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INTRODUCTION

Looking south-west from a viewpoint on Monte Ortobene to Monte Corrasi and its neighbours (Walk 1)

Sardinia, lying to the west of Italy, is one of the largest islands in the Mediterranean. Its sun-drenched beaches have long been renowned for their beauty, and for many decades travellers took a rather romantic view of the hard, simple life led by the island's shepherds. Only in recent years have visitors to the island really started trying to penetrate the complex network of narrow, rugged mountain paths that weave through woods and the dense scrub of the macchia, discovering ancient hand-carved rock tombs, tumbled nuraghic (megalithic) towers and settlements, and cosy little pinnettus used throughout the centuries as simple shepherd's dwellings.

Until recently walkers often experienced great problems trying to follow difficult routes without the benefit of signposts or markers. All agreed that the uplands were wild, remote and often stunningly, savagely beautiful, while at the same time being incredibly difficult to access and frustratingly awkward to explore. Now, however, to walkers' great relief, signposts and waymarked trails have become available in many places, and more and more remote areas are becoming better known.

This guidebook explores the wildest, highest and most remote parts of Sardinia, using a mixture of trodden and un-trodden routes, as well as newly signposted and waymarked trails. The area covered, lying east of the centre of Sardinia, includes the stunning cliff coastline of Ogliastra, the barren Supramonte further inland, and the broad, high mountains of Gennargentu. This region contains some of the best and most popular walks on the island, and was recently proposed as a national park. Good roads from nearby towns, such as Nuoro, allow access to the region, while winding mountain roads penetrate to the most remote parts. Surprisingly, most villages offer a wide range of facilities and often have quite good bus services. This guidebook aims to encourage walkers to visit and explore the villages, use the local services and facilities, and enjoy a wide range of walking routes, to suit all abilities, while exploring the area's rich and varied countryside.

Location

DH Lawrence described Sardinia as being ‘lost between Europe and Africa and belonging nowhere'. More precisely, Sardinia lies west of Italy, south of France and Corsica, east of the Balearic Islands and Spain, and north of the African countries of Tunisia and Algeria. The island's location attracted early settlers from three distinct parts of the Mediterranean – the Italian and Iberian peninsulas, and North Africa. Each had their own culture and traditions, and yet the island was large enough to absorb these, and all other invaders and settlers, throughout the centuries.

Sardinia is renowned for its astounding coastline and rugged landscapes

Sardinia is one of the largest Mediterranean islands, being second only to Sicily in size. Some islands are small enough to be explored comfortably in holidays lasting a week or two, but this simply isn't the case with Sardinia. The island is huge, and the best way for British visitors to appreciate this is to remember that it is about the same size as Wales, but rather more difficult to get around.

Exploring Sardinia in depth would take a lifetime, which is why this guidebook concentrates on the region where the best walking opportunities are within easy reach of each other. In summer, when the heat is ferocious at sea level, the high mountains and cooler air can be gained with relative ease. In winter, when the mountains are covered in snow, the low-lying parts and coastal fringe feature much kinder weather.

Geology

In the area covered by this guidebook, the oldest rocks are complex, contorted, crumbling schist, occurring mainly in the highest mountains of Gennargentu. In some places there are significant granite intrusions, and this rock either forms prominent outcrops or crumbles into coarse sand and gravel. Rising from the sea are massive limestone cliffs, and the same rock extends far inland, rising to high mountains, often incredibly steep, rugged and arid. In some places remnants of this limestone layer sit on top of the crumbling schist and form distinctive taccu (‘shoe-heel') summits, which are steep-sided and flat-topped. Some areas, particularly around the Golgo plateau and Dorgali, are covered by relatively recent basalt lava flows.

The high mountains are often composed of highly contorted schist containing bands of quartz

History

In common with most Mediterranean islands, Sardinia has a long and complex history. It was visited by palaeolithic hunter-gatherers, who established no permanent settlements. Continuous habitation dates from neolithic times, around 6000BC. Interestingly, these settlers travelled from places as far apart as Italy, Iberia and Africa. They sometimes formed alliances and were sometimes in dispute with each other. The most notable neolithic structures on the island are the square-cut rock tombs known as domus de janas (‘fairy house') and tomba dei giganti (‘giants' tomb'). Dwellings, on the other hand, were simple circular huts, with low stone foundations topped by a ‘wigwam' of thatched branches, similar to the pinnettus used by shepherds today.

Inside one of the domus de janas at the Necropoli di Ispiluncas (Walk 50)

By the Bronze Age, around 1500BC, villages of circular huts were often huddled close together for mutual defence, and stout nuraghe (stone towers) were built as central refuges. Immense boulders were used in their construction. Many remain in good shape, some have been partially restored, while others have tumbled, making them difficult to locate, although around 7000 are known.

Phoenician traders visited Sardinia from 1000BC, establishing coastal settlements at first, but encountering resistance as they moved further inland. When Sardinians attacked their ports after 500BC, the Phoenicians sought help from the Carthaginians. Together they conquered most of the island, except for the highest and most rugged mountain areas, which proved difficult for all subsequent invaders to control. After the First Punic War in 238BC, the Romans took control of Sardinia and it became a Roman province for seven centuries. The highest and most mountainous region was deemed ‘barbarian', and this is where the bulk of the routes in this guidebook are located.

With the collapse of Roman authority, Vandals settled in parts of Sardinia from AD456, but were dislodged after AD534, when Sardinia became part of the Byzantine empire. The ‘barbarian' region was the last to be brought under control, and the last to be converted to Christianity. As Arabs spread around the Mediterranean, Sardinia organised its own resistance. Coastal raids commenced in AD703, and the population moved inland for safety. By the year 900 Sardinia had split into four distinct regions, referred to as giudicati. Each region allied itself with particular powers, including the city states of Genoa and Pisa.

As various European powers jostled for supremacy, Sardinia came under Aragonese influence and found itself part of the Kingdom of Sardinia and Corsica in 1324. Political turmoil throughout the 14th century led to the formation of the kingdom of Arborea, which encompassed the whole of Sardinia, except for the towns of Cagliari and Alghero, with Eleonora d'Arborea as effective ruler. However, Spanish influence and control in Sardinia stretched through to the early 18th century. During the War of Spanish Succession, Austria and Spain wrestled for control before the island passed to the dukes of Savoy, princes of Piedmont, by 1718. This move led to Sardinia being incorporated into Piedmont, and both areas were jointly referred to as the Kingdom of Sardinia.

Sardinia's history and heritage is often celebrated by murals painted on the walls of houses

A succession of wars led to the unity of states on the Italian peninsula, and by 1861 the Kingdom of Sardinia became the Kingdom of Italy. After the Second World War Italy became a republic in 1946, and Sardinia was granted a greater measure of autonomy than any other region. The coastal areas were malarial until 1950, but the disease was wiped out by a comprehensive spraying program. Tourism developed from that point, but wavering economics caused many Sardinians to leave the island. In the 1960s new industries flourished, including oil refineries and chemical plants. Some marshland areas were reclaimed for agriculture, while some agricultural areas were covered by industrial estates. On the highest and most rugged parts of the island, there was little change, though rural populations declined as people moved to the expanding urban areas. There are almost 1.7 million people living in Sardinia, mostly in a handful of towns, but there are also ten million visiting tourists each year, most of whom come for the beaches.

Landscape

Sardinia's landscapes are rich and varied. Most upland regions are well forested, but many parts feature dense, bushy scrub, or macchia, and plenty of bare rock. Most of the routes in this guidebook climb above 500m (1640ft), and may climb above 1000m (3280ft), with three routes converging on the highest mountain, Punta La Marmora, at 1834m (6017ft).

Some of the lower sunny slopes have been adapted to support vineyards, while low-lying areas are often intensively cultivated, producing all types of fruit and vegetables. The forested areas often feature clearings, which might be stocked with goats or pigs. Sheep and cattle are generally grazed in grassier areas.

No matter what types of landscape are encountered, the overall aspect is remote and rugged, removed from habitation. The terrain is ideal for walking, as long as good tracks and paths are followed. Trying to walk across country, without the benefit of trodden routes, often results in great difficulties.

Outside the area covered by this guidebook the mountains are lower, but no less rugged. As fewer walkers head for these other areas, there are not as many waymarked trails – none at all in some places – and fewer opportunities to discover a good range of walking routes. However, there are plenty of beaches that are much easier to reach than most of the beaches visited on routes in this guidebook.

Trees and Flowers

Sardinia's forests are overwhelmingly oak, ranging from evergreen holm oak to thick-barked cork oak, with deciduous oaks favouring the higher mountains. In some places pines are notable, either natural or in plantations. In limestone areas, gnarled juniper trees are common, and their trunks and branches endure long after they die. Lentisc trees often form dense, bushy scrub. Tall, straight alders generally grow alongside mountain watercourses, while at lower levels dense growths of oleasters almost choke the seasonal riverbeds. Cultivated trees include olives and all manner of fruit and nut trees. Oranges and lemons are grown as much for their ornamental value in gardens as they are in fruit groves. Almond trees sprout masses of flowers in spring.

Young holm oaks often have spiky leaves as a defence against grazing animals

The low, bushy, impenetrable macchia is often rich in species. These include aromatic and colourful lavender and rosemary, bushy broom and sticky cistus, dense and thorny species, and a range of delicate and colourful flowers that come and go through spring and summer, including crocuses and cyclamen. Some areas may be completely overwhelmed with stout asphodels.

Birds

Sardinia is well placed on migration routes, so that between September and March all kinds of birds can be observed.

There are great differences between the species that are attracted to the coast and to the mountains. Sardinia's low-lying marshlands and lagoons provide a habitat for the greatest number of species, including flamingos and herons, but are not visited on any of the walking routes in this guidebook. The cliff coast is often difficult to access, but provides good nesting sites for a variety of species.

Inland, opportunities to observe birds increases, and wooded areas support woodpigeons, woodpeckers and partridges. Open areas may feature shrikes, finches and warblers, with kites and kestrels hunting. Cliffs are often home to choughs and crag martins. The mountains are the preserve of ravens, while raptors include sparrowhawks, goshawks, eagles and vultures.

Animals

Sardinia's countryside is extensively grazed by domestic stock, including sheep, goats, cattle, pigs and horses. Some feral goats might be seen, as well as herds of horses grazing high in the mountains, and in one particular region, Sarcidano, an unusual breed, the Sarcidano horse, survives. Very occasionally it might be possible to glimpse wild boar, but these shun human contact. A rare breed of wild sheep known as mouflon has been reintroduced to Sardinia, along with small red deer, or cerv.

Goats graze throughout Sardinia, and their milk is often used to make a variety of cheeses

There are snakes in Sardinia, more noticeable on the hottest days and absent on colder days. They are not venomous, and shouldn't be a problem for walkers, as they will generally move quickly out of the way. There are lizards in many places, and frogs wherever there is access to water. Spring and early summer are good times to see plenty of butterflies, while in some low-lying places mosquitoes might occasionally prove annoying.

Lizards are abundant and often take advantage of open areas to sun themselves

National Park

Many maps of Sardinia show the outline of an extensive parco nazionale, or national park, encompassing the broad-shouldered schist mountains of Gennargentu, the Supramonte and the rugged limestone uplands and coast of Ogliastra. There was a plan to designate this area as a national park, but it came to nothing, so the lines drawn boldly on so many maps are meaningless. There is no doubt that the area deserves protection, but many of the comunes, and people whose livelihood depended on the land, opposed the plan, fearing that their rights would be restricted. Graffiti slogans – ‘no al parco' (‘no to the park') – appeared in many places and can still be seen today.

Getting to Sardinia

Flights

Few direct flights operate between Britain and Sardinia, especially in the winter months. Most flights serve Cagliari, in the south of the island, and Olbia, in the north – either of which can be used to access the area covered by this guidebook. Rather fewer serve Alghero, and this airport is the most remote from the routes in this guide. Airlines include Easyjet www.easyjet.com, Ryanair www.ryanair.com, Jet2 www.jet2.com, BMI Baby www.bmibaby.com and British Airways www.ba.com. If the little airport at Arbatax is developed in the future, it would offer immediate access to the bulk of the walks covered in this book. At the time of writing, it is served from Rome by Meridiana www.meridiana.it.

Ferries

There are useful ferryports at Cagliari and Olbia, with links to Italian ports, and most ferries are operated by Moby Lines www.moby.it and Tirrenia www.tirrenia.it. The occasional ferry from the Italian town of Civitavecchia to Arbatax, leading directly to the area covered by this guidebook, is operated by Tirrenia. There are other ports and operators, and sailings from France and Spain, but these are less useful as they berth too far from the area covered by this guidebook.

Getting Around Sardinia

Car hire

Cars can be hired on arrival in Sardinia, and it has to be said that cars offer the easiest and most convenient approach to many of the walks in this guidebook. However, some walking routes are linear, and a car is less useful, unless drop-offs and pick-ups can be arranged. If hiring a car, be warned that some of the roads used to reach walking routes are long, lonely, narrow and bendy. In other words, it takes time to get to and from some walks, and it therefore makes more sense to be based in a number of villages near a selection of the routes than to drive long distances from a single base (see ‘Where to stay', below).

By law, drivers must have their licences with them at all times, so don't ever leave yours behind at your lodgings. Road rescue (ICA) can be contacted by dialling 116. The driving distance between Olbia and Cagliari is about 300km (186 miles), using the SS125 road. At least 100km (62 miles) has to be travelled from either place before any of the routes in this guidebook can be accessed.

The village of Taquisara flares into life in the summer when the Trenino Verde arrives (Walk 33)

Trains

The layout of Sardinia's railways is simple, and journeys between some towns can be covered effectively and enjoyably. However, the rail network is little use for reaching the area covered by this guidebook. Although there is a railway station at Nuoro, anyone trying to catch a train from Cagliari or Olbia will be told quite bluntly to catch a bus instead. In the middle of summer, a couple of incredibly convoluted mountain railways operate, known as the Trenino Verde. These are best enjoyed by railway enthusiasts, and while they are immensely scenic and enjoyable, they are too slow and infrequent to be of use to walkers.

Buses

Buses allow all towns and most villages within the area covered by this guidebook to be reached, and the author used them effectively while researching this guide. However, anyone relying exclusively on buses needs dedication, as the system is not easily understood. Timetables are almost impossible to get hold of once you are in the area. Even at the main bus stations, details are scanty at best, and you will struggle to get hold of anything useful.

Buses often run from early in the day until late, surprisingly regularly in some places and less frequently in others (maybe only once a day, and perhaps not at all some days). You need to know the level of provision before you reach the area, and the only place to locate the information you need is the main bus website – Azienda Regionale Sarda Trasporti (ARST) www.arst.sardegna.it. Information is available only in Italian, and it is a struggle to figure out how the site works, but be assured that all the fine detail about routes and timetables is there. Once again, you will not get this level of detailed information once you reach Sardinia, so print out everything you need.

ARST buses are dark blue, and in some areas there are also light-blue FdS buses. The latter are technically part of the railway system, but are effectively merged with ARST. Bus stations (stazione dei pullman) exist in towns, while villages and country roads have bus stops (fermata). In case of difficulty finding a bus stop, ask a local person for help. Bus drivers may not be keen to pick up or drop passengers off between stops, but may do so on request. Make it quite obvious from the roadside if you want a bus to stop, making sure that there is a safe space to pull over. Be sure to give the driver advance notice if you want to get off the bus in a remote place.

Tickets (biglietti) are exceptionally good value, but must be bought before boarding a bus, usually from bars or tobacconists. Again, ask a local person for help to locate a sales outlet. Tickets must be validated by machine on boarding buses, although sometimes the driver does this. If a ticket cannot be bought in advance, bus drivers may sell one on board at an inflated price, or they may insist, with obvious ill-feeling, that passengers get off the bus at a sales outlet further along the route and buy a ticket.

Notes on timetables may include the following terms – da X per X (from X to X), per X da X (to X from X), giornaliero (daily), feriale (Monday to Saturday), scolastico (schooldays), domenica/festivo (Sunday/holiday) and con cambio a X (change at X). If you don't understand specific terms, ask someone for an explanation long before you need to catch a bus.

Large towns have their own bus companies running frequent urban services. These include CTM at Cagliari, ASPO at Olbia and ATP at Nuoro. Tickets must be obtained before boarding buses and validated on boarding. They are good value, generally allowing unlimited travel for a period of 90 minutes.

Taxis

In some instances, where buses are infrequent or absent, and car hire is unavailable, a taxi might be sought. Unfortunately, taxis are extremely rare outside the main towns and resorts, and while they seem good value for short urban journeys, they are prohibitively expensive for long journeys into remote areas. Bear in mind that some companies that offer trekking tours are willing to provide lifts to and from the places they regularly take their clients (there are lots of posters advertising these tours – just give the company a ring for more information).

Pointing out a route along the coastline of Ogliastra

Accommodation

Despite the apparent remoteness of some mountain villages, a range of accommodation is often available in a surprising number of places. Tourist information offices carry annually updated accommodation booklets, listing everything from hotels and guest-houses to hostels and campsites. Listings can be checked online – for Nuoro www.provincia.nuoro.it on the ‘Turismo' link, followed by ‘Guida all'Ospitalità’; and for Ogliastra www.turismo.ogliastra.it on the ‘Dove Dormire' link. Interestingly, the English term ‘Bed and Breakfast' features abundantly on roadside notices, although that is no guarantee that the proprietors will speak any English. If a wide range of walks from this guidebook are to be covered effectively, it is probably necessary to stay at a number of locations around the area in order to avoid spending too long travelling.

Of particular note is The Lemon House, a guest-house at Lotzoraì run by Peter Herold and Anne McGlone www.peteranne.it. They offer particular assistance to outdoor enthusiasts, covering such diverse activities as walking, rock-climbing, cycling, kayaking and general touring. They can help, if necessary, with guiding and accompanying their guests and with language issues. Walkers without cars have access to several bus routes at Lotzoraì, and the couple regularly offer guests lifts to and from nearby routes and attractions.

Health and Safety

Visitors are unlikely to contract any illness in Sardinia that they couldn't get at home. (Some low-lying parts of Sardinia used to be malarial, but the island was sprayed with DDT after the Second World War and the disease was eradicated.) All towns and many villages have pharmacies that can provide over-the-counter relief and remedies. More serious illness or injury might require a doctor or hospital treatment, so, if you are a European citizen, carry a European Health Insurance Card, which will allow at least some of the cost of treatments to be recovered.

The island's wildlife should cause few problems. Mosquitoes remain, and, while irritating at times, they carry no harmful diseases. There are snakes, although these will usually slip away when disturbed and will not bite unless cornered or handled. Honeybees will react aggressively towards anyone getting too close to hives, so give a wide berth to any hives you might see.

Flocks of sheep are often guarded by large white dogs that bark menacingly when approached. These are related to Pyrenean sheepdogs, and work unsupervised by man. They are extremely loyal to their flocks, living and travelling full-time with them. These dogs are not dangerous, provided that they are treated properly. Do nothing to alarm the sheep, as the dogs will interpret this as a threat and will react accordingly. Do not threaten the dogs by shouting or waving arms or sticks. If a dog approaches you, stand absolutely still and keep calm and quiet. The dog is simply trying to identify whether you are a ‘threat', and while it may bark, it will not attack without provocation. Once the dog is satisfied that you pose no threat, it will return to the flock. Do not attempt to pet, feed or distract it in any way. It is a working dog whose first responsibility is to the flock it guards.

Sheepdogs often guard flocks, and it is important not to aggravate or threaten them

Travel insurance can be useful, but check the wording of the policy, since some might class mountain walking in Sardinia as a ‘hazardous pursuit'. Mountain rescue is available and is provided free of charge (see ‘Emergencies', page 32).

Food and Drink

Surprisingly, for a large Mediterranean island, Sardinia is not noted for seafood. However, sea urchins, or ricci, are firm favourites around Cagliari, and fish are featuring more and more on menus. The reason for the dearth of seafood is historical. The cliff coast lacked natural harbours in many places, and accessible stretches of coast were subject to pirate attacks. As the coast was also malarial, settlers gravitated inland towards the mountains.

Cows, sheep and goats provide meat, and most of their milk is used for a variety of cheeses. Ricottas, provolas and pecorinos are Sardinian specialities. Arborea, an old name for Sardinia, is the brand name for local cow's milk. Pigs are widespread, often free range, and a roast suckling pig forms the centrepiece of parties around the island. Pork is used in salamis, hams and other products. Wild boars, rarely seen by walkers, are hunted in the forests. Horse-meat occasionally features on menus. Vegetarians will struggle to find a variety of meat-free items on menus.

Sardinian meals have courses named in the same way as Italian meals, and while some foodstuffs are instantly recognisable, others may be unfamiliar. Anything that is currently in season will be described as stagione. Local wines are derived from cannonau grapes, while the name of the local weak beer, Ichnusa, harks back to an ancient name for the island of Sardinia, meaning ‘footprint'.

Appetisers, or antipasta, often include crispy, poppadum-like pane carasau, along with a mixed plate of hams, salamis, pecorino and olives. A thicker crisp-bread, pistoccu, is likely to be served if the first course is a broth. Dip the bread into the broth, or into olive oil containing tomato, garlic and basil, to soften it.

The first course, primi, commonly includes ravioli-like culurgionis, containing pecorino and potato. Also popular is malloreddus (often likened to gnocchi, but different), commonly served with sausage and tomato sauce. Spaghetti is also frequently on the menu.

The secondi, or main course, is usually spit-roast meat or offal, served on a wooden platter with perhaps no more accompaniment than a scattering of herbs, a little salad or a few fava beans. It could be pig-, goat-, or horse-meat, or even a lamb's head, in which case the brains provide the greatest nourishment!

For dolci, or dessert, large ravioli-like, deep-fried, sweet sebadas may be produced. A selection of small cakes or biscuits will usually contain almonds. Ricotta may be served. Coffee may be served at the close of a meal, but, more importantly, highly alcoholic grappa or mirto may be offered. As they say in Sardinia, ‘no mirto, no party', and it would be an insult to refuse it!

A good track, flanked by cistus bushes, enters a forest and gradually climbs uphill (Walk 28)

The author enjoyed a particularly fine, typically Sardinian meal at the Sant' Efisio restaurant near Lotzoraì, www.hotel-santefisio.com, located close to several of the walking routes in this guidebook.

Language

Italian is widely spoken and understood around Sardinia, but bear in mind that the native island language, Sard, which is quite distinct from Italian, is also widely spoken. Sard comes in many dialects, which vary remarkably from place to place around the island. Common place-names on maps are in Sard (see Appendix 2 for a glossary of topographical terms) and vary widely in spelling, depending on the dialect. English is often spoken by people working in popular tourist locations and large hotels, but is rarely spoken in rural and mountainous areas of the island. A few basic Italian phrases go a long way (see Appendix 2), and in most places people are remarkably patient while dealing with visitors whose command of the language is limited.

Money Matters

The Euro is the currency of Sardinia. Large denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and the €100 notes if you can. The rest – €50, €20, €10 and €5 – are the most useful. Coins come in €2 and €1. Small denomination coins come in values of 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c. Banks and/or ATMs are often available even in remote mountain villages. Many accommodation providers will accept major credit and debit cards, but be ready to pay cash just in case they don't.

Communications

Post offices are located in towns and large villages, but may not be available in small villages. Public telephones are also available wherever there are settlements, but if not, ask at a bar. Mobile phone signals are usually good around settlements, but the nature and remoteness of the countryside usually ensures that there are plenty of dead areas where signals cannot be accessed. There are very few internet outlets, but some accommodation providers may offer a service. If access is needed, enquire before booking. (Curiously, the internet service provider Tiscali was named after a remote Sardinian archaeological site.)

Tourist Information

Tourist information for the whole of Sardinia is available at www.sardegna turismo.it. Two regional tourism bodies cover the area featured in this guidebook, Nuoro www.provincia.nuoro.it and Ogliastra www.turismo.ogliastra.it. Tourist information offices are rarely encountered while travelling around such a remote area, but can be found in towns and larger villages. Offices in the following locations may prove useful when looking for information about accommodation and local attractions.

 Nuoro, Piazza Italia, tel 0784-238878

 Oliena, Piazza Berlinguer, tel 0784-286078

 Dorgali, Via Lamarmora, tel 0784-96243

 Cala Gonone, Viale Bue Marino, tel 0784-93696

 Santa Maria Navarrese, Piazza Principessa, tel 0782-614037

 Tortolì, Via Mazzini, tel 0782-622824

 Meana Sardo, Via Montebello, tel 0784-64179

 Aritzo, Via Umberto, tel 0784-627235

 Desulo, Via Lamarmora, tel 338-2501654

 Fonni, Via Zunnui, tel 0784-57197

Walking in Sardinia

In many respects, Sardinia is ideal for walking, while in other respects it is very challenging. It all depends on your expectations and skills. Some paths are notoriously difficult to locate and follow, and even some popular paths are surprisingly rugged. On the other hand, several paths and tracks have been cleared, signposted and waymarked in recent years for the benefit of walkers. In this guidebook the box at the start of each route gives a brief description of the terrain and indicates whether any part of the route is waymarked. It is important to read the route descriptions carefully and to choose routes that suit your desires and abilities.

How to operate a rustic ‘gate' in a tall fence

The cliff coast of Ogliastra is absolutely stunning, but the only route along it, from Santa Maria to Cala Gonone, is the Selvaggio Blu www.selvaggioblu.it. This requires rock-climbing and abseiling skills, and is not included in this guidebook. Some routes offer beach access, while other routes explore further inland on the Supramonte, even to the highest mountains on the island on Gennargentu.

Where to Stay

Sardinia is a large island, and although this guidebook covers only one part of it, walkers wishing to complete several routes would be advised to choose more than one base in which to stay, in order to limit time spent travelling to and from the walks. Some small towns and villages offer access to several walks (see the ‘Location of walks' map at the front of the guide to spot concentrations of walks and handy villages).

It is likely that most walkers using this guidebook will arrive via Cagliari, Olbia or Alghero. Nuoro, however, is the largest town lying close to the highest mountains, and it could be used as a base for several days, especially by walkers relying on bus services (remember to obtain and study timetables well in advance). Other useful bases with good access to a handful of walks include Oliena and Dorgali, for the Supramonte and Ogliastra. Villages such as Baunei, Santa Maria, Lotzorai and Tortolì are popular with people exploring Ogliastra. Mountain villages offering accommodation close to walking routes include Ulassai and Laconi. The highest mountains of Gennargentu can be reached easily from Aritzo, Desulo, Tonara and Fonni.

What to Take

Those visiting Sardinia in winter and hoping to explore extensively in the mountains will occasionally need full winter kit, even to the extent of using an ice axe and crampons. For most of the year, however, decent sun protection and lightweight waterproofs to guard against occasional showers are sufficient. In many areas, and particularly in the summer, sources of water dry up, and it is necessary to carry plenty of water to guard against dehydration. Footwear is very much a personal choice, but bear in mind that while some routes follow roads and gravel tracks, others follow very rugged paths or even cross bare, broken and loose rock that may reduce walkers, quite literally, onto their hands and knees!

When to go

Sardinia's weather is typically Mediterranean, with long, hot summers and most of the rainfall concentrated in the winter months. Most visiting tourists head for the beaches, which may experience as many as 300 sunny days per year. Many walkers also head for the coast and so will enjoy the same weather.

Snow covers the gap of Arcu Gennargentu before the final climb onto Punta La Marmora (Walk 39)

The mountains are rather different and make their own weather. In winter the highest mountains are covered in snow, sometimes from November until March, to the extent that a couple of small ski pistes flourish briefly. They may also be covered in low cloud, which robs visitors of extensive views. When the coast becomes oppressively hot in summer, the mountains offer cooler conditions and shady forests. Spring offers some of the best weather and most colourful scenes.

Sardinia occasionally suffers storms and short, but intense periods of heavy rainfall, generally between October and April. Devastating floods in November 2008 caused extensive damage to roads, bridges, houses, tracks and paths. Some of the walking routes in this guidebook run along riverbeds that are normally dry, but occasionally carry torrential floodwater. After heavy rain, therefore, some routes cannot be used. Weather forecasts can be checked out on www.ilmeteo.it.

Until recently, few routes were waymarked, but some directions were literally carved in stone

Waymarking and Access

While some land is privately owned in Sardinia, many wild areas are held in common and administered by various comunes, or municipal authorities. For the most part there is no objection to walkers following paths and tracks through such places, but bear in mind that activities such as hunting (mainly September to January) take place on this land. In some areas, notably around the Golgo plateau, local shepherds would prefer visitors to hire them as guides, and to ‘encourage' this to happen they aren't keen for paths to be signposted or waymarked. In other places, notably those extensive areas managed by the Sardinian forestry agency, access is actively promoted, and routes have been identified, cleared, marked and signposted (these are mainly concentrated in the area covered by this guide). The trails range from short circular routes to long-distance routes.

New signposts give detailed directions throughout a network of waymarked walking trails

Maps of Sardinia

Government maps covering Sardinia are part of the Carta Topografica d'Italia series, published by the Instituto Geografico Militare d'Italia (IGMI). There are two scales – the 1:50,000 ‘Serie 50’ has orange covers, while the 1:25,000 ‘Serie 25’ has blue covers. Every ‘Serie 50’ map is divided into quarters to create ‘Serie 25’ coverage. Bear in mind that some coastal sheets cover very little land area. Sheet-by-sheet coverage can be checked online at www.igmi.org/ware, but the site is available only in Italian – and while it is very useful, it isn't obvious how to get the most out of it. These maps don't show all the available paths and tracks, but other useful maps highlighting at least some useful walking routes are available (see below).

IGMI maps can be ordered in advance from The Map Shop, 15 High Street, Upton-upon-Severn, WR8 0HJ, tel 01684 593146, www.themapshop.co.uk.

Vast areas are managed by Ente Foreste delle Sardegna, the Sardinian forestry agency (www.sardegnaambiente.it/foreste). They have identified, cleared, marked and signposted a series of short and long trails. They publish a series of excellent 1:25,000 scale maps, completely free of charge, covering dozens of waymarked trails. These can be studied online and printed by clicking first on the ‘Sentieri’ link, then (in spite of everything being only in Italian) clicking on each area, then clicking the ‘Scarica la carta’ links to find the maps. You won't find better trail maps anywhere on Sardinia.

There is a good 1:50,000 scale map with walking trails highlighted – Ogliastra – published by Balzano Edizioni. A similar, but simpler version is published by Edizioni Serinet. Balzano Edizioni also publishes a good 1:50,000 scale Comunità Montana map, and sheet 9 covers the mountains around Nuoro. There may be other maps that show walking routes with varying degrees of usefulness and accuracy, but the ones mentioned here are the best.

Travelling around this part of Sardinia requires the use of a suitable road map. Michelin and DeAgostini both publish maps with a good level of detail at a scale of 1:200,000.

Emergencies

Depending on the nature of an emergency, phone for the police (carabinieri) on 112, fire service (vigili del fuoco) on 115, ambulance (ambulanza) on 118, or road rescue (ICA) on 116. There is an organised mountain rescue service on Sardinia, based in Nuoro, with a branch in Urzulei (both in the area covered by this guide). If a rescue is required, call 118 and specify that mountain rescue (intervento tecnico in montagna) is needed.

Using this guide

This guidebook covers a selection of walking routes stretching from the cliff coast of Ogliastra to the highest mountains of Gennargentu. Routes include short, easy and popular walks as well as long, difficult and less frequented walks – the information box at the start of each route gives key details about the walk. Always read the route descriptions in advance and don't be tempted to tackle anything beyond your ability.

The higher parts of the track climb gently around the slopes at Su Arcu Mannu (Walk 43)

The routes in the guide are arranged by location – the guide first describes those in the north of the region, then routes further south and east, and subsequently walks in the west. Not all the walks are circular, and for linear routes information on transport back to the start is provided in the route description. Many of the walks adjoin or overlap each other, and can be joined together to create longer walks (the maps show some of the adjoining routes in order to help the reader do this).

Take note of the length of each walk, the time needed to complete it, and the nature of the terrain, then take account of the day's weather. Timings vary from person to person, so if you need more time for one route than that given in the information box, then you will probably need more time for all the routes in the guide. Just work out how much extra time you are likely to need. Conversely, if you finish early on one route, you might well finish early on all of them, and should take this into account when planning each day's walk. The timings are walking times and do not include time spent resting, stopping for lunch, or in long contemplation.

Macchia-covered hills around Giustizieri are easily explored while following clear tracks (Walk 13)

The strip maps in the guidebook concentrate on features close to the walking routes, and if you want to explore further you will need maps extending beyond the area covered. The more remote the route, the more important it is to carry extra mapping. Step-by-step route descriptions are given in the guide, and place-names shown in bold in the route description also appear on the strip maps, allowing walkers to keep track of progress. Any shops, bars or restaurants along the way are mentioned, otherwise walkers need to be completely self-sufficient. Although some routes include spring-fed water sources, these cannot be guaranteed during a long, hot and dry spell, so always carry sufficient drinking water.

Sardinia is a huge island, and the 50 walking routes in this guidebook, covering around 750km (465 miles), represent only a fraction of what is available. After completing several routes, walkers should have a good understanding of the nature of the Sardinian landscape, and should be able to approach other parts of the island with greater confidence.