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Introduction to Lake Tahoe

Tall mountains covered with a thick blanket of conifers surround the breathtakingly blue lake, creating a stunning, alplike setting, which is famous around the globe. Whether you plumb the depths of Lake Tahoe, climb to the summit of the highest peak, or journey somewhere in-between, the Tahoe Basin provides many opportunities to appreciate the grandeur of one of the West’s most priceless treasures.

Geography and Topography

The Lake Tahoe Basin presents diverse topography that receives adoration from a devoted tourist base. At an elevation of 6,229 feet, Tahoe is the highest lake of its size in the United States and, with a depth of 1,645 feet (measured near Crystal Bay), is the third deepest lake in North America and the 10th deepest lake in the world. The 22-mile-long and 12-mile-wide lake has a 71-mile-long shoreline, with 42 of those scenic miles belonging to California and the remaining 29 owned by Nevada. Lake Tahoe is perhaps best known for the crystal clarity of its waters, which allows visibility of up to 75 feet below the surface. Sixty-three streams flow into Lake Tahoe, but only one, the Truckee River, flows out of the lake, reaching its terminus in the Great Basin, at Pyramid Lake.

Geologists speculate that the landform that would ultimately become the Tahoe Basin we know today was once beneath a shallow ancient sea in the supercontinent of Pangaea. The North American Continental Plate eventually broke away from Pangaea and headed west, colliding into the Pacific Ocean Plate, which was drifting east. Extreme pressure and heat were created as the North American Plate rose above the Pacific Plate, producing molten rock that slowly solidified beneath the sedimentary surface into granitic rocks, which were later exposed through faulting.

Faulting fractures in the earth’s crust allowed blocks of land to rise and fall, pushing the primarily plutonic rocks of the Sierra Nevada up from the ancient seabed. Two principal faults evolved in the Tahoe area, which produced uplifts that became the main Sierra Crest to the west and the Carson Range to the east. In between, the down-thrown fault block formed the deep V-shaped valley of the Tahoe Basin.

A lake began to form at the lowest, southern end of the basin, fed by precipitation and creeks draining the surrounding mountains. The level of the lake rose steadily, until an outlet for the river draining the lake was reached to the north, near the current town of Truckee. Later, a significant lava flow from Mount Pluto, site of the Northstar California Resort, dammed the outlet and caused the lake to rise again. Eventually the river was able to cut a new outlet through the volcanic rock, near the present-day Tahoe City. The highest level Lake Tahoe ever reached was an estimated 600 to 800 feet above the current level. Additional volcanic activity occurred at both the south end of the basin, around Carson Pass, and the north end of the basin, near Donner Pass.

Though a regional ice sheet was absent, in theory the last ice age put the finishing touches on the Tahoe Basin. Separate rivers of ice followed some of the existing V-shaped stream channels, carving them into classic U-shaped canyons. Glacial action scoured several of the canyons on the west side of the basin, uncovering the classic granite bedrock associated with the Sierra Nevada today. In the process, some of the area’s most picturesque lakes were formed, including Donner, Cascade, Fallen Leaf, and Echo Lakes, as well as scenic Emerald Bay on Tahoe’s southwest shore. Because the Sierra Crest creates a rain shadow effect, which limits the amount of precipitation, minimal glaciation occurred from the Carson Range to the east. Without the glacial scouring on the west side of the Tahoe Basin, the topography of the Carson Range is primarily volcanic soils rather than the classic Sierra granite bedrock. While the west side of the Tahoe Basin is sprinkled with an abundance of tarns, lakes, and ponds, the east side is nearly devoid of such features. Additional glacial activity influenced the area when ice dams formed across the Truckee River canyon and broke several times, producing floods that further shaped the canyon, depositing debris downstream as far away as present-day Reno.

Flora

Because the area ranges in elevation from 6,229 feet at lake level to 10,881 feet at the summit of Freel Peak, you can expect to encounter a wide range of flora on trails within the Tahoe Basin. The mountains and hills surrounding the beautiful shoreline of Lake Tahoe are carpeted with conifers. Though it’s hard to believe at first glance, these trees belong almost exclusively to a second-growth forest, as the basin was nearly denuded to provide timber and fuel for Virginia City and the surrounding mines during the heyday of the Comstock Lode. Though the varied vegetation defies strict classification, the following zones provide a general overview of Tahoe’s flora.

The upper montane zone, the largest zone in the basin and containing the widest variety of plant types, runs from lake level to about 8,000 feet. The upper montane zone can be grouped into six distinct divisions. Up to around 7,000 feet, the white fir forest is named for the dominant member of a mixed forest, which also includes incense cedar, sugar pine, Jeffrey pine, and ponderosa pine, as well as red fir at the upper limits. Preferring a moist habitat, the white fir forest can form dense stands with little ground cover, or more open stands allowing deciduous trees and shrubs to thrive, including quaking aspen, willow, maple, currant, gooseberry, thimbleberry, and honeysuckle. Above the white fir forest, the red fir forest extends to about 8,500 feet. Unlike the white fir forest, red fir is found in exclusive stands, usually on cool northern or eastern exposures. The red fir forest is generally dense, allowing very little ground cover, which when present is composed primarily of shade-loving flowers and plants. The Jeffrey pine forest occupies drier slopes than those preferred by the white and red fir forests. Spanning elevations from lake level to approximately 8,000 feet, open Jeffrey pine forests intermix in the lower realms with sugar pine, ponderosa pine, white fir, and incense cedar. Those conifers are replaced by western white pine, ponderosa pine, and red fir toward the upper limits.

On southern exposures, light stands of Jeffrey pine forest oftentimes intermix with Sierra juniper or with open areas of montane chaparral. The drought-tolerant montane chaparral community spans elevations across the spectrum of the upper montane zone into the subalpine zone, typically occupying dry slopes with a southern exposure. This community incorporates several common shrubs, including huckleberry oak, tobacco brush, rabbitbrush, manzanita, chinquapin, and sagebrush. Along the eastern fringe of the Carson Range, mountain mahogany and juniper trees may dot the slopes of the montane chaparral community. Areas of sufficient groundwater produce the montane meadow community. Similar to the montane chaparral community, montane meadows span the realm of the upper montane zone into the subalpine zone. The wetter environment allows grasses, rushes, and sedges to thrive, along with several species of water-loving wildflowers. The last of the five classifications within the upper montane zone is the riparian community. With the additional moisture provided by perennial streams, lush foliage along the banks includes deciduous trees and shrubs such as aspen, cottonwood, willow, alder, creek dogwood, and mountain ash. Smaller plants and colorful wildflowers are also common in creek-side environments.

Above the upper montane zone, the subalpine zone begins around 8,000 feet and continues upward to timberline, which, depending on a number of variables, starts anywhere from 9,000 to 10,000 feet in the Tahoe Sierra. With characteristically poor soils and a harsh climate, where snow covers the ground for nine months of the year, the prolific forests below give way to isolated stands of conifers and the open terrain of meadows and talus slides. Red firs, lodgepole pines, and junipers may extend into this zone in some areas, with lodgepole pines often rimming the shoreline of subalpine lakes. Despite the sporadic appearance of these trees from the lower realm, the two conifer species most closely associated with the subalpine zone are mountain hemlock and whitebark pine. Nearing timberline, dwarfed and wind-battered whitebark pines become the only conifers able to survive the conditions of this harsh environment. Shrubs and plants in this zone also take on a diminished stature, hugging the ground in order to eke out an existence. Common plants include heathers and laurels. Where seeps and rivulets provide moist soils, a short-lived but stunning display of colorful wildflowers delights passersby. Rock outcrops may provide equally delightful displays of plants and flowers.

Above timberline, at the extreme upper elevations of the Tahoe Basin, is the alpine zone. Though there is some debate among botanists as to whether the Tahoe area has a well-defined alpine zone, only the backcountry traveler who reaches the summit of some of the basin’s highest peaks will be able to observe the area in question. The vegetation within this zone appears to be a combination of tundra species from the north and desert species from the east. Whatever their origin, these plants are generally compact, low-growing perennials that grow rapidly and flower briefly, with most of their growth occurring belowground. Low-growing shrubs, such as low sagebrush and short-stemmed stenotus, share the extreme conditions and poor soils of the alpine region with an assortment of wildflowers. The uppermost slopes of Mount Rose and Freel Peak provide some of the best opportunities in the Tahoe Sierra to experience the flora of the alpine zone.

Dardanelles Lake (Trail 38)

Fauna

Along with a wide variety of plants, the Lake Tahoe Basin is home to a varied community of fauna. While traveling the trails around Lake Tahoe, with alert eyes you may be able to spot several different species of animals.

The largest mammal in the region is the omnivorous black bear, which ranges in color from black to cinnamon. Some members of Tahoe’s black bear population, particularly near developed communities on the west shore, have become quite pesky in seeking food from garbage cans, dumpsters, and campgrounds. However, most bears you might see in the backcountry remain timid and are wary of human encounters. Though bears here are not nearly the nuisance that bears are in the backcountry of Yosemite, Kings Canyon, or Sequoia National Parks, backpackers should still obey basic bear safety guidelines (see below).

More likely to be seen along the trail than a bear in the Tahoe Sierra is the mule deer, so named for its floppy ears. Mule deer prefer varied terrain with an ample food supply, mainly leaves from trees and shrubs, along with grasses, sedges, and other herbs. Watch for mule deer around dusk in grassy meadows, or during the day in open forest where browse is plentiful. Deer herds in the Tahoe Basin are migratory, retreating in winter either west to the foothills or east to the Carson Valley. Since the extinction of the grizzly bear and wolf from the Sierra, the mule deer’s only natural predator is the mountain lion.

CAUTION: WILDLIFE

Bear Safety Guidelines

 Don’t leave your pack unattended on the trail.

 Keep all food, trash, or scented items in a bear-proof canister or safely hung from a tree.

 Pack out all trash.

 Don’t allow bears to approach your food—make noise, wave your arms, throw rocks. Be bold, but keep a safe distance and use good judgment.

 If a bear gets into your food, you are responsible for cleaning up the mess.

 Never attempt to retrieve food from a bear.

 Never approach a bear, especially a cub.

 Report any incidents to the appropriate authority.

Though present in the greater Tahoe area, mountain lions, also known as cougars, are rarely seen by humans. Ranging in length from 6.5 to 8 feet and weighing as much as 200 pounds, mountain lions are primarily nocturnal, patrolling a vast range. Though mule deer are their principal food source, mountain lions will stalk smaller mammals as well. At an average weight of 20 pounds, the bobcat is the mountain lion’s smaller cousin. Also nocturnal and equally reclusive, bobcats prefer a diet of rodents. You’re much more likely to hear their blood-curdling scream during the night than see bobcats in the wild.

The highly adaptable coyote is often seen loping across the meadows and through the woodlands of Lake Tahoe. From backcountry campsites spread around the Tahoe Basin, backpackers frequently hear the coyote’s nighttime chorus of howls and yelps. Though many area residents are familiar with the coyote, they fail to realize that it is omnivorous, preferring a diet of small rodents but also dining on berries and plants when such prey is unavailable.

Other common, medium-sized mammals of Lake Tahoe include martens, marmots, raccoons, porcupines, red foxes, weasels, and badgers. Hikers frequently see Douglas squirrels, California ground squirrels, golden-mantled ground squirrels, western gray squirrels, western flying squirrels, and chipmunks. Smaller rodents include pikas, voles, shrews, mice, moles, and pocket gophers.

At dusk, backpackers camped around one of Tahoe’s backcountry lakes are almost guaranteed a visit from a handful of bats searching the skies for the evening’s first course of insects. Midsummer visitors will be comforted to know that large helpings of mosquitoes are on the bats’ menu.

The skies above the Lake Tahoe Basin are home to hundreds of bird species. While hiking around the shore of Lake Tahoe or the banks of rivers and creeks, keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles and ospreys, though they are not particularly common. Red-tailed hawks are the raptors more frequently seen patrolling the skies. Great horned owls are primarily nocturnal but may be seen napping on a tree limb during the day. A walk along Tahoe’s trails without seeing a Clark’s nutcracker, mountain chickadee, or Steller’s jay is hard to imagine. Numerous songbirds fly around the Tahoe Basin, but a fine treat would be the sighting of a mountain bluebird flitting about a subalpine meadow or perched on the branch of a young lodgepole pine near the edge.

Amphibians and reptiles are common residents of the area. The most frequently seen species include the Pacific tree frog, the western fence lizard, and the common garter snake. Though possible, encountering a western rattlesnake in the Lake Tahoe Basin is extremely unlikely.

Insects are abundant members of the Lake Tahoe community. Unfortunately, the mosquito gains the most attention. Thankfully, depending on elevation and the rate at which the previous winter’s snowpack melts, the peak of the mosquito season lasts for just a few weeks in the backcountry, usually through the last weeks of July into the first week of August.

The lakes and streams of the Tahoe Basin teem with fish, where anglers can ply their craft in search of brook, brown, cutthroat, and rainbow trout. Along with these trout, Lake Tahoe itself is home to a couple of introduced species: Mackinaw, also known as lake trout, and Kokanee salmon. Biologists theorize that Mackinaws in Lake Tahoe may reach a weight as high as 50 pounds, but the record catch so far is 37 pounds, 6 ounces. Landlocked cousins of the sockeye salmon, Kokanee salmon were introduced to Lake Tahoe in 1944. The Taylor Creek Stream Profile Chamber at the Taylor Creek Visitor Center (Trail 30) provides an excellent opportunity for viewing the annual spawning migration of the Kokanee each autumn, usually coinciding with the locally renowned Kokanee Festival, held the first week of October.

When to Go

Though Lake Tahoe is considered a year-round recreation destination, those wishing to hike snow-free trails will have to wait until the summer hiking season, when the previous winter’s snowpack has melted and the customarily pleasant weather has settled into the region. Trails begin to shed their winter mantle at lake level as early as mid- to late April, with the snow line progressively receding up the mountainside until the highest elevations are clear, usually no later than mid-July. The wildflower bloom generally begins in earnest a couple of weeks after snowmelt, which varies, depending on such factors as elevation, exposure, and temperature.

On par with many locations in the desert Southwest, the Lake Tahoe Basin has a 93% probability of sunshine for any day from June through August. However, unlike the desert Southwest, mild summer temperatures rarely exceed 80°F. With the moderating influences of both the lake’s 193-square-mile surface area and the dense forests surrounding the lake, nighttime temperatures stay mild during the summer months as well, with lows ranging from the high 30s in June to the low 40s in July and August. Precipitation during the summer is generally light at lake level, with averages of 0.69 inch for June, 0.26 inch for July, and 0.31 inch for August. Most of that falls during thunderstorms, which can be intense at higher elevations in the mountains. Unlike the Rocky Mountains, the Tahoe Sierra may experience summers of little or no thunderstorms, or a run of days when they’re fairly frequent. Hikers should always be prepared for an afternoon cloudburst and to beat a hasty retreat from higher elevations when lightning is threatening.

Warm, dry weather often lingers through the waning days of summer and occasionally through the end of September and into October. The Tahoe area is usually blessed during autumn, when temperatures are cooler but still pleasant enough for hiking. In October, when fall color adorns the meadows and stream canyons of the Tahoe Basin, the average high temperature is 57ºF and, though the average monthly precipitation climbs to 1.9 inches, there is still an 84% chance of having a sunny day. Usually in November a Pacific storm brings the first significant snowfall to the mountains, encouraging hikers to trade in their boots for skis or snowshoes.

Because Lake Tahoe is such a popular summer destination, many of the trails are heavily used during the height of the tourist season. Weekends between Memorial Day and Labor Day can be particularly crowded, especially on the southwest side of the lake. When contemplating a trip for June, July, or August, plan on hiking during the week. If a weekday adventure is out of the question, try to arrive early on the weekends to secure a parking spot and to beat the hordes up the trail. Desolation Wilderness has long been one of the most visited wilderness areas in the United States, resulting in quotas and fees for overnight users. Though the number of day hikers is not limited, trailhead registration is required for entry into the wilderness. While Lake Tahoe can be a bit of a human zoo during the summer at some localities, a good percentage of the backcountry sees light to moderate use.

Fall provides some of the finest trail experiences of the year. After Labor Day weekend the Tahoe area sees a diminishing number of tourists, a trend that continues as the days progress, until ski season begins. With good weather the norm and fewer people competing for space on the trail, hikers can experience the grandeur of the Tahoe backcountry in uncrowded fashion.

Trail Selection

Several criteria were used to arrange this assortment of Tahoe’s 50 best trails. Only the premier hikes, runs, and rides were included, based on beautiful scenery, ease of access, quality of trail, and diversity of experience. Some of the trails selected are highly popular, while others may see infrequent use. Anyone fortunate enough to complete all the trips in this guide would have a comprehensive appreciation for the natural beauty of one of the West’s most scenic recreational havens.

About 70% of the trails included in this guide are classified as out-and-back trips, requiring you to retrace your steps back to a trailhead. The remaining percentage is roughly distributed between point-to-point, loop, and partial-loop trips.

Echo Lakes (Trail 34)

Key Features

Top Trails books contain information about features for each trail. Though primarily a mountainous region, the Lake Tahoe Basin has such outstanding diversity that it offers at least a little of each feature, including sandy beaches. Lakes, streams, and waterfalls occur in abundance, as do high summits with spectacular vistas and rugged canyons. A plethora of verdant meadows are graced with scenic wildflower displays, and numerous aspen groves provide plenty of autumn color. All these features combine to make Lake Tahoe and the surrounding topography a photographer’s paradise. About the only feature that suffers in the Lake Tahoe region is solitude, due in some part to the abundance of these other attributes.

Multiple Uses

All the trails in this guide are suitable for hiking, with the exception of the Flume Trail (Trail 46). Even though hikers are permitted to use it, the Flume Trail is so popular with mountain bikers that hikers should yield their rights to the two-wheeled crowd. Though all the trails are equally legal for runners, some have been determined impractical for such use.

Lake Tahoe has become one of the West’s premier meccas for mountain bikers. Mountain biking is not permitted on the Pacific Crest Trail or in the wilderness areas around Lake Tahoe, which currently include Mount Rose, Granite Chief, Desolation, and Mokelumne Wildernesses. If two proposed wilderness areas become reality, this ban may extend to areas around Castle Peak and Meiss Meadows. Other trails—though they may be administratively classified as multiuse trails—have been excluded from prospective use by mountain bikes because of unsuitable terrain or conditions.

Equestrians will find plenty of trails within the Lake Tahoe Basin to ride. A handful of trails have been restricted from equestrian use by governmental agencies, primarily for environmental concerns or a high probability of conflict between horses and humans. Others are not recommended for horses because of unsuitable terrain.

Trail Safety

Elevations in the Lake Tahoe Basin vary from 6,229 feet at lake level to 10,881 feet at the summit of Freel Peak. Though these elevations are not considered extreme by mountaineering standards, people living near sea level who recreate at the higher elevations may experience symptoms of altitude sickness. These include headache, fatigue, loss of appetite, shortness of breath, nausea, vomiting, drowsiness, dizziness, memory loss, and loss of mental acuity. Untreated, altitude sickness can lead to acute mountain sickness, which is more serious and requires immediate medical attention.

To avoid altitude sickness, acclimatize slowly, drink plenty of fluids, and eat a diet high in carbohydrates prior to your trip. A rapid descent generally alleviates any symptoms if they develop. A severe case of altitude sickness is unlikely, though not impossible, at elevations around the lake.

Less atmosphere to filter the sun’s rays at higher altitudes increases the risks of exposure to the sun. Wear an appropriate sunblock on exposed areas, and reapply as necessary. Sunglasses will protect the eyes, which is especially important in areas where the sun reflects off snowfields or the granite bedrock that is prevalent on the west side of the basin.

Dehydration is another potential hazard while recreating in the backcountry of Lake Tahoe. Carry and drink plenty of fluids while on the trail. Any water gathered from streams or lakes should be filtered or treated. Some of the trails in the Tahoe area, particularly in the Carson Range, have long, waterless stretches, so plan on packing extra water in those areas.

Though the weather in the mountains around Lake Tahoe is predictably fair, conditions can change rapidly at any time. Be sure to pack appropriate clothing to endure any change in the weather. Even if the day is fair, temperatures can be radically different at lake level than at the summit of a windswept peak like Mount Tallac or Freel Peak. Dousing thunderstorms can leave the ill prepared wet, cold, and potentially hypothermic; snowfall has occurred at Lake Tahoe during every month of the year.

Mosquitoes can be a major irritant for recreationists during midsummer, when long pants, long-sleeved shirts, and mosquito netting are good apparel choices. Application and reapplication of an insect repellent with plenty of DEET should keep the winged pests at bay. Clothing manufacturers have developed lines of pants, shirts, scarves, and hats that have insect repellent infused into the fabrics, and products are also available to wash this protection into your clothes at home. Such measures are a good deterrent against ticks as well, though they are generally much less of a nuisance. There is a remote possibility, however, that a tick could infect you with Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Inspect your body for bites at least once a day and check your clothes for any unwanted travelers. If you are bitten by a tick, firmly grasp the pest with a pair of tweezers and use gentle traction for its removal, making sure that the head is not left behind. After successful removal of the entire tick, wash the area thoroughly with antibacterial soap and water and apply an antibiotic ointment. Consult a physician if flulike symptoms, headache, rash, joint pain, or fever develop.

Camping and Permits

Plenty of camping opportunities exist around the greater Lake Tahoe area. The hard part may be securing a spot, as many of the campgrounds are extremely popular during the summer months, especially on weekends. Reservations are recommended between Memorial Day weekend and Labor Day weekend. The U.S. Forest Service manages the bulk of public campgrounds in the greater Lake Tahoe area. California State Parks and Nevada State Parks manage several excellent campgrounds as well. South Lake Tahoe and Tahoe City each offer a public campground. In addition, there are a number of private campgrounds, including popular Camp Richardson, on the southwest shore.

Desolation Wilderness is the one area in the Tahoe Basin that requires day hikers to secure a permit. Self-registration is available at most trailheads. Otherwise, permits can be obtained from the Lake Tahoe Visitor Center near Fallen Leaf Lake.

Wilderness permits are required for backpackers entering Desolation Wilderness or Mokelumne Wilderness. More specific information on these permits is provided in the chapter on trails in South Tahoe. Backpackers using the Pacific Crest Trail or Tahoe Rim Trail must use portable gas stoves (no campfires) and obtain a campfire permit for their use. At the time of research, wilderness permits were not required for overnight use of Granite Chief Wilderness or Mount Rose Wilderness.

Mount Rose (Trail 12)