroded by the glaciers) indicate the locations of the ancient lakes.

This is an ever changing landscape. Frequent landsides and washouts either block or widen rivers. Attempts are made each year to restore paths after winter damage, but when deterioration becomes irreparable, paths may be closed or diverted.

Plants

The overwhelming determinant of plantlife found along the Adlerweg is altitude, particularly the tree line. This, the altitude beyond which trees cannot survive, is found around 1800m on north facing slopes, but can reach nearly 2000m at favoured south facing locations. At lower altitudes, up to approx 1400m, mixed forests dominate with broadleaf deciduous trees like beech and oak growing alongside conifers. Woodland flowers and berries, particularly wild raspberries, grow in clearings between the trees. A wide range of edible fungi is in evidence, and local residents can often be found collecting them for the kitchen.

As altitude increases, so mixed forest gives way to coniferous forest with spruce, pine, fir, juniper and larch all in evidence. Of note is zirbe, a fir with candelabra shaped branches, the smooth wood of which is favoured for woodcarving and vernacular furniture. Zirbe grows close to the tree line, particularly on the upper north slopes of Patscherkofel where it gives its name to Zirbenweg (Stage 13). Just below the tree line, full-grown trees give way to dwarf conifers (krummholz), which grow sideways rather than upwards.

Harebell (Campanula)

The high meadow above the tree line is the alpine zone, rich with alpine flowers. Of particular note, and easy to spot are blue harebells (campanula). Slightly rarer are vivid blue trumpet gentians and the pink flowered evergreen shrub, alpenrose. Most renowned, but rarest of all, is the white edelweiss. Above this zone, where lingering snow often covers sparse grass on thin soil and bare rock, you can find bright pink flower cushions of rock jasmine and various lichen and mosses.

Edelweiss (photo: Christine Gordon)

Wildlife

A wide variety of birds, mammals, reptiles and insects are found along the Adlerweg. Many of these, including foxes, red squirrels, hares and roe deer, can be found in Britain, but there are three mammals that particularly epitomise the high alpine environment.

Grassy higher slopes with rocky outcrops are marmot country. These large rodents are instantly recognisable by the piercing ‘wolf-whistle’ warning calls of the adult males. Living as family groups in burrows 3m deep, they eat plant greenery, growing to a maximum weight of 6kg by late September. They hibernate beneath the snows, living off their body fat, until they re-emerge much slimmed down in April. Marmots are found at many places along the route, and sightings are guaranteed.

The second most likely high mountain mammal to be seen is the chamois (gams). These timid, skittish creatures of the antelope family inhabit barely accessible high slopes where they move with amazing sure-footedness. They are often heard before they are seen, as they run across the slopes generating a rocky clatter from falling scree. Fully grown they reach just 75cm in height and have short straightish horns that hook backwards towards the tip. They live in groups of up to thirty individuals, mostly females and juveniles, with older males living a solitary life.

The eponymous zirbe (pine) growing alongside Zirbenweg (Stage 13)

The ibex (steinbock), a herbivorous member of the goat family, is the largest of the three mountain mammals. Males grow to 1m with large backward facing horns, while females are about half this size. Days are spent on rocky slopes above the tree line where they are safe from predators. In late afternoon, they descend to feed on leaves and shrubs in the forest, where they can sometimes be seen standing on their hind legs to reach juicy higher leaves. Ibex were severely depleted by hunting, but numbers are now increasing.

Black alpine choughs (alpendohle) with yellow beaks and red legs are ubiquitous birds, performing aerial acrobatics over the mountaintops. Pairing for life, they nest on rocky cliff ledges at a higher altitude than any other bird species. Seemingly unafraid of humans, they will often try to plunder your lunchtime sandwiches.

The only way to be sure to see a golden eagle (adler) is to visit Innsbruck Alpen zoo (Stage 12), where a rather sad looking captive pair inhabit a large aviary. There are 12 pairs living in Karwendelgebirge, although if you are lucky enough to see one in the wild it is unlikely to be more than a mere dot high in the sky. They are ferocious predators with a wingspan of 2m and powerful talons that can sieze creatures as large as small roe deer.

What to take

Clothing