Читать книгу The GR20 Corsica - Paddy Dillon - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Tents for hire, dotted around the Bergeries de Vaccaghja (Stage 6)
There is no doubt that the GR20, traversing the rugged mountains of Corsica, is one of the top trails of the world. Its reputation precedes it, and most who trek the route describe it afterwards as one of the toughest they have ever completed. Others find they are unable to complete it, having seriously underestimated its nature. The GR20 climbs high into the mountains and stays there for days on end, leading ordinary trekkers deep into the sort of terrain usually visited only by mountaineers. The scenery is awe-inspiring, with bare rock and sheer cliffs in some parts, contrasting with forests, lakes and alpine pastures in other places. Those who walk the route are only too eager to share their experiences with those who haven’t, so that everyone who completes the GR20 is probably responsible for two or three more people trekking it. It has been estimated that as many as 30,000 people trek the route each year!
Most people would relish the opportunity to trek through wild mountains, feeling the roughness of the rocks with their fingers, enjoying the clarity of the views under a blazing Mediterranean sun, maybe enlivened with streaks of snow on the higher slopes. There is the perfumed scent of the maquis, and the chance to spot eagles in flight. You can do all this, provided you keep an eye on the weather, since Corsica is noted for severe summer thunderstorms, while in winter the mountains are truly alpine. There is the prospect of sleeping in rustic refuges, or even better, sleeping under canvas, peeping out to discover the mountains bathed in moonlight. On moonless nights, you can gaze awe-struck at the firmament speckled with millions of pinprick stars. You can enjoy all this and more provided you make careful plans and walk within your limits.
The GR20 is an experience, more than simply a trek, and those who try and rush the route may find they finish with certain regrets. While the ‘classic’ route can be covered in a fortnight, discerning trekkers will be happy to include variations – maybe climbing some of the nearby mountains, or visiting nearby villages. The main route allows little opportunity to meet ordinary Corsicans, but a detour into a village, or better still, a night or two spent with a Corsican family, will enhance the quality of the trek. Take the time to sample local foodstuffs, including the meat and cheese produced in the mountains, maybe washed down with a homemade wine, but always be aware of where your next fill up of water is available. Corsican food is generally simple and wholesome – ideal for a trek through the mountains, and all part of the joy of travel!
Geology
Corsica is often referred to as ‘the Granite Isle’, and it is easy to dismiss the whole island simply as one enormous granite massif, but this would be wrong. Corsica is geologically divided into two parts by a line running very roughly from Île Rousse on the north coast, through Corte in the middle of the island, to Favone on the east coast.
Everything west of this line is referred to as ‘Hercynian Corsica’, named after a mountain-building era that occurred between 345 and 225 million years ago. The bedrock in this, the greater part of Corsica, is essentially a massive granite intrusion. It was pushed into the Earth’s crust under immense pressure and temperature, so that the rock was in a molten state. As it cooled over a long period of time, coarse crystals formed, chiefly of quartz, feldspar and mica. Geologists sub-divide the granite according to its mineral composition, which varies from place to place, especially around the northwest of the island. Granophyres and quartz porphyries are common, and conspicuous linear dykes have been intruded into some rocks. The mountains that were raised during the Hercynian era are long gone, and the granite mountains of Corsica are merely their deepest roots.
Everything east of the dividing line is referred to as ‘Alpine Corsica’, simply because the rock types were pushed up during the later era of mountain building that was associated with the creation of the Alps. There are several rock types, including schists of uncertain age that have been folded and metamorphosed time and again. There are also layers of limestone and sedimentary rocks that were formed on the seabed, before buckling under immense pressure to form mountains. Fossils contained in these rocks reveal that they were formed in the Upper Carboniferous, Liassic and Eocene periods – with respective ages from around 300, 150 and 50 million years ago.
The Ice Age, which ended only around 10,000 years ago, had a profound effect on the mountains of Corsica. The mountains were high enough to ensure that snow never melted from year to year, but increased in depth so that glaciers could form, grinding out deep corries and carving steep-sided valleys into the mountainsides. During a much wetter period than at present, powerful rivers scoured the valleys deeper, and spread fans of alluvial rubble further downstream, and around the coast. During harsh winters in the mountains, conditions are again reminiscent of the Ice Age, when the high corrie lakes freeze completely and deep snowdrifts are heaped up against the cliffs. By the time Man discovered Corsica, the island valleys were well wooded, although parts of the coast and the high mountains were bare rock, much as they are today.
Brief history
Those who trek the GR20 may feel that they are completely bypassing anything of historical interest on Corsica. Transhumance, the seasonal movement of livestock to summer pastures in the mountains, followed by a retreat to the low ground before the onset of winter, has been practised in Corsica for thousands of years. The island has been invaded dozens of times by all kinds of armies, and native Corsicans have often fought to resist each successive attempt at colonisation. However, high in the mountains, there are few ancient monuments or proud fortifications, nor are there any museums to visit. The GR20 is essentially a tough mountain trek almost completely divorced from the history and culture of the island. History, by and large, was wrought elsewhere on the island, and the best you can do is at least be aware of some of the key events and turbulent times that Corsica has experienced.
| 7000 BC | The first human settlers probably reached Corsica from Tuscany during the Palaeolithic era. They were hunter/gatherers who lived in caves and other natural shelters, using only basic stone tools and items of pottery. |
| 6600 BC | ‘Bonifacio Woman’, a Neolithic woman whose skeleton was discovered near Bonifacio, is the earliest human being discovered on Corsica. Soon afterwards, people began the tradition of transhumance, involving the seasonal movement of animals to summer pastures in the mountains, retreating to the coast and lower valleys in the winter. As semi-nomads, shepherds and herdsmen built themselves temporary shelters. |
| 4000 BC | The climax of the Megalithic era, during which huge stone monuments, menhirs and dolmens, were raised around the island. Human society was clearly well organised to enable people to build such structures, and the period of construction spanned several centuries. |
| 1500 BC | Invaders known as the Toréens, named after the stone towers they erected, landed at Porto Vecchio and gradually spread through Corsica. The earlier inhabitants, however, continued to raise their own stone monuments even into the Iron Age. |
| 565 BC | Greek refugees from Phocaea established a colony at Alalia, where Aléria now stands. They were traders who planted olives and vines, but were troubled by attacking Carthaginians and Etruscans. |
| 535 BC | The Greeks abandoned their colony, and the Etruscans who occupied the site were later displaced by the Carthaginians. |
| 259 BC | Roman soldiers were sent to Corsica to prevent the Carthaginians advancing through the Mediterranean. Native Corsicans joined forces with the Carthaginians to hold the Romans at bay, so the Roman conquest took 40 years to subdue the island. Roman power remained dominant for over 500 years, and while ports were constructed, little change took place in the interior. The Roman strategy was essentially to prevent any other power from occupying the island, which was conveniently close to Rome. |
| 303 AD | Christianity had been brought to Corsica, and the beheading of Santa Restituda gave the island its first Christian martyr. As the Roman empire began to wane, Vandals began to raid coastal settlements and were well established on the island in the middle of the 5th century. |
| 534 AD | Byzantine forces launched an invasion of Corsica and made it part of their empire. However, they in turn suffered a series of raids, notably from the Ostrogoths, and later from the Lombards. |
| 725 AD | The Lombards took control of Corsica, but by this time the Saracens were sending raiding parties to the island, harrying coastal settlements. |
| 754 AD | Pépin le Bref, King of the Franks, offered to give Corsica to the Pope after freeing it from Lombard control. The process took 20 years, and it was Pépin’s son, Charlemagne, who finally handed the island to the Pope. However, the Saracens continued raiding the island and at times almost completely overran it. |
| 825 AD | Ugo della Colonna is reputed to have driven the Saracens from Corsica at the request of the Pope, but tales are legendary and it is difficult to separate the man from the myth. Seigneurial families, who were split by long-standing rivalries, dominated life on the island. The feudal system ensured that common folk were treated quite harshly, leading to some internal conflicts. |
| 1077 | The Pope appointed the Bishop of Pisa to administer Corsica, and for a time the island enjoyed a period of peace. |
| 1133 | The Genoese, who were rivals to the Pisans, successfully lobbied the Pope for a share of Corsica, and the island was divided between Pisa and Genoa. The Genoese gradually undermined Pisan control on the island. |
| 1284 | The Genoese finally defeated the Pisans at the Battle of Meloria, and began to erect considerable fortifications around Corsica. Resentment was rife, as many Corsicans were simply evicted from their properties and forced into servitude. The Pope handed Corsica and Sardinia to the Aragonese, but the Genoese refused to relinquish control, setting the scene for decades of conflict. |
| 1420 | An Aragonese force managed to take control of most of Corsica and a Viceroy ruled the island until 1434, when the Genoese beheaded him. |
| 1453 | The Genoese appointed a powerful financial body, the Office de St Georges, to administer Corsica. They installed a military regime, strengthened fortifications around the island, developed agriculture and raised taxes. |
| 1553 | Corsica was invaded by French troops, in which a colonel called Sampiero Corso, also known as ‘The Fiery’, and ‘the Most Corsican of Corsicans’, scored notable victories over the Genoese. Although Corsica was regarded then as a French possession, it was handed back to the Genoese under the Treaty of Cateau-Cambrésis. Sampiero Corso made another bid at conquest in 1564, but this was ultimately unsuccessful. The Genoese remained troubled by Saracen raids and therefore further strengthened the fortifications around the island. The lot of common Corsicans remained dire. |
| 1730 | When an old man refused to pay his taxes, increasing numbers of Corsicans joined him in refusing to pay theirs also, and this led to a rebellion against Genoese rule. In 1732, Austrian soldiers were dispatched to the island to restore order, and were soundly defeated at the Battle of Calenzana. The Genoese, however, quickly and brutally regained control. |
| 1736 | Obviously in need of a leader, many Corsicans flocked to support a German adventurer called Théodore de Neuhoff, who was proclaimed Théodore I, King of Corsica. Although he promised military support against the Genoese, it was not forthcoming, and Corsicans had to struggle on by themselves against their brutal colonisers. |
| 1738 | The Genoese accepted an offer of military assistance from the French. By 1741, the French considered that they had put down the rebellion and departed, only to return when trouble flared up again in 1748. |
| 1754 | Pascal Paoli, one of the most famous names in Corsican history, led a rebellion that briefly allowed a Corsican state to be established from 1755 to 1769, with its centre of control in the mountain citadel of Corte. Democracy, education and justice were central to Paoli’s administration, but the Genoese again looked to France to regain control over the island. In the event, the French ended up taking control of Corsica away from both the Genoese and native Corsicans. |
| 1769 | The beginning of French rule in Corsica was followed closely by the French Revolution, which was wholeheartedly supported by Corsicans. Pascal Paoli enjoyed a brief period of favour with the French, and when he lost their favour, Corsicans proclaimed him ‘Father of the Nation’. |
| 1794 | A British force attacked Calvi, where Nelson lost his eye, and an Anglo–Corsican state was proclaimed. Sir Gilbert Elliot was installed as viceroy, angering supporters of Paoli. Some Paoli supporters later joined forces with the French, so that the British eventually departed from Corsica. |
| 1796 | French rule was restored on the island, but there was widespread discontent, even though a famous son of Corsica, Napoleon Bonaparte, was crowned Emperor in 1804. It seems that Napoleon did little for his native island, and prevented native Corsicans from taking positions of control. |
| 1801 | Corsica found itself under military rule under General Morand, followed in 1811 by General César Berthier. |
| 1814 | British soldiers responded to an appeal from the inhabitants of Bastia, but were quickly withdrawn from Corsica following the abdication of Napoleon. |
| 1815 | Corsica’s establishments and infrastructure were improved, with the construction of roads and a railway, schools and industry, but this did little to stem massive emigration from the island. In fact, Corsica’s population was halved, and the island had a reputation as a place of crime and violence. |
| 1909 | A plan was proposed for the development of Corsica, but this suffered a setback due to the First World War. Thousands of Corsican soldiers enlisted in the army and died in battle, cutting further into the island’s population. |
| 1940 | Mussolini had been interested in Corsica for some time, before helping to land some 90,000 Fascist and Nazi troops on the island. Many Corsicans waged a guerrilla war on the occupiers, coining the term ‘Maquis’ for the Resistance, after the impenetrable scrub covering much of the island. The Allies armed the guerrillas by dropping caches of weapons in remote parts on the island. At the end of the war, the Americans sprayed DDT on the island to rid it of malaria-carrying mosquitoes that had affected it for thousands of years. |
| 1962 | The ‘events in Aléria’, as they came to be known, started with pieds-noirs Algerians and a scandal in wine-making processes, and ended with a militant Corsican sit-in and the deaths of two policemen. Discontent had been brewing for some time around the island, and indeed, had its roots in centuries of domination and oppression. Corsican nationalism took on many forms, from street protests and political posturing, to crime and assassination, with bombing campaigns throughout the 1970s. Calls for autonomy have at least resulted in the Collectivité Territoriale de Corse having a distinct language and culture of its own, and a greater control over its affairs than any other region of France. |
| 1970 | Under the direction of Michel Fabrikant, surveys were made to determine the course of a mountainous route that would become the GR20. |
| 1972 | The Parc Naturel Régional de Corse (PNRC) was established, covering most of the high mountains and almost 40% of the island. The first refuges were established along the GR20. |
| 2001 | The French government gave Corsica limited autonomy, but this was later declared to be unconstitutional and was withdrawn. |
| 2003 | A plan for greater Corsican autonomy was put to the vote in a referendum, but was narrowly defeated by 51% to 49%. |
| 2013 | The Tour de France started in Corsica for the first time in its history. |
| 2014 | The GR20 was run non-stop in a record 32 hours by Guillaume Peretti. |
| 2015 | A landslide in the Cirque de la Solitude killed seven trekkers and resulted in the closure of that part of the route. |
| 2016 | All aids, including markers, were removed from the Cirque de la Solitude. The GR20 route now passes over the shoulder of Monte Cinto. |
A turbulent history indeed, and one that is set to run and run. It is a great pity that trekkers on the GR20 will barely be aware of any of it!
Getting to Corsica
Corsica can be reached by regular flights or ferries, while more adventurous travellers might consider an overland approach through Europe using long-distance trains or coaches. Getting to Corsica is considerably easier than getting around Corsica, so choose an entry point that has good connections with the GR20, and ensure that on completion of the trek, it will be possible to reach your exit point in good time. It is wise to build in a couple of extra days in case of any ferry or flight delays, or in case inclement weather or fatigue cause alterations to your original carefully planned trekking schedule.
See Appendix E, Useful contacts, for a list of overland and air transport operators.
By air
By far the easiest way to reach Corsica is to fly, and there are four airports on the island – Bastia www.bastia.aeroport.fr, Calvi www.calvi.aeroport.fr, Ajaccio www.2a.cci.fr, and Figari www.2a.cci.fr/Aeroport-Figari-Sud-Corse.html. All four airports are served by Air France www.airfrance.com and Air Corsica www.aircorsica.com, but only from mainland France. Airlines with direct services from Britain to Corsica are available. Easyjet, www.easyjet.com, flies from London Gatwick to Bastia, Ajaccio and Figari, as well as from Manchester to Bastia. Flybe, www.flybe.com, flies from Birmingham and Southampton to Bastia. Charter flights are also available. A number of airlines fly direct to Corsica from a handful of European countries. Ryanair, www.ryanair.com, flies from France. Lufthansa, www.lufthansa.com, Germanwings, www.germanwings.com, and Air Berlin, www.airberlin.com, fly from Germany. When choosing a flight, it might be tempting to land at Calvi, because it is close to the start of the GR20 at Calenzana, but returning to Calvi from Conca takes a long time.
Looking to the jagged peaks beside the Bocca a e Porte from the rocky shore of Lac de Capitellu (Link from Bocca a Soglia to Bergeries de Grotelle)
By road and rail
Those travelling overland through France by car, coach or train will find that ports such as Nice or Marseille provide the most straightforward ferry connections to Corsica. Check with Eurolines, www.eurolines.com, or Eurostar, www.eurostar.com, to find good coach or rail connections to the ports. Travelling overland to Nice or Marseille to catch an onward Air Corsica, www.aircorsica.com, flight to Corsica could also be considered.
By sea
Ferries from ports such as Nice and Marseille serve the four main Corsican ports of Ajaccio, Bastia, Calvi and Porto Vecchio, but some ferries serve Île Rousse and Propriano. There are also ferries to Corsica from other ports in France and Italy. When linking overland travel with ferry timetables, be sure to check schedules and timetables carefully, with due regard to check-in times, to ensure a smooth transfer. The main ferry operators are SNCM, www.sncm.fr, La Méridionale, www.lameridionale.fr and Corsica Ferries, www.corsicaferries.biz. Two minor operators are Moby Lines, www.moby.it and Saremar, www.saremar.it.
Taking or hiring a car
Taking a car to Corsica is not a particularly good idea, except for back-up purposes, and even then its use will be limited. Apart from the beginning and end of the GR20, the route is accessible at only seven other points for vehicles. Trekkers would take time to reach all those points, while the back-up driver would need to pursue other interests for the days between each meeting point. Cars can be hired at the airports and ferryports.
Getting around Corsica
By train
Travel by train is remarkably simple. There is in effect one line between Ajaccio and Bastia, with a branch line running to Calvi. The junction is at Ponte Leccia, and the railway crosses the course of the GR20 at its midpoint at Vizzavona. The line is operated by Chemins de Fer de La Corse, www.cf-corse.fr. There is no harm picking up a timetable whether you plan to use the railway or not. Stations can be contacted as follows: Ajaccio 04 95 23 11 03, Bastia 04 95 32 80 61, Calvi 04 95 65 00 61, Corte 04 95 46 00 97, and Île Rousse 04 95 60 00 50.
Bear in mind that one timetable covers the peak summer period, while other timetables flank it, and yet another covers the winter period. Check the dates that timetables are valid, as they could change during the course of a trek along the GR20. On a daily basis, most trains operate from Monday to Friday, with variations on Saturday, and very few services on Sunday. Some small country halts are request stops, so use a hand signal to stop a train, or if already on the train, tell the conductor in good time to stop.
By bus
If travelling by bus, it is essential to check and double-check timetables. There are several bus operators, but some services operate only run in July and August, and there is no central authority issuing information. A useful website is www.corsicabus.org, which attempts to gather all services and timetables into a single place.
When you wish to catch a bus, be sure to turn up early and ask someone exactly where the departure point for the bus is located, as bus stops are rare. Bear in mind that some buses look very plain, and it may not be immediately obvious that they are being used for public transport. Most coaches are comfortable and air-conditioned, but some services are operated using more basic minibuses.
Buses usually leave on time, but delays are commonplace, so beware if you are trying to achieve a fairly tight connection somewhere along the way. Individual bus services and contact details are mentioned as appropriate throughout this guidebook. Some short shuttle-bus services are referred to as navettes, and this term is also used for complimentary transport offered by accommodation providers.
By taxi
Taxis are available at all the airports and ports, in all the main towns, and in many villages and rural locations. The telephone numbers of certain taxi companies and individuals are given throughout this guidebook, since they may offer the only chance to reach or leave some of the places along or near the GR20. Fares may be metered or fixed, although you may be able to agree a price. Most drivers charge extra in the evenings and on Sundays, and there may be a small charge for your baggage too.
For short journeys, when you want to keep moving, a taxi is good value, but for a long transfer round the island, it will be very, very expensive. Bear in mind that on a long journey, you may have to contribute towards the driver’s long journey home. A general rule of thumb is that a long taxi journey will cost ten times more than the bus fare.
Getting to the GR20
Calvi has an airport and a ferryport close to the northern end of the GR20
From Calvi
Simply leave the airport and grab the first available taxi. Ask to be taken to Calenzana. One look at your pack and the driver will guess you are heading for the GR20. He may refer to the route with a word that sounds like jairvan – get used to the sound! If you have already arranged accommodation in Calenzana, leave it to the driver to take you there. The telephone numbers of some of the taxi drivers are given in the section about Calenzana.
If reaching Calvi by ferry, either take a taxi to Calenzana, or wait for the once-a-day bus in July and August, operated by Beaux Voyages, tel 04 95 65 11 35 or 04 95 65 08 26, www.corsicar.com. This bus only operates on schooldays for the rest of the year. Buses, taxis and trains all operate close to the Place de la Porteuse d’Eau, which is near the railway station in Calvi and only a short walk from the port. If only trekking half of the GR20, north or south from Vizzavona, then it is easy to catch the train, tel Calvi 04 95 65 00 61, www.cf-corse.fr. Calvi tourist information office is nearby at Port de Plaisance, tel 04 95 65 16 67, www.balagne.corsica.com.
From Bastia
There are daily buses between the airport and Bastia, operated by the Société des Autobus Bastiais, tel 04 95 31 06 65, www.bastiabus.com. Alternatively, use Les Taxis de l’Aéroport, tel 04 95 36 04 65, www.corsica-taxis.com. Buses from Bastia to Calvi run daily from late June to early September, then weekdays for the rest of the year, and are operated by Beaux Voyages, tel 04 95 65 11 35 or 04 95 65 08 26, www.corsicar.com. Use Les Rapides Bleus Corsicatours, tel 04 95 31 03 79, www.rapides-bleus.com, to reach Ste Lucie de Porto Vecchio for Conca, if trekking the GR20 south to north. Buses run daily from mid-June to mid-September, but not on Sundays for the rest of the year. In July and August the bus also serves Bastia airport.
Trains run daily from Bastia to Calvi, Vizzavona and Ajaccio, tel Bastia 04 95 32 80 61, www.cf-corse.fr. A short taxi ride from the airport to nearby Casamozza might allow you to catch a bus or train that has already departed south from Bastia. If arriving by ferry to Bastia, a short walk straight inland from the ferry terminal leads to the bus terminus, behind the mairie, and railway station. Bastia tourist information office is on the Place St Nicolas, tel 04 95 54 20 40, www.bastia-tourisme.com.
From Ajaccio
There are daily buses between the airport and Ajaccio, operated by TCA, tel 04 95 23 29 41, www.bus-tca.fr. Alternatively, use a taxi to get into town – there are several operators to choose from. Those arriving by ferry berth at the Gare Routière, which is a combined ferry and bus terminal. There are no direct buses from Ajaccio to Calvi or Bastia, so it may be best to catch a train, tel Ajaccio 04 95 23 11 03, www.cf-corse.fr. The railway station is only a few minutes’ walk along the Quai l’Herminier.
Buses serve places on the southern half of the GR20. Use Autocars Santoni, tel 04 95 22 64 44 or 04 95 24 51 56, to reach Zicavo and Cozzano, daily in July and August, but not on Sundays through the rest of the year. Use Autocars Balesi Evasion, tel 04 95 70 15 55, www.balesievasion.com, to reach Bavella and Porto Vecchio, daily through July and August, then only on Monday and Friday through the rest of the year. Use Alta Rocca Voyages, tel 04 95 51 08 19, www.alta-rocca-voyages-corse.fr, to reach Bavella, daily through July and August. Use Eurocorse Voyages, tel 04 95 21 06 30, www.eurocorse.com, to reach Porto Vecchio for onward travel to Conca, if trekking south to north, Monday to Saturday from July to mid-September. Ajaccio tourist information office is on Boulevard Roi Jérôme, tel 04 95 51 53 03, www.ajaccio-tourisme.com.
From Figari or Porto Vecchio
Those who arrive at Figari airport can catch the airport bus, operated by Transports Rossi, tel 04 95 71 00 11, or use a taxi, tel 06 17 77 37 96, to reach Porto Vecchio. If arriving by ferry, it is a simple matter to walk into Porto Vecchio to catch a bus. Use Les Rapides Bleus Corsicatours, tel 04 95 20 20 20, www.rapides-bleus.com, to cover the distance from Porto Vecchio to Ste Lucie de Porto Vecchio, if heading for Conca to trek the GR20 from south to north. (To reach Conca, contact the Gîte de La Tonnelle, tel 04 95 71 46 55, www.gite-la-tonnelle.com, which operates a navette between Ste Lucie and Conca.) Stay on the bus to Bastia for onward connections by bus or train. Use Autocars Balesi Evasion, tel 04 95 70 15 55, www.balesievasion.com, to reach Bavella and Ajaccio, daily through July and August, then only on Monday and Friday through the rest of the year. Use Eurocorse Voyages, tel 04 95 21 06 30, www.eurocorse.com, to reach Ajaccio for onward connections by bus or train, Monday to Saturday from July to mid-September. Porto Vecchio tourist information office is on the Rue Général Leclerc, tel 04 95 70 09 58, www.ot-portovecchio.com.
To and from the GR20
A handful of roads cross the GR20, and some of them offer transport links. Contact numbers for trains, buses and taxis are given at appropriate points along the course of the GR20 in this guidebook. Some nearby villages may also offer transport links, and where these are available they are noted in the guidebook. Note that there are very few buses running on Sundays, so check timetables carefully or contact the operators to confirm times and pick-up points.
When to trek
May
Trekking the GR20 is not recommended until at least the beginning of June, although it is sometimes possible to start in the middle of May. Last minute travel arrangements can be made if you hear that the route is clear of snow, but those who plan well in advance are taking a big chance, and deep snow could affect the higher parts of the route. The presence of snow and ice on particular parts of the route is usually mentioned on the PNRC blog, randoblogpnrc.blogspot.co.uk. An ice axe and crampons might be required, as well as the skills to use them properly.
Trekking at this time means that the PNRC refuges, although open, will not be staffed and therefore will have no food supplies. The water supply may be disconnected and there may be no fuel on the premises. Private bergeries may be locked and bolted. It will be necessary to carry most of your food, or it may be necessary to leave the route to obtain supplies. Bus services to and from the route will be fairly limited.
The picture on the left was taken towards the end of May and the GR20, up the gully, is heavily covered in snow; the one on the right was taken towards the end of July and the snow has gone
June
The PNRC refuges and private bergeries will all be fully staffed and in full operation. This used to be a quiet time to trek, but in recent years it has become very busy. The refuges will often be fully booked, and any hire tents pitched nearby might also be fully booked. Food supplies and cooked meals will be available at almost every overnight stop.
Bear in mind that some snow and ice will still be lurking in some of the more sunless gullies, and could pose problems early in the month. Days will be warm, but not too hot. Some bus services to and from the route might not be fully operational.
July and August
These are the peak summer months on the GR20. Expect large numbers of trekkers and expect the refuges and hire tents to be fully booked. All services are in full swing and it is easy to obtain food and drink along the way. Bear in mind that a few seasonal water sources dry up. Should it be necessary to leave or join the route at any point, the full range of summer bus services will be available.
This is also the hottest time of the year, with an increasing risk of afternoon thunderstorms. There have been devastating forest fires in the past around this time, closing parts of the route to trekkers.
September
This used to be a quiet time of year, when the numbers of trekkers reduced, but in recent years it has remained quite busy. The refuges will probably be fully booked, as may the hire tents, but as the month progresses it might be possible to stay indoors without an advance booking. Some of the bergeries offering food and drink may close, and some of the bus services to and from the route will be withdrawn. It is usual for the PNRC refuges to remain fully staffed and supplied with food to the end of the month.
The days are cooler than the peak summer season, but remain warm and clear. After June, this is the best month to trek.
October
The PNRC refuges remain open, but are unstaffed and have no food supplies. While fuel might be available, it is best not to rely on it, and the water supply might be disconnected to avoid frost damage. Private bergeries will be locked and bolted, and any small food stores along the route will probably be closed, so it will be necessary to carry food, or leave the route at intervals to obtain supplies. Very few bus services will be available, although the train through Vizzavona continues running.
Those who start the GR20 at the beginning of the month and aim to complete it by the middle of the month will experience cold nights and possibly frosts. After mid-October, snow could fall at any time. Snow obscures paths and waymarks, and when it accumulates on steep slopes, there is immediately a risk of avalanche. For ordinary trekkers, the route is closed throughout the winter, although ski-traverses are sometimes achieved.
How to trek
The main route
The most straightforward way to trek the GR20 is north to south, on the main red/white flashed waymarked trail from Calenzana to Conca, taking about two weeks to cover the distance. Be sure to build in a couple of spare days just in case they are needed. Note that whenever alternative routes are presented in this guide, the ‘A’ route is the main, or classic, route of the GR20.
GR20 nord
It is possible to trek the northern section of the trail from Calenzana to Vizzavona in just over a week, maybe nine or ten days, and experience the most rugged highlights of the route. For those who are confident of their abilities, this is worth considering if time is limited.
GR20 sud
Those who are wary of the level of difficulty involved on the higher parts could sample a week on the southern section from Vizzavona to Conca and reserve judgement on the northern section. This stretch also has its tough moments from time to time, so be warned!
South to north
Although most people trek the GR20 from north to south, experiencing the toughest sections first, it is also possible to trek from south to north, thereby gradually building up to the most rugged and spectacular parts of the route. An increasing number of trekkers now cover part of the GR20, or all of it, in this direction.
Alternatives
Note that there are sometimes high- and low-level alternatives along the way. This provides trekkers with a choice of route. Sometimes the main route is the low-level one, and sometimes the high-level route can be a bit easier than the low-level route. Alternative routes are fully described in this guidebook in exactly the same detail as the main route. Note that whenever alternative routes are presented in this guide, the ‘A’ route is the main route and the ‘B’ route is the variant.
Links
Trekkers who complete the whole of the GR20 sometimes regret that they didn’t visit some of the villages off-route. This guidebook includes off-route links with a handful of villages, so that at least a little Corsican culture can be enjoyed. These links also allow trekkers to leave the route if time is limited, with onward transport services mentioned.
Mountains
The hardiest enthusiasts could trek the whole of the GR20 and include a handful of mountain peaks along the way. Some of the prominent peaks close to the route can be climbed with a little scrambling. Those trekking the GR20 and climbing a few extra peaks should allow about three weeks. Details of the more popular extra ascents are given in this guidebook, including some of the highest mountains in Corsica.
Those who follow only the classic course of the GR20 often regret not visiting villages or climbing mountains. This is the summit of Monte Renosu (Stage 11, high-level)
Guided walking holidays
A number of companies offer guided treks along the GR20. Approach them with caution, as some operators require you to carry all your kit along the trail. Others may offer baggage transfers, but they may also require you to stay at places far off-route, missing some fine stretches of the GR20. In the north, some operators omit the high-level stages between Calenzana and the Refuge de Carozzu, passing through Bonifatu instead. At the southern end, they may not start and finish at Conca, but at Bavella. If you want to trek the full, classic GR20 as an organised trek, then be sure to question operators carefully to ensure that they are offering the sort of arrangements you really want.
Maps
The route of the GR20 is well marked throughout. While walking without maps can never be recommended, it is true to say that the waymarking is so good that trekkers might never need to refer to a map for directions. However, this would mean walking in complete isolation from the surroundings, never knowing the names of nearby mountains and valleys, never knowing in advance the shape of the terrain, and never knowing of other route options. To walk without a map is to walk with no real knowledge of your surroundings.
The best maps of the route are produced by the IGN (Institut Géographique National) at a scale of 1:25,000. These maps have blue covers and belong to a series known as Top 25. Order these in advance of your visit from map suppliers such as Stanfords (12–14 Long Acre, London WC2E 9BR, tel 0207 836 1321), The Map Shop (15 High Street, Upton-upon-Severn WR8 0HJ, tel 01684 593146) or Cordee (3a De Montford Street, Leicester LE1 7HD, tel 0116 254 3579). Six sheets are needed to cover the entire route, as follows:
4149 OT Calvi
4250 OT Corte and Monte Cinto
4251 OT Monte d’Oro and Monte Rotondo
4252 OT Monte Renoso
4253 OT Petreto-Bicchisano and Zicavo
4253 ET Aiguilles de Bavella and Solenzara
The wonderfully compact Didier Richard map of the GR20, using IGN mapping at a scale of 1:50,000, covers the entire route on a single sheet and includes plenty of mountainous terrain off-route. The ISBN is 978-2-344-00043-4, and it is readily available at airport shops, tourist information offices and many other outlets around Corsica. The IGN Mini Corse map, which covers the whole of Corsica at a scale of 1:250,000, is handy to refer to if making long bus or train journeys around Corsica. IGN mapping at all scales can be viewed online at Géoportail, m.geoportail.fr.
The maps in this guidebook are basically diagrammatic, at a scale of 1:50,000. Transferring the route from these maps to one of the recommended walking maps should be fairly straightforward. The gradient profiles provide an immediate visual appreciation of all the ups and downs along the way.
Mountain weather
Mountain ranges have a habit of creating their own weather conditions. The mountains of Corsica boast several summits over 2000m (6560ft). In the summer months the sun beats down relentlessly on bare granite slopes, raising the temperature of the air and creating great up-draughts. This draws in cool, moist air from the Mediterranean, leading to condensation, cloud cover, rain and fearsome thunderstorms. The usual pattern is for the day to start sunny and clear, with cloud building up in the afternoon. Whether the cloud eventually results in rain or thunderstorms depends on the amount of build-up. The mountain ridges are very exposed in severe weather conditions and sudden lightning strikes have claimed trekkers’ lives.
This picture was taken in November. When snow covers the markers, the route becomes very difficult to trace
Even without thunderstorms the heat alone can be severe at times, causing problems of thirst, dehydration, sunburn and sunstroke. Seasonal streams dry up completely, so that a full day’s ration of water needs to be carried. The recommended minimum is two litres, but three or four may be needed, so take careful note of the availability of water sources in the middle of the day, where these are available. At either side of the peak summer period trekkers can take advantage of cooler, clear conditions.
The onset of winter sees snow covering the paths, obliterating the trails and waymarks, making most slopes too dangerous to negotiate. Conditions may be truly Alpine. In general, consider the GR20 closed to ordinary trekkers from mid-October to the end of May, although much depends on the severity of the winter months. Bear in mind that it can snow in the mountains in summer, although this is very rare and any snow cover will be very short-lived.
Weather forecasts, known as meteos, should be obtained on a daily basis at the refuges along the way. Those trekking the GR20 early or later in the season could have difficulty obtaining forecasts. Either carry a small radio, or if a mobile signal is available, tel 08 99 71 02 20, or if internet is available, check www.meteofrance.com.
Path conditions
In many places the GR20 is a narrow, stony, rocky mountain trail. Trekkers usually move in single file and give way to those coming in the opposite direction. However, some parts are well-trodden and well-marked, with multiple trodden paths. The standard form of waymarking quickly becomes familiar. One red and one white stripe of paint, parallel to each other, are daubed at intervals on rocks, trees, boulders and other immovable objects. There are a few signposts, generally at the refuges, or at prominent intersections with other routes. Painted markers are slowly being replaced by small plaques fixed to rocks, posts, trees and buildings.
There are alternative routes and link routes from the GR20, and these are usually marked with yellow stripes of paint at intervals. The GR20 occasionally intersects with other long-distance routes crossing Corsica from coast to coast, and these are marked with orange stripes. Anyone walking for more than a few minutes without any sign of waymarking has probably gone off course, because the markers are usually abundant.
If the route in this guidebook is at variance with the waymarking, then it may well be that the route has been changed. This happens occasionally and it is best to follow the new markers, but if possible, ask someone else coming in the opposite direction what the extent of re-routing is.
Snow cover can linger well into the summer, but the amount of snow and the length of time it lies depend on many factors. Apart from the obvious risks of snow and ice being slippery underfoot, there is also the problem of painted waymark flashes being buried, so that trekkers find themselves unsure about the intricacies of route-finding in complex terrain. If there is too much snow cover, an ice axe and crampons become necessary. If using crampons, bear in mind that it will be necessary to put them on and off several times where the route crosses rocky areas bearing patches of snow and ice. Microspikes, while not as good as crampons, are better than nothing.
The standard red and white flashes of paint marking the GR20 are being replaced by plaques
LATEST NEWS
Check randoblogpnrc.blogspot.co.uk before departure to see if there are any problems with any part of the GR20. Early in the season, it will mention any places where snow and ice linger. Late in the season, it will say when the refuges are unstaffed.
Check corsicaforhikers.com/forum to gather the latest news and opinions as they are reported by other trekkers, or use the forum to ask questions about the GR20.
Guide includes a major change, following the closure of the Cirque de la Solitude in 2015. A variant route over the shoulder of Monte Cinto was fully marked in 2015. In 2016 it was confirmed as the main (and only) course of the GR20.
Mountain rescue
Every year there is at least one casualty along the course of the GR20 and a number of accidents. On the whole, these incidents don’t happen where you might expect them, but seem to be the result of a moment of carelessness or lack of concentration. Watch where you are putting your feet when you are trekking, as the ground is often rough and rocky or covered in stones and boulders. Trekkers scrambling up or down rock slabs and gullies should be careful how they move, and not make a move unless it can be reversed. Take special care if snow and ice lingers into the summer. If there is an unusual amount, an ice axe and crampons may be needed. Avoid getting into dangerous situations, as the terrain is unforgiving.
In June 2015, a serious accident was caused when heavy rain caused a landslide in the Cirque de la Solitude. Seven trekkers were killed and several injured, resulting in the immediate closure and diversion of the route. An accident on this scale is very rare, and with hindsight it could have been avoided altogether. It reinforces the need to check the weather and avoid dangerous conditions. It has been announced that waymarks and protection will have been removed from the Cirque de la Solitude for the 2016 season, and the route now goes over the shoulder of Monte Cinto, described in Stage 4.
Any trekker suffering a serious fall or injury will have to be rescued. The international distress signal is given on the Mountain Safety page at the front of this guide. The mountain rescue service is generally free, but medical intervention can be costly. Some trekkers believe that insurance policies offered by the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) or Austrian Alpine Club (AAC) are best for routes such as the GR20. It is important, however, to read insurance policies carefully and ask questions if unsure about the level of cover being provided, or if unsure about specific exclusions that render such policies void.
In 2016 all chains were stripped from the Cirque de la Solitude, now not part of the GR20 route.
Getting a message out in an emergency is not always easy. Mobile phones simply don’t work along many parts of the GR20. When the refuges are staffed, most of them have radio contact with the outside world, and there are usually little helipads alongside. If it is possible to get a message out via one of the refuges, then help will be quickly forthcoming. Anyone using a VHF radio can call for assistance on the emergency Canal E, on 161.300 MHz.
Without a mobile phone signal, it might prove necessary to descend to a road and find a telephone, bearing in mind that delays can be crucial. The appropriate telephone numbers are police (gendarmerie) 17, ambulance (samu) 15, fire service (pompiers) 18, or the European emergency number 112. Any of these services can alert the mountain rescue, or PGHM (Peleton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne). The PGHM can be contacted directly at Corte, tel 04 95 61 13 95. However, try not to get into a situation in the first place where rescue is needed.
For less urgent health matters there is a pharmacy at Calenzana, and beyond that you would have to leave the GR20 and head for one of the larger villages or towns. If you need any regular medication, take plenty with you, or be prepared to leave the route. If a doctor or a trip to a hospital is required, European citizens should present their European Health Insurance Card, which may help to offset the cost of certain treatments.
What to take
Most trekkers on the GR20 carry far too much equipment. Think very carefully about the gear you plan to carry, and ruthlessly pare it to the bare minimum. The GR20 is a tough, steep and rocky trail that is generally followed in blazing sun, so it is unwise to carry a heavy load, which will sap your energy and slow you down.
Neither is there any need to carry much food, so long as you don’t mind paying handsomely to buy food that has been carried up to the refuges. There is no need to carry heavy gear when lightweight gear is available. If you book all your overnights in the refuges, you can dispense with almost all other backpacking gear and carry the lightest possible sleeping bag. Nor is there any great need to carry more than one complete change of clothing, since clothes can be washed and dried along the way. Keep your pack light and aim to enjoy the trek!
ESSENTIALS
Good footwear – either lightweight boots or shoes, for those absolutely confident about wearing them, or heavier boots if you need them.
Sock combination – try something like Bridgedales, with a dedicated Coolmax liner sock
Clothing combination – polyester or polycotton, which is better than all-cotton for comfort, and dries quickly after washing
Sun protection – those who burn easily should use light-coloured long sleeved/legged clothing and a sun hat
Sunscreen – the sun can be very strong in the mountains and your skin can be burnt quite easily
Waterproofs – a lightweight jacket is sufficient; trousers aren’t necessary, but carry them if preferred
Windproofs – a lightweight jacket is useful, but may be classed as optional, and your waterproof might suffice
Rucksack – should be big enough to carry everything, and no more, and of course it should be comfortable
Sleeping bag – a lightweight one is sufficient, as it will never get too cold in the summer months, and one is needed even if staying in refuges
Tent – a lightweight one; it may not be used all the time and the weather in summer is often good
Survival bag – just in case it is needed, and maybe for a bit of protection underneath your tent
Sleeping mat – campsites are usually hard and stony, so use something like a Therm-a-rest mattress
Water carrier – with a capacity of at least two litres, and preferably with a drinking hose
Headtorch – there are plenty of tiny, high-power torches to choose from, and take a spare battery
Wash kit – toothbrush, soap, towel, toilet paper, etc., and maybe a biodegradable travel wash for clothes
First aid kit – a compact one for the usual cuts, sprains, blisters, burns, breaks, stings, pains, etc
Money – take enough cash for the duration, as further supplies are only available off-route. Refuges don’t usually take credit cards
Maps – IGN maps of a scale and quality to see clearly what is happening along the route and off-route
Ice axe and crampons – essential items if there is any chance of snow or ice cover early or late in the season.
NON-ESSENTIALS
Camera – for recording the sights and experiences of this remarkable journey, but keep it lightweight
Stove and cookset – to cook outside refuges, but fuel may not always be available along the way
Mobile phone – may be unusable for much of the time, and recharging opportunities are limited
GPS – sometimes fail to pick up good signals, and recharging opportunities at refuges are limited
Sunglasses – can be very useful in blazing sunshine, but are ultimately a matter of personal preference
Trekking poles – can be very useful, especially a pair of them, but are a matter of personal preference
Shoes/sandals – for comfort while strolling around in the evenings after completing each day’s trek
Slippers or flip flops – for use inside refuges, where outdoor footwear is banned
Rope – only for the really insecure on the rocky parts, or if there is any chance of extensive snow cover
Books – either field guides to Mediterranean flora and fauna, or the latest novel choice for the evenings.
Services along the route
Some say that the GR20 starts in Calenzana, passes through Vizzavona at the halfway stage, and ends in Conca. That is an over-simplification, and in fact a good half-dozen villages lie only two or three hours off the GR20. There are some good lodgings that lie even closer to the route, so don’t imagine that the GR20 involves a complete commitment to a mountainous environment for a week at a time.
People looking for comfort should bear in mind that basic is standard along the main route, and camping spaces tend to be hard and dusty, with limited facilities. Anything above basic is the exception. There are a few gîtes d’étape, which are similar to hostels, and even fewer hotels on or near the route.
See Appendix C for a stage-by-stage accommodation list.
Refuges
For trekkers staying strictly on the classic GR20, most services revolve around mountain refuges situated at intervals along the way. These are provided by the Parc Natural Régional de Corse (PNRC), and are open throughout the year, but are only staffed by a gardien and stocked with food between June and September. Basic mixed-sex bunk accommodation and foam mattresses are provided, but you must bring your own sleeping bag as no covers of any sort are supplied. Electric lights are usually operated by solar-charged batteries. There is a kitchen/dining room with tables, pots and pans, knives and forks, crockery and gas cookers. Take slippers or flip flops for use inside the refuges as boots cannot be worn.
Inside the Refuge de Tighjettu (Stage 4), which is one of the more spacious refuges provided by the PNRC.
There is always a water supply, either inside or outside the building. Toilets and showers may be primitive and there will often be queues. Showers are solar-heated, but often run cold, while the toilets are sometimes the squat-type and occasionally out of use. You may need to provide your own toilet paper.
All the refuges provide at least a basic hot meal and stock basic supplies of food and drinks, but the choice varies from place to place. Those who will eat anything will not need to carry any food supplies beyond a snack for lunch. Although it is possible to trek the whole of the GR20 and stay indoors every night, bear in mind that beds at the PNRC refuges must be reserved and paid for in advance online, www.parc-corse.org. Anyone trekking without making bookings will be unlikely to find any beds available. Note that the site is in French and bookings are confirmed only when full payment is made. Print confirmations and present them on arrival at each refuge in turn. Tents may also be hired and paid for in advance. It is possible, but not essential, to book and pay for camping spaces in advance, if you are carrying a tent. Of course, advance booking ties trekkers to a fixed schedule, which can prove awkward if anything forces overnights to be re-arranged en route. The refuges hold between 16 and 48 people, but as many as 300 may descend on them in the peak season!
Refuges are non-smoking and dogs are not allowed indoors. Quiet is maintained from 2200 and trekkers are asked to vacate the buildings before 0900. However, some trekkers like to go to bed early and rise as early as 0300! Carry a tent and sleeping bag as back-up, and packing a stove and pans avoids queues in the refuge kitchens.
To stay in a refuge, present your booking confirmation to the gardien. If you want to camp, but haven’t made a booking, explain this on arrival. If there is space free in the refuge, or in a hire tent, then it is possible to pay on the spot. If you are given a ticket for camping, or a label to fix to your tent, don’t lose these or you may be asked to pay again. Evening meals should be ordered on arrival, and breakfast generally needs to be ordered the night before. Snack meals and drinks are usually sold throughout the day, and food items can also be purchased from whatever stock is held on the premises.
Bergeries
Apart from the refuges, there are also privately owned bergeries along the way. These are working summer farms and some of them allow camping alongside, or provide hire tents. They also supply anything from basic food and drink to complete meals to passing trekkers. Some bergeries operate small cafés or bar restaurants. Camping and eating at these places costs roughly the same as at the refuges.
Simple summer farms, or bergeries, may sell food and drink to walkers, or allow overnight camping nearby (Stage 6)
Camping
For those carrying a tent, camping is available near all the refuges and some of the bergeries, gîtes and hotels, but only very rarely in other places. It is generally forbidden to camp wild throughout the Parc Natural Régional de Corse (PNRC), no matter how tempting a site might look. Bear in mind that the ground reserved for camping is usually bare, hard, stony and dusty, so pack a sleeping mattress, such as a Therm-a-Rest or similar, and something to protect the groundsheet of your tent. Those who camp near the refuges have access to the toilets, showers and outside stoves and cooking areas, but they should check with individual gardiens to see if they can use the stoves, pans, crockery and utensils inside the refuges. Bergerie kitchens are generally off-limits. Even if not camping a lightweight tent is good insurance if anything prevents a refuge being reached.
Luxury lodgings
There are a few hotels and gîtes d’étape on or near the GR20. Trekkers can indulge themselves at these places, enjoying comfortable rooms and hot showers, and eating in restaurants or dining rooms. It is possible to phone ahead and book accommodation at most of these places, and telephone numbers are given throughout this guidebook.
Village life
Detours off-route for accommodation, food and drink in nearby villages are heartily recommended, as the course of the GR20 allows little interaction with native Corsicans. Information is provided about spurs and loops taking in a handful of fine little villages, listing their facilities and transport links.
Back-up
For those wanting vehicle back-up for their trek, road access is possible at the start, finish, and at seven points in between: Calenzana, Ascu Stagnu, Hôtel Castel di Vergio, Vizzavona, Bergeries d’ E Capanelle, Bocca di Verdi, Bassetta/Matalza, Village de Bavella and Conca. The back-up driver would need to find some other occupation for the days between supplying trekkers’ needs, but there is plenty of interest around Corsica.
Food, drink and fuel
The amount of food and drink, and what sort of supplies to carry, is entirely a matter of personal preference. Food and drink are available at every refuge along the way, but only when they are staffed from June to September. Most of the bergeries, as well as gîtes and hotels also stock food and drink, so there is no need to carry anything apart from a packed lunch and emergency rations each day. You can see where the next food is available along the route, whichever direction you choose to trek it, by consulting the tables in Appendix A and Appendix B.
Those who will eat anything, and who don’t mind paying over the odds for food that has been carried on horseback to the refuges, or dropped from helicopters, can travel extremely lightweight. Fussy feeders, or those with special dietary requirements, may not find much to their taste, and may find appropriate supplies rather limited in some places. Fresh food is a rarity at remote refuges, and it will never be haut cuisine, although more imaginative meals may be obtained by moving off-route to a nearby village.
Always be aware of where your next water source is located, and guard against dehydration at all times.
When cooked meals are available, as they are at almost every refuge, bergerie, gîte and hotel, be sure to order one as soon as possible. If breakfast is required, order it the night before, which seems to be essential even if it turns out to be nothing more than bread, jam and coffee. Prepared meals are of course expensive, partly because everything has been carried into the mountains, but if you don’t feel like cooking or washing up, then they are good value. Picnic meals can be bought, or you can buy items to make your own.
Those who wish to carry food supplies should think lightweight, and choose freeze-dried and high-energy foods to keep their pack weight down. When given the chance to obtain more substantial fare, it makes sense to eat heavy foodstuffs on the spot and carry lighter items away. Carrying glass bottles can be dangerous and messy if they break. Drinks in plastic bottles or cans are safer, but the containers need to be disposed of at the refuges. Take careful note of re-supply points along the way. Remember that while supplies can be obtained at frequent intervals along the GR20, there is little or nothing available for long stretches outside the peak summer season.
Those who have special dietary requirements, or suffer from serious food allergies, would be well advised to have someone re-supply them at intervals along the trail, rather than run the risk of finding no suitable food available. Corsican food, or at least that which is generally available in remote refuges, tends to be based around pork products, pasta and cheese, with many foodstuffs containing plenty of sugar, nuts or salt. Packets and tins of food are likely to be unfamiliar brands, which is fine for those who like to experiment and sample new foodstuffs, but a nightmare for others! Vegetarians would struggle to find appropriate food at some points and vegans would struggle even more. Don’t expect the refuge gardiens to provide alternative meals. Even if they do, it will be done with ill humour!
Water is available at all the refuges and bergeries along the route. It is spring water, straight from the mountainside, and considered safe to drink without boiling or treating, unless advised otherwise. Water from streams may be seasonal at best, and may need treating if used by animals or for bathing.
Bottled water is scarce in the mountains, but the two main Corsican brands are St Georges and Zilia. There is a bottled drink called Corsica Cola, for those who like a variation on a theme! Corsican beer, or bièra Corsa, on sale in the mountains includes Pietra, Serena, Torra and even a brand of chestnut beer, or bière chataigne. Wine is sometimes on sale, either from labelled or unlabelled bottles of varying quality.
Fuel can be a problem along the GR20. Those who fly to Corsica will not be allowed to carry fuel, so will need to buy it on arrival. The most common types are alcool à bruler, which is the nearest equivalent to methylated spirits, Camping Gaz and other types of gas canisters. If you are doing your own cooking, you will need a stove that uses alcohol or gas. When places sell out of a particular type of fuel, they may not restock immediately, in which case start asking in advance, so that you aren’t left without fuel when your supply finally runs out. If that happens, it is possible to use the gas stoves outside the refuges, although there may be queues.
Lighting fires is forbidden along the GR20, as signs along the way will remind you.
KEY POINTS ON FOOD SUPPLIES
All the refuges sell meals and food supplies.
Most bergeries, gîtes and hotels sell supplies.
Supplies are very limited outside the summer.
Order cooked meals as soon as you arrive.
Order a prepared breakfast the night before.
Supplies of fuel can be difficult to obtain.
Language
The Collectivité Territoriale de Corse has a distinct language and culture of its own, and a greater control over its affairs than any other region of France. The native island language is Corsican, which has its roots in the Tuscan dialect of Italy. However, French is spoken throughout Corsica and this is the language that visitors will use most. Many Corsicans are also fluent in Italian, but it is best to assume that English is not widely understood by the islanders.
Most placenames on maps and signposts, and in this guidebook, are in fact Corsican words, although often there is a variant French form, and there is a lot of variety in spellings in some locations. Corsicans use words like bocca where the French would use col. Corsicans often use the letter ‘u’ as the last vowel. The Corsican guttural compound ‘ghj’ is entirely unknown in French. These traits make it easier to distinguish between the two languages. (The Corsican name for the GR20, incidentally, is ‘Fra li Monti’, meaning ‘Through the Mountains’.)
No one expects visitors to learn Corsican, but a few words of French are useful. You may start by greeting everyone you meet with a hearty bonjour, only to find out later that none of them speak French! In fact, trekkers from a dozen nationalities or more are likely to be met along the route, and English quickly becomes a common trail language. A knowledge of French, however basic, and a willingness to use the language is a distinct bonus when dealing with local people. While trekking the GR20, only a minimal amount of French is needed, but anyone travelling elsewhere around the island will require a wider vocabulary. See Appendix D for a basic selection of useful words and phrases.
Currency
Cash is king on the GR20, so be sure to have plenty of euros when you start the trek. Mountain refuges and bergeries along the way will only accept cash for accommodation, food and drink. In fact, they must accumulate countless thousands of euros between them each summer! Hotels may take credit cards, but payment by that method is only possible two or three times. There are no banks along the GR20, and money is available only by moving off-route to one of the larger towns.
In 2015, the standard price for a bed in the PNRC refuges was €14 per person, or €11 for two people in a hire tent, or €7 per person to camp near the refuges. Evening meals were around €13 to €20 and breakfasts €8. Private bergeries often match the refuge prices for camping and meals, but may be a little cheaper, or more expensive. Expect a demi pension rate in a gîte d’étape to be around €50 per person, while demi pension in a hotel could cost over €100 per person.
Using this guide
This book contains all the information needed to follow the GR20. The classic route from north to south is described from start to finish in 16 stages, and full details of high- and low-level alternative routes are given, as well as route descriptions for the ascent of nearby prominent peaks. It is therefore possible to pick and choose which sections to complete, and to compare and contrast any alternatives that are presented. You will probably use only half of the book, but you will have access to all of the options.
Information on the route is given near the start of the route description. Distances are given in kilometres and miles, but for the most part these are irrelevant. What really counts is the nature of the terrain, the gradients on the ascents and descents, the conditions underfoot, and the amount of time it takes to cover each part. The total ascent and descent for each stage is presented in metres and feet. Route profiles show altitude on the vertical axis at 500m intervals and distance on the horizontal axis at 1km intervals. Conditions underfoot are noted in the actual route descriptions. The main features on the sketch maps are shown in bold type in the route descriptions, making it easier to monitor progress along the route.
Most trekkers measure their progress simply by time, and timings for various stages of the GR20 have been promoted so often that they might as well be carved in stone. In some instances, they are at least carved in wood on signs! As most trekkers are using the same times, they are given in more or less the same form in this book, in the route descriptions and in the summary tables in Appendices A and B. Use these timings as a basic guide.
Those who complete stages a little faster in the first couple of days are likely to complete all further stages faster. Trekkers who are a long way behind the given times should work out by how much, then apply that to their onward progress. Note that the times are walking times, and take no account whatsoever of breaks for lunch, rests or taking pictures. Over roughly two weeks most trekkers will cover a distance of about 200km (125 miles) and climb some 12,500m (41,000ft) in total.
The GR20 is a slow and often difficult trek, but one where the scenery is so magnificent that you wouldn’t wish to be anywhere else. The best advice is to take it steadily. Don’t rush the route or over-exert yourself. Aim to enjoy the experience and give the trek as long as it needs for a successful completion. The two tables in Appendix A and Appendix B will help you set your own pace, knowing where food and services are available along the route, whether you are trekking from Calenzana to Conca or Conca to Calenzana.
The French Foreign Legion, which is based in Corsica, generally takes a week to complete the GR20. The record for covering the distance non-stop is currently 32 hours, set in July 2014 by Guillaume Peretti.
ADVICE IN A NUTSHELL
Don’t start too early or too late in the year.
Make sure you are fit and well prepared.
Keep your pack weight as low as possible.
Be sure to carry enough food and water.
Walk slowly and steadily with care.
Be aware of your options each day.
Obtain a weather forecast each day.
Consider using two trekking poles.
Use a high-factor sunscreen and wear a hat.
Learn at least a few words of French.
and remember...
It is a tough trek but not a rock climb.
The mountain refuges are always open.
The refuges have well-equipped kitchens.
Refuges must be pre-booked – www.parc-corse.org.
Facilities outside the peak season are scarce.
Snow can lie well into June and even July.
Mobile phones only rarely get a good signal.
Waymarking is usually very good.
Many other trekkers are going your way.
English is not widely spoken in Corsica.
Plants and wildlife on Corsica
Corsica is like most other long-established islands – it has a flora and fauna with a wealth of unique sub-species. It is unrealistic to think that you can trek the GR20 and also study the range of flora and fauna in any depth, but it is also amazing just how many things will gain your attention along the way. Be ready for surprises, such as finding a long line of pine processionary caterpillars shuffling through the forest.
Maquis
The tangled maquis vegetation for which Corsica is renowned looks colourful and smells wonderful – a heady mix of perfume and herby aromas. The classic maquis species will be seen very little, however, because the route rises so quickly into the mountains and stays there for so long. The mountain scrub is largely composed of calycotome, or spiny broom, and a ground-hugging form of juniper – they are both as prickly as gorse. Bushy growths of alder are also present, indicating a little more moisture in the ground.
Trees
Tree cover in mountain valleys is dominated by tall, straight laricio pines, maritime pines, birch and beech. There are a few localised patches of holm oak, mountain ash, sycamore and arbutus. While chestnuts may be one of the most important trees in Corsica, very few of them are seen in the mountains, but they are usually found by moving off-route to villages. Some areas of forest have been devastated in recent years by forest fires.
Spiny broom, or calycotome, is a very common plant in the scrub cover on the high mountains
An uncommon wild olive tree might be spotted, while cultivated olives are seen at Calenzana and Conca
Flowers
On the higher mountains there are interesting communities of plants. Violets and thyme can be abundant, and Alpine species include saxifrages and Alpine avens. As the snow melts in early summer, look out for delightful Corsican crocuses. Colourful orchids, big clumps of euphorbia and poisonous hellebores are also found. Corsican aconites grow only on the Plateau du Cuscione, alongside streams draining the closely cropped grasslands. Look out for curious parasitic plants. Mistletoe often thrives on laricio pines, while dense mats of dodder spread over spiny broom.
The arbutus, or strawberry tree, is found in the lower valleys off-route and bears red fruit in the autumn
Wildlife
Wild animals are rarely spotted in the mountains. There are herds of mouflon – wild, long-horned, short-haired sheep that graze on almost inaccessible ledges. Hundreds of them live on the island’s mountains. Wild boar are shy and seldom seen – a more common sight is herds of feral pigs, ranging from black to piebald and pink. Pigs, cattle and goats graze at prodigious heights in the mountains and can be found even on high rocky ridges. Shepherds keep track of them by listening for the bongling bells on lead animals. Foxes are nuisances around campsites, so guard your food!
Pigs are turned loose to forage for food through the summer and are rounded up before winter
Lizards and amphibians
Lizards can be spotted every day that the sun shines brightly, and trekkers may also catch a glimpse of the larger, slow-moving salamander in woodland or near rivers, with its black body speckled with yellow blobs to ward off would-be predators. A curious newt-like creature called the euprocte lives and spawns in most streams on the island, even high in the mountains.
Fish
Fishermen are seen from time to time on the larger streams or chancing their arms at one of the lakes, generally fishing for trout (including an endemic Corsican variety) or eels.
Birds
The lucky few may spot an eagle circling overhead, and other birds of prey such as buzzards and peregrines can be seen. Ravens are completely at home in the mountain fastnesses, as are Alpine choughs. Most trekkers hear about the Corsican nuthatch, which creeps head-first down tree trunks in search of insects, but is rarely seen. Most of the time, the birds seen and heard are likely to be little pipits, with a delightful range of colours, notes and songs, flitting across the mountainsides as you approach.
Cattle have been grazed high in the mountains of Corsica for thousands of years
Field guides
A couple of good field guides to birds and plants of the Mediterranean are useful for those prepared to carry the extra weight. There are specific guides to Corsican species, but only in French. Most bookshops on the island stock a selection and plenty of colourful books about the mountains.
Pots and pans outside a bergerie, where cows, goats and sheep are milked
