Читать книгу The Rhine Cycle Route - Mike Wells - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Werdenberg, the smallest town in Switzerland (Stage 4)
The great attraction of following a river from source to sea is that it is downhill all the way (well, almost all the way – our route does occasionally climb a little for spectacular views down into the valley). From the summit of Oberalppass (which can be reached by cycle-friendly train), near the source of the river at Lai da Tuma, the Rhine Cycle Route descends 2046m to the North Sea at Hoek van Holland (Hook of Holland), a distance of 1372km. The cycling is straightforward, with much of the route following well-surfaced cycle tracks, often along the riverbank or flood dykes. On those occasions where roads are used, these are usually quiet country routes with dedicated cycle lanes. All the countries it passes through are highly cycle-friendly, and motorists will generally give you plenty of room. This route is suitable both for experienced long-distance cyclists and those who have done only a little cycle touring and wish to attempt something more adventurous.
The route mostly follows Swiss, German, French and Dutch national cycle trails, with a high standard of waymarking throughout. This guide breaks the route into 27 stages, averaging 51km per stage. A fit cyclist, covering two stages per day, should be able to complete the trip in two weeks. A more leisurely 80km per day would allow for some sightseeing and you would still complete the journey in 17 days. You can break the journey at almost any point as there are many places to stay along the way. These are suitable for all budgets, varying from 40 Hostelling International youth hostels and many backpacker hostels to B&Bs, guesthouses and hotels. If you do not mind the extra weight of camping gear, there are many official campsites.
The Rhine is rightly one of the world’s greatest rivers and one of the most visited by tourists. Many travel by boat, disembarking only at tourist honey-pots and eating international food on-board. By cycling the length of the river you will have a different perspective, passing through smaller towns, meeting local people and eating local food. English is widely spoken, almost universally in Switzerland and the Netherlands.
This is a journey of variety. Passing through six countries (Switzerland, Germany, France and the Netherlands, with short sections in Liechtenstein and Austria) you will be exposed to much of the geography, history, culture and economic success of Western Europe.
From the Rhine’s upper reaches in Switzerland, surrounded by high Alpine mountains, our route passes the tiny principality of Liechtenstein to reach Bodensee (Lake Constance), Western Europe’s second largest natural lake. On the shores of Bodensee are the Austrian festival town of Bregenz, where open-air opera is presented every summer on a stage over the water, and Friedrichshafen, home to the Zeppelin. Beyond the lake is Rheinfall, continental Europe’s largest waterfall by volume of water. Below here the river flows through an attractive wooded valley between the Black Forest and the Jura mountains, passing a series of unspoilt medieval towns. After Basel, the route turns north through French Alsace, an area much fought over, with many remnants of successive wars. Then it is on past the French gastronomic centre of Strasbourg, the great industrial cities of Karlsruhe and Mannheim/Ludwigshafen, and the imperial cities and religious centres of Speyer, Worms and Mainz, before reaching the barrier of the Taunus and Hunsrück mountains. The Rhine Gorge, cutting between these ranges, is the most spectacular stage of all, lined with fairy-tale castles and award-winning vineyards. Halfway through is the infamous Loreley rock. Continuing between the dormant volcanic Eifel and Siebengebirge ranges, where an active geyser demonstrates the power of vulcanism, the Rhine emerges onto the North German plain.
The route continues to Bonn, past the Bundeshaus (where the West German parliament sat 1949–99) and Beethoven’s birthplace, then on to Köln (Cologne), which with over one million inhabitants is the largest city en route and site of the world’s second tallest cathedral spire. Then past Düsseldorf and through industrial Duisburg, which produces half of all German steel and is Europe’s largest inland port. For most of the way through this area, the river is followed, avoiding much of the intensive industrial development. Continuing through wide open flat agricultural land into the Netherlands, the river starts dividing to eventually reach the North Sea by way of five different channels. Our route follows one of these, the Lek, cycling on top of flood dykes with intensively farmed polders (drained land), lower than the river and reclaimed over many centuries, lining the river’s course. At Kinderdijk there are 19 surviving windmills of the type used to drain this land. The last great city is Rotterdam, rebuilt hurriedly after destruction in the Second World War and now being rebuilt again with much stunning modern architecture. On the opposite bank, between Rotterdam and the North Sea is Europoort, which was the world’s busiest port until overtaken by Shanghai in 2004.
Impregnable Ehrenbreitstein fortress opposite Koblenz (Stage 17)
Background
Geographically the Rhine has six distinct sections:
Alpenrhein (Alpine Rhine) is the combination of the Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein tributaries that flow rapidly down the north side of the Alps, along deep glacial valleys, into Bodensee.
Hochrhein (Higher Rhine) continues descending through broad wooded gorges providing the border between Switzerland and Baden-Württemberg (Germany) from Bodensee to Basel.
Oberrhein (Upper Rhine) meanders north from Basel across a broad plain, between the Vosges mountains in French Alsace and the German Black Forest, as far as Mainz.
Mittelrhein (Middle Rhine) is a picturesque stretch from Mainz to Bonn, where the river has cut the Rhine Gorge between the Hunsrück/Eifel mountains (west) and the Taunus/Siebengebirge ranges (east).
Niederrhein (Lower Rhine) crosses the North German plain from Bonn to the Dutch border.
Delta Rijn (Rhine Delta) is the Dutch part of the river, which divides into five different arms to reach the North Sea.
However, the Rhine is more than just a river. Flowing through the heart of Western Europe, it has significance far beyond its relatively modest 1232km length. It can be described as four rivers in one. Firstly, it functions as an important national border; secondly it is the source of many of the myths and legends central to European culture; thirdly it is a great commercial artery and location for industry; and fourthly it has a magnetic attraction to tourists and pursuers of leisure activities.
The border Rhine
For two millennia, the river has represented the border between major national entities. The Romans set their northern frontier along the Rhine/Danube axis and established the first towns on the Rhine at Colonia (Köln), Mainz, Strasbourg and Xanten as bases for legions defending their empire against barbarian tribes to the east. By medieval times this demarcation had developed into a border between Germanic speaking nations of the Holy Roman Empire, east of the river, and Francophone ones to the west. From the Middle Ages up to the mid-20th century, continuing power struggles saw frequent territorial claims and border incursions. Further south, Swiss, Austrians and Bavarians competed to control the northern approaches to the Alps, with the Rhine becoming a natural boundary between their interests. In the far north, both the Dutch and Spanish used the river in their struggle for hegemony over the Netherlands.
Blockhouse turret on the Maginot line near Marckolsheim (Stage 10)
As a result, the river is peppered with military hardware from Roman fortifications, through medieval castles, fortified military towns and integrated defensive lines to concrete anti-tank defences, each passing into history as the technological progress of warfare made them redundant. Riverside settlements still show the scars of battle, particularly from the Second World War, where intensive bombing was followed by destructive land warfare. This is particularly evident in relation to the bridges. In the mid-19th century, the Prussian military authorities controlling the Rhineland resisted the construction of railway bridges as a potential danger of invasion. Before and during the First World War German forces constructed a series of mighty bridges to support the war in France, only to destroy them in 1944–45 in an attempt to prevent Allied invasion of Germany.
The legendary Rhine
The oldest tales of the Rhine are derived from the Nibelungenlied, a 13th-century poem by an unknown German author. It centred on the bloodthirsty affairs of court in Worms and featured Siegfried, Brunhilde and a hoard of gold that caused much strife and was eventually buried in the Rhine to prevent further trouble. Siegfried went on to feature in many other legends. Composer Richard Wagner (1813–83) used this tale for the basis of Das Rheingold and subsequent works making up ‘The Ring of the Nibelung’ opera cycle.
Many of the towns, villages and castles along the German part of the river have local legends, some of which are related in the route description. Perhaps the most famous is the song of the Loreley maiden. First appearing in 1801, the story was rewritten by the author Heinrich Heine in 1824 and set to music in 1837.
The Rhine provided the inspiration for two great patriotic songs. La Marseillaise, the French national anthem, was written in Strasbourg in 1792 as a ‘War song for the Army of the Rhine’ to honour troops defending post-revolutionary France from Prussian and Austrian invasion. On the German side, the poem/song Die Wacht am Rhein (‘The Guard on the Rhine’) was written in 1840 as a call to arms following French political moves to extend French territory. During the Franco-Prussian war (1870–71) it became an unofficial German anthem and remained popular until the Second World War, although it is rarely heard nowadays.
The commercial Rhine
Although used from Roman times as a freight transport route, medieval use of the river was limited by rapids, shallows and local tolls collected at over 200 toll stations. These toll stations were swept away by the Congress of Vienna in 1815, while a series of river improvements throughout the 19th and 20th centuries have removed barriers to navigation on the Mittelrhein and canalised much of the Oberrhein. Steam navigation commenced in 1840 as far as Mannheim, but it was nearly 100 years before improvements allowed commercial operations to reach Basel. Today, thousands of boats and barges carry approximately 250 million tonnes of merchandise annually, including coal, oil, ore, chemicals, building materials and manufactured goods. Major flows are from the huge ports of Rotterdam and Europoort to Duisburg, Köln, Mannheim, Karlsruhe, Strasbourg and Basel. Canals linking the Rhine with the neighbouring river catchments of the Elbe, Danube, Marne and Rhône enable trans-European waterway transport. All along the Rhine, large black-on-white number boards show kilometre distance from Konstanz bridge where the river leaves Bodensee.
Ease of transportation has encouraged industrial development all along the navigable river. Most noticeable is the chemical industry, with 20 per cent of the world’s chemicals produced at a number of huge integrated chemical works, including BASF at Ludwigshafen, the world’s largest single company chemical plant.
The leisure Rhine
Petite France in Strasbourg (Stage 10)
Millions of tourists visit the Rhine every year. Many come by road to see great tourist sights such as Köln, the Rhine Gorge, Rüdesheim, Speyer, Strasbourg and the Rheinfall. Others come to cycle round, sail on, swim in or just laze beside Bodensee, southern Germany’s principal resort area.
Rhine cruising in large all-inclusive boats is big business and many companies operate in this area. Cruises typically follow seven-day itineraries between Amsterdam and Basel (or back), stopping at principal cities along the way. At popular locations such as Rüdesheim, up to 10 boats may call every day. Short-trip and day excursion boats operate on a few stretches, particularly between Köln and Mainz, Schaffhausen and Konstanz and on Bodensee.
Leisure activities are numerous. Almost every town has a public swimming pool, often beside the river. White-water rafting is possible through Ruinaulta (Stage 2), while Huningue (Stage 9) has a canoe slalom course. Rowing and sailing clubs abound.
Cycling is one of the most popular leisure activities in all the countries of the Rhine, particularly in places such as Bodensee, the Rhine Gorge and Kinderdijk, where cyclists of all ages and degrees of fitness can be seen. Cycling as a family holiday is popular in Germany.
The route
For much of its 1232km length it is possible to cycle along either bank of the Rhine. In preparing this book, the author followed both banks and explored some alternative routes away from the river. While the route described mostly follows the left (southern or western) bank, various deviations are made to attractive locations on the right bank. The total distance cycled by the route described is 1372km. For a breakdown of the stages, see Appendix A.
Where possible, rural or parkland routes are preferred to urban ones. Although several large cities are traversed, few require significant lengths of urban street cycling. In three cities, dedicated cycle tracks along canal banks (Strasbourg), linear city parks (Karlsruhe) or through urban woodland (Mannheim) take the route into the heart of the city without encountering traffic. In eight others (Bregenz, Konstanz, Schaffhausen, Mainz, Koblenz, Bonn, Köln and Düsseldorf), the route sticks to the river as it passes close by the city centres.
Between cities, traffic-free routes are preferred over road ones, surfaced tracks over dirt ones, scenic tracks over dull ones and tracks that stay true to the river over those cutting off significant chunks for the sake of it. Deviations are made to visit places of significant interest, such as ‘Heidiland’ (Stage 3), the north side of Bodensee (Stage 5), Waldshut (Stage 7) and Bad Säckingen (Stage 8), Neuf-Brisach (Stage 9), Karlsruhe (Stage 12), the Rheingau (Stage 16), Oosterbeek (Stage 24) and Kinderdijk (Stage 26).
Switzerland
From Oberalppass to the Bodensee Rhein Delta, the Swiss national cycle route Radweg 2 (R2) is closely followed through Ilanz and Chur. R2 passes Vaduz in Liechtenstein on the opposite side of the river, but the route in this guide crosses over to visit Europe’s third-smallest country. R2 is left for a long deviation following Bodensee Radweg around the northern side of Bodensee, visiting Friedrichshafen, home of the Zeppelin, and the medieval cities of Lindau and Meersburg. Between Bodensee and Basel, where the Rhine mostly provides the border between Switzerland and Germany, R2 is followed through quaint Stein am Rhein, the German enclave of Büsingen, Schaffhausen, and the spectacular Rheinfall. We briefly leave R2, crossing into Germany to visit Waldshut and Bad Säckingen. Regaining the Swiss bank through Rheinfelden and Roman Augusta Raurica, R2 ends in Basel.
Meersburg harbour with Neues Schloss on the hill above (Stage 5)
France
From Basel to Strasbourg (France) and its sister town of Kehl (Germany) there are three alternative routes. This guide follows the French Vèloroute Rhin (VR, but now re-waymarked as EV15), leaving the river to follow canal towpaths, forest trails and a disused railway line through Alsace, passing Neuf-Brisach en route to Strasbourg. There is another waymarked route (D8) closely following the German (right) bank through Breisach to Kehl. This is shorter, but is a dusty, bumpy unsurfaced track for most of its length and is not recommended. The third alternative is to follow quiet former military roads along the French bank of the Rhine.
Germany
After Strasbourg, the route continues following EV15, now along the riverbank, through the French/German border area before crossing the river to visit the model fan-shaped city of Karlsruhe. EV15 continues along the left bank through Wörth, but major works are going on in this area to create flood relief polders and deviations take the track away from the river. Returning to the left bank after Karlsruhe, the route passes through the cathedral city of Speyer, then crosses over briefly to visit Mannheim (and miss the duller part of Ludwigshafen). Then it is back on the left bank through Worms and Nierstein to Mainz, the most attractive ‘big city’ on the Rhine. For most of the stretch between Karlsruhe and Mainz through Mannheim it is possible to follow D8 along the right bank, but while this is a quiet route along surfaced tracks, it is far less interesting than the preferred left bank route.
The river is crossed at Mainz for a short ride through the Rheingau to Rüdesheim. From Bingen, the route stays on the left bank through the Rhine Gorge, passing romantic castles and the Loreley rock opposite. The route continues north, crossing the Mosel at Koblenz then past the Eifel mountains through Andernach and Remagen to reach Bonn. Here there is a major change in the landscape as the mountains are left behind for the plains of Nordrhein-Westfalen. From Bonn, through Köln and Düsseldorf to Duisburg you pass through the industrial heart of Germany. However, apart from the approach to Duisburg past a series of steelworks, the stretches between cities are surprisingly rural. Beyond Köln, we cross the river to visit attractive Düsseldorf and industrial Duisburg. The final stretch in Germany crosses wide open agricultural plains following a series of flood dykes on the left bank with occasional glimpses of the river as it meanders widely towards the Dutch border at Millingen.
The Netherlands
After reaching the Netherlands, the Rhine divides into different channels to reach the sea. The route described in this guide crosses the Waal, then follows the Neder Rijn past Arnhem and below the wooded sandy ridge of Utrechtse Heuvelrug national park. After Amerongen the route is along the top of Lekdijk, the main flood dyke of the river Lek, with the surrounding land below sea level. The Lek is followed through Wijk bij Duurstede and Schoonhoven to reach Rotterdam, Holland’s second city. It then follows the Nieuwe Mass river past the huge industrial complex of Europoort to end at the North Sea ferry port of Hoek van Holland, near the river mouth.
The cycle track past the Kinderdijk windmills is very popular (Stage 26)
Natural environment
Physical geography
Two major geomorphic events shaped the Rhine basin. The Alps were formed approximately 30 million years ago, pushed up by the collision of the African and European tectonic plates. This caused rippling of the landmass to the north, creating successive ridges that form the limestone Jura (northern Switzerland) and combined Vosges (France)/Black Forest (Germany). Further north, pre-existing harder slate mountains (Hunsrück and Taunus) and volcanic remnants (Eifel, Siebengebirge and Westerwald) were raised further. The Rhine, flowing north from the Alps, was forced west by the barrier of the Black Forest, then turned north, cutting a wide valley between Vosges and the Black Forest (from modern-day Basel to Karlsruhe). Flowing slowly across the basin between the ridges (Karlsruhe to Mainz), the river deposited much of its sediment, creating an extensive flood plain. Upon reaching the Taunus, it turned west then north again, cutting a narrow gorge through the older, harder rocks between Taunus and Hunsrück (forming the Rhine Gorge from Bingen to Koblenz). Emerging from the mountains, the Rhine flows out onto the North German plain.
The second event was a period of repeated glaciation known as the ice ages, ending around 14,000 years ago. This had three effects upon the Rhine basin. In the Alps great glaciers formed, cutting deep, straight valleys from Oberalp to Chur and below Chur to Bodensee, where a lake formed at the end of the glacier. Further north, ice sheets covered the North German plain, which when they retreated left a flat landscape covered with glacial and wind-blown loess (sedimentary) deposits. Furthermore, when the ice sheets melted, the sea rose, leaving the western end of the plain (modern-day Netherlands) below sea level.
Wildlife
While several small mammals (including rabbits, hares, red squirrels, voles, water rats and weasels) may be seen scuttling across the track and deer may be glimpsed in forests, this is not a route for observing animals. However, there is a wide range of interesting birdlife. White swans, geese and many varieties of ducks inhabit the river and its banks. Cruising above, raptors, particularly buzzards and kites, are frequently seen hunting small mammals. Birds that live by fishing include cormorants, noticeable when perched on rocks with their wings spread out to dry and grey herons. Common all along the Rhine, and particularly numerous in the Netherlands, herons can be seen standing in shallow water waiting to strike or stalking purposefully along the banks.
Storks’ nest in Willige Langerak (Stage 25)
Perhaps the most noticeable birds are white storks. These huge birds, with wingspan of two metres, nest in trees or on man-made platforms. They feed on small mammals and reptiles, which they catch in water meadows or on short grassland. Populations along the Rhine dropped to unsustainable levels by the 1980s, but conservation programmes in France, Germany and the Netherlands have led to significant growth in numbers and white storks are no longer regarded as a threatened species.
Preparation
When to go
Apart from the higher parts of Stage 1, where snow often lingers on the ground until May and fresh snow can fall at any time, the route is generally cyclable from April to October. Indeed, much of the route can be cycled at any time of year. The river is at its highest in winter, after heavy snowfalls, when snow melt coming down from the Alps can cause localised flooding of the route in a few places where it drops down below the flood dyke.
During July and August (the school holiday season) some of the more touristic stages can become very busy, particularly stages 5 and 6 around Bodensee and stages 16 and 17 through the Rhine Gorge. Although these stages have many places to stay, it is sometimes difficult to find accommodation, especially at weekends.
How long will it take?
The route has been broken into 27 stages averaging 51km per stage. Cycling 100km per day would enable you to complete the route in two weeks. Allowing time for sightseeing and averaging 80km per day would stretch this time to 17 days. At a leisurely pace of one stage (50km) per day, it would take four weeks to complete the ride. On most stages, there are many places to stay and it is easy to tailor daily distances to your requirements.
What kind of cycle is suitable?
While most of the route is on surfaced cycle tracks or roads (usually asphalt, but some concrete and in northern Germany and the Netherlands long stretches of brick-block), there are some stretches of all-weather dirt, cinder or gravel track. As a result, this is not a route for narrow-tyred racing cycles. The ideal cycle is a hybrid (a lightweight but strong cross between a touring cycle and a mountain bike with at least 21 gears), although apart from Disentis/Mustér to Ilanz (Stage 1) a touring cycle would be quite suitable (an alternative route along local roads can be used between Disentis/Mustér and Ilanz to avoid the rough gravel tracks). Front suspension is beneficial as it absorbs much of the vibration. Straight handlebars, with bar-ends enabling you to vary your position regularly, are recommended. Make sure your cycle is serviced and lubricated before you start, particularly the brakes, gears and chain.
As important as the cycle is your choice of tyres. Slick road tyres are not suitable and knobbly mountain bike tyres not necessary. What you need is something in-between with good tread and a slightly wider profile than you would use for everyday cycling at home. To reduce the chance of punctures, choose tyres with puncture resistant armouring, such as a Kevlar™ band.
Bad Säckingen has the longest covered bridge over the Rhine (Stage 8)
Getting there and back
By rail
The start of the route at Oberalppass station is served by hourly MGB narrow gauge trains between Andermatt and Disentis/Mustér. The most convenient approach is via Andermatt, which can be reached by hourly SBB (Swiss Railways) services from Basel or Zürich, changing at Göschenen. Most trains on these routes (except CIS) have cycle space. Swiss trains do not require seat reservations, although cycle reservation is mandatory (for a fee of CHF5) on ICN intercity trains which operate about 50 per cent of the services between Basel or Zürich and Milan via Göschenen. In Switzerland a ticket is required for your cycle. This costs CHF18 (or the same price as a passenger ticket if this is lower) and covers all journeys within a day. Tickets can be purchased and reservations made at www.sbb.ch.
If travelling from the UK, you can take your cycle on Eurostar from London St Pancras (not Ebbsfleet nor Ashford) to Paris (Gare du Nord) or Brussels (Midi). Trains between London and Paris run approximately hourly throughout the day, taking under two and a half hours. Cycles booked in advance travel in dedicated cycle spaces in the baggage compartment of the same train as you. Bookings, which open six months in advance and cost £30 single, can be made through Eurostar baggage (tel 0844 822 5822). Cycles must be checked in at St Pancras Eurostar luggage office (beside the bus drop-off point at the back of the station) at least one hour before departure. There are two dedicated places per train for fully assembled cycles and four more places for dis-assembled cycles packed in a special fibre-glass box. These boxes are provided by Eurostar at the despatch counter, along with tools and packing advice. Leave yourself plenty of time to dismantle and pack your bike. In Paris, cycles can be collected from the Geoparts luggage office at Gare du Nord by following a path L of platform 3. More information can be found at www.eurostar.com.
GARE DU NORD TO GARE DE LYON
After arriving in Paris you need to cycle from the Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon following a series of grands boulevards (wide avenues) on an almost straight 4km route. Go ahead opposite the main entrance to Gare du Nord along semi-pedestrianised Bvd de Denain. At the end turn left (Bvd de Magenta) and follow this to reach Place de la République. Continue round this square and leave on the opposite side by Bvd du Temple, becoming Bvd des Filles du Calvaire then Bvd Beaumarchais, to reach Place de la Bastille. Bear L (past memorial column to 1830 revolution) and R (passing Opera Bastille L) into Rue de Lyon to reach Gare de Lyon station.
Franco-Swiss TGV Lyria high-speed trains operate every two hours between Paris (Gare de Lyon) and Basel (three hours), with some continuing to Zürich (four hours). These have four cycle spaces per train with mandatory reservation (€10). Details can be found and bookings made on SNCF (French Railways) website www.voyages-sncf.com.
Loading a cycle onto a Swiss train
From northern England, an alternative is to use Stena Line ferries to reach Hoek van Holland from Harwich or P&O to Rotterdam (Europoort) from Hull, then Dutch NS trains to Rotterdam. Here you can connect via Venlo and Düsseldorf with DB (German Railways) services, with cycle provision, that will take you on to Basel. To book German trains go to www.bahn.com. Provision of cycle space on European trains changes frequently and up-to-date advice on travelling by train with a bicycle can be found on a website dedicated to worldwide rail travel ‘The man in seat 61’ (www.seat61.com)
By air
Airports at Zürich (two hours 30 minutes by train to Andermatt), Basel (three hours but you need to cycle from the airport to Basel station), Milan Malpensa (four hours 30 minutes) and Geneva (five hours), all served by a variety of international airlines, can be used to reach the start point. Airlines have different requirements regarding how cycles are presented and some, but not all, make a charge – which you should pay when booking as it is usually higher if you pay at the airport. All airlines require tyres to be partially deflated, handlebars turned and pedals removed (loosen pedals beforehand to make them easier to remove at the airport). Most will accept your cycle in a transparent polythene bike-bag, but some insist on use of a cardboard bike-box. Excess Baggage Company counters in all terminals at Heathrow and Gatwick sell bike boxes (www.left-baggage.co.uk). Away from the airports, boxes can be obtained from cycle shops, sometimes for free, although you do have the problem of how to transport the box to the airport.
By road
If you are lucky to have someone willing to drop you off at the start, it is between 850km and 950km (depending upon the route taken) from Calais to Oberalppass which is on Swiss Route 19 between Andermatt and Chur. With your own vehicle, the most convenient place to leave it is Basel, from where trains can be used to reach Oberalppass on the outward journey and which can be reached by train from Rotterdam on the return. Basel is between 675km and 850m from the Channel ports.
European Bike Express operates a coach service from northern England, picking up en-route across England to the Mediterranean. Cycles travel in a dedicated cycle trailer and handlebars need turning, but otherwise cycles remain intact. There are drop-off points in eastern France at Nancy, where you can catch a train to Basel, or Mâcon for trains to Geneva. Details and bookings are available at www.bike-express.co.uk.
Intermediate access
There are international airports at Friedrichshafen (Stage 5), Basel/Mulhouse/Freiburg (Stage 9), Strasbourg (Stage 10), Karlsruhe/Baden (Stage 12), Köln/Bonn (Stage 19) and Düsseldorf (Stage 21). Zürich airport is 14km from Teufen (Stage 7) and Frankfurt airport 24km from Mainz (Stage 16) (note: Frankfurt Hahn airport is in the Hunsrück mountains 50km west of Bacharach and is not close to the route). Düsseldorf Weeze is 18km from Kalkar (Stage 23). Amsterdam Schiphol airport can be reached by train from Arnhem or Rhenen.
Much of the route through Switzerland and Germany is closely followed by railway lines. In France between Basel and Strasbourg the railway is some distance from the route, while in the Netherlands there are no lines following the river and stations are only encountered at Arnhem, Rhenen and between Rotterdam and Hoek van Holland. Stations close to the route are listed in the text.
Onward travel from Hoek van Holland
Trains from Hoek van Holland run to Rotterdam, where frequent connections serve Amsterdam Schiphol, a major international airport with flights to worldwide destinations.
Stena Line runs two ferries daily from Hoek van Holland to Harwich in the UK, in the afternoon and overnight (www.stenaline.co.uk). On overnight sailings, passengers must reserve cabins. From Harwich, trains with cycle provision run to London (Liverpool Street) and to Cambridge, where connections are available to the rest of the UK. P&O ferries sail nightly from Rotterdam (Europoort) to Hull (www.poferries.com). The route to the P&O terminal is described in Stage 27.
Navigation
Waymarking and signposting
Waymarks on EV15 (clockwise from top right): Swiss R2 and Bodensee radweg sign; Dutch Landelijkefiets sign; French EV15 sign; German Rheinradweg sign; German D8 sign
The route described in this guide is made up from various national waymarked cycle routes that have been adopted by the ECF (European Cyclists’ Federation) as EuroVélo route 15 (EV15), plus some locally signposted stretches to link these together. A programme is in place to incorporate the EV15 logo into national signs and this is more or less complete in Switzerland, France and the Netherlands. In a few places, the route varies from that waymarked where the author believes an alternative route is preferable. In the introduction to each stage an indication is given of the predominant waymarks encountered.
| Summary of national cycle routes followed | ||
| EV15 | EuroVèlo 15 | throughout |
| R2 | Radweg 2 (Rhein route) | Switzerland |
| BR | Bodensee Radweg | Switzerland/Austria/Germany |
| D8 | Deutsche Radweg 8 | Germany |
| VR | Vèloroute Rhin | France (mostly replaced with EV15) |
| RR | Rhein Radweg | Germany |
| LF+number | Landelijkefiets | Netherlands |
In Switzerland, waymarking is excellent and ubiquitous with a well-developed national system integrating cycle routes, mountain bike trails and footpaths. The letter R for radweg (cycle way) and colour maroon indicate cycle routes. Full details and maps of all Swiss waymarked routes can be found at www.schweizmobil.ch. Judith and Neil Forsyth’s Cycle Touring in Switzerland (Cicerone Press) describes the nine national routes R1 to R9. In Switzerland, this guide closely follows R2 ‘Rhein route’ from Oberalppass to Basel (stages 1–4 and 6–8) except for some deviations to visit places of interest across the river. This is waymarked R2 and EV15 throughout.
In Germany, local waymarking is excellent but national waymarking variable. This is influenced by Germany’s federal structure of semi-independent lände (states), each of which has its own system. A national cycle network is in existence, although this often plays second fiddle to regional and local routes, with some signposts carrying the badges of many different routes. National route D8 follows the Rhine, mostly on the eastern (right) bank, and on some stages this is followed. The Rhein Radweg (RR) is waymarked using the Rheinradler symbol, a stylised yellow cyclist on a blue background with the wheels formed from the yellow stars of the European flag. In most lände, generic cycle route signposts have a white background, but the text colour varies (green in Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, Rheinland-Pfalz and Hessen; red in Nordrhein-Westfalen).
French waymarking originally also used the Rheinradler to identify the Véloroute Rhin (VR), but almost all Rheinradler signposts have been replaced with EV15 waymarks.
Unsurprisingly, the Netherlands, a country with more cycles than people, has an excellent waymarked national cycle network known as Landelijkefiets routes (LF). Full details can be found at www.nederlandfietsland.nl. This guide uses parts of LF3 (Millingen to Arnhem, Stage 23), LF4 (Arnhem to Amerongen, Stage 24), LF11 (Ablasserdam to Rotterdam, Stage 26) and LF12 (Rotterdam to Hoek van Holland, Stage 27). Signposts include a or b after the route number to indicate direction. Where this guide does not use LF routes (Amerongen to Ablasserdam, stages 24–26), local signposting is excellent. In addition, there is a system of numbered knooppunten (nodal waypoints) with local maps on location boards throughout the country.
German cycle route sign with eight different routes shown
Maps
The only stand-alone maps of the whole route from source to Rotterdam plus Bodensee Radweg are published by Publicpress (www.publicpress.de), who produce a series of five laminated folding strip maps: 199, 302, 368, 333 and 569.
For Switzerland, including the part of the route across the river in Germany and the northern side of Bodensee, detailed maps of R2, at any scale you wish, can be downloaded from www.veloland.ch.
For France, Esterbauer Bikeline publish two sheets at 1:75,000 (Radkarte Elsass Süd and Elsass Nord) covering the route from Basel to north of Karlsruhe.
For Germany, Bikeline publish a map at 1:75,000 covering Bodensee, one covering Konstanz to Basel, three maps covering the stretch from Karlsruhe to Koblenz and one covering Düsseldorf to Millingen: sheets BW08, BW13, BW03, RPF06, HES4 and NRW3. Publicpress publish six sheets at 1:100,000 covering the route from Karlsruhe to Millingen: sheets 168, 120, 576, 157, 228 and 166. Bikeline maps contain more detail and are more accurate.
For the Netherlands both ANWB (Dutch automobile association) and Falk/VVV (Dutch tourist office) publish a series of 1:50,000 fietskaarten (cycle maps) covering the whole country. The route between Millingen and Hoek van Holland is covered by ANWB sheets 10, 15 and 14, with a very short section on sheet 11; or Falk/VVV sheets 11 and 15. Both sets of maps provide good coverage. The ANWB maps are the most recommended.
Most of these maps as well as the guidebooks below are available from leading bookshops including Stanfords in London (www.stanfords.co.uk) and the Map Shop, Upton upon Severn (www.themapshop.co.uk). Relevant maps are widely available en route. See Appendix E for more contact information.
Other guidebooks
Bikeline publish a three-volume series of Radtourenbücher und Karte (cycle tour guidebooks with maps) in German covering the route from the source to Rotterdam but excluding the route around Bodensee’s northern shore (Stage 5), that through Karlsruhe (stages 12 and 13) and the long section across the Netherlands from Amerongen to Ablasserdam (stages 24–26). These include strip maps at 1:75,000 with volume 1 covering Andermatt to Basel, volume 2 Basel to Mainz and volume 3 Mainz to Rotterdam. A separate book describes the Bodensee Radweg. (www.esterbauer.com)
Although neither a map nor guidebook, a topographic strip map of the Rhine from Bodensee to Rotterdam produced by Rahmelverlag (www.rahmel-verlag.de) gives a good overall impression of the route and makes an attractive souvenir. It is published in several languages, including English, and is sold in gift shops along the route, particularly in Rüdesheim and Boppard.
Accommodation
Hotels, inns, guest houses and bed & breakfast
For most of the route there is a wide variety of accommodation. Hotels vary from expensive five-star properties to modest local establishments. Hotels and inns usually offer a full meal service, guest houses do sometimes. B&Bs, which in Germany and Switzerland can be recognised by a sign zimmer frei (rooms available), generally offer only breakfast. Tourist information offices will normally telephone for you and make local reservations. After hours, many tourist offices display a sign outside showing local establishments with vacancies. Booking ahead is seldom necessary, except on popular stages in high season, but it is advisable to start looking for accommodation soon after 1600. Most properties are cycle-friendly and will find you a secure overnight place for your pride and joy.
Prices vary between countries, with Switzerland the most expensive. On stages following the Swiss–German border, it is cheaper to cross to the German side of the river for overnight accommodation. Compared with equivalent accommodation in the UK, Swiss and Dutch rooms are more expensive, Austrian, French and German rooms are around the same. One unusual way of overnighting in Switzerland is schlafen im stroh (sleeping in the hay), where you stay in a haybarn, often on a remote farm. To use this facility you need a sleeping bag and torch. It is strictly no smoking of course!
Hay barn in Switzerland used for ‘schlaf im stroh’ (Stage 2)
Bett+Bike
This is a German scheme run by ADFC (German cycling club), which has registered over 5000 establishments providing cycle-friendly accommodation. It includes a wide variety of properties, from major hotels to local B&Bs, listed by state in an annually updated guidebook. Participating establishments display a Bett+Bike sign. For more information visit www.bettundbike.de.
Youth hostels and backpackers
Rüdesheim youth hostel sits among the vineyards of Rheingau (Stage 16)
There are 40 official youth hostels (YH), many in historic buildings, on or near the route (six are in Switzerland, one in Liechtenstein, one in Austria, 29 in Germany, one in France and two in the Netherlands). These are listed in Appendix D. To use a German youth hostel you need to be a member of an association affiliated to Hostelling International. If you are not a member you will be required to join the local association. Rules vary from country to country but generally hostels accept guests of any age, although visitors over 27 may face a small surcharge (€3 in Germany). Rooms vary from single-sex dormitories to family rooms of two to six beds. Unlike British hostels, most continental European hostels do not have self-catering facilities but do provide good-value hot meals. Hostels get very busy, particularly during school holidays, and booking is advised through www.hihostels.com.
In Switzerland there is an independent backpacker hostel in Chur. In Germany, France and the Netherlands major cities have backpacker hostels.
Camping
If you are prepared to carry camping equipment, this is the cheapest way of cycling the Rhine. However, good-quality campsites with all facilities are often only a little cheaper than hostels. The stage descriptions identify many official campsites but the list is by no means exhaustive. Camping may be possible in other locations with the permission of local landowners.
Food and drink
Where to eat
There are thousands of places where cyclists can eat and drink, ranging from snack bars, hotdog stands and local inns to Michelin-starred restaurants. Locations of many places to eat are listed in stage descriptions, but these are by no means exhaustive. Days and times of opening vary. When planning your day, try to be flexible as a number of inns and small restaurants, particularly in German villages, do not open at lunchtime and may have one day a week as a rest day (ruhetag) when they remain closed. A local inn offering food and drink is typically known as a gaststätte in German-speaking countries and an auberge in France. A wienstube in Germany is a winebar, often attached to a vineyard. English-language menus are widely available in Switzerland and the Netherlands, but are less common in Germany and France except in larger towns and cities.
When to eat
Breakfast usually consists of breads, jam and a hot drink with, in Germanic areas, the addition of cold meats and cheese and often a boiled egg. In Switzerland, the breakfast dish birchermuesli, made from rolled oats, nuts and dried fruit, is the forerunner of commercially produced muesli.
In Germany lunch was traditionally the main meal of the day, but this is slowly changing, and is unlikely to prove suitable if you plan an afternoon in the saddle. The most common lunchtime snacks everywhere are soups, and ham or cheese sandwiches. In Germany würst mit senf und brot (sausages with mustard and bread) and würstsalat (thin strips of slicing sausage served with sauerkraut (pickled cabbage)) are popular; while croque monsieur (toasted ham/cheese sandwich) and quiche Lorraine are widely available in France.
For dinner, a wide variety of cuisine is available, including Italian, Greek, Turkish and Chinese. Much of what is available is pan-European and will be easily recognisable. There are, however, some national and regional dishes you may wish try.
What to eat
In Switzerland rösti is finely grated potato, fried and often served with bacon and cheese, while geschnetzeltes are thin slices of veal in a cream and mushroom sauce usually served with noodles or rösti. Zander (fresh water pike-perch) is the most commonly found fish in Switzerland. Cheese is popular and is used in fondue (melted cheese used as dipping sauce) and raclette (grilled slices of cheese drizzled over potatoes and gherkins). Switzerland is rightly famous for chocolate.
Germany is the land of the schwein (pig) and dishes of pork, gammon, bacon and ham dominate German menus. Traditionally pork was pot-roasted or grilled rather than fried. There are over 1500 types of German würst (sausage), the most common being bratwürst (made from minced pork and served grilled or fried), Wienerwürst (smoked sausages served boiled, known as frankfurters in English) and blutwürst (blood sausage). Sauerbraten is marinated roast beef, while fleischkaese and leberkaese are kinds of meat loaf. Forelle (trout) and lachs (salmon) are the most popular fish. The most common vegetable accompaniments are sauerkraut and boiled potatoes. Reibekuchen are potato pancakes, served with apple sauce. Spargel (white asparagus) is consumed in huge quantities during Spargelzeit between mid-April and 24 June. Germans tend to eat cakes mid-morning or mid-afternoon. The most famous German cake is Schwarzwalder kirschtorte (Black Forest gateau), a chocolate and cherry cake.
In France, the route is entirely in Alsace, which has a cuisine markedly different to France as a whole, showing strong Germanic influence. Pork is the dominant meat and the most famous Alsatian dish is choucroute garnie, a dish of various cuts of pork meat and sausages served with sauerkraut heated in white wine. A typical snack is tarte flambée or flammekueche, a thin pizza-style base covered with white cheese, onions and bacon and cooked in a wood oven.
Tarte flambée, a speciality of Alsace, served with Gewurztraminer white wine (Stage 10)
Although the variety of dishes offered in Dutch restaurants is generally wider than in Germany, cooking is usually pan-European and traditional Dutch cooking is fairly hard to find. The Dutch eat a lot of fish, including maatjes (raw marinated herring), kibbeling (deep-fried cod nuggets) and mosselen (mussels), the latter two often served with patats (chips/French fries) and mayonnaise. The Netherlands is a country of dairy farming and produces a large amount of cheese, the best known varieties being Edam (red, round like a ball) and Gouda (yellow, round like a wheel). Dutch apple cake is a popular dessert.
Drinks
Switzerland, Austria and Germany are predominantly beer-drinking nations, but also produce considerable quantities of wine, while France is a wine-drinking nation where consumption of beer is increasing. The Netherlands produces beer, but no wine.
Switzerland’s largest brewery is Feldschlossen, which is passed at Rheinfelden (Stage 8). In Germany, purity laws controlling the production and content of beer have limited the mass consolidation of brewing compared to other European countries, and beer is still brewed in a large number of local breweries. Pilsener, a pale lager, is the most widely drunk form, although weizenbier (wheat beer), found in both helles (pale) and dunkles (dark) varieties, is growing in popularity. Very refreshing and slightly sweet tasting, wheat beer is unfiltered and thus naturally cloudy. Distinct local beers are produced in Köln (kölsch) and Düsseldorf (alt). Glass sizes vary, but common sizes are kleines (small, 300ml) and grosses (large, half litre). Weizenbier is traditionally served in half litre vase-shaped glasses. Radler in Germany is shandy, a 50/50 mix of beer and carbonated lemonade. With a long history of German influence, Alsace is the main beer-producing region of France, with Kronenbourg the largest brewery. The Netherlands has a number or breweries, but is dominated by the Heineken and Amstel lager brands.
Swiss wine is one of the wine-drinking world’s great secrets. Substantial quantities of good-quality wine are produced but 98 per cent of this is consumed within the country. Most production is in the Vaud and Valais cantons in the west of the country, although on our route there are vineyards in the Maienfeld hills (Stage 3) and between Schaffhausen and Waldshut (Stage 7). Principal grape varieties are chasselas (white) used for Fendant wine, and pinot noir or blauburgunder (red) used for Dôle wine. German wine production is usually characterised by white wine from the Rhine Valley between Worms and Koblenz, including the side valleys of Nahe and Mosel. The finest German wine comes from the Rheingau, a south-facing ridge between Eltville and Rüdesheim (Stage 16). Reisling grapes are used for the best wines with müller-thurgau for the less distinguished ones. Trochen (dry) and halb-trochen (medium) varieties are available. Other wine-growing regions passed include the north side of Bodensee around Meersburg (Stage 5), which produces white and rosé wines, and the Ahr Valley (Stage 18), producing some of the world’s most northerly red wines. In France, the east-facing Vosges slopes looking across the Rhine Valley from above Colmar produce strong full-bodied Alsatian white wine from gewürztraminer grapes.
All the usual soft drinks (colas, lemonade, fruit juices) are widely available. Local specialities include Rivella, a Swiss drink sweetened with lactose (milk sugars), available in a number of varieties. Apple juice mixed 50/50 with carbonated water and known as apfelschorle is widely consumed. Apfelwein and most are cider-like alcoholic drinks produced from apples, particularly around Bodensee.
Amenities and services
St Goarshausen seen from Loreley rock (Stage 17)
Grocery shops and pharmacies
All cities, towns and larger villages passed through have grocery stores, often supermarkets, and most have pharmacies. Germany has strict laws restricting weekend opening with grocers closing at 1300 on Saturdays and remaining closed all day Sunday. In France they may be closed from 1300 to 1600 daily.
Cycle shops
The route is well provided with cycle shops, most with repair facilities. Locations are listed in the stage descriptions, although this is not exhaustive. In Switzerland, a list of cycle shops can be found at www.veloland.ch. Many cycle shops will adjust brakes and gears, or lubricate your chain, while you wait, often not seeking reimbursement for minor repairs. Touring cyclists should not abuse this generosity and always offer to pay, even if payment is refused.
Currency and banks
Austria, Germany, France and the Netherlands switched from national currencies to the Euro (€) in 2002. Switzerland and Liechtenstein use Swiss Francs (CHF). Almost every town has a bank and most have ATM machines that enable you to make transactions in English. Travellers from outside the Euro area should contact their banks to confirm activation of bank cards for use in continental Europe. In Switzerland, the best exchange rates are often found at exchange windows in station ticket offices. Travellers cheques are seldom used.
Telephone and internet
The whole route has mobile phone (handy in German) coverage. Contact your network provider to ensure your phone is enabled for foreign use with the optimum price package. To make an international call dial the international access code of the country you are in (00 for the UK) followed by the dialling code for the country you wish to reach:
Switzerland +41
Liechtenstein +423
Austria +43
Germany +49
France +33
Netherlands +31
Almost all hotels, guest houses and hostels make wi-fi available to guests, usually free but sometimes for a small fee.
Electricity
Voltage is 220v, 50Hz AC. Plugs are mostly standard European two-pin round, sometimes with a third central earth pin. However, standard two-pin adaptors will work in all countries.
What to take
Clothing and personal items
Although the route is predominantly downhill, weight should be kept to a minimum. You will need clothes for cycling (shoes, socks, shorts or trousers, shirt, fleece, waterproofs) and clothes for evenings and days off. The best maxim is two of each, ‘one to wear, one to wash’. Time of year makes a difference as you need more and warmer clothing in April/May and September/October. All of this clothing should be washable en route, and a small tube or bottle of travel wash is useful. A sun hat and sunglasses are essential, while gloves and a woolly hat are advisable, except in high summer.
In addition to your usual toiletries you will need sun cream and lip salve. You should take a simple first-aid kit. If staying in hostels you will need a towel and torch (your cycle light should suffice).
A fully equipped cycle
Cycle equipment
Everything you take needs to be carried on your cycle. If overnighting in accommodation, a pair of rear panniers should be sufficient to carry all your clothing and equipment, although if camping, you may also need front panniers. Panniers should be 100 per cent watertight. If in doubt, pack everything inside a strong polythene lining bag. Rubble bags, obtainable from builders’ merchants, are ideal for this purpose. A bar-bag is a useful way of carrying items you need to access quickly such as maps, sunglasses, camera, spare tubes, puncture kit and tools. A transparent map case attached to the top of your bar-bag is an ideal way of displaying maps and guide book.
Your cycle should be fitted with mudguards and a bell, and be capable of carrying water bottles, pump and lights. Many cyclists fit an odometer to measure distances. A basic tool-kit should consist of puncture repair kit, spanners, Allen keys, adjustable spanner, screwdriver, spoke key and chain repair tool. The only essential spares that need to be carried are two spare tubes. On a long cycle ride, sometimes on dusty tracks, your chain will need regular lubrication and you should either carry a can of spray-lube or make regular visits to cycle shops. A good strong lock is advisable.
Safety and emergencies
Weather
Oberalppass closed by snow in April (Stage 1)
Most of the route is subject to a continental climate typified by warm, dry summers interspersed with short periods of heavy rain, and cold winters. However, the further you progress the greater the influence of Atlantic weather systems, with cooler summers, milder winters and more frequent but lighter periods of precipitation carried by a prevailing westerly wind. The first few stages are exposed to mountain weather with heavy winter snowfall. At lower altitudes this will have melted by April, but on the Oberalppass (Stage 1) snow may remain until May. Fresh snow may fall here at any time of year, although it is unusual in July and August. In the unlikely event that this stage is impassable, a train service connects Oberalppass with Disentis/Mustér, Ilanz and Chur.
Road safety
Throughout the route, cycling is on the right side of the road. Even if you have never cycled on the right before you will quickly adapt, but roundabouts may prove challenging. You are most prone to mistakes when setting off in the morning. In France the general rule is to allow priority to traffic coming from your right, unless otherwise indicated. One-way streets often have signs permitting contra-flow cycling.
Contra-flow cycling allowed in a one-way street
Much of the route is on dedicated cycle paths, although care is necessary as these are sometimes shared with pedestrians. Use your bell, politely, when approaching pedestrians from behind. In the Netherlands, where there are often cycle paths on both sides of the road, you should use the path on the right. If you do otherwise, you will soon generate frantic gesticulations from on-coming cyclists. Where you are required to cycle on the road there is usually a dedicated cycle lane, often in different coloured asphalt.
Many city and town centres have pedestrian-only zones. In Germany such zones are only loosely enforced and you may find locals cycling within them – indeed many zones have signs allowing cycling. In the Netherlands, such restrictions are rigidly followed and you will receive angry looks and comments if you cycle in pedestrianised areas.
In none of the countries passed through is it compulsory to wear a cycle helmet, although their use is recommended. Modern lightweight helmets with improved ventilation have made wearing them more comfortable.
In Switzerland, cycling after drinking alcohol has the same 50mg/100ml limit as drink-driving (the UK drink-driving limit is 80mg/100ml). If you choose to cycle after drinking and are caught you could be fined and banned from cycling, and driving, in Switzerland.
Emergencies
In the unlikely event of an accident, the standardised EU emergency phone number is 112. The entire route has mobile phone coverage. Provided you have a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) issued by your home country, medical costs for EU citizens are covered under reciprocal health insurance agreements, although you may have to pay for an ambulance and claim the cost back through insurance. Although not EU countries, Switzerland and Liechtenstein are incorporated within these arrangements.
Theft
In general, the route is safe and the risk of theft very low. However, you should always lock your cycle and watch your belongings, especially in cities.
Insurance
Travel insurance policies usually cover you when cycle touring but they do not normally cover damage to, or theft of, your bicycle. If you have a household contents policy, this may cover cycle theft, but limits may be less than the real cost of your cycle. The Cycle Touring Club (CTC) offer a policy tailored for your needs when cycle touring (www.ctc.org.uk)
If you live in Switzerland and own a bicycle, you need to purchase an annual velo vignette, a registration sticker that includes compulsory third-party insurance. However this is not a requirement for short-term visitors.
About this guide
Paddleship Goethe operates through the Rhine Gorge between Rüdesheim and Koblenz (Stages 16/17)
Language
Throughout this guide the English spelling of Rhine is used, except for proper nouns such as Rheinquelle, Canal du Rhône au Rhin and Neder Rijn, where the appropriate national spelling is used. On the maps, Rhein is used in German-speaking areas, Rhin in France and Rijn in the Netherlands.
Place names, street names and points of interest are given in appropriate local languages. In German, nouns and their descriptive adjectives are often run together to form longer words, while ß (known as an eszett) is expressed as double ss. Occasionally this results in triple sss appearing if ß is followed by s.
Appendix F lists some words that might be encountered along the route.
Text and maps
There are 27 stages, each covered by maps drawn to a scale of 1:100,000. These maps have been produced specially for this guide and combined with the detailed stage descriptions and high standard of waymarking it is possible to follow the route without the expense or weight of carrying a large number of other maps. Take care however as the route described here does not always exactly follow the waymarked route.
All places on the maps are shown in bold in the text. The abbreviation ‘sp’ in the text indicates a signpost. Distances shown are cumulative within each stage. For each city, town or village passed an indication is given of the facilities available (accommodation, refreshments, YH, camping, tourist office, cycle shop, station) when the guide was written. This information is also summarised in Appendix B. This list is neither exhaustive nor does it guarantee that establishments are still in business. No attempt has been made to list all such facilities as this would require another book the same size as this one. For a full listing of accommodation, contact local tourist offices or look online. Tourist offices are listed in Appendix C.
While the route descriptions were accurate at the time of writing, things do change. Washouts from mountain streams can occur between Disentis/Mustér and Ilanz (Stage 1), sometimes requiring substantial deviations. On the Higher Rhine north of Karlsruhe (Stage 13) and between Worms and Oppenheim (Stage 15) and on the Lower Rhine between Duisburg and Millingen aan de Rijn (stages 22 and 23), major works to create holding polders for flood water, to open up areas for sand and gravel extraction or to raise flood dykes have resulted in alterations to the route. Such works are expected to continue with other, as yet unknown, deviations in the future. Watch out for signs (often only in local languages) showing such alterations.
The Dutch system of numbered knooppunten (waypoints) are shown as 00 in stage descriptions and on the route maps.
Dutch knooppunt (waymark)
Some alternative routes exist. Where these offer a reasonable variant (for instance are shorter, scenically superior or have a better surface) they are mentioned in the text and shown in blue on the maps.
GPX tracks
GPX files are freely available to anyone who has bought this guide on the Cicerone website at www.cicerone.co.uk/899/gpx.
