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Basic Thai Ingredients

Chinese celery is much smaller with thinner stems than the normal Western variety and has a very intense, parsley-like flavor. The leaves and sometimes the stems are added to soups, rice dishes and stir-fried vegetables.

Chilies come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Fresh finger-length chilies are moderately hot. Tiny bird's-eye chilies are fiery hot. Dried chilies are usually cut into lengths and soaked in warm water to soften before use. Chili oil is made from dried chilies that are steeped in oil. Bottled chili oil and chili sauces are also available from Asian markets.

Coconut milk can be bought fresh from local markets and is also available canned and in packets. It comes in varying consistencies and you will need to adjust the thickness by adding water as needed. In general, you should add 1 cup of water to 1 cup of canned or packet coconut cream to obtain thick coconut milk, and 2 cups of water to 1 cup of coconut cream to obtain thin coconut milk.

Coriander is an indispensable herb and spice in Thai cooking. Coriander seeds are roasted and then ground in spice pastes. Coriander roots are used in the same way, while coriander leaves (also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley) are used as a herb and a garnish.

Dried prawns are tiny, orange prawns that have been dried in the sun. They come in different sizes. Available in Asian markets, they should be orangy-pink and plump; avoid any with a grayish appearance or an unpleasant smell. Dried prawns will keep for several months.

Dried shrimp paste, which is called kapee in Thai and is known as belachan in Singapore and Malaysia, is a dense mixture of fermented ground shrimp that must be toasted before use—either wrapped in foil and dry-roasted in a pan or toasted over a gas flame. It is sold in dried blocks wrapped in paper or plastic in most Asian food stores.

Fish sauce is made from salted, fermented fish or shrimp. Good quality fish sauce is golden-brown in color and has a salty tang. It is available in bottles in most supermarkets.

Galangal (lengkuas) is an aromatic root that is similar in appearance to ginger and a member of the same family. It adds a distinct flavor to Thai curries, and many stores now sell it fresh. It can be sliced and kept sealed in the freezer for several months.

Glass noodles, also known as cellophane or bean thread noodles, are thin, clear strands made from mung bean starch and water. They are sold in dried form and must be soaked in warm water for 15 minutes to soften.

Kaffir limes are small limes with a very rough and intensely fragrant skin, but virtually no juice. The skin or rind is often grated and used as a seasoning. Fragrant kaffir lime leaves are added whole to soups and curries or finely shredded and added to salads or deep-fried fish cakes, giving a wonderfully citrussy flavor to these dishes. They are available frozen or dried in Asian food stores; frozen leaves are much more flavorful than dried ones.

Palm sugar is made from the distilled juice of various palm fruits and varies in color from golden to dark brown. It has a rich flavor similar to dark brown sugar or maple syrup, which make good substitutes.

Mushrooms are prized in Thai cooking for the flavor and texture they add to dishes. Fresh mushrooms of several varieties are used in this book: button mushrooms and dried black Chinese mushrooms (similar to Japanese shiitake mushrooms, which may also be used) which must be soaked in warm water to soften before use. Oyster mushrooms are fan-shaped mushrooms that are usually white or grayish-brown in color. They grow in clusters and are sometimes known as abalone mushrooms.

Oyster Mushroom Soup in Coconut Milk

400 ml (1²/₃ cups) coconut milk

600 ml (2¹/₃ cups) water

10 thin slices galangal root

2 stalks lemongrass, tender inner part of bottom third only, crushed and cut into lengths

4 kaffir lime leaves, torn into pieces

3 coriander roots, crushed

1 teaspoon salt

300 g (10 oz) oyster mushrooms, cleaned and shredded by hand

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 tablespoons freshly-squeezed lime juice

1 sprig fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped

5 red finger-length chilies, or more if desired, crushed

1 Combine the coconut milk, water, galangal, lemon-grass, kaffir lime leaves, coriander roots and salt in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat.

2 Add the mushrooms and cook for a further 3 to 4 minutes, stirring once or twice to prevent curdling. Stir in the fish sauce, lime juice, fresh coriander leaves and chilies. Serve hot.

The texture of oyster mushrooms resembles chicken. To serve this dish for a light lunch, add some cooked rice to the soup.

Serves 4

Preparation time: 10 mins

Cooking time: 10 mins

Spicy Vegetable Soup with Lemon Basil

2 shallots, sliced

1 teaspoon white peppercorns

4 tablespoons dried prawns, soaked for 20 minutes

2 tablespoons sliced lesser galangal

2 teaspoons dried shrimp paste (belachan)

1 teaspoon salt

2 liters (8 cups) chicken stock or water

115 g (1 cup) pumpkin meat, skinned and sliced

1 young squash, such as sponge gourd, courgette (zucchini), or butternut, cut into chunks

150 g (1 cup) sliced fresh black Chinese mushrooms

8 ears baby corn (about 180 g/6 oz), halved

300 g (4 cups) leafy vegetables, such as spinach, young pumpkin leaves or kale

80 g (2 cups) fresh lemon basil leaves (substitute sweet basil)

1 Using a pestle and mortar, pound the shallots, peppercorns, dried prawns, lesser galangal, dried shrimp paste and salt until fine.

2 Place the stock or water in a stockpot, add the paste, and bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat. Add the pumpkin and cook until the pumpkin begins to soften, about 10 minutes. Then add the remaining vegetables and the basil leaves. When the soup boils again, remove from the heat and serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8

Preparation time: 40 mins

Cooking time: 10 mins

Hot and Sour Prawn and Lemongrass Soup (Tom Yam Goong)

1½ liters (6 cups) chicken stock or 2 to 3 chicken stock cubes dissolved in 1½ liters (6 cups) hot water

500 g (1 lb) fresh prawns, peeled and deveined, tails intact, shells reserved

2 stalks lemongrass, tender inner part of bottom third only, bruised

3 slices galangal root

1 tablespoon crushed coriander roots

3 kaffir lime leaves, torn into small pieces

150 g (1½ cups) fresh or canned button mushrooms, thinly sliced to yield about 1 cup

1 medium tomato, cut into wedges

1 tablespoon Thai Chili Paste (nam prik pod) (page 59) or 1 tablespoon thinly sliced red finger-length chilies

3 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon tamarind pulp soaked in 2 tablespoons water, mashed and strained to obtain the juice

3 tablespoons freshly-squeezed lime or lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

1 spring onion, sliced

Few sprigs coriander leaves, minced

1 Boil the chicken stock and prawn shells in a large saucepan or stockpot over medium heat for about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain the stock; discard the shells.

2 Bring the clear stock, lemongrass, galangal, coriander roots and kaffir lime leaves to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer uncovered for about 5 minutes, then add the prawns, button mushrooms and tomato, and continue to simmer until the prawns turn pink and are just cooked, 2 to 3 minutes. Do not overcook the prawns. Remove from the heat, stir in all the other ingredients and mix well, adjusting the seasonings by adding more fish sauce, tamarind or lime juice if desired.

3 Serve hot in individual serving bowls.

You may use sliced fish, squid and mussels in this very popular hot and sour soup. If tamarind is not available, increase the amount of lime or lemon juice to 5 tablespoons.

Serves 4 to 6.

Preparation time: 20 mins

Cooking time: 20 mins

Rice Soup with Fish (Khao Tom Pla)

2 tablespoons oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1½ liters (6 cups) chicken stock or 2 to 3 chicken stock cubes dissolved in 1½ liters (6 cups) hot water

3 slices galangal root

1 tablespoon minced Chinese pickled cabbage (tang chye) (optional)

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

300 g (3 cups) cooked rice

500 g (1 lb) fresh fish fillets (red snapper, flounder or salmon), cut into bite-sized pieces

1 stalk celery, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 spring onions, thinly sliced

Few sprigs coriander leaves, minced

1 portion Pickled Green Chilies (see below), to serve

1 Heat the oil in a wok or skillet over medium heat and stir-fry the garlic until fragrant and golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.

2 Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a large saucepan or stockpot over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, add the galangal and Chinese pickled cabbage (tang chye), season with the salt and pepper, and simmer for about 7 minutes. Add the rice and bring the mixture to a boil. Add the fish pieces and simmer for about 5 minutes until cooked. Finally stir in the celery and fish sauce, and remove from the heat.

3 Serve hot in individual serving bowls, garnished with Crispy Fried Garlic (see note), spring onion and coriander leaves, with the Pickled Green Chilies on the side.

Crispy Fried Garlic or Crispy Fried Shallots are readily available in packets or jars in most supermarkets and Asian food stores. To make them at home, thinly slice several cloves of garlic or shallots as desired and stir-fry in hot oil over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until golden brown and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Chinese pickled cabbage, also known as tang chye, consists of beige-brown bits of salted and seasoned cabbage leaves. These are sold in plastic or cellophane packs and are used as a flavoring, mainly for soups and noodle dishes.

Serves 4 to 6

Preparation time: 20 mins

Cooking time: 25 mins

Pickled Green Chilies

3 to 4 green finger-length chilies, deseeded and sliced

60 ml (¼ cup) vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

Combine all the ingredients in a serving bowl and mix well.

Makes ½ cup

Preparation time: 5 mins

Fish Soup with Tamarind and Ginger (Tom Som Pla)

1 teaspoon white peppercorns

2 shallots, sliced

3 coriander roots

1½ liters (6 cups) water

500 g (1 lb) fresh fish fillets (red snapper, sea bass or flounder), cut into bite-sized pieces

5 cm (2 in) fresh young ginger root, peeled and cut into thin shreds to yield about ¼ cup

3 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons tamarind pulp soaked in 60 ml (¼ cup) water, mashed and strained to obtain the juice

3 tablespoons shaved palm sugar or dark brown sugar

1 spring onion, cut into lengths