Читать книгу Walking on Jersey - Paddy Dillon - Страница 9
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
‘Morceaux de France tombés à la mer et ramassés par l’Angleterre.’
‘Pieces of France fallen into the sea and picked up by England.’
Victor Hugo
Small and often very busy, but also beautiful and abounding in interest, the Channel Islands are an intriguing walking destination. The self-governing ‘Bailiwicks’ of Jersey and Guernsey owe their allegiance to the Crown and seem outwardly British, but are in fact an ancient remnant of the Duchy of Normandy, with Norman–French place-names very much in evidence. For British visitors it is like being at home and abroad at the same time. French visitors, however, find it a quintessentially British experience!
Walkers will find magnificent cliff and coastal paths, golden sandy beaches, wooded valleys and quiet country lanes. Flowers will be noticed everywhere and there is a rich birdlife. There are castles, churches, ancient monuments and fortifications to visit, as well as a host of other attractions. There are efficient and frequent bus services, and easy onward links by air and sea between the islands. This guidebook describes 24 one-day walking routes on Jersey, covering a total distance around 225km (140 miles), plus a long-distance coastal walk around the island, measuring almost 80km (50 miles). There is also a note about the Channel Island Way, a long-distance island-hopping route embracing the entire archipelago, covering 178km (110 miles).
Location
The Channel Islands lie south of Britain, but not everyone immediately appreciates how close they are to France. The islands fit snugly into a box bounded by lines of longitude 2°W and 3°W, and lines of latitude 49°N and 50°N. This puts them well and truly in the Golfe de St Malo off the Normandy coast of France, The French refer to them as Les Îles Anglo-Normandes, and that is the clue to their curious place in geography and history. They are the only remnants of the Duchy of Normandy to remain loyal to the Crown.
Jersey is the largest and southernmost of the islands, yet has an area of only 116km2 (45 square miles). No point on the island is more than 3.5km (2 miles) from the sea, yet it can take weeks to explore the place thoroughly.
Geology
In Britain virtually every major geological period is represented. Channel Islands geology is more closely related to structures in France. Rocks are either very ancient or relatively recent, with hundreds of millions of years missing from the middle of the geological timescale. Fossils are virtually absent and the amount of sedimentary rock is quite limited. Most of the area is made up of ancient sediments and igneous rocks which have been heated, warped, crushed, deformed, melted and metamorphosed. Further intrusions of igneous rocks cause further confusion for the beginner, but there is a basic succession that can be presented in a simplified form.
The most ancient bedrocks in the Channel Islands are metamorphic and metasediment rocks known as ‘Pentevrian’ – a term used in neighbouring France. Ancient gneisses, often containing xenoliths of other long-lost strata, feature in this early series. Dating rocks of this type is possible only by measuring radioisotopes in their mineral structures, which suggest dates of formation ranging from 2500 to 1000 million years ago. The oldest rocks occur in southern Guernsey, western Alderney and possibly on Sark.
The ‘Brioverian’ sedimentary series dates from 900 to 700 million years ago. It is represented by a broad band of mudstones, siltstones and conglomerates through Jersey. In Guernsey only a small area in the west contains these rocks, though in an altered state. One of the problems of dealing with these sediments is that even while they were being formed, they were being deformed by earthquakes, heat and pressure. Fossil remains are few, and in fact are represented only by a few worm burrows.
Following on from the formation of the Brioverian sediments, a series of igneous intrusions were squeezed into the rocks around 650 to 500 million years ago. Interestingly, both granites and gabbros were intruded, along with intermediate rock types. A host of minor sills, dykes and pipes were injected to further complicate matters. These tough, speckled, igneous rocks have been quarried all over the Channel Islands for local building and for export.
Events during the next 500 million years are conjectural, and based on geological happenings elsewhere in Britain and France. Rocks from this span of time are absent, though they are known from the surrounding sea bed. On dry land, sediments date only from the past couple of million years; as this was a time of ice ages, indications are that the climate varied from sub-tropical to sub-arctic. Sea levels fluctuated so that both raised beaches and sunken forests and peat bogs can be discerned. For much of the time, the Channel Islands were part of one landmass with Britain and France, but rising sea levels formed the English Channel and, one by one, each of the Channel Islands. Guernsey became an island around 14,000 years ago while Jersey became an island around 7000 years ago.
Jersey’s geology can be studied while walking around its rugged cliff coastline
Exhibits relating to the geology of Jersey can be studied at the Jersey Museum and La Hougue Bie. The British Geological Survey publishes detailed geological maps of the Channel Islands and there are a number of publications dealing with the subject.
Turbulent history
Little is known of the customs and traditions of nomadic Palaeolithic Man, but he hunted mammoth and woolly rhinoceros when Jersey was still part of the European mainland 200,000 years ago. Neolithic and Bronze Age people made many magnificent monuments which are dotted around the Channel Islands. Henges, mounds, tombs, and mysterious menhirs were raised by peoples whose origins are unclear and whose language is unknown. What is certain is that they had a reverence for their dead and were obviously living in well-ordered communities able to turn their hands to the construction of such mighty structures. The Romans knew of these islands, though whether they wholly colonised them or simply had an occupying presence and trading links is a matter of debate.
The Channel Islands Occupation Society preserves some military sites as visitor attractions
St Helier lived on a rocky islet, protecting Jersey by the power of prayer, until beheaded by pirates in the year 555. The basic parish structure of the Channel Islands, and most of the parish churches, date from around this period. No doubt the position of the Channel Islands made them a favourite spot for plundering by all and sundry on the open sea. The Norsemen were regular raiders in the 9th century, and by the 10th century they were well established in the territory of Normandy. It was from Normandy that Duke William I, ‘The Longsword’, claimed the islands as his own in the year 933, and they have been part of the Duchy of Normandy ever since.
St Ouen’s Church may stand on the site of a church founded in the 6th century (Walk 6)
Duke William II, ‘The Conqueror’, defeated Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. When King John lost Normandy to France in 1204, the Channel Islands remained loyal and were granted special privileges and a measure of self-government that continues to this day. However, the islands were repeatedly attacked, invaded and partially occupied by French forces throughout the Hundred Years War. During the most turbulent times of strife, the Pope himself intervened and decreed in 1483 that the Channel Islands should be neutral in those conflicts. The islanders were able to turn the situation to their advantage, trading with both sides! Church control passed from the French Diocese of Coutances to the English Diocese of Winchester in 1568.
During the English Civil War in the 17th century, the islands were divided against themselves, with Jersey for the Crown and Guernsey for Parliament. The French invaded the islands for the last time in 1781; stout defensive structures were raised against any further threats, particularly during the Napoleonic Wars, and in fact well into the 19th century. Queen Victoria visited the Channel Islands three times to inspect military developments.
During the First World War the Channel Islands escaped virtually unscathed, though the local militia forces were disbanded, and many of those who joined the regular army were slaughtered elsewhere in Europe. In the Second World War, after the fall of France to the German army, the Channel Islands were declared indefensible and were demilitarised. Many islanders evacuated to England, particularly from Alderney, but others stayed behind and suffered for five years under the German Occupation. Massive fortifications made the Channel Islands the most heavily defended part of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall.
Gerry built! One of several prominent concrete structures built during the German Occupation
There were only token raids and reconnaissances by British forces, and the Channel Islands were completely by-passed during the D-Day landings in nearby Normandy. VE Day in Europe was 8th May 1945, but the Channel Islands weren’t liberated until 9th May, as it was unclear whether the German garrison would surrender without a fight. The Channel Islands Occupation Society, www.ciosjersey.org.uk, publishes a number of books and journals about the war years, including an annual review. Various military structures from the Occupation have been preserved as visitor attractions.
The modern development of the Channel Islands has been in two directions. As a holiday destination it caters for a multitude of tastes, with an emphasis on sun, sea, fun, family, good food and the outdoors. In the financial services sector the low rate of taxation has brought in billions of pounds of investment and attracted a population of millionaires. The Channel Islands retain some quirky laws and customs, enjoy a low crime rate, issue their own currency and postage stamps and enjoy a unique history and heritage that is well interpreted at a number of interesting visitor sites.
The best place to start enquiring into history is the Jersey Museum, The Weighbridge, St Helier, JE2 3NG, tel. 01534 633300. This is also the place to enquire about La Société Jersiaise, tel. 01534 758314, societe-jersiaise.org/, and Jersey Heritage, www.jerseyheritage.org. The ‘Jersey Pass’ can be purchased, allowing entry to all the sites managed by Jersey Heritage. There are numerous publications available examining all aspects of Channel Islands history. Detail is often intense, and any historical building or site mentioned in this guidebook probably has one or more books dedicated entirely to it.
Another organisation involved with heritage matters is the National Trust for Jersey, The Elms, La Chève Rue, St Mary, JE3 3EN, tel. 01534 483193, www.nationaltrust.je. The Trust owns land and properties around Jersey, several of which are visited on walks throughout this guidebook. At the last count the trust owned 16 properties, cared for a number of others, and owned 1.6% of the land in Jersey, making it the biggest landowner after the States of Jersey. The National Trust for Jersey has reciprocal agreements with the National Trust of Guernsey, National Trust of England, Wales and Northern Ireland, and National Trust for Scotland, allowing members free entry to properties that normally levy a charge.
Government
The Channel Islands are a quirky little archipelago, with startling divisions among themselves. They are neither colonies nor dependencies. They are not part of the United Kingdom or the European Union. They have been described as ‘Peculiars of the Crown’ meaning that they are practically the property of the Crown, and they owe their allegiance to the Crown, and not to Parliament.
Jersey is not part of the United Kingdom, but owes its allegiance to the British Crown
There are actually two self-governing Bailiwicks whose law-making processes are quite separate from those of the United Kingdom’s Parliament. Furthermore, the Bailiwick of Jersey’s affairs are quite separate from the Bailiwick of Guernsey. A thorough investigation of Channel Islands government is an absorbing study, which anyone with political inclinations might like to investigate while walking around the islands. Check the States of Jersey government website for further information, www.gov.je, as well as the States Assembly website, www.statesassembly.gov.je, and the Jersey Legal Information Board, www.jerseylaw.je. Legal documents are traditionally prepared in ‘Jersey Legal French’, but since the year 2000 there has been a drive to make these more accessible to the public by presenting them in English.
Wildlife
Plants
The Channel Islands are noted for their flowers, and it is possible to find wild flowers in bloom at any time of the year. The southerly, maritime disposition of the islands and their range of habitats, from fertile soil to barren rocks, ensure that a wide variety of species can thrive. Even attempting to shortlist them is a pointless exercise. The sand dunes of Les Quennevais support around 400 species, and even an old cemetery in the heart of St Helier is graced with 100 species. Bear in mind that the sea is also a bountiful source of marine plants. Add to this the plants that are cultivated in greenhouses and gardens: there are 60 varieties of roses in the Howard Davies Park, and orchids from around the world bloom at the Eric Young Orchid Centre. The study of Jersey’s floral tributes becomes a vast undertaking!
Spring and early summer are the best times to visit Jersey to see wild flowers at their most colourful
Even walkers who have no great interest in flowers cannot fail to be amazed at the sight of narcissi and bluebells growing on the northern cliffs of Jersey. Add abundant swathes of sea campion, red campion, blazes of gorse and broom, nodding ox-eye daisies, and the result is a riot of colour. The sight of fleshy-leaved mesembryanthemum colonising entire cliffs is impressive and unusual. A comprehensive field guide to wild flowers is an essential companion on any walk, but make sure that it encompasses not only a good range of British plants, but also plants from the Mediterranean, which are at their northernmost limits around Jersey. La Société Jersiaise, www.societe-jersiaise.org, gathers plenty of information about Jersey’s botany.
Animals
Mammoth, woolly rhinoceros and deer are known to have flourished in the past on the Channel Islands, but today Jersey is devoid of large wild mammals. Rabbits do well almost everywhere, but little else is likely to be seen except for evidence of moles and small rodents. Red squirrels were introduced to Jersey by local naturalists in 1885. The Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust features a splendid range of exotic species, but look to the sea for other species, such as dolphins. Local differences occur between the islands, such as the fact that toads are found on Jersey, but not Guernsey, though green lizards live on both islands. Insect life is abundant and varied, with a range of colourful butterflies.
The birdlife is amazingly rich, with a range of residents and a host of migratory species. While the landmass is rather small to support many raptors, there are owls, kestrels and sparrowhawks. The coastal margins abound in interest, attracting a range of waders which probe the beaches and rock pools for food. The cliffs and pebbly beaches provide safe nesting places for a variety of gulls and terns, and puffins can be seen on some of the smaller islands and stacks. There are areas of heathland where the rare Dartford warbler might be seen or heard, and there are a few areas of dense woodland, marsh and grassland sites which attract particular species. The range of bird habitats is under pressure from human development and recreation on such tiny islands but, even so, there is plenty to see.
A gull perches nonchalantly on a German gun at the Batterie Möltke at Les Landes
Listing a couple of hundred species of birds is a pointless exercise, and so much depends on the time of year and prevailing conditions. A good field guide to birds is useful, and there are titles specific to the Channel Islands. The Jersey Museum has exhibits relating to natural history, and visitor centres such as the Kempt Tower offer specific information about the plants and animals. La Société Jersiaise, www.societe-jersiaise.org, produces the annual Jersey Bird Report, or see www.jerseybirds.co.uk for information.
Protected areas
There is no national park on Jersey, though for many years the species-rich sand dunes of Les Blanches Banques near Les Quennevais have been regarded as a ‘special’ area, even referred to as a ‘trainee national park’. There are several small nature reserves on Jersey, from marshland to woodland. The National Trust for Jersey has already been mentioned, owning 1.6% of the land area of Jersey, which they are dedicated to preserving. There are also large and very important marine reserves, some of which are particularly difficult to access. They include the south-east coast and the rocky reefs of Les Ecrehous, Les Minquiers, Les Pierres de Lecq and Les Dirouilles.
Getting to Jersey
A map of transport routes makes Jersey look like the centre of the universe, with ferries and flights converging on the island from all points of the compass. Bear in mind that there are seasonal variations, with more services available in the summer months than in the winter.
Who can go?
People who hold British or European Union passports or identity cards do not need visas to visit Jersey. All air travellers must produce some form of photo-ID or they may be denied boarding. People who have obtained a visa to visit Britain can also visit Jersey during the period for which their visa is valid. Dogs and other pets can be brought from Britain to Jersey, subject to any conditions that might be imposed by ferry or flight operators. Usual practice applies to walking dogs in the countryside; keep them under control, especially near livestock. Dogs may be barred from beaches during the summer months and anti-fouling laws are in place everywhere.
Flights
Flights to Jersey operate from about two dozen British airports, and from a handful of European countries, such as Ireland, France, Germany, Netherlands and Switzerland. Scehduled and charter flights are available. Scheduled flights are mostly operated by Flybe, ww.flybe.com, and Blue Islands, www.blueislands.com, while Blue Islands and Aurigny, www.aurigny.com, operate most inter-island flights. Summer charter flights are offered by Jersey Travel, www.jerseytravel.com, and other companies. This is not an exhaustive list and choices are quite bewildering, so it takes time to sift and sort between various operators, schedules and prices, but with patience some extraordinarily good deals can be sourced.
The National Trust for Jersey is a major landowner, maintaining some interesting short walks
Ferries
Ferries serve Jersey from Britain and France. Ferries from Britain are operated by Condor, www.condorferries.co.uk, sailing from Weymouth, Poole and Portsmouth. Passengers can choose between fast and slow ships, either travelling directly to Jersey or via a short break at Guernsey. Condor also serves Jersey from St Malo in France. Other ferry services from France are operated by Manche Îles Express, www.manche-iles-express.com, sailing from Granville and Barnville-Carteret to Jersey, also offering links with Guernsey, Alderney and Sark.
Tour operators
Package holidays to the Channel Islands can be arranged for any period from a weekend upwards, freeing you from the hassle of trying to co-ordinate ferries, flights, accommodation and meals. Prices are quite competitive and there are seasonal variations, so it pays to shop around for the best deals.
When to go
Jersey is suitable as a year-round destination and generally enjoys slightly milder weather than the south of England, but the weather is still highly variable and impossible to forecast accurately. Winters are mild, but there may be frosts and, very occasionally, snow. Very bad weather at any time of year can upset ferry schedules, while fog affects flights. The peak summer period can be very hot and busy, which may not suit those looking for peace and quiet. The shoulder seasons, spring and autumn, are generally ideal for walking, with bright, clear days and temperatures that are neither too high nor too low. In fact, these are the times of year that the Jersey Walking Weeks are arranged, featuring plenty of guided walks led by local experts.
Visiting walkers can join local walkers during the spring and autumn Walking Weeks
Accommodation
Jersey offers every type of accommodation to suit every pocket, but over the past few years prices have risen as hotels have moved up-market. Choose an accommodation base carefully, thinking primarily about how you intend to organise your walks. If you are hiring a car, then any base anywhere on the island will be fine. If you intend using the bus services to travel to and from walks, then the best base would be somewhere central in St Helier, handy for the bus station. An annual accommodation guide is produced, which can be obtained by post from Jersey Tourism, or browsed online at www.jersey.com.
Visitors who want to hire unusual historic properties should look at some of the holiday lets available through Jersey Heritage and the National Trust for Jersey. A number of interesting old military properties have been converted into self-catering accommodation for families and groups; however, they are not advertised widely and do not feature in the usual holiday brochures.
Health and safety
There are no nasty diseases on Jersey, or at least, nothing you couldn’t contract at home. Domestic water supplies are fed from either reservoirs or underground sources, sometimes augmented by a desalination plant. Treated water is perfectly drinkable, but some people don’t like the taste and prefer to buy bottled water, which is quite expensive. There are no snakes and no stinging insects worse than wasps and bees.
In case of medical emergency, dial 999 (or the European emergency number 112) for an ambulance. In case of a non-emergency, there are chemists, doctors, dentists and a hospital. A reciprocal health agreement is in place between Jersey and the UK, which covers serious accidents, injuries or dramatic deterioration in health. However, it does not cover medical repatriation, which can be expensive, so it is wise to have appropriate health insurance for this. The European Health Insurance Card is not valid in Jersey.
Food and drink
Jersey has long prided itself on being intensively agricultural, though this is waning and farmers face an uncertain future. In the past, the island was famous for its cider-apple orchards, but these were largely cleared as farmers began to experiment with potato-growing. The name ‘Jersey’ immediately conjures images of delicious ‘Jersey Royal’ potatoes, which were originally known as ‘Jersey Royal Fluke’. This variety was developed from two potatoes that were given to Hugh de la Haye in the early 1800s. The potato even has its own website, www.jerseyroyals.co.uk.
The name ‘Jersey’ also conjures images of contented brown cows giving rich, creamy milk for butter and ice-cream. Jersey cows have a long pedigree and have always been immensely important on the island. Laws were passed in the 18th and 19th centuries to restrict the importation of cattle, so that the unique qualities of Jersey cows were protected. Jersey herds are admired and renowned world-wide, and they too have their own website, www.jerseydairy.je.
Jersey Royals, best eaten freshly-picked while on Jersey, with a knob of Jersey butter
Some Jersey foodstuffs are enjoying a revival, most notably ‘Black Butter’, which is neither black nor butter, but a concoction of cider-apples, liquorice and spices, with an intriguing flavour that goes well with sweet or savoury foodstuffs. A German tourist observed, ‘It tastes like Christmas!’ Black Butter is produced by La Mare Wine Estate along with wines, spirits and a range of quality mustards, preserves, biscuits and chocolates, www.lamarewineestate.com.
Naturally, Jersey offers good seafood, but one of the greatest delicacies is unlikely to be savoured by visitors. The ‘ormer’, or abalone, is a marine mollusc that can only be gathered at certain times and there are plenty of restrictions in place to conserve the species. As a result it tends to be eaten primarily by Jersey folk, with nothing left over for commercial restaurants.
Of course, Jersey also imports plenty of food and drink, both British and international goods, from simple, low-priced products to expensive quality items. On the whole, expect things to cost a little more than in Britain, and bear in mind that most supermarkets and shops are in St Helier, and not every village has a shop. On the other hand, pubs, restaurants, cafés and snack kiosks are regularly encountered while walking round Jersey, and places offering refreshments are mentioned in the route descriptions. Food offered ranges from basic snacks to haute cuisine, and as it is easy to get from place to place for food and drink, you need only be guided by your palate and spending limits.
Granite cliffs and wooded slopes below La Grosse Tête are best seen from the sea (Walk 4)
Parlez-vous Franglais?
For centuries the language commonly spoken around the Channel Islands was a Norman-French ‘patois’ which had distinct forms from island to island. The Jersey form is known as Jèrriais, and while it is rarely heard, it is still spoken and many people are keen to preserve it. Sometimes it is referred to as ‘Jersey French’, but a French person would struggle to understand it. It also goes by the name of ‘Jersey Norman French’ and ‘Jersey Norman’. It should not be confused with ‘Jersey Legal French’, which is mostly modern French, with a few archaic Jersey words, used for drafting legal documents.
Visiting walkers may hear nothing of the language, but will be very aware of the roots of the language preserved in place-names all over the island. Some modern signs are bilingual, in English and Jèrriais. The latest banknotes produced by the States of Jersey are trilingual – English, Jèrriais and French – so that ‘one pound’ is also rendered as un louis and une livre. Visitors with a good knowledge of French will probably pronounce the place-names with a French accent, but in fact the ‘correct’ pronunciation would be different. In all other respects, English is spoken, written and understood everywhere, but there are also sizeable Portuguese (mostly Madeiran) and Polish communities on the island, as well as resident and visiting nationals from many other countries. It is increasingly common to hear French, German, Dutch and Japanese spoken on the streets. If assistance is needed with the pronunciation of a place-name, the best person to ask is a Jersey person!
Money
The States of Jersey issue their own banknotes and coins, which are inextricably linked to Sterling and come in exactly the same denominations. However, Jersey one and two pound coins are rare, while Jersey one pound notes are common. Bank of England Sterling notes and coins can be spent in Jersey, and currency issued by the States of Guernsey is also accepted. In theory, Sterling banknotes from Scotland and Northern Ireland are accepted, but this depends on whether the person to whom you are offering them is familiar with them. Some businesses will accept Euros, but the rate of exchange may be poor. Change given at the close of a transaction may be a mixture of Jersey and British currency. Remember that Jersey currency is not legal tender in Britain, though British banks will change notes at face value. It is common for visitors approaching the end of a holiday in Jersey to request British currency only in their change. Your last few Jersey coins can be dropped in a charity box on departure, or saved as mementos of your visit.
Jersey specialises in financial services and banks from all over the world are represented on the streets of St Helier. ATMs are common and a wide variety of credit and debit cards are accepted by businesses. There is no VAT on purchases and the island enjoys a low rate of tax. There is an advantage in purchasing some high-value items on the island, but the cost of transporting goods to Jersey can make some of the benefits marginal.
Communications
If taking a mobile phone to Jersey, check in advance about roaming charges, or you might find yourself paying a high price for calls. The local providers are JT (formerly Jersey Telecom), www.jtglobal.com, and Sure, www.sure.com. There is generally good mobile coverage around the island. Telephone kiosks are located in many urban and rural locations, where emergency calls (999 or 112) are free. There is free Wi-Fi at Jersey Airport, Liberation Station and Jersey Library, while many accommodation providers also offer free Wi-Fi to their guests.
Royal Mail postage stamps from Britain are not valid in Jersey. Any attempt to use them will result in delayed delivery and an excess charge for the recipient. Jersey Post stamps must be used, and if you are posting to Britain, Europe, or any other destination, make this clear when you buy stamps as there are different rates. There are half-a-dozen post offices around St Helier and most villages on the island have a post office, as well as the airport. Walkers with an interest in philately can make arrangements to collect Jersey stamps and first-day covers on a regular basis. Enquire at the Philatelic Bureau for details, www.jerseypost.com.
Jersey’s north coast features a fine footpath, seen here above Bouley Bay (Walk 13)
