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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Aphrodite’s birthplace, Petra tou Romiou
According to legend, the goddess of love and beauty, Aphrodite, was born in Cyprus. Her birthplace, Petra tou Romiou – the famous rock formation near Paphos/Baf – rising from the turquoise sea, attracts many tourists every day. Admiring the striking sea stack from the pebbly beach in the early hours before the coachloads of noisy tourists arrive, you can see why a goddess of beauty would rise from the sea on that very spot. Cyprus has a strong connection with Greek mythology, and today places of interest and even walking trails bear the names of mythological figures.
The scenery changes from the rugged coastline of the Akamas Peninsula, washed with turquoise water, to the wildflower-carpeted meadows and pine-covered slopes of Troodos; across the cultivated Mesaoria Plains to the narrow, serene Kyrenia/Beşparmak mountains. The Kyrenia range leads to the Karpaz/Karpass Peninsula, which is like an outstretched arm pointing towards Turkey.
Sunshine, a Mediterranean climate and golden beaches with crystal-clear waters have attracted tourists for many years. But walkers – who prefer to leave the hustle of seaside towns, noisy taverns and the busy archaeological sites behind – have only just started to discover Cyprus’ outstanding walking trails. The sound of waves crashing against the rocks and the smell of seawater accompany the walker on sunny coastal trails, while birdsong entertains them as they walk through the dramatic Avakas Gorge on the Akamas Peninsula. Hikers might spot shy mouflon (a type of wild sheep) hopping skilfully on the steep slopes in Paphos Forest and the wild donkeys staring curiously at people on the Karpaz/Karpass Peninsula.
In the centre of the island, in the Troodos mountains, zigzagging footpaths lead to small, hidden churches and Byzantine monasteries – many of which are on the UNESCO Word Heritage List for their unique architecture and colourful frescos. Winding nature trails on pine-covered slopes with stunning views give walkers the opportunity to admire the beauty of these mountains.
Meanwhile, with castles proudly perched on rocks and mysterious monasteries in the shade of mighty trees, the thin, dramatic Kyrenia mountain range stretches across almost the entire length of Northern Cyprus.
In every season the island has its own magic to share with visitors. In some winters, snow covers the mountain peaks of Troodos, and Cyprus has Europe’s most southerly ski resort. In spring, streams grow wider and colourful wildflowers carpet the meadows, while in the peak of summer the hazy air is filled with the chirping of cicadas. In autumn, families gather together to harvest grapes that grow on sunny slopes. At any time of the year elderly people are often found gossiping in front of their homes on the narrow streets of peaceful villages.
After a day spent exploring the trails, walkers might enjoy a well-deserved dinner in a rustic restaurant in one of the seaside towns or villages. Cypriot cuisine is strongly related to Greek and Turkish cuisine but with a local twist; fresh vegetables, olives, halloumi cheese, meat, fish and Greek yoghurt are among the ingredients common to traditional Cypriot food. Wine is a necessary accompaniment for local dishes, and in Cyprus people have been making it for thousands of years. Commandaria, the sweet dessert wine, is believed to be the oldest named wine in the world: it was served at the wedding of Richard the Lionheart in Limassol and the king was so impressed that he pronounced Commandaria ‘the wine of kings and the king of wines’.
The Profitis Elias chapel among the vineyards near Pano Panagia (Walk 7)
Due to its location, the island played a significant role in trading from around 3000BC and through the medieval centuries. It has belonged to different empires in its eventful past, with numerous artefacts and remains of ancient buildings around the island attesting to its diverse culture and troubled history. However, unlike other Mediterranean islands, it is not only the distant past that has left its legacy: after the island gained independence in 1960, tensions between the Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities grew, resulting in an eventual coup by the Greek Cypriots and an invasion by Turkey. The UN-controlled buffer zone (known as the ‘Green Line’) that runs like a long scar across the island, dividing its inhabitants, demonstrates that the recent past is still affecting the lives of many in Cyprus. This, as well as the island’s earlier history, is described further in ‘Brief history’.
However, while Cyprus may be politically divided, the amazing scenery can be enjoyed on both sides of the island regardless of political views. Cypriots – whether they speak Greek or Turkish, attend church or mosque – greet visitors with a friendly welcome on both sides of the Green Line.
Location and geography
Cyprus, surrounded by three continents, lies in the north eastern corner of the Mediterranean Sea. It is only 74km south of Turkey, about 100km from Syria and approximately 800km from mainland Greece. The island is 240km long and 100km wide at its widest point. It is the third largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, from which it rose millions of years ago.
The foundation rocks of Cyprus were once part of the oceanic crust of the Tethys Ocean and as such weren’t connected to any continental plate. In the late Miocene period, the African Plate levered the floor of the Tethys Ocean, causing Cyprus to emerge. The Troodos mountains were once part of the ocean bed and today they form the best-preserved example of ocean floor on the Earth’s surface. Here geologists can study the prehistoric sea floor.
Cyprus’s two mountain ranges – the Troodos and the Kyrenia mountains – dominate its landscape. Troodos, located in the middle of the island, is mainly formed of igneous rock with its lower slopes covered by chalk. The Kyrenia, running across nearly the entire northern part of the island, consists of limestone and marble. About two million years ago the Kyrenia and Troodos mountains were islands; the land was constantly rising and the area between the two mountain ranges became the Mesaoria Plain.
Plants and flowers
There are approximately 1800 identified plant species on the island, of which around 140 are endemic. Some of the endemic plants’ habitats are restricted to specific areas such as the Troodos mountains or the Akamas Peninsula.
Calabrian pine (Pinus brutia) forest, which thrives from sea level to an altitude of 1400m, covers the slopes of the Troodos and Kyrenia mountains and part of the Akamas Peninsula.
In Troodos the golden oak (Quercus alnifolia) appears at around 700m and the black pine (Pinus nigra) grows at higher altitudes. The Cyprus cedar (Cedrus brevifolia) can only be found in the Paphos Forest – especially around Trypilos Mountain. Cypress, juniper, alder and plane trees are quite common on the island.
The carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua) is typical to the Mediterranean region and has been used in many different ways since ancient times. It can be found growing in the wild but is widely cultivated for its edible pods. The word ‘carat’ – the unit used to measure the purity of gold – is derived from the Greek word keration as the pods’ small seeds were used to measure gold in ancient times.
Colourful wildflowers begin to bloom from late February and the meadows can be carpeted with flowers well into May. Walking is the best way to observe the flowers, and even without specialist knowledge you can admire the extensive colours. Rock roses – their colours ranging from white and yellow to pink – often cover the hillsides.
The Kyrenia mountains are home to many wildflowers, including orchids. The greatest number of wild orchids appear in March and April. More than 30 species of orchid can be found in Cyprus, in places ranging from shady forest floors to rocky hillsides. The Cyprus bee orchid and the Lapithos bee orchid are endemic.
The Italian orchid (Orchis italica) – or as it is commonly known, the ‘naked man orchid’ – is native to the Mediterranean region
The island’s national flower, the Cyprus cyclamen (Cyclamen cyprium), which blooms pink or white, flowers in the early autumn in moist forests. The dark-coloured, protected Cyprus tulip (Tulipa cypria) grows in the Akamas Peninsula, the Kormakitis/Kormacit Peninsula and in some parts of the Kyrenia range. The St Hilarion cabbage (Brassica hilarionis) can be found mainly in Northern Cyprus, especially near St Hilarion Castle (Walk 36).
Typical plants and flowers are labelled on most nature trails in Southern Cyprus, so walkers can learn to recognise them.
Wildlife
There are 21 known species of mammal on the island. Only the luckiest walkers will spot the biggest of these – the shy Cypriot mouflon – hopping on the steep slopes in the less busy areas of the Paphos Forest and the mountains of Troodos. There is, however, a mouflon enclosure at Stavros Tis Psokas in Paphos Forest, providing an opportunity to see these endemic animals.
Mouflon once populated the mountains of Cyprus in greater numbers, but by the middle of the 20th century hunting had decreased this population significantly. Then in 1939 the whole Paphos Forest was designated a Game Protected Area, and today it is also a Special Protected Area; thanks to these great efforts to protect the mouflon and their habitat, their numbers have increased to a satisfactory level.
Further north, dark-coloured wild donkeys inhabit the Karpaz/Karpass Peninsula. These animals are descendants of the domesticated donkeys abandoned by people who were displaced by political conflict in the 1970s (see ‘Brief history’).
Two bird species – the Cyprus warbler and Cyprus wheatear – are only found in Cyprus, and there is a conservation project in place to protect the endangered Griffon vulture.
Due to its geographic location, Cyprus is an important stopping place for migrating birds, and is therefore a great place for birdwatching. Unfortunately, despite the activity being outlawed in 1974, many birds are illegally trapped, killed and served as a delicacy in some restaurants.
Some of the sandy beaches on the island are important hatching places for the green turtle and the loggerhead turtle – both of which are endangered and protected. Turtles lay eggs every 2–5 years on the same beach where they were born, and development of the beaches means that the adult turtle might be unable to return to its birthplace. Tourism, fishing and pollution have decreased the number of suitable nesting beaches around the island, but there is now a great effort to protect the areas where the turtles lay their eggs. Hatcheries at Lara Beach in South Cyprus and Alagadi Beach in North Cyprus are specially protected areas where visitors can learn about turtles and the effort to safeguard them. In North Cyprus the Marine Turtle Research Group has been monitoring nestling turtles since 1992.
A very small number of monk seals is believed to be living on Cyprus’ remote shores. (It is estimated that there are fewer than 700 monk seals in the entire Mediterranean.)
Most of the snakes in Cyprus are harmless; however the blunt-nosed viper is venomous but it only attacks in self-defence. Its body is about 1.5m long, silvery-beige in colour with rectangular markings and black spots on its head. It is usually found near water. If bitten by one of these, seek medical help immediately: call 112 or go to one of the hospitals or medical centres in the towns.
The 2m-long large whipsnake, which is shiny and black, is aggressive but non-venomous; however its bite is painful so keep your distance.
The whipsnake’s bite is painful but non-venomous
Also common – on the coastlines and the mountains of North Cyprus – is the light-brown coin snake. There are dark coin-shaped patterns along its body and it can grow up to 1.7m. It might be aggressive but is non-venomous.
Brief history
Cyprus’ eventful past, from ancient times right through the 20th century, could fill this book. This section gives only a very brief history, highlighting the key events which have shaped the Cyprus we see today.
The island has belonged to a number of different empires over the centuries, with each having an influence on its culture, architecture, cuisine and religion. This is very much in evidence on the walks, where you’ll come across ruins, Byzantine churches, Venetian bridges, monasteries, castles and EOKA (National Organisation of Cypriot Fighters) hideouts.
Early history
There is evidence that Cyprus has been inhabited since 8000BC. Today, the ruins of city kingdoms in Kourion, Paphos, Soloi, Lapithos/Lapta and Salamis – each dating to different periods in the island’s ancient history – are well visited by tourists.
The name ‘Cyprus’ means copper, and refers to the fact that copper was abundant here, however it is unknown whether the island was named after the metal or the metal after the island. In earlier times the metallic copper was found on the surface. Copper was reduced to metal as pine resins in groundwater mixed with copper sulphate. Cyprus supplied the ancient world with weapons-grade copper, which was used to make swords and shields. When the copper was no longer to be found on the surface, Cypriots discovered that if cuprous earth and umber were mixed and then heated, they could get melted copper. Smelting began in 2760BC. Cyprus was an ideal place for mining and smelting as the island had all the necessary natural resources. The forests provided wood to fire the furnaces: they had to be replanted to meet demand, but the rainfall in the mountains made cultivation possible. Copper has been mined on Cyprus for 4000 years, producing millions of tons of slag. This used to be used to build roads but today the slag-heaps are protected monuments.
Cyprus was part of the Persian Empire and was only released from it in 333BC with Alexander the Great’s victory over the Persian ruler Darius III. The island then became part of the Greek Empire. When Alexander died in 323BC, Cyprus was taken over by Egypt and became part of the Hellenistic Egypt under Ptolemy I, and the island’s capital was moved from Salamis to Paphos.
In 58BC the Roman Empire annexed Cyprus and the following 600 years passed under Roman rule. There are many ruins of buildings and mosaics from this period which can still be seen today, such as the mosaics excavated at the Paphos Archaeological Site by the harbour of Kato Paphos.
Christianity appeared on the island in AD45 when Apostle Paul started spreading the new religion. The Church of Cyprus was set up by apostles and Cyprus became ‘the Island of Saints’.
When the Roman Empire was divided in AD395, Cyprus came under the eastern half – the Byzantine Empire. During the Byzantine period (4th–12th century), many impressive churches were built and remarkable frescos were painted, such as at Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis (Walk 12), Asinou church (Walk 21) and Panagia tou Araka church (Walk 22).
The growing Islamic empire started to attack Byzantine lands in the 7th century; Cyprus, located between the two empires, was also attacked and many coastal settlements were destroyed in AD647. Castles and fortifications were built to protect the land from Arab attacks, and the ruins of St Hilarion, Buffavento and Kantara castles (Walks 36, 37 and 43) in the Kyrenia mountains are still visited by many.
Dramatic view of the Kyrenia range from Buffavento Castle (Walk 37)
The Middle Ages
On his third crusade, between 1189 and 1192, bad weather forced Richard the Lionheart’s fleet to dock in Limassol. There, Isaak Komninos – emperor of Cyprus at the time – tried to capture King Richard’s fiancée, Berengaria of Navarre, and his sister. In response, King Richard marched on Limassol and Komninos fled to Kantara Castle. In 1191 Richard married Berengaria in Limassol Castle, and Cyprus became the only foreign country where an English royal wedding was held.
Richard stayed in Cyprus for a year and during that time he conquered the entire island and then sold it to the Knights Templar. However, the Knights couldn’t afford to keep the island and in turn sold it to Guy de Lusignan in 1192. From then until 1474 Cyprus was ruled by Lusignan descendants. Bellapais Abbey and many other splendid buildings were built during this period.
The last Lusignan king, James II, married a Venetian noblewoman who handed Cyprus over to Venice. The island was under Venetian rule from 1489 to 1571. Cyprus played an important role for the Venetians as a trading route and was used as a defence against the threatening Ottoman Empire. Forts were built around the big cities such as Famagusta/Mağusa and Nicosia/Lefkoşa.
Roudia Bridge, built by the Venetians, connects the two banks of the Xeros River (Walk 9)
In 1570–71 Famagusta was attacked by the Ottomans and a year later the city fell. With this, a new era began in the island’s history: Turkish settlers arrived on the island and for almost 300 years Cyprus was controlled by the Ottomans.
While the Ottomans left the Greek orthodox churches intact, they converted some of the Gothic Catholic churches into mosques – for example the Lala Mustafa Pasha mosque in Famagusta – and their influence on the culture and architecture of the island is still very much in evidence.
20th century
The origin of the campaign for enosis (union with Greece) can be traced back to the Greek War of Independence (1821–32) when the Greeks fought for their independence from the Ottoman Empire. Some Greek Cypriots also rebelled, but the Ottomans executed 486 Greek Cypriots – accused of conspiring with the Greeks – on 9 July 1821. The desire to become part of Greece grew stronger when Greece became independent in 1830, but Cyprus remained under Ottoman control until 1878, when it came under British control. The British assumed administrative responsibility while Turkey maintained sovereignty, then at the beginning of WWI Great Britain annexed Cyprus and from 1925 the island was a Crown Colony.
The Greek Cypriots had hoped that British control would eventually help them achieve enosis. However, impatience grew and the Ethniki Organosi tou Kyprakou Agona (EOKA – National Organisation of Cypriot Fighters) was founded with the intention of ending British rule and achieving enosis. Between 1955 and 1958 EOKA carried out a series of attacks on the British military.
Turkish Cypriots only comprised a 17% minority of the population and they feared that if Cyprus achieved a union with Greece they would be excluded. Therefore they demanded taksim (partition), to divide the island between Greece and Turkey.
In 1960 Cyprus finally became independent, with Archbishop Makarios III becoming the first president of the Republic of Cyprus, but in 1963 serious violence broke out and the tensions between Greek and Turkish Cypriots increased. In 1964 a UN peacekeeping force arrived in Cyprus. Major General Peter Young drew a green line on the map, dividing the capital, Nicosia, between the Greek and Turkish. This later became known as the ‘Green Line’ and went on to divide the whole island.
In 1974 the Greek Cypriots, supported by the military junta in Greece, carried out a coup. In response, Turkey invaded the island. By 16 August 1974 the northern part – 37% of the island – was controlled by Turkey. The 190,000 Greek Cypriots that lived in the northern areas left their homes and lost their land and businesses as they fled to the south. Meanwhile, 50,000 Turkish Cypriots moved from the south to Northern Cyprus. A number of people were killed and many disappeared during the conflict, and the UN has controlled and patrolled the Green Line – which runs across the entire island – ever since.
In 1983 the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus – a self-declared state recognised only by Turkey – was announced. In 2003, for the first time in almost 30 years, the border was opened, allowing Cypriots to visit the opposing parts. Since then several border crossing points have been opened, allowing Cypriots and tourists to travel around the island.
Cyprus joined the European Union as a de facto divided island in 2004. The whole of Cyprus is EU territory and Turkish Cypriots are classed as EU citizens as they are citizens of the Republic of Cyprus (an EU country) despite the fact that they live in a part of Cyprus that is not under the Republic’s government control. Since 2008 Southern Cyprus’ currency has been the euro, while in Northern Cyprus it is the Turkish lira. Today, Nicosia is the last divided capital in Europe.
Religion
Most Greek Cypriots (who make up nearly 80% of the island’s population) belong to the Orthodox Church of Cyprus, while most Turkish Cypriots are Sunni Muslims.
The Church of Cyprus is an autocephalous Greek Orthodox Church – meaning it has its own independent head bishop who does not report to any higher human authority. It is one of the oldest churches of this type. Ten of the churches built during the Byzantine period in the Troodos mountains are on the World Heritage List. Their steep-pitched wooden roofs are typical of the Troodos region, and some of the churches – for example Agios Nikolaos tis Tegis near Kakopetria – also have a second timber roof. The UNESCO-listed Byzantine churches are also known for their frescos; some of them – such as Asinou church near Nikitari – have their entire interior covered in these paintings.
Monasteries were generally built in the mountains, so that the monks who lived in them could be further from temptation and closer to God. Many of these buildings also contain great collections of frescos. When visiting a monastery or church in Cyprus, wear long trousers and cover your arms. Some monasteries have a selection of robes by the entrance for visitors to cover themselves up with.
When Cyprus fell under the Ottoman Empire in 1571, Turkish settlers arrived onto the island and brought their religion, Islam, with them. During the Ottoman period some churches were converted into mosques (for example the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque in Famagusta), creating unique and impressive constructions. These – especially the ones in Nicosia and Famagusta – can be visited by tourists. You will have to leave your shoes by the door and women have to cover their head with a headscarf. Many well-visited mosques offer headscarves for female visitors.
Although the Turkish Cypriots in Northern Cyprus are Sunni Muslims, most of them don’t follow their religion too strictly; they consume alcohol and women don’t cover their heads in public.
Getting there
View from the section between Kionia picnic site and Machairas Monastery (Walk 24)
There are plenty of direct flights from UK and many other European airports to Paphos and Larnaca/Larnaka in the south of the island. Shop around for the best deals. You could also check out the well-known tour operators; they offer package holidays, mainly for tourist resorts, but it’s possible to book flights only with them. Easyjet, Ryanair, British Airways, Jet2 and Thomas Cook all have direct flights from UK airports.
There are no direct flights to the northern part of Cyprus. Flights arriving at Ercan – the airport in Northern Cyprus – must travel via Turkey. If you choose this option you might face a longer travelling time. If you leave the airport you need a visa to enter Turkey; this can be obtained by completing an electronic application form. You don’t need a visa if you hold a British or EU passport and are only changing flights in Turkey. If you’re not a British passport holder, see www.mfa.gov.tr for visa requirements for Turkey and http://mfa.gov.ct.tr for Northern Cyprus.
For the fastest possible route to the north of the island, fly to Larnaca from where border crossing points are easily accessed. From the airport you can take one of the buses to Nicosia where you can cross the border on foot.
Ferries operate between Kyrenia/Girne and mainland Turkey – see Appendix B for booking details.
Border crossings
The northern part of the island – the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus – is a self-declared state recognised only by Turkey. It is referred to as ‘Northern Cyprus’ by most outsiders, but the Greek Cypriots in the south consider it an occupied area. Since 2003 Cypriots from both sides have been allowed to visit the opposing parts, and tourists can easily visit both parts of the island.
Most tourists visit South Cyprus, but for walkers there are some peaceful and spectacular walking trails to be discovered in the north. However, to get there you might need a bit more planning (see ‘Getting there’, above). EU passport holders don’t need a visa to enter Northern Cyprus; some travel websites suggest that on entering Northern Cyprus it is necessary to fill out a form which is then stamped, but in 2016 there was no such form and it was only necessary to show passports.
There are several crossing points on the island. These are known by many different names, as Turkish, Greek and occasionally English place names are used, and they are also often referred to by the name of the nearest village. You can cross from the south to the north and vice versa on foot in Nicosia, at Ledra Palace Hotel and Ledra Street. There are five other crossing points: Limnitis/Yesilirmak, Astromeritis/Zodhia, Agios Dometios/Metehan and Pyla/Beyarmudu, Strovilia/Akyar.
The busy Ledra Street in Nicosia, lined with shops, cafés and restaurants, comes abruptly to the border crossing point. After presenting your passport to the two authorities you can continue on the very same street, but with a very different ambience. Many tourists visit both parts of the divided capital on the same day. If you want to continue towards the north, you can find minibuses departing to Kyrenia from North Nicosia just outside the old city walls. Many car hire companies offer a pick-up service if you decide to cross the border on foot, and taxis are also available.
Some car hire companies allow you to take a car hired in the south to the northern part of the island, but extra insurance will have to be purchased. However, cars hired on the north cannot be taken to the south.
Getting around
There are plenty of small waterfalls to enjoy on Walk 16
Buses
If you want to get around by bus you need careful planning. There are buses running along the coast and serving some villages from Paphos, Limassol, Nicosia and Polis, but you need to check the timetables very carefully when planning a walk. Some villages are only served by one or two buses daily and a return journey can also be tricky. Check routes and timetables at the local bus stations and tourist offices before setting off for a walk.
Intercity buses connect major towns; for more information visit the town’s bus terminal. You could also consult the local websites, but remember to check when they were last updated:
Buses in Northern Cyprus run between the major towns, and white minibuses, known as dolmuş, serve North Nicosia, Famagusta and Kyrenia. Getting around by dolmuş is cheap but they don’t have a timetable; people either have to wave them down or board the vehicle at its departing point.
Bear in mind that many of the walks described in this guide start and/or finish in a remote place with no public transport, in which case a taxi or hired car may be the only option.
Taxis and car hire
While it may seem like a disadvantage to have a car parked at one end of a linear walk, most of the time it is possible to retrace your steps or arrange a pick-up service at the other end. This also applies if you’re relying on buses, as you might get to the beginning of the linear route relatively easily but then need to call a taxi at the end of the walk. In the Troodos mountains you can find taxis in Platres and Troodos Square, and it is recommended to arrange the taxi before you start your walk.
Hiring a car is easy; cars can be booked in advance or are available in towns and are very reasonably priced. On Cyprus, drive on the left. Main roads are in good condition but you can easily find yourself driving on winding, single-lane roads with the threat of rock fall. Check with your car hire company about any rules for driving on dirt roads.
If you hire a car in the south, you might be able to take it to the northern part of the island but you will need to purchase extra insurance. However, if you hire a car in the north you are not permitted to take it to the south.
Roads might be busy around the coastal towns and near the historical sights but many mountain roads are quiet. The driving habits in Cyprus may seem a bit more chaotic than in the UK, but locals know their roads and cars and they can recognise tourists on the road so driving is as safe as anywhere can ever be. A hire car is one of the best and easiest ways to get around the island.
A view over Ayia Eirini (Walk 20)
Accommodation
Choice of accommodation is always a personal one, taking into account your budget and preferences. There are plenty of hotels and self-catering options to choose from in coastal areas, and there is a range of options both in the Troodos and further north around Kyrenia.
As a walker you might opt to tackle several day trips in the same area, or you might consider splitting your holiday between different bases. If you decide to stay in one base, for example in a coastal town, you can still enjoy different areas on the island as many places are easily reached in a day trip. When choosing accommodation you might want to bear in mind that many towns have interesting sights that you can explore after your walk.
There are also some campsites on the island; a list of Cyprus Tourism Organisation (CTO) licensed campsites can be found at www.visitcyprus.com.
For accommodation resources, see Appendix B.
Tourist information
The tourist information offices in Limassol, Polis, Platres, Paphos, Larnaca airport, and Agia Napa provide really useful information about trails and historical sites. Booklets about the most popular nature trails and the E4 long-distance trail (which was extended onto Cyprus in 2005) are also available from the Troodos Visitor Centre; some of them can be downloaded from the Department of Forests website: www.moa.gov.cy/moa/fd/fd.nsf (select the English-language option, if required, and then ‘Informative Leaflets’). Check the opening times of the Troodos Visitor Centre as it varies.
It is best to ask for information about transport at the local bus terminals and Cyprus Tourism Organisation (CTO) offices.
In Northern Cyprus there are tourist information offices in Kyrenia, Nicosia, Famagusta and Ercan airport. There is also a kiosk with maps and leaflets at the Ledra Street border crossing in Nicosia. Booklets of some of the trails, with basic maps and historical sites, are available in English.
You can also find useful information on the following websites:
and for Northern Cyprus
The vertical sea cliffs near Pissouri (Walk 28)
Language
Greek and Turkish are the two official languages in Cyprus, and English is widely spoken. Signs are usually in Greek, and English is in use in the south; however spelling with the Latin alphabet is not consistent. Names of places, villages, nature trails and historical sites are spelled in many different ways. Signs are in Turkish in the north but they might include the old Greek name as well. See ‘Using this guide’ for details of the way in which place names are presented in this guide.
When to go and what to take
Cyprus might seem like a year-round destination, but the best times for walking are the spring and autumn months. The summer months – from May to September – are generally too hot for walking, although some of the trails in the cooler Troodos mountains might be considered. In autumn, although the land may be parched after the summer heat, there is scope for enjoying a much wider range of walks. Most rainfall occurs during winter, when snow can cover the Troodos. Perhaps the best time to discover the trails of Cyprus is the spring months, when wildflowers carpet the meadows and the temperature is warm but not too hot.
When preparing for a walk described in this book, pack what you would normally take for a day walk. Carry a waterproof jacket as showers can surprise you even in the spring (especially in the Kyrenia mountains). Take a jumper with you; Troodos is traditionally cooler than the coast. Comfortable hiking boots, sun cream and sun hat are all essential, and always carry ample water for your day.
Maps and waymarking
Walking maps are not available for Cyprus. There are some tourist maps, which you can pick up at the airports or in the tourist offices, but they don’t outline the trails. There are publications of some of the popular trails of Northern Cyprus, including sketch maps, which are available from tourist offices. You can also pick up leaflets of the popular nature trails from tourist information offices in the south. Road maps for both parts of the island are available from tourist offices and airports.
The diverse trails in South Cyprus range from rugged coastline to forest walks, a stroll between vineyards to walking in the mountains of Troodos. Nature trails are marked on the island, but these are not unified and many different signs are in use. At the beginning of the nature trails there is usually a map board with some information about the length and terrain and sometimes about the vegetation. Plants, flowers and trees are labelled along the trail so you can learn to recognise them. Benches are placed at some of the best viewpoints.
Map board
Some of the trails described in this book are based on nature trails. The Department of Forests has a booklet of the island’s nature trails (see ‘Tourist information’, above), but some villages have created their own trails nearby and those are not listed by the CTO (Cyprus Tourism Organisation). Some of these routes start by the roadside and might end at a picnic site or another roadside; in such cases it is necessary to arrange a pick-up or plan to retrace your steps. These routes are usually not too long and walking back on the same path you may enjoy slightly different views. Paths used by walkers but not designated as nature trails often have occasional painted arrows and cairns.
The European Long Distance Path is marked with ‘E4’. The E4 runs through Portugal, Spain, France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, mainland Greece and Crete. The section in Cyprus was added in 2005 and it connects Paphos and Larnaca airports. It often follows tarmac roads but it aims to explore the diverse scenery of Cyprus. Some of the nature trails are part of the E4 and a few walks in this book follow some scenic sections of the E4.
Besparmak long-distance trail sign; marker pyramid in North Cyprus; iron arrow in South Cyprus; direction marker in South Cyprus
The landscape of Northern Cyprus is dominated by the Kyrenia mountains. An official long-distance trail, the 255km-long Besparmak Trail in Northern Cyprus, is marked with a green ‘B’ sign. It starts at Cape Kormakitis/Kormacit and ends at the tip of the Karpaz/Karpass Peninsula. Many of the walks described in this book follow the green B signs.
Other trails are usually marked with green and white signs. However, on some trails you can see red, blue and yellow paint marks on rocks, which are often helpful when the path is overgrown. The start points of trails are usually marked with a wooden trail gate.
There are numbered pyramids at junctions, marked on the maps found at the beginning of the trails, to help orientation. Pyramids are mentioned in the walk descriptions and marked on the maps in this book.
Wild donkeys of the Karpaz Peninsula
Using this guide
An information box at the start of each walk provides the following information: start/finish point (including GPS coordinates), length of walk in kilometres, amount of ascent/descent in metres, difficulty rating (see grading information below), the length of time the walk is likely to take, and any details about refreshments and access that may be useful in planning. Note that where parking is mentioned it often refers to an informal parking area rather than an official car park. (At picnic sites there are usually plenty of places to park, and there are also often places for a couple of cars near the information board at the beginning of trails.)
The grading in this guide is only an indicator; bad weather, poor visibility and other factors can make any walk more challenging and even dangerous.
Grade 1: easy and/or short walk. Trail is without any significant ascent/descent. Waymarked route.
Grade 2: moderate, medium length or longer walk but mostly on easy terrain.
Grade 3: long walk and/or difficult terrain, or challenging route-finding.
The times provided – both for the walks themselves and between landmarks – are only an approximate indication. You should always allow extra time. The walk times do not take account of longer breaks for picnics or visiting a monument, castle or church.
The times and distances given in the route information boxes and route summary table are from the start to the finish of the walk. On there-and-back walks, the time is for the whole walk. On linear routes where the finish is different from the start, you will have to either arrange onward transport or retrace your steps to the start, in which case you would need to factor in additional walking time.
When planning a walk it is advisable to use Open Street Map (www.openstreetmap.org), Google Maps (www.maps.google.com) or a tourist map (available from tourist offices) to help locate the start-point. Access to the beginning of the trails is described in as much detail as possible. To help identify the exact spot, GPS coordinates are also given. These are especially useful in Northern Cyprus where the access is often difficult to describe, as roads are not numbered and the available maps don’t show street names in villages. Furthermore, many trails start from or end at a remote place or outside a village.
Where there is water available on the route it is noted in the walk description, but you should never rely on it entirely as the tap or fountain might not be working at the picnic site when you get there. Occasionally there are warning signs – often only in Greek – that the water is non-potable (Μη Ποσιμο Νερο/ΜΗ ΠΟΣΙΜΟ ΝΕΡΟ). Always carry enough drinking water for your day.
Always try and check the visiting hours of churches given in this book as they can change from year to year.
In this guide, the spelling of place names in walk descriptions matches the spelling used on the maps in the guide, rather than what might be seen on signposts on the ground (which can vary along the trail). In addition, place names are given in both Greek and Turkish where both are in common use.
Places and features shown on the route maps are marked in bold in route descriptions to aid navigation. The term ‘viewpoint’ is often used to describe a place where you can get great views; this might simply be from a rock rather than a signposted viewpoint. Designated, marked viewpoints are noted as such in the route description.
View of Chrysochou Bay (Walk 5)
