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Important Asian Ingredients

Asian eggplants are long and slender, smaller and slightly milder than Mediterranean globe eggplants. Asian eggplants can be either purple or green.

Bean paste is made from fermented black or yellow soybeans, and is an important seasoning in Asian dishes. Black bean paste (tau cheo) has a strong, salty flavor, while yellow bean paste (miso) is slightly sweet. “Sweet” and “hot” salted beans have added sugar or garlic and chili. Soybean pastes are available at Asian food stores.

Black Chinese mushrooms, also known as shiitake mushrooms, are used widely in Asian cooking. The dried ones must be soaked in hot water to soften before use, from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the thickness. The stems are removed and discarded; only the caps are used. Fresh shiitake mushroom stems can be eaten if the bottoms are trimmed.

Cardamom pods are highly aromatic and contain tiny black seeds. If whole pods are used, they should be removed from the food before serving. If only the seeds are called for, lightly smash the pods and remove the seeds, discarding the pods. Ground cardamon is sold in packets or tins.

Chili peppers come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Fresh green and red Asian finger-length chilies are moderately hot. Tiny red, green or orange bird’s-eye chilies (chili padi) are very hot. Dried chilies are usually deseeded, cut into lengths and soaked in warm water to soften before use. Ground red pepper, also known as cayenne is made from ground dried chilies. Chili oil is made from dried chilies or chili powder infused in oil, which is used to enliven some Sichuan dishes. Chili paste consists of pounded fresh or dried chilies, sometimes mixed with vinegar and garlic and sold in jars. Sichuan chili paste is made from dried chilies, soaked and ground with a touch of oil. Chili sauce is made by mixing ground chilies with water and seasoning the mixture with salt, sugar and vinegar or lime juice. It is available bottled and in jars.

Coconut milk is obtain by squeezing the flesh of freshly grated coconuts. To obtain thick coconut milk, add 1 cup (250 ml) of water to the grated flesh of one coconut, then squeeze and strain. Although freshly squeezed milk has more flavor, it is now widely sold canned and in packets. Grated fresh coconut can be purchased from Asian markets or you can grate it yourself. Purchase coconuts that are heavy and have a lot of juice in them. Crack the coconut open and drain the juice. Break the shell into smaller pieces by turning over on a firm surface and knocking with a mallet. Use a knife to release the meat from the shell. Remove the flesh from the shell and peel the brown outer skin using a vegetable peeler. Grate the flesh in a blender or food processor, adding a bit of water to help the blades turn.

Coriander is an indispensable herb and spice in Asian cooking. Coriander seeds are roasted and then ground in spice pastes. Coriander roots are used in the same way, while coriander leaves (also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley) are used as a herb and a garnish.

Curry powder is a spice blend that generally includes cumin seeds, coriander seeds, turmeric root, ginger root, cinnamon bark and cloves. Different spice combinations vary in color and flavor. They are sold for various types of curries—meat, fish or chicken. Use an all-purpose blend if a specific curry powder is not available.

Dried shrimp paste, also known as belachan is a dense mixture of fermented ground shrimp that must be toasted before use—either wrapped in foil and dry-roasted or toasted over a gas flame on the tip of a metal skewer or back of a spoon.

Fennel seeds look like cumin seeds but are larger and paler. They add a sweet fragrance to Indian dishes, with a flavor similar to liquorice or anise. The seeds are used whole or ground.

Fish sauce is made from salted, fermented fish or shrimp. Good quality fish sauce is golden-brown in color and has a salty tang. It is available in bottles in most supermarkets.

Five Spice Powder is a highly aromatic blend of Sichuan pepper, cinnamon, clove, fennel and star anise, ground to a fine powder.

Galangal is similar in appearance to ginger and a member of the same family. This aromatic root has a distinctive flavor that is used in dishes throughout Asia. Dried galangal lacks the fragrance of fresh galangal, so try to buy it fresh. It can be sliced and kept sealed in the freezer for several months.

Garlic chives or gu cai, also known as Chinese chives, have long, green flat leaves that resemble thin green onions. They have a strong garlicky flavor and are often added to noodle or stir-fried vegetable dishes during the final stages of cooking. If you cannot get them, use green onions or regular chives instead.

Green onions, also known as scallions, have slender stalks with dark green leaves and white bases. They are sliced and sprinkled generously on soups and other dishes as a garnish.

Kaffir lime leaves are used in soups and curries of Thai, Malay or Indonesian origin. They are also thinly sliced and used as a garnish. Buy them fresh, frozen or dried—fresh or frozen leaves are much more fragrant.

Lemongrass is a highly aromatic herb stalk. The tough outer layers of the stem should be peeled away and only the pale, inner flesh of the thick lower part of the stalk is used.

Mustard seeds are small brownish-black seeds that are commonly used in Indian cooking, imparting a nutty flavor to dishes.

Noodles are a universal favorite in Asia. Both fresh and dried noodles are made from either wheat, rice or mung bean flour. Fresh yellow wheat noodles are thick, spaghetti-like noodles made from wheat flour and egg. Substitute fresh spaghetti or fettucini if you cannot find them. Dried rice vermicelli has very fine rice threads that must be plunged into hot water to soften before use. Rice stick noodles (also known as “river noodles”, kway teow or hofun) are wide, flat rice noodles sold fresh in Asian markets. If not available, use dried rice stick noodles instead.

Tofu or bean curd comes in various forms. Soft tofu is silky and smooth but difficult to cook because it falls apart. Firm tofu holds its shape well when cut or cooked and has a strong, slightly sour taste. Pressed tofu is firm tofu that has been compressed to expel most of the moisture. Tofu skin is the dried skin that forms on top of boiling soy milk; it is dried and sold in sheets as a wrapper, or as tau fu kee, a dried twisted tofu skin added to meat or vegetable dishes.

Oyster sauce is a soy-based sauce with oyster extract. Vegetarians should look for a version sold as “mushroom oyster sauce”

Palm sugar is made from the distilled juice of various palm fruits and varies in color from golden to dark brown. It has a rich flavor similar to dark brown sugar or maple syrup, which makes a good substitute.

Rice wine is frequently used in Chinese cooking. Japanese sake, mirin or a dry sherry may be used as substitutes.

Sesame Oil is extracted from sesame seeds that have been toasted, producing a dark, dense and highly aromatic oil that can be used for marinades, sauces and soups, or as a table condiment. Its nutty, smokey flavor has become a hallmark of north Asian cuisine.

Shallots are small, round onions with thin red skins that add a sweet oniony flavor to countless dishes. They are added to spice pastes or sliced, deep-fried and used as garnish.

Sichuan peppercorns, also known as Chinese pepper or flower pepper (hua jiao), have a sharp pungency that tingles and slightly numbs the lips and tongue, an effect known in Chinese as ma la “numb hot”. To obtain ground Sichuan pepper, simply dry-roast Sichuan pepper-corns in a dry pan, then grind to a fine powder.

Soy sauce is a fermented sauce brewed from soybeans, water, wheat and salt. Regular or light soy sauce is very salty and used as a table dip and cooking seasoning. Dark soy sauce is denser and less salty and adds a smoky flavor to dishes. Sweet soy sauce is a thick, fragrant sauce used in marinades and sauces.

Tamarind is the fruit of the tamarind tree seed pot. The dried pulp is sold in packets or jars and generally still has some seeds and pod fibers mixed in. It is used as a souring agent in many dishes. To obtain tamarind juice, soak the pulp in warm water for 5 minutes, mash well and then strain and discard the seeds and fibers.

Wood ear mushrooms have very little flavor and are added to dishes for their crunchy texture and as a meat substitute. They are sold dried in plastic packets in most Asian supermarkets and comes in small, crinkly sheets. Soak them in water before using. Wash well and discard any hard bits in the center of the larger pieces.

Sambal Belachan (Shrimp Paste Chili Sauce)

3 red finger-length chilies, deseeded

1 tablespoon dried shrimp paste (belachan), roasted

1 teaspoon sugar

¹/₃ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon lime juice

Grind the chilies and belachan in a mortar. Then add the sugar, salt and lime juice, and mix well. Serve in small bowls with Black Sauce Hokkien Noodles (page 54).

Thai Red Curry Paste

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

5 dried red chilies, deseeded and soaked in hot water for 15 minutes

3 tablespoons sliced shallots

8 cloves garlic, smashed 2-3 thin slices galangal

2 tablespoons sliced lemongrass (tender inner part of bottom third only)

2 teaspoons grated kaffir lime rind

1 tablespoon chopped coriander roots

10 black peppercorns

1 teaspoon dried shrimp paste (belachan), roasted

Dry-fry the coriander and cumin seeds in a wok or frying pan over low heat for about 5 minutes, then grind to a powder in a blender. Add the remaining ingredients, except the shrimp paste, and grind well. Add the shrimp paste and grind again to obtain about ³/₃ cup (180 ml) of fine-textured curry paste.